If possible best to use copper end lugs instead of those aluminum/steel ones so it’s similar metals. Also a crimp tool to crimp it then drill a hole in the sloped part that goes to the 3/8” opening and you can heat it and solder it in addition to the crimp. If you’re only doing solder they make little plugs of solder that drop right in so it completely fills the 1/0 size lug.
fun little tip if you really are paranoid about corrosion like me, you can shove some dilectric grease inside the tubing over the lug if the tubing doesn't have any adhesive in it. I work on boats so all the connections MUST be %100 waterproof.
The hunting problem is caused by a bad alternator with too much ac "noise" . They make a apps noise isolator that works as a cheap fix but it covers up the real problem. I have a 99 and I went through 2 ecms I would bet were damaged by this problem.
Just redid the battery cables on my 91, only one battery so no cross over. used 0000 wire with crimped on end lugs. then put split loom, routed so there were no bolts or sheet metal on the cables. I feel pretty confident that I will not burn up or short out. Good video of your creation.
Also looks like most of your solder splashed out, probably enough to do okay holding the outsides of the strands but if you coat them in flux then you can slide it in slowly and the flux helps draw the solder into all the strands.
I got it from a place called Polar battery in Vancouver. I believe they are called military spec battery terminals, positive and negative are different. They are available online, Amazon has them probably lots of places
If you haven't found out already.. That open plug by your intake manifold is left open from factory for 12v's eng harness. Mine has a cap on it. Also those black cables from your positive post is for your grid heater. Like the protip with soldering the cable caps on!
Not sure what year your truck is but my 98 24v had the same hunting issue after I got the transmission rebuilt. The Transmission shop installed a $125 US kit on a terminal block on the passenger side firewall that fix my problem. I think that is was some type of resistor mod.
@@StockyBaldman good to know. My 98 needs new cables. Most days it starts fine but every once in a while it acts like the batteries are dead and I end up messing with the battery connections. I'm ordering the military clamps and cable and lugs to replace all the cables on my truck. Still cheaper than a new truck. lol
I found an open circuit between the wires on the output speed sensor in the back of the transfer case but I think the issue ended up being the throttle position sensor. Right before I decided to rebuild the truck, lockup stopped working again though. I’m going to be redoing most if not all of the wiring. Stay tuned I will definitely be trying to figure this out once and for all.
Please allow me to refine your technique: These cable ends must be crimped for proper mechanical connection to the lug. Also welding cable is very fine strand and therefore more difficult to get soldered. Battery cable has less strands and is a better mechanical choice. These cables heat up considerably. If you are cranking for more than a moment or two, they can get hot quickly. Use battery cable. Insert a few lengths of rosin solder into the lug. Crimp the lug to the wire. Heat the lug to conduct heat to the cable and melt the solder. The solder will then fill small spaces as it fuses through the joint making the wire impossible to loosen the crimp. If it happens that the cables are ever overheated, the crimp will hold it all together should the solder reach melting temperature. Your diesel starter is a heavy draw starter. Not unusual to see heat damaged wiring. Battery cables have fewer and heavier strands for this reason, the cable needs these mechanical properties. I own many of these trucks. The battery cable ends finally get so heat damaged that no amount of wire brushing or filing will give a bright shiny surface for good contact. Once that happens then the batteries are no longer charging and discharging equally which is very important. This alone is the cause of many problems. The wire may be heat affected a few inches away from the ruined end. Once cut back to good wire it may be too short. A splice is acceptable if done correctly. I have among many a 2001 3500 with 600,000+ miles. The cable ends recently replaced showed heat damage beyond any reasonable repair. It's surprising how hot it gets. Solder joints will not do it. You've got to crimp them. Carry on my fine young scientist!
Hey Randall, I really appreciate you taking the time to write that out. This method was taught to me by my Dad who is a heavy duty mechanic and has been doing this same system for decades on large industrial logging equipment with out any failures. I think as long as a person is trying to make quality cables they are most likely heading in the right direction. I guess at the end of the day there is more than one way to skin a cat. Thanks again
I work on hoes and skidsteers, and the poor quality materials in some parts is alarming. Watch out for crappy parts. I buy battery cable from a local supplier, last cable I bought from amazon was pure junk. If you don't konw where it was made, then it's from china especially off Amazon. Here's the thing these days: labor costs are so high that fumbles and mistakes are costly. I've greatly increased my effort on doing things to a higher standard. Case in point: I never pull a gooseneck trailer loaded with expensive equipment that is not in top notch condition. An event on the road will cost as much as the trailer. But if you buy parts off amazon...there's no telling what you've got. I've been in electrical engineering for decades. It used to be that if a cable said "THHN" or "500MCM" you could trust it. Not so now, you've got to confirm what you've been supplied first. Back to your 'old Dodge...somewhere about 1998 is the cutoff. Newer vehicles are very sensitive to electrical issues. The battery and wiring is actually a component in the overall electronics now. If there is a defect in one battery, you might see ECM issues. My JD 4520 will not run unless the battery is perfect because the electronics are affected. An aircraft carrier can not jump start it. Buy any old Dodge Cummins series one that smells OK, that's my advice......! I have a buddy with a P-pump 3500. It's got about four wires in the engine bay. That's the Ticket! All my best wishes for you.
