Now if you can just explain to my wife why these projects aren't like on TV; I can't edit out all of the headaches (warped floors, out of square walls and rotten toilet flange supports, trips tp the hardware store and scores of other challenges you run into on old homes), cut to commerical and return in 5 minutes looking buff, intelligent, happy and relaxed. After forty years you'd think a light would go on but, if it did, she'd just want me to change the light fixture to fit in with the rest of the house that seems to be in perpetual remodel mode. LOL I like this video though, very straight forward, simple and well presented. Good job.
The other obvious issues is who has all these tools to install a floor? I have opposite problem. I install hubby watches. Always using make shift tools since I do not have a table saw and all the other fancy tools. Nope never goes “ as seen on TV”😂😂
I cant believe how much crap people can give someone who is just trying to help, to all of those critics out here, let's see your wood flooring laying techniques. Good video bro.
Very true. I will highly recommend using disclaimer on the videos description so Angry people over the internet don't blame on you. Great video men keep up.
The ones that really set me off are the pros who say they're "too busy making money" to shoot their own videos, yet somehow find the time to attack others that do.
@Drew Everett And yet not one single video from you to show us methods that are not "retarded". Guess you're another one who's "too busy making money" to try to help others based on your vast experience - but yet have enough time to hunt down videos like this one and leave utterly useless remarks.
Hey Janssen I have finally reached your video after searching for what feels like hours for a good explanation to the exact issue you are describing. It appears I had to do the search in English as all the danish videos didn't solve it properly or explained it in a confusing way. So despite English not being my native language, I found your video the absolute best and helpfull in this matter. Thank you and all the best wishes from Denmark.
Yep. This video was the magic bullet to getting that one "impossible" piece in the door jam... Took and hour of measuring, cutting, tweaking, filing, trimming to make it fit, but finally got it in. Thanks!
I'm a cabinetmaker and when I do floating floors here in Australia in my home, I do the same thing works well.Some flooring are too hard to snap in place under door jambs.Excellent video
DAMNIT MAN!!! YOU JUST SAVED OUR ASS ON THIS BIG JOB WE ARE ON !!!!!!THANK YOU!!! we were hired by a bigger flooring company to put down L.V.P.so we loaded all the equipment to do l.v.p. and not tile or wood laminate. Drove three and a half hours to the shop and forklift driver drops a load of damn wood laminate. Now I know it's kinda the same with shape how it snaps together and how it's installed..but this part is extremely frustrating without the correct tools and made the job way harder.and cutting in under the door jamb and getting it locked in place has been the most frustrating experience I have ever dealt with just about.i cannot wait till tomorrow to get to work and show this to my boss he is going to be so happy. It is such a struggle that he has himself convinced we are putting them in backwards and that is what is making it so hard.i don't know how someone with 50 years experience with flooring has frustrated himself so bad the it made him think that and know matter how I show him it is impossible to convince him..this is going to change all of that.if it had been lvp it would have been ok because that is a lot more playable and easier to molest it in there but with the wood it is not and it's very easy to chip it or mess up the joint to where it doesn't cnap together and then have to go re cut the piece and try again.i don't think I've been so excited to go back to a job that has frustrated me to the point of almost wanting to quit because between me being annoyed and my boss pissed off because he convinced himself I have him installing them backwards I have had it.he has never installed this flooring before I have but I had my boss doing the door jambs so I never learned the proper technique and he has always just done tile so he took on the job because we were told it was lvp and I have put down acres of that stuff and told him take it we can knock it out quick and it being wood has made it such a struggle and our install time is almost up..but the time this is going to save us tomorrow will most likely make it so we can finish a day early instead of being a day late or someone staying behind and working all night t hit the deadline..thank you so much for this video dude
That’s a real predicament. I hope it works out better now. There are comments on here saying you can force laminate and get it to snap into place without having to cut the lip, but I know some styles are easier than others to work with and the one I was using when I made this video was about impossible to force. Good luck!
This is great, working around door frames is a pain. What I have done in the past is slide the interlocking parts together on the short side by tapping the piece in, so you would only have to shave one side.
This was a huge help, thank you! In retrospect, cutting off the edge and using glue seems so obvious, but it never occurred to me. I've spent years (literally) trying to figure out how to snap a piece in under a door jamb, lol.
That's wonderful machine. I envy you. Also i want to take your machines. Haha. Just joke. Good machine. My country of tile's machine developments speed is not good. And most of old tilers are fraid of development. Because when they learnded and studied from the tile skill of the older than tile's master, they were hit from the master. So they are fraid of change, challenge, and own position shaking. You are a good tile master. I also tile engineer. I have worked for 8 years. I appreciate to you. I am archtecture in Republic of Korea the first grade that pubilish my country. By the way i was wood maker for 2 years. Last i learned from tile master skill of the best of best in Pohang city ( now i live in city). Finally glad to see your youtuve channel. Good study to me. I own my youtube channel that homemaker. Thanks. God Bless you.
Some products require a transition in all doorjambs I guess for expansion. I've generally started doing that by default as it makes the install a bit easier. You do really nice work here though. Shaving that female joint and glueing is a life saver.
Maybe I'm missing something, but why cut off the locking for the two pieces to connect and then glue them together? Why not just snap the two pieces together first and then slide them in at the same time?
If you try to snap together without lifting on an angle you will force it and break the locking mechanism which will come apart. Better to glue and slide in straight like this guy does
Another approach is to still lock the longer board in on the other side of the doorway then slide it into place under the jam. The same could be done against that cabinet. That way you're only having to remove the locking and doing glue only on the much shorter side. Nonetheless, GREAT video! GREAT advice!
