So much efforts to small, old car. You are true enthusiasts! I have same RAV4, 1994 AT from Japan, right side steering wheel. Car is awesome, although it was "used" in all holes by previous owner. But it runs very good, I really appreciate its size, easy parking, and the fact i dont care about new scratches on my bumper)) If you will decide to sell your RAV one day, i am ready to buy!
I'm kind of surprised at the bad gas mileage, I have a 98 rav4 and I get about 24 in town and going down I5 from eugene to portland I get about 30. Horribly gutless though, got beat badly by a Prius leaving a light today and I'm pretty sure that guy didn't know we were racing.
'96 Rav4 AT AWD purchased with 180K miles had similar problem. Bottom right stud had sheared off my warping manifold. Bottom "support" bracket was missing nuts. Front cat was clogged on top, melted away at center, and blew chunks off bottom half resulting in blocked rear cat. I reused the cast manifold after machine shop resurfacing. Cat was dealer replacement so easy direct fit. This was not my first choice but CA requires C.A.R.B. certified cats and Magnaflow/Bosal option failed fitment. Full exhaust was removed to clear as much debris as possible. Muffler was a maze. Everything back in with new gaskets everywhere and two new oxygen sensors and it's now running it's best at 230K miles.
@@LabCoatPaulMy MPGs are still around 22 in mixed driving. Without a top and bottom end engine rebuild, I didn't expect much improvement. At 230K miles, it's tired. At least my emissions have improved and delivery of the power it has left, is smooth and predictable. A major tune-up is about due and I may see some improvement after testing fuel pressure, cleaning injectors, and replacing ignition components and filters as needed.
I would already dream of doing a restoration project of my truck, of this level, congratulations and I see each video that is all an excellent restoration
To test exhaust for leak: connect air blower to exhaust when engine is turned off, take soapy water and start spraying along exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold. Any bubbles - leak.
hey boss nice job, i have a 1999 rav4 awd with the 5spd in good mechanical shape but i can confirm that the car is just slow and that may be the best mpg you'll get. i currently get an average of 20 mpg
Use a MAP gas torch to heat up rusty bolts. An impact wrench is less likely to twist off a bolt than a breaker bar because the vibration can help to loosen it. Be careful with hard to replace bolts near the engine, but down under the car, just break 'em off and get new bolts.
I have a 1999 toyota picnic, this car is consuming 20 litres for 80 KM drive, i have replaced the temperature choke sensor. May be i will try to replace the catalyst and oxygen sensor as well and see if there will be changes.
I'll be test driving one of these (5 doors) in a few days. It's MOT says "Central Vehicle structure is corroded but structural rigidity is not significantly reduced" and "brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material". (These were just advisories.) In the MOT history it doesn't have engine issues but I'm worried about the rust. The car is £750. I was hoping I could spend a couple/few hundred on maintenance and it would be a solid vehicle. I do less than 10,000 miles a year so won't be working it too hard. How much does it cost to replace a brake pipe? Or is it just not worth it?
First thing I would say is RUN away as fast as you can from all the rust. It will be a nightmare that will give you a bad time every step of the way if you work on the car. Watch my suspension lift video to see what it's like to deal with a rusty RAV4: ua-cam.com/video/c1gi9hoCpEI/v-deo.html That being said, if you only do the minimum amount of maintenance to keep the vehicle running, and you don't try to fix it up, a rusty RAV4 could be good cheap transportation for a few years. Replacing the brake line is easy if you have the right tools: Check out my brake line video here: ua-cam.com/video/fruovEA2uPo/v-deo.html
Mr Paul, I love the way you are fixing up your Rav4. I have a 1998 4-door manual and I plan on keeping it forever. I wish I could take it apart and fix all the worn out stuff too but living in an apartment means no working on cars. I am changing out the radio at the moment, which is probably all I can do. Hey, I'm also having trouble with my manifold and cat converters. How about making one more set and selling it to me? I would pay all costs of course.
That apartment life is no fun. I rent a house and have 2 room mates, so it's actually cheaper than an apartment and I have a big garage. :) I don't really have the time (and I don't want to) build another catalytic converter / manifold thing. If I did, it would probably cost you around $500. If you're patient and ask me about it later, I might just sell you my manifold / cat for cheap. I'm planning on doing a 3SGTE turbo engine swap some day. IF I do that, I won't need the old cat and manifold.
Hi! I'm having the same issue with whistling sound when shifting as at 0:26, especially on 2nd gear. In your newer videos the sound is gone. Does changing the exhaust manifold gasket was a fix? I'm quite scared to dig into it and break something without some idea that it can be the gasket
Everything was broken in my car. The exhaust manifold gasket was leaking, as well as the donut shaped exhaust gasket from the manifold to the down pipe. Bad engine mounts can cause the exhaust to leak because the engine will rock back and forth too much and break the flex pipe and loosen the exhaust gaskets. I've had to fix the exhaust a few times, and I'll be doing the engine mounts soon.
