Don’t forget to check out the new website addition that includes the addition of our new premium apparel store at RainmanRaysRepairs.com 😉 Our mugs and tumblers make a great gift! 🎁
By the way most people know how to float valve works most people know about this device obviously you just didn't have the tools it's not the knowledge it's the tools to do it same thing with certain vehicles if you haven't noticed you need to buy tools to get it done just like with this
And don't even bother replacing them after you snap them off you know like come on really you just put on some f****** dumb version that doesn't even really hold up to bear to the version that was on there
Hey Ray. I'm a former landscaper and have dealt with that situation many times. You need to add a fuel shut off valve between the tank and carb. Then when you are done with the equipment shut the fuel off and leave the equipment running until it burns the fuel out of the bowl on the carb. For winter storage I always used STA-BIL fuel additive. Always worked well.
Great Advice, the Newer Rubber Seats in Carbs. on all forms of small engines over time Leak through and will fill Crankcase with gas thus diluting lubricating oil. Sad part, these Needle Valve seats cannot be replaced without buying the whole Carb...
Needles or seats can be replaced in most metal body carbs on small engines. Sometimes it's the needle that has a rubber tip to seal off onto a metal seat. Sometimes it's a rubber seat that the metal needle seals off. If rubber seat & metal needle replace both at the same time. The trick to pulling the rubber seat is to use a crochet hook to pull & install the seat.
You are correct and there's another advantage to running it out of fuel which is now the float valve is open and not holding pressure on the rubber seat forming a permanent dent in it.
Just a quick note on those lower control arms you just replaced. I’ve always seen that those arms are supposed to be loosely installed, and then final torque applied to the nuts and bolts with the car on the suspension at normal ride height. With the back axle sagging, almost all the way down, when you tighten those nuts and then drop the car onto the suspension, it will twist the rubber bushings almost like a preload. Then, when the suspension actually compresses, it could twist those bushings farther than they’re designed to go. And don’t let anyone tell you, you can’t repair lawn equipment… Lol a lawnmower is still an engine!
I always install a shut off valve in the rubber fuel line. They are only a couple $$. Shut the valve and let it run dry. I'm Getting ready to clean the carb on my Deere GT mower. I use an ultrasonic cleaner. One of my other favorite channels is "Chickanic". She runs a small engine repair business and puts out really good informative videos.
Lauren, auto furniture model. End of the season, drain the gas and run it dry. Today’s gas has alcohol which absorbs water which rusts, metal. If it’s a two stroke step two, fill carb with two stroke oil, pull it through. Coats the diaphragm and prevents it from getting brittle.
Thank you Ray! I put away my lawnmower for the winter yesterday, and in addition to running the gas tank dry as I have before, I drained the carburetor per your instructions here.
You should think about getting a sandblast and cabinet, you will be amazed at all the time saved getting things cleaned up and all the things you would use it for!
I really like what you are doing to the Escalade-Silverado. There are many Chevrolet pickups with over a million miles on them. Several are posted on the internet. Some are owned by farmers. Your truck has a lot of life left in it. With the Dura-max engine you should have years of pleasure ahead of you driving it.
Spent many years doing this particular task on outboard motors. Reaction between the air, water, fuel and aluminum bowl created a slime that clogged ports. Me and the guys could tear out the carb, clean it, and make all sneer again in about 15 minutes. It got to be monthly maintenance, even when using fuel dryer additives.
I'm up to the 30:17 mark on the video... I believe the "What is that" rod/connection he's asking about is a thermostat choke control. There's a plate that goes between the motor and the exhaust muffler that heats up the thermostat and adjusts the choke... this way it'll assist starting it when the motor is warm/hot.
I had EXACTLY the same problem on my Snow Blower. After 20 minutes of carb disassembly, I surrendered my effort and ordered a new carb for $20. It just wasn't worth my time to fuss with it and get it cleaned out. Good thing I did that in July!
