Thanks for all the support and amazing suggestions. Hope you enjoyed this video and if you want plans for any of these builds you can find them HERE: www.etsy.com/shop/BYOTools?ref=shop-header-name&listing_id=1669549403&from_page=listing
I really appreciate that you share these building techniques and the new materials, beca se I'm not able to attend trade shows anymore and I still like to see all the new things that are being made for construction purposes.
Love the video, downloaded the wrong size plans.. Brent made it right for me as soon as I asked Thanks! The plans were really straight forward even for a novice like me. Here's my pointers having just finished mine. Like I say, I'm new to this so take these with a grain of salt: - Height was a big limitation for me, as I want to be able to roll the unit onto a trailer, so had to cut a bit to keep it under 70", so I went with 4" casters, (5.15 total), but still lost a row, but I'm going to put custom shelves where the top row would be, so some long skinny bins can be loaded from the side. - -I made the posts just over 59” high. (64” Total wood Structure, 69”+ with wheels)The side effect of that is I could use one 4x4x12 and just cut it in half for 2 posts. - I just put a center screw in the studs at first on top and bottom. This helped with 2 things, making sure that all the gaps were fine as we moved into the middle, (Brent made them wider than prev plans to accommodate wider range of bins, and I have the skinniest bins). I had about an extra ¼ inch where I split the difference. Second advantage of of 1 center screw is when everything is perfectly spaced, you can then twist and make sure that the stud is perfect 90 degrees before locking it in place with 2nd/3rd screws. -I put the casters on after it was built, rather than midstream. For me, it was easier, because I could just put the 2 'walls' (front/back) on scrap 4x4. They stood up by themselves for the most part, then I could put the bottom side brace on a 4x4 too while I screwed it in. Then once it's in one sturdy piece, and could flip it to put on the casters. -For the tote support braces, I made them an even 28” vs. 28 ¼”. No need for full length, and besides if you’re not perfect on your cuts they could stick out. -Also for the tote support braces, I put in one side, then took a loose 2x3 board and just marked it, and then used that loose board to mark the other 12 stud sides. So only had to measure once, and marking the other 9, took less than a minute and guaranteed to be consistent. At the end I did just one horizontal line per stud (rather than each side.) -Also on the studs, if you assume your floor is level, you can just screw in one side with 1 screw, then place a level on the brace to decide the height for the brace on the opposite stud. That will even compensate if for some reason your structure isn’t perfectly plumb. -Also I will put a cross brace (front to back) halfway down under my center support 2x4. It’s just too weak in the middle if you happened to accidentally step on it. Anyway, super fun project, and great plans. Like I say this one is for loading up a trailer for events, I may build another one just for storage.
You should use a story pole to make your repeated marks. It is a piece of wood that you mark your layout on and then use it to transfer your marks for like the runners for your totes to the legs. It will increase your accuracy and speed up the marking process.
Great suggesting and just to give a little insight I did eventually use a stop block on a few cuts. Just not all of them and lucky for us all I don't film EVERY cut I make haha. Thanks for watching and the suggestion Michael.
Casters are generally rated for 3, not 4 wheels so when you have an uneven floor, its still strong enough. Great idea, although its a trade off for depth vs storage. Why not just build two of the narrow ones and leave them 2 deep(and get 40 totes of storage) and have flexibility if you want to move them around. It would be a little more expensive, but thats just something to take into account and you dont have to build them at the same time. You could even add magnets or just bolts between to keep them together if you wanted.
Thanks for the video! It was incredibly helpful-I followed along and built the whole thing! I bought the wood, cut it while watching the video, and everything came together perfectly. I also found a way to save about $70 on the build. Instead of using the 4 lateral 4x4s, I substituted them with a 2x4 on the bottom plate and another 2x4 on the side. Each 4x4 was $20, and each 6-inch screw cost $2, so this swap really added up in savings. The modification made the shelf 4 inches wider and 2 inches taller, which I realized wouldn’t fit in your basement. But it’s a great option for anyone without space restrictions!
