Looking for the Sonic Pad and would like to support my work with these in depth videos? Check the links below, as an Amazon associate I may earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you) Creality Sonic Pad: ► amzn.to/41nxivK To support my work and purchase the Sonic Pad extrusion mount, you can find it here: ► embracemaking.com/products/creality-sonic-pad-adjustable-tilt-mount-for-extrusion Maybe instead you would like a double sided PEI flex plate for your Ender 5 S1: ► embracemaking.com/products/creality-ender-5-ender-5-s1-pei-magnetic-flex-build-plate-systems Or perhaps you have an Ender 3 / Ender 3 S1 / Ender 3 S1 PRO: ► embracemaking.com/products/creality-ender-3-pei-magnetic-flex-build-plate-systems Free design files: Sonic Pad Mount: ► www.printables.com/model/471818-creality-sonic-pad-adjustable-mount-for-extrusion Fan Grill with Sensor Mount: ► www.printables.com/model/478604-creality-ender-5-s1-fan-grill-and-sonic-pad-accele A few other cool tools and things for 3D printer enthusiasts: Electric Screwdriver: ► amzn.to/3JRbbZe Velcro Tie Wrap Rolls ► amzn.to/42jr3dX
THANK YOU for walking through Prusaslicer with the Sonic Pad use. I'm sure there's a ton of documentation out there but for someone new to the space it's a little disheartening to see people zooming through some complex (or what appear to be complex) things in this space that you don't know if you don't know and many 3D printing gurus on UA-cam just assume the user knows everything they know. I know there's still a bit to dial in and there will be updates to any software like Prusaslicer or firmware for the Sonic Pad itself but it all felt pointless if I didn't have the baseline system lined up to roll. You the man
Just printed the sensor bracket you have, the top plate is to deep. by about 5-7 mm. so when you tighten it , it hit the nozzle in the back and buckles. My ender 5 s1 is less than a week old. had to print a second one with out the top flange to use as a spacer. to correct the to deep plate.
Thanks for the in depth. I'm still going back and forth on getting the pad for my stock 5+. Hoping to get good info on being able to push my stock 70-80mm/s speed to 120+mm/s with minimal loss
Great video, you gave me details the others didn't. I couldn't use the mount though, cause I have the acrylic enclosure and it blocks the door. Also I noticed that Prusa Slicer has been crashing my printers and have since switched to Orca Slicer, I wish you had a video on that.
I'm about to fit my Sonic Pad to an Ender 5 S1. How do I tell which version of the printer I have? (you mention a limit switch in the video). In the manual, it mentions opening up the printer to check the motherboard chip model?! Thanks.
At the bottom of the z axis the old (original release) of the Ender 5 S1 has a limit switch. The printer would home downwards first. The latest version doesn't have one, it homes up with the cr touch module I believe
@@EmbraceMaking Thank you for making this video and for your very quick reply to my question. It was very useful - more so that the official manual. Your build video for this printer shows the z switch very clearly. Creality do provide an STL for a sensor mount. I guess we can remove the sensor once the resonance tests are finished. I've moved the ABL probe to get rid of the left hand side high error with these printers too.
Hello, first of all thank you for the video. Don't I have to enter the start and end G code? Can I also adopt the speed settings for the ender 3 s1 or is that not possible? Could you make a video with all your settings please, that would be very nice
Do you happen to know how to get the images of what you are printing to display on the sonic pad like you can with Curaslicer? Making the switch to Prusaslicer and that was a nice feature to have on the sonic pad.
Quick question for you--I tried translating some of the quicker speeds that the Creality app auto-input for the Ender 3 S1 + Sonic Pad setup but when I use my old settings for the print settings and the printer settings respectively and compare that to the newer settings I set up for the sonic pad the slicer shows basically the same ETA. Any thoughts there? I downloaded the alpha6 release of PrusaSlicer 2.6.0 to try and am coming up with the same results, even when changing to the Klipper flavor. TIA!
Could be a few things holding it back. If the part is very small (like a little calibration cube or something) it could be some of your cooling settings in the materials tab. So you have a minimum layer time that can be set ... this sometimes limits the speed. Also, check materials tab (I think in the advanced section) that you don't have a really small volumetric flow rate set. That can also limit your print speed. Lastly, check in the print settings tab under speed that you don't have any of the advanced acceleration controls set that would otherwise be limiting your speeds as well.