I just did a service on that same weed eater for my neighbor. You did a great job for not being a lawn mower guy. I wanna see you fix an tune some chainsaws lol
As quoted by Mark Radcliffe, the associate producer of Home Alone, explained that snow wasn't in the budget for the first movie. However, production required continuous snow after a real blizzard occurred on the second day of the shoot. Snow machines, bags of ice, semi-trucks of shaved ice, and potato flakes helped create the wintry illusion. So they were in there Lauren 😊
Like the mower combo video They make a product called “stabile”for the fuel in mowers with a shutoff on them some people completely drain their mowers and equipment the stabile should be put in and then ran for a few minutes to wnsure it gets in the fuel i side the carb and valves too also they make wintertime oil and breather additives for storing and even using them in the winter time i used to work on mowers for a living. By the way there are micro holes 3-4 inside the carb passage that goes to the engine some are for air mix and the others are pisitive pressure and gas mix a single wire bristle from a steel brush will fit in them and clean them out easily
My Cub Cadet snow blower had no fuel shut off; my old Ariens machine did . So I put one in-line and feel much better about myself. I have used Sta-Bil in my gas can - 15 years no issues with water or fuel degradation. I also use non-ethanol gas.
Hi Ray. I'm from Australia and I picked up a lot of small engine skills from The "Taryl fixes All" UA-cam channel. Educational and entertaining, like your channel, but for small engines. I do almost all the engine maintenance on my lawn equipment myself now. Saved myself heaps. The first thing I would have done was to remove the bowl on the carb. Between it being full of crap and moisture, and the dry fuel tank, would have had me checking that oil pronto! Oh, and clean the weeds off the line spindle, or you'll have an overheating engine and a blown head gasket in no time. And lastly, rather than add Sta-Bil or other snake oil remedies to the fuel, run non ethanol fuel on all your lawn equipment.
Which is weird, because in Iowa, the largest ethanol producer in the States, has non-ethanol fuel in quite a few stations. And, a full fuel tank in the Fall keeps fuel from going stale.
Back in the day I ran a small engine shop. What I used to do to winterize an engine is to. Drain/siphon the fuel tank. Start the engine, & let it run, til it's out of fuel. IF IT IS A 2 STROKE ENGINE just let it idle til it quits. The bottom of the crank gets its lubrication in the fuel. If you run it full throttle you could oil starve & damage stuff. When the engine quits change the oil, sharpen the blade, inspect air filter {plug is too hot to deal with, but it does need inspection later} correct anything needs attention. Let it sit with no gas in it, that goes in when you wake it for the next season. The only thing diffrent on a Motorcycle is some models you are able to shut off the fuel petcock, start it & let it run outta fuel. The fuel in a sealed gastank although might be stale it should be ok. Putting something like Stay-Bul in the fuel accomplishes the same thing. The fuel in the bowl is the issue. It will oxidize/evaporate but as the level in the bowl drops it gets refilled. And it will continue as long as there is liquid in the tank. That is where the varnish smell comes from & how EVERYTHING gets clogged. Don't forget the intermediate fuel ports near the edge of the slide/butterfly that is the biggest cause of stumbling, & "cold natured" type of complaint, those little holes are clogged.
I put a plastic filter and a shut off on all of my yard equipment because winter / summer use. End of lawn mowing, shut valve and let mower run until carb empty, same with pressure washer, weed wacker, backpack blower and edger, do same with snow blower in fall.
Above the main jet in that carburetor is a brass emulsion tube which has tiny holes in the walls. With the jet out the emulsion tube can be popped out for cleaning also.
Lots of advice for the carb. I can say after living in FL over 20yrs, some of the standard methods don’t work here because of the high humidity. I used to be a SeaFoam believer, but that has let me down in more recent years. Sta-BIL didn’t work any better. Draining the carb was bad because of what you experienced - the bowl rusts and aluminum corrodes. So far, the best luck I’ve had for storage is: Ethanol-free fuel, leave the tank/bowl full, and use Lucas Fuel treatment with a little 2-cycle oil in it. I’ve gotten to the point that I put it in my fuel cans when I fill them and haven’t had any issues since. Also, as you drive down the road with the trimmer in the back, it bounces causing the float to bounce… overfilling the bowl with gas that inherently then fills the crankcase. As others have said, install a fuel valve.
the 3rd wire from the carb going under the plastic cover is the speed governor. It functions of the flywheel revolutions. That plastic cover is an air cooler. The fins on the flywheel pull air thru the top of the engine to keep it cool, The wind produced goes past an air stopper attached to the 3re wire going to the carb When the engine revolutions increase to fast, ,the air stopper opens up forcing the wire to shut off gas flow in the carb. Simple but effective overspeed govenor.
