The cap on the "Lizard Lotion applicator" contains the "Lizard Lotion" in the "Lizard Lotion applicator. Without the cap you would have a "Loose Lizard Lotion facial " and thus a bad day. The quote "It puts the lotion on the skin or it gets the hose again" comes to my warped mind. I really need to evaluate my direction in life. Nice catch on the cracked insulators on the plugs. I really enjoy your videos, thanks for all you do.
At least the last person didn't over-torque the plugs. My 2014 F!50 5L required a hi torque impact wrench to get the plugs out. I have no idea what the last person was thinking and I was simply happy that the cylinder head survived the extraction. Silly people...
That last spark plug reminds me of a neighbor who took his Buick Roadmast Limited to a Dealership to have a tune-up. about 100 miles later he ask me why his his Buick was misfiring. I had an old Snap-on Scanner that is only good up to 2003 vehicles. I'm retired but I picked up on the misfire. Both cylinder 7 & 8 spark plugs had cracks. Hard to get to and just as bad installing them. Luckly I still had my Snap on plug socket. Car ran great afterwards! I'm 74 and don't really tinker with vehicles anymore! Keep up the great work!!!
The number on the spark plug is an interchange number. As a former auto parts store employee, I can tell you that the interchange number works wonders aside from the part number! You can type in the interchange number on the online catalog and it'll pull up multiple brands of the same design spark plug but if you just type in the part number, it'll only pull up those spark plugs alone and sometimes other parts that come close to matching the part number you typed in will pop up!
UA-cam is ruining its business. They recently updated the site. Since then the Ads are outrageous. Every 8-10 minutes 2-3 45 second ads pop up. I know it’s not the content providers fault. It’s so aggravating. Even on live streaming are being interrupted. Never seen that before
Little tip for you Ray. On the BG cleaning bottle that you were using on the side opposite where the air connector and regulator is a little button you can push to vent the excess pressure left in the bottle after you disconnect the shop air supply. It's hard to spot it looks like part of the hinge for the hanger but it's actually the pressure release vent.
Installation cracks on plugs would normally would be horizontal near the bottom because when you put the swivel on you push the top of the plug sideways and then it cracks across the bottom of the porcelain. Since these were longitudinal cracks, I suspect these are actually counterfeit plugs that just aren’t made right and when they got hot, the inside of the plug expanded in the porcelain and it cracked that porcelain. It’s the same thing you see in concrete when a rebar rusts and you get those long longitudinal cracks.
@@MacRODesign55 I broke one plug 40 years ago by letting the socket go sideways with the swivel. I heard it crack but ignored it. An hour later I was replacing it.
Just fixed a cylinder 8 miss fire on a 5.4. Found the last place that did a tune up didn't replace spark plugs on cylinders 4 and 8 Good job pep boy's! Plus the 6 they did replace they put different plugs on each side of the engine.
Just those extra little touches you do for your customers, Ray, makes you one of those one-of-a-kind mechanics. That nice battery terminal cleaning you did for your customer, is just totally commendable. It has me wishing I lived in Florida, so I could bring my vehicle to you, too.
I can’t remember what creator tested multiple cold air intakes and filters. The test showed that the K&N filters let more dirt through the media than the factory. They also found that most cold air kits allowed 40 or more degree warmer air than the factory boxes.
I would love to see that#8 piston after that cleaning procedure. My old mechanic used to use a similar system but he decided to do a looky loo before and after on one of the vehicles and did not see any difference. I would love to see if the products have changed and they actually work.
Immediately after might not be the right time to see how the product works, but perhaps a couple of hundred miles of engine time. If the cleaning was instant or very fast, it could send big flakes and chunks into the exhaust part of the engine, and possibly clogging the catalyst mesh in the converter(s). If the product assists in the slower breakdown of the deposits, it likely prevents causing damage. I don't work in the field, so my statements have a lot of conditionals.
I have a Kia Cerato (Forte) with a 2l GDI engine and run a can of CRC GDI Valve Cleaner through the fuel system every 6 months. It seems to reallybwork in cleaning the carbon from the back of the valves but despite the instructions I would say the engine needs a longer heat sink for the carbon to devreleased from the valves. When it happens it is like an old James Bond movie when a smoke screen is released from the rear of the car . You can really feel the difference.
