How to Break-in Brand-New Engine + Oil Analysis
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- Опубліковано 1 кві 2019
- More on dsportmag.com/social/
Part 4 of 4 - Watch from the beginning here: bit.ly/2CIBXQh
In this segment Lake Speed, Jr. (Certified Lubrication Specialist & Oil Monitoring Analyst) and Mike Ferrara (DSPORT Publisher) talk about Engine break-in procedures, break in oil, used oil analysis, and more in relation to LSPI and other concerns.
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![Engine Break-In Myths Dispelled | Engine Break-In Tips And Tricks [GOLD WEBINAR]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5Ruk6GLJgbA/mqdefault.jpg)
If my Wife was as passionate about cooking as this man is about engine break- ins I recon I could finally enjoy a good meal....
DUDE LAKE IS THE MAN!!! LOVE that guy's intensity and enthusiasm
Lots of information. Hard to find this stuff sometimes and especially with simple explainations and high attention to detail, ty.
Thank you, Alex. 🙏
@@dsport EXCELLENT & VERY INTERESTING presentation!!!!
THANKS,
Ben
@@dsport Notice a 2ZZ-GE in the background, read your article on the built 2ZZ-GE turbo, any updates on how it's working now?
You're a great listener. I hate when people interrupt a guest. Thanks
That what my dad has always said, if you baby it from the start, its going to be a baby. Im of the mindset of run it like you are going to run it, definitely get those RPMs up!!
Yep. First 100 miles of my brand new 2023 Honda Civic I did many freeway driving. I went 85-90mph for about 20 minutes on I-10 west bound to Santa Monica, CA. It was Sunday early morning. No traffic . 😊
Race engines are built differently than engines in our street vehicles. 7;000 rpm to break in an engine is not applicable to street engines geez. The best break in for a street engine.......drive it for a few days 300-400 miles in traffic. Yep the stop and go acceleration will push the rings against the cylinder walls and seat them. Don’t accelerate lightly but don’t floor it away from every light. Half to 3/4 throttle several times during the drive will build cylinder pressure against the rings and seat them. Worst thing to do? Miles and miles of 70 mph interstate driving. Lots of oil splashing up on the cylinder walls but no cylinder pressure on the rings. Result?Cylinder wall glazing and no ring seating.
Do you still run for 20 mins or so for first run and dump that oil and switch, or hit the street with the first oil? So much mixed info out there... Thx.
He didn't recommend 7,000 RPM. He recommended 2,500 RPM.
Thank you
Great video. I have seen countless opinions on how to do break in, and most are based on personal experience, but very few are backed up by data. Sure, engine builders can say they have built hundreds of engines broken in their way and most of them didn't blow up, but like Lake Speed Jr. said, that doesn't automatically mean they were broken in correctly. Thanks for the info!
Compression and oil consumption and color of plugs let us know.
first time driving stick in my newly built car, I was worried I should have one of my friends break the car in for me, but now I can stall, revbomb and clutch drop it to my hearts galore
finally a real mechanic talking
Great video!! Thank you for the information.
Thank you Sam. Be sure to check out the other videos from that playlist. They all talk about Low Speed Pre-Ignition. Thanks again.
I would go with what the manual says to do.
If something fails a UA-cam content creator won't front the bill
And who will?
manufacturer
Excellent video guys. Some solid advice given. Even an old'salt like myself can appreciate this guidance. I have a major project build on the near horizon (flathead V8) I'll follow these guidelines when the time comes. I'm also looking forward to including a set of Total Seal rings during assembly. About as good as it gets!
This guy knows his stuff.
I support this 100% 💪🏾
Thank you
This guy eats Coffee beans for breakfast...
The guy on the left looks like he eats cocaine for breakfast! Lol
Not just for breakfast!
🤣🤣🤣
You pegged it. I was tired after the video ended.
Which guy?
Such a great video. Glad you guys did this. Wish he would of hit on viscosity a little more. He did say “Tailor your viscosity to your Bering clearance” but 2-3 minutes on viscosity would of been good to put all the rumors and nonsense to rest.
Thank you for the feedback, we'll try to make a video addressing this if Lake comes back
Hey @Invitingsauce. We had Lake back down here and he talked about Viscosity a little. Thank you for your question.
ua-cam.com/video/TkqWtfyRA74/v-deo.html
@@dsport thank you!!
At 7:30 yes, always change it hot.
This man blinked twice in 12 minutes😂 put the cocaine down sir😂
It’s speed… Lake Speed
awesome video
Hello,
I have a 2005 Renault Laguna 2 1.9 Dci (F9Q 750) (120 HP) that have been rebuilt on Feb 11. Everything has been renewed with new ones except crankshaft, camshaft and piston rods. The reason of rebuilding it was burning oil (350ml / 1000km and blue smoke especially on cold) and high blowby at idle on oil cap. The cylinders has been bored by 0.5mm and new oversized pistons inserted. The car runs fine without any leaks, without any smoke at operating temperature and it's powerful now. Still has a little bit of blowby smoke on pcv valve at idle at operating temperature but i hope it'll be gone when break-in procedure is finished.