In addition to a fuel shut off valve, I always use non ethanol fuel in my small engines that get put away for months at a time. This is really true for any kind of outboard engine. Of course for a large outboard, this can add extra running expense, so just start to use it the last couple of fills of the season. Stabile also helps, but just does not take care of the ethanol problem. Once I started using ethanol free fuel in my small engines, I never really had a carb problem again even if forgetting to do anything before storage.
If you're planning to store things, draining the tank and carb is always the best course of action, Tank sweating won't happen if you store the empty tank with the lid cracked open but usually isn't a problem if it's properly empty anyway (the usual problem is hygroscopic fuel pulling water out of the atmosphere)
Yeah, there’s same thing you do for vehicles and gas stabilizer or gas antifreeze is also all in Canada that we have a stuff for gas from separating. Make sure the water doesn’t separate from the gas.
I just ran into a similar issue on a 70 year old B&S motor yesterday. Water froze around the float. Surprisingly, there are still carbs and rebuild kits available for it on Amazon.
Oh Ray, adding a little bit of Marvel Mystery Oil to the gas tank helps to prevent the gumming up and varnishing in the carbs from the gasoline sitting there too long. In fact, back in the 1920s, this was the main reason MMO was invented, because gasoline back then wasn't as well refined and would varnish up in the carbs, especially on those early model cars. MMO was designed to prevent that varnish and gumming up of the stale gasoline. So try some MMO in your trimmer's gas tank next time.
There are end of year fuel treatments you can run through. In the UK we have aspen fuel that do 2 stroke and 4 stroke fuel that doesn't go off and if you have a small engine you don't use much it better to run it all the time as it doesn't affect the diaphragms and seals in the small carbs.
Ray, that nut that holds the bowl on is also a Jet. If the motor surges that jet is clogged. Winterize the fuel with can't think of the name but its blue.
Really enjoyed the step change with you stripping and fixing a lawnmower,. I did however have to double check i hadn't indvertently clicked on a Mustie1 posting.😂 Speaking of other YT favourites, i often wonder what a callBotation between Rainman and Vice Grip Garage woukd be like. I can imagine the look of horror on Rays face as Derek suspends an exhaust sytem using a length of rusty fence wire he had just pulled out of a hedge. Would be some conedy gold.😅
I have to clean the carbs on my lawn stuff at least every other year if I neglect it. But I try to clean out the carbs on my equipment at the start of every year. ( since I never clean out the old gas before the season end. hahaha ) Yay michigan weathers!
They actually do use instant mashed potato as a movie replacement for snow. It doesn't go off because it's not real potato. It just dries out which doesn't change it's appearance at all.
your fine... i did small engine repair for over 30 years from a kid. I was looking forward to this one. that was the thermostatical choke coil attached to the muffler. when the muffler gets hot, it shuts the choke off.
It's great that you can do that as a favor, and it's great if people can do this themselves. But FYI a replacement carb is ~$20, so govern yourself accordingly, as they say. And agree with everyone about installing a fuel valve, for running the carb dry when you're done, and for making it easier to drain the tank of stank gas if it's gone bad. Inline fuel filter is a good idea too. And finally, if you're really not going to use it for months or years, crack the plugs and the carb drain and spray in some fogging oil.
This took me back 50 years to when I had a minibike with a Tecumseh engine. I learned engine basics on that thing and on a lawnmower with a B&S engine, I have used those skills throughout my life to do almost all of my own car repairs. I thought at the time I was just having fun, but a whole lot of learning was going on.
Memories, my '69 Rupp Sprint minibike had a 3.5hp Tecumseh. I was going to restore one for the grandkids but found out they had become so collectible parts were crazy expensive.
