Whenever someone asks me about performance additive products, I say "Don't use them. The oil certified for your car has everything it needs and nothing it shouldn't have." That gets the point across to everyone. I never thought about calling it automotive Russian roulette.
I got a new rebuild 5.7 engine from Jasper with a 100k mile warranty back in April 2023 for my 2005 Ram 1500, and I couldn't find break-in oil anywhere. In fact, I couldn't even find conventional motor oil in the viscosity my engine requires. So, I had to get a synthetic blend. I chose a cheaper brand so that it wouldn't be overly inundated with moly. I drove it easy the first 100 miles and then changed the oil and filter. Drove it al little more aggressively for 500 more miles, and then changed the oil and filter again using the same brand of synthetic blend oil. Then I changed it again 3k miles later and swapped to full synthetic of a better brand. So far so good. No oil consumption at all, and everything seems smooth and quiet other than the happy exhaust note from my Flowmaster Super 40. 8k miles in now, and I will be needing my 5th oil change soon. Thinking about swapping to Penzoil Ultra Platinum and a Purolator Boss filter from here on out.
On my second round of Driven break in before switching to the XP4 in my Total Seal equipped SBC> Thanks Guys for your many on-line classes! Might still want one on Total Seals official way to clean and prepare a cylinder wall for final assembly.
I never use a "break in oil", however when first start the engine I will change the oil after a couple of hours when their may be some micro-particles in the oil. Doesn't hurt to change the after a couple of hours.
Finally, someone who doesn't buy into this "breaking in" oil bs. My generator never mentioned the use of break in oil, instead, it mentions automotive engine oil 15w40 or sae 40
Back in the day when we had zinc in street oil, break in oil wasn't a thing. Then they took the zinc etc out without letting anyone know, and everyone spent 2 years replacing burned up cams. Ah yes the good old days.
We always use the cheap non detergent oil with GM Eos with no problems, If I'm not mistaking that's how GM did all of their production vehicles for decades In the old day
I don't believe they are speaking about those who buy a new car having to change their oil and put in break in oil, , but instead, those who rebuild engines. Maybe I'm wrong..... but I don't think so.
Great question, the best way to know is using a blow-by meter to measure the blow-by. Once it levels off, the engine is basically broken in. Alternatively, if you follow the procedures listed in videos links provided in the description box, you will ensure the engine is broken in.
@@michaelallen2501 A higher level of detergent slows down the break-in process. Because detergents compete against the ZDDP on the engine running surfaces, it inhibits ring seal. We've seen it multiple times on the dyno.
@@michaelallen2501 They can both be equally bad. We've seen poor ring seating with non-friction modified but high detergent oil, and we've seen poor ring seal with highly friction modified oils with lower levels of detergent. The worst case scenario is high detergent and high friction modifier content. This is why we only recommend the use of low detergent, non-friction modified oils.
Hey Bob, Greetings from down under. Love your videos. So refreshing to find somebody who presents the science to back up claims. I wonder if you could test or give us the 'good oil' on Castrol Magnatec. 'The oil with intelligent molecules that cling to an engine's moving parts to protect your engine from the moment you turn the key and even if you wait for 100 years, Magnatec will still protect your engine like yesterday. Sounds too good to be true. With Magnatec in my engine, it ought to never wear out. Castrol makes these wild claims, but presents no evidence of these intelligent molecules and it's strange that none of the other oil companies have tried to call Castrol out on this, or come up their own intelligent molecules. I'd be very intersted to hear anything you can say about this.
LOL, I guess the Molecules are using AI??? In all seriousness, what they are referring to is the polar nature of the ZDDP anti-wear additive. It is attracted to ferrous surfaces and bonds with that surface to create a protective film, so it is really great science. In fact, it is so great that literally every engine oil on the planet uses ZDDP.
I work at a dealership... when we do factory long blocks or short blocks, sometimes they come with oil in them already, I do not know what that is, it is rumored to be a break in type oil, but I've never seen any proof of that. I've been through all the manufacture trainings for years. Anyways... The ones that come with no oil, they get normal off the shelf OEM Dino oil. Never had one come back with a problem and it probably went 3-5k miles on its first oil. Point is, I see those those same cars for years coming in for normal maintenance and what not, so I would know if their was an issue... Not to mention it would come back to me for an oil consumption issue, since I did the engine. I think it's a myth, but if you buy a motor and the seller tells you to use a break in type oil, just buy the snake oil so they at least can't blame you for their failed build.
I used BR30 on the LS6 I built last year. Seems like it worked pretty well, however I can't say for sure because I was rear ended in that car and the car was totaled after less than 2000 miles of driving with that engine :(
Make a video about : "PREMIUM FUELS vs REGULAR FUEL WITH ADDITING ADDITIVES" - I am really interested should I waste my money on just tanking premium fuel or should I use regular cheaper fuel but adding an additive to the each re-fuel
I would love to see you guys test LAT Race Oils. Very expensive But I will say a lot of pro mod and no prep race cars have switched over to LAT Race oil. There transmission fluid is amazing, but maybe you should test it.
