Winter Solo Climbing The Triglav North Wall
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- Опубліковано 24 лют 2024
- Join me as I solo climb the Triglav north wall via the Slovenian route.
The route had mostly excellent conditions, with a few short sections of dry-tooling and mixed terrain. After topping out of the route I crossed the remains of Triglav glacier and summited Mount Triglav via the normal route from Kredarica.
#climbing #mountains #outdoors - Спорт
Sorry to be party pooper, but please don't throw out bananas in the nature, it takes up to 5 years for them to dissolve....up on Triglav Im' sure it will dissolve much much slower than that.
Just imagine everyone would throw out their trash on mount everest, that must look terrible....oh wait...
Yeah, you’re 100% correct.
I only did that because I didn’t have any plastic bags or anything to store the squished banana in the backpack without making a mess.
I pinned your comment so others can see it as well.
Thanks for speaking up!
@egart im sure something in nature will take care of that organic waste in no time man, its better for nature than people think. after all it came from the ground it should return to the ground at the end of its cycle. Monkeys in the jungle dont throw theirs away and their environments are much better off!
Yay, I always argue with mates about taking back banana peels to proper city trash and not leave it in the mountain, and they are like: dude, it's natural and degradable. And I'm like: dude, where we live there are no bananas in nature!
yeah @@rara58524 i promise you there are hungry animals that happily eat one another that would smell out your food waste and take care of it for you. the reason we have to elevate our trash when we camp is so animals cant get into it while we sleep! its no biggie in the grande scheme of things.
🤓
Awesome as usual.
Thank you!
Best climb yet. Thanks for taking us along. Stay safe.
Thank you for the kind words! 🙏🙌
Thanks that was beautiful- a real workout day
Thank you! It sure was a proper workout 🙌😊
Awesome showing a Triglav climb in good winter conditions ❄️🏔️ Best time to avoid the crowd up there. Interessing that some passages on the way are actually easier to overcome than in summer. But of course with proper gear and experience
🏔️❄️👍🏻
Yeah, the only time I ever summit Triglav is in the winter. Summer is way too crowded for my taste.
The Slovenska route with the snow conditions I had was in fact way easier than in the summer.
But the normal route from Kredarica to Triglav is for most people always easier in the summer.
And of course just like you said… in the winter it’s only accessible with proper gear and experience.
I have climbed this in summer of 2023 from the south, starting from Planina Blato, sleeping in Kredarica dom but would love to go back and do it from the north.
14:48 I accidentally climbed that rocky bit (where the rocky bit meets the snowy bit) up to the hut because we were in a hurry and I wanted to get up first to let the staff know we are coming and will need food. Not my wisest decision, looking back, but I have learnt a lot during those 2 days. I am still a beginner, when it comes to climbing.
Gorgeous place! Thanks for this video! I liked the ice bathing bit, it sure never does get easier :D Subscribed, keep it up and keep safe, first and foremost!
"This journey is breathtaking!!! Thank you for the incredible video!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it 😊
Your videos are so cool! Always look forward to a new upload, blessings from Ireland.
Thank you for the support!
Blessings right back from Slovenia 😊
really love the adrenaline rush of the little couloir in mixed terrain. Good content for real bro, keep the good work !
Yeah, that was a super nice section. My favourite part of the route!
Thank you brother 🙏😊
Thanks for another amazing adventure Andraz. I do all my climbing in the US, but it's so great to be inspired by climbers in other places. I would be lying if I said some of your climbs have not gone on my bucket list haha.
Thank you brother, I’m really happy to hear that! 🙏😊
Are there any climbs in particular that have gone on your bucket list, or the Slovenian Alps as a whole?
@@andrazegart The first video of yours I watched was funnily enough your Triglav climb from around 6 months ago, and it immediately made it onto the list. Then some of the Bivouacs you have stayed in are very cool. They are not that common where I am, so it would be an awesome experience.
I also really want to climb Großglockner as my heritage is Austrian (and Estonian!) So climbing it had already been on my list.
beautiful when you topped out of the north face. thanks for sharing!