This is all fine and dandy but my concern is. This tutorial is based on from my perception that all printers are stock. I have an ender 3 with a btt ek3mini v2. Will this process work on this board as well?
To do it on a custom board you can try this video here from Creality: drive.google.com/file/d/1clfsG1j02ytYVg-xbYXzW24mpHRieRpI/view Also, someone here (scroll to the bottom of the comments) made a printer.cfg file for the skr mini e3 v3: www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/10xlaou/help_with_skr_mini_e3_v3_and_creality_sonic_pad/
RE: 32:00, I sort of agree with this - My sonic pad does not arrive until tomorrow, and I think one limitation that I may not be concerned with unless I have an issue is the inability to stay up to date with Klipper for firmware. Maybe I'm incorrect in this, but I thought I had read that the Sonic Pad was using an older version of the Klipper board firmware, so if I had issues that I thought a later version would address I would be SOL. I still consider myself new to 3d printing, but am pretty familiar with SBCs and would be comfortable with flashing the motherboard myself, using my orange pi 5 that's currently running OctoPrint only as the SBC for Klipper. When I started figuring in the cost of a better screen to replace my stock one to prepare for Klipper, trying to find or design a decent screen mount to match my Ender 6 which is less common, an accelerometer to ease the tuning, and that I think I only want Klipper for the input shaping and to get around some annoying stock firmware issues, I decided to pull the trigger on the Sonic Pad. I don't think I'll regret it, if I do I get the feeling I can get around it, and agree that it's not a Sonic Pad hardware limitation, but as far as I have read it is a Sonic Pad software limitation.
FYI the other day I got a notification on my Sonic Pad about a software update and it mentioned something about using the latest version (open source?) version of Klipper... honestly I didn't really look into it closely and I just accepted the update. Functionally I haven't noticed a change but it did seem like the message indicated it was an up to date version for what its worth.
i wish i could get my sonic pad working, I've been trying to for over 2 weeks now, I'm almost ready to just send it back. i fix one problem and another comes up. i cant even print now i get a move out of range error like 30 seconds into a print.
Great dive. I also get a lot of network disconnects when transmitting larger gcode files to the SP. However, by copying them and then starting the print from the file selector in Mainsail, the prints succeed.
The .05 z-offset is strange. I've been printing a first layer calibration after the z offset calibration. Then you can dial it in with .01 increments and it saves the value after the print completes. Still very new to the pad and I have no Creality printers. The SV06 Plus was easy to setup but I'm having difficulty with my MK3s. I'm close so hopefully a day or two of tweaking. And for last I'll try a modified Tevo Tornado which will be my worst not many examples with the MKS SGEN_L board to go off of.
This would be EXTREMELY interesting to see tested on a CR-10 Smart, as I have seen people say it's night and day, to the point of extremely higher quality results and thus speeds. So I have to wonder what it does with a CR-10 Smart that has LGX Lite and linear rails (for X and Y at least) like the 3DFused ones. Would probably take it from a 40-50mm/s to 75 and up, and completely eliminating the machine-shakes.
From my limited experience with the sonic pad on a CR-10 Smart the prints are definitely better out of the box. A bit faster as well, I'm sure with some tuning it will be even better.
I recently did a CR10 smart video where I converted it over to SKR mini control board and now uses a regular CR touch... I also have a Big Tree Tech "Pad 7" (basically their version of sonic pad) and I'm working on a video showing that :) so in some ways I have a CR10 smart klipper video coming soon!
@@EmbraceMaking can't wait to see the btt pad 7 on it, been looking at it lately and it's impressive. Sure, it's not as "user friendly" for people to quickly get into like the plug n play nature of the sonic pad, but price to performance seems to be something else. I think the deterrent for many at that point will be overall cost accumulated to the point where the BTT pad 7 is the obvious clear choice, as you're probably quite quite far away from factory setup when that point is reached. Same reason many want the BL/CR touch but can't bring themselves to get it because of all the other requirements to run it and thus the cost. Taking into account the low price of the cr-10 smart and effectively doubling the price of it with new parts 😂 but that's not stopping most of us lol
That's a calibration sheet that came with a Qidi brand printer. It's more durable than paper but is more or less the same thickness... never had an issue with regular white printer paper though... is it not working for you?
