To remove those two rear bushings, placed on an armature (?), you first have to loosen and remove the single pin (fastened by two bolts) which supports that whole subframe in the opposite direction, also loosen both of the two torque links (?) on at least one side of them, whereafter you can push the whole subframe forward a bit, thus making that armature free to be removed and treated separately.
You're welcome. I have seen the large bushing oriented 90 degrees (Backman's Garage) but that's how the came out of my car and they were original. You choose!
After watching the video I think I'll wait for a while to do my rear suspension bushings on my '90 740GL. The old adage; "If it ain't broke don't fix it." seems to apply here! lol
@@an5ama5 I've already special ordered those subframe bushings from Volvo, they're coming from Sweden and will be here in a few weeks. But, when they arrive I think I'll take a pass on them, too! Looks like the wise thing to do. The other bushings - all Meyle - I already have from FCP Euro and I think I'll replace them one rod, trailing arm, etc. at a time.
@@bobjohnson205 if I could've figured out what to do with axle, I think I would've tried. If you drop and move the whole thing, it should be easy (nothing is easy). Good luck, send an update. Also, check eEuroparts, too.
@@an5ama5 Since I have all the new bushings (Meyle) that I need to do the upper & lower torque rods, and they look easy to do (?), I think I'll do those this week. I have one track rod bushing (Meyle), the other one from Volvo arrives in a couple of weeks. So, I'll do that one next. As for those other two bushings? If my original ones look fine when the new Volvo ones arrive in early October I think I'll just set them aside. I live in an area where salt is used on the roads from Nov. to April. So, that makes things even tougher. :(
Its pretty unreal how much worse this looks to do than a 240. I have a 240t with full spherical and delrin bushings and it was a cake walk to do most of that, but i recently got a 940t for a daily and i figured id just keep it stock. Seeing how much random fluff they added to the rear suspension design makes this look miserable to do. Cant wait
@@an5ama5 i dont have a bushing press so ive had to burn and cut every bushing out ive ever done lol. I was thinking to just buy the premade adjustable ipd panhard since the BNE panhard and torque rods on the 240 dropped in effortlessly
Here is the link to the custom torque rods I used. I also installed a custom poly trans mount and a new set of motor mounts! www.retroturbo.com/?product=rear-axle-control-arms-700-900 Retro turbo has anything you can think of! And their customer service is amazing!
I clipped the curb in my 940 and bent the mount for the upper torque rod next to the differential I put the bolt in there but it keeps popping out and I've bent it back in place and it still keeps popping out I think it's a bushing issue I do not know I've missed two or three lifetimes already somebody pushing but I haven't had the time to put it in it became too cold
So, instead of a bushing replacement I picked up new (renewed) upper/lower torque rods (with poly bushings pre-installed) from Retro Turbo for my 1995 Volvo 940T. If I'm just swapping the 2 rods out, do I need to disconnect everything (drive shaft, etc?)
No, you won't need to disconnect the drive shaft, but I did take the panhard bar off at the same time. The frame and axel were supported independently of each other so I could position it with my floor jacks.
I went back to watch the video and about half way through I can see that I in fact disconnected the drive shaft at the dif. I was going to replace the dif seal but decided it wasn't leaking enough. I'm not sure if that helped out hindered my repair. I just felt I should correct my earlier reply.
I'm not sure about the steering rack (at all) but the physical dash board should fit. However, the climate control systems are different, most of the switch gear wiring is the same. Not sure if this is helpful to you
So, I go to pull my old torque rods out and wow are those bolts a pain! I'm stuck on the top torque rod bolt. (Highest one) there is no room for sockets and I live in the rust belt (ny) so the rust is strong! lol. So I'm stuck for the moment until I can get a proper wrench. (13/16) the 18mm's were easy tho! Any more advice? lol.
Yes! I used a long extension on my breaker bar so that I had some swing room in the wheel well. IIRC I was able to fit a box wrench jammed against the underside of the body on the inboard side. I'm in CT, I know your pain, we sand and salt EVERYTHING. I don't drive my 740 in the winter EDIT check around 6:33 to see how I got the upper bolt
That sounds like a good idea and probably what I will end up doing. (Did not pull the wheels off yet) guess I'll have to, atleast on the passenger side. But my fuel lines are still in the way and I am not fond of bending them too far back. Did you have that problem on the outer side top bolt? Once again, I appreciate all your insight and help.
So, after letting it sit soaked in PB oil over night basically did the job! (That and a giant proper 13/16 wrench!) lol. The only struggle after that was getting the custom arms to line up but jacking up the rear end and some muscle pretty much solved that. (*the custom torque rods are new units with solid molded polyurethane bushings pre-installed.) This made things easier and stiffer! ;)
Brilliant Video - Thank you
Great tip on shock, thanks
Thank you for making this video, very helpful!
You're welcome
Thanks for the video! I'm slowly learning how the suspension works on my 940...
you're welcome, I'll answer what I can
To remove those two rear bushings, placed on an armature (?), you first have to loosen and remove the single pin (fastened by two bolts) which supports that whole subframe in the opposite direction, also loosen both of the two torque links (?) on at least one side of them, whereafter you can push the whole subframe forward a bit, thus making that armature free to be removed and treated separately.