Who would have thought? I also had a 3.5 HP, it was salvaged from a paint pump and had a geared crankshaft as opposed to splined. I bought a used splined crankshaft, some gaskets and piston rings and rebuilt the engine. This is when I was in 8th grade. As I look back those were some of the best times of my young life. We lived in Southern CA and had a big expanse of undeveloped land nearby, it was my playground.
It's usually safest to deal with gummed up carb jets by dumping the whole thing in an ultrasonic bath. Those cheapie carbs are notorious for not having much available in the way of spares and it's pretty easy to break the body when unscrewing the jet due to rotten castings
Ray, from out here in the Pacific Northwest we add STA-BIL fuel stabilizer to our fuel. I have found the best way is just add the STA-BIL to the gas can when you buy the fuel. Some two-stroke oil comes with it already added. It works and stops the gas from going bad after a few months.
Stihl motomix, run like a 1/4th of a tank through till it dies running out of fuel, put it away empty. According to my local Stihl rep that is the best way to winterize their stuff, i'm sure it works on things that aren't orange also. Stihl stands behind their fuel enough to double your warranty on any new equipment if you buy some of their fuel with it, at least 2 stroke wise. They do have separate 2stroke and 4 stroke mixes
45:20 I use Trufuel with my small engine equipment. For my street bike I use Royal Purple fuel system treatment/stabilizer during summer storage. It's hotter than a rattlesnake's taint out here in the wasteland during summer. Lol I put a battery tender on it as well.
Don’t forget to check out the new website addition that includes the addition of our new premium apparel store at RainmanRaysRepairs.com 😉 Our mugs and tumblers make a great gift! 🎁
By the way most people know how to float valve works most people know about this device obviously you just didn't have the tools it's not the knowledge it's the tools to do it same thing with certain vehicles if you haven't noticed you need to buy tools to get it done just like with this
What's kind of sad is her as a lot of those on car vehicles and you guys just snap them off
And don't even bother replacing them after you snap them off you know like come on really you just put on some f****** dumb version that doesn't even really hold up to bear to the version that was on there
Pfft, we used to use our alignment rack as a catering table during holiday lunches.😏
What's with the Eagle River Wisconsin Hoody? I spent my summers up there in my Yute!
JUST HOW IN the effffffffff was I not here for THIS 🤯🤯🤯🤯
😂😂😂😂
Well, you could be here for all of it…
@@wifeunit this is true
Hey Ray. I'm a former landscaper and have dealt with that situation many times. You need to add a fuel shut off valve between the tank and carb. Then when you are done with the equipment shut the fuel off and leave the equipment running until it burns the fuel out of the bowl on the carb. For winter storage I always used STA-BIL fuel additive. Always worked well.
I second that plan. Works for my lawn equipment. Greetings from Orstraylia
@@garymakin2299 Greetings from Kentucky.
Great Advice, the Newer Rubber Seats in Carbs. on all forms of small engines over time Leak through and will fill Crankcase with gas thus diluting lubricating oil. Sad part, these Needle Valve seats cannot be replaced without buying the whole Carb...
Needles or seats can be replaced in most metal body carbs on small engines. Sometimes it's the needle that has a rubber tip to seal off onto a metal seat. Sometimes it's a rubber seat that the metal needle seals off. If rubber seat & metal needle replace both at the same time.
The trick to pulling the rubber seat is to use a crochet hook to pull & install the seat.
You are correct and there's another advantage to running it out of fuel which is now the float valve is open and not holding pressure on the rubber seat forming a permanent dent in it.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Thanks!
Rays Lawn mower repair channel................. LOVE IT!
Just a quick note on those lower control arms you just replaced. I’ve always seen that those arms are supposed to be loosely installed, and then final torque applied to the nuts and bolts with the car on the suspension at normal ride height. With the back axle sagging, almost all the way down, when you tighten those nuts and then drop the car onto the suspension, it will twist the rubber bushings almost like a preload. Then, when the suspension actually compresses, it could twist those bushings farther than they’re designed to go.
And don’t let anyone tell you, you can’t repair lawn equipment… Lol a lawnmower is still an engine!
FerrariBird (Screaming eagle sound plays....love it!)
