Yeah… Thanks for your honesty. I was almost all In on Cali bamboo, but they are just way too many reviews of this type of scratching. For a family, or pets… I just can’t imagine going with anything other than a Scratch resistant product.
Really appreciate your feedback and honesty. I have 2 questions: 1. How did you decide what direction to lay the planks, did you lay them all the same? 2. Is there an attached padding on the back?
For laying the planks, one recommendation I've heard is that you want the planks laying straight as you open the front door to make the room look larger. But realistically you should consider your layout. What direction will make it easiest and prevent you from working backwards (if you are doing more than one room). We choose what would be easiest to avoid using transition strips and allow the flooring to flow into each room. The Cali Vinyl Pro line that I used did not have an attached padding, so I used the calicomplete underlayment. But they now have some lines with the padding attached which would be a lot easier.
Great video! And good job on your install. I’m getting ready to install some Cali vinyl plank flooring also. I really like the idea of flowing between rooms without transition molding. I’m curious how you made the plank connections through a doorway with the pieces having to slide beneath the undercut door jamb. I’m racking my brain trying to figure out the best way to do it. Once that piece is under the jamb, it almost seems impossible to click/lock it to the next piece, since you normally have to angle it in first. Not sure if that makes sense, but if you have any advice on that specifically, I’d sure appreciate it!
Oh yeah, I know exactly what you are talking about. By far the most difficult pieces to get in there. Basically, you get it as close as you can and it requires a whole bunch of pounding with your rubber mallet and pull bar if you can get it in there. That's the short answer. You really end up having to force the pieces together. I had to do about 7 door jams this way and they all worked out. But it takes time and force. The cali vinyl pro is quite resilient and didn't show any issues from this.
@@poodledad That’s about what I expected! I’m going to give it the old college try. Cali support recommends the transition strips. I know that is easier… but the flowing style just makes for such a clean look. Many thanks for the advice, it is much appreciated!
It does bend. But you really would't want to install it somewhere that you need it to bend. If your subfloor isn't level you will have issues getting each plank to connect. I had to use a self-leveling product in a few spots to level the subfloor.
Your video is very helpful . You did very nice job on your floor . I have bathroom already vinyl sheet on the floor . Can I put Cali vinyl on top the exiting vinyl ? .
If it was perfectly flat/level then I think you could. I pulled the sheet vinyl off in our bathrooms to be sure I could adequately prepare the subfloor. It's more work but in the end the results were very good. In my master bathroom in which the vinyl floor was 40 years old, I found some damaged subfloor that needed to be replaced.
Is that a Charlie Brown Christmas tree in the background? (just kidding) Looks great and thanks for the tips on making sure the floors are completely flat.
Thank you, Jason. I am currently installing Cali Vinyl Saddlewood in my 45 sq ft kitchen. Can you tell me what you did with the screwdriver to get the ends of the boards to click? I am seeing gray lines (gaps) and need help in making the planks meet. Thank you.
there was a little black plastic piece on the short edges that I had to use a screw driver to push it back in the gap. It was sticking out too far and wouldn't allow the short edges to connect. I think I had a picture in the video when I explained that part. It was quite annoying.
With the underlayment it was somewhere between $4,000-$5,000. So, compared to the quotes I was getting to have it installed, doing it myself saved around $8,000.
Great info. Question on how you transitioned to areas where you were on the opposite side of the lip? My room configuration appears that I will have to start and do most of a room and then work into a hallway but to connect the rows I will need to some how connect the boards on the right hand side instead of the left. Wondering if there was a trick you figured out.
I did have to do that at two points during my install. It's easier to work the row in the wrong direction than if you have to work backwards into another room (which I had to do in a few closets). So, I don't think there was any trick that I can recall to make it work. When you set your plank in the long edge you can use the tapping block to tap it under the short side and then use your hand to smack it in place. You will be able to tell if it isn't fully seated and you can continue with the tapping block. The tapping block is your best friend!
Since you used no transition strips for the entire area, did you end up having to use any very thin boards(like one inch or less) to finish a row. Or did you actually pre- calculate all the measurements to avoid that situation?
Hi, Have you use their T molding or stairs nose or treads? If yes do they have the same finish scratch protection as the flat pieces. I was in floor and decor looking at their offerings but the T molding or stairs nose pieces don’t have the same finish layer for scratch protection. Thanks.
I do have both the T-mold and the stair nose installed. They do seem to have a different finish as they are not limestone like the actual flooring, but primarily plastic. I haven't had any issues with them, though install the stair nose was a bit of an ordeal. It's designed to have you install the stair nose first, and then start your next row of flooring from the nose, which did not work for my layout so I had to improvise. T-mold was very easy to install but does feel a bit floaty when you step on it. Part of the reason that I wanted to do as few transitions as possible.
Jason Johnston thanks, I been looking at quite a few and with your description it seem this one is the same as that they only have the color plastic and no wear layer above for the moldings. I’m not sure how is gonna look using LVP with the embossed register and then the stairs nose piece won’t have it. I guess I have to keep looking to see what I end up with.
