Excellent video. Gives me a bit more confidence to do this job on my r56. It looked quite a struggle to get the extra 180 degrees on the crank bolt with all those long extensions. A trick I have used before in similar situations is to support the extension where it meets the breaker bar with a jack stand rather than trying to keep it up with your hand. Thanks for taking the time to make the video. People like you are a great help to others with these cars and all their problems.
Thanks for watching and the kind comments mate! And that’s a good idea looking back now lol, I was struggling, I should’ve worked smarter and not harder😂 I hope it has helped you as I tried to be honest as I don’t really have a clue in the grand scheme of things. Best of luck with yours mate
Thank you so much BTR, you ve made the best video about this engine, angles, quality image, parts that need to be explained… everything is well made. I finally understood about this different specific tools needed and about the 180 degrees stuff (it was good to see that struggling part, then we know it is normal). Same as previous comment, I also now have confidence to do it. Merci beaucoup, and on top of all your English is really clear for foreigners ! 😉
Thank you very much for your kind words! I’m really glad that the video can be useful and understood by other people around the world! I am not a mechanic but I do like to try fixing and creating things myself, and I try to explain it like I am watching the video myself as I can look back on it and remind myself in a way that I’ll understand ahaha. Good luck on your timing chain replacement my friend and thanks for watching!
Definitely possible mate, I didn’t think I’d be able to take apart an engine to this degree but with the correct tools, confidence and rewatching the videos over and over during the process you’ll be able to as there’s so much to remember lol. I watched so many videos before actually attempting it myself and I’m pleased I managed to get it done and save myself a lot of cash
Amazing video matey. I’m now about to do my very first timing chain. I’ve bought me a Mini Clubman Cooper S. it’s running okay, but the mileage brings caution. So am now going to complete this myself. Much appreciated. Nice easy to follow video.
Excellent job and best DIY vid i've seen. Well done and thx. I learned a lot. You know there is a cheap metric tool for the degree torque? Anyways this way works as well 😅. Good Man
Thanks mate, I really did try to explain the process as simply as I could. I wanted to translate what I’ve learned into the easiest guide I could make. I’ve rewatched my own video as I’ve done another timing chain since this one lol. Thanks for watching mate, best of luck with yours!
Great video. 1) do not reuse the crank bolt or the cam bolts. I read where someone reused them and being used and stretched, they bottom out and do not put enough pressure on the sprockets 2) I cleaned and wiped all friction surfaces so there is zero oil between my cams and sprockets to make sure there is nothing that can get them to slip.
Over watched this video on and off that last two days as I changed out the timing chain and all the other stuff from Detroit Tuned. Things I learned: the four bolts that hold the upper motor mount bottom bracket to the block may break. You can’t remove the timing chain and guides with the dipstick still in place. And finally, 15” diameter walnut logs work great as Jack stands when you can’t find your second pair. 😊
I did this on my N18 Cooper S before getting rid of it a month or so later due to finding out it had a bad piston ring that scored the cylinder wall. It's pretty easy taking everything apart and putting everything back together compared to the landfill of other common issues these engines suffer from. But, it doesn't take much for this job to turn into a nightmare. I was on pace to finish this in 9 hours time or so, but it turned into a job that took from Friday evening to Sunday night due to seized bolts, the flywheel pin not lining up with TDC, the camshaft tool not lining up when the flywheel pin was finally set, and spending hours trying to get timing right. Pro tip: If you don't have a torque wrench that goes down to the torque spec of 0.4nm of torque or whatever it is, just pretension the chain with the new tensioner, worked for me. Also, don't over time the camshaft gears or the VANOS gear(s) (depending on if you have an N18 or N14) since it'll idle rough and throw a bunch of errors and timing errors.
Careful with reusing cam sprocket bolts. If their torque to yield their engineered to stretch when torqued and re-stretching them (torque tightens them ..180deg stretches them) could cause them to snap prematurely. Usually the shoulder of the bolt is smaller than the threads or shaft of the bolt in a tty. Just a suggestion for people watching. I could be wrong . 👍🏻
Great vid, as it looks like something i might need to do. Would you recommend investigating the sump as a 1st step ie if theres bits of plastic in there, it's a sign the timing guides are damaged?
Yeah that would be the best way to approach it mate thinking about it. I did have pieces up against the oil pump as well. But the smaller pieces did fall into the sump and in the oil pick up
Ive never had a problem with torque, you basically made those big bolts very tight, better to go with hand feel rather than a auto ratchet. I have a 2012 n18 engine in my cooper coupé, love it, only have 70000km, hope i never have to do this. Great video though. Yes you did a great job!