My concern is, the service put a factory suggested Elf Evol 900 SXR 5W40 "Fully Synthetic" oil as initial oil and then they tested the car without my approval. They even said they redlined it on highway and went to 170 kmh which is contrary to break-in period and initial break-in hours. I researched about the break-in oil and break-in procedures and learned a few things but it was too late to tell them to service. They already done this stage. They didn't know about break-in oil anyway and said "use the oil which is recommended by factory as we did it like this". When i asked them about break-in procedure, they said drive it like you want it, it won't matter...
Since rebuilt, i've driven the car for 260 kilometers in 6 days and following the break-in procedures. Not lugging it, not overreving it, not passing 3000 rpm and avoiding full throttle sudden accelerations. I've been avoiding idling it for extended time. I've been using the RPM band widely as much as i can to help seating the rings to walls. In 3rd gear, accelerating smoothly from 2000 to 2800ish rpms then letting the foot off the gas and it drops slowly to 2000 again and repeating it on different gears when driving. Not driving it like a cruise control on same RPM.
My question is, should it break in like this with fully synthetic oil which is on the car for 260 kilometers? Should i stay with the synthetic oil inside until i reach 800kms and change it or should i change the oil and oil filter to mineral oil like Castrol GTX Essential 15W40 etc. immediately? I fear to glaze the cylinder walls or rings and can't successfully do the break-in procedure with the synthetic oil inside. I fear to damage the healthy turbo or other components with mineral oil too but the turbo repair is much more cheaper than an engine job which i paid significant amount of money. Is it too late for switching to mineral oil? Are my cylinders have been already glazed and rings wont seat as i fear this to happen? How should i test that?
What do you recommend in a situation like this? I was planning to do the first oil change when i reach 800kms after rebuild, then the second at 1300km and the 3rd at 4000km. I just want the engine to have a healthy break-in procedure and have a long life and decent performance. The money spent on oils and oil changes is not that much important. I want to drive this car healthy for 3-4 years, equals to 30.000 or 40.000 kilometers with my recent driving hours. I bought the car at August 2020 and have been fixing the problems caused by previous owner, sadly. I’m waiting for your advice, thank you for reading this and thanks for helping.
Great video!
Thank you Jason.
I heard you want to overfill it with single viscosity. Double up on the volume and floor it often.
Interesting info.
Thanks👍
Thank YOU
The guy on the left is a fantastic communicator
Great content this one.
Thank you.
@@dsport Credit where it's due.
Thanks for that video. It just confirmed my opinion. Ride it as you stole it! Dont worry about ceasing the engine. If your engine is build on specs.
I have a new car. About to change the oil right around 400 miles. Should I use break in oil? Or should I just go with manufacturers spec? I’m hearing so many different things.
Can you do a video on break in transmission fluid? Especially with modern CVT transmissions?
Here's a good question. If I am running a boosted engine ( 2.0t, K03 turbo, max 10psi boost), then do I really need to drive the car to break it in if I am technically creating cylinder pressure with the turbo? For example, upon first start, if I run the engine at around 4,000 rpm then I am probably pushing 5-7 psi of boost. Is this enough "load" and cylinder pressure to bed the rings in? In a naturally aspirated engine you need to put load on the engine to create more cylinder pressure. You would do this by driving the car. With a boosted engine, however, you can create cylinder pressure with boost. I am just curious if I can bed the rings in by just sitting at 5-7 psi of boost in neutral without driving the car.
Does this apply to a regular econobox car too? Or just performance motors
So id do the same process with my dirtbike as long as i keep it on the stand while this oils in there ? Or just add some to my Lucas 4stroke wet clutch oil ?😅
I have a question, does this pertain to a 6.0 diesel as well ? Just rebuilt the engine , I drive the truck hard . Should I break it in hard as I normally drive it or break it in at an easier level ? Not granny driving per say but easier than I always drive it .
Ok so I was watching you said to rev engine to 2500 then drain oil. Then go 500 miles. Then you said to change the oil right after the dyno.
Which is it drive 500 miles after 1st change or dyno change drive 500 and change it a 3rd time?
Almost all of the performance shops and engine builders I've researched have said to do a change within 20-100 miles after first start (rebuilt engine). Keep moderate load (50-75% throttle at most) varying between 3-4k RPMs mostly, not to exceed that, no cruising/highway consistent runs or very short runs. Not to go WOT/full on until the 500-1000 mile break-in process.