I'm considering parting out my rav4 2000 after a recent accident. [i only had liability insurance and person who hit me was uninsured, so i'm at a total loss and very broke right now]. i've had multiple people ask about the catalytic converter, rear exhaust manifold, and front manifold. I have no idea what is a fair price to ask and would love some advice! I'm at a standstill with inquiries because no one wants to say the first offer lol. but seems like they are desirable parts, if its hard to find replacements online? they're in decent condition, rust free and never had issues with exhaust system.
You can check on eBay to find prices for used parts. Be careful selling online. People on facebook groups will say they want the parts, then either flake on you or not pay you. Make sure you get payment before you ship anything. eBay is a more secure way to sell your parts, but they will take 14% of your money. You can also just post it on your local classified ads and have people come get parts in person. Once you're done parting it out, the junkyard will probably give you $300 for the car.
Does this work for the 4 door automatic models as well?? Mine is a 97 but 4 door with auto trans and all wheel drive... Great video and awesome modification!!
Dude that is awesome!. I actually was thinking of doing an engine swap also because my engine now has 193k and hardly has any power left, but I did not know what would fit and what I could use to replace it. I would love to have more horsepower out of this little 5-speed suv, I would get bigger rims and tires so that it would handle better. I just dynamated the ceiling and front doors when I was changing out the stereo. It feels a little quieter but you can really feel it when driving in the sun, it keeps the car cooler. I am also looking for new front seats because the original ones are pretty flat now and I don't feel like reupholstering them, any recommendations? And yes, do the engine swap so that I can do the same to mine. How much horsepower would that engine produce?
Dynamat on the ceiling = cooler car? I'm going to copy your idea! That's awesome. Check out RAV4 GTT on youtube: ua-cam.com/channels/COBmTP4cKXheU2lW011a_Q.html He's one of the first guys to do the 3SGTE swap in the RAV4, and he's basically the leading expert on the subject. The 4th gen 3SGTE engine out of the Japanese Toyota Caldina is what you want. It's a 2.0 liter 4 cylinder, just like the 3SFE that you have, so it bolts right up (kind of). The 3SGTE has a turbo and puts out about 260 hp. Right now you have 120 hp, probably less. It's NOT an easy project. Here are a few of the modifications that need to happen: aftermarket radiator fans for turbo clearance hood scoop for intercooler air re-wire car with new computer replace fuel pump and add a second fuel line to tank get the caldina transmission - yours can't handle 260hp. I've seen the engine with computer on eBay for about $1,500, but you still need the transmission and a whole bunch of other shit, so I'm guessing a total of $5,000 for the whole project and at least 200 hours of labor.
As the owner of a 1996 Rav4 3dr, I've absolutely loved your videos. I followed your guide to replace my rear subframe and completely restore the rear suspension. Unfortunately, I'm also in need of a new catalytic converter and they are impossible to find new. I also live in Colorado so passing emissions has been a nightmare. Does anyone know if it'd be possible to retrofit the magnaflow cat to the exhaust pipe? Paul, I figure if you can find a way to get a Camry exhaust on there, I can probably trim the exhaust pipe to fit the magnaflow cat, right? I have a fluxcore welder and very minor welding experience, so maybe I can make something work?
I’m actually working on a video about emissions right now! 1996 and 1997 rav4 come with 2 catalytic converters. 1 on the manifold, and 1 under the car. I installed 1998 exhaust on mine with just one cat and failed emissions. My car runs just fine, no check engine light, but I failed the visual inspection because I have 1 cat instead of 2. I have an aftermarket walker cat under the car and a stock 1998 RAV4 header on the engine (no cat). I bought a cheap cat for $45 on Amazon and I’m going to weld it on next to the other cat under the car.
You could just get a new cat under the car, move the downstream O2 sensor to under the car and knock out the cat by the engine. (Make it empty). That way it’s present for the inspection. m.ua-cam.com/video/LSsGT6CnrSg/v-deo.html&pp=iAQB
may i ask you where you got all of that knowledge from? im curious because ive spent my past 10 years with cars but still wouldnt be close to being able to do this kind of stuff.
UA-cam. I learned it all on UA-cam. Just kidding - I've been working on cars for almost 20 years, mostly as a hobby. When I have an idea, I just go for it, even if I don't know what I'm doing. By the end of it, I usually figure it out.
i just installed magna flow 452827 catalytic converter on my 1996 rav4 3SFE i had no issues direct fit. I watched this video before thinking id had to modify the converter to fit nope glad i tried to put it on first before i started cutting and welding. hope this helps someone.
Thanks to both of you, the magma flow is a direct fit! This video still helped immensely as it is the only one showing how to do this specific job. Got at least 20 views out of me over the time I fixed it lol thanks again guys
"Annoying" is an understatement for that catalytic converter mount. My goodness. Have you had problems leaking oil because of the clogged cat. converter? If your exhaust can't get out, wouldn't it pressurize your manifold? I'm trying to pinpoint my severe oil leak. Great video, thanks.