Yeah, it sure was magical with that warm sunshine 😍.
Thanks for watching! 🙏
Your activities are beautiful and an inspiration. 💪
Thank you so much!
It inspires me to hear that 🙏
First time watching your videos, great one thx!
Thank you! 😊
WoW! That’s Incredibly Awesome And Breathtaking Adventure! Cheers!🥂❤️✨
Thank you very much my friend!
Cheers! 🙌❤️
That´s the first time i see someone finally open the small peak shelter. I always wanted to see what it looks like inside :) Stay safe man
Hahah I’m glad I could make that happen for you 😅🙌
Thank you,
cheers😊
Great Video and effort on a beautiful day!!!
Thank you, it sure was a day well spent! 😊
Thanks for showing me how Triglav north face feels like. I was on Triglav just once (for a Slovenian that is sort of obligatory) and we took the normal route, of course. Even so I was scared, heights are very far from comfort zone. So climbing with you seems like the best option for me 😍🙂
Thank you 🙏
I have to say the first time my father took me and my sister on Triglav, I wasn’t very cool with the heights either. But eventually I got used to it.
On the other hand, I can never get used to spiders 😅
amazing video!!!! brightened my day
Thank you for the kind words! 🙏😊
Well done! I'm glad it's cold enough there to have such hard snow. This winter so far has been incredibly warm, every snow in the mountains seems too soft and unstable.
Thank you.
Yeah, despite being a super poor winter, we had some excellent climbing conditions this season 🙌
What a journey my friend, this looks amazing!
Thank you very much! 🙏
Majestic as always! 🤴🏻
Thank you! ❤️
Keep it up man! Love the content
Much appreciated! 🙏
Now I think that is BIG! Good effort!
Thank you brother! 🙌😊
Great video, great climb.
Thank you! 😊
Great video! I really enjoyed watching it
Thank you, I’m glad to hear that 😊
Cool video! I like the camera mount on the iceaxe, it looks good and haven't seen that one before.
Very cool and good climb❤ 🎉
Thank you 🙏❤️
Bravo, super video in zelo lepa avantura! Vsa čast! 👏👏👏
Hvalaa! 😊🙏
Moj poklon tebi.Varno in srečno na vseh poteh.Pazi nase💯🙏👍
Hvalaa, cenim! 🙏😊
Awesome video as usual andraz
Thank you my friend! 🙏
Sweet video. This is the kind of video I would like to see more on YT. Personal, like talking to a friend and climbing together.
Thank you, I really appreciate that 🙏😊 More to come!
Wow, wow, wow, greatest respect! Thanks for showing the conditions up there. Triglav is up high on my list - I'm from Graz and up on the mountains every weekend. But temperatures were too high the last few weeks, as you surely know, so I didn't dare to take up some real mountains because of avy risk. Though Avalanche level was quite low all the time, I really have respect for those wet snow avalanches.
Thank you brother!
Awesome to hear that 🙌
Yeah, it’s always best to be extra cautious in the winter.
Avalanche predictions are a good guidance, but they’re not always correct, so it’s up to each individual to decide for themselves :)
Cheers, stay safe 😊
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤ najbolji kanal ikad 🎉🎉🎉
Thank you very much 🙏❤️
Unglaublich schöne Tour
Du hast einen perfekten Job gemacht 🏆🥇🧗👍 danke
Thank you my friend! 🙏😊
cheers for doing such a fine job of sharing that/ liked your ability to “catch” it all on Vid, + appreciated t English subtitles. a fine day out.
Thank you! 😊
I put a lot of effort into my videos, so I really appreciate you saying that! 🙏
Awesome!
Thanks! 🙌
Beautiful place
It sure is 😊
Varen korak Andraž še naprej!
Hvala! 😊
Andraž dober si, a vseeno pazi nase! Good luck🍀.
Hvalaa! Bom 🙌😊
Really nice video 🔝
Much appreciated! :)
I've summited Triglav several times in the summer - great to see footage of someone on the top in winter - fantastic as always, keep the videos coming!
Thank you very much!