Ford part numbers @34:00... There is the catalog number, which for looking the part up in the system, then there is the Motorcraft number, which is the SP-548. I worked at a Ford Dealership for a number of years in the parts department. The Motorcraft number is the number you go by. SP-548-X are platinum spark plugs.
Interesting that both cracked porcelains were on plugs against the firewall. What do you attribute that to? No swivel on the socket, maybe. Additional heat? Eristicat, below, suggests that these plugs may be counterfeit. If that's true, that could explain the verticle cracks. I've never seen that before. However I have seen them cracked around the base.
I have been missing every episode cause of all sorts of busy times 😢 glad you are posting, and happy holidays and Merry Christmas to you family;ray, and everyone else here.
Good day ray, would really enjoy to see before and after using the carbon cleaner with a borescope. Would even prove the haters wrong… or prove you wrong but either way would love to see it!
I have removed heads from engines after running a can of GM Top engine cleaner thru it on a hot engine and running 1/2 the can in then letting it sit 30 mins then run last 1/2 thru and test drive it like you stole it. . The intake runners and piston tops were exceptionally clean and any deposits left were soft wan would have clean up with injector spray and air movement after running the engine
Ray, You may already know, but many do not, that first pots a dot of blue paint on top of the plugs on the assembly line to indicate original factory plug.
Years ago (about 40) my dad picked up a 74 pinto for us kids to drive. It was in decent shape, very low mileage. A guy up the street got it when his aunt died. It ran very poorly so he did a tune up and replaced the timing belt. He got the timing 180 out. We picked it up really cheap. After fixing the timing it ran great except it just completely lacked any speed ability. Did a compression check and all cylinders were equally low. Yes the 2l ford is not an interference model but that was what it was acting like. Appon pulling the exhaust we could see that the carbon build up on the valves was so bad it was interfering with them closing. We knocked a bunch loose with a screwdriver. Then we set up the windshield wash pump with a turn signal relay and when the car was at operating temperature would turn that on and let it roll. After a month we pulled the manifolds and looked at the progress. Both intake and exhaust were very clean. A little water vapor and some heat does amazing things.
Never question Ford's parts inventory system. Even they don't understand it. Just remember to keep all original parts for direct comparison, and pray the larger ones still have their paper ID tags from the factory still attached, or you may need a wizard to determine which replacement part you want.
Ray I think your videos have gotten much better and more interesting since you opened your own place. More interesting and detailed repairs. Like some of the in depth diagnosing you do that no other person on the planet earth would do, for example the crappy rebuilt engine install you did for the warranty claim. Man I wish I had someone like you here in CT. How great would it be if we could all see a video of the repairs done to our cars. Would definitely weed out the bad apples. Looking forward to more of the same. 👍
Ooh, I was guessing that it may be counterfeit since more than one porcelain cracks 😮 Had a fake set of nippoDenso plugs for my Nissan... I hated to do the job again after founding out later on and this was during the early 2000s when counterfeit just started to invade eBay and Amazon
They look like aftermarket (Duralast) coils. Did you happen to mention if they were changed already? I know you thought the plugs might of been changed. You have links for the cleaner you put in the car?
I have seen other UA-cam channels show before and after videos after this type of cleaning. Not using the BG product but the same process. They were concentrating on the back of the valves because that's where the worst build up is on DI engines. There was a difference but the results were not what I would call clean. There is a concern for chunks of carbon breaking off with this type of service on higher mileage vehicles. I would personally not do it unless it has been part of the maintenance service since theengine was new, say every 35 or 40k miles. For DI engines a manual or walnut blasting service will get the valves nearly as clean as new. Of course those are much more involved and invasive services and, as such, considerably more expensive.
Comment is about Other shows. Other tools, I have had Metrinch tool kit. IT has all tools which only hits the flat side of the nut, or bolt.Had to get when I had a broken spark plug inFord E150 w/ 300in 6. Great tool. I see you have trouble at times with bad nuts. This works.
I had a blue badge dealership do this to my no1 spark plug on my 1500k 2L mk 2 escort on its 1st service plus other damage to ignition system a long time ago.They could not even find the problems.Fixed it myself.
