Kohiki slip slab bowl
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- Опубліковано 11 жов 2024
- This cool texture technique can add a nature-inspired surface to your slabs. This video breaks it down step by step and shows an example of how you might use a kohiki textured slab to form a bowl. You’ll need a contrasting color of slip, sodium silicate solution, and a propane torch.
I really love the organic look you achieved here. Thanks so much for your instruction.
This video is so helpful, simple and clear! Thanks a million, You are an amazing instructor
Thanks so much. I appreciate the feedback. If you're ever in Athens, GA come check out our studio.
Thank you! The passion is beautiful. And you are a very good teacher!😊
Aw, thanks. Glad I could help you.
This is a great technique. I saw someone who applied the slip in spirals so the pattern looked really cool.thanks much.
awesome video, thank you!
This was great - thanks!
I learned to throw/stretch slabs half a century ago (!) I have always loved the naturalness of the rounded edge.
I’m imagining a pair of these bowls, or a whole set, with the Kohiki texture alternating from inside to outside. Then my brain takes off with cutting pieces of it, making checkerboards…!
Definitely! Take the idea and run with it. That's what is so cool about everyone posting their techniques in these public forums. Hope it leads to exponential creative growth.
So cool. One of the best of this kind of technique. Taking care of the rim is really impressive.
Thanks so much...that's definitely my favorite part of it too. Feels like magic.
Excellent video. Thank you for the clear instructions. I’m excited to try this technique x
Thank you !! You explain very well, calm and clear... It's a nice nice work !!
Thank you for showing this technique, it is very beautiful. 🤩😃👍
Thanks Brenda, I hope you get good results when you try it.
this looks fun; question: what would happen if you used only the slip and not the s. silicate?
驚きました。アイオワに居られるとは！私はノースキャロライナ州で趣味で陶芸をしております。毎回楽しく拝見しておりました。これからも楽しみにしております。
Excellent directions. Thank you.
Wonderful job of doing this technique! Love it!!! Absolutely gorgeous bowl ❤. Your video is by far my favorite of this info.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I am going to try this with coloured slip.
It works well with colored slip and you can even do it with no slip at all and stain the fissures with an oxide wash after the bisque firing.
Our ceramic class does not allow the use of torches. Can a very hot dryer be used.
Yes, a heat gun or hot hair dryer would work. I *might* just be a bit of a pyro! Just try to keep the bulk of the hot air away from the edge. The nice thing about the torch is that it is more focused, but a dryer will work. Give it a go and let me know how it works for you. Good luck!
It might be a good idea to cut a circle like a quarter inch thick red clay for the foot.Just so it doesn't scratch the surface
That's a great idea. It's also possible to polish the textured surface with wet/dry sandpaper to make it safe for the table surface. Thanks for your comment!
Looks like the surface of a Pan Dulce bun 🙂
Very informative
I realllly want to see the finished piece!!!!!
Still haven't done the final firing...sorry!
@@gooddirtclasses8933 how about now
@@Yakkhyl ua-cam.com/video/xh82Ju9rG7M/v-deo.html
What percentage sodium silicate to H2O?
@@leighrobison9388 I cut it about 50/50 from the concentration it comes in from the supplier. The stronger the solution, the deeper the cracks seem to penetrate. If you get it too weak, you won't get enough fissuring to really show up. Be careful about getting the solution into your slop bucket as it can contaminate all your reclaim clay and make it behave strangely. Powerful stuff!
Eine sehr interessante Herangehensweise!😍tolle Oberfläche…ist der Schlicker eingefärbt, oder wurde der aus einem andersfarbigen Ton mit gleichen Eigenschaften gewonnen? Kreativen Gruß!
I loved this. Thank you sooooo much!
I'm glad you enjoyed the video. It's one of those techniques that feels a little like magic.
This is great! Thank you!
So glad you enjoyed it. Hope it works well for you.
Hello, I loved the video! I had a doubt, if you just pass the silicate and wait for it to dry the texture will arise, or necessarily, do you need to heat it with the torch?
I think you want to heat it with the torch so the surface becomes stiff but the underlying clay is still soft and stretchy. You could probably substitute a hairdryer if you're more comfortable with that. Of course, it couldn't hurt to experiment...it's very possible that I am just an impatient potter who likes to play with fire.
Muy bello ,muchas grácias.
Cool!
Would you mention how you made the slip - from pugged clay or is it a casting slip? Is it the same cone as the red clay. Thank you.
We use a white slip that we mix up from dry ingredients and sieve just as we would a glaze. It's 25% kaolin, 25% clay, and the rest non-plastic ingredients...flint, neph sy, zircopax. Also contains borax. It will fire to cone 10 but works great on earthenware too.