That's what our local auto electric specialist shop says, crimping not solder, and no welding cable due to decreased ability to handle engine heat and chemicals..... I really trust these guys, they have been our local go-to for 30 years.... , otherwise great video, and thanks for the info!! . They typically replace the ends if the cables are fine/ with military terminals, meaning less cost to the customer with still quality outcomes....
Your dad should already know that welding cable or "sgr" or rubber insulation isn't the same as the PVC normally used. isn't appropriate for use on the road. Same copper, different insulation. Yeah, you'll PROBABLY not have any issues........but, if you do, your rig burns to the ground. So. Lol The devil is in the wire insulation. "SGT" is the standard, and "SGX" is for rougher applications, insulation wise. If it IS SGR, just because you know one dude, who got away with it for years, doesn't mean the rest of the ones we've responded to, that DID burn down, don't exist. Lol This isn't guessing. It's been widely know in multiple industries. Aviation Electrician, here. Ever park your rig inside a structure? Ever smelled bodies in a fire? Then do it right so you don't have to. Saving $1.50 a ft is no excuse.
Anyone else have battery cables as worn out as mine?
yes, I'm about to replace mine, 04 cummins
Yes mines are toasted I’m about to replace them, that’s the reason I’m watching videos on how to, found your video really helpful thanks man great vid
Awesome thanks!
You did just fine, always listen to your Dad , I always did Which’s he was still around , God bless you n family 🇺🇸😎
Thank you!
If possible best to use copper end lugs instead of those aluminum/steel ones so it’s similar metals. Also a crimp tool to crimp it then drill a hole in the sloped part that goes to the 3/8” opening and you can heat it and solder it in addition to the crimp. If you’re only doing solder they make little plugs of solder that drop right in so it completely fills the 1/0 size lug.
What type of sodder are you using?
fun little tip if you really are paranoid about corrosion like me, you can shove some dilectric grease inside the tubing over the lug if the tubing doesn't have any adhesive in it. I work on boats so all the connections MUST be %100 waterproof.
That is a good tip!
The hunting problem is caused by a bad alternator with too much ac "noise" . They make a apps noise isolator that works as a cheap fix but it covers up the real problem. I have a 99 and I went through 2 ecms I would bet were damaged by this problem.
Yep, correct
Just redid the battery cables on my 91, only one battery so no cross over. used 0000 wire with crimped on end lugs. then put split loom, routed so there were no bolts or sheet metal on the cables. I feel pretty confident that I will not burn up or short out. Good video of your creation.
Thank you!
Also looks like most of your solder splashed out, probably enough to do okay holding the outsides of the strands but if you coat them in flux then you can slide it in slowly and the flux helps draw the solder into all the strands.
You can use a hacksaw to cut it. Grinder with a cut off wheel
👍
Side grinder cuts cable good lol
So did you crimp any of those battery ends. Wont they just pull out if all you have is solder holding them. Looks good, i need to do this as well.
No crimping just solder. I did a trial run, put it in a vice and tried as hard as I could to pull it out and it definitely would not release
Can you tell me where you sourced the battery terminal ends the part that actually clamps onto the battery post
I got it from a place called Polar battery in Vancouver. I believe they are called military spec battery terminals, positive and negative are different. They are available online, Amazon has them probably lots of places
If you haven't found out already.. That open plug by your intake manifold is left open from factory for 12v's eng harness. Mine has a cap on it. Also those black cables from your positive post is for your grid heater. Like the protip with soldering the cable caps on!
Thanks man! I had figured out the grid heaters but I appreciate the info about the harness.
Not sure what year your truck is but my 98 24v had the same hunting issue after I got the transmission rebuilt. The Transmission shop installed a $125 US kit on a terminal block on the passenger side firewall that fix my problem. I think that is was some type of resistor mod.
I tried the APPS noise isolator, I think that's what you're talking about. It ended up being the TPS. It took a while to figure it out
@@StockyBaldman good to know. My 98 needs new cables. Most days it starts fine but every once in a while it acts like the batteries are dead and I end up messing with the battery connections. I'm ordering the military clamps and cable and lugs to replace all the cables on my truck. Still cheaper than a new truck. lol
Yep!
Hey ive been hunting down the same gremlin what did the solution to the over drive hunting end up being?