That could be modified to make a work table for the garage. Make two units that are four boxes wide by one box deep by two boxes high. Put a work surface on both units. They could be rolled around and locked together to make a four box by two box table or a long eight box by one table. Having just found your channel, I haven't watched all your videos. So if you've already done this, ignore my comment. Cheers.
I bought the plans and made this, you need to put caster in the middle as well if you plan on having weight in bins. My whole system is bowed pretty bad. Not sure how imma fix it.
I downloaded and built two of the narrower types. Waiting for casters from Amazon. But looks promising. I’m embarrassed because I thought I would build two in like 6 hours. It took me nearly 10 lol.
I went on an "everything must be mobile" tear a few years ago, and believe it or not Grainger is where I got my casters. If you only buy what's on clearance, you'll likely end up with more caster than you need (nothing wrong with that) for cheaper than anywhere else. This was some time ago, so not sure if anything's changed, but they had such a huge selection ("mobile" is apparently a high priority in factories too, and their equipment tends to weigh a LOT) that I got impression there would always be at least some casters on clearance?
at 8:40 you have a 4x4 as a base center support (along with 2 2*4) and that is also in your material list page, yet the video also shows just 4x 2*4 R 9:17. Which do you recommend?
Awesome video! My son is still learning from you and my daughter is still interested in buying some old work shoes from you if you decide to sell any, for her clothing art sculpture. The worse shape, the better 👍👍 Thanks man 😊
Here's a tip for you, Home Depot will match and beat prices by 10%. The Home Depot totes, from a comparison video I watched here are said to be made of less brittle plastic than the Costco totes. If you are only using them on one of these storage shelves and then putting them back, it probably won't matter, but if you are pulling them off and transporting them around where they may take some abuse, the HD ones may be the better way to go, and if you want to pull up the price for the Costco and request the price match, it would even come out cheaper. Also, Costco near me often sells out of these, as they only carry the 27 gal, and then a 2-3 other translucent smaller totes.
I have something like this at my work with these same bins. The bins turnover frequently between large events and I’m trying to figure out a good way to keep them organized, items easy to find, and inventory spreadsheet. Any ideas?
😂, I had the same question. Or a 2 wide by 2 deep and 4 high rolling shelf. And make 2 of those. That way you don’t have to move a 32 bin shelf. You could move a 16 bin shelf easier. But you would have 2-16 bin shelves.
I just built this from the purchased plans, and I have a few thoughts: - Firstly, it's fantastic! - Secondly, the plans should probably be updated to reflect the option of the recommended 4x4x10 to achieve the horizontal frame rails, saving the cost of two 4x4x8's. The 44 HeadLOK screws doesn't take using them for the 2x4's stretching across the bottom. The video shows him using one on each end, but the plans show two. I'd get an extra box of 12 screws to account for these cross-members. - For the support braces I screwed up my measurement and measured 20 3/4 from the outside edge instead of the indicated measurement from the INSIDE edge. But when I was correcting that mistake I was using the bins themselves as spacers and instead of measuring to the center they were coming up 20 3/4 to the edge of the board (I did a video that shows this). It's entirely possible this slight difference was due to poor overall measuring and execution by me, but it was consistent on both support braces for the slides. - I cut some scrap 2x4's to the heights for the slide rails. Made marking easy and I used them to hold one end (clamped) while I screwed in the other. Took out a lot of margin-for-error for me. - Lastly, if you're not in a rush, hitting the edges of the sliderails with a roundover bit wouldn't be the worst idea and a good coat of paste wax on their top surface would be a nice addition too - I wish I'd thought of that when I was building it! (I might go back at some point and try to do at least the wax). Anyway, overall the plans were more-than-worth the asking price, but might need a bit of updating for the screw count and the 8' vs 10' 4x4 options.
