Great video. I used a 30mm crow foot wrench 5:28 to get at the belt tensioner. It’s a special order tool but it made it so I could get at the tensioner nut without moving the engine up.
Thank you Kevin for the video. Our Mini is a non turbocharged 1.6L engine, so we did not have to worry about the intake duct. Plenty of space to remove the 18mm nut and raise the engine. Very grateful for the pin on the tensioner. 1 hour total from wheel up to wheel down. The dealer had quoted us 1.5 hours!
Thanks so much for posting this! My Countryman S developed a loud knocking noise which was worse at tickover. It sounded like timing chain or a big end to me! It's really that bad! Anyway I thought that It's worth just checking the drive belt first and once I removed the wheel and cover, I could see that the belt was damaged with lots of rib cracks and one section (about 1 inch) without any ribs left!! I managed to set the tensioner pin without loosening anything engine mount related, it's all about having the right spanner (or adjustable in my case). I got the old belt off and the new one on by turning the engine and feeding the belts that way. That pulley that you have moving easily at 7:26 was really tight on mine, but turning the engine from the crank bolt did the trick feeding the belts out and then back in! I'm really pleased with this £20 fix and 3 hours on the driveway this morning dodging rain showers! Thanks again.
Thank you for the video, Kevin! I bought two Haynes manuals to work on the used 2014 Countryman purchased in mid 2023, one for the 1.6L engine, and one for the rest of the car, but it was for UK models, so different engines and none of the photos matched to what I was seeing. Your video was especially helpful with the friction tensioner, pulling the tab to release tension. Never would have figured out on my own. I see that at least one other (jjassilen) from 7 months ago reported that if you use a 30mm crow's foot wrench (on an extension and rachet wrench) you can reach the main belt tensioner through the headlight opening and eliminate removing top engine mount and jacking engine up/down.
Hi Kevin! Thank you for the video it was a big help. As a heads up we decided to do this a little bit different and ended up being a bit easier and thought I would share if you were interested. Instead of taking the tire off we just turned it all the way to the right. Which allowed you gain enough space to work. We did pull the lower part of the wheel well paneling off enough that you can peel it back till we saw the pulleys. We took off the lower panel that covers the belt but instead of taking the headlight and jacking the engine up you can push the main tensioner from underneath with a bar till the pin clicks in. This allowed us to release the tension on the belt fairly easily and then we followed your video for the rest. Huge help in finding how to release tension on that other wheel that holds the belt. Thanks again! Hope this helps on your next install.
@nicodelafuente I was wondering how did you get the tensioner bolt to go back into place after you finished the job do you have to push the pin to get it to loosen up and then use a bar to push it back in the opposite direction?
You, sir, are a hero. Bought my Paceman about 2 years ago, all is the same as your car from the firewall up obviously, but is pretty obscure on UA-cam. Upon inspection, my belt was all cracked, lots of bad bushings that I've already replaced at this point. My belt has finally broken, luckily it went almost immediately after I had gotten home. Back then I didn't find a good video to just go from, and prevent catastrophe. With your help, this will be a breeze.
Thanks for the video. I was able to do this without raising the engine because I just had a buddy press the lock button on the tensioner while I pushed up on it with both hands. I had just enough strength to get it far enough to lock in place. Also noticed my crank seal was leaking so I got that done while I was in there.
Thank you for the video! I literally did this to my R60 in July because the belt completely crumbled, Unfortunately I am doing it again due to an Oil leak near there which cause the new one to worn out faster and crumble, BUT should be a lot easier now 😎
My drive belt just been done I thought was timing chain was very worried as only got the car just befor Xmas 14 reg with only 39,000 miles the noise of engine sounded like a tractor but now it's all fixed 👌 thanks for video
Thank you Soooooo much!!! Great vid, sad these cars are so crappy. This car is killing my sister, I'm trying to talk her into selling it, but she says, I've got so much $$$$$ tied up into it. Thank you again!!! 😇🙏👍🌽
Looks like there are 2 v-belts for a 2011 R60 S with Turbo. Do you happen to know the difference? One is "without control valve" but I'm not sure what control valve I would be looking for to tell if I have it or not. 6KX905 is for AC without control valve and 6KX895 I assume is with control valve. Also, I think there is a typo in your video title. Can you edit it? I think it'll make the video easier to search for. Maybe add R60 to it or the description, too. Thanks!
Without seeing the estimate, it’s hard to say if there are other things on there. But the belt itself isn’t very expensive $20 to $30 and labor could maybe be 2 hrs. I don’t know exactly. So $1600 for a drive belt and nothing else is way too high. I would definitely get a second option.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage Thank you. I've been suspecting they are gouging me, plus, they took my cash out of console and took my manual - which really pissed me off! I'll definitely check around.
Great video. I used a 30mm crow foot wrench 5:28 to get at the belt tensioner. It’s a special order tool but it made it so I could get at the tensioner nut without moving the engine up.
Thank you Kevin for the video. Our Mini is a non turbocharged 1.6L engine, so we did not have to worry about the intake duct. Plenty of space to remove the 18mm nut and raise the engine. Very grateful for the pin on the tensioner. 1 hour total from wheel up to wheel down. The dealer had quoted us 1.5 hours!
Awesome glad I was able to help!
Thanks so much for posting this! My Countryman S developed a loud knocking noise which was worse at tickover. It sounded like timing chain or a big end to me! It's really that bad! Anyway I thought that It's worth just checking the drive belt first and once I removed the wheel and cover, I could see that the belt was damaged with lots of rib cracks and one section (about 1 inch) without any ribs left!! I managed to set the tensioner pin without loosening anything engine mount related, it's all about having the right spanner (or adjustable in my case). I got the old belt off and the new one on by turning the engine and feeding the belts that way. That pulley that you have moving easily at 7:26 was really tight on mine, but turning the engine from the crank bolt did the trick feeding the belts out and then back in! I'm really pleased with this £20 fix and 3 hours on the driveway this morning dodging rain showers! Thanks again.
