Cleft Graft on Figs
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- This is a graft I've used for many other species very extensively and have found it to work very well on figs also.
This type of graft is typically best suited for use when the scion is from about 33% to 75% of the diameter of the rootstock. Rootstock does not need to be actively growing when performed but it should not be dormant either. I will usually graft in-ground trees in the spring but will sometimes graft in summer, if the need arises, as long as the weather at the time is not excessively hot. When I get ready to graft and prune off the top of the rootstock, I will watch for sap flow for a few minutes. If there is a lot of white latex sap flowing I will make some horizontal cuts through the bark a few inches below the graft area to let the sap flow from these cuts and then wait for 15-30 minutes before grafting.
Thank you for another very helpful video.
Nice video Harvey. Can't wait to try it!
Damm this video is 5 years old that tree 🌲 would be 5 meters tall Damm nice work ♥️🌲♥️
Fantastic video Harvey, Thanks so much!
You are so good with figs you should write a book 📖 about your figs where they from .the history
What do you look for in rootstock when you are grafting? In particular, is there a particular variety of fig tree that is a better candidate to be the rootstock? I live in SE Texas where humidity and heavy rains can become problematic, should I use rootstock from trees that do grow very well in my area like Brown Turkey and Celeste? Love your videos! So much to learn, but I've been "bitten" by the fig bug for sure!
For the last few years I have mostly been using DFIC 0023, the Palmata Hybrid, as it is very vigorous and there may be a chance that it is immune to FMV because of the palmata genetics. Other varieties can work fine, just any tree that is vigorous will do. I've used Brown Turkey for many grafts, including our somewhat famous Black Madeira tree that has been in numerous videos.
hi very good video. pleas when you make video let us know the date of grafting the month weather for useful
Hi Harvey
Have you ever experimented with grafting on a double or triple rootstock. It is technique is becoming popular in Asia for grafting mango trees that are slow growers or bear fruit Biennial. I wonder how this will work on some fig varieties.
No, I don't really know how that would work in our climate where the cool weather from fall to spring greatly limits fruit production anyways. Black Madeira has a lot of unripened fruit on our grafted tree and I suspect it would keep fruiting for many more months if it were not for our winter weather.
Nice video
Thanks for watching and good luck with grafting.
Nice graft, but why in the world would you graft a fig besides wanting to combine several varieties into one?
I do have a couple of multi-grafted trees but the main reasons I graft figs are (1) Grafting a low vigor variety onto one that is vigorous to get a more vigorous tree and (2) Grafting a new to me fig variety onto established rootstock to get the chance to evaluate it's fruit sooner. Some people also graft onto a rootstock that exhibits nematode resistance. I have some examples in this video: ua-cam.com/video/zH87q6eHSSE/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching
Excellent. Will be trying this. Was wondering how the vigor of the root stock and scion effect the grafted tree. For example I have RDB and O'Rourke that are very vigorous here, so I can propagate lots of plants from them to graft to. Now if I graft a less vigorous fig to that, e.g. for me a VDB or Honey, will the resultant plant have more vigor than a normal VDB or Honey.
Yes
Thank you for the video, when is the best time to do a graft on figs? Can I do it in the middle of July? I am located in PA
Yes, it's best if temperatures are not too hot. Ideally 70-85F, but I've grafted in lowers 90s okay.
Hello Harley great Video , just a question when do you Harvest the scion ? just Prior to the grafting or is it a dormant one which you do Harvest early in the fridge ?
I usually graft a dormant cutting onto an actively growing rootstock. This might be done in winter right after I prune cuttings or they can be stored for several months in a refrigerator. Sometimes I'll acquire a new variety as a cutting that is not dormant but which has buds that have not pushed yet. I will prune those as quickly as possible after pruning it.
very professional thanks so much i do grafting on apple and cherry trees but never tried the figs so i will try as you said thx again and greetings from Luxemburg europe
What time of year does this happen, what will you wash off if there is milky juice, and what kind of figs did you show at the very end of the video? Thank you.
The rootstock should be in a growing stage when grafted. I usually use dormant scions for grafting, however. I mostly graft outdoor trees in spring but will sometimes will graft in summer if weather conditions at the time are not exceedingly hot. I sometimes have rootstock trees in pots in my heated shop under grow lights and have grafted those in the winter.