This assumes that the flooring opposite the transition is of the same height or greater, that currently no flooring is there, and that the jamb is undercut along its whole width. but it is just as he stated. Just slide it in,@@msp9810
This cannot be done. You state to lock longer board in on the other side of the doorway, which would be the side already down. This will not slide through the doorway, since it is longer than the doorway opening. Or are you referring to the reverse which will not work either, since the two pieces go around the door opening and are too long. Your second explanation does clarify anything. Does anyone understand what he is trying to say, or could you try a different approach to explain? Thanks
I think what he suggested is to snap the long piece together but just shy from the door jamb on the short side, they you use a scrap piece on the opposite short end and tap the board under the jamb, that way the long piece at least will be locked with just having to cut the short piece locking tab
At first I was like that's dumb to shave it down like that. Just measure all your cuts correctly an knock it in place. But yeah I can see how this would be helpful for a homeowner.
Thanks for showing what to use to cut the wood to slide boards under. That makes it understandable and knowing what saw to use to do this makes it possible to install my flooring without worries of it being cut badly to fit. Thanks for the video.
This was a big help to me, thank you! I've been laying some click laminate flooring and had wondered about shaving boards to fit around a door opening so I just slide the boards in under the door jam, but lacked the confidence to know if it was the correct thing to do. Your video confirmed my idea and showed me I was on the right track. Thank you so much from the other side of the pond! 😀👍🏻🇬🇧
Sensational! I've seen others talk about cutting the door jam off, which after just finishing a job I tried, but then I struggled with the "how do you interlock them" question because of not being able to come in at an angle. Maybe next time my job won't look so amateurish
you could have installed the first one and slid it over keeping the factory locking mechanism then slide the next one in raise up slightly and tap with tapping block
Thanks for this video! My first (and last) time laying laminate flooring!! I just have the doorframe to do...but needs to fit up to the metal doorstop as carpet is fitted other side of the door! Also i dont have any power tools to remove the doorframe...would a hacksaw do the job?!!
What I did was sand some of the lip off which made it possible to snap into position and then using a block tap the piece underneath the door jamb. I don't cut the jamb but instead cut around it. I do cut the arch to fit the laminate underneath. Not sure if it's wise to cut the actual jamb.
Since there needs to be a gap between the floorboards and the walls, do the floorboards by the wall ever come loose? Does the baseboard/caulking help keep this from happening?
Hey great video thanks for posting it. I had a question can you use wood glue to seam together two pieces of engineered hardwood that's maybe an eighth to a quarter inch thick? To put together two pieces in a doorway?
Thanks for sharing! Great job! Those doorways can be a P.I.A. when running a flow through floor. I totally agree, using the oscillating tool is the best method for cutting out those jambs and trim. I start my flooring on the doorway wall when using T-Molding and running the flooring parallel with it. Just cut > pre-assemble > slip in place and continue on. That way, I'm not all jambed up at the doorway...... LOL. Thanks again and Happy Holidays! 👍😊
Any tips for installation around a wall that that sticks out 8 feet into a room, dividing the kitchen from the living room? I'm running the floor parallel to the main wall, so 90 degrees to the wall that sticks out, and I'm starting at the side where the main wall meets the 'outcrop' wall. I want to maintain consistent floor through both areas. I'm laying vinyl plank. Thanks, your videos have been very helpful!
i know it would take more time, but what kept you from taking off the trim, especially in more of a high traffic area?(assuming high traffic with it being a bathroom)
FINALLY! A video that specifically addresses the issues I've been having on the last 2 planks I'm putting in my bedroom to bthrm flooring. Even better, it uses tools I already have, except for the backward hammer tool. Glad I didn't sell that small plane at the garage sale. Do you have a vid on quarter round around bull nose and off angles? Liked & subscribed.
Haven't done a floor lately (homeowner and been a few years) but the ones I put down you can hammer into snap. As in lay two of them down flat next to each other and hammer hard enough through the plastic block and they'll snap into place. No taking it back apart without damaging one or both of the pieces though. Look at the instructions that come with your planks, should say it if its ok to. Good vid. Always remember to include the basics. So many people skip over the basics.
I've broken the edges of quite a few pieces by flat hammering... which is VERY frustrating when you have just spent ages carefully making a template and cutting the pieces...
I need to know how you lay the pieces in front of the doorway with pre-existing molding and door jamb. That's what I'm dealing with now. I realize I can remove the molding and replace it but how do I get the piece under the door jamb and get it to snap into place? Been researching this for an hour and can't find what I need. Thanks.
How does the timber backed laminate go in a wet area? I thought you would need to use a Hybrid laminate in wet areas, the timber backing would swell and deteriorate wouldn't it? Not able to use PVA timber glue for the Hybrid, so reverted to sikaflex adhesive sealant.
Im in the exact spot you’re in. But I have tile on the other side of the door. As a first timer with click-lock I now know that I should have started at this door. I think the handheld planer will so the trick for me bc no way am I going to be able to snap in the last piece.
Yes sir. When doing just one room it’s definitely easier to start at the door if you’re laying parallel to the door. You’ll remember that next time! Just use a generous amount of glue and that joint should last just as long as any.