Proud owner of a VW CC 2014 2.0L DSG, 18 moths ago i changed my coil and spark plug and the tip of my coil were full of oil...this engine did'nt have a gasket but a head cover/valve cover seal...so I poured a bottle of AT 205 in the oil. Last week changed my spark plug and surprise surprise no more oil on the tip of the coil and spark plug (will reseal at the timing chain job). BTW amazing transmission the DSG 0-60 in 4 sec, changed the original suspension for Bilstein B-12 wich I highly recommand.
You mentioned how clean the coils look. Those plug wells seal up suprsingly well. My engine got a nasty, silty mud bath, but everything below the coil packs was factory clean.
I like how you always get to the problem. But this one was really quick. Ha. We had a 1991 Cougar and the last plug on the passenger side did that about every 17,000.00 miles. Dealer new about it but passed the warranty. That was the 3.8 V-6 or 3.6 ? That was a knuckle busting plug to put in.
I have a 5.0 Coyote on my '93 F150 XLT 4x4. It has to be cyl 8 or 4 because the Ford Gods deem it so. That or cyl 4. The difficulty level on 4 is akin to the tasks of Heracles. Cyl 8 is just a bonus round.
FYI for all 2019 (maybe other years), 5.0 Coyote owners. On my F150 4x4 - When starting out on a cold engine in cold weather and accelerating moderately after tranny upshifts (mildly lugging) - Do you have engine rattle? (Cam phaser) Occurs for about the first mile only. Noticed this after the colder weather come on. Always have my dealer change the oil 2-3,000 miles, depending on usage. Being concerned I mentioned this to my service manager (tiny dealership), several times. Always same answer, no TSBs, they almost all do it. Being a retired mechanic, I told him I was concerned about it. Around the 20,000 oil change I mentioned to him that the engine is burning about 1 quart every 1000 miles. He then got interested. Seems there is a TSB concerning this engine burning too much oil! He had to look a bit to find it. The TSB's main fix was a programming change to the PCV vacuum control as it was allowing too high a vacuum under de-accel conditions while at higher speeds. Now it's interesting - That re-program FIXED the cam phaser rattle when cold! Seems to have fixed the hi-consumption. Hope this helps someone.
Love your videos man. What I can see through the camera those were carbon tracks and not cracks. The result is the same, it needs plugs in probably coil boots. Often if the coil boot has a carbon track already in it, The new plugs will end up with carbon tracks in the same locations as the previous ones.
The multitude of top end and engine cleaners on the market today never ceases to amaze me. Seems like everyone has something and of course theirs is the best. Takes me back to the 50's when we just used water and a hot engine. Like others have said i too would like to see before and after scope images of the cylinders and valves. Wonder how all the miracle cleaners would stack up against plain old water.
@@davidhamm5626 I don't know, never saw that. But it was common in the 1950's we would rev the engine and drip water into the carb. Basically steam cleaning the cylinders. In the late 40's and early 50's some cars even came with water injection. We used to put alcohol or ether in the water tank.
Yep they did. We also had water injection kits for early turbo systems. Personal I always used GM Top engine cleaner. It was used on carburetor engines as well and worked great on port and direct injected engines.
rayman. its litterally easier to throw a moving blanket over the front of the engine bay and crawl right into the underhood area. those f-150's are TALL
Hey Ray Ray just thinking you may want to put some rubber pads on the lift columns so the doors do not hit metal to metal and possibly scratch the doors. Just a thought. ***********
A few weeks ago he showed the factory-mounted rubber pads on the post of at least one of the lifts. I assumed they all had them. Maybe it was just on the newest (central) one.
@jasondgandrew320 thanks Jason I have watched all of his videos for a long time but must have missed that part. I always get nervous when he opens the doors, and the darn columns are right there. If you were a little heavy set, that opening could be a challenge. Have a good one.
