If you click "SHOW MORE" in the description above your be able to see Links to the Tools 🔧🔨🔧 I use. Also Clickable Chapters📋 📙 throughout the video and other Links 🎬 that may be of interest. I've had a few viewers request where they can buy the tools they see in some of my videos but it's not very clear that the "SHOW MORE" tab has a lot of information in that may be of interest. Admittedly the amazon links are associated with me and I would earn a small commission which helps towards keeping the channel funded.
Thank you for uploading this video. Great camera work with colored freeze frame of parts an excellent feature, great narration, and despite many brake jobs under my belt, I had never heard of the risk to ABS when bleeding. As someone else mentioned, the order is indeed based on where your MC is. So in the UK, yes, you'd start LR (farthest from MC, then RR, then LF, then RF. I did note that you hung your caliper by the hose, which is definitely something to avoid. Support it with either a bungee cord or zip tie to the coil spring so the hose is always slack. Letting it hang can stress the hose and cause a leak down the line. Thanks again.
Thank you for the compliment John. I was going to answer you back that I would never leave a calliper hanging but on checking the video........I did grrrr. In my defence I'm going the say the hand brake cable was holding it lol. I always hang the fronts but just shows we can get complacent so easily. Like you say you shouldn't allow to hang from the pipe.
I did the very same repair about a year ago and no joy alas. At least you know a bit more about the make up of the ABS unit. I also have a very rare model unit and can’t find a second hand replacement anywhere. You have inspired me to do some further investigation around the pressure sensor circuitry though. Great vid. 👍
Thank you Paul for the comment. You can get them repaired for around £150 I think. I think my silver mini is going past cost effective so will just use for video making. Engine mounts also failed and the 2 wheel sensors refuse to come out. Rusted solid.
I’ve never needed to take the calliper off to successfully get the old fluid out. Strangely I’ve found that even without bleeding the brakes you can get a lot of air out just by pressurising the fluid with this bottle device. You actually see the air bubbles coming up the pipe back towards the container when using it. I’ve found that doing this after bleeding the callipers made the pedal go solid, especially after having bled them where the pedal was still spongy.
with the advent of ABS, I no longer follow the old bleed pattern because the rear brake lines are the same length and are not connected. the fronts are again, independent and not connected so what order is no longer important. crimping the brake lines is no longer recommended because of problems with the interior brake line wall delaminating from the outside wall. I don't compress the wheel cylinders because I use a vacuum on each line rather than pressure from the main reservoir. Never had any problems with ABS units using a vacuum. I would have pulled the abs unit and had it rebuilt before bleeding. My bosch unit differs in the plug spade location but looks exactly the same. Great video with lots of detailed information.
Thank you for the compliment. I'm always conscious when clamping the pipes as like you say I read it can sometimes be enough to cause an issue within the pipe that can lead to locked brakes. As I'm not a qualified mechanic I have to stick to the the exact instructions in the manuals so I'm not giving out misleading information. This is where a qualified mechanic with experience can advise a lot better than I.
@Roy Saxton The bosch unit is very different internally to the ATE unit... and externally. You should still follow the furthest from the MC first rule as physically most systems with an offset MC ate still best bled longest to shortest pipe run. You won't find anyone who will 'rebuild' the hydraulic side of the ABS system but you will find companies who will rework and replace pcb and components as required. If you're crimping the brake lines you're doing it wrong. You gently CLAMP them, padded jaws (closed cell foam works well) set to barely clamp the lines is the way to go I needed.
There is talk it's normally the pressure sensor that fails which is connected by micro fine hair like wires. I think you have to code if you get the same module but not the exact one that was fitted to your series of car. They do contain an EEPROM for vehicle data that needs to be correct to the model of car.
@@iebah1 Thankfully mine is available on ebay for about £150 second hand but the thing is you don't know how long it will last as they all suffer the same issues I believe. I might have another look at once I've done my engine removal series. Just searched for yours and I couldn't find it either. Is yours an early model? mine car is Dec 2001 I think.
@@CoatsandGaiters am winding you up mate just banter am in the army Scotland 🏴 good detailed video . My q7 abs pump is buggered so I need to do this for mine got the rosstech so will use the program to bleed the brakes got the Sealey pressure bleeder on order to
@@garyalcorn3831 Thank you for that Gary. I do admit my on camera persona is probably a bit bland though haha The ABD pumps can be a problem as the wires can break on the sensor inside. They can be sent off for repair or I ended up buying a second hand one off ebay to pass an MOT.