Bruh i wasnt Sure about the locking Tool, bc mine was sticking Out Like yours did. In other Videos the locking Tool goes all the way in. But now im sure that it will function
Excellent work and excellent video! Would you be willing to answer one question for me? What was the original symptom that led you to the timing chain being the issue? My type S has a very bad rattle (especially at idle) and it now wants to die (like the timing has changed ever so slightly)…. I wish I could have heard this motor run before you started. Fantastic video!!! Thank you!
Thanks for watching mate, if you look at the video I posted before this one you’ll hear what sound the engine was making. You could hear the chain just rattling against broken plastic. If you’re losing power too I would recommend changing the chain kit before you do damage to any internal parts!
@@BTR_REBUILD oh gosh, thank you! I am sorry that I did not notice the prior video! Thank you so much! Being quite handy and having repaired most any automotive issue throughout my life, this one I felt was maybe too much?! But not anymore! You’ve inspired me to just do this job myself! Thanks again: and Cheers Mate!
Thanks for the detailed yet straightforward explanation. I have a 2007 MCS with only 80,000km on it in Adelaide, Australia where labour charges for this Jon are astronomical! Just one question. What are you’re thoughts on the necessity to replace the two camshaft torx bolts? Other tech guides I’ve read specify them as single use. Any comment? Thanks again for the vid.
I’m no mechanic but they are torque to yield bolts and pretty inexpensive so I would change them over. My kit didn’t come with them but if it’s a car you’re keeping I’d recommend Changing them
Among other issues. That’s how I feel since I bought mine. My chain snapped however, so I likely have to replace some things in the head unit. I am not sure yet. Still in the research phase before I take anything else off
So… What was the super secret means of replacing the crank seal? Typically rubber/silicone + hammer + socket extension isn’t a formula for success?? Thanks for the video - REALLY informative. I need to do this on my car and I’m looking forward to having a go!
First thank you, I wish you lived next door and I'd feed you well and pay you for this job lol. Question, I'm confused...if you used the torque wrench and set it to the correct tightness why did you then do the 90 degree turns AFTER it was torqued to spec?
Took me 2 days just because I was waiting on parts, but if you had it all ready with tools I think you could get it done in a day with no issues of course
Sorry bud you can not do this, you need new bolt and use brake cleaner voor het doordraaien van de tandwielen op de kruk of nokkenas, er mag beslist geen olie tussen zitten, ook moet je alle tandwielen vervangen dus ook de vvt vanwege een nieuwe ketting ( chain) alleen op nieuwe tanden kan, Ook kun je de nokkenas bouten maar 1 x gebruiken zijn rekbouten en nog veel meer zoals de tipex witte stip op de nokkenas bout om de 90 graden te zien, en je moet een stapel stenen onder de krukasboutstang plaatsen zodat je normaal kracht kunt zetten
I used old one but it is recommended to replace, there are kits that include the bolts. Mine did come with them and car seems to still be driving great
Excellent video. Gives me a bit more confidence to do this job on my r56. It looked quite a struggle to get the extra 180 degrees on the crank bolt with all those long extensions. A trick I have used before in similar situations is to support the extension where it meets the breaker bar with a jack stand rather than trying to keep it up with your hand. Thanks for taking the time to make the video. People like you are a great help to others with these cars and all their problems.
Thanks for watching and the kind comments mate! And that’s a good idea looking back now lol, I was struggling, I should’ve worked smarter and not harder😂 I hope it has helped you as I tried to be honest as I don’t really have a clue in the grand scheme of things. Best of luck with yours mate
The mini timing chain fantastic video with step by step information. Must be one of the best posts on this job, excellent mate. Thank you.
No worries mate, I tried my best to document everything I did and the way I did it! Thanks for watching
The absolute best video on this particular procedure!
Thank you mate, really appreciate it!
Thank you so much BTR, you ve made the best video about this engine, angles, quality image, parts that need to be explained… everything is well made. I finally understood about this different specific tools needed and about the 180 degrees stuff (it was good to see that struggling part, then we know it is normal). Same as previous comment, I also now have confidence to do it.