Carbon buildup on back of intake valve is more of a problem then buildup in cylinders. We call it induction cleaning and should be done every 30-40K miles. Simple cheap service that will make your engine idle smoother and help all around driveability
I know Ray is against anti seize compound on the spark plugs... Previous service had it on the plug threads when he was pulling the old ones out Yeah, seems plugs were changed already probably by the 100,000 mile mark. But wow, porcelain cracks on more than one plug??? Were they counterfeit?😮 I would have also presoak #8 cylinder directly with some carbon cleaner while waiting on the parts delivery That scope is a great tool while waiting for the parts to see that carbon buildup on #8😅
the reason why the spark plug package has 4 part numbers as far as i am aware is 1 number for the spark plug model (on spark plug, on box) 1 number for spark plug model + gap (on box) 1 number for spark plug model + gap single pack (on box) 1 number for spark plug model + gap 4 pack (on box) also about that spray canister disconnect the shop air wait till the pressure is out then close the out valve and you will always be ready to add new fluid
The cap on the "Lizard Lotion applicator" contains the "Lizard Lotion" in the "Lizard Lotion applicator. Without the cap you would have a "Loose Lizard Lotion facial " and thus a bad day. The quote "It puts the lotion on the skin or it gets the hose again" comes to my warped mind. I really need to evaluate my direction in life. Nice catch on the cracked insulators on the plugs. I really enjoy your videos, thanks for all you do.
The only thing that I didn't like about this repair and it wasn't with you Ray, BUT THE CUSTOMER AND THE FUEL LEVEL ON THAT GAGE!!!!
At least the last person didn't over-torque the plugs. My 2014 F!50 5L required a hi torque impact wrench to get the plugs out. I have no idea what the last person was thinking and I was simply happy that the cylinder head survived the extraction. Silly people...
That last spark plug reminds me of a neighbor who took his Buick Roadmast Limited to a Dealership to have a tune-up. about 100 miles later he ask me why his his Buick was misfiring. I had an old Snap-on Scanner that is only good up to 2003 vehicles. I'm retired but I picked up on the misfire. Both cylinder 7 & 8 spark plugs had cracks. Hard to get to and just as bad installing them. Luckly I still had my Snap on plug socket. Car ran great afterwards! I'm 74 and don't really tinker with vehicles anymore! Keep up the great work!!!
It’s raining here for few more days in South Florida please keep up the long videos 😎 I’m retired but not old enough to watch wheel of Fortune yet
😂
Or hear introduction music to 'Law&Order'🫤
I love these hour long videos. Just have to be sure to charge up the phone before starting the video.
Yup, I just charged mine, finished watching the video after this and switched this one and I'm at 60% already.
The number on the spark plug is an interchange number. As a former auto parts store employee, I can tell you that the interchange number works wonders aside from the part number! You can type in the interchange number on the online catalog and it'll pull up multiple brands of the same design spark plug but if you just type in the part number, it'll only pull up those spark plugs alone and sometimes other parts that come close to matching the part number you typed in will pop up!
UA-cam is ruining its business. They recently updated the site. Since then the Ads are outrageous. Every 8-10 minutes 2-3 45 second ads pop up. I know it’s not the content providers fault. It’s so aggravating. Even on live streaming are being interrupted. Never seen that before
UA-cam premium is totally worth it for the price I pay a month and the amount I watch in a month.
@@chasehaerteland that's the purpose...
UA-cam does that so you will get UA-cam premium...no commercials or interruptions. I got sling TV and UA-cam premium; and got rid of shitty cable.
And the More Popular the channel the more commercials are shown,
It's ridiculous SMH
Hence the "skip" button
That ATF raid was too funny!😂
Ohne Ray wäre UA-cam nur noch die Hälfte Wert er ist einfach der Beste 😊
Ja wohl!
Bird thou never wert!
Sehr gut!
Parroting the door open chime made me smile. I'd almost forgotten the "Doot - De - Doo" of following the phone ringing in that "other" place.
“Taking it out in the wild” that’s hilarious Ray 😂 love the term Lizard lotion
Little tip for you Ray. On the BG cleaning bottle that you were using on the side opposite where the air connector and regulator is a little button you can push to vent the excess pressure left in the bottle after you disconnect the shop air supply. It's hard to spot it looks like part of the hinge for the hanger but it's actually the pressure release vent.
How dare you bring common sense into this video. Sad a tech doesn’t even know how to use a system they are trying to sell.
Yea but you have to be sad to read the manual.
Installation cracks on plugs would normally would be horizontal near the bottom because when you put the swivel on you push the top of the plug sideways and then it cracks across the bottom of the porcelain. Since these were longitudinal cracks, I suspect these are actually counterfeit plugs that just aren’t made right and when they got hot, the inside of the plug expanded in the porcelain and it cracked that porcelain. It’s the same thing you see in concrete when a rebar rusts and you get those long longitudinal cracks.
