I would like a version of Orca slicer of this vid. since it seems to be the best I've used to get nice prints. I just added the Sonic Pad and it's failing prints like hotcakes.
The correct command is BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default In your video, you used BED_MESH_PROFILE_LOAD=default. I had an error using this command and removed the underscore between PROFILE and LOAD for it to work. Please update your video description to acknowledge the correction. This could cause confusion for those who are not familiar with klipper commands. Otherwise, great video and series!
Absolutely amazed, followed your video and a print that took 6hrs to complete now takes 2hrs... Cant thank u enough, Keep up the great work Ricky...its vey much appreciated.
Wished this video released so much sooner. Spent so much time researching about to properly set up some parts of the Sonic Pad. This answered all my questions :)
@@RickyImpey same! I setup the sonic pad on my new S1 Pro, and did some prints, but on standard profile, had no idea i needed to create custom slice profile! Thank you!!
Hi Ricky, just bought myself a sonic pad and your videos have been amazing and enabled me to get my CR-6 SE running like a dream. My CR-10 Smart is next for the sonic pad treatment. Just one minor thing I came across in your Slicer Setting and Profiles with Cura video, you state that to use the the bed mesh you have created, us the command BED_MESH_PROFILE_LOAD=default, however when I went into the console it was telling me that that statement was an unknown command🤔I then went to the Klipper Github and found that they list it without the underscore between the PROFILE AND LOAD COMMANDS and since then I have not had the error message😃👍Thanks once again for getting me started on my Sonic Pad journey.
I have an Ender 5 Plus. There's no profiles available or anything close. Should I just avoid this step, or blindly pick out of the 3 available? The reason I'm here going through these steps is because I'm getting layer gaps on sloped walls (prints ok vertically though), not sure if getting this right would solve my issue anyway.
Regarding the dimensions of the printbed: Officially the Ender 3 S1 Pro has 220x220x270 bed. When I use the mentioned 235x235x250 from the PDF I get errors for out of bound. When I home all axis and manually move them with the Webfrontend I get a maximum range of 230x230. For the Z-Axis I can use the full 270. So for everyone having an Ender 3 S1 Pro you can maximize your bed size to 230x230x270. But be warned: When using this you might collide with any purge-strips that might be done when using specific G-Code. I changed my purge-strip to be on X0 Y20 to X0 Y220. Then I remove that when the print starts because I don't need it anymore. No idea why Creality has these messed up dimensions in their PDF.
Good tip. I haven't had that error myself, possibly because none of my other g-code asks the printer to go to the full extremes of the bed dimensions. I will look to change it though, thanks 👍
@@RickyImpey Yeah I stumbled across it when messing with a Pause / M600 macro. I suspect that Klipper keeps a 2.5mm "security gap" on each side for preventing hitting limit switches or going off-bed when it's not fully calibrated. From my understanding Creality had the 220x220 bed size limit from the older bed types that were secured by clips. And it basically kept that throughout the other bed-types. Klipper opens up the build volume and allows a bit more space.
Hi again Ricky. It turns out my Ender 3 printer had multiple defects and Creality took it back. I just purchased an Ender 5 S1 and am setting it up using your great videos. However, being that there are quite a few differences between the Ender 3 and Ender 5 have you considered adding some updates for those of us who enjoy your guidance?
Hey man, just a heads up at the end of the vid when you say “click here to jump to the input shaping vid” you still have it labelled “coming very soon” - just letting you know so you can link that up since it’s out now! Thanks for this series, it’s so helpful!
I use Prusa's Slicer and this will give me a lot of good info. to translate into the Prusa settings, thanks! Glad you released the intermediate videos, just got my Sonic Pad set up and running a couple days ago
A lot is transferable. The most important things are to turn off any acceleration control when you do Input Shaping and Pressure Advance. You should be able to ramp up speeds to around 150mm/s once things are dialed in a little.
This video series for Creality Sonic Pad is very helpful. I am following your instructions step by step, but I am using Prusa Slicer software. Have you considered updating some of the videos to help set up for PrusaSlicer? Thanks for the work.
Can we get an explanation on pause print at height or M600 with the sonic pad? I tried adding the M600 macro and it's saying I have duplicates? The default marlin pause at height script didn't work, so I'm trying M600 now but it's all just a bit confusing.
I edit my Start G-code to preheat the extruder (prevent nozzle ozzing while calibrating) and heat the bed up to temp before running the BED_MESH_CALIBRATE then set the extruder to printer temp to print. It been working well for me.
Hi Ricky - excellent series so far. I recently got a Sonic Pad and an E3 S1 to add to my E3V2 - so far everything is coming together and your series has really helped. Couple of suggestions for future videos (if not already planned) - add proper bed tramming using the screws_tilt_adjust - just got this added to both the E3V2 with Bl touch and S1, also adding the code for a filament sensor for the E3V2. Best regards.
Loving your videos. It's finally convinced me to buy a sonic pad (it's coming tomorrow). Only thing, is there any chance of a video like this covering PrusaSlicer please 🙏
Loving the series so far been perfect for me as I have a s1 and sonic pad , this has been a huge help, hoping there is a retention guide coming soon as I think that's the last issue I have to make my prints perfect
this video is older, helped me a littlebit, so i did everythink right. now after i used the pad and all the settings from creality, my print always flys all over the bed. idk with my old cura settings, everythinkj is fine and looks great.
I haven’t seen any mention of changing the “g-code flavor” option in the Cura printer settings and noticed you didn’t cover it in your video. Does that need changed from Marlin to Klipper when updating to a Sonic Pad? BTW…Great job with your channel and content. Your channel is the first place I go when looking for any 3D printing answers! Thanks for all you do!
Rick I am struggling with the print head stopping in place at the last X-Y-Z and the nozzle hardens on the spot. This was after using the ending g code crom creality. I do not understand g code enough yet to add a move to x5 Y 10 z up a bit. Any suggestions for materials to read or watch? I did try using the new print start machine settings and the old print end but it gave an error I have seen a few time about unable to resolve go blah blah TIA man You have been awesome as a teacher
the End-Gcode was trash. I just grabbed the code from my old s1 profile added 10 to the x and y just so it wouldn't crash. What was happening was the print would finish but the nozzle would stop and the heat wound stay on and the printer was non responsive unless I force quit and rebooted.
I moved my start/stop GCodes to Klipper macros. So now I only have 1 command for start, and 1 command for stop. It make managing more portable, since I can slice once, and print on many printers
Thanks a Lot for this Perfect Tutorial-Video! With your Settings for Cura my Ender3 Neo with Bimetal Heatbreak and Dual Z-Axis Upgrade works on the Sonic Pad Perfect!!!!! I have Made all of your Tipps and Tricks from your Sonic Pad Series and it work flawlessly Many Thanks for your work Please Please give is mir of this Content Greatings from Austria Peter
Hi Ricky and thanks for you videos and tutorials. I'm trying with real pain to properly tune Sonic Pad with my Ender3 S1 Pro, but I'm getting only pain ;) I made all the calibrations suggested in the manual and in your videos, but I think that the profiles created by Creality are really bad performing. The main issue which I'm not stilla able to solve is warping: I get warping at every print I try and, if I switch back to the "base" S1Pro printer profiles, using the same temperatures (60/200), the print is perfect.