Wouldnt this be a bit different for race engines that are designed to fail very quickly and constantly be replaced? A v8 race motor that goes a few hundred or a thousand miles is a lot different than a 2.0l Ecoboost turbocharged engine that needs to last many thousands of miles as well as daily driving for years to come.
I'm up there with the start up, get up to temps, check for leaks, make sure you have sufficient oil pressure and coolant temps, and give it anywhere from 50-100 miles and change the break-in oil out.. but doing it again for another couple hundred miles without going WOT and much boost is the general consensus. Why is this subject so subjective? Even manufacturers that sell cars like the new C8's, NSXs, GTRs, etc all say to not rag on the car and do a moderate break-in period for up to 1000 miles before tracking them or drag racing, etc.
Not everyone has $8k+ to rebuild an engine every few months because they have hundreds of new engine parts on hand and can rebuild a new one in a day lol
Good information
Is the GM 3.6L considered HP?
Or, Lake talked about the Mrs., and stated to just stick with the basic oil change at 500 miles?
What do You think about AMSOIL?
I bought a new 2019 nissan 370Z sport coupe and did oil and filter changes at 500, 1500 and 3,000 miles and then went to normal 3K mile OCIs after that. I broke the engine in gently and so it took longer to break in fully, about 5K miles. At that point my oil consumption decreased to about 1 oz per 1K miles, where it is to this day at 17K miles. I've only used the recommended 5W-30 Nissan ester oil because of its high molybdenum content. My engine is very hard on the oil, with its VVEL mechanism on the intake side of the valvetrain, and I've found that this engine, VQ37VHR, on used oil analysis reports tends to shear down 5W-30 Nissan ester oil to a 20 weight after about 3K miles. This is why I don't push the OCI out any farther. If I ran an oil with a better base stock that could withstand the higher temperatures and pressures generated by the VVEL mechanism I could probably go another 2K miles or so on the OCI.
I recommended Redline oil, much better than the nissan OIL
I would use amsoil and amsoil filter. Amsoil can take the heat.
@DSPORT, so im about to install a remanufactured 5.3L ls engine into my truck. Bone stock build but I want it to last. The rebuilder provided Lucas break in oil with the engine. Obviously have no access to a dyno, So in the driveway would this be sufficient and safe...
1) upon First startup immediately run up to 2500 rpm in park and keep it there for 20 min straight.
2) stop and change oil/filter, refill with break-in again.
3) then immediately take it out and drive it hard for 10 or 20 miles or so and then continue driving hard for next 500 miles.
4) after 500 miles, change oil over to high quality synthetic.
Or is it NOT a good idea to run in park at 2500 rpms upon first start up because in the driveway there's no real way to add sufficient load during that time period?
Thx in advance
Since there are countless ways to break in an engine it dosen't seem to matter how an engine gets broken in. I was taught to just drive the car they way you normally drive and the engine will set itself to the way you drive.
What is the break in temperature, as he mentioned, Performance engine they built being push to the rev limit on 2nd fill up
But they break in with driveline or just bare engine, and what temperature they keep ? We know that zinc additives need hight temperature to activate, but oil overheat or start to boil at 130°C
So hat temperature do we keep to get a proper break in
Very informative. Iv asked a lot of professionals in the engine department they all said after a few hundred KM the process is complete, if there was an issue you’d know within the first 100km. After that like you said dump the oil then your good to go.
My Q is, why do manufacturers like AMG, BMW M, say oh you need to do it for 2000km ?
I have heard majority if not all performance engines are run pretty much full bore while there testing engines for a few minutes etc for failures before they marry it to the car..?
I believe run it hard for race engines, as they most likely have more lose tolerances so they can run hot with no problems.
For street driven engines follow manuals directions, vary speeds all the time. Do not stay at a constant speed, also change the oil sooner as he says 400 to 500 miles. I would refill with break in or conventional motor oil and change it again after another 500 miles, keep changing till I reach 2000 miles. That's what I would do for my car, sound reasonable?
I know Acura NSX fully breaks in their engines at factory. My guess is he is probably talking about Corvette engines run on wide open throttle.
I'm breaking in my IAG stage 2 engine. Its NA right now but I have a rev limiter set to 4000 from the tuner and that has been his standard procedure... What do I ?
This is great ...I am about to break in a 347 stroker brand new ..My builder has me using 10-40 conventional for diesel engines. Break in, start and run for xx time. Change oil and filter (same type oil) and run 100 miles. But I am finding much more and better detail from you. Now I understand the 2500rpm for flat tappet but I have a roller cam - he recommended 1000 rpm for 20 minutes (no idle) but do you recommend the 2500 for roller also ? THANK YOU FOR THE GREAT VIDEO
Well he said the zddp needs some heat and pressure to get activated and stick to the metal surfaces, besides 2500 is not that high, I think it's important to fluctuate the rpm a little say from 2000 to 3500, just like after the first oil change when driving avoid constant rpm and I would gradually do WOT only from higher rpm, lugging the engine is bad.