Thanks, I am just finishing up my first floor installation. It went well.I give it an 85 % grade but I struggled with this and was sweating trying to figure out what to do I ended up get them to lock but after so much fighting with it I was exhausted and I still have a little gap around the door jam even though I used the multi tool to cut a space for the plank to go under. On the next floor I hope to get I will use your method. Now I need to find a way to install around spindles. 😪
Hi, great video, but I have an issure in my closet....What do I do around the crawlspace door, and to the cover of it with the planks??? do I glues the planks to the crawlspace cover? How do I cut or nail or glue around the crawlspace opening??? Nobody has videos about this which is mind baffling!!!!!!
It’s hard to say without seeing your exact situation but my first thought is to trim out the opening with a reducer style transition strip. You could then use the same reducer around the crawl space door itself and glue the planks to the door with construction adhesive. Not 100% sure if that’s the best solution but it should work.
The later portion of the video regarding cabinets or opposing walls. You can start the flooring at a 45° angle like he did and use the curved end of a flat bar and pry slightly against the flooring and wall by twisting the flat bar while pressing down on the flooring and it will snap right in no need to shave off the top tab. If you lay it enough you will find all kinds of tips and tricks
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Is it possible to get the door way to have a single piece of laminate the whole way rather than a cut and slide. Thanks
I’d say that depends where your last row ends as you’re approaching the doorway. If the last row is all the way against the wall and at least flush with one side of the door jamb then you can slide an entire piece under the jamb. If your previous row ends in a way that requires you to cut a “U” shaped notch in both ends of the plank then you probably won’t get it installed without some caulking. Better to have a seam in the doorway. Hopefully that makes sense.
You are cutting the door jamb. The door assemble is support by the jamb, therefore what is supporting the door unit after the jambs are completely cut?
I thought about the same thing….wouldn’t I be cutting into the stud? (But I am not cutting the entire thickness of the “2x4” stud framing for the door opening, just inches to get the piece to lay neatly, right? ) 🤷🏽♀️ But I noticed that your cut “wraps” around, cutting the entire portion in that area , leaving a substantial space to fit the plank on either side of the door jamb. I will jump in and try your tips tomorrow. I’m literally at a standstill because of one doorjamb!
Great tips! What glue would you use for vinyl plank (when you cut off the tongues for fitting round door jambs). i'm thinking wood glue may not work on vinyl plank. Thanks for the helpful videos!
Thank you for great troubleshooting for us noobs. I think I screwed up the first piece installed LVP female towards the wall! Directions said tongue towards to the wall so male goes on top. However, our small 40 sqft bathroom V-Evo-Max Durato looks amazing! I didn't need to glue down the last piece for transition only trim it down.
4:46 why would you have 2 boards with the snapping system removed in that position ? That wood glue is good until it cracks , after that you have nothing holding those boards together.
Never struggled with it, 2 years Cabinet making mightve been an asset but my first laminate job I cut and put in 4 doorjambs, guy who hired me was lile holy shit you cut better than me.
I’ve redone several floors in my home, and never used glue. You can snap the pieces together under the door jamb, it takes some work, but it can be done.
Hi Janson I am trying to fit a small little room in my living quarter but the skirting board was hardwood and attached by strong nails - a friend of mind with all his might failed to pull the snails off the wall. So we are trying to curing the skirting board but how do we finish the very last row/boards next to the skirting and which ends at the door? I look forward to your reply. Regards Angela
Backer probably isn’t necessary. Just find the best color match you can. Might have to do 2 coats if the caulk settles/flattens out. It likes to do that in big gaps.
Glue is ok, but not removing edge is better. Don’t use a tapping block; instead, use a short piece of laminate-lock it in place, and whack the next row into the previous one. By using a discarded piece of laminate, you can hammer the new row harder, without damaging it. Also, use a flat crowbar to lift the new laminate up slightly, while you whack it, so that it snaps easier into place. The crowbar method works when installing under door jambs.
It would. If it’s metal it’s probably sitting on the floor, not hung like a wood frame/jamb. If you have a metal door frame I’d suggest cutting the flooring as close as possible and caulk the small gap.
i mean a lot of helpful things said in the video but the only thing i can say is whenever ive done laminate flooring ive always been told never to have a seam in a door like that it will cause major creaking and boards lifting after a time unless i was told wrong?
Literally dont do this. The glue will fail ESECIALLY on thresholds, where the floor tends to be just a bit uneven. Then it will dog-ear, and good luck getting it replaced after you literally cut their locking mechanism off lol. It voids the warrenty.
@@erichsh58 I think you got that correct however one detail you don't provide in your reasoning is this: Can wood glue withstand the small expansion/contraction that happens overtime with this type of flooring? Does wood glue allow for movement or flexibility or would it crack and fail over time from walking on it? It may be stronger in tension but it may be weak in compression. Something to think about.
Once installed your only option is to find a good color match caulk and fill the gaps. Not the end of the world. Most people probably won’t even notice the caulked gaps. Good luck.
I’m slowly learning, got to fit laminate flooring, and the underlay on a medium size room..first time. There’s no gap under my skirting or door, is it a must do to cut the gap underneath?? Im so clueless
You can leave the skirting/base board but will need quarter round/shoe molding to finish the edge. Around the door, you can either under cut it like I showed or caulk the gap. Caulking won’t look great though.
Janssen Properties quick question about laminate underlay, does it have to be fit perfectly to the wall or can u leave some overlap/ since its a roll, is there a certain size i should cut it into and tape together ?