I just purchased a new Westinghouse 11,500 watt generator. I have not started it yet, nor have I added any oil or fuel to it. It’s still brand new in the box. I want to break it in the correct way. I’m still trying to determine what is ideal to use for my oil. In this video you mention… ZMax, Driven, and Motul. My generator recommends 10W30. Which of these 3 brands would be best to use for my small engine? I do plan to run the first 30 min, then change it, and then another hour, change it, and then maybe 2 more hours and change it. I will do this while on a load. I’m looking which of these 3 brands is best suited for a generator, and then after break-in is completed, what oil should I use? A full synthetic? Please help with the best oil selections for my generator Thank you
Awesome video guys. I think the question about what to use after 500 miles pertains more to what TYPE of oil, not brands etc.... continue using break in oil? Go back to a conventional? Does it solely rely on blow-by and if the rings have truly broken-in? Should they be broken in by 500 miles? (I think I know the answer to that one...) I think the real question is when can we safely reintroduce an oil with friction modifiers? Thanks again, keep 'em coming!
New Ford Super Duty 6.7 Diesel, New arrived off Transport with 61 miles already on OD, Ford factory track drives several SD's prior to transport. SD 6.7 come with Ford 10W-30 conventional oil, not synthetic. At 15 qts Non-Syn, it was recommended by Ford to go 5000-7000 miles. I changed early with same Non-Syn at 3200 miles, and will move to AmsOil on next Oil (3rd) Change. Also performed 2 Oil Reports during the 1st Oil milage (2300 & 3200). Was this not a good method to break-in the Diesel?
Don't go over 4k rpm and very your speed. In essence, accelerate semi-hard to 4k rpm on occasion, and never drive a steady speed for long distances. Do this for 1,500 miles and you should be fine. As far as oil goes, there isn't an auto manufacturer that uses a break-in oil. You should be using an oil with the best film strength period.
I have about 400cc left of royal purple 10-30 break-in oil after using it to break in a small engine. Any suggestions of or how I could use the rest of it? Or is it destined to sit on my garage shelf for the next 10+ years?
If a 90's high performance (re)build Toyota turbo engine was broken in on a 5w30 fully synthetic motor oil, is there a process to swap in a break-in oil to get proper seating of the rings which the synthetic oil may have prevented? What type of effect would a synthetic oil have on break-in process, and can it be undone, or is there permanent alteration/bonding/wear of the metal surfaces that cannot be "cleaned", and then properly broken in for ring seating? Great job as always! Thanks guys.
Great info, thanks guys! I am guilty of “chemical Russian-roulette”. Have been using TurboMaxx which basically stops steel on steel wear. It has plenty of moly, zinc, calcium, etc, etc. I used TotalSeal gapless second rings set. Will my blow-by likely be excessive? If so, could I re-hone the cylinders and use proper break-in oil?
I was instructed to change my break in oil after 500km and put in a non-synthetic for the next 5000km. Is there any benefit in doing an initial change at 250km w/ break in, then again another 250km w/ break-in and then change to Dino oil for the the 5000km change?
Most motorcycle manuals all say to coat valves and valves springs in moly grease. If I am rebuilding road bike engines would it be better to swap moly grease for different assembly lube? But again wouldn't that assembly lube also contaminate the break in oil? Great video lots of details love it
Hey Sirs I purchased new let’s say 2022 Ford with 6.2 engine. Would it have been a good idea to drop the original oil at 5 odometer mileage replace with one of your breakin oils change filter run for 3000 miles ??? And if not just change out original oil before 1000 miles and use good synthetic oil and new filter ??? Excellent tutorials
Is there any need to change your break in oil after say 20 miles of initial break in? Im wondering if the initial break in oil might contain any metal particles from the initial break in? So Im saying change the initial break in oil and replace it with more break in oil and then run it for the 400 500 miles thats recomended? Or just run the initial break in oil for the 400 miles then go to your standard running oil?
So,basically break it in,drain oil and inspect,and fill it back up with break in oil again and run it?is it safe to run engine on just the outer springs while you finish breaking it in?
Hey Lake! SO very much appreciate your informative videos, and I am officially diving into the rabbit hole! My question concerns using break-in oil in a motorcycle, which would have a wet-clutch system where the engine oil would also lubricate the transmission as well (JASO MA-2). Do you foresee any issues with using a break-in oil for this application?
It's difficult to argue science when the science tells you all break-in oils are substandard in film strength to virtually any off the shelf oil available. Test the film strength of any break-in oil of your choosing and you will see exactly what I mean.