Which company do you recommend for oil analysis?
Knew i had heard hard break-in was best so within the first 19 miles on my new Z900 i had already seen 122mph. all while the rpms were flashing to shift at 4250 for the first 600 L O L
I have a new 2023 Honda Pilot and at 650 miles I went to the dealer for my first oil change. The service manager told me to wait until the message appeared on the dash to change it. Do you think 5,000 miles is to long to wait?
Depends what parts you used. If it's a high mileage built engine, a race engine put together for a season of racing or an engine built for one or two runs.
And especially, what rings you used.
I've built more than 500 engines.
Some of the best engines were the stubborn ones.
Been looking for information like this for a while now.
Next question is, can you analyze transmission oil in the same way and who does that type of stuff??
YES Claudius Louis...transmission oil can be analyzed in the same way as engine oil.
Just make sure you send your sample to a lab that specializes in "automotive engine oils".
You can find these online. I'd call a few beforehand & ask your questions.
They'll send you a kit to return with your fluid//oil.
Keep in mind that the design of automatic & manual transmissions create particulates.
Transmissions are not built to the tight clearance tolerances as are engines.
Therefore, more "debris" will be found in transmission fluid//oil than in a "healthy" engine.
The experts should be able to determine if there is "excessive" wear occurring.
Regards,
Ben
P.S. SORRY this is 2 years late. :-)
These guys are high as a kite from all the chemicals in that garage
Morello and Flea discussing engine break in.
So when is the engine broken in? There was no link or any explanation..
Well Break in oil hurt my motor if I’m only changing the lash adjusters rocker arm and overhead Camshaft.
4:18 what about the thought that it depends on what the car is going to be used for such as a regular family sedan vs a performance car?
Generic discussion wasn't it ?
Hoping for some clarification... just bought a 2020 WRX with a direct injected 2.0 turbo - the manual and Subaru mechanics say don’t go over 4000rpm and do not use boost or full throttle for at least 1600 km’s (1000 miles). Why would they say that if it’s harmful to the motor when they need to pay out on engine warranty repairs for 5 years!?
i just bought my mustang ecoboost and have not listened to anything the manual has said about break in at all. I have had one in the past and had no oil leaks. Think its due to how i just go drive my car. With the manual though during break in you will want to vary your RPM so no cruise control for you for awhile
And, the most important question of all... isn't it unnecessary wear to the rings, to keep using the mineral based oil in, for the other parts to seat properly? What would be the best time to switch to synthetic oil? Right after the rings are seated, or longer after?
After 10,000 km
Hey I just got a new 2019 Camry. It says on the manual that the break in process is for 650 miles. I’ve put about 1400 miles already, should I change the oil for the car now or wait until 5k?
Change it when you can
A lower viscosity oil removes/moves heat more efficiently but doesn’t “cushion” as well as a higher viscosity. But it’s all dependent on bearing clearance, correct? Tighter clearances need a “thinner” oil to flow faster/more efficiently and bigger clearances need more “cushion” to take up the space properly? Do I have that half way correct? Does a 5w-50 offer more/better “protection” than a comparable 5w-30 once up to temperature ?
A 5w-50 with have a higher viscosity at 100 degrees c then a 5w-30. They will both have the same at 0 degrees c (both 5 weight cold). That's a more accurate way to look at the numbers. But that's new. as they additives breakdown with heat cycles, the 50 will slowly get closer to the 30 (because the 30 has less thinning to do to get to the 5w). A multi weight mineral oil will do this faster than a synthetic. My recommendation as a simple back yarder is to select the right oil weight for your clearances, use you pressure gauges to see what the real time pressures are at temperature, and change it more often to maintain it. Always use a synthetic, outside of break in. Simply put with the same amount of use the 5w-50 will be the same viscosity at low temp to but thicker at 100c. If you're clearances are bigger you'll want the thicker oil. At some point though, if you have modern heads with hydraulically controlled stuff, it may be too thick for the top end, this is why OEM oils are getting thinner and thinner, as well as better manufacturing for better matched clearances. Now the fun begins when you get some blow by in a turbo engine runing ethenol, where the fuel physically mixes with the oil an thins it even further... ahhh good times.
@@tangles01 That is pretty accurate
@@dsport Thanks for saying so.
Hey@@tangles01
We had Lake back down here and he talked about Viscosity a little. Thank you for your comment.
ua-cam.com/video/TkqWtfyRA74/v-deo.html
If the rings don’t seat and it’s consuming oil after several 1000’s of miles, can you refill with breakin oil to help seat them? Would this work for both low tension rings and non low tension rings? Cylinders were plateau finished for quicker breakin per builder.