I always install a shut off valve in the rubber fuel line. They are only a couple $$. Shut the valve and let it run dry. I'm Getting ready to clean the carb on my Deere GT mower. I use an ultrasonic cleaner. One of my other favorite channels is "Chickanic". She runs a small engine repair business and puts out really good informative videos.
I thought about her as I was watching this.
Fresh gas and Sta-Bil, keeps gas nice. Try it, and thanks for the always-informative, often humorous vids!
Lauren, auto furniture model.
End of the season, drain the gas and run it dry. Today’s gas has alcohol which absorbs water which rusts, metal. If it’s a two stroke step two, fill carb with two stroke oil, pull it through. Coats the diaphragm and prevents it from getting brittle.
Uncle Ray's Small Engine Repair. Ray is the best one-armed auto mechanic on Florida's west coast.
Always nice to see Lauren.
That Pontiac is as close to a Ferrari as my Mazda SUV is to a Peterbuilt.
Thank you Ray! I put away my lawnmower for the winter yesterday, and in addition to running the gas tank dry as I have before, I drained the carburetor per your instructions here.
I live in Illinois, always winterize mowers and such by running them until they run out of gas. Simple and effective. Just fill and go in spring.
Regarding lawnmowers and such at the end of the season you can either run the motor until it runs out of fuel or put a fuel stabilizer in the tank.
You are expanding you're knowledge.
I like watching you repair anything, even lawnmowers. So bring it on.
He will repair it off camera.
I like small engine repairs, they are a great place for beginners to learn.
Good Evening. Wow just noticed I've been a member for a year!
It’s a new feature, I just found it two days ago
Awesome small mower repair job,rayman 👍👍👍
Man..... lawn care in the winter.. 🤔......Worth it...🏝👍🇺🇲
I like watching you fix small engines. I use to do this a one time before
Nice! It's all good. My grandfather used to do that stuff when I was a kid.
Anything you repair is interesting ! You got my approval 😊
Oh heck yeah, more small engine stuff is always welcome!
Another successful repair and only 1 gasket left on the floor afterwards. 👍👍😁😁👍👍
Cheers Eric
You should think about getting a sandblast and cabinet, you will be amazed at all the time saved getting things cleaned up and all the things you would use it for!
Ray you should put in a BACKUP CAMERA on your truck
I really like what you are doing to the Escalade-Silverado. There are many Chevrolet pickups with over a million miles on them. Several are posted on the internet. Some are owned by farmers. Your truck has a lot of life left in it. With the Dura-max engine you should have years of pleasure ahead of you driving it.
Spent many years doing this particular task on outboard motors. Reaction between the air, water, fuel and aluminum bowl created a slime that clogged ports. Me and the guys could tear out the carb, clean it, and make all sneer again in about 15 minutes. It got to be monthly maintenance, even when using fuel dryer additives.
I'm up to the 30:17 mark on the video... I believe the "What is that" rod/connection he's asking about is a thermostat choke control. There's a plate that goes between the motor and the exhaust muffler that heats up the thermostat and adjusts the choke... this way it'll assist starting it when the motor is warm/hot.
I had EXACTLY the same problem on my Snow Blower. After 20 minutes of carb disassembly, I surrendered my effort and ordered a new carb for $20. It just wasn't worth my time to fuss with it and get it cleaned out. Good thing I did that in July!
I love small engine repair. Fixed a few chain saw and lawn mowers
I just did a service on that same weed eater for my neighbor. You did a great job for not being a lawn mower guy. I wanna see you fix an tune some chainsaws lol
As quoted by Mark Radcliffe, the associate producer of Home Alone, explained that snow wasn't in the budget for the first movie. However, production required continuous snow after a real blizzard occurred on the second day of the shoot. Snow machines, bags of ice, semi-trucks of shaved ice, and potato flakes helped create the wintry illusion. So they were in there Lauren 😊
Like the mower combo video
They make a product called “stabile”for the fuel in mowers with a shutoff on them some people completely drain their mowers and equipment the stabile should be put in and then ran for a few minutes to wnsure it gets in the fuel i side the carb and valves too also they make wintertime oil and breather additives for storing and even using them in the winter time i used to work on mowers for a living. By the way there are micro holes 3-4 inside the carb passage that goes to the engine some are for air mix and the others are pisitive pressure and gas mix a single wire bristle from a steel brush will fit in them and clean them out easily
ITS MINT 👌
We were told to run the machine dry to prevent problems. Very interesting video. Thank you.