Is the ZMax break in oil a better choice for initial break in on a full roller 383 sbc @ 530 hp than a mineral oil based 30 weight break in oil? I contacted ZMax without a reply
What’s the general consensus on running the driven break in oil after initial break in while dyno tuning? I plan on changing the oil and filter after the break in but there will some break in in the system (cooler and lines)
Looks like Break-In OIl uses a 45 - 50 Viscosity oil. What viscosity oil do auto manufactuers use in their cars comming off the line? Is it 8 - 16 - 20 weights?
Very surprised on Zmax, though they do admit the sponsorship, due to past lawsuits from FTC on Zmax putting out products that don't do what they claim.
What is the best oil chemistry I should be looking for to break in (just) the flat tappet hydraulic camshaft and lifters in an engine with rings already properly mated to their bores - both seeming to be in good shape, with good leak down numbers in a mid mileage (under 60k miles) 1960s Pontiac V8 engine?
If moly is bad in break in oil. I use moly graphite assembly lube on the bearings because i found the transparent products dripped out. I do before initial start up remove the spark plugs and the oil filter. Use a remote starter button to spin the engine just a few seconds till i get oil from the filter mount. Screw the filter on and crank 10 more seconds . Then get ready for first start. Eye on oil pressure. Am i wrong in using the moly graphite assembly lube. I really have not experienced any ring break in issues.
Stupid question: is there ever a benefit to cycle back to a break in oil? For example, after 25k km…run break in oil again for 500 km. My guess is “no”. But, the question fascinated me.
I'm very curious on something. What about the break in oil on something like a small engine for a lawn mower, snow blower, lawn edger, etc.? I know some people say just to use Briggs & Stratton Small Engine Conventional Oil and change accordingly. It also makes me curious if Amsoil's Synthetic Small Engine Oil would work since it has no friction modifiers? Or maybe there is something I am unaware of? I know this is a car care channel but I always drive old cars that I had nothing to do with the break in. But I am buying some brand new small engine equipment this year and plan to rebuild an old Briggs Quantum Engine. I would love to hear your opinion on the subject even though it may not concern cars. Please and thank you.
Small engines like predator 212's, duromax engines, etc, can be broken in with regular oil, It won't significantly impact performance at all and is even recommended by official manuals. If you're worried about anything using proper break in oil won't hurt and is only a few dollars more expensive. Have fun! :)
So, you seem to be really good about responding to questions, so here's one. Ive been reading a blog by "Rat 540". As I understand his testing, its the oils ability to hold its film strength that primarily determines its protection? . IE, how much pressure does it take to penetrate the film and allow wear. Why is he wrong????
I though the manufacturer prefill breaking oil with brand new vehicle and often require change oil for the first 1000km back in the dealership. Isn't that the normal case?
Not any more. Most factory fill oils are called out to go 10,000 miles on the first oil change. ua-cam.com/video/_6nWCQ_70J0/v-deo.htmlsi=2ZSkTG_acX5A3v6B
My car requires 0W-20, preferably synthetic. Are you suggesting I should purchase a different weight oil for break in?????…if so, synthetic or non-synthetic???
This may be a long shot but I've been trying to get a recomendation for an oil to use while breaking in new piston rings on a 25 hp kohler. I have ordered lucas sae 30 break in oil but I'm not sure if I am going to use it
@@TotalSeal I'm talking about new car off dealers lot and factory fill dump at 500miles , at that point engine is mainly broken in but what oil would be best for final oil breakin period ....
Is it a good ir bad idea to run break in oil if a car gas been broken in ? I have 40k, bought my 6.4 with zero miles abd broke in with the stock filled pennzoil 0w40 ultra platinum, and added a bottle of Redline break in additive. I removed tge oil at 500 miles, dud tge same orocess again for aporix 1000 miles, tgen continued to run the pennzoil 0w40 for 36k. I change my oil every 3000 miles. I just switched to Amsoil signature 0w40, and continue to cgange every 4000 mikes now...
How are you doing a quick question I’m to the part where the breaking on you so I have a 7 quart oil pan that will mean I need 7 quarts of either Zmax driven or Moto anyone of them correct? Each one is a quart can you get back to me? Thank you.
Ok I'm trying to break in a Saab 4 cylinder iron block steal ring with hydraulic lifters. It's a forged piston deal. What would you suggest for a break in oil
Looking at the virgin oil analysis from a brand new car, I have it has a little bit of friction modifier and the detergents, and appears to be the same off shelf Pennzoil based on other oil analysis. Why would the OEM have friction modifiers and detergents if it was detrimental? Definitely down the road when I do a full build on my Toyota 7M turbo I’m going to be using the driven braking additive and using total seal rings for that and follow the procedures on the video.
@@TotalSeal I guess what I’m referring to is the braking process in having some Molly and detergents in the virgin OEM factory filled oil, are they not worried that the rings will not seat properly by doing this? Or the OEM rings are not the same as high-performance total seal rings which serve a different purpose and proper breaking is more crucial with those ?