From what i've heard, you only get one chance to break them in.
no, first 50 miles has matter
Well how do I break in a new Toyota engine that has synthetic oil in it ?
Ok I have a question . I rebuilt a Pontiac 389 engine and I’m certainly no mechanic . I never knew about engine break in as I thought you just fire it up , tune it etc then drive . Now I am worried because I have run it a fair bit , haven’t actually driven the vehicle yet and just used a standard 20w50 oil . Then I started learning about high zinc oils etc . My question is because I have no road miles on this engine is it too late to put in a high zinc break in oil and carry on from this point ?
Put in amsoil high zinc
For that first 20 minutes do I leave it in park and rev it up or do I actually drive it around?
That's what I want to know as well.
These kinds of videos NEVER mention anything about the VERY first step. Priming the motor. I have no clue why something so VITAL gets left out.
pointless unless you built it and it sat for years.. its going to build oil pressure instantly when it starts.
If it was done right, you can run a motor with the engine assembly grease for a min before damage.
Thank you for the invaluable information. Now I'm concerned about my new 2019 Civic Type R. Followed the procedure I got from Honda. 200-gentle miles with gentle braking to allow brakes to wear in properly. Then progressively increased acceleration and RPM until 600 miles. At 600-miles, I was making three runs on an obscure road, full throttle to redline, to 135-140 mph before running out of room and beginning deceleration. I'm at 1000-miles now and planning a spec oil/filter change tomorrow. I was told that the car must run synthetic from the start due to the temperatures the oil is exposed to in the turbocharger, but don't know if that is true or not. Also, don't know if I can temporarily run break-in oil with a turbocharger, or if I need to. Car doesn't feel as peppy as I thought and getting crappy highway mileage (22-23 mpg).
How would you recommend that I proceed from this point? Is it just the spec oil change and then driving as hard as possible as often as possible, or do I need to purchase several filters, some spec oil and break-in oil and follow a process? I'll do whatever is best for the car, whatever offer the best chance to give the engine a proper break-in and to run optimally.
Thank you in advance for any assistance you can offer.
The full throttle from start is probably the culprit causing scoring on your bearings, if the ZDDP or whatever the break-in compound has not given enough time and temperature to activate on the moving surface. Full throttle is fine if done progressively but not from a complete stop. I would suggest refilling with factory oil and adding extreme pressure additives. They are mostly chlorinated compounds, which smooth out peaks and valleys with heat activation. You just need a low to medium speed and load to break in. When activated, they form a durable iron-chloride surface on moving surface, which happens when you start to feel a smoother idle. Then you should drain the oil because excessive chloride may react with moisture and form a strong acid. Too much Extreme pressure additive may cause bore polishing, an adverse affect you should keep in mind . Good luck!
You only have ONE chance to break in an engine and you blew it…but since it’s a civic, it doesn’t matter
Anybody in this situation, do what the factory says. It was three years ago. Tell us how it worked out. Maybe the not so peppy performance is how it goes with that engine.
Well, three years and a little over 40k miles and things already fine. The Civic Type R still runs like a scalded dog on crack. There's a long string of Z-cars, Camaro SS's, Scat Packs and more that have fallen in roll races down in Mexico. I'm no longer stock, about 90 whp and 100 lb ft over stock, same fuel economy, doesn't leak or burn any oil, catch can has drops after several thousand miles. It's good.
Make several trips each year from S. LA to the NC/TN border area to drive the Dragon, Cherohala...it's an excellent road trip vehicle. Rigid Collar set, Swift Spec R springs, Rotodisc floating rotors, Street Racer pads with titanium backing plates. It's a minimalist build handling wise, but you'd be amazed at the vehicles this vehicle can best on a twisty road.
@@nYdGeo Thank you for getting back. Little of this is practical for me but I am working on the topic right now if only to know where I have been already. With contemporary production, the manufacturers say no elaborate break-in is required, perhaps just following certain driving protocols for the first several hundred miles (or kilometers).
I have been paying attention to the different theories about break in especially related to piston rings. Some people say, push the engine hard during break in. I have a theory, which is, as the piston rings flex up and down infinitesimally during acceleration and deceleration, the edges of the rings get polished and lapped, or rounded off a little if you want to call it that. If the engine is going to be driven hard during its service life, maybe it is better to push it hard and get the edges lapped a little more.
I think a lot of this applies only to older production and especially to rebuilt cast iron block engines. With contemporary production out of the factory, maybe some of these issues do not exist.
Another thing I have found out is that in a standard performance cast iron or cast irong lined engine, it make absolutely no difference whether you use cast iron, chrome or moly rings. That's according to Hastings, which makes the rings. I would say, cast iron would be preferred because cast iron rings would be more likely to break in properly.