Hey , I know this is an old video but I like to rewatch your rav4 videos , I have a 97 4door Rav4 , ever since I got it has had the check engine light on, code is p0172 , change the MAF sensor and cleared the code but it still came back after a day
P0172 means the engine is running too rich. That means there is too much gas, or the fuel isn't being burned properly in the engine. Do you have any other codes? (like P0300 for misfire?) The first thing you should do is catch up on maintenance. Install new spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor if they're bad or old. If that doesn't work, try some fuel injector cleaner, in case the fuel injectors aren't spraying properly. Check your air filter to make sure it isn't plugged. Once you've checked all that and done the repairs, connect your scan tool and look at the live data stream. buy the scan tool if you don't have one: amzn.to/3mWLmh1 check the oxygen sensor voltage upstream and downstream. The upstream sensor should change numbers at least once per second once the engine is warmed up, and should bounce between .2 and 0.8 volts most of the time, staying close to .5. 0.5 volts at the O2 sensor means the engine has the correct air to fuel ratio. It's normal for the ratio to go rich when accelerating, and lean when slowing down.
@@jeisonlopez1986 P0401 is "Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow". Remove the EGR valve from the engine and clean it. It's bolted on to the throttle body. Watch this video: ua-cam.com/video/Ksv98JvBqXs/v-deo.html Jump to 47:44 and 48:33 and 50:22 Make sure all vacuum hoses going to the EGR system are good and don't have cracks. Pop the cover off the round plastic thing with the 3 hoses and clean it out. There's a little filter inside.
@@LabCoatPaulno they arent. 1996 has a different ignition system without a crankcase sensor and running off a direct drive off cam shaft using a distributer
Hey Paul, videos are great, especially the tender date references. Sorry to bother you but I have 1996 two door, and its a rust bucket underneath, though the frame seems rust free. The Engine has 150K and doesn't leak or burn oil. To get to the point, if you had to do it over again, what are a few things you would do first, right away? What upgrades were you like, "I wish I would have done that way sooner?" Or now in hindsight, would you look for a different two door that wasn't so rusty that maybe had a blown engine and just added your engine to it? I'm just on the fence a little and wouldn't mind your advice. Keep the videos coming, thank you!
Hi Robert! The rust was definitely a nightmare, and I could have saved a lot of time and money if I just had a different RAV4. If you watch my lift kit video ua-cam.com/video/c1gi9hoCpEI/v-deo.html you'll see just how bad all that rust was. In hindsight, I should have just bought a car that is less than 10 years old. Then I could just drive it and not have to fix everything. But then I wouldn't have this cool RAV4 or any RAV4 videos.
Pause the video at 2:05 The upstream O2 sensor is attached to the exhaust manifold, and the downstream O2 sensor is attached to the catalytic converter.
What the hell man I have the exact same screech and wouldn’t you know I’m also missing the same stud on cylinder 4, how does that even happen. Edit: installed the new stud and a new flanged nut but still does the squeal. I've been trying to track this down for a month now and I am starting to go insane argh! Maybe its a loose timing belt?
A small exhaust leak from the manifold makes for a clicking sound. Squealing is likely belts. The timing belt has teeth so it can't slip past the gears, therefore it won't squeal. If your alternator and power steering belts are old or have oil on them, get new belts.
@@LabCoatPaul Thanks for the reply Paul, I can't tell you how much I love these videos! I have checked the belts and they're both dry and tight. No cracks either. Tightened the alternator belt a bit and no dice. About a month ago I removed my splash shield because it was rubbing against the AC belt, but removing that didn't solve the sound. In my case it only happens at around 4000 RPM.
@@LabCoatPaul ok, so I checked the power steering belt and it seemed ok until I checked again with the engine on. The power steering pump pulley is really wobbly at idle, so that is probably the source of the belt noise. How can I determine what to replace here? just the pulley or the whole assembly? Doubt its just the belt with how much wobble it has.
Only 20mpg for 150,000miles? Something is wrong Paul. I get 23-26mpg combined. And my motor and transmission has original 230,000 miles! And! Mines the 4 door. Tire size is 235/70/r16. Something is wrong, Paul...
Well, my car does have oil leaking from the #2 exhaust valve seal, and there could be other stuff wrong with the cylinder head. Perhaps you're just a better driver than me, or you spend more time on the highway.
@@LabCoatPaul ouch!!! That sucks! Youll most certainly want to do an engine rebuild eventually. And no I do not baby it either! First off I'm pretty sure you are aware of how low first gear is and how high second gear is. So with the bigger tires on it I got to floor it in first gear to four or five thousand RPMs you know to get up to speed lol. And obviously floor it in second to get to third and then finally shift a fifth for cruising speed in town driving. And towing 1800 lb! With the big tires does not help either! I have to floor it to red line for first and second gear and floor it to the top side of third and then I can shift to fourth gear and cruise at 55 to 60 mph If I go to 5th I'll have to floor it and I'll lose speed. I plan on taking 200 lb out of the trailer. And hopefully by June or July I will have the engine rebuilt. Because there is no way it's going to last another 20,000 miles. I was wanting to keep it running until 250000 that way I can tell everyone I have a quarter million mile RAV4 lol! The massive oil leak I have is coming from the oil pump seal. I am currently replacing the whole oil pump which means I must redo the oil pan gasket! And that sucks major ass! It is a real pain in the ass. So I'm also doing all of the seals on the side of the motor since I'm down there. New timing kit water pump oil pump camshaft seal crankshaft seal other seals and hopefully I'll only leak minimum oil instead of a gallon of oil every 80 miles!