Has anyone ever tested what weight the totes edges will hold stored like this before failing? Any ideas what the heaviest totes any of you have in the storage units you have built?
This is a GREAT question and gave me an amazing idea. I will for sure test these out in the near future. Thanks so much for the suggestion and will keep you posted. Any bets on which one will do the best?
I want to do this, but with the idea to spin the bins 90 deg., so they load from the "side" instead of the "edge" (the unit would be wider, and as long as you want to make it)? This way, if you had them side-by-side, you could do a "moving aisle" system? Or you could stack them edge-to-edge along a wall and still be able access all bins? Is this plan flawed?
Hi -We're moving soon and the "new" house has minimal usable storage. I'd like to buy the plans and build the storage unit, but my wife would like to have half of them be the Home Depot clear 40-gallon tote that has wheels. I'd do 16 on one half (front and back) and the regular Costco totes on the other half. Could you give me advice on how to adjust the measurements for the slightly-larger "160 qt Wheeled Storage Box", which is 37" x 21.25" x 17.75"?
Could you do a rack that can hold the 57 gallon HDX totes from Home Depot? Five totes high on casters? They would need to be loaded from the side in order to maximize the load bearing I think. Front loading may put too much stress on the totes themselves and cause bowing of the tote in the middle.
This works fine for empty totes but fully loaded ones are a different story without getting fingers pinched or reaching for a heavy load over your head with a moving housing unit going in the opposite direction. Also the plastic behaves differently in a very hot compared to a below freezing garage.
Ok I bought the down load but the file is not correct. I am unable to download it in the adobe to print it. I tried to save it in other formats but all the programs are saying the format is invalid
I've built my first rectangle and it's not square, but I don't know how to fix it. All the pieces are the correct measurement, and all the boards are flush to the outside edge of each board. One side is 115 7/8 and the other measurement is 116 7/8. is this because the wood warping?
I was like 'holy crap that's expensive' but then I realized this was last year and lumber went up quite a bit. If you built it today lumber wouldn't be as much.
Wow 445 dollars to store 32 totes. It’s crazy how expensive lumber has gotten, it doesn’t even make sense to build shelves when you could buy steel ones for the same price.
Hmm. Wow. Genius. But......why would a person need that many Totes? I mean, you got 52 right there and 14-15 all the way in the back. I get it, none of my business, but 66 to 70 big Totes???? But hey, if you like it I love it.
They are called shelves. Look into them. they even come with casters as an option. THIS is just silly. You are obsessed with hanging them. That is the silliest and non effective way to do it. Plus it distorts them and takes away from their strength and caring capacity. Not to mention that you have to completely takin it out if you wanna get a good look inside. Just making shelfs not only give you greater configuration, like stacking two smaller tote on a larger tote, but you can decide to not even put a toe in a slot and use it to place large tools. Again this is just a bunch of silliness and way over thinking things. There is absolutely no advantage to doing this, over just making selves.
Thanks for all the support and amazing suggestions. Hope you enjoyed this video and if you want plans for any of these builds you can find them HERE: www.etsy.com/shop/BYOTools?ref=shop-header-name&listing_id=1669549403&from_page=listing
What software are you using please?
I really appreciate that you share these building techniques and the new materials, beca se I'm not able to attend trade shows anymore and I still like to see all the new things that are being made for construction purposes.
Love this!! If my garage ever gets full enough to need one of these, it's time for a garage sale. Lol
LOL! A very true statement. I'm trying to push off renting a shop or buying a warehouse as long as possible haha! Thanks for watching.
Love the video, downloaded the wrong size plans.. Brent made it right for me as soon as I asked Thanks!
The plans were really straight forward even for a novice like me. Here's my pointers having just finished mine. Like I say, I'm new to this so take these with a grain of salt:
- Height was a big limitation for me, as I want to be able to roll the unit onto a trailer, so had to cut a bit to keep it under 70", so I went with 4" casters, (5.15 total), but still lost a row, but I'm going to put custom shelves where the top row would be, so some long skinny bins can be loaded from the side. -
-I made the posts just over 59” high. (64” Total wood Structure, 69”+ with wheels)The side effect of that is I could use one 4x4x12 and just cut it in half for 2 posts.
