Climbing Fails 6! (Hitting the DECK!!!)
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- Опубліковано 19 чер 2020
- Hey guys climbing fails are back! This time we have some viewer submissions. As always these videos are meant to help the community to be a bit safer and not to poke fun. There were no serious injuries in the making of these fails! Climbing on Climb safe!
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Hey guys what do you think: is it better to belay off yourself or right off an anchor?
Is that a trick question? Haha. I, personally, think it is best to belay off yourself with yourself attached to the anchor. But I also guess it would depend on the situation. Multi pitch or single?
Auto block device (reversos, atc guide, etc) from the anchor so you can keep everything managed and not have the weight on yourself.
Depends on a lot of things. In the end you could probably say that on hard, well secured alpine sport climbs it's better to belay off yourself to get a better general handling. Also, if your belaying with auto blockers (ct alpine up, edelrid megajul/gigajul) you should not really belay off an anchor because you can't dynamically catch all fall.
You normally belay off the anchor while climbing more alpine route (less bolts, bad mobile placements,...). Also belaying off the anchor works universally no matter the conditions, weight difference and so on. But it's important not to use auto blockers off the anchor, especially in badly secured terrain.
Obligatory English is not my first language. I hope you liked my story.
Depends. If I'm bringing up my young son (lighter than me) there's a good chance I'll need to give him a super tight rope to assist some section and that's easier belaying from harness. If was my dad (heavier than me) I'd want to be able to rescue and haul which is easier to get into when guide mode. All this assuming there are totally bomber anchors. I've had to sit on a ledge and waist belay partners a few times when anchors sketchy, that's really not good!
8:32 "are you ok?" "Yeah! Hell yeah!!" 🤣
that extended intro was gold lmaoo
Yeah that was pretty awesome lol
Getting some solid spotting tips in this one. "The shouldering into 3rd base".
That intro was amazing.
premium quality content
The dude who decks off of the trad fall, if his belayer had been standing underneath the first piece rather than away from it would have probably prevented it popping out. The angle of pull on the piece was straight out rather than downwards, something the leader probably didn't account for. I think it's super important to have your belayer in the right place and if it's not possible to have them under the first piece then place a something that can take multidirectional loads.
@@DrDeuteron it's easy, you stand under the first piece of pro if it's a wire, not 5miles back from the wall
If this problem is a 9 dimensional Lagrangian for you maybe you shouldn't trad climb
Since no one has mentioned it yet, 3:35 "Don't let the rock tell you what you can and can't do!" Rock - "Your insolence shall be punished by fall, to ground." In all seriousness I hope he's OK after that nasty thud from rock hitting spine. Less of a fail and more of a freak accident.
I heard that too. Kind of hilarious. And also, you're supposed to listen to the rock.
Intro production quality off the chain.
The 10 falls you are refering to are factor 2 falls on a very static configuration. This fall was not even near to this load. In any case this is a standard test and you cannot compare it directly to real situations.
UIAA falls are ff 1.7 I think but you're right you have to fall past your belayer, so impossible unless you are multi-pitching
@@SCD7 thank you for the correction. Checked it and there 30cm of rope to the edge resulting in ff a 1.71. Learning every day something new.
That last bouldering catch was epic. 😂
first fails' video i actually see! definitely going to check out the other 5 ones!
Thank you for these. I would suggest that if you leave it on freeze frame for a longer PSA, then you should leave it at frame showing the wrongful setup that you walk us through, not just after the fall has already happened. The most valuable lesson is learnt from showing why the setup was shaky to begin with.
9:26
That is just what my girlfriend says: "do something down there"
Just don't use chalk, ok?
@@brunotvrs 😂
I replayed that intro like 4 times and turned up the volume for each one. Perfect!
Yeah that intro earned my subscription... Well played.
love the intro with the key board lmao and that computer is bad ass
That intro cracked me up real good. :D Shoulderig the girl at the end was a real good one. I Love your videos. What are your top 5 most used knots?
Giovanny Gatto LoL hm top 5: figure 8, over hand, alpine butterfly, bowline, box knot-because shoe laces lol
hey man, youve got a sick rig! got those same headphones! so good!
Homeboy lucked out with that cunning Boulder spot yeeeeeeaaaaaahhhh boi.
Good examples and fantastic intro!
No 2: I'll tell you what type of rock that is: it's schist, that's what it is.
Looked like Shale to me before you said it.. especially in the shape of the underside of that bit of overhang. Anyway, great content! Nothing like horror stories to instill an innate desire to stick to proper climbing technique.
Great video Josh!