I know of folks who fill carb float bowls with ATF for winter storage. In spring it's a little top end oil for startup.
My Cub Cadet snow blower had no fuel shut off; my old Ariens machine did . So I put one in-line and feel much better about myself. I have used Sta-Bil in my gas can - 15 years no issues with water or fuel degradation. I also use non-ethanol gas.
Like the variety Ray. One note though, most small engine manufacturers recommend the use of Non- Ethanol gas in their engines.
Hi Ray. I'm from Australia and I picked up a lot of small engine skills from The "Taryl fixes All" UA-cam channel. Educational and entertaining, like your channel, but for small engines. I do almost all the engine maintenance on my lawn equipment myself now. Saved myself heaps. The first thing I would have done was to remove the bowl on the carb. Between it being full of crap and moisture, and the dry fuel tank, would have had me checking that oil pronto! Oh, and clean the weeds off the line spindle, or you'll have an overheating engine and a blown head gasket in no time. And lastly, rather than add Sta-Bil or other snake oil remedies to the fuel, run non ethanol fuel on all your lawn equipment.
non ethanol fuel is hard to find in the states.
Which is weird, because in Iowa, the largest ethanol producer in the States, has non-ethanol fuel in quite a few stations. And, a full fuel tank in the Fall keeps fuel from going stale.
Back in the day I ran a small engine shop. What I used to do to winterize an engine is to.
Drain/siphon the fuel tank.
Start the engine, & let it run, til it's out of fuel. IF IT IS A 2 STROKE ENGINE just let it idle til it quits. The bottom of the crank gets its lubrication in the fuel. If you run it full throttle you could oil starve & damage stuff.
When the engine quits change the oil, sharpen the blade, inspect air filter {plug is too hot to deal with, but it does need inspection later} correct anything needs attention.
Let it sit with no gas in it, that goes in when you wake it for the next season.
The only thing diffrent on a Motorcycle is some models you are able to shut off the fuel petcock, start it & let it run outta fuel. The fuel in a sealed gastank although might be stale it should be ok. Putting something like Stay-Bul in the fuel accomplishes the same thing.
The fuel in the bowl is the issue. It will oxidize/evaporate but as the level in the bowl drops it gets refilled. And it will continue as long as there is liquid in the tank. That is where the varnish smell comes from & how EVERYTHING gets clogged.
Don't forget the intermediate fuel ports near the edge of the slide/butterfly that is the biggest cause of stumbling, & "cold natured" type of complaint, those little holes are clogged.
It runs ! Yay !! Thank you for the video ! Cheers
Put a bit of HEET in for the winter to get rid of the water/condesation, and add Stabil too.
67th! Good Wednesday morning Ray and the wife unit. And a happy HUMPDAY to the new employees. Roger in Pierre South Dakota
I put a plastic filter and a shut off on all of my yard equipment because winter / summer use. End of lawn mowing, shut valve and let mower run until carb empty, same with pressure washer, weed wacker, backpack blower and edger, do same with snow blower in fall.
Above the main jet in that carburetor is a brass emulsion tube which has tiny holes in the walls. With the jet out the emulsion tube can be popped out for cleaning also.
Wife unit is too cute when she helps
You can do what ever you like , it will still be watched by me. Your mate from down Under Andrew ❤
keep "WIFE UNIT" happy.
Lots of advice for the carb. I can say after living in FL over 20yrs, some of the standard methods don’t work here because of the high humidity. I used to be a SeaFoam believer, but that has let me down in more recent years. Sta-BIL didn’t work any better. Draining the carb was bad because of what you experienced - the bowl rusts and aluminum corrodes. So far, the best luck I’ve had for storage is: Ethanol-free fuel, leave the tank/bowl full, and use Lucas Fuel treatment with a little 2-cycle oil in it. I’ve gotten to the point that I put it in my fuel cans when I fill them and haven’t had any issues since. Also, as you drive down the road with the trimmer in the back, it bounces causing the float to bounce… overfilling the bowl with gas that inherently then fills the crankcase. As others have said, install a fuel valve.