Merci beaucoup, and on top of all your English is really clear for foreigners ! 😉
Thank you very much for your kind words! I’m really glad that the video can be useful and understood by other people around the world! I am not a mechanic but I do like to try fixing and creating things myself, and I try to explain it like I am watching the video myself as I can look back on it and remind myself in a way that I’ll understand ahaha. Good luck on your timing chain replacement my friend and thanks for watching!
That paper on the table trick is absolutely genius. I'll be stealing that idea if I ever have a table to put my parts on. Great video!
No problem mate ahaha, just a cheap ikea table. Thanks for watching!
Great video. You've now got me thinking that perhaps I can do the chain at home.
Definitely possible mate, I didn’t think I’d be able to take apart an engine to this degree but with the correct tools, confidence and rewatching the videos over and over during the process you’ll be able to as there’s so much to remember lol. I watched so many videos before actually attempting it myself and I’m pleased I managed to get it done and save myself a lot of cash
Hello,great work on putting on the timing chain on the Mini,it looked complicated but it can be done with experience.
Cheers Steve, it can definitely be done. It’s easy once you understand how something works
Amazing video matey. I’m now about to do my very first timing chain. I’ve bought me a Mini Clubman Cooper S. it’s running okay, but the mileage brings caution. So am now going to complete this myself. Much appreciated. Nice easy to follow video.
Great job and video!
Thanks for all your detailed videos! I am a first time Mini S owner and your videos have been very helpful! Excellent videos, thanks for all the help!
Smashed It mate, well done
Thank you mate, appreciate it!
Excellent job and best DIY vid i've seen. Well done and thx. I learned a lot. You know there is a cheap metric tool for the degree torque? Anyways this way works as well 😅. Good Man
Thanks mate, I really did try to explain the process as simply as I could. I wanted to translate what I’ve learned into the easiest guide I could make. I’ve rewatched my own video as I’ve done another timing chain since this one lol. Thanks for watching mate, best of luck with yours!
Nicely done!!
Best video ever! Please keep going
Well done, great job yet again,👍keep up the good work 👌
Thank you Dean, I appreciate it!
Great video. 1) do not reuse the crank bolt or the cam bolts. I read where someone reused them and being used and stretched, they bottom out and do not put enough pressure on the sprockets 2) I cleaned and wiped all friction surfaces so there is zero oil between my cams and sprockets to make sure there is nothing that can get them to slip.
Yes great job you did it and saved hundreds in labor
Over watched this video on and off that last two days as I changed out the timing chain and all the other stuff from Detroit Tuned. Things I learned: the four bolts that hold the upper motor mount bottom bracket to the block may break. You can’t remove the timing chain and guides with the dipstick still in place. And finally, 15” diameter walnut logs work great as Jack stands when you can’t find your second pair. 😊
I did this on my N18 Cooper S before getting rid of it a month or so later due to finding out it had a bad piston ring that scored the cylinder wall. It's pretty easy taking everything apart and putting everything back together compared to the landfill of other common issues these engines suffer from. But, it doesn't take much for this job to turn into a nightmare. I was on pace to finish this in 9 hours time or so, but it turned into a job that took from Friday evening to Sunday night due to seized bolts, the flywheel pin not lining up with TDC, the camshaft tool not lining up when the flywheel pin was finally set, and spending hours trying to get timing right.
Pro tip: If you don't have a torque wrench that goes down to the torque spec of 0.4nm of torque or whatever it is, just pretension the chain with the new tensioner, worked for me. Also, don't over time the camshaft gears or the VANOS gear(s) (depending on if you have an N18 or N14) since it'll idle rough and throw a bunch of errors and timing errors.
Great video. Very helpful and given me the confidence to have a go myself. Cheers 👍
Amazing work. Thanks for posting you hard work Job well done !
Excellent. What a clever effort ..
Thank you mate, appreciate the kind words😀
Careful with reusing cam sprocket bolts. If their torque to yield their engineered to stretch when torqued and re-stretching them (torque tightens them ..180deg stretches them) could cause them to snap prematurely. Usually the shoulder of the bolt is smaller than the threads or shaft of the bolt in a tty. Just a suggestion for people watching. I could be wrong . 👍🏻
Your not wrong. Both cam bolts & the crank bolt are torque-to-yield (single use) and need to be replaced.
Great vid, as it looks like something i might need to do. Would you recommend investigating the sump as a 1st step ie if theres bits of plastic in there, it's a sign the timing guides are damaged?