Yeah that’s what I was thinking bring it started trying to basically peel itself off it’s definitely a pre existing condition
@@MacRODesign55 I broke one plug 40 years ago by letting the socket go sideways with the swivel. I heard it crack but ignored it. An hour later I was replacing it.
The road runner did it...beep...beep
Owner probably bought them @ Wally Mart...LoL
@@wolfguardian8312 I got fake plugs from eBay in the early 2000s... Was pissed that I had to do that job again 😞
Sometime, it would be nice to have you show the cylinders with the bore scope prior to the cleaning procedure, and after, just to see any differences.
I agree and stated the same thing. I have seen the process a number of years ago before and after with no difference
Just fixed a cylinder 8 miss fire on a 5.4. Found the last place that did a tune up didn't replace spark plugs on cylinders 4 and 8
Good job pep boy's! Plus the 6 they did replace they put different plugs on each side of the engine.
Unbelievable! You can't trust a lot of these shops it seems.
For sure. @@ronlind1757
Cases like that his, I ask for the old parts back 😅
Just those extra little touches you do for your customers, Ray, makes you one of those one-of-a-kind mechanics. That nice battery terminal cleaning you did for your customer, is just totally commendable. It has me wishing I lived in Florida, so I could bring my vehicle to you, too.
Rainman, you should’ve bore scoped #8 piston again to show how well the cleaner worked, or didn’t work. Maybe next time. 😎
So as far as we know the customer paid for the so called carbon removal and it did nothing. There is a good reason to check the plug resistance.
I can’t remember what creator tested multiple cold air intakes and filters. The test showed that the K&N filters let more dirt through the media than the factory. They also found that most cold air kits allowed 40 or more degree warmer air than the factory boxes.
I would love to see that#8 piston after that cleaning procedure. My old mechanic used to use a similar system but he decided to do a looky loo before and after on one of the vehicles and did not see any difference. I would love to see if the products have changed and they actually work.
I second that suggestion
Immediately after might not be the right time to see how the product works, but perhaps a couple of hundred miles of engine time.
If the cleaning was instant or very fast, it could send big flakes and chunks into the exhaust part of the engine, and possibly clogging the catalyst mesh in the converter(s).
If the product assists in the slower breakdown of the deposits, it likely prevents causing damage.
I don't work in the field, so my statements have a lot of conditionals.
I really want to see #8 piston after cleaning with the genie in a bottle. I would guess you could put water in that mister and would clean it
One thing ive learned from my tuner, is if your hands get greasy/nasty, wipe it on the white of a plug and easily check it for cracks.
I have a Kia Cerato (Forte) with a 2l GDI engine and run a can of CRC GDI Valve Cleaner through the fuel system every 6 months. It seems to reallybwork in cleaning the carbon from the back of the valves but despite the instructions I would say the engine needs a longer heat sink for the carbon to devreleased from the valves.
When it happens it is like an old James Bond movie when a smoke screen is released from the rear of the car .
You can really feel the difference.
Ford part numbers @34:00... There is the catalog number, which for looking the part up in the system, then there is the Motorcraft number, which is the SP-548.
I worked at a Ford Dealership for a number of years in the parts department. The Motorcraft number is the number you go by. SP-548-X are platinum spark plugs.
Interesting that both cracked porcelains were on plugs against the firewall. What do you attribute that to? No swivel on the socket, maybe. Additional heat? Eristicat, below, suggests that these plugs may be counterfeit. If that's true, that could explain the verticle cracks. I've never seen that before. However I have seen them cracked around the base.
I have been missing every episode cause of all sorts of busy times 😢 glad you are posting, and happy holidays and Merry Christmas to you family;ray, and everyone else here.
Yours aswell 🌲
Good day ray, would really enjoy to see before and after using the carbon cleaner with a borescope. Would even prove the haters wrong… or prove you wrong but either way would love to see it!
Ed Zachary!
I have removed heads from engines after running a can of GM Top engine cleaner thru it on a hot engine and running 1/2 the can in then letting it sit 30 mins then run last 1/2 thru and test drive it like you stole it. . The intake runners and piston tops were exceptionally clean and any deposits left were soft wan would have clean up with injector spray and air movement after running the engine
Ray,
You may already know, but many do not, that first pots a dot of blue paint on top of the plugs on the assembly line to indicate original factory plug.
Nice to see you working on a 5.0 for a change
Cheers from Nova Scotia
Just love that you keep posting all these wonderful videos Ray! Have yourself a great day.