@@Good-luck-Jonathan Because of the fuel economy requirements, OEM gasoline engines feature ring face coating and cylinder bore surface finish that will allow them to seat with these thin, synthetic oils. They are very different from OEM Diesel engines. What we do with high performance engines and rings is closer to what the Diesel OEMs do.
@@TotalSeal oh, that’s interesting because mine is also a brand new eco-diesel. I wonder if some diesels are different than others? as I mentioned, it’s strange that this has detergents from the factory and the Molly on virgin New samples the community took when they first bought their truck? I’m hoping that in the case of this particular engine OEM must’ve been OK with using the non-breaking oil? As I said, I boosted it a little bit with ZDDP which I know in normal cases it’s not optimal but in this case since it came that way, I just wanted to add a little bit more.
You guys need to research Penn Grade motor oil. Not Pennzoil, Penn Grade coming from Western Pa. Very high in Zinc and Phosphorus. Great for break in and Racing.
We are familiar with that product. It is no longer coming from PA. Instead, it is made in Indiana now, and it has a high detergent level. That’s why it is not on our recommended list.
Which is such a shame the brad Penn racing oil was great struff that was my oil of choice for my medium performance 350 sbc.... the new product is definitely not the same quality. I switched over to valvoline vr1 because it's always on the local parts store shelves and seems to work well... I used comp cams break in-oil back in 2013 for the build. Ran it for 30 mins and changed the oil. Maybe 2000 miles on the car since and she screams.
@@TotalSeal only curious because it has a 10hr break in procedure. Suzuki recommends fc-w 10w30 and their oil claims to be 25% synthetic and rest mineral oil. No syn for a break in as I hear. Just want to do it right being my first brand new outboard.
I do have a degree in chemistry and what you don’t know can put a big hurt on you. I’ve never used additives for that reason. You are rolling some pretty nasty dice.
I use straight 30wt (mineral based) non-detergent oil from a good oil company. After cam break-in, leak check, adjustments, I drain that and go to a conventional (again mineral based) multi grade oil - weight dependent on the customer's ultimate use for the engine. I recommend first actual oil change at 500mi, and then on to regular oil change intervals using regular or synthetic based oil(s)
Looks like a couple of Italian's, talking with their hands. That aside, using a good quality mineral oil for the first 1000 km or 600 miles is probably a wise decision in most applications, as can be seen thats what's on the Motul label.
Can you test the lofty claims of tvt green? There is absolutly nothing on it other than trust me bro testimonials and 2 friction tests. i think it works, but they claim after the proper introduction into the engine, that it can run for a long time without oil and with minimal wear to the engine. Also that it doesnt hurt ring seal. Eigther it contains the god partical or its just great marketing.
@@TotalSeal thanks much apriciated, I will try to get my hands on Motul then, and not use Molí paste on my cam, I guess the same break in oil will do it's job as well with the cam.
@@TotalSeal Australia's best engine builder how done my engine uses it. Break in oil is not needed on roller engines, it only has to have high Zinc in it like Valvoline 15-40 super diesel
I would agree. This should be a 5 minute video. I feel more stupid after watching it. It is like watching a #FordBossMe video. A lot of blah blah blah with maybe 3 seconds of something useful.
If the base oil was mineral oil, that is not a problem. In fact, it is better than synthetic for initial break-in. The real key is the additive package blended into the base oil. That’s where the big difference comes in.
I understand what you guys are saying but I just wished you didn't sound like those fake tv evangelists or the goofy infomercials that are on at 4:00 in the morning. I almost stopped watching just because of that.
Does it ever occur to you guys that possibly it is high time that a class and ingredients by proportion is defined so that people don`t have to lose their minds about what it is that constitutes breaking oil .? Friction is good for seating rings but not for con rod and crank bearings ..what kind of voodoo chemistry are you too talking about without revealing the correct proportions ? Yeah ok , we don`t recommend brands, but recommend the chemistry ...fine...what is that chemistry ? Oh the brands that you are mentioning but not recommending are all three equal ? Oh masters of the twilight zone !!
Whenever someone asks me about performance additive products, I say "Don't use them. The oil certified for your car has everything it needs and nothing it shouldn't have." That gets the point across to everyone. I never thought about calling it automotive Russian roulette.
Keith is the reason I continue use Total Seal. Top guy 👍🏼
He is awesome!
I got a new rebuild 5.7 engine from Jasper with a 100k mile warranty back in April 2023 for my 2005 Ram 1500, and I couldn't find break-in oil anywhere. In fact, I couldn't even find conventional motor oil in the viscosity my engine requires.