@@CoatsandGaiters I was planning sending away for complete strip down and rebuild compared to buying second hand as not sure how to recode it . Was it your pump in the end that was shot after doing all this brake bleeding ? Did you have to further bleed it after replacing the pump aswell?
@@garyalcorn3831 I re soldered my pump by opening it up as sometimes that works but their is a sensor inside with wires as thin as human hair which can break after a while. As long as the new pump has the exact number on it would work but like you say you may have to recode so in a way it's better to send it off and get a guarantee and you know it's the right one anyway. The problem I had after removing the pump was purging the air out of the unit itself. This can require a diagnostic tool to activate the motor and the valves. Some have said to rag it around a car park braking hard to activate the ABS and hopefully clear the air out that way. My car passed an MOT but the pedal wasn't as hard as it was before removing the whole unit.
Thank you for the upload! It has given me more reassurance about the process! When you purchased the Sealey bleeding tool, did you have to order the cap separately? Just wondered if it was a different size for the R50s as its linked separately in the description? Thanks
Thank you for the comment. If I can recall it was only the universal cap with chains that might have been an optional extra. It comes with a 42mm cap which apparently fits most European cars.
V.comprehensive video. But how do you clean the Sealey brake pressure bleeder out afterwards? I imagine a thin film of brake fluid will be left on the inside walls, which will absorb moisture & contaminate new brake fluid at the next change.
@@One_over_the_eight - Haha, sounds that way. But absorbing a mere 2-4% makes a brake fluid change necessary. Whereas trying to use a lot of water to wash away a small amount of brake fluid is an altogether different proposition.
@@withgrowinginsanity198 I'm not sure now as I sold that Renault. Sorry. They seem pretty standard. Was access really tight. There was one car I couldn't get access to the top with the pipe on.
That's how I have always known it, so unsure why the manual said it slightly differently unless they didn't account for right hand drive when writing the manual.
@@koperety that's still usually the furthest wheel from the master cylinder as the MC is usually virtually still on top of the ABS valve block (as you say, manifold).
Sadly not. I went straight onto removing the engine series. If I get a diagnostic reader at some point I will take another look at it. I’m assuming it’s the velocity sensor but don’t actually know.
@@CoatsandGaiters Might be worth getting a dcan cable and a copy of ista. In fact I can sort you out with a working version of ista. It's a revelation!
@@skylined5534 Thank you so much for the offer but the Mini's have gone now and I now have Renault Lagunas and that Peugeot 207 still. I managed to get hold of a second hand Autel 808 after the laptop one gave up on me.
@@CoatsandGaiters Ahh no worries! Good luck with the Rens, I've had several over the years now and while they're not trouble free sometimes they're nowhere near as unreliable as some would have you believe! Thanks for all the videos you've made regarding the Minis, they've helped me a lot to resolve several issues on my missus's R50 Cooper. Narrowed the ABS light trio (quartet if you count the traction light!) Down to I think two duff abs magnetic rings on the left! Fingers crossed replacing the stuffed ones will resolve it! Edit: just had a look at those Autel 808s... they look awesome! Supposed to be really good bits of kit from what I've read.
@@skylined5534 My wife has always had Renault Lagunas and took them to 150k miles before changing them. I used to joke about them but they never went wrong. She has just upgraded again to her 6th Laguna and I'm now driving her old one to do some HGV work to supplement UA-cam. It has 174,000 miles on. Nothing has ever gone with with it apart from usual suspension and brake parts. Original turbo, clutch, exhaust etc. M9R diesel engine's seems to be really good. We still have a Mini in the family so may still do the occasional video but the problem is I need the cars for a few days to make a video and I don't have a courtesy car to give people haha
I couldn't say as I think it opens the valves and operates the pump in a sequence. I've read some suggest taking the car to a car park and driving it fast then slam on the brakes to operate the ABS normally which might purge any air out.
@@CoatsandGaiters Probably ,it's a shame it didn't work after the Hrs of work put in ,either the board has another fault or there is a wiring fault to one of the sensors
@@LOTPOR0402 I know, I read that their is a deceleration sensor inside with very fine hair like wires to it and they fail. I've assumed it might be that. I keep looking on eBay for my exact model number as I would buy one and then take this one completely apart for UA-cam.