Hello Ricky your videos are a great help and I want to thank you for posting them. Do you like a challenge lol I cant seem to find an answer to my question ANYWHARE so far, I have 7 printers and a sonic pad and have had no problem setting up on the printers i want to use it on thanks to you, however I have one I just cant find the Propper Kippler config files to flash with its a Geeetech A30T Is this something you can help with or advise me on. blessings and have a great day. Allen
Thanks for the video series, Ricky. Question - Does the creality Sonic Pad respod to flow rate adjustments set in Cura? After calibrating my extruder, I had printed some flow calibation cubes and found that 91% flow rate in cura would produce dimensionally correct cubes on my Ender 3v2 Neo. Well, I just got a Sonic pad, confirmed my e-steps, and when I print the same cura sliced cube with 91% flow rate, I see the Sonic pad shows 100% flow rate and the cube prints over size. When I adjust the Sonic Pad's flow rate to 91%, my print comes out dimensionally correct. This appears the flow rate adjustments in Cura are not effecting my Sonic Pad prints. Do you know how these interact with respect to flow rate adjustments? What is your recommended process for this where my PLA needs a 91% flow rate? Set in Cura? Set in the Sonic pad?
I'm not being allowed to import the profiles for some reason, creality slicer just keeps coming up with failed to import on every profile. Does anyone know how to get round this please?
Hi again Ricky! Sorry to be a nag but have you gotten any solution to the issue of not being able to import print profile from my original creality printer to the one I created from your video. I get a message saying it is "not compatible with the machine type" If anyone else reads this and has a solution please comment. Thanks for listening.
I did want to point out a typo. The command to load the Bed Mesh is : BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD="default" When I had what was in the video I got an error that the command was not recognized.
I am new to 3d print and Sonic pad .I have a cr 10 smart pro what setup should I use in cura so I can enjoy the Sonicpad .Thanks for the help in advance
Maybe a stupid question. I have configured the Sonic Pad as a new printer. Is the idea that I now print to the new configured Sonic Pad printer? The Moonraker only connects to the old printer and the profiles are only available on the new printer. Thanks for your help, the content is outstanding.
Why do we make a custom printer in Cura instead of using Cura's profile for the printer if we're just adding the same values? Is it just to change the G-Code?
It's to do with the way profiles are managed within the file system of Cura. Each profile is based off of another one. For instance, all Creality profiles are based off of a profile called 'Creality base' and they share many values. Creating a new profile frees you from all of the settings that are set many layers down that conflict with the settings a Klipper machine can use.
@@RickyImpey that's so great thanks. Makes a lot of sense. I've been having problems as I have the 3 Max Neo and can't find specific settings for that. Creality told me the stock S3 v1 would work as long as I change the bed size, but I seem to keep running into issues where some gcode is throwing the print head to the far back of the bed after the two starting lines of extraction and it failing. Driving me crazy. Also annoying is that Creality Print now has profiles for some printers with Sonic Pad but not all of them. Is it true the Ender 3 v1 machine and extruder settings/g code should be the same for the Ender 3 Max Neo or do I need to keep googling? Thanks again for explaining the need for setting a custom printer.
@@davetriesthis When you say that it's 'failing', are you getting an error? If so, what does it say? I would have advised you to start with and Ender 3v2 + BLtouch machine as a starting point as long as there is an option for your control board/chip combination. The original Ender 3 v1 didn't have a BL Touch. From there you would need to edit your config file in a few areas. The 'position_max' figures in all of the 3 stepper sections need editing to match your bed size and z height. In the 'safe_z_home' section the 'home_xy_position' figures need changing to half of your x and y dimensions and in the 'bl_touch' section, you may need to edit the x and y offsets if your bed probe is in a different position to the E3v2. Sorry, I don't have the Neo or Neo Max to be able to tell you what these figures should be. This should get you started but see where you get to.
@@RickyImpey Hey thanks for taking the time to write back with such a detailed reply. As a creator myself, I know how valuable time is so I really appreciate it. The Ender 3 Max Neo came to me from Creality for a feature article I'm doing, so the machine is here and the first two units they sent me had horrible issues. First one the bed itself (not the glass plate, the metal bed) had a hump in it, so it was impossible to level. Im on my third unit now, and the Sonic Pad I'm using for another article, so just started with trying to get that Ender working. By failing, I mean that what had happened was that it would draw the first two lines on the edge as per the new g-code and then it looked like it was trying to "home" the x axis too far behind where the plate ended. So it would draw two lines, move to center of the board, and then move the bed so far forward that the head was off the board. Both of these happened on prints that pushed the model to the edge of at least one axis. So it looks to me like the safe areas are wrong, even though I have the bed size in. I'll try to do more digging into the safe positions on reddit. Right now I'm printing a piece that I ran through Creality Print using the. Ender 3 S1 Fast profile just to see if it works, and it's printing, and printing hella fast, but I'm not home with my slicer but I think the model was centered in the slicer but it's printing toward the front of the bed. In any case, the safe x and y was the info I was looking for and now I'll dig into reddit for more support. Also, if you hadn't done the videos on getting the Sonic Pad working, I'd never have figured it out by their instructions alone. Thanks for that!
Hi Ricky, amazing series and really looking forward to get at the bottom of setting properly my Ender 5-Plus. Regarding the profile to import where can I find the one for my printer model? Many thanks
Great videos, learning a lot. I have an Ender 3 V2 that I upgraded the extruder to a Slice Direct Drive before purchasing the SonicPad. Should I configure it as a new printer using the Ender 3 V2 parameters or another model - or some particular configuration - due to the direct drive?
Excellent guids! I have one question tho, I have a CR-6 SE and im not sure if I got this right. Should I keep the standard start and end code but remove the G29 and N420 code and replace it with BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD="default"? Or should I leave start and end code as it is? Should I then import the ender profiles for the settings or should I keep the CR-6 profiles? Thank you for your guids. Have a nice day.
Hi, personally I would use the Ender 3v2 profiles, copy in your machine settings and previous start and end gcode that you are happy with in your CR-6 SE Cura profile and replace any G29 or M420 lines with the 'BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD="default".
Hi Ricky I’ve followed all your set up videos and they have been fantastic but once I set up this printer I’m getting an out of range fault when the bed mesh has finished don’t suppose you have a fix for this?
I have the sonic pad with the ender 3 s1 pro. I have had issues printing a benchy at default sonic pad normal slicer settings and the hull of the benchy looks like its not getting cooled enough. Did anyone have this issue?
Thanks for your excellent videos, they're so very helpful and imformative!!! In regards ot the bed meshing...I have an Ender 5 S1 and have been following your tutorials to set it up. I can verify that the Sonc Pad must indeed auto-insert its own bed meshing command, as I only have the G29 command in there in the Cura profile, and since using the Sonic Pad, it performs a bed mesh prior to each print that is performed differently (one probe touch as opposed to the 2 probe touchers pre Sonic Pad), and faster than it was being done pre Sonic Pad with the G29 code.