By South LA, I gather you mean Louisiana. I live in the Central Valley of California. We neither think about or go to L.A. the city. Mostly, we want to keep our driver's licenses and we also want to wake up alive tomorrow morning. But the Rams are my favorite NFL team right now. Goes way back in time. I grew up in Chicago but the Rams were a popular team in the 1960s and they were a popular team when they were in St. Louis during the Kurt Warner era too. I'm one of the survivors who saw that game on television where the Rams beat the Packers in the L.A. Coliseum back in the 1960s. If you were from Chicago, any time someone beat the Packers back then, they were your friend forever.
Just one more question. Did you eventually conclude that you were getting normal gas mileage for that vehicle for the type of driving?
I got confused guys!, after rebuild the engine will put break in oil and drive the car normal load at 2500rpm, then change oil and filter and drive the car for 7 minutes high load full throttle till you reach 500 miles then drain it again, is that correct ?, please explain. Thank you
Is Toyota manufacturing use break in oil in the new car ?
I have a 1978 MGB that I just had rebuilt. The mechanic, who is very experienced with these engines, didn’t use break-in oil but Valvoline VR1 20-50 racing oil with zinc. Problem is, I’ve now driven the car 400 miles, and it’s still using about a quart of oil every 200 miles. The mechanic is trying to downplay the problem. I’m worried obviously that there’s a problem with the rebuild. The engine does seem strong. I was going to change the oil to 30W Brad Penn break-in oil and run it for another 400 miles or so to see if the rings seat. My question is, is it to late to hope that the rings will seat with the cylinders with the 30W break-in oil? What do you suggest that I do? How many miles should I expect it to take for the rings to sear and oil consumption to go down?
Bill Keisling go back to break in oil and drive it like you stole it for 80 miles. With plenty of overrun.
@@mareksumguy1887 Will try. You say drive it for 80 miles with 'plenty of overrun.' You mean with lots of high RPMs?
yardbird tv no... overrun is decel (engine braking). But really it sounds like it needs to be rehoned and re-ringed.
@@mareksumguy1887 Yes, I'm afraid it needs to be rehoned and re-ringed too. The oil use only seems to be getting worse. Took it out yesterday and drove it for 100 miles and it used most of a quart. Obviously there's a problem with the rebuild. The mechanic says he 'sees no problem with the engine.' It now has about 1,300 miles on the rebuild. The mechanic just retorqued the head and re-set the valves this month. He blames the oil consumption problem on the engine sitting in the car outside in his yard and not running for several years while we restored the rest of the car. I'm trying to think what's fair here, but obviously I can't run or sell a car that's getting 100-150 miles per quart of oil. I'm wondering: about how much would it cost these days for a mechanic to rehone and re-reing an engine? Obviously that's not a total rebuild, but the engine probably has to be pulled. I'm thinking I could ask the mechanic if he wants to split the difference, but I don't know a fair price for this. If I took it to another mechanic, what do you think is a fair charge to rehone and re-ring a 4-cylinder MG engine? Thanks again.
yardbird tv this is why it’s better to use newer engines in older cars.
It depends on what kind of honing you get done; hand hone or machine hone.
Ring around a few machine shops / engine builders to see what they charge. Your mechanic sounds like garbage; either incompetent or a liar or both.
Okay so within a week my truck will be ready, that very next day I will make a trip to pismo beach, but is it safe to drive it out there after putting in a new engine???? Its like a 4hr drive & can I drive it in to 4wd??? Or what can happen
hahaha same boat as me pal
darren70215 thank god for warranties though lol if shit his the fan
I would only take the trip if I could fluctuate the rpm without impeding traffic.
Thanks for the info. I find this very interesting. The concept of running an engine hard when it’s new to seat the piston rings and everything does make sense. My question is why do owners manuals suggest otherwise? For instance on a Corvette the tachometer shows the redline at about 3500 RPM for the first 500 miles to remind you not to go past that point. I just ordered a Ford Raptor with the EcoBoost so I’m researching what fuel to run, motor oils and how to properly break it in. Can you touch on the disconnect between your advice and general manufacturers advice? Thanks in advance!
OEM engines come to life feeding on natural gas in many cases and they are already "broken-in" with respect to piston-ring-cylinder-wall break-in. Hence, there is no need to break-in the engine with the proper method if it's already broken in. Now while the engine might have been properly broken-in, there may be a loose accessory, fitting or ????? It the driver isn't doing full-throttle blasts from stoplight to stoplight, they have a better chance of finding a rattle or issue before it becomes a major problem. It's also a good practice for someone to get a feel for the car at minimal power before they push it to the limit. Still, there isn't any drawback from following the run-it-hard protocol. Just make sure the engine is at normal operating temps. Wear is significantly reduced on engines as temperatures go up. As for the fuel and oil recommendations. Run the highest octane fuel that you can afford. If you have direct-injection only engines (which I think those are), consider a water-meth system to reduce intake valve deposit formation. Also, use an SN-plus oil or an oil specifically made to deal with LSPI. Check out our video on LSPI to learn more.