7:00 - just wanted to mention: With more slack the (peak) force in the System is less, not more because the rope is able to absorb more force. Not a reason to hit the Deck tho ;)
Keep up the good and entertaining content!
Love the climbing fail reaction vids!! Conclusion of series... please learn how to belay before taking your friends life in your hands!! Also wear a helmet 👍🏻
The second one reminds me of birdsboro in Pennsylvania. Fun spot but notoriously chossarific.
7:17 He actually had two pieces pop
Wow so maybe poorly placed gear or bad rock or a combination of both then huh 🤔
@William Douglas, right. I thought at first that his protection zippered from the bottom, because his first piece wasn't placed for an outward pull; however, it looks like his top piece came out first. Seems neither piece was placed well.
That intro was LEGENDARY
Awesome intro !
man the second one was scary!
03:41 Why was his rope not clipped into the first quickdraw? This may have saved him when the second quickdraw failed.
Here in Germany, it's obsolete leaving out quickdraws. We sometimes leave out clipping the first quickdraw, if it's kinda close to the ground (in order to prevent a light belayer from getting pulled into the quickdraw in case of a fall of the climber). But if the first quickdraw is so high up, would you leave it out?
The way he is secured now is almost like toprope climbing from a single bolt, not an ankre. Not recommended at all, is it?
Looking forward to your comments, folks!
Hi there, may I ask... why would it be bad for a light belayer to be pulled into the first quickdraw?
@@bernieporter3780 Hi Bernie,
well, this may mean that your belay device is pulled up right into the first quickdraw. All sorts of things can happen then and this experience will often neither be gentle to the belayer nor to the climber since the rope (which so far has been slowed down softly) suddenly gets stuck.
At least I HOPE that the rope gets stuck rather than that the belay device will even FAIL if it collides with the first quickdraw.
For ATC's and auto-tubers like the Mammut Smart I have reasons to believe that they will fully block the rope hands-free if ending up in the first quick-draw. Apart from the hard catch that causes for the climber, the belayer will have even difficulties to release the rope from the device again!
Imagine a situation where the climber can't climb up again (as he/she is not anyway near the overhanging wall or is even injured) and the belayer can't give any slack because the rope is fully blocked in the blocked belay device...
Let alone the risk that the "free" hand of the belayer (the one which is not on the break strand) gets pulled into the first quickdraw. Autsch!! We teach belayers to move the free hand away from the load strand and towards the break strand in case of a fall (possibly assisting the other hand holding the break strand) but in real life where everything happens in fractions of a second there is a risk that the belayer keeps on holding the load strand with his/her "free" hand and will have it severely injured when getting into the first quickdraw.
Thus, in scenarios like you find in many gyms but also at some crags where the first bolt is kinda low and the climber is very confident about climbing the first meters, it is common practice here that a climber heavier than the belayer leaves out the first bolt and puts the first quickdraw into the second bolt.
Or: he/she puts the first quickdraw into the first bolt but once he/she clipped into the second quickdraw, he/she clips out of the first quickdraw if the first one is still in easy reach.
If the start of the route is easy to climb, this is a simple & safe measure to ensure the light belayer has enough space to travel upwards without getting pulled into the first quickdraw. Does this make sense?
Dude's hilarious
At 0:09 you can understand why this UA-cam climbing channel is underground 👍
The normed falls into the rope the manufacturers give are actually way above anything you will ever experience while climbing (and if you would ever put a fall like that into a rope you might not be able to climb again in the future anyways :D), otherwise you would have quite a big problem in sports climbing. Of course you can project a route and fall in more or less the same spot 10 times and your rope will still be safe. Does it reduce the lifespan of your rope? Sure. Should you check your rope often? Yes. But reducing it to something like 10 falls when there's a lot more to be said about where that number comes from? Nope
Haha love the beginning! Are you sure you aren't a dj?
derek atwood dj joshua Perry has a ring to it lol 😂
@@BetaClimbers yeah it does! I'll be watching for more music videos in the future!
7:30 : could the position of the belayer (very far right) a reason of the pieces pop out ? It looks like because he is far away, the tension is not vertical when he falls, as the climber expected to be when he positioned the protections
For sure! If that is not the intended load direction the piece can definitely move and pop out. Good Eye!
Great videos, can you maybe loop the clips as you talk about them? I feel like it would make for more enjoyable viewing and people can analyze as you talk. Peace!
Good idea thanks 🤙🏻
awesome intro!!
Second fall, where the bolt popped out, one important difference should be highlighted. There are different techniques how to arrest a bolt. All of those using mechanical setup have the issue of corrosion.