Ricky you advise to put bed_mesh_calibrate in the slicer settings. I've did this but after every start of a print in the web ui I'll see this message so is my bed mesh used? because the printer is not restarted 16:31:57 // Bed Mesh state has been saved to profile [default] // for the current session. The SAVE_CONFIG command will // update the printer config file and restart the printer.
It's pretty much literally only speeds. The 'Fast' profiles turn everything up to the max for if you just want a quick and dirty print. The 'Normal' profiles are much more usable without lots of fine tuning and are still fast compared to most Marlin machines.
Hi Ricky - v. glad you're out there providing all the excellent info you do. However, I have a question. Re: the Gantry Height setting - for the Ender-3 S1 Pro, this seems to be set at 25mm, as reflected in the published Cura pdf. Am I misunderstanding what Gantry Height means, or is this just a typo for 250mm? I notice that, e.g. for the Ender3-V2, the Cura pdf specifies 255mm for Gantry Height, which is 20mm more than the specified Z (Height) setting, rather than 225mm LESS, as is the case for my Ender-3 S1 Pro? Hope you can help - would hate to fall at one of the first hurdles. P.S. I did hover over the entry in Cura to get the setting's explanation, but still didn't get a good sense of what Gantry Height actually meant.
I LOVE this series!! Thank you releasing it..... I did everything according to the video but I noticed 2 strange issues on my end. 1: My printer is running the bed level mesh before every print (ender 3 s1 pro) 2: My slicer times are way off from the file times? Any advice? it was the other way around before I used the correct start code, the cura time exceeded the file time by 50% Any advice would be great and thank you again, I almost ditched my sonic pad before I found your series
Thanks for this series on the sonic pad. I can't help but wonder should g-code flavor be changed to RepRap in Machinesettings>Printer; is there a reason you leave it on marlin?
I have used your Information since I started with the s1 pro, but with this I followed your directions to a tee and double checked all settings and the printed are absolutely horrible! But if I switch back to my regular s1 profile and printed off sonic pad the prints are great? Any idea why?
where can I find the PDF for the start and end GCODE?? I've searched all over creality to find it with no luck.. I can only seem to find the user manual pdf..
Can you do an updated version with orca slicer in mind what settings if u use klipper or marlin generic options or pick the printer if it's available and change a few things... The cura was great now time for an orca version
Hi Ricky, I'm new to 3D printing and have an Ender 3 V3 SE along with a Sonic Pad and an Ender 3 S1 Pro. I managed to setup the S1 to the Sonic Pad and configured with Cura which works great. The problem I have is that I cannot find a profile for Cura to use on the Sonic Pad for my Ender 3 V3 SE. I have looked all over but have not found anything. Could you post or let me know how I would go about creating a profile to use with the custom printer created in Cura? Thanks
Hello again well I found out the answer to my question creality tec support and Shenzhen got back to me today and told me that they have hopes on adding that printer among a few others in the future. After all most all of the common market place printers and the sonic pad as well are all made by Shenzhen technologies guessing the delay and design have to do with the multi color extrusion. I see in the future a sonic pad S2 ? lol. Any how thank you just the same and blessings your way. Allen
Before I switched to this profile I had amazing prints. But the new profiles for Petg are struggling on the s1 pro. It all starts from the initial layer. I'm probably going to slow down the initial layer and see if that helps. Once 1st layers are complete and the printer goes into hyper drive it's lights out.
The fast profile speeds are pretty much a 'maximum possible' option. Try just slowing down the print and infill speeds to around 100/110mm/s until you get the quality you want and then turn it up from there to see what your machine can handle. I have done exactly this with PETG with great results.
I modded my v2 to direct drive and klipper... at the moment I'm using orca slicer...Any tip to update the "default" v2 slicer profile to a better one? since the default is for marlin and the speeds are the base one.. anything from the manual I can take to the slicer to get the most out of modded v2 w/klipper and orca slicer?
I wouldn't use the S1 or S1 Pro profiles, they both have direct drive extruders. You would be better off with a standard Ender 3 profile as a starting point.
Ever noticed that the rows of the bed mesh in the print.cfg file have a different order than shown on the sonic pad? The top row on the sonic pad is the bottom row in print.cfg, 2nd from top is 2nd from bottom etc
I have an Ender 3 max neo. I don't quite understand why I am creating a new profile, if I'm just copying all the same info into it? Will we be changing it in the future?
i try with or without BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD="default". I definitely need to write this code to cura start gcode area to make it work. Like you said, we need to write it. Otherwise it doesn't work.
I followed the beginning Gcode as specified. The printer laid down the first line then the second and then scraped across the plate to the center. Looking at the differences in the Code on the manual and the existing code there was not a Z axis up command. The other issue was every time it did a calibration to start the print the z setting was too high. I had to remove it and just manually level it and it worked great.
I'm not sure which machine you have but I've just checked all three of the Creality supplied start g-codes and they all set the z height to 0.3mm at the lowest. I'm not entirely sure what you mean by the 'manual' and 'existing' code. I'm happy to help more if you need and what to clarify these for me.
@@RickyImpey Ricky after reading your reply I tried it again. This time I typed in the G-Code rather than cut and paste. and it worked fine. Not sure if somehow after slicing it there were issues or something with the sonic pad. I also reset the sonic pad yesterday. Who knows.
I had the exact same problem on my S1 Plus. First print started 5 mm above the bed. After following the video and double checking the start g-code, it heated to 215C, did a recal of the position, then dropped the temperature to 195C ( witch I did not specify anywhere), and the nozzle took a deep dive into the bed. To make maters worse it has a habit of not lifting the printhead above already printed parts, but just crunching through layers when moving across the printbed. I have no idea how to fix it. CURA is one big mess compared to Prusa slicer. Currently the S1 plus has been sitting idle on my desk for two weeks laughing at me when I enter the room, and I give it The Eye from time to time. I pray somebody will make a profile for Prusa slicer, otherwise I'm f.....d. I could swear it does not use the mesh settings when printing.
Hey Ricky! Thank you SO much again for everything! I have a question for you, there must be an issue in my end G code. I use the exact profile and end G Code as you except i followed your steps for adapting it to my printer sorta (I have an ender 3 V1 NEO) I just got the ender 3 NEO SE direct drive by creality. its not very well know. well Ive gone through all the steps and i just came back and i did the profiles to see if i can have a better bases to fine tune off of (I definitely do with these profiles, again thank you) Everything has been awesome the bed mesh at the beginning of printing is life changing lol. At the end of my prints thought I for some reason get this code. I think that the ending G code must just be wrong somehow for my specific printer (V1 NEO) but I am not sure, that is why I am here asking. If anyone else sees this that also had this code thrown could you please help me. THANK YOU so much in advance!! :) Code in reference -> !! Move out of range: 0.000 230.000 33.750 [3111.225]
Ender 3 S1 Pro + Sonic Pad calibrated (by using all of you videos). Creality Profile loade in UltiMaker Cura. All my print results with 'normal' or 'fast' profiles are very bad!!! Need some help :(
Hi Ricky... Very good series you have here. Your command BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default in your video is correct, not the one you have altered it to in the comments. Its causing a bit of confusion on the sonic pad Facebook group. Its in the official klipper documentation as without ""
hello. I usually use a prusa slicer and just got a sinic pad. among the attached files that it brings only profiles for cure. Is there any way to use them in prusa slicer? thank you
Is there a possibility to create Start G Code (M420 S1 Z10) for Klipper in Cura / Sonic Pad? The question is actually about the command (Z10). Thanks in advance.