In some of my videos I have addressed reducing sap flow. When I first cut the tree to prepare for grafting I watch for a bit to see if I see heavy sap flow. If this is present, I will make some horizontal cuts a few inches below the area I plan to graft to let the sap flow from those areas and then wait for 15-30 minutes before grafting.
Thank you very much.
Would this be put in the sun or kept in shade/partial sun? thanks
This is largely dependent on weather. During cooler weather, up to maybe 75-80F, full sun would be best but in warmer weather semi-shade would help. Although I can't find specific information to figs, callusing of the graft union is probably slower below 70F and above 85F (surface temperature).
Nice Video! Is there any particular moon phase that is better for grafting?
I personally do not follow moon phases for any of my gardening/farming activities and I have good results.
Figaholics Thanks for the answer!
have you tried grafting multiple varieties to one fig tree (like multiple mango varieties to single large mango tree)
Yes, I've done it a little but hope to one day start a large specimen tree with up to 100 varieties on it. Our farm is in an area subject to flood risk and I would like to put together a tree in a huge pot that I could take with me if we flood some day.
Hi Figaholics. I want to know, which plant did you graft on figs ? If you answer me I'll be glad.
I graft many other varieties of figs onto vigorous fig rootstock. I don't recall the particular variety that was grafted for this video but it's probably a variety that is does not grow vigorously on its own roots.
Cabbar Özçelik, Brown Turkey and Desert King are both vigorus and great choices for a rootstock and are commonly available.
At what time of the year do you do this?
We usually graft in the spring but any time temperatures are relatively mild (daytime temps of 70F-85F) is fine.
Iam from india.is it possible to graft figs in open sun
Yes, I have done this many times in the spring, mostly soon after figs start pushing new growth.
Which fig is good for grafting and which fig has good roots?
+Kingpint88 Pretty much any variety is fine to be used for grafting, but I suggest ones that you like the fruit of. Also, most fig varieties grow well on their own roots and show good vigor so any of those should make good rootstock.
Thank you
Dear Harvey. How reasonable is the use of such a long stock? I suppose, against the background of a severe shortage of vaccine material, is it better to use one-eyed vaccinations?
There seems to be some translation error here, I imagine that your use of use of words vaccine and vaccinations is meant to mean scions. If I have a good supply of scions I will graft two or three buds, especially if using the tip of a branch with buds I'm not sure are mature enough. For something very scarce, I use only one bud per graft.
@@Figaholics
Yes you are right. What to do - I do not have enough English (studied German). I have to use online translators.
I got it.
If we have one black man with three buds - how justified is its use with one-eyed cuttings by means of a vaccination splint? Let's do three eye vaccinations (a piece of wood with one kidney). How much does it depend on the time of vaccination?
PS I ask you to consider that vaccination is not a medical term, but as you all understand, the connection of a plant organism with others.
@@user-tr3ow4gs3q Yes, I think the grafting of plant material with one eye (bud) onto rootstock is very practical, I have done it many times with high success rate. This is what I have done for the most rare varieties to help expand as soon as possible.
@@Figaholics Thanks a lot, dear. But let me say that I always thought that grafting with one “eye” (or a handle with one kidney) is always more practical than a graft with 3 or more kidneys. If done carefully, hygienically and on time (according to the growing season) and with a certain level of qualification, then the survival rate of any vaccination is very high.
I would like to note that it is better to make a one-eyed budding three times on one stock than to vaccinate a split with a handle with three eyes.
I understand that you share your experience in relation to this situation, but different people may have different questions in discussions. I believe that my comment is useful to someone.
Excuse for troubling.
@@user-tr3ow4gs3q Okay, what you are referring to is called "budding" such as "T-budding". Yes, that works well if the rootstock is large enough and the bark slips (pulls away from wood) easily. Grafting with one bud of the various grafting methods I discuss here work well even if bark does not slip and works well for smaller diameter rootstock. It's also a matter of personal preference...my fingers are fat and getting less flexible as I get older and harder to handle small things like buds.
Please let us end the discussion here as this is getting off the topic of this particular video. Thanks.