Hey man great content! The Baud rate and COM port info messes up a LOT of people, so good job addressing this! NINA is a powerhouse piece of software and is taken next level with some of the plugins available. Images at the end are awesome too. Just a quick note incase anyone sees this comment, do be aware on the ASTAP star database download - you'll want to download the D80 (as of 2024) database. I installed the smaller one (back in 2020 when it was called H17 etc) when I started with a shorter focal length scope, then when I went to a newtonian I couldn't work out why it wouldn't plate solve for ages. I thought it was my setup, but it was simply the FOV was too narrow. 0.6 degrees is the cutoff on the databases and that's *exactly* the FOV I had.
Thanks so much man! Yeah I didn’t see a lot of coverage on those issues, so I figured it was worth giving it a mention. The info about the Star database is super helpful! My stuff is all what was the newest back in 2022 so this is definitely good to know. Thanks! Love the stuff you’re making too, man. Keep it up!
@@oryanastro It was a great walkthrough and actually something that over the years changes - so these videos do get outdated and it never hurts for people to do them. It's also really good for people who are relatively new to create the videos, because there are things folks more experienced will completely look over (such as the COM ports!) I really appreciate it man. I really like your style and editing. Bring on the 10K subs 🙏😎
Great tutorial. I knew most of this from before, but I always like to watch new tutorials that people make - In case there's a neat trick somewhere I've missed. I think yours was really good. Not overly complicated and easy to follow. Another small tip for manually focusing; instead of looking at the star-shape, you can also focus by HFR-values. That's what I did when I first switched from DSLR to dedicated camera (before I got an automatic focuser). Been using NINA for three years and they keep improving the software all the time. My favorite is going to telescopius, creating a framing or even mosaic of an object, export that as a CSV and then import into NINA for later use. I have a library of a bunch of premade-objects stored. Like you, I also import them into the legacy sequencer and convert to advanced - do the tweaks I want (like "wait for time" and "image until time" etc etc), then save it for future use.
Thank you! Yes, I use HFR every night in my focusing routine, the only reason I didn't include it was for simplicity's sake. I'll definitely mention that in a future video, thank you for the tip! Glad to hear I'm not the only one using the importing trick.
I have been doing astrophotography for 4 years and I already know this stuff but I must say that this tutorial is VERY good! I think one of the best videos for beginners starting out with nina! You have earned another sub 🎉
Anytime, Tony :) Yup, the mount’s working like a dream! No issues so far, and I’ve managed to crank out a good amount of images in my time with it up to now. Super happy with my purchase.
Thank you, and thanks for the tip! The PC actually doesn’t have any fans, just a detail that’s part of all of the “quieter” series computers from Mele, so I figured a sticker on there wouldn’t make a difference. If it did have fans/cooling, I’d definitely pick a different spot!
Ditto. As fanless mini PC's use heatsinks to dissipate the heat, it uses the case also as part of the heat dissipation . Stickers on the case can impede this.
Hey man great content! The Baud rate and COM port info messes up a LOT of people, so good job addressing this! NINA is a powerhouse piece of software and is taken next level with some of the plugins available. Images at the end are awesome too.
Just a quick note incase anyone sees this comment, do be aware on the ASTAP star database download - you'll want to download the D80 (as of 2024) database. I installed the smaller one (back in 2020 when it was called H17 etc) when I started with a shorter focal length scope, then when I went to a newtonian I couldn't work out why it wouldn't plate solve for ages. I thought it was my setup, but it was simply the FOV was too narrow. 0.6 degrees is the cutoff on the databases and that's *exactly* the FOV I had.
Thanks so much man! Yeah I didn’t see a lot of coverage on those issues, so I figured it was worth giving it a mention.
The info about the Star database is super helpful! My stuff is all what was the newest back in 2022 so this is definitely good to know. Thanks!
Love the stuff you’re making too, man. Keep it up!
@@oryanastro It was a great walkthrough and actually something that over the years changes - so these videos do get outdated and it never hurts for people to do them. It's also really good for people who are relatively new to create the videos, because there are things folks more experienced will completely look over (such as the COM ports!)
I really appreciate it man. I really like your style and editing. Bring on the 10K subs 🙏😎
Great tutorial. I knew most of this from before, but I always like to watch new tutorials that people make - In case there's a neat trick somewhere I've missed. I think yours was really good. Not overly complicated and easy to follow.
Another small tip for manually focusing; instead of looking at the star-shape, you can also focus by HFR-values. That's what I did when I first switched from DSLR to dedicated camera (before I got an automatic focuser).
Been using NINA for three years and they keep improving the software all the time.
My favorite is going to telescopius, creating a framing or even mosaic of an object, export that as a CSV and then import into NINA for later use. I have a library of a bunch of premade-objects stored. Like you, I also import them into the legacy sequencer and convert to advanced - do the tweaks I want (like "wait for time" and "image until time" etc etc), then save it for future use.
Thank you! Yes, I use HFR every night in my focusing routine, the only reason I didn't include it was for simplicity's sake. I'll definitely mention that in a future video, thank you for the tip! Glad to hear I'm not the only one using the importing trick.
I just got a mini pc so this tutorial coincidentally dropping at the same time is very useful
Nice video Ryan. Great for beginners. You have some serious trees to deal with 😢.
Thank you so much! A lot of changes have happened in the yard since I filmed this, and I have a lot more open sky now. You’ll see in the next video..
I have been doing astrophotography for 4 years and I already know this stuff but I must say that this tutorial is VERY good! I think one of the best videos for beginners starting out with nina!
You have earned another sub 🎉
Thank you very much!
Hi Ryan great tutorial mate thanks for taking the time to make these videos , new mount looks like it's doing great work
Anytime, Tony :) Yup, the mount’s working like a dream! No issues so far, and I’ve managed to crank out a good amount of images in my time with it up to now. Super happy with my purchase.
Love your tutorials, keep up!
Great video Ryan, quick pointer - the sticker on your mini PC might hinder it's cooling performance, might be worth cleaning it off.
Thank you, and thanks for the tip! The PC actually doesn’t have any fans, just a detail that’s part of all of the “quieter” series computers from Mele, so I figured a sticker on there wouldn’t make a difference. If it did have fans/cooling, I’d definitely pick a different spot!
Ditto. As fanless mini PC's use heatsinks to dissipate the heat, it uses the case also as part of the heat dissipation . Stickers on the case can impede this.
Ooh, gotcha. The sticker’s coming off! Thanks guys!
Nice video - What sw on your phone/tablet do you use to remote into your mini pc?
Thank you - AnyDesk!
You can image at daylight bye renting an observatory in another time zone. If you live in the US you can rent an observatory in Europe.