Ray you all right mam I wish you were here in atlanta we need people like you to keep cars and trucks running keep making these great videos😊😅😂😅
To save the doors on vehicles glue some pool noodles to the lift and all is good. Awesome video as always 🤟😎
Years ago (about 40) my dad picked up a 74 pinto for us kids to drive. It was in decent shape, very low mileage. A guy up the street got it when his aunt died. It ran very poorly so he did a tune up and replaced the timing belt. He got the timing 180 out.
We picked it up really cheap. After fixing the timing it ran great except it just completely lacked any speed ability. Did a compression check and all cylinders were equally low. Yes the 2l ford is not an interference model but that was what it was acting like. Appon pulling the exhaust we could see that the carbon build up on the valves was so bad it was interfering with them closing.
We knocked a bunch loose with a screwdriver. Then we set up the windshield wash pump with a turn signal relay and when the car was at operating temperature would turn that on and let it roll.
After a month we pulled the manifolds and looked at the progress. Both intake and exhaust were very clean.
A little water vapor and some heat does amazing things.
Never question Ford's parts inventory system. Even they don't understand it. Just remember to keep all original parts for direct comparison, and pray the larger ones still have their paper ID tags from the factory still attached, or you may need a wizard to determine which replacement part you want.
Ford are equal parts a brilliant and terrible company!
Amazing work to change Spark Plug of Ford
Ray I think your videos have gotten much better and more interesting since you opened your own place. More interesting and detailed repairs. Like some of the in depth diagnosing you do that no other person on the planet earth would do, for example the crappy rebuilt engine install you did for the warranty claim. Man I wish I had someone like you here in CT. How great would it be if we could all see a video of the repairs done to our cars. Would definitely weed out the bad apples. Looking forward to more of the same. 👍
Counterfiet parts are great....keeps you guys in business...ALWAYS make sure you're getting genuine parts!
Ooh, I was guessing that it may be counterfeit since more than one porcelain cracks 😮
Had a fake set of nippoDenso plugs for my Nissan... I hated to do the job again after founding out later on and this was during the early 2000s when counterfeit just started to invade eBay and Amazon
Thanks China…
They look like aftermarket (Duralast) coils. Did you happen to mention if they were changed already? I know you thought the plugs might of been changed. You have links for the cleaner you put in the car?
You close at 5? An independent operator NEVER CLOSES!😂
Nice close up on the camera work! Excelente!
Merry Christmas for the Rainman family!
“Taking it out in the wild” that’s hilarious Ray 😂
Recently changed my spark plugs on my 2012 F150 w/ the 5.0 Coyote. Hate those red locking tabs on the coils. Had to wire one in place.
Welcoming back!
look at the top of the plug. most fords have the tops painted. usually white or an odd sorta green from the factory.
😆 you change them in a set, but every time I take our 2016 work truck to the shop for a misfire they just do the one cylinder.
Would be interesting to see a before and after inspection of that valve cleaning procedure. Wonder how much difference it actually makes
I have seen other UA-cam channels show before and after videos after this type of cleaning. Not using the BG product but the same process. They were concentrating on the back of the valves because that's where the worst build up is on DI engines. There was a difference but the results were not what I would call clean. There is a concern for chunks of carbon breaking off with this type of service on higher mileage vehicles. I would personally not do it unless it has been part of the maintenance service since theengine was new, say every 35 or 40k miles. For DI engines a manual or walnut blasting service will get the valves nearly as clean as new. Of course those are much more involved and invasive services and, as such, considerably more expensive.
We used boiling water to remove the crusty on the battery 40 years ago.Sam in Northern Ireland 🎉😊
100 proof?
Confirmed still works.
Adding a bit of baking soda as optional to neutralize the acid as well😅
Tell Dave I once had four brand new AC Delco Spark Plug boxes, every plug with a loose center electrode!
Would have been interesting to see the top of the piston again after treatment.
Back in the day we used to clean battery terminals with Coca Cola, followed with a generous coating of Vaseline. Worked just fine.
Other just use hot water and maybe some baking soda as an option to neutralize the acid 😅
We cleaned steel tables with strong black coffee.
@@wayneessar7489 weird hack I guess.... Off to Google to check it out, 😂!
I didn’t even think a spark plug could break like the one Dave found!