Hi .. I know im super late to the party but i followed this guide for my S1 Pro and its working great , Now im trying to add a cr-10 v1... i cant for the life of me find any slicer setups for this .. does anyone know where i can look ? or any help is greatly appreciated .. And epic guides Ricky
I tried importing the cura profiles for my sonic pad and it said it couldn't import because the quality is not compatible. How do I work around this issue?
I'm getting the same error code, I did create a new profile for my printer. I tried to edit the Quality name in the file but still got the same error only with the new quality name. Also, tried shortening the path to the file. I have an Ender S1 plus so the S1 pro should be the correct profiles. Any thoughts? maybe uninstall and start from scratch?
I've followed the videos and imported Creality's profile and now a print that would take 7h with my previous profile now takes 3h but one issue appeared, the nozzle is scraping the infill pretty hard when traveling above it on the same layer (infill freshly printed and Z didn't move). I've rolled back the changes I made regarding e-steps and pressure advance and the issue prersists. I'm really not understanding how this can be due to higher printing speed, when I use my old profile the scraping almost disappears. Does anybody have any idea of what could be causing this? I've cleaned, re-leveled the bed and re-adjusted Z offset
Hi Rick! Sorry to bother you again but I'm having an issue. I created another machine profile like you showed in the video and all was well. However when I tried to import profiles that are in Creality Ender 3 S1 plus to my Creality Ender 3 S1 plus SP profile it will not import saying profile not compatible with machine type. Any suggestions you have would be great. Thanks again.
OK I got it to work. So, despite my best efforts it will not work in the creality slicer version of cura. You need the ultimaker version. From there if you follow the steps in the video it works. I managed to create a g-code that works too.
Start code: ; Ender 3 S1 Plus Start G-code G90 G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G28 ;Home all axes BED_MESH_CALIBRATE G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 End code: M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan G91 ;Relative positioning G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more G90 ;Absolute positioning G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z Machine Settings: x(width) 300.0 y(depth) 300.0 z(height) 300.0 x min -26 y min -32 x max 32 y max 34 gantry height 25 After you load the profiles, remember to hit show custom on the print settings drop down menu or the imported profile will not show.
Thank you for your excellent videos. Unfortunately, when I try to import the profiles as per your instructions, it always fails with the error pop-up: "Failed to import profile from C:/Users/wb9sy/OneDrive/Desktop/Ender-3 V2 Profiles/Cura-Ender3V2-normal-PLA.curaprofile: Unable to add the profile." This happens regardless of where I put the profile folder - the error message still appears but with the folder where the files are located. Meanwhile, my Ender-3 V2 Neo is turning filament into junk...
The latest version of Creality Print includes presets for their printers *with the Sonic Pad* as well as without. Selecting that brings up all the needed options already set. Makes a terrific difference! Thank you for detailing the rest of the optimization to get the best results which I am enjoying now!
Hi, great videos, maybe I missed some previous one - can`t find that Enable Firmware Retraction. You must probably have installed Klipper plugin into Cura. Maybe it helps someone.
I followed this guide to add my S1 Pro. I thought importing the s1 pro klipper profile configs would set everything up for me and be ready for printing.. It shamefully took me a couple of days and failed/odd prints to realise it isn't so. CHECK THE RETRACTION DISTANCE!!!! Only reason I looked is because my dry filament was popping when printing lol It sets it to 6.5mm when choosing this printer. The klipper profile does NOT change it. This brings me to my question. If the printer has a profile in Cura, why don't we pick that instead of the custom one? Surely that would have more correct settings for the printer. And then importing the klipper profile for that printer would change what needs changing? I'm wondering what other settings arn't correct now
I'll answer my own question after trying. If you add your printer as the official S1 Pro printer, then importing the klipper profile will fail. Guess that's why the sonic pad readme tells you to add a custom printer. Can retraction settings not be configured via profiles? Or is this just something overlooked by creality? Things like this is why I fricking hate 3d printing sometimes
Your series has been very helpful. With this video, I must be missing something because I cannot find any sonicpad profile parameters for CR10S Pro V2. In the documents they provide, it seems they are only focused on Enders.
After watching through the video several times, I decided to try something hopefully simpler. I went to the machine settings for my CR10S Pro V2, it had been printing to the SonicPad with adjusted profiles as per your videos, In the start g code, I pasted BED_MESH_CALIBRATE and deleted the G29 and M420 codes. It seems that's where you end up anyway. Now to test it. Scary.
Add me to the list of folks who would like a PrusaSlicer version of this video :)
Me too
Same here
Same here. thanks!
Same here!
Me too please!
I would like a version of Orca slicer of this vid. since it seems to be the best I've used to get nice prints. I just added the Sonic Pad and it's failing prints like hotcakes.
The correct command is BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default
In your video, you used BED_MESH_PROFILE_LOAD=default. I had an error using this command and removed the underscore between PROFILE and LOAD for it to work.
Please update your video description to acknowledge the correction. This could cause confusion for those who are not familiar with klipper commands. Otherwise, great video and series!
i just bumped to this problem and started looking klipper manual. maybe i get better results now :)
yup. printing pretty good now. nice introduction to 3d printing world :P wasted hours hunting this issue.
I was curious how BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default differed in behavior from BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
This series has been the most helpful of all the videos I have found, thank you so much and I can't wait for the next set.
Absolutely amazed, followed your video and a print that took 6hrs to complete now takes 2hrs... Cant thank u enough, Keep up the great work Ricky...its vey much appreciated.
Wished this video released so much sooner. Spent so much time researching about to properly set up some parts of the Sonic Pad. This answered all my questions :)
Sorry, glad the information is out there now though.
@@RickyImpey same! I setup the sonic pad on my new S1 Pro, and did some prints, but on standard profile, had no idea i needed to create custom slice profile! Thank you!!
Thanks Ricky this video has been really helpful, I mainly use prusa slicer, but with this video I can now take a look at cura 😊
Hi Ricky, just bought myself a sonic pad and your videos have been amazing and enabled me to get my CR-6 SE running like a dream. My CR-10 Smart is next for the sonic pad treatment. Just one minor thing I came across in your Slicer Setting and Profiles with Cura video, you state that to use the the bed mesh you have created, us the command BED_MESH_PROFILE_LOAD=default, however when I went into the console it was telling me that that statement was an unknown command🤔I then went to the Klipper Github and found that they list it without the underscore between the PROFILE AND LOAD COMMANDS and since then I have not had the error message😃👍Thanks once again for getting me started on my Sonic Pad journey.
Hi! mind sharing a CR-6se profile? ☺
@@laurens_db im looking for 1 too lol
I have an Ender 5 Plus. There's no profiles available or anything close. Should I just avoid this step, or blindly pick out of the 3 available?