The Sonic Pad does look an easy way to set up Klipper for my Ender 3 S1, much easier then trying to put together a raspberry pi, touch screen and klipper software.
Thanks for the video. Can I use a normal USB to USB-C cable? I did not receive the package without a USB-c adaptor. Some persons said that you must cover the positive port of the USB cable to prevent damage to the Creality board.
Excelente video! Me acabo de comprar una Sonic Pad para conectar mi Sovol04 IDEX. Es una muy buena impresora y la tengo al máximo de velocidad/calidad. Yo imprimo mucha cosa hecha con Grasshopper/Rhinoceros y estoy seguro que podré bajar los tiempos manteniendo la calidad de las impresiones. El Marlin para mi está ultrapasado además quiero el Sonic Pad para conectar al router y poder tenerlo en una IP, esto de estar conectado vía USB/SD Card, para mi, es completamente improductivo para mi workflow. Saludos desde Barcelona! Keep pushing!
At 10:20 you direct us to choose octoprint as the host type. Will this choice (octoprint) only work if you have an octoprint account? I do not an account, and the test button came back with an "unable to connect to host" error message. Thanks for any help you can give me!
You shouldn't need any account. I didn't have to type in any credentials associated with Octoprint. It's probably just using the same file transfer method / protocol as Octoprint so that's why you select it. If you aren't getting a connection try going into the network connections on the sonic pad, force the disconnect from your network and then try reconnecting again 30 seconds later. Sometimes it's like one of those silly "turn it off, turn it back on" type things before it works. Also, I found the connection to be more reliable after setting up the Sonic pad with a static IP using my router settings.
@@EmbraceMaking Woo-hoo! Your suggestion ("turn it off, turn it back on") did the trick! Also, getting a static IP address is definitely a good idea. It makes the process of getting a file from your slicer to your printer easier and faster! Thanks for your help.
Yes there are ways to make it work. You will have to do a little more research though as it likely won't just be "plug and play" like a regular creality printer. What BTT board do you have?
I am running into so many issues right now and I just got the ender 5 s1 sonic pad bundle, I have restored to factory settings and recalibrated and Switched out the usb-c cable and it still stops mid print and keeps giving the Klippy shutdown error due to disconnect from mcu, I tried to reset my 3D printer so I can use it with out the Sonic pad and I can’t, when I flashed the firmware to use only the 3D printer and I hit the reheat the printer Reboots and loops in restarting so it won’t heat if I try to not use the sonic pad. This has been THE worst experience for me and now waiting for Creality to respond to help me resolve bc it’s a brand new purchase and it’s complete trash imo.
Did you get this resolved yet? I know you said you switched out the USB cable but I'm wondering if your USB port on your mainboard isn't making good contact. I noticed mine looks pretty loose... I haven't had any disconnects yet but I'm always keeping an eye on it especially with the printer shaking around at high speeds.
I got one and it has never worked and Crealirty customer support sux. 4 Months of back and forth I have perched NEW CABLES AND SD CARDS AND PRINTED SEVERAL CLIPS TO HOLD ALL THE CONNECTORS TIGHT LIKE THEY TOLD ME TOO. I SENT THEM VIDEOS OF IT FAILING AND COPYS ON WERE I PERCHED IT AND THEY REFUSE TO REPLACE THEI BAD PRODUCT. IF I WERE YOU I WOULD QUIT HELPING THESE PEOPLE RIP PEOPLE OFF.
I don't know. The sonic pad has been a nightmare for me. Ive been printing for 4 years, and have never had issues, like build plate scraping, until I started using this thing. It's like it autolevels then immediately ignores the results. I have to set the z offset to a whopping 0.35 just to keep it from carving up the plate, and it still trashes most prints. Doing a factory reset and carefully going to every step, tweaking everything a perfectly as possible didn't help at all. It seems the sonic pad is really great for some printers and a nightmare for others. They clearly didn't test this on every printer they claim it supports. Be careful and do your research before buying. If I had read all of the posts about leveling issues I never would have bought this thing.