I did have some fun and games with the ABS. Trying to remove a broken wheel hub sensor I used a drill and cut the magnetic inductor ring so had to buy a new bearing !!!! ahhhhh
@@CoatsandGaiters I had it happen to me on the front so I had to drill it out or replace the entire carrier but thankfully I got lucky.. only after replacing 4x speed sensors and all 4x hubs did I get the trifecta to turn off.. check my channel. I git 2x minis , ones 300+whp and other is coming along
If you click "SHOW MORE" in the description above your be able to see Links to the Tools 🔧🔨🔧 I use. Also Clickable Chapters📋 📙 throughout the video and other Links 🎬 that may be of interest. I've had a few viewers request where they can buy the tools they see in some of my videos but it's not very clear that the "SHOW MORE" tab has a lot of information in that may be of interest. Admittedly the amazon links are associated with me and I would earn a small commission which helps towards keeping the channel funded.
Thank you for uploading this video. Great camera work with colored freeze frame of parts an excellent feature, great narration, and despite many brake jobs under my belt, I had never heard of the risk to ABS when bleeding.
As someone else mentioned, the order is indeed based on where your MC is. So in the UK, yes, you'd start LR (farthest from MC, then RR, then LF, then RF. I did note that you hung your caliper by the hose, which is definitely something to avoid. Support it with either a bungee cord or zip tie to the coil spring so the hose is always slack. Letting it hang can stress the hose and cause a leak down the line. Thanks again.
Thank you for the compliment John. I was going to answer you back that I would never leave a calliper hanging but on checking the video........I did grrrr. In my defence I'm going the say the hand brake cable was holding it lol. I always hang the fronts but just shows we can get complacent so easily. Like you say you shouldn't allow to hang from the pipe.
@@CoatsandGaiters HA! Well there you go then, we're both right! Have a good one.
I did the very same repair about a year ago and no joy alas. At least you know a bit more about the make up of the ABS unit. I also have a very rare model unit and can’t find a second hand replacement anywhere. You have inspired me to do some further investigation around the pressure sensor circuitry though. Great vid. 👍
Thank you Paul for the comment. You can get them repaired for around £150 I think. I think my silver mini is going past cost effective so will just use for video making. Engine mounts also failed and the 2 wheel sensors refuse to come out. Rusted solid.
I’ve never needed to take the calliper off to successfully get the old fluid out. Strangely I’ve found that even without bleeding the brakes you can get a lot of air out just by pressurising the fluid with this bottle device. You actually see the air bubbles coming up the pipe back towards the container when using it. I’ve found that doing this after bleeding the callipers made the pedal go solid, especially after having bled them where the pedal was still spongy.
Thank you for the video. I have yet to service my R53s rear brakes and was unaware of the screw retraction.
Hopefully the video gives you some insight so you have the upper hand.
Great video with properly lighted , thank you very much
Thank you for the compliment
with the advent of ABS, I no longer follow the old bleed pattern because the rear brake lines are the same length and are not connected. the fronts are again, independent and not connected so what order is no longer important. crimping the brake lines is no longer recommended because of problems with the interior brake line wall delaminating from the outside wall. I don't compress the wheel cylinders because I use a vacuum on each line rather than pressure from the main reservoir. Never had any problems with ABS units using a vacuum. I would have pulled the abs unit and had it rebuilt before bleeding. My bosch unit differs in the plug spade location but looks exactly the same. Great video with lots of detailed information.
Thank you for the compliment. I'm always conscious when clamping the pipes as like you say I read it can sometimes be enough to cause an issue within the pipe that can lead to locked brakes. As I'm not a qualified mechanic I have to stick to the the exact instructions in the manuals so I'm not giving out misleading information. This is where a qualified mechanic with experience can advise a lot better than I.
@Roy Saxton
The bosch unit is very different internally to the ATE unit... and externally.
You should still follow the furthest from the MC first rule as physically most systems with an offset MC ate still best bled longest to shortest pipe run.
You won't find anyone who will 'rebuild' the hydraulic side of the ABS system but you will find companies who will rework and replace pcb and components as required.
If you're crimping the brake lines you're doing it wrong. You gently CLAMP them, padded jaws (closed cell foam works well) set to barely clamp the lines is the way to go I needed.