The reason I'm here going through these steps is because I'm getting layer gaps on sloped walls (prints ok vertically though), not sure if getting this right would solve my issue anyway.
Regarding the dimensions of the printbed:
Officially the Ender 3 S1 Pro has 220x220x270 bed.
When I use the mentioned 235x235x250 from the PDF I get errors for out of bound.
When I home all axis and manually move them with the Webfrontend I get a maximum range of 230x230.
For the Z-Axis I can use the full 270.
So for everyone having an Ender 3 S1 Pro you can maximize your bed size to 230x230x270.
But be warned: When using this you might collide with any purge-strips that might be done when using specific G-Code. I changed my purge-strip to be on X0 Y20 to X0 Y220.
Then I remove that when the print starts because I don't need it anymore.
No idea why Creality has these messed up dimensions in their PDF.
Good tip. I haven't had that error myself, possibly because none of my other g-code asks the printer to go to the full extremes of the bed dimensions. I will look to change it though, thanks 👍
@@RickyImpey Yeah I stumbled across it when messing with a Pause / M600 macro. I suspect that Klipper keeps a 2.5mm "security gap" on each side for preventing hitting limit switches or going off-bed when it's not fully calibrated.
From my understanding Creality had the 220x220 bed size limit from the older bed types that were secured by clips. And it basically kept that throughout the other bed-types.
Klipper opens up the build volume and allows a bit more space.
Hi again Ricky. It turns out my Ender 3 printer had multiple defects and Creality took it back. I just purchased an Ender 5 S1 and am setting it up using your great videos. However, being that there are quite a few differences between the Ender 3 and Ender 5 have you considered adding some updates for those of us who enjoy your guidance?
Well paced, easy to follow.....sincere thanks!
Hey man, just a heads up at the end of the vid when you say “click here to jump to the input shaping vid” you still have it labelled “coming very soon” - just letting you know so you can link that up since it’s out now!
Thanks for this series, it’s so helpful!
I use Prusa's Slicer and this will give me a lot of good info. to translate into the Prusa settings, thanks! Glad you released the intermediate videos, just got my Sonic Pad set up and running a couple days ago
Can you use the sonic pad over your network with prusa slicer?
A lot is transferable. The most important things are to turn off any acceleration control when you do Input Shaping and Pressure Advance. You should be able to ramp up speeds to around 150mm/s once things are dialed in a little.
@@RickyImpey nice, ty!
@@ArtisanDepot Yes, with the web interface up I can upload the gcode file from Prusa slicer to the printer. Works great 👍
This video series for Creality Sonic Pad is very helpful. I am following your instructions step by step, but I am using Prusa Slicer software. Have you considered updating some of the videos to help set up for PrusaSlicer?
Thanks for the work.
Can we get an explanation on pause print at height or M600 with the sonic pad? I tried adding the M600 macro and it's saying I have duplicates? The default marlin pause at height script didn't work, so I'm trying M600 now but it's all just a bit confusing.
I edit my Start G-code to preheat the extruder (prevent nozzle ozzing while calibrating) and heat the bed up to temp before running the BED_MESH_CALIBRATE then set the extruder to printer temp to print. It been working well for me.
Fanks Man. you're a legend. your guide is perfect (although i did have to slow it down to 50% :)
I am using the default printer setup in Cura 5.4.0 for my Ender 3 S1 Proand it prents so much better than the mannually added printer.
Hi Ricky - excellent series so far. I recently got a Sonic Pad and an E3 S1 to add to my E3V2 - so far everything is coming together and your series has really helped.
Couple of suggestions for future videos (if not already planned) - add proper bed tramming using the screws_tilt_adjust - just got this added to both the E3V2 with Bl touch and S1, also adding the code for a filament sensor for the E3V2. Best regards.
Loving your videos. It's finally convinced me to buy a sonic pad (it's coming tomorrow). Only thing, is there any chance of a video like this covering PrusaSlicer please 🙏
I will look into Prusa setup an possibly add a video to the series👍
Loving the series so far been perfect for me as I have a s1 and sonic pad , this has been a huge help, hoping there is a retention guide coming soon as I think that's the last issue I have to make my prints perfect
this video is older, helped me a littlebit, so i did everythink right.
now after i used the pad and all the settings from creality, my print always flys all over the bed. idk with my old cura settings, everythinkj is fine and looks great.
I haven’t seen any mention of changing the “g-code flavor” option in the Cura printer settings and noticed you didn’t cover it in your video. Does that need changed from Marlin to Klipper when updating to a Sonic Pad?
BTW…Great job with your channel and content. Your channel is the first place I go when looking for any 3D printing answers! Thanks for all you do!
As far as i'm aware, Cura doesn't have a 'klipper' gcode flavor. I leave mine on 'Marlin'.
Thank you. Really helpful and easy to follow. Subscribed! Looking forward to more.
Rick I am struggling with the print head stopping in place at the last X-Y-Z and the nozzle hardens on the spot. This was after using the ending g code crom creality. I do not understand g code enough yet to add a move to x5 Y 10 z up a bit. Any suggestions for materials to read or watch? I did try using the new print start machine settings and the old print end but it gave an error I have seen a few time about unable to resolve go blah blah TIA man You have been awesome as a teacher
the End-Gcode was trash. I just grabbed the code from my old s1 profile added 10 to the x and y just so it wouldn't crash. What was happening was the print would finish but the nozzle would stop and the heat wound stay on and the printer was non responsive unless I force quit and rebooted.
I moved my start/stop GCodes to Klipper macros. So now I only have 1 command for start, and 1 command for stop. It make managing more portable, since I can slice once, and print on many printers
Thanks a Lot for this Perfect Tutorial-Video!
With your Settings for Cura my Ender3 Neo with Bimetal Heatbreak and Dual Z-Axis Upgrade works on the Sonic Pad Perfect!!!!!
I have Made all of your Tipps and Tricks from your Sonic Pad Series and it work flawlessly
Many Thanks for your work
Please Please give is mir of this Content
Greatings from Austria
Peter
Hi Ricky and thanks for you videos and tutorials. I'm trying with real pain to properly tune Sonic Pad with my Ender3 S1 Pro, but I'm getting only pain ;)
I made all the calibrations suggested in the manual and in your videos, but I think that the profiles created by Creality are really bad performing.
The main issue which I'm not stilla able to solve is warping: I get warping at every print I try and, if I switch back to the "base" S1Pro printer profiles, using the same temperatures (60/200), the print is perfect.
Hello Ricky your videos are a great help and I want to thank you for posting them. Do you like a challenge lol I cant seem to find an answer to my question ANYWHARE so far, I have 7 printers and a sonic pad and have had no problem setting up on the printers i want to use it on thanks to you, however I have one I just cant find the Propper Kippler config files to flash with its a Geeetech A30T Is this something you can help with or advise me on. blessings and have a great day. Allen
Thanks for the video series, Ricky. Question - Does the creality Sonic Pad respod to flow rate adjustments set in Cura? After calibrating my extruder, I had printed some flow calibation cubes and found that 91% flow rate in cura would produce dimensionally correct cubes on my Ender 3v2 Neo. Well, I just got a Sonic pad, confirmed my e-steps, and when I print the same cura sliced cube with 91% flow rate, I see the Sonic pad shows 100% flow rate and the cube prints over size. When I adjust the Sonic Pad's flow rate to 91%, my print comes out dimensionally correct. This appears the flow rate adjustments in Cura are not effecting my Sonic Pad prints. Do you know how these interact with respect to flow rate adjustments? What is your recommended process for this where my PLA needs a 91% flow rate? Set in Cura? Set in the Sonic pad?