Yes Ray! All willy nilly projects are cool beans with me!!!
"Ferraro-Bird"! Love it 👍
I think you should wire the heated seats if it is there. Why not? Make the wife extra happy for the very few cold days a year in Florida.
Thanks Ray I have a similar string mower, and I will add this service to my honey do list.
Ok Mrs. Wife unit heated seats in South Florida ? Way fancy !
Sure, show us some more small/medium sized engine work. A motorcycle/garden tractor/snowmobile(maybe up at Aaron's shop?) next?
It was also cool because it was kind of a microcosm of how a car's carb works. Same idea, fuel bowl, floats, needle valve, fuel jets, etc.
If you drain the bowl when it is off season it will keep it working great without problems.
Good Day Ray
the 3rd wire from the carb going under the plastic cover is the speed governor. It functions of the flywheel revolutions. That plastic cover is an air cooler. The fins on the flywheel pull air thru the top of the engine to keep it cool, The wind produced goes past an air stopper attached to the 3re wire going to the carb When the engine revolutions increase to fast, ,the air stopper opens up forcing the wire to shut off gas flow in the carb. Simple but effective overspeed govenor.
Yes it's a fantastic idea to work on all kinds of engines
In addition to a fuel shut off valve, I always use non ethanol fuel in my small engines that get put away for months at a time. This is really true for any kind of outboard engine. Of course for a large outboard, this can add extra running expense, so just start to use it the last couple of fills of the season. Stabile also helps, but just does not take care of the ethanol problem. Once I started using ethanol free fuel in my small engines, I never really had a carb problem again even if forgetting to do anything before storage.
Yeah I rather pay for expensive fuel for small engines than cheap gas.
If you're planning to store things, draining the tank and carb is always the best course of action, Tank sweating won't happen if you store the empty tank with the lid cracked open but usually isn't a problem if it's properly empty anyway (the usual problem is hygroscopic fuel pulling water out of the atmosphere)
Yeah, there’s same thing you do for vehicles and gas stabilizer or gas antifreeze is also all in Canada that we have a stuff for gas from separating. Make sure the water doesn’t separate from the gas.
Very creative, another way to trick us into watching an oil change video….Well done Sir
I suggest you also post your "Small Engine Repair" certification in front of the shop. Love to see a yard full of mowers and weed eaters 😅
I usually run the lawn mower and snow blower dry for storage. You can use sta-bil in your fuel which also prevents the separation
I just ran into a similar issue on a 70 year old B&S motor yesterday. Water froze around the float. Surprisingly, there are still carbs and rebuild kits available for it on Amazon.
So small, very cute carburetor! 😄
Oh Ray, adding a little bit of Marvel Mystery Oil to the gas tank helps to prevent the gumming up and varnishing in the carbs from the gasoline sitting there too long. In fact, back in the 1920s, this was the main reason MMO was invented, because gasoline back then wasn't as well refined and would varnish up in the carbs, especially on those early model cars. MMO was designed to prevent that varnish and gumming up of the stale gasoline. So try some MMO in your trimmer's gas tank next time.
There are end of year fuel treatments you can run through. In the UK we have aspen fuel that do 2 stroke and 4 stroke fuel that doesn't go off and if you have a small engine you don't use much it better to run it all the time as it doesn't affect the diaphragms and seals in the small carbs.
Ray, that nut that holds the bowl on is also a Jet. If the motor surges that jet is clogged. Winterize the fuel with can't think of the name but its blue.
I've put external fuel filters before the fuel bowls on my Briggs and Strattons. Keeps the crap out if the bowl.
Good job Ray
Winter time towards the end of season add some Stabil in the tank. Should solve water issue or some ISOheat.
We use fuel stabilizer to overwinter machines in lieu of draining the fuel out. I recommend Sea Foam 👍
I run a little carb cleaner in my mower during summer use. then add sta-bil during winter .
why did I not think of getting the wife to do some Mechanic work you have a very good wife Unit .thanks for the very very informative Video
LAWN MOWER WORK!!!!!!!!!!! YES!!!