@@gooddirtclasses8933 can you please give the ratio in detail..?
Not sure why you are using the sodium silicate. The slip will Crack the same without it and you have not wasted scraps At least it does for me. Is there some other benefit I, not aware of? Will use it in the future if there is benefit.
The surface of the slip and even just bare clay will crack much more dramatically and predictably with the sodium silicate. Concentration will impact the depth of the cracks. I cut it one to one with water as it comes from my supplier. I generally don't generate a lot of scraps with this technique or similar pieces created on the wheel, so not a big issue for me. I agree though that if you get a great result without the need for an additional ingredient...go for it!
This is very cool!! I can’t believe I’ve never seen how to do this! May I ask, is your white slip just white clay or is the clay actually colored white. Thank you so much for this video.
I used a white slip over red clay.
I described the slip more fully in a previous comment.
With what do you cut the sodium silicate? water?
Yes, i just use regular tap water. You can experiment with how much to cut it. Not enough and the fissures penetrate really deep and threaten the inegrity of the form. Too little and the crackles are very superficial and a little ho-hum. Start by cutting it more like two parts sodium silicate to one part water and keep adding water a little at a time until you're happy. Do this in a separate container rather than cutting your whole stock so you're not risking too much (not that the sodium silicate is super expensive, but it's always good not to be wasteful). Take care not to get the sodium silicate into your scrap bucket. I just throw away any scraps that have come in contact with it to be on the safe side and not contaminate my reclaim clay.
@@gooddirtclasses8933 Thanks for a detailed response. You are great teacher
Why don't you make a video showing how to do this technique with a hand-built cylinder. Thanks
Thanks for the suggestion...I don't do a ton of hand building, but I'll put that project on my to-do list.
What is the slip formula?
I see where you have the slip recipe but can we just use our slip from the clay we use without adding anything to it?
You could definitely experiment with just using your usual white clay body. A good way to make a slip from it is to save some trimmings and let them dry completely. Then cover with water overnight and pour off excess the next morning. Blend up what's left and you should have a nice smooth slip. If it cracks up too much, you could try making a deflocculated slip by adding sodium silicate to your slip prepared as above drop by drop until it thins in consistency. This way the water content can be lower in a slip that can still be brushed on. Hope this makes sense...
@@gooddirtclasses8933 it does. Thank you very much
muito criativo,parabens
Gracias, muy interesante el video. No hablo inglés entonces entiendo que primero puso un engobe y segundo???
De nada! Primero un engobe blanco y segundo una solución de silicato de sodio (approximamente medio agua y medio silicato de sodio). Es importante por quemar el superficie para secarlo sin secando todo el barro. Lo siento que no puedo hablar mejor en Espanol.
Why not make the bowl so the pattern is facing up so you can enjoy it?
You could definitely do that if you were planning to glaze over the texture to render it a bit smoother and more functional. I chose to put it on the outside so I could leave it unglazed.
Can we see it finished?
I took some snapshots of the final result. It was fired to cone 10 in reduction with an interior glaze high in both sodium and magnesium. It tends to form awesome little crystals.
ua-cam.com/video/xh82Ju9rG7M/v-deo.html
@VB tu commente trop
How you make white-slip
We mix up dry ingredients (kaolin, ball clay, flint, nepheline syenite, borax and zircopax) by weight and then add water and sieve through 60 and 80 mesh screens. We usually make it up to a heavy cream consistency for brushing, but we thin it out considerably for dipping.
@@gooddirtclasses8933 do you just thin it with water?
yes..and run it through the sieve to make sure there are no lumps.
That's not kohiki
how so?
@@gooddirtclasses8933 It seems that you are calling the sodium silicate technique Kohiki. Here are a couple of videos about kohiki:
ua-cam.com/video/lHEf7Vh3UIA/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/BNTMnnS-HrM/v-deo.html
@@1marcelo Cool, thanks very much.
Not showing fired work is caused by laziness or embarrassment. :-)
Or maybe firing cycle, but here's the link to the finished product....ua-cam.com/video/xh82Ju9rG7M/v-deo.html
@@gooddirtclasses8933 Nice outcome. Thank you! Don't depend on viewers going digging through your uploads trying to find that though, just from watching one video. Disappointment at the end of the first isn't likely to get you a viewer for a second.
@StickerMT Slagging this fellow is caused by being self righteous prig.
I don’t know him but appreciate how he soldiered on with those few missteps.
I’m certain the point is to learn something, not be a judgmental jerk for everyone to see.
Parle trop