Which route did you take? 😊
very strong man, i like it this video, Triglav I love him
Thank you my friend! 🙌
Getting stuck in that hut would be a nightmare
Hahaha yup.
And imagine everything goes wrong… you run out of battery on your phone and the weather gets real bad for a week…
Would make a good story for a movie though 🤣
@@andrazegart 100% 😬😅
Čestitke za lep vzpon. Sneg pa kar lepo predelan in drži. Še naprej ti želim veliko užitkov pri plezanju in čim lepših tur. Ta samota v hribih mi je bila vedno najbolj všeć.
Hvala!
Ja, res je. Top razmere sem narajmov :)
Ravno pravi čas, preden je nasulo meter novega snega 😀
love from nepal bro love your content
Thank you brother! 🙏
Kind regards from Slovenia 😊
Yep, another fabulous day out you have given us. I can only echo what has been said here so often. Brilliant video work, nice commentary, solitude in the mountains (did i not spot another person though?) - all a very zen like peace you give. Pity about the banana tut tut, and the ice bath ugh !
Thank you brother, for all the support on each journey! 😊
Yeah, I was all alone for almost the whole day 🙌
I only came across a few people on the normal route/ridge. But other than that it was pure peace and solitude.
Super video samo napred !
Hvalaa! 🙏🙌
kapo dol perfekten vspon perfekten video🙌
Hvala!! 😊
Excelent, chapeau, cool video, cestitke
Thank you!! 🙏
Crazy man, just dont die!
Thank you, I won’t!
Another good video! Keep em up man. It is great to see your channel grow surely and steadily!
Thank you for the kind words!
I’m overwhelmed by all the support 🙏
Bravo Andraž! Ta pravi si!
Hvalaa!! 😊
Great 🤠
🙏🙌
❤
❤️
👏👏👏👏👏
Bravo momak! Pozz iz Pule!
Hvala!
Pula mi je zelo pri srcu. Že kakšnih 5 let hodim tja poleti na dopust 😊
Ich war auch schon oben, aber im Winter ist das eine große Herausforderung 👍
Congrats on the ascent!
I found your channel only recently...but blazed through your videos as they're incredibly good. Keep up the great work & content! And please stay safe (if possible with your daring solo ascents...). A question, if I may? What's the orange shell jacket you wear in this video? Thanks, Tomas
Thank you for the kind words brother! 🙏😊
The jacket I’m wearing is Mountain Equipment Garwhal magma :)
Lets go new upload!
🙏😊
Браво , брат ми ! Уникално видео , луканка и хляб в планината с топъл чай , няма равно ! Или термос пълен с борш и хляб , мама му …. Уникално , каква е фанелата , която ползваш ?
Legenda ej🍻💪💪
Ma ti si legenda 😀🙌
Camera work is very good. I can see the height and angles rather clearly, which I know is difficult to capture. Felt anxiety on some of the more exposed traverses even from my desk lol.
Thank you!
Yeah, it’s a lot of work to keep changing the angles all the time, so I really appreciate that 🙏😊
svaka cast severna stena je kr svic gledat iz kavca. Sine prav a je to dedi haha k da ve da je plezu enkrat na triglav… Sm kr caku tale video cuvaj se ❤
Hvalaa, cenim ❤️🙏
Hahah me veseli, da tut sine zraven gleda 😊
The Triglav north wall has always been something else😍 just like your videos😉 really enjoyed this one, keep it up, you're the best🙌 One question, have you ever climbed sfinga on the north wall?
Thank you very much for the kind words and all the support! 🙏😊
Not yet, hopefully one day 🙌
Hi Andraž, I just recently found your channel. Great videos! Out of curiosity, how old are you and what are you doing besides the climbing as work?
Hey, thanks for watching!
I’m 22 years old. Half a year ago I quit my job to focus on youtube and hopefully make it full-time before I run out of money :)
Hey, great content, really enjoy it. What climbing ice axes you are using in your videos
Thank you my friend!