Great tip, Sir! My thanks to you. Now, for a Question: I am replacing sheet vinyl in my Kitchen with 14mm laminate. The thickness of the laminate makes my dishwasher TOO HIGH for the cabinet opening. Since I will be replacing my countertops along with the floor, should I run the new laminate underneath the dishwasher. Or, just cut it in? I appreciate your answer. Blessings!
Hi Sanders. Good question. I have to assume your existing sheet vinyl is covering multiple layers of old flooring, which is why you're so high now. The right way is really to tear out the old layers, but I'm guessing you want to avoid that. Your best bet is probably to lay laminate part way into the dishwasher cavity. Then when you're done and ready to install the dishwasher trim back the new laminate just enough so the front feet of the dw will sit on the old floor. The front trim panel of the dw should cover the transition from new to old flooring. Be prepared it may be a real challenge to squeeze in under the counter if your floor is really thick and will take some trial and error to get the feet adjusted correctly. Better yet, install the dw while the couter tops are out and hope you never have to replace it. Good luck!
Will this application work for an installation in the basement, considering the expanding and contracting of the flooring on the cold concrete? Well the glue holes right? Will there be any bellying overtime?
The expansion and contraction will come from changes in moisture more than temperature. In basements I’ve mostly done small areas. In the one room where I did go through a doorway (my house) it’s held up fine. It’s very important to manage moisture on concrete. A good continuous vapor barrier is a must.
Yea but you have to put something under the board because I'm sure you know that the board has to be lifted to go in without breaking the tounge. Why would you need a scrap piece anyway? Unless you are back filling that's ridiculous. Maybe you have to learn how to use a tapping block and hammer better.
@@sheriu7167 If you need a male tapping board then it means rookie. Now like I said backwards even I use a tapping board sometimes because the male ends are a lot thinner and fragile.
Looks like that would also work for that very last piece in a row between the first row and the edge. How else do you snap the left or right side and the edge of the other row?
Use a pull bar. Easier than planing, gluing and taping. The technique shown doesn’t make a lot of sense to do. You can get it all to work and keep the locking mechanism
Check out this video to see the tools I use when laying a laminate or vinyl plank floor.
ua-cam.com/video/jK1uGIgaWlM/v-deo.html
I might of missed it but what type of glue did you use?
Now if you can just explain to my wife why these projects aren't like on TV; I can't edit out all of the headaches (warped floors, out of square walls and rotten toilet flange supports, trips tp the hardware store and scores of other challenges you run into on old homes), cut to commerical and return in 5 minutes looking buff, intelligent, happy and relaxed. After forty years you'd think a light would go on but, if it did, she'd just want me to change the light fixture to fit in with the rest of the house that seems to be in perpetual remodel mode. LOL
I like this video though, very straight forward, simple and well presented. Good job.
Dale, that’s the best comment ever! I have a wife too ;)
The other obvious issues is who has all these tools to install a floor? I have opposite problem. I install hubby watches. Always using make shift tools since I do not have a table saw and all the other fancy tools. Nope never goes “ as seen on TV”😂😂
Thank you I couldn't figure out how to snap pieces together once they were under the frame. Hallelujah!!
I cant believe how much crap people can give someone who is just trying to help, to all of those critics out here, let's see your wood flooring laying techniques.
Good video bro.
I appreciate that. Can’t please everyone!
Very true. I will highly recommend using disclaimer on the videos description so Angry people over the internet don't blame on you. Great video men keep up.
Yup everyone is a sidewalk superintendent 😂😂but really though take the damm baseboards and ditch the quarter round
The ones that really set me off are the pros who say they're "too busy making money" to shoot their own videos, yet somehow find the time to attack others that do.
@Drew Everett And yet not one single video from you to show us methods that are not "retarded". Guess you're another one who's "too busy making money" to try to help others based on your vast experience - but yet have enough time to hunt down videos like this one and leave utterly useless remarks.
Hey Janssen
I have finally reached your video after searching for what feels like hours for a good explanation to the exact issue you are describing. It appears I had to do the search in English as all the danish videos didn't solve it properly or explained it in a confusing way.
So despite English not being my native language, I found your video the absolute best and helpfull in this matter.
Thank you and all the best wishes from Denmark.
Yep. This video was the magic bullet to getting that one "impossible" piece in the door jam... Took and hour of measuring, cutting, tweaking, filing, trimming to make it fit, but finally got it in. Thanks!
I'm a cabinetmaker and when I do floating floors here in Australia in my home, I do the same thing works well.Some flooring are too hard to snap in place under door jambs.Excellent video
DAMNIT MAN!!! YOU JUST SAVED OUR ASS ON THIS BIG JOB WE ARE ON !!!!!!THANK YOU!!! we were hired by a bigger flooring company to put down L.V.P.so we loaded all the equipment to do l.v.p. and not tile or wood laminate. Drove three and a half hours to the shop and forklift driver drops a load of damn wood laminate. Now I know it's kinda the same with shape how it snaps together and how it's installed..but this part is extremely frustrating without the correct tools and made the job way harder.and cutting in under the door jamb and getting it locked in place has been the most frustrating experience I have ever dealt with just about.i cannot wait till tomorrow to get to work and show this to my boss he is going to be so happy. It is such a struggle that he has himself convinced we are putting them in backwards and that is what is making it so hard.i don't know how someone with 50 years experience with flooring has frustrated himself so bad the it made him think that and know matter how I show him it is impossible to convince him..this is going to change all of that.if it had been lvp it would have been ok because that is a lot more playable and easier to molest it in there but with the wood it is not and it's very easy to chip it or mess up the joint to where it doesn't cnap together and then have to go re cut the piece and try again.i don't think I've been so excited to go back to a job that has frustrated me to the point of almost wanting to quit because between me being annoyed and my boss pissed off because he convinced himself I have him installing them backwards I have had it.he has never installed this flooring before I have but I had my boss doing the door jambs so I never learned the proper technique and he has always just done tile so he took on the job because we were told it was lvp and I have put down acres of that stuff and told him take it we can knock it out quick and it being wood has made it such a struggle and our install time is almost up..but the time this is going to save us tomorrow will most likely make it so we can finish a day early instead of being a day late or someone staying behind and working all night t hit the deadline..thank you so much for this video dude
That’s a real predicament. I hope it works out better now. There are comments on here saying you can force laminate and get it to snap into place without having to cut the lip, but I know some styles are easier than others to work with and the one I was using when I made this video was about impossible to force. Good luck!