Yeah that would be the best way to approach it mate thinking about it. I did have pieces up against the oil pump as well. But the smaller pieces did fall into the sump and in the oil pick up
@BTR_REBUILD cheers! I might have the chance of a free 2010 Cooper but apparently it's noisy and only firing on 3 cylinders.
great video mate well explained and good views of what you was doing.cheers
Not a problem mate, thanks for watching my video as I know there’s a couple on here👍🏻
Ive never had a problem with torque, you basically made those big bolts very tight, better to go with hand feel rather than a auto ratchet.
I have a 2012 n18 engine in my cooper coupé, love it, only have 70000km, hope i never have to do this.
Great video though.
Yes you did a great job!
Bruh i wasnt Sure about the locking Tool, bc mine was sticking Out Like yours did. In other Videos the locking Tool goes all the way in. But now im sure that it will function
Excellent work and excellent video! Would you be willing to answer one question for me? What was the original symptom that led you to the timing chain being the issue? My type S has a very bad rattle (especially at idle) and it now wants to die (like the timing has changed ever so slightly)…. I wish I could have heard this motor run before you started.
Fantastic video!!!
Thank you!
Thanks for watching mate, if you look at the video I posted before this one you’ll hear what sound the engine was making. You could hear the chain just rattling against broken plastic. If you’re losing power too I would recommend changing the chain kit before you do damage to any internal parts!
@@BTR_REBUILD oh gosh, thank you! I am sorry that I did not notice the prior video! Thank you so much! Being quite handy and having repaired most any automotive issue throughout my life, this one I felt was maybe too much?! But not anymore! You’ve inspired me to just do this job myself!
Thanks again: and Cheers Mate!
well done
You look like a pro.
Great video man.... I mean you look like you quite mechanically minded... Doesnt look to easy for us normal peeps LOL
Thank very much friend
Thanks for the detailed yet straightforward explanation. I have a 2007 MCS with only 80,000km on it in Adelaide, Australia where labour charges for this Jon are astronomical! Just one question. What are you’re thoughts on the necessity to replace the two camshaft torx bolts? Other tech guides I’ve read specify them as single use. Any comment? Thanks again for the vid.
I’m no mechanic but they are torque to yield bolts and pretty inexpensive so I would change them over. My kit didn’t come with them but if it’s a car you’re keeping I’d recommend Changing them
fabulous video, thank you
Among other issues. That’s how I feel since I bought mine. My chain snapped however, so I likely have to replace some things in the head unit. I am not sure yet. Still in the research phase before I take anything else off
You might’ve got lucky but best way to find out is to do a compression test and if all are reading compression then you haven’t damage anything!
So… What was the super secret means of replacing the crank seal? Typically rubber/silicone + hammer + socket extension isn’t a formula for success?? Thanks for the video - REALLY informative. I need to do this on my car and I’m looking forward to having a go!
Do you have a link to the kit please ? 😅
Great vid...tips and explanations thanks!! What year model was that car?
First thank you, I wish you lived next door and I'd feed you well and pay you for this job lol. Question, I'm confused...if you used the torque wrench and set it to the correct tightness why did you then do the 90 degree turns AFTER it was torqued to spec?
Hi, first of all: thanks for your video!
Is it correct to torque the chain tensioner first and then the camshaft gears?
good job how long did it take?
Took me 2 days just because I was waiting on parts, but if you had it all ready with tools I think you could get it done in a day with no issues of course
Great video and top instruction Thanks. What was the mileage on your engine.
103k on the clock mate, thanks for watching!
What if I don't have a timing tools
So those missing chain guide bits could easily be in the oil pump, you should have dropped the sump.
Sorry bud you can not do this, you need new bolt and use brake cleaner voor het doordraaien van de tandwielen op de kruk of nokkenas, er mag beslist geen olie tussen zitten, ook moet je alle tandwielen vervangen dus ook de vvt vanwege een nieuwe ketting ( chain) alleen op nieuwe tanden kan,
Ook kun je de nokkenas bouten maar 1 x gebruiken zijn rekbouten en nog veel meer zoals de tipex witte stip op de nokkenas bout om de 90 graden te zien, en je moet een stapel stenen onder de krukasboutstang plaatsen zodat je normaal kracht kunt zetten
Just order a new pvc house, it will break, you're welcome!😂
Great video mate, did you have to replace the cam sprocket/VVT bolts and crankshaft bolt or just use the old ones? Cheers.
I used old one but it is recommended to replace, there are kits that include the bolts. Mine did come with them and car seems to still be driving great
omg this engine is dirty inside. Looks like it was serviced with 30.000km+ oil change intervals.