In this video I’m using Grivel tech machines :)
💓
🙏🙏
Downloaded - watching later
🙏😊
Was that the cave you once slept in? I remember you did an overnight at a cave (you chiseled some ice steps) - was that in the Triglav?
17:38 The BANANA INASIDE is actually GOOD !!! only rind is rotten...
You can see from the video the banana is quite literally in liquid form 🙃
Great video, thanks!!! Can you say what model of your jacket, bag and ice tools?
Thank you! 🙏
Jacket: Mountain Equipment Garwhal
Pack: Millet Peuterey Integrale 35+10
Ice tools: Grivel The Tech Machine
hello mate, awesome video. Can you show your camera gear and your techniques for recording? how do you mount the camera into the ice axe? those scenes are amazing!
Thank you! 😊
I’m using a gopro hero 10, and an iphone 13mini.
Thanks for the suggestion.
I’m definitely gonna show my setup… but I’m not sure yet if it’s gonna be in a video or on my website (which is currently in development).
Amazing work both climbing and filming, wow! How much was the loop in length and elevation?
Thank you very much! 🙏😊
Off, I have no idea 😅 I almost never track my activities.
He must have done about 1900-2000 vertical meters in elevation and somewhere between 17-20km for his tour 💪🏻
@@cgoutdoor I think you are accurate. He’s like the Energizer Bunny lol
must be fun
It sure was! 😊
@@andrazegart good to know
Super. Svetovni video🫵🤝🤝 samo varno še naprej
Najlepša hvala! 🙏😊
Intereting to see video about slo. biggest mt. and dangerous north face......Lets go...respect...but that banana was very NO NO....
Thank you! Much appreciated 🙏
Yeah, not ideal, but I didn’t have a bag or anything to store the smooshed banana, so it is what it is.
Bravo omladinac
Hvala! 🙏
bravo stari
Hvala stari 🙏😀
Nice video! Liked it. Just one question, I felt like you wore your crampons for a very long time, and also whilst running? I try to use crampons as little as possible, since well, you have sharp metal spikes under your feet so it does provide a pretty big risk.
That bath did look sweet :)
As long as you’re in the mountains on snow, you should never put the crampons off :)
Yeah, I could put them off on some flat parts on the descent, but not for longer than 20mins… because then the terrain got steep and icy again, so it’s not really worth it.
@@andrazegart yeah figured that it probably got steep and icy again, primarily worried about the running with crampons 😂 stay safe!
nice
Nice 🦕
Thanks for the video tour. :) Do you post your route maps anywhere? I’m confused which down climb you used.
Thank you!
Sorry, but I don’t track/record my activities anymore.
I barely even remember to charge my watch, so half the time it’s out of battery anyway hahah.
I descended through the valley Za Cmirom.
@@andrazegart no worries, I'm surprised you manage to keep the camera on then! ;) No but thanks, Cmirom makes sense. Maybe see you in the mountains sometime.
Hi i love your videos can i asked how you learned this i am climbing but how do you get into this type?
Thank you!
In our country we have alpinism school.
It’s not really a school, but you have weekly courses where you learn all about alpinism.
If you’re interested, try to find the nearest alpine club in your area, and they should have the info you need to start the courses.
goat
You’re the goat 🙌
Looks cool 🤙🏻 do you know the conditions now by any chance?
Sorry, I just saw the comment now :)
If you’re ever interested about conditions you can send me an email… it’s in my bio.
Hi, great video 👍… what is the model and brand of the red jacket you are wearing? Thanks
1:32
Thank you!
Mountain Equipment garwhal magma :)
I had a panic attack watching you do the vertical angled section at 10:24. But then when the section is over, yo say "What an enjoyable section. I wish it was longer". LOL. Also the latch on the door at 16:56 is so badly designed, you could have easily locked yourself in when you shut the door from the inside. You should count yourself lucky. Not your fault though. Anyone would make that mistake.
But what an adventure man! Thanks for taking us along.
Thank you! 😊
Hahah that was my favourite part of the route 🤣
Yeah, it did spook me a bit, but I think if you kick the latch up, you’re gonna get out in almost every scenario…
as long as the wind doesn’t blow too much snow in front of the door :)
In that case, you’re toast haha.