As water is kept between rock an bolt, although only tiniest distance remains in between or actually exactly because it does, the ferritic material will degraged. Slowly, steadily. It is called the capillary effect (not native, right term?), and capable of trapping water for days after precipitation and drying up all around outside.
There is one way to avoid the above described problem. Instead of the mechanical way the bolt can be glued/cemented into the drilled hole. Keeps water out and bolt in. If you bolt anyway take the little extra effort and smudge the sticky stuff in right along.
That first one... WTF. There's trust in your equipment, then there's that...
Anyone know if the first clip is "Double O" at Whipps Ledges?
Yep lol
That 7-to-10 fall limit is tested with 8kN-to-12kN impacts, HARD climbing falls may reasonably reach 4kN but it's common to be around 2kN impacts (Thank goodness, 4kN hurts, 8 will probably end the climbing session).
I'm not sure why that limit is advertised on ropes, but it would be a real disappointment if you could only take 10 normal falls. It's EXPENSIVE and people already keep ropes well after it should be replaced with shot cores and fuzzy sheaths, I couldn't imagine having to buy 4 sets of rope because you found a project.
Last clip is how I hope to meet my wife
"Are you okay?". Responds "Yeah yeah" with a comforting pat at her crotch?
Just as a correction. The falls they test the rope with are fall factor 1 falls which you almost never manage to produce in a sport climbing scenario, unless you fall into your first bolt and almost deck. So it’s not true that your rope gives out after 8 falls in the same spot. We would all be decking regularly….
Yeah it’s really hard to fall in the same exact spot and you should see a dead spot hopefully before a snap. Appreciate the feedback.
9:01 Lost connection to server ! 🤣🤣
The 2nd to the last climbing fall you can see that the pieces weren't placed in the direction of fall. When the climber fell it would have rocked the cams as he weighted them. I saw the original video and he did this multiple times before sending the climb. Perhaps he needs some more instruction on how to place gear.
what!!!! 10 times! im gonna be broke
The fall/jump off in the first video wasn't that big. Sure it puts some stress on your rope but I doubt it was anywhere near a UIAA rated fall. Was it kinda stupid? Yah. Will it screw up your rope? Nah.
Hidde _ Good point I think it would have been worse if the belayer was belaying right off some anchor. This was at least dynamic. How ever it also added the weight of the belayer into the system. But I think the belayers weight being added dynamically is better then a shock load of the falling climber onto an anchor.
I know I’m late to the party but I only just started watching your videos :)
What you said about 80kg / 10 falls is a different situation than the video. Ropes are tested with about factor 1.7-1.8 falls and 80kg. The rope has to hold 5-7 such falls. In the video he did hit the ground but was slowed down. So it’s close to but slighty less than factor 1. That won’t do much to your rope unless it runs over sharp edges. Sure, in general the fewer falls the better for lifespan of the rope. And it was definitely a dumb fail, especially since the climber looks to be quite a bit heavier than the belayer. But saying you should only fall 10 times on your rope isn’t correct. It’s not like it’s going to break after 10 totally normal factor 0.5 falls.
+looks like the belayer let go of the break rope and both hands went to the rope above his grigri? Hard to see if he did that while catching the fall or only when the grigri was already locked, but still...
A can of worms
its awesome how quickly you earn my likes xd
In the first fall presented apparently the rope is being loaded over a, for this situation relatively, sharp edge. Obviously not a razor blade, yet a small enough radius, as it seems on the video, to possibly harm the rope. In favor of the climbers the rope runs over the edge for a good distance (probably thanks to the belayers "smoothing out the catch" skills) , which distributes the catching load over several metres.
In the most simple fall scenario there acts only one force, simply in line with the rope. Over an edge another force is added, through the object the rope has to bend around offset from the imaginable straight line from anchor to tie in point.
Saving advantage for the falling person is the lacking sideways movement of the rope on the ledge.
Yet the coating still suffers on this one.
I would say the spotter was too close on the last one, but really he was okay until she swung out.
8:00 belayer should stayed on the left, so the force won't be pulling the piece out
"Do it"
BTW, the climber who grounded at the 7:00 mark had two pieces fail.
I saw the bolt breaking fall on an Instagram page that I follow. Hope that climber is okay.
Yeah I dm’d him to get the video from him. He is okay think he just had a head ack must be a hard man.
i think that rock is called shingle
The guy who hit the deck from the broken bolt skipped the first clip.
Why does everyone say "You're good", right before you hit the deck???
At 7:18 - trad fall. Ouch.