I'm not being allowed to import the profiles for some reason, creality slicer just keeps coming up with failed to import on every profile. Does anyone know how to get round this please?
Hi again Ricky! Sorry to be a nag but have you gotten any solution to the issue of not being able to import print profile from my original creality printer to the one I created from your video. I get a message saying it is "not compatible with the machine type" If anyone else reads this and has a solution please comment. Thanks for listening.
I did want to point out a typo. The command to load the Bed Mesh is : BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD="default"
When I had what was in the video I got an error that the command was not recognized.
Whoops! Thanks Bill, I'll put a note in the description admitting to my error🙂
@@RickyImpey Actually it isn't.
Congratulations for your videos, do you have profiles to use in Prusa?
Not just yet but I plan to put something together.
Excellent video very clear and I really appreciate it.
You're very welcome!
I am new to 3d print and Sonic pad .I have a cr 10 smart pro what setup should I use in cura so I can enjoy the Sonicpad .Thanks for the help in advance
Maybe a stupid question. I have configured the Sonic Pad as a new printer. Is the idea that I now print to the new configured Sonic Pad printer? The Moonraker only connects to the old printer and the profiles are only available on the new printer. Thanks for your help, the content is outstanding.
Why do we make a custom printer in Cura instead of using Cura's profile for the printer if we're just adding the same values? Is it just to change the G-Code?
It's to do with the way profiles are managed within the file system of Cura. Each profile is based off of another one. For instance, all Creality profiles are based off of a profile called 'Creality base' and they share many values. Creating a new profile frees you from all of the settings that are set many layers down that conflict with the settings a Klipper machine can use.
@@RickyImpey that's so great thanks. Makes a lot of sense. I've been having problems as I have the 3 Max Neo and can't find specific settings for that. Creality told me the stock S3 v1 would work as long as I change the bed size, but I seem to keep running into issues where some gcode is throwing the print head to the far back of the bed after the two starting lines of extraction and it failing. Driving me crazy.
Also annoying is that Creality Print now has profiles for some printers with Sonic Pad but not all of them.
Is it true the Ender 3 v1 machine and extruder settings/g code should be the same for the Ender 3 Max Neo or do I need to keep googling?
Thanks again for explaining the need for setting a custom printer.
@@davetriesthis When you say that it's 'failing', are you getting an error? If so, what does it say? I would have advised you to start with and Ender 3v2 + BLtouch machine as a starting point as long as there is an option for your control board/chip combination. The original Ender 3 v1 didn't have a BL Touch. From there you would need to edit your config file in a few areas. The 'position_max' figures in all of the 3 stepper sections need editing to match your bed size and z height. In the 'safe_z_home' section the 'home_xy_position' figures need changing to half of your x and y dimensions and in the 'bl_touch' section, you may need to edit the x and y offsets if your bed probe is in a different position to the E3v2. Sorry, I don't have the Neo or Neo Max to be able to tell you what these figures should be. This should get you started but see where you get to.
@@RickyImpey Hey thanks for taking the time to write back with such a detailed reply. As a creator myself, I know how valuable time is so I really appreciate it.
The Ender 3 Max Neo came to me from Creality for a feature article I'm doing, so the machine is here and the first two units they sent me had horrible issues. First one the bed itself (not the glass plate, the metal bed) had a hump in it, so it was impossible to level. Im on my third unit now, and the Sonic Pad I'm using for another article, so just started with trying to get that Ender working.
By failing, I mean that what had happened was that it would draw the first two lines on the edge as per the new g-code and then it looked like it was trying to "home" the x axis too far behind where the plate ended. So it would draw two lines, move to center of the board, and then move the bed so far forward that the head was off the board.
Both of these happened on prints that pushed the model to the edge of at least one axis. So it looks to me like the safe areas are wrong, even though I have the bed size in. I'll try to do more digging into the safe positions on reddit.
Right now I'm printing a piece that I ran through Creality Print using the. Ender 3 S1 Fast profile just to see if it works, and it's printing, and printing hella fast, but I'm not home with my slicer but I think the model was centered in the slicer but it's printing toward the front of the bed.
In any case, the safe x and y was the info I was looking for and now I'll dig into reddit for more support.
Also, if you hadn't done the videos on getting the Sonic Pad working, I'd never have figured it out by their instructions alone. Thanks for that!
Hi, thanks for helping me get this far! I have a question, what profile would I use if I’m using a cr10s pro v2?
Hi Ricky, amazing series and really looking forward to get at the bottom of setting properly my Ender 5-Plus. Regarding the profile to import where can I find the one for my printer model? Many thanks
Great videos, learning a lot. I have an Ender 3 V2 that I upgraded the extruder to a Slice Direct Drive before purchasing the SonicPad. Should I configure it as a new printer using the Ender 3 V2 parameters or another model - or some particular configuration - due to the direct drive?
Excellent guids! I have one question tho, I have a CR-6 SE and im not sure if I got this right. Should I keep the standard start and end code but remove the G29 and N420 code and replace it with BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD="default"? Or should I leave start and end code as it is? Should I then import the ender profiles for the settings or should I keep the CR-6 profiles? Thank you for your guids. Have a nice day.
Hi, personally I would use the Ender 3v2 profiles, copy in your machine settings and previous start and end gcode that you are happy with in your CR-6 SE Cura profile and replace any G29 or M420 lines with the 'BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD="default".
Mine say's this. No clue how to fix it: bed_mesh: Unknown profile [Default]
Hi Ricky I’ve followed all your set up videos and they have been fantastic but once I set up this printer I’m getting an out of range fault when the bed mesh has finished don’t suppose you have a fix for this?
I have the sonic pad with the ender 3 s1 pro. I have had issues printing a benchy at default sonic pad normal slicer settings and the hull of the benchy looks like its not getting cooled enough. Did anyone have this issue?
I’m getting bad print on my printers I tune everything adjusted my wheels and I still getting bad one what do I do
Thanks for your excellent videos, they're so very helpful and imformative!!! In regards ot the bed meshing...I have an Ender 5 S1 and have been following your tutorials to set it up. I can verify that the Sonc Pad must indeed auto-insert its own bed meshing command, as I only have the G29 command in there in the Cura profile, and since using the Sonic Pad, it performs a bed mesh prior to each print that is performed differently (one probe touch as opposed to the 2 probe touchers pre Sonic Pad), and faster than it was being done pre Sonic Pad with the G29 code.
Sorry for the question. I have a ender 5 s1 I really can't find a start end end Gcode for cura with sonic pad. can you help me?
Ricky you advise to put bed_mesh_calibrate in the slicer settings. I've did this but after every start of a print in the web ui I'll see this message so is my bed mesh used? because the printer is not restarted
16:31:57
// Bed Mesh state has been saved to profile [default]
// for the current session. The SAVE_CONFIG command will
// update the printer config file and restart the printer.