It came out to around $3.75 per square foot which includes the underlayment. We did about 1,300 square feet. Installing myself saved about $3,000 from some of the install quotes I received.
I bought it from Lowes. A few nice things about Lowes, they gave me a discount just for asking, something around 8% off, and they allow you to return unopened boxes. I think if you buy direct from Cali Bamboo you can only return 4 boxes or more. I have a Lowes that is close so it made it a good option to buy locally. Now maybe you can haggle with Cali Bamboo on the phone for a better price. I actually tried to do that, but they wouldn't answer the phone the morning I called.
STAY AWAY!!! DO NOT BUY CALIBAMBOO. THE LOCKING MECHANISM IS VERY FRAGILE. I would not recommend calibamboo at all!!!! It was a nightmare to install and it's a cheap product even though I spent a fortune on my 3,000 Sq ft home.
oh dang, which product line was it? I found the original cali vinyl pro to be great, but I did try another line with the pad already installed and the locking mechanism was really bad like you mentioned.
@@alwaysinsearch Yes, i tried that and it was terrible. Immediately returned it and purchased the original cali vinyl pro line without the pad. That stuff is great.
@@poodledad How do you purchase the Cali LVP without the pad on Lowe’s? I’m interested in the Sandbar Oak but I can’t find one without the attached pad.
Currently installing some Cali flooring yesterday and today. I will make sure to take care if it and treat it well.
Good luck!
Fantastic information! Sounds like you ran into a little bit of everything. Floors look great!
Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Was really curious as to the scratch proof claim of vinyl and your video was straight up about it.
Yes, I think you are better off if you go with a lighter color than we did. Glad it was helpful.
Yeah… Thanks for your honesty. I was almost all In on Cali bamboo, but they are just way too many reviews of this type of scratching.
For a family, or pets… I just can’t imagine going with anything other than a Scratch resistant product.
Thanks for the review Jason, this video is full of some great information!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the video. Just received 1100sqft of the pine variation.
Awesome, love to hear how the install and final look turns out.
Really appreciate your feedback and honesty. I have 2 questions:
1. How did you decide what direction to lay the planks, did you lay them all the same?
2. Is there an attached padding on the back?
For laying the planks, one recommendation I've heard is that you want the planks laying straight as you open the front door to make the room look larger. But realistically you should consider your layout. What direction will make it easiest and prevent you from working backwards (if you are doing more than one room). We choose what would be easiest to avoid using transition strips and allow the flooring to flow into each room. The Cali Vinyl Pro line that I used did not have an attached padding, so I used the calicomplete underlayment. But they now have some lines with the padding attached which would be a lot easier.
Sold!! Great review!! I’m going to purchase the Cali longboard oak!!
Awesome, did u get it?
Thank you for posting this! Super helpful for me, and easy to understand. The dancing 💃🏻 comment was pretty hilarious! New sub here!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! And good job on your install. I’m getting ready to install some Cali vinyl plank flooring also. I really like the idea of flowing between rooms without transition molding. I’m curious how you made the plank connections through a doorway with the pieces having to slide beneath the undercut door jamb. I’m racking my brain trying to figure out the best way to do it. Once that piece is under the jamb, it almost seems impossible to click/lock it to the next piece, since you normally have to angle it in first. Not sure if that makes sense, but if you have any advice on that specifically, I’d sure appreciate it!
Oh yeah, I know exactly what you are talking about. By far the most difficult pieces to get in there. Basically, you get it as close as you can and it requires a whole bunch of pounding with your rubber mallet and pull bar if you can get it in there. That's the short answer. You really end up having to force the pieces together. I had to do about 7 door jams this way and they all worked out. But it takes time and force. The cali vinyl pro is quite resilient and didn't show any issues from this.
@@poodledad That’s about what I expected! I’m going to give it the old college try. Cali support recommends the transition strips. I know that is easier… but the flowing style just makes for such a clean look. Many thanks for the advice, it is much appreciated!
@@poodledad i have a question how much did you pay per square foot?
Does the flooring bend? Most vinyl is flexible. I'm looking for some flexibility but not much like cheaper options offer
It does bend. But you really would't want to install it somewhere that you need it to bend. If your subfloor isn't level you will have issues getting each plank to connect. I had to use a self-leveling product in a few spots to level the subfloor.
Your video is very helpful . You did very nice job on your floor . I have bathroom already vinyl sheet on the floor . Can I put Cali vinyl on top the exiting vinyl ? .
If it was perfectly flat/level then I think you could. I pulled the sheet vinyl off in our bathrooms to be sure I could adequately prepare the subfloor. It's more work but in the end the results were very good. In my master bathroom in which the vinyl floor was 40 years old, I found some damaged subfloor that needed to be replaced.
Is that a Charlie Brown Christmas tree in the background? (just kidding) Looks great and thanks for the tips on making sure the floors are completely flat.
😂 Thanks
Thank you, Jason. I am currently installing Cali Vinyl Saddlewood in my 45 sq ft kitchen. Can you tell me what you did with the screwdriver to get the ends of the boards to click? I am seeing gray lines (gaps) and need help in making the planks meet. Thank you.
there was a little black plastic piece on the short edges that I had to use a screw driver to push it back in the gap. It was sticking out too far and wouldn't allow the short edges to connect. I think I had a picture in the video when I explained that part. It was quite annoying.