Obdulio, lamento decirte que la carretera de "algún dia" llega al pueblo de "nunca". Ponle fecha, empieza a ahorrar, lleva una bitácora ya sea diaria o semanal anotando el progreso del proyecto, escribe cientos de veces en una libreta algo como "tendré mi RAV4 customatizado", visualiza, visualiza, visualiza el proyecto final, y no te des por vencido. Yo tengo ya casi 20 años con mi RAV4 1997 cuatro puertas y 350K millas con el motor original. Cuando muera me van a enterrar con el. Te deseo lo mejor hermano.
Thanks for watching! My fuel pump isn't broken yet, so I'm going to wait a bit. If I swap the engine, I'll need a different fuel pump. That might happen next year.
My 96 rav squealed just like that. Found out it was exhaust escaping between the exhaust manifold and the block like a horrific whistle due to a completely clogged cat. So, I air chiseled out the cat and now run with codes. Also leak copious amounts of oil.
@@LabCoatPaul yup, i can tell, but once they get new parts, the last a long time, i change the fans, took me a while, but it's been a while, and is working perfect, my challenge is now, geting a MR2 MK1, always love that car.
@@LabCoatPaul my favorite is the MR2 mk 1, but i never seen it with a K-swap, i feel that the Aw11 should have a more esay to work engine since in mid engine car, there very few mid engine cars made in Japan, so MR2 is the answer for me, i love working on my Honda, so i imagine some how, i will learn to work in an MR2! Thanks bro, love your videos.
@@LabCoatPaul I bought a rav4 1998 housing with manual gear box. it has no seats but i would like to build it up. like you. Do you have a site where i can get the blueprint or owners manual?
@@TukundaneYonna Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/P1PnqG6Mcok/v-deo.html The toyota parts website has diagram of the whole car. The owners manual is pretty useless. It tells you how to operate the radio and seat belts. It tells you nothing about how to repair the car. You can try to find a service manual. Or just watch my videos! :)
Some RAV4's don't have any rust. Look for one that spent most of its life in Arizona or southern California. Otherwise, you'll be stuck working on your car and not driving it, like me.
Got mine from a old lady in a retirement home, she was moving from an apartment into the big building. The car had been sitting in her garage for 3 years. Her son said it had been garaged it's entire life, 98 with 108k miles for $1700. Of course I hit a deer a month later.
So much efforts to small, old car. You are true enthusiasts! I have same RAV4, 1994 AT from Japan, right side steering wheel. Car is awesome, although it was "used" in all holes by previous owner. But it runs very good, I really appreciate its size, easy parking, and the fact i dont care about new scratches on my bumper)) If you will decide to sell your RAV one day, i am ready to buy!
I'm kind of surprised at the bad gas mileage, I have a 98 rav4 and I get about 24 in town and going down I5 from eugene to portland I get about 30. Horribly gutless though, got beat badly by a Prius leaving a light today and I'm pretty sure that guy didn't know we were racing.
i genuinely love your title card and transition lol
thanks for this video! :)
your delivery of information is easily digestible, which is awesome!
'96 Rav4 AT AWD purchased with 180K miles had similar problem. Bottom right stud had sheared off my warping manifold. Bottom "support" bracket was missing nuts. Front cat was clogged on top, melted away at center, and blew chunks off bottom half resulting in blocked rear cat. I reused the cast manifold after machine shop resurfacing. Cat was dealer replacement so easy direct fit. This was not my first choice but CA requires C.A.R.B. certified cats and Magnaflow/Bosal option failed fitment. Full exhaust was removed to clear as much debris as possible. Muffler was a maze. Everything back in with new gaskets everywhere and two new oxygen sensors and it's now running it's best at 230K miles.
Did you happen to get gas mileage numbers before and after you fixed your exhaust?
@@LabCoatPaulMy MPGs are still around 22 in mixed driving. Without a top and bottom end engine rebuild, I didn't expect much improvement. At 230K miles, it's tired. At least my emissions have improved and delivery of the power it has left, is smooth and predictable. A major tune-up is about due and I may see some improvement after testing fuel pressure, cleaning injectors, and replacing ignition components and filters as needed.
Masterful!!! You do you own work. Great video.
nice video, great work.
If I ride with a light foot, max 65mph, city and high-way, I can squeeze out 28mpg with my 5drs '98 rav4.
That's very good gas mileage!
Use a double nut method for installing and removing studs, please!