Looking for the Sonic Pad and would like to support my work with these in depth videos? Check the links below, as an Amazon associate I may earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you)
Creality Sonic Pad:
► amzn.to/41nxivK
To support my work and purchase the Sonic Pad extrusion mount, you can find it here:
► embracemaking.com/products/creality-sonic-pad-adjustable-tilt-mount-for-extrusion
Maybe instead you would like a double sided PEI flex plate for your Ender 5 S1:
► embracemaking.com/products/creality-ender-5-ender-5-s1-pei-magnetic-flex-build-plate-systems
Or perhaps you have an Ender 3 / Ender 3 S1 / Ender 3 S1 PRO:
► embracemaking.com/products/creality-ender-3-pei-magnetic-flex-build-plate-systems
Free design files:
Sonic Pad Mount:
► www.printables.com/model/471818-creality-sonic-pad-adjustable-mount-for-extrusion
Fan Grill with Sensor Mount:
► www.printables.com/model/478604-creality-ender-5-s1-fan-grill-and-sonic-pad-accele
A few other cool tools and things for 3D printer enthusiasts:
Electric Screwdriver:
► amzn.to/3JRbbZe
Velcro Tie Wrap Rolls
► amzn.to/42jr3dX
Great Vid Only issue I have is stringing on PLA which some of my profiles seem to eliminate? I cannot for the life of me see what is different?
THANK YOU for walking through Prusaslicer with the Sonic Pad use. I'm sure there's a ton of documentation out there but for someone new to the space it's a little disheartening to see people zooming through some complex (or what appear to be complex) things in this space that you don't know if you don't know and many 3D printing gurus on UA-cam just assume the user knows everything they know. I know there's still a bit to dial in and there will be updates to any software like Prusaslicer or firmware for the Sonic Pad itself but it all felt pointless if I didn't have the baseline system lined up to roll. You the man
Glad you found it useful!
Just printed the sensor bracket you have, the top plate is to deep. by about 5-7 mm. so when you tighten it , it hit the nozzle in the back and buckles. My ender 5 s1 is less than a week old. had to print a second one with out the top flange to use as a spacer. to correct the to deep plate.
You've been the one to answer every question I had about my Sonic Pad. Thanks so much. Subscribed!
Welcome aboard! Glad you enjoyed the video and I have more sonic pad content planned!
@@EmbraceMaking Love to hear that! I'll try to be patient. 🤓
Hi there, any chance you can make a video on how to conect the sonic pad to the upgraded CR-10 Smart with Cr-touch and skr mini v3.0 that you made?
I can look into that. Just working on the CR6-SE video right now and then can look into klipper!
@@EmbraceMaking Thanks!
There is a plastic film over the screen. Peel it off and you don't have to worry about scratching the glass.
Wow, you're right. It was on there so perfect and no usual "pull tab" that I never would have even noticed! Thanks!
@@EmbraceMaking 👍
Thank you. It is so hard to see and you really have to struggle to catch the edge of it without using metal but it is there.
Thanks for the in depth. I'm still going back and forth on getting the pad for my stock 5+. Hoping to get good info on being able to push my stock 70-80mm/s speed to 120+mm/s with minimal loss
I just got a Sonic pad this video have been a god send Thank you! Much needed!
Glad I could help!
Great video, you gave me details the others didn't. I couldn't use the mount though, cause I have the acrylic enclosure and it blocks the door. Also I noticed that Prusa Slicer has been crashing my printers and have since switched to Orca Slicer, I wish you had a video on that.
I'm about to fit my Sonic Pad to an Ender 5 S1. How do I tell which version of the printer I have? (you mention a limit switch in the video). In the manual, it mentions opening up the printer to check the motherboard chip model?! Thanks.
At the bottom of the z axis the old (original release) of the Ender 5 S1 has a limit switch. The printer would home downwards first. The latest version doesn't have one, it homes up with the cr touch module I believe
@@EmbraceMaking Thank you for making this video and for your very quick reply to my question. It was very useful - more so that the official manual. Your build video for this printer shows the z switch very clearly. Creality do provide an STL for a sensor mount. I guess we can remove the sensor once the resonance tests are finished. I've moved the ABL probe to get rid of the left hand side high error with these printers too.