Vanilla Frappuccino...my favorite...I am totally hooked on them!
Ray, next time, I think it would be pretty cool for you to scope the cylinder after you use the lizzard lotion
I have to do the water pump on my F550 today. Looks like a complete nightmare! 6.7 Power Stroke. You can't even see it from up top.
Comment is about Other shows. Other tools, I have had Metrinch tool kit. IT has all tools which only hits the flat side of the nut, or bolt.Had to get when I had a broken spark plug inFord E150 w/ 300in 6. Great tool. I see you have trouble at times with bad nuts. This works.
I had a blue badge dealership do this to my no1 spark plug on my 1500k 2L mk 2 escort on its 1st service plus other damage to ignition system a long time ago.They could not even find the problems.Fixed it myself.
Proud owner of a VW CC 2014 2.0L DSG, 18 moths ago i changed my coil and spark plug and the tip of my coil were full of oil...this engine did'nt have a gasket but a head cover/valve cover seal...so I poured a bottle of AT 205 in the oil. Last week changed my spark plug and surprise surprise no more oil on the tip of the coil and spark plug (will reseal at the timing chain job). BTW amazing transmission the DSG 0-60 in 4 sec, changed the original suspension for Bilstein B-12 wich I highly recommand.
Hi Ray awesome video learning every day from your channel and as always you and you’re families be safe 🇺🇸🇺🇸
Your part number confusion was due to the PACK of multiple plugs having one part number and the INDIVIDUAL plugs having another number.
Wow! An IV drip for engines!!! Fascinating! Well, maybe it's an IV spray instead!
Odd that two plugs had cracks running down them. Possible counterfeit plugs from the internet shopping mall?
Great Video!!!
You mentioned how clean the coils look. Those plug wells seal up suprsingly well. My engine got a nasty, silty mud bath, but everything below the coil packs was factory clean.
21:06 it's one of those new variable sparking devices 😂😂
Ray heating your wire connectors with a heat gun helps alot on removal as it does with hoses.
@1:45 When is a door not a door?? When it is AJAR!!!🤣🤣🤣🤣 Now I'll continue watching
Wow! that tone drive me nuts!
Thanks for another great video Ray!
in old school we used a glass of water to do that cleaning in combustion chamber same procedure.
get dome pool noodle's put on uprights of lift no more dents or scratches :)
45:38 press the left fitting to relief pressure
I like how you always get to the problem. But this one was really quick. Ha. We had a 1991 Cougar and the last plug on the passenger side did that about every 17,000.00 miles. Dealer new about it but passed the warranty. That was the 3.8 V-6 or 3.6 ? That was a knuckle busting plug to put in.
Nothing like having a driver going down the road beside you holding a camera while they’re simultaneously on their diagnostic device
Run 2 Platinum Fuel Svc through that bad boy. I flipped a 18 XLT 5.0….Soooo much smoother after about a week. Did exactly what it was supposed to do.
1:00:58 honestly, i fell asleep after you pulled the broken #8 spark plug.
But the finish full throttle test drive was exciting.!
Very nice scheduled maintainance video, done properly,,, :-)
New camera? That zoom looked cool
Ray, @60mins,I believe the Ford Coyote 5.0 engine, the recommended torque for spark plugs, is 15 lb-ft. Love your videos!
Full hour, love it.
I have a 5.0 Coyote on my '93 F150 XLT 4x4. It has to be cyl 8 or 4 because the Ford Gods deem it so. That or cyl 4. The difficulty level on 4 is akin to the tasks of Heracles. Cyl 8 is just a bonus round.
49:15 LOL quick change of plans there, not connected to the seat.
FYI for all 2019 (maybe other years), 5.0 Coyote owners. On my F150 4x4 - When starting out on a cold engine in cold weather and accelerating moderately after tranny upshifts (mildly lugging) - Do you have engine rattle? (Cam phaser) Occurs for about the first mile only.
Noticed this after the colder weather come on. Always have my dealer change the oil 2-3,000 miles, depending on usage.
Being concerned I mentioned this to my service manager (tiny dealership), several times. Always same answer, no TSBs, they almost all do it. Being a retired mechanic, I told him I was concerned about it.
Around the 20,000 oil change I mentioned to him that the engine is burning about 1 quart every 1000 miles. He then got interested. Seems there is a TSB concerning this engine burning too much oil! He had to look a bit to find it.