I would already dream of doing a restoration project of my truck, of this level, congratulations and I see each video that is all an excellent restoration
Thanks for watching! I hope some of my restoration tips are useful.
To test exhaust for leak: connect air blower to exhaust when engine is turned off, take soapy water and start spraying along exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold. Any bubbles - leak.
super vidéo bravo! On dirait que sur les RAV4 après 1998, il n'y ait qu'une seule 02 sensor...?
Паша, ты молодец!!
hey boss nice job, i have a 1999 rav4 awd with the 5spd in good mechanical shape but i can confirm that the car is just slow and that may be the best mpg you'll get. i currently get an average of 20 mpg
I've heard of people getting 28mpg in a RAV4, but I always suspected they just calculated their mileage wrong.
@@LabCoatPaul wow yea thats better than the epa rated mpg
Nick Alexander not sure exactly how many mpg I achieve but I’ve a 1999 automatic and can’t really complain
Hello, Recently is had the head gasket replaced, redone the radiator, tem sensor and my Rav4 1999 sthill warms. what should I do?
How did you manage not to break all those studs and bolts? I’m getting ready to replace exhaust been rewelded several times
Use a MAP gas torch to heat up rusty bolts. An impact wrench is less likely to twist off a bolt than a breaker bar because the vibration can help to loosen it. Be careful with hard to replace bolts near the engine, but down under the car, just break 'em off and get new bolts.
I have a 1999 toyota picnic, this car is consuming 20 litres for 80 KM drive, i have replaced the temperature choke sensor. May be i will try to replace the catalyst and oxygen sensor as well and see if there will be changes.
I'll be test driving one of these (5 doors) in a few days. It's MOT says "Central Vehicle structure is corroded but structural rigidity is not significantly reduced" and "brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material". (These were just advisories.)
In the MOT history it doesn't have engine issues but I'm worried about the rust. The car is £750. I was hoping I could spend a couple/few hundred on maintenance and it would be a solid vehicle. I do less than 10,000 miles a year so won't be working it too hard. How much does it cost to replace a brake pipe? Or is it just not worth it?
First thing I would say is RUN away as fast as you can from all the rust. It will be a nightmare that will give you a bad time every step of the way if you work on the car. Watch my suspension lift video to see what it's like to deal with a rusty RAV4: ua-cam.com/video/c1gi9hoCpEI/v-deo.html
That being said, if you only do the minimum amount of maintenance to keep the vehicle running, and you don't try to fix it up, a rusty RAV4 could be good cheap transportation for a few years.
Replacing the brake line is easy if you have the right tools: Check out my brake line video here: ua-cam.com/video/fruovEA2uPo/v-deo.html
Mr Paul, I love the way you are fixing up your Rav4. I have a 1998 4-door manual and I plan on keeping it forever. I wish I could take it apart and fix all the worn out stuff too but living in an apartment means no working on cars. I am changing out the radio at the moment, which is probably all I can do. Hey, I'm also having trouble with my manifold and cat converters. How about making one more set and selling it to me? I would pay all costs of course.
That apartment life is no fun. I rent a house and have 2 room mates, so it's actually cheaper than an apartment and I have a big garage. :)
I don't really have the time (and I don't want to) build another catalytic converter / manifold thing. If I did, it would probably cost you around $500.
If you're patient and ask me about it later, I might just sell you my manifold / cat for cheap. I'm planning on doing a 3SGTE turbo engine swap some day. IF I do that, I won't need the old cat and manifold.
Hi! I'm having the same issue with whistling sound when shifting as at 0:26, especially on 2nd gear. In your newer videos the sound is gone. Does changing the exhaust manifold gasket was a fix?
I'm quite scared to dig into it and break something without some idea that it can be the gasket
Everything was broken in my car. The exhaust manifold gasket was leaking, as well as the donut shaped exhaust gasket from the manifold to the down pipe. Bad engine mounts can cause the exhaust to leak because the engine will rock back and forth too much and break the flex pipe and loosen the exhaust gaskets. I've had to fix the exhaust a few times, and I'll be doing the engine mounts soon.
I'm considering parting out my rav4 2000 after a recent accident. [i only had liability insurance and person who hit me was uninsured, so i'm at a total loss and very broke right now].
i've had multiple people ask about the catalytic converter, rear exhaust manifold, and front manifold. I have no idea what is a fair price to ask and would love some advice! I'm at a standstill with inquiries because no one wants to say the first offer lol.
but seems like they are desirable parts, if its hard to find replacements online? they're in decent condition, rust free and never had issues with exhaust system.
You can check on eBay to find prices for used parts. Be careful selling online. People on facebook groups will say they want the parts, then either flake on you or not pay you. Make sure you get payment before you ship anything. eBay is a more secure way to sell your parts, but they will take 14% of your money. You can also just post it on your local classified ads and have people come get parts in person. Once you're done parting it out, the junkyard will probably give you $300 for the car.
Does this work for the 4 door automatic models as well?? Mine is a 97 but 4 door with auto trans and all wheel drive... Great video and awesome modification!!