How do you even trust all the snow and ice? I was going around lake Bohinj in June and found the snowy patches super sketchy. I didn't have crampons, but even with equipment I wouldn't be comfortable going up even the normal route of triglav 🤔
The leftover snow in june is a completely different cup of tea to the snow and ice in winter though.
@@gerritjager1884 yeah makes sense. Still unintuitive to me how one can put so much trust into the ice supporting some of your weight with the ice axe
After time you get a pretty good feeling about the snow/ice “strength”.
It’s hard to explain, but as soon as I stick my ice axe in the snow I instantly know how strong it is.
Yeah, Triglav is a completely different story in the winter. It shouldn’t be done without proper experience!
@@andrazegartmakes sense 👍
You should invest in one of those banana cases 😉
What??
I’ve never heard of that before hahah. Need to get one asap! 🙌
Just out of curiosity, what grade do you climb on sport climbing routes? Your max
My max was 7c last year, but due to a rhomboid injury I couldn’t train for a year now, so it’s probably more like 7a now.
@@andrazegart you are a great guy, keep it up and take care of you man!
Pozdrav, gdje bih mogao naci topo ruta na Sjevernoj steni, il bar tocni detaljni opis uspona ovom ili nekom drugom rutom? prosao bih kroz par tjedana isto solo, a ne zelim se bas gubit nasred uspona 😅
I don’t have a guide book for that area, but I can ask a few friends…
Send me an email, and I’m gonna get back to you with the topo if I find it.
andrazegart2.0@gmail.com
What model of piolet do you use?
Do you mean ice axe?
Grivel the tech machine.
Bravo Andraž, lepa, kot vedno 🙏💪👏. Spet si ujel čudovito vreme in lepo pikanje 😃... Stena pa itak 😊
Sem pa komaj potem videl, da naprej proti vrhu ni bilo ravno sončno in še kmalu bi v Aljažu ostal ;) ... lepa!
Hvalaa! 🙏😊
Res sem fenomenalne razmere narajmov. Ravno pravi čas, preden je nasulo meter novega snega :)
Hahah ja morm rect da me je kr mau stislno k so tista vrata primrznila za moment 😅
@egart 😂 še sam pri sebi sem rekel "o fak. ne no ..." .. bi bilo kar malo hecno, če ne bi mogel odpreti ...
Kako je bilo potem "Za Cmirom" ... dol proti gozdu je bilo že bolj malo snega, kolikor sem videl .. kaj pa gor na prehodu s travnikov na melišča, pa pod Begunjskim?
Great video! For what it's worth, I don't think you need subtitles. Your English is excellent and the subtitles aren't needed to understand you.
9:00 - 11:00 min duuuuude this looks scary af
Do you have somewhere a list of your equipment?
Not yet, sorry.
In the future when I have my own website I’ll also have a gear list on there.
@@andrazegart ok, looking forward to it
Vsa cast
..da sem privezan na 3 zajle nebi upal it po tej poti 😀
Hahah hvalaa! :)
CONGRATS Master!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
BEAUTIFUL Video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good Adventure !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
CHAPEAU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
BEST WISHES.
💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
🧗♂🧗♂🧗♂🧗♂🧗♂🧗♂🧗♂🧗♂🧗♂
Thank you brother! I really appreciate the kind words 🙏
I've been to Triglav and the north wall is, if you'll pardon the language, intimidating as fuck.
😂 Yup, it’s quite a unit haha 😅
Can you please go to tatry in poland
Yeah, definitely. I already had plans to go there a couple times, but it never worked out.
I’m hoping to visit this summer :)
Zašto ne mirrejlov kamin?
Never heard of that before. Where is it?
Great work, fantastic scenery, well narrated: My advice as an "oldie" => keep "flying" (i.e. climbing) solo safely 4 as long as you can. Enjoy the unique tranquility of life/mountains/hiking before "responsibilities" (marriage, fatherhood & children) come along! 😊
Thank you, I very much appreciate it 🙏😊 That’s the plan! 🙌