- I just put a center screw in the studs at first on top and bottom. This helped with 2 things, making sure that all the gaps were fine as we moved into the middle, (Brent made them wider than prev plans to accommodate wider range of bins, and I have the skinniest bins). I had about an extra ¼ inch where I split the difference. Second advantage of of 1 center screw is when everything is perfectly spaced, you can then twist and make sure that the stud is perfect 90 degrees before locking it in place with 2nd/3rd screws.
-I put the casters on after it was built, rather than midstream. For me, it was easier, because I could just put the 2 'walls' (front/back) on scrap 4x4. They stood up by themselves for the most part, then I could put the bottom side brace on a 4x4 too while I screwed it in. Then once it's in one sturdy piece, and could flip it to put on the casters.
-For the tote support braces, I made them an even 28” vs. 28 ¼”. No need for full length, and besides if you’re not perfect on your cuts they could stick out.
-Also for the tote support braces, I put in one side, then took a loose 2x3 board and just marked it, and then used that loose board to mark the other 12 stud sides. So only had to measure once, and marking the other 9, took less than a minute and guaranteed to be consistent. At the end I did just one horizontal line per stud (rather than each side.)
-Also on the studs, if you assume your floor is level, you can just screw in one side with 1 screw, then place a level on the brace to decide the height for the brace on the opposite stud. That will even compensate if for some reason your structure isn’t perfectly plumb.
-Also I will put a cross brace (front to back) halfway down under my center support 2x4. It’s just too weak in the middle if you happened to accidentally step on it.
Anyway, super fun project, and great plans. Like I say this one is for loading up a trailer for events, I may build another one just for storage.
You should use a story pole to make your repeated marks. It is a piece of wood that you mark your layout on and then use it to transfer your marks for like the runners for your totes to the legs. It will increase your accuracy and speed up the marking process.
Great suggesting and just to give a little insight I did eventually use a stop block on a few cuts. Just not all of them and lucky for us all I don't film EVERY cut I make haha. Thanks for watching and the suggestion Michael.
Casters are generally rated for 3, not 4 wheels so when you have an uneven floor, its still strong enough.
Great idea, although its a trade off for depth vs storage. Why not just build two of the narrow ones and leave them 2 deep(and get 40 totes of storage) and have flexibility if you want to move them around. It would be a little more expensive, but thats just something to take into account and you dont have to build them at the same time. You could even add magnets or just bolts between to keep them together if you wanted.
Thanks for the video! It was incredibly helpful-I followed along and built the whole thing! I bought the wood, cut it while watching the video, and everything came together perfectly.
I also found a way to save about $70 on the build. Instead of using the 4 lateral 4x4s, I substituted them with a 2x4 on the bottom plate and another 2x4 on the side. Each 4x4 was $20, and each 6-inch screw cost $2, so this swap really added up in savings.
The modification made the shelf 4 inches wider and 2 inches taller, which I realized wouldn’t fit in your basement. But it’s a great option for anyone without space restrictions!
Love your videos, after a long week at work I jump on UA-cam and wait for your next project. Keep up the great vids! 👏🏻
Love hearing that Max. Truly appriciate your continued support and thanks so much for watching.
That could be modified to make a work table for the garage. Make two units that are four boxes wide by one box deep by two boxes high. Put a work surface on both units. They could be rolled around and locked together to make a four box by two box table or a long eight box by one table. Having just found your channel, I haven't watched all your videos. So if you've already done this, ignore my comment. Cheers.
I built the single row version myself after seeing your video.
I bought the plans and made this, you need to put caster in the middle as well if you plan on having weight in bins. My whole system is bowed pretty bad. Not sure how imma fix it.