Did you ever find one for you? I have the same rav
Dude that is awesome!. I actually was thinking of doing an engine swap also because my engine now has 193k and hardly has any power left, but I did not know what would fit and what I could use to replace it. I would love to have more horsepower out of this little 5-speed suv, I would get bigger rims and tires so that it would handle better. I just dynamated the ceiling and front doors when I was changing out the stereo. It feels a little quieter but you can really feel it when driving in the sun, it keeps the car cooler. I am also looking for new front seats because the original ones are pretty flat now and I don't feel like reupholstering them, any recommendations? And yes, do the engine swap so that I can do the same to mine. How much horsepower would that engine produce?
Dynamat on the ceiling = cooler car? I'm going to copy your idea! That's awesome.
Check out RAV4 GTT on youtube: ua-cam.com/channels/COBmTP4cKXheU2lW011a_Q.html
He's one of the first guys to do the 3SGTE swap in the RAV4, and he's basically the leading expert on the subject.
The 4th gen 3SGTE engine out of the Japanese Toyota Caldina is what you want. It's a 2.0 liter 4 cylinder, just like the 3SFE that you have, so it bolts right up (kind of). The 3SGTE has a turbo and puts out about 260 hp. Right now you have 120 hp, probably less.
It's NOT an easy project. Here are a few of the modifications that need to happen:
aftermarket radiator fans for turbo clearance
hood scoop for intercooler air
re-wire car with new computer
replace fuel pump and add a second fuel line to tank
get the caldina transmission - yours can't handle 260hp.
I've seen the engine with computer on eBay for about $1,500, but you still need the transmission and a whole bunch of other shit, so I'm guessing a total of $5,000 for the whole project and at least 200 hours of labor.
As the owner of a 1996 Rav4 3dr, I've absolutely loved your videos. I followed your guide to replace my rear subframe and completely restore the rear suspension. Unfortunately, I'm also in need of a new catalytic converter and they are impossible to find new. I also live in Colorado so passing emissions has been a nightmare. Does anyone know if it'd be possible to retrofit the magnaflow cat to the exhaust pipe? Paul, I figure if you can find a way to get a Camry exhaust on there, I can probably trim the exhaust pipe to fit the magnaflow cat, right? I have a fluxcore welder and very minor welding experience, so maybe I can make something work?
I’m actually working on a video about emissions right now! 1996 and 1997 rav4 come with 2 catalytic converters. 1 on the manifold, and 1 under the car.
I installed 1998 exhaust on mine with just one cat and failed emissions.
My car runs just fine, no check engine light, but I failed the visual inspection because I have 1 cat instead of 2. I have an aftermarket walker cat under the car and a stock 1998 RAV4 header on the engine (no cat).
I bought a cheap cat for $45 on Amazon and I’m going to weld it on next to the other cat under the car.
You could just get a new cat under the car, move the downstream O2 sensor to under the car and knock out the cat by the engine. (Make it empty). That way it’s present for the inspection.
m.ua-cam.com/video/LSsGT6CnrSg/v-deo.html&pp=iAQB
may i ask you where you got all of that knowledge from? im curious because ive spent my past 10 years with cars but still wouldnt be close to being able to do this kind of stuff.
UA-cam. I learned it all on UA-cam.
Just kidding - I've been working on cars for almost 20 years, mostly as a hobby. When I have an idea, I just go for it, even if I don't know what I'm doing. By the end of it, I usually figure it out.
verry nice video series . i am lookingto buy the same car for my dad and it wil helpme to fix it :)
i just installed magna flow 452827 catalytic converter on my 1996 rav4 3SFE i had no issues direct fit. I watched this video before thinking id had to modify the converter to fit nope glad i tried to put it on first before i started cutting and welding. hope this helps someone.
so did you still do some trimming? so to say that is not an exact fit, am I right? I'm ready to order 452827.
This has helped been sitting here staring at it wondering wether to even try. Thanks.
Thanks to both of you, the magma flow is a direct fit! This video still helped immensely as it is the only one showing how to do this specific job. Got at least 20 views out of me over the time I fixed it lol thanks again guys
I just broke out the honeycomb inside the catalytic. So its hollow inside now. Runs better now
That's great! Did you get a check engine light P0420 for the downstream O2 sensor after that?
@@LabCoatPaul I added a spark plug defouler on both O2 sensors and code turned off. This is just for now, i want to swap a Beams engine in the future
@@jameshoward8544 That's awesome! The defouler is cheap and easy.
Great video! However you shouldn’t call that rusty until you’ve seen mine😂 22 years in Wisconsin takes a toll on the car!
"Annoying" is an understatement for that catalytic converter mount. My goodness. Have you had problems leaking oil because of the clogged cat. converter? If your exhaust can't get out, wouldn't it pressurize your manifold? I'm trying to pinpoint my severe oil leak. Great video, thanks.