Hello, first of all thank you for the video.
Don't I have to enter the start and end G code? Can I also adopt the speed settings for the ender 3 s1 or is that not possible? Could you make a video with all your settings please, that would be very nice
Do you happen to know how to get the images of what you are printing to display on the sonic pad like you can with Curaslicer? Making the switch to Prusaslicer and that was a nice feature to have on the sonic pad.
Give this a try: www.reddit.com/r/CrealitySonicPad/comments/zt0ea9/heres_how_to_get_thumbnails_to_show_up_on_your/
Quick question for you--I tried translating some of the quicker speeds that the Creality app auto-input for the Ender 3 S1 + Sonic Pad setup but when I use my old settings for the print settings and the printer settings respectively and compare that to the newer settings I set up for the sonic pad the slicer shows basically the same ETA. Any thoughts there? I downloaded the alpha6 release of PrusaSlicer 2.6.0 to try and am coming up with the same results, even when changing to the Klipper flavor. TIA!
Could be a few things holding it back. If the part is very small (like a little calibration cube or something) it could be some of your cooling settings in the materials tab. So you have a minimum layer time that can be set ... this sometimes limits the speed. Also, check materials tab (I think in the advanced section) that you don't have a really small volumetric flow rate set. That can also limit your print speed. Lastly, check in the print settings tab under speed that you don't have any of the advanced acceleration controls set that would otherwise be limiting your speeds as well.
This is all fine and dandy but my concern is. This tutorial is based on from my perception that all printers are stock. I have an ender 3 with a btt ek3mini v2. Will this process work on this board as well?
To do it on a custom board you can try this video here from Creality: drive.google.com/file/d/1clfsG1j02ytYVg-xbYXzW24mpHRieRpI/view
Also, someone here (scroll to the bottom of the comments) made a printer.cfg file for the skr mini e3 v3: www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/10xlaou/help_with_skr_mini_e3_v3_and_creality_sonic_pad/
RE: 32:00, I sort of agree with this - My sonic pad does not arrive until tomorrow, and I think one limitation that I may not be concerned with unless I have an issue is the inability to stay up to date with Klipper for firmware. Maybe I'm incorrect in this, but I thought I had read that the Sonic Pad was using an older version of the Klipper board firmware, so if I had issues that I thought a later version would address I would be SOL. I still consider myself new to 3d printing, but am pretty familiar with SBCs and would be comfortable with flashing the motherboard myself, using my orange pi 5 that's currently running OctoPrint only as the SBC for Klipper. When I started figuring in the cost of a better screen to replace my stock one to prepare for Klipper, trying to find or design a decent screen mount to match my Ender 6 which is less common, an accelerometer to ease the tuning, and that I think I only want Klipper for the input shaping and to get around some annoying stock firmware issues, I decided to pull the trigger on the Sonic Pad. I don't think I'll regret it, if I do I get the feeling I can get around it, and agree that it's not a Sonic Pad hardware limitation, but as far as I have read it is a Sonic Pad software limitation.
FYI the other day I got a notification on my Sonic Pad about a software update and it mentioned something about using the latest version (open source?) version of Klipper... honestly I didn't really look into it closely and I just accepted the update. Functionally I haven't noticed a change but it did seem like the message indicated it was an up to date version for what its worth.
Great video. Could you please tell how do you know if you have the printer with or without Z-switch??? Thx a lot. EX
Thanks! Mine is the one with the z switch at the bottom
can you make a video a share the settings of you print
i wish i could get my sonic pad working, I've been trying to for over 2 weeks now, I'm almost ready to just send it back. i fix one problem and another comes up. i cant even print now i get a move out of range error like 30 seconds into a print.
Is there a CURA Equivelent to "Machine Limits"?
I brother I try to change maximum acceleration , but when I start print in the sonic pad change and return to 500ms how can I fix?
Great dive. I also get a lot of network disconnects when transmitting larger gcode files to the SP. However, by copying them and then starting the print from the file selector in Mainsail, the prints succeed.