trying to translate to English what I was looking for but came straight to you, freaking on point, exactly what I was having problems with. Thank you!
This is great, working around door frames is a pain. What I have done in the past is slide the interlocking parts together on the short side by tapping the piece in, so you would only have to shave one side.
This was a huge help, thank you! In retrospect, cutting off the edge and using glue seems so obvious, but it never occurred to me. I've spent years (literally) trying to figure out how to snap a piece in under a door jamb, lol.
Do not do this method with bamboo floors. It won't work. I know because I tried it and then had to remove the flooring and redo it.
That's wonderful machine. I envy you. Also i want to take your machines. Haha. Just joke. Good machine. My country of tile's machine developments speed is not good. And most of old tilers are fraid of development. Because when they learnded and studied from the tile skill of the older than tile's master, they were hit from the master. So they are fraid of change, challenge, and own position shaking. You are a good tile master. I also tile engineer. I have worked for 8 years. I appreciate to you. I am archtecture in Republic of Korea the first grade that pubilish my country. By the way i was wood maker for 2 years. Last i learned from tile master skill of the best of best in Pohang city ( now i live in city). Finally glad to see your youtuve channel. Good study to me. I own my youtube channel that homemaker. Thanks. God Bless you.
What a huge help. Was baffled by this issue until your video cleared it up. Many thanks
Some products require a transition in all doorjambs I guess for expansion. I've generally started doing that by default as it makes the install a bit easier. You do really nice work here though. Shaving that female joint and glueing is a life saver.
Maybe I'm missing something, but why cut off the locking for the two pieces to connect and then glue them together? Why not just snap the two pieces together first and then slide them in at the same time?
If you try to snap together without lifting on an angle you will force it and break the locking mechanism which will come apart. Better to glue and slide in straight like this guy does
Another approach is to still lock the longer board in on the other side of the doorway then slide it into place under the jam. The same could be done against that cabinet. That way you're only having to remove the locking and doing glue only on the much shorter side. Nonetheless, GREAT video! GREAT advice!
Can you point to a video where it is done the way you describe?
This assumes that the flooring opposite the transition is of the same height or greater, that currently no flooring is there, and that the jamb is undercut along its whole width. but it is just as he stated. Just slide it in,@@msp9810
@@msp9810you simply connect it together and tap it into place, which will slide the flooring while it’s hugging along the locking piece
This cannot be done. You state to lock longer board in on the other side of the doorway, which would be the side already down. This will not slide through the doorway, since it is longer than the doorway opening. Or are you referring to the reverse which will not work either, since the two pieces go around the door opening and are too long. Your second explanation does clarify anything. Does anyone understand what he is trying to say, or could you try a different approach to explain? Thanks
I think what he suggested is to snap the long piece together but just shy from the door jamb on the short side, they you use a scrap piece on the opposite short end and tap the board under the jamb, that way the long piece at least will be locked with just having to cut the short piece locking tab
There’s lots of ways to do this. I do it differently. But your way works well and would work well for homeowners that want to tackle it themselves.
At first I was like that's dumb to shave it down like that. Just measure all your cuts correctly an knock it in place. But yeah I can see how this would be helpful for a homeowner.
Thanks for showing what to use to cut the wood to slide boards under. That makes it understandable and knowing what saw to use to do this makes it possible to install my flooring without worries of it being cut badly to fit. Thanks for the video.
You just saved me about three days of work, a lot of money, and a huge headache! Thanks!!!
This was a big help to me, thank you! I've been laying some click laminate flooring and had wondered about shaving boards to fit around a door opening so I just slide the boards in under the door jam, but lacked the confidence to know if it was the correct thing to do. Your video confirmed my idea and showed me I was on the right track. Thank you so much from the other side of the pond! 😀👍🏻🇬🇧
Sensational! I've seen others talk about cutting the door jam off, which after just finishing a job I tried, but then I struggled with the "how do you interlock them" question because of not being able to come in at an angle. Maybe next time my job won't look so amateurish
Recommendation: You must cut the Base Molding minimum, one inch. Otherwise you won't have to struggle much with that cut 1:35
This is exactly what I needed to see. Was having trouble working around the door jambs. Thank you!
I wished I have watched it BEFORE I finished my laminate, but well... like for a fantastic idea :D
you could have installed the first one and slid it over keeping the factory locking mechanism then slide the next one in raise up slightly and tap with tapping block
Yeah this is what I did, I managed to get a corner started and the tapping block worked wonders getting that joint closed.