- Belayer out of position
- Cam is not placed vertically - the belayer being out of position makes this moot
The belayer was out of position - off to the right of the protection; maybe the team had a good reason for belaying from there. The resulting sideways force on the protection closest to the ground could have been prevented if the belayer was stationed directly underneath it. Even bomber pro can be dislodged if rope direction is not managed correctly.
Most likely the climber still would have decked in that case, but would have been less spicy.
Rope direction and belayer position have an amplified impact on natural protection compared with fixed pro.
I prefer extra slack in the line while on lead so that I am more likely to fall directly down on the protection that I've placed, and also so that force is applied to the system more gradually (even if the maximum force is greater). Thoughts?
I agree, and the peak force shouldn't be increased too much especially if the belayer is awake and does their job dynamically.
@nd last guys belayer was in a bad spot, putting side ways forces on the piece.
I think most ropes can handle around 300 falls (factor 1)
who wrote the intro? you off the chain
About the trad fall: Shouldn't you have some slack out especially if using passive pro to prevent the gear from being loaded on the way down? I get it that he's over the piece in this case and not so high from the ground, but generally it's better to fall past the piece before it gets loaded. This will also give the belayer some more time to react (for example jump for a dynamic catch). Totally agree on putting more pieces before crux section especially if the placements are suboptimal.
Glad I found this channel! :)
M0dElite Thanks. 🤙🏻 It’s all depends on the situation. How close are you to the ground what’s the placement like ect. That is why good communication between the belayer and climber is very important.
Damn boy look at that PC
Jamming
looks like basalt
nice hard tubing there sir
Steven Miller lol yeah that was not easy 😂
That's what she said
@@eyescreamcake perfect
Trying to break the fall when you're spotting is a good way to get hurt. Stand back and just make sure the climber falls onto the mat and doesn't fall over into anything
Agreed. Guy got clam-stamped pretty good.
It is not true that you can only fall 10 times in a rope. What you refer to are the standardized test falls for rope certification. These excert much higher forces than any real falls.
Huuuuge like for that intro
dope ass computer
Sweet computer
Nice Intro.l LOL
I just heard this man have a stroke
the spotter on the boulder shouldn't have been directly under the climber, he still had a great spot tho, just coulda been better
That first guys put way to much trust in his equipment, super sketchy
10 times factor 1.77 before you need yo retire your rope right??
I was checking for comments about the sexy catch at the end, but found none! I expected less of you, UA-cam fans.
"I want to be your crashpad baby!"
So, I don't climb and I thought a gris gris was a wine spritzer, but what I have to say about Micah is: I thought he was straight committing suicide. Like ^^^that^^^, is a thing? wwwaaaaattt????
well belaying off ur self is a dianamic belay and belaying of an anchor is a static belay I think belaying of urself
Who the hell gives these thumbs down?!
ha
In all of your videos people are not using runners in the proper way at all. Especially directional anchors and directional protection and if you're going over anything where there's an angle change to the extreme everything well it should be on runners or you'll zipper. I have about 50 years climbing experience traditional. Taking an extra three or four foot fall for the sake of having a long run on your protection is great insurance
Huh
No shot you didn’t get copyright for that intro
Sorry, but you are performing analysis on climbing fails but totally missing some of the causes of the fails!
Take the 'hitting the deck' example.
1. The belayer is too far out and putting an outward load on the first piece of gear that is probably not set for that direction.
2. You say the belayer should have taken in slack. That could have even made it a lot worse. A dynamic belay technique is needed to minimise the shock load on pro. Yes you have to take into account the distance to the ground but it can be better to have a soft ground impact rather than have the pro pop.
The fact you did not mention either of these makes me worry about your own techniques.
First one: dont do stupid stuff. Also, maybe learn a bit of simple math and simple physics. Surely there is even a table somewhere that will tell you if an x pound climber falls x feet and your belayer weighs x, he will get pulled off the ground x distance. Measure the wall, weigh the climbers, and do a bit of math. I always have to anchor myself because I am very small and everyone will pull me off the ground, even without falling.
I’d love to watch the videos of the rock climbers but you decided to fill 4/(5th of the screen with your face... we don’t care to see you dude. We want to be able to see the videos.. 🤦🏼♀️
Brandon Erickson hahaha good point but I thought it funny 🤣
Took my a whole week to understand what you meant because I’m editing a new episode of climbing fails lol . The reason there is so much of my face is because a lot of the videos or vertical cell phone Vid’s so instead of just having black space I put my reaction. 🤷🏻♂️
4/5? You are officially bad at fractions and estimating.
To much talking
Balt? Speak English much?