I found an open circuit between the wires on the output speed sensor in the back of the transfer case but I think the issue ended up being the throttle position sensor. Right before I decided to rebuild the truck, lockup stopped working again though. I’m going to be redoing most if not all of the wiring. Stay tuned I will definitely be trying to figure this out once and for all.
Please allow me to refine your technique: These cable ends must be crimped for proper mechanical connection to the lug. Also welding cable is very fine strand and therefore more difficult to get soldered. Battery cable has less strands and is a better mechanical choice. These cables heat up considerably. If you are cranking for more than a moment or two, they can get hot quickly. Use battery cable. Insert a few lengths of rosin solder into the lug. Crimp the lug to the wire. Heat the lug to conduct heat to the cable and melt the solder. The solder will then fill small spaces as it fuses through the joint making the wire impossible to loosen the crimp. If it happens that the cables are ever overheated, the crimp will hold it all together should the solder reach melting temperature. Your diesel starter is a heavy draw starter. Not unusual to see heat damaged wiring. Battery cables have fewer and heavier strands for this reason, the cable needs these mechanical properties. I own many of these trucks. The battery cable ends finally get so heat damaged that no amount of wire brushing or filing will give a bright shiny surface for good contact. Once that happens then the batteries are no longer charging and discharging equally which is very important. This alone is the cause of many problems. The wire may be heat affected a few inches away from the ruined end. Once cut back to good wire it may be too short. A splice is acceptable if done correctly. I have among many a 2001 3500 with 600,000+ miles. The cable ends recently replaced showed heat damage beyond any reasonable repair. It's surprising how hot it gets. Solder joints will not do it. You've got to crimp them.
Carry on my fine young scientist!
Hey Randall, I really appreciate you taking the time to write that out. This method was taught to me by my Dad who is a heavy duty mechanic and has been doing this same system for decades on large industrial logging equipment with out any failures. I think as long as a person is trying to make quality cables they are most likely heading in the right direction. I guess at the end of the day there is more than one way to skin a cat. Thanks again
I work on hoes and skidsteers, and the poor quality materials in some parts is alarming. Watch out for crappy parts. I buy battery cable from a local supplier, last cable I bought from amazon was pure junk. If you don't konw where it was made, then it's from china especially off Amazon.
Here's the thing these days: labor costs are so high that fumbles and mistakes are costly. I've greatly increased my effort on doing things to a higher standard.
Case in point: I never pull a gooseneck trailer loaded with expensive equipment that is not in top notch condition. An event on the road will cost as much as the trailer. But if you buy parts off amazon...there's no telling what you've got.
I've been in electrical engineering for decades. It used to be that if a cable said "THHN" or "500MCM" you could trust it. Not so now, you've got to confirm what you've been supplied first.
Back to your 'old Dodge...somewhere about 1998 is the cutoff. Newer vehicles are very sensitive to electrical issues. The battery and wiring is actually a component in the overall electronics now. If there is a defect in one battery, you might see ECM issues. My JD 4520 will not run unless the battery is perfect because the electronics are affected. An aircraft carrier can not jump start it.
Buy any old Dodge Cummins series one that smells OK, that's my advice......! I have a buddy with a P-pump 3500. It's got about four wires in the engine bay. That's the Ticket!
All my best wishes for you.
Thanks buddy I appreciate it!
That's what our local auto electric specialist shop says, crimping not solder, and no welding cable due to decreased ability to handle engine heat and chemicals..... I really trust these guys, they have been our local go-to for 30 years.... , otherwise great video, and thanks for the info!! . They typically replace the ends if the cables are fine/ with military terminals, meaning less cost to the customer with still quality outcomes....
Yeah to each their own, I really like this method because it protects the cable strands from oxidation much better.
Love the video btw
Looks great
Thanks man!
20:30 would be grid heater relays
Yep they actually just died too. 😆😆😆
Plug looks like it was from an egr that got deleted
Ya could be
Your dad should already know that welding cable or "sgr" or rubber insulation isn't the same as the PVC normally used. isn't appropriate for use on the road. Same copper, different insulation. Yeah, you'll PROBABLY not have any issues........but, if you do, your rig burns to the ground. So. Lol
The devil is in the wire insulation. "SGT" is the standard, and "SGX" is for rougher applications, insulation wise.
If it IS SGR, just because you know one dude, who got away with it for years, doesn't mean the rest of the ones we've responded to, that DID burn down, don't exist. Lol
This isn't guessing. It's been widely know in multiple industries. Aviation Electrician, here.
Ever park your rig inside a structure? Ever smelled bodies in a fire? Then do it right so you don't have to. Saving $1.50 a ft is no excuse.
All the stuff in this video was purchased at a shop that specializes in automotive batteries and accessories.