So, I had to get a synthetic blend. I chose a cheaper brand so that it wouldn't be overly inundated with moly. I drove it easy the first 100 miles and then changed the oil and filter. Drove it al little more aggressively for 500 more miles, and then changed the oil and filter again using the same brand of synthetic blend oil. Then I changed it again 3k miles later and swapped to full synthetic of a better brand.
So far so good. No oil consumption at all, and everything seems smooth and quiet other than the happy exhaust note from my Flowmaster Super 40.
8k miles in now, and I will be needing my 5th oil change soon. Thinking about swapping to Penzoil Ultra Platinum and a Purolator Boss filter from here on out.
Oreily has some cheap conventional oil or supertech. They didn't hav3 any?
On my second round of Driven break in before switching to the XP4 in my Total Seal equipped SBC> Thanks Guys for your many on-line classes! Might still want one on Total Seals official way to clean and prepare a cylinder wall for final assembly.
Thanks for the suggestion!
Wat
@@SmileyDiaz what?*
I never use a "break in oil", however when first start the engine I will change the oil after a couple of hours when their may be some micro-particles in the oil. Doesn't hurt to change the after a couple of hours.
Finally, someone who doesn't buy into this "breaking in" oil bs. My generator never mentioned the use of break in oil, instead, it mentions automotive engine oil 15w40 or sae 40
My new Tacoma never had a break-in oil from the factory and no new vehicle does...Total waste of time and nothing but a myth.
Break in oil isn't hype. Watch the video. Lake is brilliant, with a degree in engine oil
Thank you so much. I really appreciate it and I just directly ordered it from the company. Thank you so much. Have a wonderful Christmas.👍
You are so welcome!
@@TotalSealI did the break in with Mineral Motul SAE 15w40 API SF/CD engine oil. It did a great job removing the metal shavings
Another informative topic/discussion. Cheers guys
Thanks!
Back in the day when we had zinc in street oil, break in oil wasn't a thing. Then they took the zinc etc out without letting anyone know, and everyone spent 2 years replacing burned up cams. Ah yes the good old days.
Yep, the ZDDP level change in motor oil changed everything else.
We always use the cheap non detergent oil with GM Eos with no problems, If I'm not mistaking that's how GM did all of their production vehicles for decades In the old day
,,, And , made Joe Gibbs another fortune ,,, !
THANKS guys...for another informative presentation.
Best regards from Yucatan Mexico,
Ben
Glad you enjoyed it!
I don't believe they are speaking about those who buy a new car having to change their oil and put in break in oil, , but instead, those who rebuild engines. Maybe I'm wrong..... but I don't think so.
How do you know when your engine is finished breaking in?
Great question, the best way to know is using a blow-by meter to measure the blow-by. Once it levels off, the engine is basically broken in. Alternatively, if you follow the procedures listed in videos links provided in the description box, you will ensure the engine is broken in.
@@TotalSeal thanks!
Once the starter motor stops turning...
Amsoil also has a friction-modifier-free break-in oil. I used it in my supercharged small block combination.
That is true. The downside to that oil is that it has a high Calcium detergent content.
@@TotalSeal what kind of effects does that detergent level have on the break-in procedure?
@@michaelallen2501 A higher level of detergent slows down the break-in process. Because detergents compete against the ZDDP on the engine running surfaces, it inhibits ring seal. We've seen it multiple times on the dyno.
@TotalSeal if you had to rank too much detergent vs friction modifiers being present, which one is more counterproductive to the break-in process?
@@michaelallen2501 They can both be equally bad. We've seen poor ring seating with non-friction modified but high detergent oil, and we've seen poor ring seal with highly friction modified oils with lower levels of detergent. The worst case scenario is high detergent and high friction modifier content. This is why we only recommend the use of low detergent, non-friction modified oils.
Hey Bob, Greetings from down under. Love your videos. So refreshing to find somebody who presents the science to back up claims. I wonder if you could test or give us the 'good oil' on Castrol Magnatec. 'The oil with intelligent molecules that cling to an engine's moving parts to protect your engine from the moment you turn the key and even if you wait for 100 years, Magnatec will still protect your engine like yesterday. Sounds too good to be true. With Magnatec in my engine, it ought to never wear out. Castrol makes these wild claims, but presents no evidence of these intelligent molecules and it's strange that none of the other oil companies have tried to call Castrol out on this, or come up their own intelligent molecules. I'd be very intersted to hear anything you can say about this.
LOL, I guess the Molecules are using AI??? In all seriousness, what they are referring to is the polar nature of the ZDDP anti-wear additive. It is attracted to ferrous surfaces and bonds with that surface to create a protective film, so it is really great science. In fact, it is so great that literally every engine oil on the planet uses ZDDP.