Thank you for the video, Kevin! I bought two Haynes manuals to work on the used 2014 Countryman purchased in mid 2023, one for the 1.6L engine, and one for the rest of the car, but it was for UK models, so different engines and none of the photos matched to what I was seeing. Your video was especially helpful with the friction tensioner, pulling the tab to release tension. Never would have figured out on my own. I see that at least one other (jjassilen) from 7 months ago reported that if you use a 30mm crow's foot wrench (on an extension and rachet wrench) you can reach the main belt tensioner through the headlight opening and eliminate removing top engine mount and jacking engine up/down.
Hi Kevin! Thank you for the video it was a big help. As a heads up we decided to do this a little bit different and ended up being a bit easier and thought I would share if you were interested.
Instead of taking the tire off we just turned it all the way to the right. Which allowed you gain enough space to work. We did pull the lower part of the wheel well paneling off enough that you can peel it back till we saw the pulleys.
We took off the lower panel that covers the belt but instead of taking the headlight and jacking the engine up you can push the main tensioner from underneath with a bar till the pin clicks in. This allowed us to release the tension on the belt fairly easily and then we followed your video for the rest. Huge help in finding how to release tension on that other wheel that holds the belt.
Thanks again! Hope this helps on your next install.
Thanks for posting. I’ll probably never do it again but this might help someone..
@nicodelafuente I was wondering how did you get the tensioner bolt to go back into place after you finished the job do you have to push the pin to get it to loosen up and then use a bar to push it back in the opposite direction?
Thanks for this. It was very helpful for my 2016. It took longer than it should have. Better Lighting would have been a great help.
Thanks Bill
You, sir, are a hero. Bought my Paceman about 2 years ago, all is the same as your car from the firewall up obviously, but is pretty obscure on UA-cam. Upon inspection, my belt was all cracked, lots of bad bushings that I've already replaced at this point. My belt has finally broken, luckily it went almost immediately after I had gotten home. Back then I didn't find a good video to just go from, and prevent catastrophe. With your help, this will be a breeze.
Thanks for the video. I was able to do this without raising the engine because I just had a buddy press the lock button on the tensioner while I pushed up on it with both hands. I had just enough strength to get it far enough to lock in place. Also noticed my crank seal was leaking so I got that done while I was in there.
Thank you for the video! I literally did this to my R60 in July because the belt completely crumbled, Unfortunately I am doing it again due to an Oil leak near there which cause the new one to worn out faster and crumble, BUT should be a lot easier now 😎
My drive belt just been done I thought was timing chain was very worried as only got the car just befor Xmas 14 reg with only 39,000 miles the noise of engine sounded like a tractor but now it's all fixed 👌 thanks for video
Thank you Kevin your videos are a big help! Do you have a video on how to replace the tensioner pulley combo? Thanks!
Sorry I don’t that video would get you about 75% of the way there. Thanks for watching.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage Thanks!
H thanks for the exent video I have problem my belt don fit y buy the correct maybe have a trick to put on
Any easy way to get in there and replace the alternator, without having to dismantle the front end?
Thank you Soooooo much!!!
Great vid, sad these cars are so crappy.
This car is killing my sister, I'm trying to talk her into selling it, but she says, I've got so much $$$$$ tied up into it.
Thank you again!!!
😇🙏👍🌽
My daughter has this car, I work on it too.....turd of a car, but my kid loves it! ;)
Wow! You are awesome! It's no way I can do all that...
Thanks for watching!
Arent you generally supposed to replace the tensioner and idler pulley as well?
Looks like there are 2 v-belts for a 2011 R60 S with Turbo. Do you happen to know the difference? One is "without control valve" but I'm not sure what control valve I would be looking for to tell if I have it or not. 6KX905 is for AC without control valve and 6KX895 I assume is with control valve.
Also, I think there is a typo in your video title. Can you edit it? I think it'll make the video easier to search for. Maybe add R60 to it or the description, too. Thanks!
Had to change the alternator turbo 2014
Done many earlier models for transmission replacement & i remember was easier
Why take off the headlight? You can access the belt assembly without doing that?
curious on this as well
Thank you 😊
Thank you sir...😊
What a major PIA!
What belt you used? I can fit my belt so easy, looks too short used contitech 6pk685
I used the contitech 6K894.
The mechanic I’ve been using quoted me $1600 to replace mine. Is that a little high? I’m wondering if I should get other quotes?
Without seeing the estimate, it’s hard to say if there are other things on there. But the belt itself isn’t very expensive $20 to $30 and labor could maybe be 2 hrs. I don’t know exactly. So $1600 for a drive belt and nothing else is way too high. I would definitely get a second option.
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage Thank you. I've been suspecting they are gouging me, plus, they took my cash out of console and took my manual - which really pissed me off! I'll definitely check around.
Sorry to hear that hopefully you’ll find a place that is honest and try and take advantage of you
How come you don’t buy a quick jack?
I like the quick jacks but they don’t lift high enough. I have been looking at the max jack. Higher lift and still portable.
www.maxjax.com/maxjax/
@@KevinsEuropeanGarage 👍
Its not a chain ?
Lmao, I was about to buy one but after watching this I figured out why it was so cheap. Thanks for the video I won't be buying one.
It’s not that bad. My wife’s mini has been a good car to her.
Info😊
how to jack the car up video
Are u in Az😂
To much work. Not needed.