Yea that will be coming up or separating in about 2 years
Wrong installation, I’m sorry.
Tried n true glue..thats what they used before locking boards 💪🏻 the joint will b stronger
@@natedawg88 that glue is stronger than screw or nails. That's not coming up in two years.
Thanks from England :) - been trying to get my head around how to do but now much clearer - thanks
Nicely done. Thanks for good tips. I was always scared to shave off the clippings
How is that expansion working out now that it has been down for a while?
Thats what the 10mm gap around the edges are for?
Thanks for this video! My first (and last) time laying laminate flooring!! I just have the doorframe to do...but needs to fit up to the metal doorstop as carpet is fitted other side of the door! Also i dont have any power tools to remove the doorframe...would a hacksaw do the job?!!
What I did was sand some of the lip off which made it possible to snap into position and then using a block tap the piece underneath the door jamb.
I don't cut the jamb but instead cut around it. I do cut the arch to fit the laminate underneath. Not sure if it's wise to cut the actual jamb.
Since there needs to be a gap between the floorboards and the walls, do the floorboards by the wall ever come loose? Does the baseboard/caulking help keep this from happening?
Hey great video thanks for posting it. I had a question can you use wood glue to seam together two pieces of engineered hardwood that's maybe an eighth to a quarter inch thick? To put together two pieces in a doorway?
This is definitely gonna help. I have so many transitions into different rooms and I want it all to flow through like this
Thanks for sharing! Great job! Those doorways can be a P.I.A. when running a flow through floor. I totally agree, using the oscillating tool is the best method for cutting out those jambs and trim. I start my flooring on the doorway wall when using T-Molding and running the flooring parallel with it. Just cut > pre-assemble > slip in place and continue on. That way, I'm not all jambed up at the doorway...... LOL. Thanks again and Happy Holidays! 👍😊
Any tips for installation around a wall that that sticks out 8 feet into a room, dividing the kitchen from the living room? I'm running the floor parallel to the main wall, so 90 degrees to the wall that sticks out, and I'm starting at the side where the main wall meets the 'outcrop' wall. I want to maintain consistent floor through both areas. I'm laying vinyl plank. Thanks, your videos have been very helpful!
Man what a simple and clever idea, I’ve been dreading this part of my installation. Thanks!
Yes exact same
i know it would take more time, but what kept you from taking off the trim, especially in more of a high traffic area?(assuming high traffic with it being a bathroom)
Amazing vid, thank you so much!! I hope this isn't too dumb a question, but why aren't you using spacers?
FINALLY! A video that specifically addresses the issues I've been having on the last 2 planks I'm putting in my bedroom to bthrm flooring. Even better, it uses tools I already have, except for the backward hammer tool. Glad I didn't sell that small plane at the garage sale.
Do you have a vid on quarter round around bull nose and off angles?
Liked & subscribed.
I ran into this today in a pantry closet. I was able to tap them in with a block and maintain factory joint. But thats a good tip.
Great tip. Thank you.
Is there any chance you have a video you can send me of a before and after look when you planed off the edge
Haven't done a floor lately (homeowner and been a few years) but the ones I put down you can hammer into snap. As in lay two of them down flat next to each other and hammer hard enough through the plastic block and they'll snap into place. No taking it back apart without damaging one or both of the pieces though. Look at the instructions that come with your planks, should say it if its ok to. Good vid. Always remember to include the basics. So many people skip over the basics.
Thanks for the advice! 😉😉
I've broken the edges of quite a few pieces by flat hammering... which is VERY frustrating when you have just spent ages carefully making a template and cutting the pieces...
I need to know how you lay the pieces in front of the doorway with pre-existing molding and door jamb. That's what I'm dealing with now. I realize I can remove the molding and replace it but how do I get the piece under the door jamb and get it to snap into place? Been researching this for an hour and can't find what I need. Thanks.
You can do this while making the transition to a room right?
This has always stumped me. Very helpful. Thanks for sharing!
How does the timber backed laminate go in a wet area? I thought you would need to use a Hybrid laminate in wet areas, the timber backing would swell and deteriorate wouldn't it? Not able to use PVA timber glue for the Hybrid, so reverted to sikaflex adhesive sealant.
Im in the exact spot you’re in. But I have tile on the other side of the door. As a first timer with click-lock I now know that I should have started at this door.
I think the handheld planer will so the trick for me bc no way am I going to be able to snap in the last piece.
Yes sir. When doing just one room it’s definitely easier to start at the door if you’re laying parallel to the door. You’ll remember that next time! Just use a generous amount of glue and that joint should last just as long as any.
Thanks, I am just finishing up my first floor installation. It went well.I give it an 85 % grade but I struggled with this and was sweating trying to figure out what to do I ended up get them to lock but after so much fighting with it I was exhausted and I still have a little gap around the door jam even though I used the multi tool to cut a space for the plank to go under. On the next floor I hope to get I will use your method.
Now I need to find a way to install around spindles. 😪
very helpful. Can you do a close up of where you are planning?
wood jams are easy but what about dealing with metal ones? Do you try to cut the jam or just but youe laminate to flush meeting to jam?
Cut it close and use color match caulk.
It’s hard now to imagine a life without an oscillating tool. I have a Milwaukee brushless 18v model and I’d never approach a job without it.
Hi, great video, but I have an issure in my closet....What do I do around the crawlspace door, and to the cover of it with the planks??? do I glues the planks to the crawlspace cover? How do I cut or nail or glue around the crawlspace opening??? Nobody has videos about this which is mind baffling!!!!!!