Can the 1997 rav4 use the obd scanner
Every car in the United States 1996 and newer has OBD 2. It might be different in other countries. This is my favorite OBD 2 scanner: amzn.to/39yWszK
Hey , I know this is an old video but I like to rewatch your rav4 videos , I have a 97 4door Rav4 , ever since I got it has had the check engine light on, code is p0172 , change the MAF sensor and cleared the code but it still came back after a day
P0172 means the engine is running too rich. That means there is too much gas, or the fuel isn't being burned properly in the engine. Do you have any other codes? (like P0300 for misfire?)
The first thing you should do is catch up on maintenance. Install new spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor if they're bad or old.
If that doesn't work, try some fuel injector cleaner, in case the fuel injectors aren't spraying properly. Check your air filter to make sure it isn't plugged.
Once you've checked all that and done the repairs, connect your scan tool and look at the live data stream.
buy the scan tool if you don't have one: amzn.to/3mWLmh1
check the oxygen sensor voltage upstream and downstream. The upstream sensor should change numbers at least once per second once the engine is warmed up, and should bounce between .2 and 0.8 volts most of the time, staying close to .5. 0.5 volts at the O2 sensor means the engine has the correct air to fuel ratio. It's normal for the ratio to go rich when accelerating, and lean when slowing down.
@@LabCoatPaul hey thanks for the quick reply, I also have p0401
@@jeisonlopez1986 P0401 is "Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow". Remove the EGR valve from the engine and clean it. It's bolted on to the throttle body.
Watch this video: ua-cam.com/video/Ksv98JvBqXs/v-deo.html
Jump to 47:44 and 48:33 and 50:22
Make sure all vacuum hoses going to the EGR system are good and don't have cracks. Pop the cover off the round plastic thing with the 3 hoses and clean it out. There's a little filter inside.
Are the 1996 rav4
And 1997 exactly the same?
Yes.
@@LabCoatPaulno they arent. 1996 has a different ignition system without a crankcase sensor and running off a direct drive off cam shaft using a distributer
How do you reset the check engine for 02 sensor
Use a scan tool like this one: amzn.to/3bkV2K8
This is a video about it: ua-cam.com/video/1lGeXxJWbFQ/v-deo.html
Hey Paul, videos are great, especially the tender date references. Sorry to bother you but I have 1996 two door, and its a rust bucket underneath, though the frame seems rust free. The Engine has 150K and doesn't leak or burn oil. To get to the point, if you had to do it over again, what are a few things you would do first, right away? What upgrades were you like, "I wish I would have done that way sooner?" Or now in hindsight, would you look for a different two door that wasn't so rusty that maybe had a blown engine and just added your engine to it? I'm just on the fence a little and wouldn't mind your advice. Keep the videos coming, thank you!
Hi Robert! The rust was definitely a nightmare, and I could have saved a lot of time and money if I just had a different RAV4. If you watch my lift kit video ua-cam.com/video/c1gi9hoCpEI/v-deo.html you'll see just how bad all that rust was. In hindsight, I should have just bought a car that is less than 10 years old. Then I could just drive it and not have to fix everything. But then I wouldn't have this cool RAV4 or any RAV4 videos.
@@LabCoatPaul
So true, and the videos were definitely worth it! I appreciate the reply, and please keep the videos and dry wit coming!
Good tutorial..
hi paul, am Stef from uganda, kindly show me the location of both oxygen (fuel air sensors of this rav4). thank you
Pause the video at 2:05 The upstream O2 sensor is attached to the exhaust manifold, and the downstream O2 sensor is attached to the catalytic converter.
Спасибо за видео! Привет из России!!! У меня такая же машина, правый руль 3s ge beams.
Very nice ! I love your videos !
What is the number of second catalytic converter 7:55
It's the walker 53416. It's at 7:20 in the video
What the hell man I have the exact same screech and wouldn’t you know I’m also missing the same stud on cylinder 4, how does that even happen.
Edit: installed the new stud and a new flanged nut but still does the squeal. I've been trying to track this down for a month now and I am starting to go insane argh! Maybe its a loose timing belt?
A small exhaust leak from the manifold makes for a clicking sound. Squealing is likely belts. The timing belt has teeth so it can't slip past the gears, therefore it won't squeal. If your alternator and power steering belts are old or have oil on them, get new belts.
@@LabCoatPaul Thanks for the reply Paul, I can't tell you how much I love these videos!
I have checked the belts and they're both dry and tight. No cracks either. Tightened the alternator belt a bit and no dice. About a month ago I removed my splash shield because it was rubbing against the AC belt, but removing that didn't solve the sound. In my case it only happens at around 4000 RPM.
@@LabCoatPaul ok, so I checked the power steering belt and it seemed ok until I checked again with the engine on. The power steering pump pulley is really wobbly at idle, so that is probably the source of the belt noise. How can I determine what to replace here? just the pulley or the whole assembly? Doubt its just the belt with how much wobble it has.
Think i'll do something similiar except i'll TIG weld mine.
Only 20mpg for 150,000miles? Something is wrong Paul. I get 23-26mpg combined. And my motor and transmission has original 230,000 miles! And! Mines the 4 door. Tire size is 235/70/r16. Something is wrong, Paul...