I was expecting that ABS module won't work. I had the same issue and ended up changing it with second hand one and worked. No need for coding.
There is talk it's normally the pressure sensor that fails which is connected by micro fine hair like wires. I think you have to code if you get the same module but not the exact one that was fitted to your series of car. They do contain an EEPROM for vehicle data that needs to be correct to the model of car.
Ddi you manage to find the exact part number? Mine is very rare, 6760085/6760086 and I can't find it anywhere.
@@iebah1 Thankfully mine is available on ebay for about £150 second hand but the thing is you don't know how long it will last as they all suffer the same issues I believe. I might have another look at once I've done my engine removal series. Just searched for yours and I couldn't find it either. Is yours an early model? mine car is Dec 2001 I think.
@@CoatsandGaiters Mine is Jan 2002.
@@iebah1 so later than mine
Great video, Am going a stap further and changing all 4 Calipers and Flexi pipe. After snapping one bleed, screw.
Thank you. Bleed screws are very delicate. I tend to heat and cool them with loads of Plus Gas to work them out.
Just grabbed my buddies schwaben bleeder tool so hopefully it gets the dang air out my lines after doing am r56 brake swap
Was that an ABS unit swop?
top video mate....thanks for your dedication to the MINI....I have an R53 and love it......
Thank you and hope it helps you out.
I play this in the Backround to help me fall asleep incredibly boring keep up the good work
Thank you for taking the time to give me your feedback Gary. Point noted.
@@CoatsandGaiters am winding you up mate just banter am in the army Scotland 🏴 good detailed video . My q7 abs pump is buggered so I need to do this for mine got the rosstech so will use the program to bleed the brakes got the Sealey pressure bleeder on order to
@@garyalcorn3831 Thank you for that Gary. I do admit my on camera persona is probably a bit bland though haha The ABD pumps can be a problem as the wires can break on the sensor inside. They can be sent off for repair or I ended up buying a second hand one off ebay to pass an MOT.
@@CoatsandGaiters I was planning sending away for complete strip down and rebuild compared to buying second hand as not sure how to recode it . Was it your pump in the end that was shot after doing all this brake bleeding ? Did you have to further bleed it after replacing the pump aswell?
@@garyalcorn3831 I re soldered my pump by opening it up as sometimes that works but their is a sensor inside with wires as thin as human hair which can break after a while. As long as the new pump has the exact number on it would work but like you say you may have to recode so in a way it's better to send it off and get a guarantee and you know it's the right one anyway. The problem I had after removing the pump was purging the air out of the unit itself. This can require a diagnostic tool to activate the motor and the valves. Some have said to rag it around a car park braking hard to activate the ABS and hopefully clear the air out that way. My car passed an MOT but the pedal wasn't as hard as it was before removing the whole unit.
Thank you for the upload! It has given me more reassurance about the process! When you purchased the Sealey bleeding tool, did you have to order the cap separately? Just wondered if it was a different size for the R50s as its linked separately in the description? Thanks
Thank you for the comment. If I can recall it was only the universal cap with chains that might have been an optional extra. It comes with a 42mm cap which apparently fits most European cars.
@@CoatsandGaiters that's great thank you for the quick response. Have a good day and please keep uploading!
@@williammatthews35 Thank you and have a good weekend William.
V.comprehensive video. But how do you clean the Sealey brake pressure bleeder out afterwards? I imagine a thin film of brake fluid will be left on the inside walls, which will absorb moisture & contaminate new brake fluid at the next change.
Thank you. What I do is to rinse it all through with water and and leave it to dry.
@@CoatsandGaiters - Thanks for the quick response! Does plain water mix well with brake fluid oil?
@@BenzkneesMake up your mind. One minute your stating brake fluid absorbs moisture, which is WATER then asking if WATER mixes with brake fluid. 😀
@@One_over_the_eight - Haha, sounds that way. But absorbing a mere 2-4% makes a brake fluid change necessary. Whereas trying to use a lot of water to wash away a small amount of brake fluid is an altogether different proposition.
IVery well explained, is that a Gear Wrench ratchet your using?
Thank you Bina. Not sure which tool your looking at but it might be listed in my description as I try to list all the tools I use.
Did you try changing the wheels bearings, the problem from the ABS might come from there.