It’s hard to say without seeing your exact situation but my first thought is to trim out the opening with a reducer style transition strip. You could then use the same reducer around the crawl space door itself and glue the planks to the door with construction adhesive. Not 100% sure if that’s the best solution but it should work.
When your doing two rooms in laminate flooring is it best to get rid of the floor threshold. Great video
Best video I have ever seen on solving these problems, thank you!
The later portion of the video regarding cabinets or opposing walls. You can start the flooring at a 45° angle like he did and use the curved end of a flat bar and pry slightly against the flooring and wall by twisting the flat bar while pressing down on the flooring and it will snap right in no need to shave off the top tab. If you lay it enough you will find all kinds of tips and tricks
Could you post a video showing that
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Is it possible to get the door way to have a single piece of laminate the whole way rather than a cut and slide. Thanks
I’d say that depends where your last row ends as you’re approaching the doorway. If the last row is all the way against the wall and at least flush with one side of the door jamb then you can slide an entire piece under the jamb. If your previous row ends in a way that requires you to cut a “U” shaped notch in both ends of the plank then you probably won’t get it installed without some caulking. Better to have a seam in the doorway. Hopefully that makes sense.
@@HomeSource great explanation! 😉😉😉👍👍👍
You are cutting the door jamb. The door assemble is support by the jamb, therefore what is supporting the door unit after the jambs are completely cut?
The jamb is nailed to the stud framing. It hangs and doesn’t need to sit on the floor.
Thanks@@HomeSource
I thought about the same thing….wouldn’t I be cutting into the stud? (But I am not cutting the entire thickness of the “2x4” stud framing for the door opening, just inches to get the piece to lay neatly, right? ) 🤷🏽♀️ But I noticed that your cut “wraps” around, cutting the entire portion in that area , leaving a substantial space to fit the plank on either side of the door jamb. I will jump in and try your tips tomorrow. I’m literally at a standstill because of one doorjamb!
Great tips! What glue would you use for vinyl plank (when you cut off the tongues for fitting round door jambs). i'm thinking wood glue may not work on vinyl plank. Thanks for the helpful videos!
I use super glue. Normally gorilla glue super glue. Good luck!
Thank you for great troubleshooting for us noobs. I think I screwed up the first piece installed LVP female towards the wall! Directions said tongue towards to the wall so male goes on top. However, our small 40 sqft bathroom V-Evo-Max Durato looks amazing! I didn't need to glue down the last piece for transition only trim it down.
Can you make a video of how you cut the wood to make it fit perfectly?
What are you do on metal door jambs
I think caulk is about your only option with a metal door jamb
4:46 why would you have 2 boards with the snapping system removed in that position ? That wood glue is good until it cracks , after that you have nothing holding those boards together.
Thanks for posting this I was racking my brain trying to figure this out.
Any tips if the flooring is going perpendicular to the doorway?
How do we cut the sides to fit
Question won’t the the possible expansion and contractions be affected since you actually glued the pieces down ?
Nope. They aren’t glued down to the floor , they’re glued together. Those two pieces will move together as if one wide plank.
@@HomeSource I must have missed that part I thought you glued to the floor. Thank you for the rapid reply your awesome brother!!!
Looking online for that planer for the edges can someone post a link to that tool?
Never struggled with it, 2 years Cabinet making mightve been an asset but my first laminate job I cut and put in 4 doorjambs, guy who hired me was lile holy shit you cut better than me.
I’ve redone several floors in my home, and never used glue. You can snap the pieces together under the door jamb, it takes some work, but it can be done.
How exactly can you click them when flat ? Hammer it in with brute force lol ?
can you do the same for Vinyl? just use a plastic glue?
Yep. I’ve used Gorilla brand super glue.
Went to make a cup of tea halfway through, came back and he was still going on!
Why would you search a video on how to do something then leave halfway through?
Is that standard wood glue you are using?
Yep, standard wood glue. Use the waterproof type for extra insurance, but a glued joint is very strong.
Thanks so much! I’ve had problems doing the door jamb thing.
Hi Janson
I am trying to fit a small little room in my living quarter but the skirting board was hardwood and attached by strong nails - a friend of mind with all his might failed to pull the snails off the wall. So we are trying to curing the skirting board but how do we finish the very last row/boards next to the skirting and which ends at the door? I look forward to your reply. Regards Angela
My travertine tiles in my bathroom were cut with that awful gap!
I’m now re-doing the two tiles cos the gap drives me insane!!!
Thats cool how do I cut around my tv unit?
What’s the best way to fix this if you have it on your floor, and don’t want to start over? Backer rod and caulk?
Backer probably isn’t necessary. Just find the best color match you can. Might have to do 2 coats if the caulk settles/flattens out. It likes to do that in big gaps.
@@HomeSource hero!
Glue is ok, but not removing edge is better. Don’t use a tapping block; instead, use a short piece of laminate-lock it in place, and whack the next row into the previous one. By using a discarded piece of laminate, you can hammer the new row harder, without damaging it. Also, use a flat crowbar to lift the new laminate up slightly, while you whack it, so that it snaps easier into place. The crowbar method works when installing under door jambs.
Hi Janssen,
Would cutting out the doorframe be a problem is you have a metal doorframe?
Thanks for the video!