Thank you btw, always appreciated!
You're welcome. I have seen the large bushing oriented 90 degrees (Backman's Garage) but that's how the came out of my car and they were original. You choose!
After watching the video I think I'll wait for a while to do my rear suspension bushings on my '90 740GL. The old adage; "If it ain't broke don't fix it." seems to apply here! lol
I felt the same way about the subframe bushings!
@@an5ama5 I've already special ordered those subframe bushings from Volvo, they're coming from Sweden and will be here in a few weeks. But, when they arrive I think I'll take a pass on them, too! Looks like the wise thing to do. The other bushings - all Meyle - I already have from FCP Euro and I think I'll replace them one rod, trailing arm, etc. at a time.
@@bobjohnson205 if I could've figured out what to do with axle, I think I would've tried. If you drop and move the whole thing, it should be easy (nothing is easy). Good luck, send an update. Also, check eEuroparts, too.
@@an5ama5 Since I have all the new bushings (Meyle) that I need to do the upper & lower torque rods, and they look easy to do (?), I think I'll do those this week. I have one track rod bushing (Meyle), the other one from Volvo arrives in a couple of weeks. So, I'll do that one next. As for those other two bushings? If my original ones look fine when the new Volvo ones arrive in early October I think I'll just set them aside. I live in an area where salt is used on the roads from Nov. to April. So, that makes things even tougher. :(
Its pretty unreal how much worse this looks to do than a 240. I have a 240t with full spherical and delrin bushings and it was a cake walk to do most of that, but i recently got a 940t for a daily and i figured id just keep it stock. Seeing how much random fluff they added to the rear suspension design makes this look miserable to do. Cant wait
I just did a 940 and the hardest part is still the panhard bar. I still had to burn one out and cut the sleeve.
@@an5ama5 i dont have a bushing press so ive had to burn and cut every bushing out ive ever done lol. I was thinking to just buy the premade adjustable ipd panhard since the BNE panhard and torque rods on the 240 dropped in effortlessly
You did well
Thanks
Here is the link to the custom torque rods I used. I also installed a custom poly trans mount and a new set of motor mounts!
www.retroturbo.com/?product=rear-axle-control-arms-700-900
Retro turbo has anything you can think of! And their customer service is amazing!
awesome, I added to my folder of links. Thanks. Let me know how much vibration you get from the trans and motor mounts.
I clipped the curb in my 940 and bent the mount for the upper torque rod next to the differential I put the bolt in there but it keeps popping out and I've bent it back in place and it still keeps popping out I think it's a bushing issue I do not know I've missed two or three lifetimes already somebody pushing but I haven't had the time to put it in it became too cold
wow! I didn't know that damage could be done, must've been a hell of a drift!
@@an5ama5 I was going pretty fast didn't feel like anything to me but I guess it was more serious than I thought
So, instead of a bushing replacement I picked up new (renewed) upper/lower torque rods (with poly bushings pre-installed) from Retro Turbo for my 1995 Volvo 940T. If I'm just swapping the 2 rods out, do I need to disconnect everything (drive shaft, etc?)
No, you won't need to disconnect the drive shaft, but I did take the panhard bar off at the same time. The frame and axel were supported independently of each other so I could position it with my floor jacks.
I went back to watch the video and about half way through I can see that I in fact disconnected the drive shaft at the dif. I was going to replace the dif seal but decided it wasn't leaking enough. I'm not sure if that helped out hindered my repair. I just felt I should correct my earlier reply.
Can a 960 dashboard and Sterling rack work in a 740
I'm not sure about the steering rack (at all) but the physical dash board should fit. However, the climate control systems are different, most of the switch gear wiring is the same. Not sure if this is helpful to you
So, I go to pull my old torque rods out and wow are those bolts a pain! I'm stuck on the top torque rod bolt. (Highest one) there is no room for sockets and I live in the rust belt (ny) so the rust is strong! lol. So I'm stuck for the moment until I can get a proper wrench. (13/16) the 18mm's were easy tho! Any more advice? lol.
Yes! I used a long extension on my breaker bar so that I had some swing room in the wheel well. IIRC I was able to fit a box wrench jammed against the underside of the body on the inboard side. I'm in CT, I know your pain, we sand and salt EVERYTHING. I don't drive my 740 in the winter
EDIT check around 6:33 to see how I got the upper bolt
That sounds like a good idea and probably what I will end up doing. (Did not pull the wheels off yet) guess I'll have to, atleast on the passenger side. But my fuel lines are still in the way and I am not fond of bending them too far back. Did you have that problem on the outer side top bolt? Once again, I appreciate all your insight and help.
@@petemagnum2164 no, I do not recall having problems on the left side. I did most of the removal from the right-ish side and from beneath.
So, after letting it sit soaked in PB oil over night basically did the job! (That and a giant proper 13/16 wrench!) lol. The only struggle after that was getting the custom arms to line up but jacking up the rear end and some muscle pretty much solved that. (*the custom torque rods are new units with solid molded polyurethane bushings pre-installed.) This made things easier and stiffer! ;)
Again, thank you and look forward to future videos! Keep up the great work! "Keep the bricks alive!" lol. ;)