@@dsport Thanks for the detailed response. The new Ecoboost engines have direct and port injection. I'm still going to run a dirty side catch can. And it sounds like I need to run 93 oct.
2:27 20 minute break in at 2500rpm, at what kind of load? Minimum, full throttle or where in between?
David Bayliss this is based on only the load you need to bring it up to 2,500 RPM. Once that’s done then on setting the rings is with load.
Professional lubricator...so am I just a different outcome and done in record time
I just got a new subaru and they recommended stay under 3k rpm until 1k miles. So that isn't the proper way to break it in?
That seems very low RPM even for a soft break-in. You wouldn’t even be able to get up to highway speeds on a ramp with that RPM for most vehicles. Does it have CVT?
@@NiceGuysFinishLas100 no its an sti with the 6 speed
Turbocharged? Almost seems like the manufacturer has that requirement just for the turbo to not spool up its peak psi.
@@NiceGuysFinishLas100 yes it is the 2.5L turbo
Turbochargers don’t need any break-in. So it’s most likely the manufacturer doesn’t want high spool creating max psi from the turbo. You probably already know this so the question is why???
Yep, F1 does oil testing at the races!
If your oil weight is 0W 40 and you can only find 15W 30 break in oil...is this ok????? @hammersrt
Is it the same for motorcycles?
About the same as I do! On crotch rockets, I change the oil very often the first few thousand miles.
are your first 20 minutes driving, or idling at 2500 rpm?
Under load : driving
Will the engine smoke a little during the break in period? I have a little smoke coming out of the exhaust. Is that normal.
Spencer Williams yes. Every car is different it smoke is to be expected. Just drive it normally and don’t redline the car u til after you do the first oil change. Usually at 5k miles.
@@mr.anonymous3103 the line on the dash means nothing. shut up.
New truck first oil change 2,500, lab said heavy metal and change again at 5k, after break in expect 12k intervals but lab makes decision not my granddaddy
They are selling the stuff.
They would say that, wouldn't they?
A non friction modified oil or non synthetic oil is fine.
It is how you run the engine at break in that determines the outcomes, if this is done incorrectly , no oil will hide it.
We don't sell it.
DO NOT MAKE THE MISTAKE THAT REGULAR PRODUCTION CARS GET BREAK-IN OILS.
This fact should have been noted at the beginning of the video.
I did 900 miles on a Toyota V6... The oil shimmered with very fine particulates.
I phoned Mobil Lube Technical support. And they said use Mobil 1 full synthetic from the start and no brake in oil is needed for my Audi V10 engine.
That's odd. When I called them they said use Walmart Supertech and save yourself big $$$ over the life of your car.
@@dougn2350 Doug your trying to pull my chain. Not going to bite.
This video is not about new OEM vehicles it is about freshly rebuilt engines and especially performance engines. OEM engines are mostly broken in from the factory.
Yet most dealerships want tell you this and are threatening you with warranty loss if you want to take care of your car you paid for.
I didn’t know there was such thing as break in oils. Didn’t think they exist. I figure oil is oil no matter what.
But I wouldn’t go by what this guys saying. Break in period, just drive it normally. Why race it and drive it hard? You don’t do that at any time. On occasions, I’m sure there will be a time you’ll naturally go harder. All that freeway driving and constant stop and go in the city, your cars already working hard.
Normal cars, normal drivers, just drive normally. Lol.
Break in oil change, a thousand miles is perfect compared to 500 miles. In the end, it’s totally up to the driver.
That guy is Mater from Cars movie..
You don't get metal shavings out of an engine due to break in period by changing the oil. Sure you'll get some, but not the majority.
Thank you CAPTAIN OBVIOUS!! W
Then how do you get the “majority” out if not by changing the oil and filter.
@@reginaldsmall3766 You use a magnet to trap the particles. Even then you won't get them all but way more than without. Look up videos on using magnets for this. Install a good filter too! You see, you can drain the oil but while the heaviest particles fall to the ground they will stay in the engine all over the inner surfaces. A magnet will catch More not All. Best thing to do is run 10 gallons of oil and gas through the system and catch/filter all that comes through under high pressure.. Then do it again! NO ONE doles that. It's physics.. which most wrench jockeys don't understand. Also, they are Cheap.
@@DivergentDroid the c8 corvette engine is all aluminum. The heads,block and pistons. What good would a magnet do?