Yes, the new mesh will be used if it takes a mesh at the beginning of a print
Do you know what is the difference between the normal vs fast profiles for the V2? Your videos are very helpful!
It's pretty much literally only speeds. The 'Fast' profiles turn everything up to the max for if you just want a quick and dirty print. The 'Normal' profiles are much more usable without lots of fine tuning and are still fast compared to most Marlin machines.
Hi Ricky - v. glad you're out there providing all the excellent info you do. However, I have a question. Re: the Gantry Height setting - for the Ender-3 S1 Pro, this seems to be set at 25mm, as reflected in the published Cura pdf. Am I misunderstanding what Gantry Height means, or is this just a typo for 250mm? I notice that, e.g. for the Ender3-V2, the Cura pdf specifies 255mm for Gantry Height, which is 20mm more than the specified Z (Height) setting, rather than 225mm LESS, as is the case for my Ender-3 S1 Pro? Hope you can help - would hate to fall at one of the first hurdles. P.S. I did hover over the entry in Cura to get the setting's explanation, but still didn't get a good sense of what Gantry Height actually meant.
I LOVE this series!! Thank you releasing it..... I did everything according to the video but I noticed 2 strange issues on my end. 1: My printer is running the bed level mesh before every print (ender 3 s1 pro) 2: My slicer times are way off from the file times? Any advice? it was the other way around before I used the correct start code, the cura time exceeded the file time by 50%
Any advice would be great and thank you again, I almost ditched my sonic pad before I found your series
Thanks for this series on the sonic pad. I can't help but wonder should g-code flavor be changed to RepRap in Machinesettings>Printer; is there a reason you leave it on marlin?
Hello. Would these profiles work on prusa slicer? Thanks
I have used your Information since I started with the s1 pro, but with this I followed your directions to a tee and double checked all settings and the printed are absolutely horrible! But if I switch back to my regular s1 profile and printed off sonic pad the prints are great? Any idea why?
where can I find the PDF for the start and end GCODE?? I've searched all over creality to find it with no luck.. I can only seem to find the user manual pdf..
Can you do an updated version with orca slicer in mind what settings if u use klipper or marlin generic options or pick the printer if it's available and change a few things... The cura was great now time for an orca version
Hi Ricky, I'm new to 3D printing and have an Ender 3 V3 SE along with a Sonic Pad and an Ender 3 S1 Pro. I managed to setup the S1 to the Sonic Pad and configured with Cura which works great. The problem I have is that I cannot find a profile for Cura to use on the Sonic Pad for my Ender 3 V3 SE. I have looked all over but have not found anything. Could you post or let me know how I would go about creating a profile to use with the custom printer created in Cura?
Thanks
Thanks for the informative video… Found what I was doing wrong
Hello again well I found out the answer to my question creality tec support and Shenzhen got back to me today and told me that they have hopes on adding that printer among a few others in the future. After all most all of the common market place printers and the sonic pad as well are all made by Shenzhen technologies guessing the delay and design have to do with the multi color extrusion. I see in the future a sonic pad S2 ? lol. Any how thank you just the same and blessings your way. Allen
So if my printer is the Max Neo which is not listed in the Creality document, do I just replace the Gcode with whats in the document?
I'd use the Ender 3v2 code for the Neo
Before I switched to this profile I had amazing prints. But the new profiles for Petg are struggling on the s1 pro. It all starts from the initial layer. I'm probably going to slow down the initial layer and see if that helps. Once 1st layers are complete and the printer goes into hyper drive it's lights out.
The fast profile speeds are pretty much a 'maximum possible' option. Try just slowing down the print and infill speeds to around 100/110mm/s until you get the quality you want and then turn it up from there to see what your machine can handle. I have done exactly this with PETG with great results.
Excellent video. You are the best!
I modded my v2 to direct drive and klipper... at the moment I'm using orca slicer...Any tip to update the "default" v2 slicer profile to a better one? since the default is for marlin and the speeds are the base one.. anything from the manual I can take to the slicer to get the most out of modded v2 w/klipper and orca slicer?
I have a Ender 3 Pro and Creality doesn't have profiles for this model spesifically. Can I use S1 or S1 pro profiles?
I wouldn't use the S1 or S1 Pro profiles, they both have direct drive extruders. You would be better off with a standard Ender 3 profile as a starting point.
Ever noticed that the rows of the bed mesh in the print.cfg file have a different order than shown on the sonic pad? The top row on the sonic pad is the bottom row in print.cfg, 2nd from top is 2nd from bottom etc
I have an Ender 3 max neo. I don't quite understand why I am creating a new profile, if I'm just copying all the same info into it? Will we be changing it in the future?
i try with or without BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD="default". I definitely need to write this code to cura start gcode area to make it work. Like you said, we need to write it. Otherwise it doesn't work.
At 6:00 you fill out retraction distance at 4.00 mm. Does it seem really huge for a direct drive printer ? Are you sure of this value ?
I followed the beginning Gcode as specified. The printer laid down the first line then the second and then scraped across the plate to the center. Looking at the differences in the Code on the manual and the existing code there was not a Z axis up command. The other issue was every time it did a calibration to start the print the z setting was too high. I had to remove it and just manually level it and it worked great.
I'm not sure which machine you have but I've just checked all three of the Creality supplied start g-codes and they all set the z height to 0.3mm at the lowest. I'm not entirely sure what you mean by the 'manual' and 'existing' code. I'm happy to help more if you need and what to clarify these for me.
@@RickyImpey Ricky after reading your reply I tried it again. This time I typed in the G-Code rather than cut and paste. and it worked fine. Not sure if somehow after slicing it there were issues or something with the sonic pad. I also reset the sonic pad yesterday. Who knows.
I had the exact same problem on my S1 Plus. First print started 5 mm above the bed. After following the video and double checking the start g-code, it heated to 215C, did a recal of the position, then dropped the temperature to 195C ( witch I did not specify anywhere), and the nozzle took a deep dive into the bed. To make maters worse it has a habit of not lifting the printhead above already printed parts, but just crunching through layers when moving across the printbed. I have no idea how to fix it. CURA is one big mess compared to Prusa slicer. Currently the S1 plus has been sitting idle on my desk for two weeks laughing at me when I enter the room, and I give it The Eye from time to time. I pray somebody will make a profile for Prusa slicer, otherwise I'm f.....d. I could swear it does not use the mesh settings when printing.
any suggestions for using a max neo and cura?
witch of the creatliy cura profileshould i use for a ender 3 pro not the ender 3 s1 pro
We need a settings and profiles video for Orca Slicer.
Hey Ricky! Thank you SO much again for everything! I have a question for you, there must be an issue in my end G code. I use the exact profile and end G Code as you except i followed your steps for adapting it to my printer sorta (I have an ender 3 V1 NEO) I just got the ender 3 NEO SE direct drive by creality. its not very well know. well Ive gone through all the steps and i just came back and i did the profiles to see if i can have a better bases to fine tune off of (I definitely do with these profiles, again thank you) Everything has been awesome the bed mesh at the beginning of printing is life changing lol. At the end of my prints thought I for some reason get this code. I think that the ending G code must just be wrong somehow for my specific printer (V1 NEO) but I am not sure, that is why I am here asking. If anyone else sees this that also had this code thrown could you please help me. THANK YOU so much in advance!! :)
Code in reference -> !! Move out of range: 0.000 230.000 33.750 [3111.225]
Are there profiles available for other slicers such as prusaslicer or orca slicer?