Well, my car does have oil leaking from the #2 exhaust valve seal, and there could be other stuff wrong with the cylinder head. Perhaps you're just a better driver than me, or you spend more time on the highway.
@@LabCoatPaul ouch!!! That sucks! Youll most certainly want to do an engine rebuild eventually. And no I do not baby it either! First off I'm pretty sure you are aware of how low first gear is and how high second gear is. So with the bigger tires on it I got to floor it in first gear to four or five thousand RPMs you know to get up to speed lol. And obviously floor it in second to get to third and then finally shift a fifth for cruising speed in town driving. And towing 1800 lb! With the big tires does not help either! I have to floor it to red line for first and second gear and floor it to the top side of third and then I can shift to fourth gear and cruise at 55 to 60 mph If I go to 5th I'll have to floor it and I'll lose speed. I plan on taking 200 lb out of the trailer. And hopefully by June or July I will have the engine rebuilt. Because there is no way it's going to last another 20,000 miles. I was wanting to keep it running until 250000 that way I can tell everyone I have a quarter million mile RAV4 lol! The massive oil leak I have is coming from the oil pump seal. I am currently replacing the whole oil pump which means I must redo the oil pan gasket! And that sucks major ass! It is a real pain in the ass. So I'm also doing all of the seals on the side of the motor since I'm down there. New timing kit water pump oil pump camshaft seal crankshaft seal other seals and hopefully I'll only leak minimum oil instead of a gallon of oil every 80 miles!
You are awesome
Good job
Que belleza algún día tendré un carro de estos
Obdulio, lamento decirte que la carretera de "algún dia" llega al pueblo de "nunca". Ponle fecha, empieza a ahorrar, lleva una bitácora ya sea diaria o semanal anotando el progreso del proyecto, escribe cientos de veces en una libreta algo como "tendré mi RAV4 customatizado", visualiza, visualiza, visualiza el proyecto final, y no te des por vencido.
Yo tengo ya casi 20 años con mi RAV4 1997 cuatro puertas y 350K millas con el motor original. Cuando muera me van a enterrar con el. Te deseo lo mejor hermano.
Good job.
I like your channel so much! Can you make a video how to change fuel pump? I will really appreciate it! 😊
Thanks for watching! My fuel pump isn't broken yet, so I'm going to wait a bit. If I swap the engine, I'll need a different fuel pump. That might happen next year.
@@LabCoatPaul thank you for recognizing! I'll wait for it! Keep it up!
My 96 rav squealed just like that. Found out it was exhaust escaping between the exhaust manifold and the block like a horrific whistle due to a completely clogged cat. So, I air chiseled out the cat and now run with codes. Also leak copious amounts of oil.
СУПЕР!!!!
wow no one has made an after market solution that works sad
I need start working on my 1998 rav
Good luck! They're great cars, but very old, therefore expensive to fix.
@@LabCoatPaul yup, i can tell, but once they get new parts, the last a long time, i change the fans, took me a while, but it's been a while, and is working perfect, my challenge is now, geting a MR2 MK1, always love that car.
@@島袋誠-z6k The MR2 is a cool car, but can be pretty hard to work on.
@@LabCoatPaul my favorite is the MR2 mk 1, but i never seen it with a K-swap, i feel that the Aw11 should have a more esay to work engine since in mid engine car, there very few mid engine cars made in Japan, so MR2 is the answer for me, i love working on my Honda, so i imagine some how, i will learn to work in an MR2! Thanks bro, love your videos.
how can we get intouch.
Hi! If you have questions about your RAV4, you can just comment here!
@@LabCoatPaul I bought a rav4 1998 housing with manual gear box. it has no seats but i would like to build it up. like you. Do you have a site where i can get the blueprint or owners manual?
@@TukundaneYonna Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/P1PnqG6Mcok/v-deo.html
The toyota parts website has diagram of the whole car.
The owners manual is pretty useless. It tells you how to operate the radio and seat belts. It tells you nothing about how to repair the car.
You can try to find a service manual. Or just watch my videos! :)
Good mods but damn these cats and exhaust headers are expensive. Why are these so hard to find at a decent price even in 2020???????????????????????
❤love you
This the problem on my car 😕😕😕
ليتك تترجم للعربيه
Your episodes are confusing me. I'm not sure if i want one or not because of all the rust!
Some RAV4's don't have any rust. Look for one that spent most of its life in Arizona or southern California. Otherwise, you'll be stuck working on your car and not driving it, like me.
@@LabCoatPaul thanks for the advice Paul! Will keep looking out for your great videos.
Got mine from a old lady in a retirement home, she was moving from an apartment into the big building. The car had been sitting in her garage for 3 years. Her son said it had been garaged it's entire life, 98 with 108k miles for $1700. Of course I hit a deer a month later.
If you have 2 cats it's California spec. Federal spec only has one cat. Nothing to do with Toyota engineering, blame California.