It would. If it’s metal it’s probably sitting on the floor, not hung like a wood frame/jamb. If you have a metal door frame I’d suggest cutting the flooring as close as possible and caulk the small gap.
i mean a lot of helpful things said in the video but the only thing i can say is whenever ive done laminate flooring ive always been told never to have a seam in a door like that it will cause major creaking and boards lifting after a time unless i was told wrong?
Hello, you have a really good channel, this video has had 1.4 views in 2 years, which amazing, really simple wat to explain how to do it, thansk
Thank you for this video! Ive been messing around my door jambs and,around cupboards so i am gona do it all again with your help.
Thanks for this, it explained perfectly how to do this part where the manufacturer and others were silent on it.
You will see plenty of comments saying never cut off the lip, etc, etc. It works for me and provides good results so I’ll keep doing it!
Literally dont do this. The glue will fail ESECIALLY on thresholds, where the floor tends to be just a bit uneven. Then it will dog-ear, and good luck getting it replaced after you literally cut their locking mechanism off lol. It voids the warrenty.
What he doesnt tell you is how it stops working for him a year later
@@chkchkpap45 Seems to me that a full length seal of glue is mechanically stronger than the click lock mechanism.
@@erichsh58 I think you got that correct however one detail you don't provide in your reasoning is this: Can wood glue withstand the small expansion/contraction that happens overtime with this type of flooring? Does wood glue allow for movement or flexibility or would it crack and fail over time from walking on it? It may be stronger in tension but it may be weak in compression. Something to think about.
Where do I get that utility knife you using looks cool
The one with the curved blade? I think they’re called linoleum knives. You can pick them up at most home improvement stores for a few bucks.
I wish I would have seen this sooner. Thank you for sharing tips from the trade!!
What about expansion and contraction around the cabinet and the door?
i use a cut off piece ( ~6") as a tapping block ...works well too
How do I fix the cuts that weren't done properly?
Why do you put a quarter round instead of removing the baseboard?
HOW DO YOU FIX IT WHEN THE FLOOR IS ALREADY INSTALLED.
Once installed your only option is to find a good color match caulk and fill the gaps. Not the end of the world. Most people probably won’t even notice the caulked gaps. Good luck.
@@HomeSource Thanks for your reply & advice.
Can you please share the brand and color of that flooring?
It’s from Lumber Liquidators. Sorry I’m not sure what the color is, but they have a pretty good selection to pick from.
Can I use PVA glue?
I’m slowly learning, got to fit laminate flooring, and the underlay on a medium size room..first time. There’s no gap under my skirting or door, is it a must do to cut the gap underneath?? Im so clueless
You can leave the skirting/base board but will need quarter round/shoe molding to finish the edge. Around the door, you can either under cut it like I showed or caulk the gap. Caulking won’t look great though.
Janssen Properties thanks mate
Janssen Properties quick question about laminate underlay, does it have to be fit perfectly to the wall or can u leave some overlap/ since its a roll, is there a certain size i should cut it into and tape together ?
How about remove door frame and skirting?
How is this floor clean?
Great tip, Sir! My thanks to you. Now, for a Question: I am replacing sheet vinyl in my Kitchen with 14mm laminate. The thickness of the laminate makes my dishwasher TOO HIGH for the cabinet opening. Since I will be replacing my countertops along with the floor, should I run the new laminate underneath the dishwasher. Or, just cut it in? I appreciate your answer. Blessings!
Hi Sanders. Good question. I have to assume your existing sheet vinyl is covering multiple layers of old flooring, which is why you're so high now. The right way is really to tear out the old layers, but I'm guessing you want to avoid that. Your best bet is probably to lay laminate part way into the dishwasher cavity. Then when you're done and ready to install the dishwasher trim back the new laminate just enough so the front feet of the dw will sit on the old floor. The front trim panel of the dw should cover the transition from new to old flooring. Be prepared it may be a real challenge to squeeze in under the counter if your floor is really thick and will take some trial and error to get the feet adjusted correctly. Better yet, install the dw while the couter tops are out and hope you never have to replace it. Good luck!
What brand and color is this floor?It looks great.
I don’t recall the color, but it’s from Lumber Liquidators. They have a good selection.
Will this application work for an installation in the basement, considering the expanding and contracting of the flooring on the cold concrete? Well the glue holes right? Will there be any bellying overtime?
The expansion and contraction will come from changes in moisture more than temperature. In basements I’ve mostly done small areas. In the one room where I did go through a doorway (my house) it’s held up fine. It’s very important to manage moisture on concrete. A good continuous vapor barrier is a must.
Better off using vinyl Or hybrid floating boards in those areas ... Waterproof
I use a scrap peice of male side and insert into female side to tap into place
Yea but you have to put something under the board because I'm sure you know that the board has to be lifted to go in without breaking the tounge. Why would you need a scrap piece anyway? Unless you are back filling that's ridiculous. Maybe you have to learn how to use a tapping block and hammer better.
PeaceLoveHappiness I assume your user name is sarcasm??
Tapping board means less breakage
Sheri U only if peacelovehappiness has approved your tapping skills.
@@sheriu7167 If you need a male tapping board then it means rookie. Now like I said backwards even I use a tapping board sometimes because the male ends are a lot thinner and fragile.
Looks like that would also work for that very last piece in a row between the first row and the edge. How else do you snap the left or right side and the edge of the other row?
Use a pull bar. Easier than planing, gluing and taping. The technique shown doesn’t make a lot of sense to do. You can get it all to work and keep the locking mechanism
What if you have metal door jams?
You’ll need to cut the flooring as close as possible and finish with color matched caulk