Really enjoyed the step change with you stripping and fixing a lawnmower,. I did however have to double check i hadn't indvertently clicked on a Mustie1 posting.😂
Speaking of other YT favourites, i often wonder what a callBotation between Rainman and Vice Grip Garage woukd be like. I can imagine the look of horror on Rays face as Derek suspends an exhaust sytem using a length of rusty fence wire he had just pulled out of a hedge. Would be some conedy gold.😅
I have to clean the carbs on my lawn stuff at least every other year if I neglect it. But I try to clean out the carbs on my equipment at the start of every year. ( since I never clean out the old gas before the season end. hahaha )
Yay michigan weathers!
When I was a kid we had a 1954 Ford Convertible. It had an "X" frame that made a transmission swap a big deal.
They actually do use instant mashed potato as a movie replacement for snow. It doesn't go off because it's not real potato. It just dries out which doesn't change it's appearance at all.
Hi Wife Unit
your fine... i did small engine repair for over 30 years from a kid. I was looking forward to this one. that was the thermostatical choke coil attached to the muffler. when the muffler gets hot, it shuts the choke off.
It's great that you can do that as a favor, and it's great if people can do this themselves. But FYI a replacement carb is ~$20, so govern yourself accordingly, as they say. And agree with everyone about installing a fuel valve, for running the carb dry when you're done, and for making it easier to drain the tank of stank gas if it's gone bad. Inline fuel filter is a good idea too. And finally, if you're really not going to use it for months or years, crack the plugs and the carb drain and spray in some fogging oil.
Yay Lauren using a tool instead of just standing next one 😎
Go for it!
This took me back 50 years to when I had a minibike with a Tecumseh engine. I learned engine basics on that thing and on a lawnmower with a B&S engine, I have used those skills throughout my life to do almost all of my own car repairs. I thought at the time I was just having fun, but a whole lot of learning was going on.
Memories, my '69 Rupp Sprint minibike had a 3.5hp Tecumseh. I was going to restore one for the grandkids but found out they had become so collectible parts were crazy expensive.
Who would have thought? I also had a 3.5 HP, it was salvaged from a paint pump and had a geared crankshaft as opposed to splined. I bought a used splined crankshaft, some gaskets and piston rings and rebuilt the engine. This is when I was in 8th grade. As I look back those were some of the best times of my young life. We lived in Southern CA and had a big expanse of undeveloped land nearby, it was my playground.
Hey Ray, Bring in a snowblower!
It's usually safest to deal with gummed up carb jets by dumping the whole thing in an ultrasonic bath. Those cheapie carbs are notorious for not having much available in the way of spares and it's pretty easy to break the body when unscrewing the jet due to rotten castings
That was Fun. Thanks
Ray, from out here in the Pacific Northwest we add STA-BIL fuel stabilizer to our fuel. I have found the best way is just add the STA-BIL to the gas can when you buy the fuel. Some two-stroke oil comes with it already added. It works and stops the gas from going bad after a few months.
Stihl motomix, run like a 1/4th of a tank through till it dies running out of fuel, put it away empty. According to my local Stihl rep that is the best way to winterize their stuff, i'm sure it works on things that aren't orange also. Stihl stands behind their fuel enough to double your warranty on any new equipment if you buy some of their fuel with it, at least 2 stroke wise. They do have separate 2stroke and 4 stroke mixes
I would have been so disappointed if you hadn't put the mower on the lift.😊❤❤
Here in Maine, I use one oz per gal of Sea Foam to winterize my boat and lawn mower with no issues in the Spring.
What is this "winterize" you speak of? 😊😊
45:20 I use Trufuel with my small engine equipment. For my street bike I use Royal Purple fuel system treatment/stabilizer during summer storage. It's hotter than a rattlesnake's taint out here in the wasteland during summer. Lol I put a battery tender on it as well.
I've kept my mower running more than 20 years. Never rebuilt the carb yet, but almost everything else has been rebuilt or replaced.
It was actually refreshing to see the work on the weedeater