I work at a dealership... when we do factory long blocks or short blocks, sometimes they come with oil in them already, I do not know what that is, it is rumored to be a break in type oil, but I've never seen any proof of that. I've been through all the manufacture trainings for years. Anyways... The ones that come with no oil, they get normal off the shelf OEM Dino oil. Never had one come back with a problem and it probably went 3-5k miles on its first oil. Point is, I see those those same cars for years coming in for normal maintenance and what not, so I would know if their was an issue... Not to mention it would come back to me for an oil consumption issue, since I did the engine. I think it's a myth, but if you buy a motor and the seller tells you to use a break in type oil, just buy the snake oil so they at least can't blame you for their failed build.
I used BR30 on the LS6 I built last year. Seems like it worked pretty well, however I can't say for sure because I was rear ended in that car and the car was totaled after less than 2000 miles of driving with that engine :(
Make a video about : "PREMIUM FUELS vs REGULAR FUEL WITH ADDITING ADDITIVES" - I am really interested should I waste my money on just tanking premium fuel or should I use regular cheaper fuel but adding an additive to the each re-fuel
Great suggestion!
I would love to see you guys test LAT Race Oils. Very expensive But I will say a lot of pro mod and no prep race cars have switched over to LAT Race oil. There transmission fluid is amazing, but maybe you should test it.
fastest street legal car in america tom bailey , steve morris , garret mitchell all run Lat oil
I just purchased a new Westinghouse 11,500 watt generator. I have not started it yet, nor have I added any oil or fuel to it. It’s still brand new in the box. I want to break it in the correct way. I’m still trying to determine what is ideal to use for my oil. In this video you mention… ZMax, Driven, and Motul. My generator recommends 10W30. Which of these 3 brands would be best to use for my small engine?
I do plan to run the first 30 min, then change it, and then another hour, change it, and then maybe 2 more hours and change it. I will do this while on a load.
I’m looking which of these 3 brands is best suited for a generator, and then after break-in is completed, what oil should I use? A full synthetic? Please help with the best oil selections for my generator
Thank you
Awesome video guys. I think the question about what to use after 500 miles pertains more to what TYPE of oil, not brands etc.... continue using break in oil? Go back to a conventional? Does it solely rely on blow-by and if the rings have truly broken-in? Should they be broken in by 500 miles? (I think I know the answer to that one...)
I think the real question is when can we safely reintroduce an oil with friction modifiers?
Thanks again, keep 'em coming!
The rings should be broken in well before 500 miles, so you are safe to go to a friction modified oil after 500 miles.
New Ford Super Duty 6.7 Diesel, New arrived off Transport with 61 miles already on OD, Ford factory track drives several SD's prior to transport. SD 6.7 come with Ford 10W-30 conventional oil, not synthetic. At 15 qts Non-Syn, it was recommended by Ford to go 5000-7000 miles. I changed early with same Non-Syn at 3200 miles, and will move to AmsOil on next Oil (3rd) Change. Also performed 2 Oil Reports during the 1st Oil milage (2300 & 3200). Was this not a good method to break-in the Diesel?
How do I break in a new car / truck engine since they come with synthetic motor oil already in them from factory ?
Don't go over 4k rpm and very your speed. In essence, accelerate semi-hard to 4k rpm on occasion, and never drive a steady speed for long distances. Do this for 1,500 miles and you should be fine. As far as oil goes, there isn't an auto manufacturer that uses a break-in oil. You should be using an oil with the best film strength period.
I plan on using driven break in oil in my bigblock mopar when i get all my parts and can finally assemble it,haha
I have about 400cc left of royal purple 10-30 break-in oil after using it to break in a small engine. Any suggestions of or how I could use the rest of it? Or is it destined to sit on my garage shelf for the next 10+ years?
Throw it in a Diesel fuel tank , and forget it ,,, !
If a 90's high performance (re)build Toyota turbo engine was broken in on a 5w30 fully synthetic motor oil, is there a process to swap in a break-in oil to get proper seating of the rings which the synthetic oil may have prevented? What type of effect would a synthetic oil have on break-in process, and can it be undone, or is there permanent alteration/bonding/wear of the metal surfaces that cannot be "cleaned", and then properly broken in for ring seating?
Great job as always! Thanks guys.
I use lucas 20w50 break in for my harley and driven for my oil
great video you 2
Thank you!
Great info, thanks guys!
I am guilty of “chemical Russian-roulette”.
Have been using TurboMaxx which basically stops steel on steel wear. It has plenty of moly, zinc, calcium, etc, etc.
I used TotalSeal gapless second rings set.
Will my blow-by likely be excessive?
If so, could I re-hone the cylinders and use proper break-in oil?
I was instructed to change my break in oil after 500km and put in a non-synthetic for the next 5000km. Is there any benefit in doing an initial change at 250km w/ break in, then again another 250km w/ break-in and then change to Dino oil for the the 5000km change?
Watch this one... ua-cam.com/video/_6nWCQ_70J0/v-deo.html
I am going roller cam now on my engines for obvious reasons , so this new oil chemistry should work great on the rebuild.