I downloaded and built two of the narrower types. Waiting for casters from Amazon. But looks promising. I’m embarrassed because I thought I would build two in like 6 hours. It took me nearly 10 lol.
I went on an "everything must be mobile" tear a few years ago, and believe it or not Grainger is where I got my casters. If you only buy what's on clearance, you'll likely end up with more caster than you need (nothing wrong with that) for cheaper than anywhere else. This was some time ago, so not sure if anything's changed, but they had such a huge selection ("mobile" is apparently a high priority in factories too, and their equipment tends to weigh a LOT) that I got impression there would always be at least some casters on clearance?
at 8:40 you have a 4x4 as a base center support (along with 2 2*4) and that is also in your material list page, yet the video also shows just 4x 2*4 R 9:17. Which do you recommend?
Awesome video! My son is still learning from you and my daughter is still interested in buying some old work shoes from you if you decide to sell any, for her clothing art sculpture. The worse shape, the better 👍👍 Thanks man 😊
Here's a tip for you, Home Depot will match and beat prices by 10%. The Home Depot totes, from a comparison video I watched here are said to be made of less brittle plastic than the Costco totes. If you are only using them on one of these storage shelves and then putting them back, it probably won't matter, but if you are pulling them off and transporting them around where they may take some abuse, the HD ones may be the better way to go, and if you want to pull up the price for the Costco and request the price match, it would even come out cheaper. Also, Costco near me often sells out of these, as they only carry the 27 gal, and then a 2-3 other translucent smaller totes.
Yayy, new video! 🎉
Thanks so much for watching.
Great video exactly what I am looking for. What software are you using to design and spit out the cut list?
I have something like this at my work with these same bins. The bins turnover frequently between large events and I’m trying to figure out a good way to keep them organized, items easy to find, and inventory spreadsheet.
Any ideas?
where did you buy your knee pads thanksJohnny
How about something for smaller 5 gallon bins?
Can I add another layer to the top? I have more space? Will the base and casters hold another layer of totes?
I’m building this but a miniature version to fit 12 totes and ima take it 2 tote high so I can put a work table on top
😂, I had the same question. Or a 2 wide by 2 deep and 4 high rolling shelf. And make 2 of those. That way you don’t have to move a 32 bin shelf. You could move a 16 bin shelf easier. But you would have 2-16 bin shelves.
I just built this from the purchased plans, and I have a few thoughts:
- Firstly, it's fantastic!
- Secondly, the plans should probably be updated to reflect the option of the recommended 4x4x10 to achieve the horizontal frame rails, saving the cost of two 4x4x8's. The 44 HeadLOK screws doesn't take using them for the 2x4's stretching across the bottom. The video shows him using one on each end, but the plans show two. I'd get an extra box of 12 screws to account for these cross-members.
- For the support braces I screwed up my measurement and measured 20 3/4 from the outside edge instead of the indicated measurement from the INSIDE edge. But when I was correcting that mistake I was using the bins themselves as spacers and instead of measuring to the center they were coming up 20 3/4 to the edge of the board (I did a video that shows this). It's entirely possible this slight difference was due to poor overall measuring and execution by me, but it was consistent on both support braces for the slides.
- I cut some scrap 2x4's to the heights for the slide rails. Made marking easy and I used them to hold one end (clamped) while I screwed in the other. Took out a lot of margin-for-error for me.
- Lastly, if you're not in a rush, hitting the edges of the sliderails with a roundover bit wouldn't be the worst idea and a good coat of paste wax on their top surface would be a nice addition too - I wish I'd thought of that when I was building it! (I might go back at some point and try to do at least the wax).
Anyway, overall the plans were more-than-worth the asking price, but might need a bit of updating for the screw count and the 8' vs 10' 4x4 options.
What program did you use to create your project diagram?
Has anyone ever tested what weight the totes edges will hold stored like this before failing? Any ideas what the heaviest totes any of you have in the storage units you have built?