The TSB's main fix was a programming change to the PCV vacuum control as it was allowing too high a vacuum under de-accel conditions while at higher speeds.
Now it's interesting - That re-program FIXED the cam phaser rattle when cold! Seems to have fixed the hi-consumption.
Hope this helps someone.
I run mid grade gas every few tanks and no more rattle. Use about a qt of oil every 5,000 miles.
Yes sir
Love your videos man. What I can see through the camera those were carbon tracks and not cracks. The result is the same, it needs plugs in probably coil boots. Often if the coil boot has a carbon track already in it, The new plugs will end up with carbon tracks in the same locations as the previous ones.
The multitude of top end and engine cleaners on the market today never ceases to amaze me. Seems like everyone has something and of course theirs is the best. Takes me back to the 50's when we just used water and a hot engine. Like others have said i too would like to see before and after scope images of the cylinders and valves. Wonder how all the miracle cleaners would stack up against plain old water.
Didn't popular mechanics show a set up that used some dish soap in water on a vacuum line ?
@@davidhamm5626 I don't know, never saw that. But it was common in the 1950's we would rev the engine and drip water into the carb. Basically steam cleaning the cylinders. In the late 40's and early 50's some cars even came with water injection. We used to put alcohol or ether in the water tank.
@@StevenDaugherty-uo5cs Okay, I think that is what I had seem, thanks for getitng me straight on it.
Yep they did. We also had water injection kits for early turbo systems. Personal I always used GM Top engine cleaner. It was used on carburetor engines as well and worked great on port and direct injected engines.
If it's a Coyote, it must be an ACME. Watch out for fake tunnels.
Will E coyote super genius!
:)
That’s funny. That’s when Saturday had cartoons
The Boss 302 had the Roadrunner variant
In my Gen 1 coyote the Cylinders 7 and 4 had issues in the valve train... Bent parts... Check the heads...
rayman. its litterally easier to throw a moving blanket over the front of the engine bay and crawl right into the underhood area. those f-150's are TALL
Hey Ray Ray just thinking you may want to put some rubber pads on the lift columns so the doors do not hit metal to metal and possibly scratch the doors. Just a thought. ***********
A few weeks ago he showed the factory-mounted rubber pads on the post of at least one of the lifts. I assumed they all had them. Maybe it was just on the newest (central) one.
@jasondgandrew320 thanks Jason I have watched all of his videos for a long time but must have missed that part. I always get nervous when he opens the doors, and the darn columns are right there. If you were a little heavy set, that opening could be a challenge. Have a good one.
@@toddrees1 Thanks Todd. Have a magical holiday season yourself.😁
113th! GOOD THURSDAY MORNING RAY and the wife unit. And never forgetting the new employees, Good Thursday morning! Roger in Pierre South Dakota
RE: Coils, "just because they're new, don't mean they're good'"
-- Eric O.--
The number 4 cylinder spark plug also looked like the top was cracked and broken. Looked like some porcelain was missing from it
Carbon buildup on back of intake valve is more of a problem then buildup in cylinders. We call it induction cleaning and should be done every 30-40K miles. Simple cheap service that will make your engine idle smoother and help all around driveability
Lovely maintenance repair and great video Ray 😊👍
I've never seen a spark plug split the length of the porcelain, great video, educational, something to look for now.
Great video Ray.
OBD. " our best Dave " !
Just in time for my lunch break. Thanks Ray!
I know Ray is against anti seize compound on the spark plugs... Previous service had it on the plug threads when he was pulling the old ones out
Yeah, seems plugs were changed already probably by the 100,000 mile mark.
But wow, porcelain cracks on more than one plug??? Were they counterfeit?😮
I would have also presoak #8 cylinder directly with some carbon cleaner while waiting on the parts delivery
That scope is a great tool while waiting for the parts to see that carbon buildup on #8😅
Nice video ray!!! Thanks
the reason why the spark plug package has 4 part numbers as far as i am aware is
1 number for the spark plug model (on spark plug, on box)
1 number for spark plug model + gap (on box)
1 number for spark plug model + gap single pack (on box)
1 number for spark plug model + gap 4 pack (on box)
also about that spray canister disconnect the shop air wait till the pressure is out then close the out valve and you will always be ready to add new fluid