Anyone of these will do a great job for you.
I used Comp Cams 5W-30 break in oil. Seems to have done the job.
I've used the Comp Cams 10W30 break in oil on 3 engines now. All have broken in just fine.
Most motorcycle manuals all say to coat valves and valves springs in moly grease. If I am rebuilding road bike engines would it be better to swap moly grease for different assembly lube? But again wouldn't that assembly lube also contaminate the break in oil? Great video lots of details love it
Would like to see the answer to this from total seal
I truthfully had never heard of this before but I am not in the motorcycle engine rebuilding world.
We are happy to help. The small amount of moly grease on the valves won’t hurt the rings as long as the break-in oil doesn’t contain Moly.
Hey Sirs
I purchased new let’s say 2022 Ford with 6.2 engine. Would it have been a good idea to drop the original oil at 5 odometer mileage replace with one of your breakin oils change filter run for 3000 miles ???
And if not just change out original oil before 1000 miles and use good synthetic oil and new filter ???
Excellent tutorials
Wondering the same
Is there any need to change your break in oil after say 20 miles of initial break in? Im wondering if the initial break in oil might contain any metal particles from the initial break in? So Im saying change the initial break in oil and replace it with more break in oil and then run it for the 400 500 miles thats recomended? Or just run the initial break in oil for the 400 miles then go to your standard running oil?
It does make sense to change the oil after 30 minutes of initial engine run time. There is a higher level of wear during that time.
So,basically break it in,drain oil and inspect,and fill it back up with break in oil again and run it?is it safe to run engine on just the outer springs while you finish breaking it in?
Hey Lake! SO very much appreciate your informative videos, and I am officially diving into the rabbit hole! My question concerns using break-in oil in a motorcycle, which would have a wet-clutch system where the engine oil would also lubricate the transmission as well (JASO MA-2). Do you foresee any issues with using a break-in oil for this application?
Motul break-in oil part # 108080 is great for motorcycles and wet clutch
It's difficult to argue science when the science tells you all break-in oils are substandard in film strength to virtually any off the shelf oil available. Test the film strength of any break-in oil of your choosing and you will see exactly what I mean.
Is the ZMax break in oil a better choice for initial break in on a full roller 383 sbc @ 530 hp than a mineral oil based 30 weight break in oil? I contacted ZMax without a reply
What’s the general consensus on running the driven break in oil after initial break in while dyno tuning? I plan on changing the oil and filter after the break in but there will some break in in the system (cooler and lines)
Looks like Break-In OIl uses a 45 - 50 Viscosity oil.
What viscosity oil do auto manufactuers use in their cars comming off the line?
Is it 8 - 16 - 20 weights?
Very surprised on Zmax, though they do admit the sponsorship, due to past lawsuits from FTC on Zmax putting out products that don't do what they claim.
They listened to our feedback and brought us a product that worked very well.
What is the best oil chemistry I should be looking for to break in (just) the flat tappet hydraulic camshaft and lifters in an engine with rings already properly mated to their bores - both seeming to be in good shape, with good leak down numbers in a mid mileage (under 60k miles) 1960s Pontiac V8 engine?
If moly is bad in break in oil. I use moly graphite assembly lube on the bearings because i found the transparent products dripped out. I do before initial start up remove the spark plugs and the oil filter. Use a remote starter button to spin the engine just a few seconds till i get oil from the filter mount. Screw the filter on and crank 10 more seconds . Then get ready for first start. Eye on oil pressure. Am i wrong in using the moly graphite assembly lube. I really have not experienced any ring break in issues.
We would recommend using a different bearing lube. There are plenty of good assembly oils and greases that don’t contain moly.
There are a dozen or more different types of Moly available. Not all moly is bad for a break in.
Stupid question: is there ever a benefit to cycle back to a break in oil? For example, after 25k km…run break in oil again for 500 km.
My guess is “no”. But, the question fascinated me.
No
Well said and essential.
Thank you!
I bought a GM V6 4.3L engine. Besides the other brands is 10W-30 Royal purple breaking oil ok? Or should stick with ZMax?
It should be fine
I'm very curious on something. What about the break in oil on something like a small engine for a lawn mower, snow blower, lawn edger, etc.?
I know some people say just to use Briggs & Stratton Small Engine Conventional Oil and change accordingly. It also makes me curious if Amsoil's Synthetic Small Engine Oil would work since it has no friction modifiers? Or maybe there is something I am unaware of?
I know this is a car care channel but I always drive old cars that I had nothing to do with the break in. But I am buying some brand new small engine equipment this year and plan to rebuild an old Briggs Quantum Engine. I would love to hear your opinion on the subject even though it may not concern cars.
Please and thank you.