Did you remove all your baseboards? If so, did you replace them with new baseboards? Also did you do a quarter-round?
Yes, I removed all the baseboards. We were also painting during the project so it makes it easier to paint. We used quarter-round where necessary.
Great Review, very informative.
Glad it was helpful!
Jason, how much did it cost you for 1400 sq ft installation?
With the underlayment it was somewhere between $4,000-$5,000. So, compared to the quotes I was getting to have it installed, doing it myself saved around $8,000.
Great info. Question on how you transitioned to areas where you were on the opposite side of the lip? My room configuration appears that I will have to start and do most of a room and then work into a hallway but to connect the rows I will need to some how connect the boards on the right hand side instead of the left. Wondering if there was a trick you figured out.
I did have to do that at two points during my install. It's easier to work the row in the wrong direction than if you have to work backwards into another room (which I had to do in a few closets). So, I don't think there was any trick that I can recall to make it work. When you set your plank in the long edge you can use the tapping block to tap it under the short side and then use your hand to smack it in place. You will be able to tell if it isn't fully seated and you can continue with the tapping block. The tapping block is your best friend!
Since you used no transition strips for the entire area, did you end up having to use any very thin boards(like one inch or less) to finish a row. Or did you actually pre- calculate all the measurements to avoid that situation?
Thankfully i didn't run into that, but yes you need to pre-measure to make sure your last row will be at least 3 inches.
Found this brand at RiteRug, cheaper than Coretec and others.
3.70/sqft so I'm hoping it's going in our basement finishing.
awesome, what color did you choose? let me know how it turns out.
@@poodledad so far we're looking at Cali Longboard Island Maple.
I'll definitely post a post project video to show.
Hi,
Have you use their T molding or stairs nose or treads?
If yes do they have the same finish scratch protection as the flat pieces.
I was in floor and decor looking at their offerings but the T molding or stairs nose pieces don’t have the same finish layer for scratch protection.
Thanks.
I do have both the T-mold and the stair nose installed. They do seem to have a different finish as they are not limestone like the actual flooring, but primarily plastic. I haven't had any issues with them, though install the stair nose was a bit of an ordeal. It's designed to have you install the stair nose first, and then start your next row of flooring from the nose, which did not work for my layout so I had to improvise. T-mold was very easy to install but does feel a bit floaty when you step on it. Part of the reason that I wanted to do as few transitions as possible.
Jason Johnston thanks,
I been looking at quite a few and with your description it seem this one is the same as that they only have the color plastic and no wear layer above for the moldings.
I’m not sure how is gonna look using LVP with the embossed register and then the stairs nose piece won’t have it.
I guess I have to keep looking to see what I end up with.
What self leveler product did you use?
Made by Mapei and sold at lowes. It's a powder that you mix.
What color/name is the flooring you installed??
Cali Vinyl Pro Classic Acacia
Did you go with a 1/4 inch gap all around the rooms?
Yes, you can buy plastic spacers to put against the wall, or make your own by trimming some wood into small pieces.
It has a 50 year warranty under residential use.... did you file claim?
No, I didn't.
Did you put down a underlayment?
Yes, the Calicomplete underlayment
Is it required?
A gullotine cutter is a FAR better option for installation. No dust, clean cuts.
Oh great suggestion, thanks
How much did it cost?
It came out to around $3.75 per square foot which includes the underlayment. We did about 1,300 square feet. Installing myself saved about $3,000 from some of the install quotes I received.
@@poodledad Did you buy the product from the Cali Bamboo website? I'm trying to find the best pricing.
I bought it from Lowes. A few nice things about Lowes, they gave me a discount just for asking, something around 8% off, and they allow you to return unopened boxes. I think if you buy direct from Cali Bamboo you can only return 4 boxes or more. I have a Lowes that is close so it made it a good option to buy locally. Now maybe you can haggle with Cali Bamboo on the phone for a better price. I actually tried to do that, but they wouldn't answer the phone the morning I called.
STAY AWAY!!! DO NOT BUY CALIBAMBOO. THE LOCKING MECHANISM IS VERY FRAGILE. I would not recommend calibamboo at all!!!! It was a nightmare to install and it's a cheap product even though I spent a fortune on my 3,000 Sq ft home.
oh dang, which product line was it? I found the original cali vinyl pro to be great, but I did try another line with the pad already installed and the locking mechanism was really bad like you mentioned.
@@poodledad The Cali vinyl pro and it has the built-in underlayment pad.
@@alwaysinsearch Yes, i tried that and it was terrible. Immediately returned it and purchased the original cali vinyl pro line without the pad. That stuff is great.
@@poodledad How do you purchase the Cali LVP without the pad on Lowe’s?
I’m interested in the Sandbar Oak but I can’t find one without the attached pad.
I like Cali Bambo is BEAUTIFUL but pricey...
Agreed
Agreed