Thank you for the comment. I think it was the sensors. If I remember correctly I bought two new ones.
another great video . Thank you Mark
Thank you Marcel.
morning,
did you try the Sealey adapter by chance on your Renault? Does it fit? Or is the adapter set (>200€) needed...?
😬
I haven't used the universal adapter with he chain
@@CoatsandGaiters but the one that comes with the box... does it fit the Renault?
@@withgrowinginsanity198 I'm not sure now as I sold that Renault. Sorry. They seem pretty standard. Was access really tight. There was one car I couldn't get access to the top with the pipe on.
@@CoatsandGaiters "sold that Renault" -> Oh nooooo 😱
@@withgrowinginsanity198 I have a later model now the MK3 - still 2008 though
Really enjoyed this video thanks!
Thank you for the compliment and hope it helps you.
When bleeding brakes start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest one.
That's how I have always known it, so unsure why the manual said it slightly differently unless they didn't account for right hand drive when writing the manual.
@@CoatsandGaiters, I would bet that’s the case, the manual is written for left hand drive cars.
@@djmgarage306 Think so. Had me stumped as I thought do I go with furthest from master cylinder or exactly as the book says.
Pretty sure with modern ABS cars you want to start at the point furthest from the "ABS manifold".
@@koperety that's still usually the furthest wheel from the master cylinder as the MC is usually virtually still on top of the ABS valve block (as you say, manifold).
Mark did you find out what was the cause of abs light situation?
Sadly not. I went straight onto removing the engine series. If I get a diagnostic reader at some point I will take another look at it. I’m assuming it’s the velocity sensor but don’t actually know.
@@CoatsandGaiters
Might be worth getting a dcan cable and a copy of ista. In fact I can sort you out with a working version of ista. It's a revelation!
@@skylined5534 Thank you so much for the offer but the Mini's have gone now and I now have Renault Lagunas and that Peugeot 207 still. I managed to get hold of a second hand Autel 808 after the laptop one gave up on me.
@@CoatsandGaiters
Ahh no worries! Good luck with the Rens, I've had several over the years now and while they're not trouble free sometimes they're nowhere near as unreliable as some would have you believe!
Thanks for all the videos you've made regarding the Minis, they've helped me a lot to resolve several issues on my missus's R50 Cooper. Narrowed the ABS light trio (quartet if you count the traction light!) Down to I think two duff abs magnetic rings on the left! Fingers crossed replacing the stuffed ones will resolve it!
Edit: just had a look at those Autel 808s... they look awesome! Supposed to be really good bits of kit from what I've read.
@@skylined5534 My wife has always had Renault Lagunas and took them to 150k miles before changing them. I used to joke about them but they never went wrong. She has just upgraded again to her 6th Laguna and I'm now driving her old one to do some HGV work to supplement UA-cam. It has 174,000 miles on. Nothing has ever gone with with it apart from usual suspension and brake parts. Original turbo, clutch, exhaust etc. M9R diesel engine's seems to be really good. We still have a Mini in the family so may still do the occasional video but the problem is I need the cars for a few days to make a video and I don't have a courtesy car to give people haha
Surly as far as diagnostics computer goes for the purging the ABS pump goes operating the pump direct to a 12v supply does the same
I couldn't say as I think it opens the valves and operates the pump in a sequence. I've read some suggest taking the car to a car park and driving it fast then slam on the brakes to operate the ABS normally which might purge any air out.
@@CoatsandGaiters Probably ,it's a shame it didn't work after the Hrs of work put in ,either the board has another fault or there is a wiring fault to one of the sensors
@@LOTPOR0402 I know, I read that their is a deceleration sensor inside with very fine hair like wires to it and they fail. I've assumed it might be that. I keep looking on eBay for my exact model number as I would buy one and then take this one completely apart for UA-cam.
@@LOTPOR0402
Get a DCAN cable and the latest version of ISTA.
95% of the time the abs fails on these 1st gen minis is bad hubs , more specifically bad FRONT hubs...
I did have some fun and games with the ABS. Trying to remove a broken wheel hub sensor I used a drill and cut the magnetic inductor ring so had to buy a new bearing !!!! ahhhhh
@@CoatsandGaiters
I had it happen to me on the front so I had to drill it out or replace the entire carrier but thankfully I got lucky.. only after replacing 4x speed sensors and all 4x hubs did I get the trifecta to turn off.. check my channel. I git 2x minis , ones 300+whp and other is coming along