This is a GREAT question and gave me an amazing idea. I will for sure test these out in the near future. Thanks so much for the suggestion and will keep you posted. Any bets on which one will do the best?
I want to do this, but with the idea to spin the bins 90 deg., so they load from the "side" instead of the "edge" (the unit would be wider, and as long as you want to make it)? This way,
if you had them side-by-side, you could do a "moving aisle" system? Or you could stack them edge-to-edge along a wall and still be able access all bins? Is this plan flawed?
Hi -We're moving soon and the "new" house has minimal usable storage. I'd like to buy the plans and build the storage unit, but my wife would like to have half of them be the Home Depot clear 40-gallon tote that has wheels. I'd do 16 on one half (front and back) and the regular Costco totes on the other half. Could you give me advice on how to adjust the measurements for the slightly-larger "160 qt Wheeled Storage Box", which is 37" x 21.25" x 17.75"?
so how many of those ripped 2x6s twisted out of control once you released the tension.
Would have been good to warn the viewers that it could definitely happen.
Could you do a rack that can hold the 57 gallon HDX totes from Home Depot? Five totes high on casters? They would need to be loaded from the side in order to maximize the load bearing I think. Front loading may put too much stress on the totes themselves and cause bowing of the tote in the middle.
What is the approximate number of hours
If you want quality and safety this is how you do it. It was expensive but you get what you pay for in most cases.
This works fine for empty totes but fully loaded ones are a different story without getting fingers pinched or reaching for a heavy load over your head with a moving housing unit going in the opposite direction. Also the plastic behaves differently in a very hot compared to a below freezing garage.
Don’t put heavy loads up top?
Board split at 8:59 - any suggestions on preventing this?
Pre-drill the wood.
Ok I bought the down load but the file is not correct. I am unable to download it in the adobe to print it. I tried to save it in other formats but all the programs are saying the format is invalid
I've built my first rectangle and it's not square, but I don't know how to fix it. All the pieces are the correct measurement, and all the boards are flush to the outside edge of each board. One side is 115 7/8 and the other measurement is 116 7/8. is this because the wood warping?
Use a square to square then, then flush cut the overhangs off
I was like 'holy crap that's expensive' but then I realized this was last year and lumber went up quite a bit. If you built it today lumber wouldn't be as much.
how does it move if it is too heavy?
This crazy thing called “casters”
Nice bane mask 😂
"You merely adapted to the Darkness. I was BORN in it. MOLDED by it!" LOL!
What happened to using the metric system 🤪
Wow 445 dollars to store 32 totes. It’s crazy how expensive lumber has gotten, it doesn’t even make sense to build shelves when you could buy steel ones for the same price.
My exact thought
Custom is always more costly
@@johnq2068but DIY should be cheaper.
I would have just put 2 single shelf units back to back
Bro built a storage unit on casters 😅
Yes that is the concept haha! Thanks so much for watching.
1:50
If stacking storage is your solution, you probably don't have space to turn something this big around in the first place.
🙏👏👍💪
Thanks so much for all your support :)
Bro got all this organization but still no room for a car in the garage
Hmm. Wow. Genius. But......why would a person need that many Totes? I mean, you got 52 right there and 14-15 all the way in the back. I get it, none of my business, but 66 to 70 big Totes???? But hey, if you like it I love it.
I’m an organisational nut, so this speaks to me!
@@marcharvey4114 ...LOL. If you like it, I love it.
They are called shelves. Look into them. they even come with casters as an option. THIS is just silly. You are obsessed with hanging them. That is the silliest and non effective way to do it. Plus it distorts them and takes away from their strength and caring capacity. Not to mention that you have to completely takin it out if you wanna get a good look inside.
Just making shelfs not only give you greater configuration, like stacking two smaller tote on a larger tote, but you can decide to not even put a toe in a slot and use it to place large tools.
Again this is just a bunch of silliness and way over thinking things. There is absolutely no advantage to doing this, over just making selves.