@@reginaldsmall3766 Point taken but thats not the norm.
Guy on the left 5ak like desiny duck🦆
you definitely get more oil out when you drain it cold cuz it has time to seep into the pan
That makes no sense whatsoever.
Michael Imperioli is jealous of this mans nose. Now that is a proper Shnazz!
Same as non detergent oils for $3 a quart? Baptism by fire! If you build it right, no problem.
I feel like these facts are outdated. I spoke to the guys at VW about break-in oil on my new GTI and was told such an oil does not exist, at least not in their engines. They ship it with the same oil they put in at the dealership.
That is good advice for the rings, but bad advice for the bearings. Racers flog the engine kuz they know their bearings are coming out before 25,000miles let alone 250k. Yes change the initial oil fill at 3-500 miles. No to beating the sh*t out of bearings which are still wearing in.
MMMMMMM 😤😤😤 MEFF!
Why drain the oil hot at its thickest viscosity. A 5w30 is at its thinnest cold, at 5 and thickest hot 30 it's made this way for startup, so seems you would drain cold.
You got it totally backwards.
I don't think so, I worked for Citgo oil for 7yrs. I know my oil.
@@scottpearce7466 You did not know your oil and you were wrong. Oil gets thinner when it gets hotter. You do not understand the oil number system. The first number, denoted by W, is one viscosity scale. The W stands for Winter and it is one rating system for viscosity. The number represents the viscosity at a standardized temperature. The second number, 30 for example, is a viscosity on the hot scale. A totally different scale and a different specific temperature. Please look it up if you haven't learned better by now.
@@802Garage 😂😮😢 bro. Your the one who is wrong. You gotta know what you are talking about. Google is right under your two fingers.
@@DB-qm4jx Bro... Google it... What do you even think I'm wrong about?
I have rebuild over hundred motors, never used any kind of brake in oil just regular oil 10W40 etc.etc... never never any high rpm just normal driving never any problem for the customers.. just dont get it with any brake in stuff??
It's just a new product for people to spend money for the oil companies, break in oil is the new thing everyone seems jump on. Break ins are done when manufacturing engines these days and delivered ready for regular oil.
Jose Antonio that’s absolute bullshit. Iv researched this topic extensively and break-in is absolutely crucial. It has to be done methodically. Including full throttle and redline.
Marek Sumguy If the engine is properly warmed up. Then I agree.
Definition of Insanity of course the coolant and oil has to be up to operating temp. I think that goes without saying.
Oil salesman: "not only do you need to buy my snake oil, but drain it after 20 minutes and fill it back up again so I can sell you twice the snake oil"
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 thanks for the laugh!
He’s taking about race engines. Not your Toyota
Talks about Nascar. Those engines don't need to run for hundreds of thousands of miles. Just follow the manual of your engine builder.
What a load of tosh about break in oil the only part of the engine having direct friction is the cam and cylinder walls. The rod bearings never touch if they did your engine would die
Basically first oil change after 20 min, second oil change after4 hrs, 3rd next day, 4th on Friday. Make sure you change oil at least 60 times in first 3 weeks What a joke !!
This guy is high as a kite.
What do you guys think about this break in method?
1. Fill engine with Royal Purple Break-In oil and Royal Purple oil filter. Let vehicle reach warm idle temp.
2. Do Three 1/2 Throttle pulls in 2nd gear from 30% to 60% of your engine's range and engine brake to slow down.
3. Do Three 3/4 Throttle pulls in 2nd gear from 30% - 80% of your engine's range and engine brake to slow down.
4. Do Three Full Throttle pulls in 2nd gear from 30% to 100% of your engine's range and engine brake to slow down.
5. Compression check warm. Drain the oil, change the Royal Purple oil filter and use Royal Purple Break-In Oil for 1500 miles.
6. At 1500 miles compression check warm, drain the oil, change the Royal Purple oil filter, fill with Synthetic Rotella T6 5w40 and continue to do so at regular 3K mile oil change intervals.
DO NOT let a new engine idle on first start!!
@@darren70215
👍👍
You don’t just let it sit there and idle. You start revving it in neutral until it gets warm... then you ride it easy in first gear until it get up to temp. Then you start giving it the beans in 2nd gear.
darren70215 of course you let it idle... but only for like 15 seconds.
Whenever I start my car in the morning, as soon as it turns on, the rpm is slightly higher than normal but it only last for like 12 to 15 seconds. That's when I wait until the rpm goes down to its normal level.
Once I hear the engine sound drop to a lower frequency sound and see the rpm needle drop down to the normal rpm number, then that's when I consider my car warmed up and ready to drive.
Not sure if that is the correct way, but I've always done that with all my new cars for years and never had a problem with them.
Gave me a headache.