Whip and Tongue Graft on Figs
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- Whip and tongue grafts are commonly used in many species and I've found them to work well on figs as well.
Ideally, the scion and rootstock should be the same diameter. I will sometimes use this graft when the scion is down to about 80% of the dimater of the rootstock. This can be accomplished by cutting not as deep into the rootstock, carefully matching the width of the scion.
I bought two cuttings from Harvey last year - one was a Black Madeira and it rooted successfully - THANKS HARVEY! Keep up the good work!
Thank you Harvey for sharing your experience with us.
I watched this video again, as well as your others Harvey. I finally digested the concepts; these are the best I have found, thank you!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you Sir
oh yea, this is probably what i ve been talking about 😅👍🏻 maybe it didn’t work because i did this in summer? Or used too young twigs on older twigs?
Would you only do this graft or others in the close season and early spring with 1 yr scion wood.
Is it possible to use this years growth as scion in grafting say in June ///// or is it to soft plus young
I have a lot of Brown Turkey and Texas Everbearing figs and am wondering what type or name do you suggest I use your technique of grafting onto my fig trees?
Great video Harvey. I’m just learning how to do this. I see Jaime in his videos, using primarily apical bud scion for his whip and tongue grafts. You demonstrated using a short piece of scion with only two buds. Can you used longer sticks with three or more buds? Thank you friend.
Jaime is a great grafter but there is no benefit that I've ever seen in using apical bud scions. In commercial grafting, they are rarely used because there aren't enough to supply demand. If buds are good, two buds in a scion are plenty. I will sometimes graft with more but if I have enough rootstock I prefer making more grafts. I recently paid $200 for a cutting and made six grafts with it (all cleft, in this case, due to rootstock being much thicker than scion) and the piece with the apical bud had another bud and everything else one bud. Four out of six were successful, including the one with the apical bud, though the apical bud hasn't pushed yet but the one below it has. I've done this several times with scarce varieties.
Thanks for watching Leon, hope you are doing well!
@@Figaholics Thank you this really helps. Take care. Leon
Would it make more sense to make the graft, then cut off what you want? That way you are working with a larger piece.
In my opinion, there is too much risk of moving the scion if you prune it after it's been put in place and secured. With some very short scions of an inch or so I have cut it just before inserting/attaching.
A while ago, I got a winter hardy fig from a friend's yard. Don't know the variety so I call it Roberta after his wife. I'n in RI, zone 7.
If I graft a non cold hardy fig to it, do you think it will survive winters like they do with grapes?
If your non-hardy fig is in a pot, I would suggest waiting until your graft has grown a couple of feet and plant it 8-12" deeper than it was in the pot so that the rootstock is well below the surface.
How can I buy fig fruits, where do u guys send them for sale?
At the present time our fruits are being sold at Bi-Rite in San Francisco (both locations) and Corti Brothers in Sacramento. That is all we can handle.
It looks like there is a rubber band on the graft?
+ricshaw805 Yes, see starting at 5:26 and at 6:00 "try not to cover bud with rubber band". This is the product I use but any rubber band will be adequate - www.amleo.com/rubber-strips-for-budding-and-grafting-8x38x020-guage/p/838RS/
I know you have many many people buying cuttings when they go for sell I need CDD mutant cuttings 2 if you can keep 2 for me I’m trying to buy for my neighbor his and old men put he doesn’t know how to buy them try to help me. thanks
My tree has not produced ripe fruit yet so I'm not yet selling cuttings of this variety. Please make contact via email from my Figaholics web site for follow-up.
In,what month it happens, and why you don't lubricate exposed surfaces? Thank you
The graft may be made any month as long as your rootstock is in a growth stage. I don't know if I understand your question about lubricating surfaces. The cut surfaces must be kept free of contamination so that cambium layers will match and join together. The bark surfaces are covered with film.
Thank you very much for the video, very informative and interesting, really do not understand the English language )).
We have an English saying: "A picture tells a thousand words". Maybe video tells 5,000 words? :)
I agree with you with the proverb, and we say: ,,Better to see once than to hear a thousand times" )). Sorry, but you don't use the garden thief, for reliability, vaccinations, prevention of access of air inside the vaccinations and excessive drying out of the surface for example?
See video at 4:12 and 6:55 with wax/plastic film used to wrap scion and graft union. My grafting knife and clippers are sprayed with isopropyl alcohol to disinfect, although even when I forget I do not see problems.
When is the best time to do a graft? I'm in zone 5. Thx.
I assume you let your trees go dormant and protect from cold winter weather somehow. Even so, there isn't enough time for you to graft at this time of year and get lignified wood that can withstand even sheltered winter conditions so I suggest grafting in the spring after leaves begin emerging or maybe a month later so that sap flow has slowed down.
Growing figs for the first year. My BT is growing very well, my Chicago hardy obtained later is going well. I did pinch the new growth to get more branching. lIll, with your suggestion ,wait till spring to graft a scion from the Chicago hardy to the BT. I plan to stor them wrapped in burlap in my shed in a dark spot so they'll go dormant. Thanks for your suggestions! It's very appreciated!