Can you use the Ender 3 V2 profile for the Ender 3 Pro?
Ender 3 S1 Pro + Sonic Pad calibrated (by using all of you videos).
Creality Profile loade in UltiMaker Cura.
All my print results with 'normal' or 'fast' profiles are very bad!!!
Need some help :(
Another vote for Prusaslicer settings
Hi Ricky... Very good series you have here. Your command BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default in your video is correct, not the one you have altered it to in the comments. Its causing a bit of confusion on the sonic pad Facebook group. Its in the official klipper documentation as without ""
Thanks Dave, I had some issues with this in an older firmware version that seemed to need the "" marks.
I've amended the description now👍
hello. I usually use a prusa slicer and just got a sinic pad. among the attached files that it brings only profiles for cure. Is there any way to use them in prusa slicer? thank you
Is there a possibility to create Start G Code (M420 S1 Z10) for Klipper in Cura / Sonic Pad? The question is actually about the command (Z10). Thanks in advance.
Does this settings work with the Ender 3 S1 Plus too?
Hi .. I know im super late to the party but i followed this guide for my S1 Pro and its working great , Now im trying to add a cr-10 v1... i cant for the life of me find any slicer setups for this .. does anyone know where i can look ? or any help is greatly appreciated .. And epic guides Ricky
ENDER 3 V3 SE, i am lost at what start / end code i should be using when creating a new fff printer
does anyone know what
to use ?
I tried importing the cura profiles for my sonic pad and it said it couldn't import because the quality is not compatible. How do I work around this issue?
Did you create the new machine first? You can't just import these to a standard profile.
@@RickyImpey I didn’t. I’ll try that. Thanks.
I'm getting the same error code, I did create a new profile for my printer. I tried to edit the Quality name in the file but still got the same error only with the new quality name. Also, tried shortening the path to the file. I have an Ender S1 plus so the S1 pro should be the correct profiles. Any thoughts? maybe uninstall and start from scratch?
The profiles wont let me add them. Errors and said creality base
Unfortunately, the Creality doesn't add my printers profile I'm using Ender 3 V3 SE.
I've followed the videos and imported Creality's profile and now a print that would take 7h with my previous profile now takes 3h but one issue appeared, the nozzle is scraping the infill pretty hard when traveling above it on the same layer (infill freshly printed and Z didn't move). I've rolled back the changes I made regarding e-steps and pressure advance and the issue prersists. I'm really not understanding how this can be due to higher printing speed, when I use my old profile the scraping almost disappears.
Does anybody have any idea of what could be causing this? I've cleaned, re-leveled the bed and re-adjusted Z offset
Hi Rick! Sorry to bother you again but I'm having an issue. I created another machine profile like you showed in the video and all was well. However when I tried to import profiles that are in Creality Ender 3 S1 plus to my Creality Ender 3 S1 plus SP profile it will not import saying profile not compatible with machine type. Any suggestions you have would be great. Thanks again.
I am having the same issue. If I find a solution, I'll post it here.
Even when I make a profile for the Ender 3 s1, I am now getting a "not compatible with the current active machine definition 'creality_base'
OK I got it to work. So, despite my best efforts it will not work in the creality slicer version of cura. You need the ultimaker version. From there if you follow the steps in the video it works. I managed to create a g-code that works too.
Start code:
; Ender 3 S1 Plus Start G-code
G90
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G28 ;Home all axes
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0
End code:
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
G91 ;Relative positioning
G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out
G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z
G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more
G90 ;Absolute positioning
G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print
M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
Machine Settings:
x(width) 300.0
y(depth) 300.0
z(height) 300.0
x min -26
y min -32
x max 32
y max 34
gantry height 25
After you load the profiles, remember to hit show custom on the print settings drop down menu or the imported profile will not show.
hope this helps
I had an error importing the cura profiles for the s1 pro, is it limited to a specific version?
You need to create the new FFF printer first unfortunately. You can't just import them to an existing profile.
What if you have duel z ABL sensor and filament runout on a ender 3 pro what printer would you use
I’m really slumped, does anyone know what slicer gcode I should use for my Ender 5 plus?
Thank you for your excellent videos. Unfortunately, when I try to import the profiles as per your instructions, it always fails with the error pop-up: "Failed to import profile from C:/Users/wb9sy/OneDrive/Desktop/Ender-3 V2 Profiles/Cura-Ender3V2-normal-PLA.curaprofile: Unable to add the profile." This happens regardless of where I put the profile folder - the error message still appears but with the folder where the files are located. Meanwhile, my Ender-3 V2 Neo is turning filament into junk...
The latest version of Creality Print includes presets for their printers *with the Sonic Pad* as well as without. Selecting that brings up all the needed options already set. Makes a terrific difference! Thank you for detailing the rest of the optimization to get the best results which I am enjoying now!
Hi, great videos, maybe I missed some previous one - can`t find that Enable Firmware Retraction. You must probably have installed Klipper plugin into Cura. Maybe it helps someone.
Still trying to figure out how to "adapt" the Ender 3 S1 Pro profiles for the CR10 V3. It says it's not compatible with the printer.
Did you create a new FFF machine first? You can't import the profiles to an existing machine.
I followed this guide to add my S1 Pro. I thought importing the s1 pro klipper profile configs would set everything up for me and be ready for printing.. It shamefully took me a couple of days and failed/odd prints to realise it isn't so. CHECK THE RETRACTION DISTANCE!!!! Only reason I looked is because my dry filament was popping when printing lol
It sets it to 6.5mm when choosing this printer. The klipper profile does NOT change it.
This brings me to my question. If the printer has a profile in Cura, why don't we pick that instead of the custom one? Surely that would have more correct settings for the printer. And then importing the klipper profile for that printer would change what needs changing?
I'm wondering what other settings arn't correct now
I'll answer my own question after trying.
If you add your printer as the official S1 Pro printer, then importing the klipper profile will fail.
Guess that's why the sonic pad readme tells you to add a custom printer.
Can retraction settings not be configured via profiles? Or is this just something overlooked by creality?
Things like this is why I fricking hate 3d printing sometimes
Your series has been very helpful. With this video, I must be missing something because I cannot find any sonicpad profile parameters for CR10S Pro V2. In the documents they provide, it seems they are only focused on Enders.
After watching through the video several times, I decided to try something hopefully simpler. I went to the machine settings for my CR10S Pro V2, it had been printing to the SonicPad with adjusted profiles as per your videos, In the start g code, I pasted BED_MESH_CALIBRATE and deleted the G29 and M420 codes. It seems that's where you end up anyway. Now to test it. Scary.
I might have missed it, but could someone please help me find the start and end gcode for my v3 se. Video is amazing by the way, love the content
My Sonic pad does not show a printer settings section...