I printed your file and the flap the screws go through came off in my hand as i held it ... others printed successfully what am i doing wrong ..
changed orientation on bed .. much better
The .05 z-offset is strange. I've been printing a first layer calibration after the z offset calibration. Then you can dial it in with .01 increments and it saves the value after the print completes. Still very new to the pad and I have no Creality printers. The SV06 Plus was easy to setup but I'm having difficulty with my MK3s. I'm close so hopefully a day or two of tweaking. And for last I'll try a modified Tevo Tornado which will be my worst not many examples with the MKS SGEN_L board to go off of.
Yeah I noticed that after the live adjust as well, kind of weird they did it that way
This would be EXTREMELY interesting to see tested on a CR-10 Smart, as I have seen people say it's night and day, to the point of extremely higher quality results and thus speeds. So I have to wonder what it does with a CR-10 Smart that has LGX Lite and linear rails (for X and Y at least) like the 3DFused ones. Would probably take it from a 40-50mm/s to 75 and up, and completely eliminating the machine-shakes.
From my limited experience with the sonic pad on a CR-10 Smart the prints are definitely better out of the box. A bit faster as well, I'm sure with some tuning it will be even better.
I recently did a CR10 smart video where I converted it over to SKR mini control board and now uses a regular CR touch... I also have a Big Tree Tech "Pad 7" (basically their version of sonic pad) and I'm working on a video showing that :) so in some ways I have a CR10 smart klipper video coming soon!
@@EmbraceMaking can't wait to see the btt pad 7 on it, been looking at it lately and it's impressive. Sure, it's not as "user friendly" for people to quickly get into like the plug n play nature of the sonic pad, but price to performance seems to be something else. I think the deterrent for many at that point will be overall cost accumulated to the point where the BTT pad 7 is the obvious clear choice, as you're probably quite quite far away from factory setup when that point is reached. Same reason many want the BL/CR touch but can't bring themselves to get it because of all the other requirements to run it and thus the cost. Taking into account the low price of the cr-10 smart and effectively doubling the price of it with new parts 😂 but that's not stopping most of us lol
I would like to see this too, as I have a cr10 smart and there's no information about it.
😊😅😅😅😅😅😅😊😅😅😅😅
I'm sure the z offset can be changed by less then 0.5 maybe its been updated or you missed value because mine will 0.1
Make sure you have a static IP address on the sonic pad
31:20 so uh about the scratches, you most likely didnt take off the plastic film on the screen. the actual screen on my is glass
Hoping you will respond to this...whats that black peice of paper you are using to calibrate nozzle?? Link plz?...Thanks!!
That's a calibration sheet that came with a Qidi brand printer. It's more durable than paper but is more or less the same thickness... never had an issue with regular white printer paper though... is it not working for you?
I am assuming this process will be slightly diff for an ender 5 pro. Haven't found a video for ender 5. Any suggestions?
is the sonic pad suitable for CR6-SE?
Can it increase printing speed?
Great video! Does anyone happen to know where to find the STL files for snap latch cases like the ones he uses?
The Sonic Pad does look an easy way to set up Klipper for my Ender 3 S1, much easier then trying to put together a raspberry pi, touch screen and klipper software.
It's so much easier. If you're looking for plug and play Klipper especially for a Creality machine this is it.
Thanks for the video. Can I use a normal USB to USB-C cable? I did not receive the package without a USB-c adaptor. Some persons said that you must cover the positive port of the USB cable to prevent damage to the Creality board.
I don't think you should have to cover the positive port of the USB C cable... that would seem like a very bad design. Have you tried it yet?
Excelente video! Me acabo de comprar una Sonic Pad para conectar mi Sovol04 IDEX. Es una muy buena impresora y la tengo al máximo de velocidad/calidad. Yo imprimo mucha cosa hecha con Grasshopper/Rhinoceros y estoy seguro que podré bajar los tiempos manteniendo la calidad de las impresiones.
El Marlin para mi está ultrapasado además quiero el Sonic Pad para conectar al router y poder tenerlo en una IP, esto de estar conectado vía USB/SD Card, para mi, es completamente improductivo para mi workflow.
Saludos desde Barcelona! Keep pushing!
Brilliant video. Very informative thanks for your input. Completely agree with your comments in the “Review” oart of the video
Glad you enjoyed it!
Does CR-200B show up in setup yet?
How do you tell what ended 3 s1 pro that you have?
At 10:20 you direct us to choose octoprint as the host type. Will this choice (octoprint) only work if you have an octoprint account? I do not an account, and the test button came back with an "unable to connect to host" error message. Thanks for any help you can give me!
You shouldn't need any account. I didn't have to type in any credentials associated with Octoprint. It's probably just using the same file transfer method / protocol as Octoprint so that's why you select it. If you aren't getting a connection try going into the network connections on the sonic pad, force the disconnect from your network and then try reconnecting again 30 seconds later. Sometimes it's like one of those silly "turn it off, turn it back on" type things before it works. Also, I found the connection to be more reliable after setting up the Sonic pad with a static IP using my router settings.
@@EmbraceMaking Woo-hoo! Your suggestion ("turn it off, turn it back on") did the trick! Also, getting a static IP address is definitely a good idea. It makes the process of getting a file from your slicer to your printer easier and faster! Thanks for your help.
Do these work on a machine that has had the board swapped to a BigTreeTech?
Yes there are ways to make it work. You will have to do a little more research though as it likely won't just be "plug and play" like a regular creality printer. What BTT board do you have?
@@EmbraceMaking It's a BTT SKR Mini E3 v2. Thanks for taking the time.
@@Cooker1370 This guy seemed to figure it out here: ua-cam.com/video/g0_cDuweuas/v-deo.html
hope that helps!
@@EmbraceMaking thank you!
Great and very Informative video! Thank You!!
You are welcome!
Thanks very much for this!
My pleasure!
Mine wants me to connect screen
Never seen this, what kind of message do you get specifically?
I LOVE THIS!
Thank you!
nice one thanks
You're very welcome!
I am running into so many issues right now and I just got the ender 5 s1 sonic pad bundle, I have restored to factory settings and recalibrated and Switched out the usb-c cable and it still stops mid print and keeps giving the Klippy shutdown error due to disconnect from mcu, I tried to reset my 3D printer so I can use it with out the Sonic pad and I can’t, when I flashed the firmware to use only the 3D printer and I hit the reheat the printer Reboots and loops in restarting so it won’t heat if I try to not use the sonic pad. This has been THE worst experience for me and now waiting for Creality to respond to help me resolve bc it’s a brand new purchase and it’s complete trash imo.
Did you get this resolved yet? I know you said you switched out the USB cable but I'm wondering if your USB port on your mainboard isn't making good contact. I noticed mine looks pretty loose... I haven't had any disconnects yet but I'm always keeping an eye on it especially with the printer shaking around at high speeds.
It might be better not to use WiFi and just use a direct Ethernet connection.
It would be more reliable than wireless for sure
I got one and it has never worked and Crealirty customer support sux. 4 Months of back and forth I have perched NEW CABLES AND SD CARDS AND PRINTED SEVERAL CLIPS TO HOLD ALL THE CONNECTORS TIGHT LIKE THEY TOLD ME TOO. I SENT THEM VIDEOS OF IT FAILING AND COPYS ON WERE I PERCHED IT AND THEY REFUSE TO REPLACE THEI BAD PRODUCT. IF I WERE YOU I WOULD QUIT HELPING THESE PEOPLE RIP PEOPLE OFF.
I don't know. The sonic pad has been a nightmare for me. Ive been printing for 4 years, and have never had issues, like build plate scraping, until I started using this thing. It's like it autolevels then immediately ignores the results. I have to set the z offset to a whopping 0.35 just to keep it from carving up the plate, and it still trashes most prints. Doing a factory reset and carefully going to every step, tweaking everything a perfectly as possible didn't help at all. It seems the sonic pad is really great for some printers and a nightmare for others. They clearly didn't test this on every printer they claim it supports. Be careful and do your research before buying. If I had read all of the posts about leveling issues I never would have bought this thing.
What printer are you running?
I would like to know too. I betting it is not creality.
Nope it’s Creality. Same issue on the v3 se and plenty of people are having it.