Small engines like predator 212's, duromax engines, etc, can be broken in with regular oil, It won't significantly impact performance at all and is even recommended by official manuals. If you're worried about anything using proper break in oil won't hurt and is only a few dollars more expensive. Have fun! :)
What about GP-1 breakin oil. Compared two BR TAKE driven?
The GP-1 Break-In oil is very good!
So, you seem to be really good about responding to questions, so here's one. Ive been reading a blog by "Rat 540". As I understand his testing, its the oils ability to hold its film strength that primarily determines its protection? . IE, how much pressure does it take to penetrate the film and allow wear. Why is he wrong????
I though the manufacturer prefill breaking oil with brand new vehicle and often require change oil for the first 1000km back in the dealership. Isn't that the normal case?
Not any more. Most factory fill oils are called out to go 10,000 miles on the first oil change. ua-cam.com/video/_6nWCQ_70J0/v-deo.htmlsi=2ZSkTG_acX5A3v6B
My car requires 0W-20, preferably synthetic. Are you suggesting I should purchase a different weight oil for break in?????…if so, synthetic or non-synthetic???
Is it new factory car or reman engine
@@sschevmale24 factory made Lexus V-8…
Which break in oil should i use for my 2024 Toyota Rav4?
What did you use
Should the weight of the Breakin oil be same as what you will be running afterwards?
Yes!
My TotalSeal gapless ring set says to install the piston/rings into the cylinder dry, to aid in break-in. Is this still up to date information?
The QuickSeat works great with any of these break-in oils.
This may be a long shot but I've been trying to get a recomendation for an oil to use while breaking in new piston rings on a 25 hp kohler. I have ordered lucas sae 30 break in oil but I'm not sure if I am going to use it
The Driven BR30 is our go to oil for that.
Is Royal Purple engine break in oil ok?
Any off the shelf oil , not necessarily breakin oil that you would recommend?
So low molly like Pennzoil Ultra would work ?
We don’t recommend off the shelf oils for break-in.
@@TotalSeal I'm talking about new car off dealers lot and factory fill dump at 500miles , at that point engine is mainly broken in but what oil would be best for final oil breakin period ....
is lucas a good breaking oil for flat tapped cam
Should i use a break-in oil in my 2024 Toyota Rav4?
Considering the recall, that’s not a half bad idea.
@@TotalSeal I researched it...There is no recall
Is it a good ir bad idea to run break in oil if a car gas been broken in ? I have 40k, bought my 6.4 with zero miles abd broke in with the stock filled pennzoil 0w40 ultra platinum, and added a bottle of Redline break in additive. I removed tge oil at 500 miles, dud tge same orocess again for aporix 1000 miles, tgen continued to run the pennzoil 0w40 for 36k. I change my oil every 3000 miles. I just switched to Amsoil signature 0w40, and continue to cgange every 4000 mikes now...
Yes, it is not a good idea to use break-in oil past the break-in stage.
@@TotalSeal Thank you.
How are you doing a quick question I’m to the part where the breaking on you so I have a 7 quart oil pan that will mean I need 7 quarts of either Zmax driven or Moto anyone of them correct? Each one is a quart can you get back to me? Thank you.
Yes, the break-in oil is not an additive. For a 7 quart pan, use 7 quarts of the break-in oil.
we buy a new GM suv today, do they put breaking oil in it? say they put full synthetic in it, is that breakin oil?
Never have, never will.
Ok I'm trying to break in a Saab 4 cylinder iron block steal ring with hydraulic lifters. It's a forged piston deal. What would you suggest for a break in oil
Use one of the oils mentioned in the video.
Is amsoil 30 anything you would recommend
@@rolfemarquis1017 No
What are the factories, such as Ford using ?
Do you change oil after cam break in and again after engine break in?
Nope, the cam and engine will break-in within the first few hours of engine run time. Change the oil then.
Looking at the virgin oil analysis from a brand new car, I have it has a little bit of friction modifier and the detergents, and appears to be the same off shelf Pennzoil based on other oil analysis. Why would the OEM have friction modifiers and detergents if it was detrimental?
Definitely down the road when I do a full build on my Toyota 7M turbo I’m going to be using the driven braking additive and using total seal rings for that and follow the procedures on the video.
Fuel economy.
@@TotalSeal I guess what I’m referring to is the braking process in having some Molly and detergents in the virgin OEM factory filled oil, are they not worried that the rings will not seat properly by doing this? Or the OEM rings are not the same as high-performance total seal rings which serve a different purpose and proper breaking is more crucial with those ?
@@Good-luck-Jonathan Because of the fuel economy requirements, OEM gasoline engines feature ring face coating and cylinder bore surface finish that will allow them to seat with these thin, synthetic oils. They are very different from OEM Diesel engines. What we do with high performance engines and rings is closer to what the Diesel OEMs do.
@@TotalSeal oh, that’s interesting because mine is also a brand new eco-diesel. I wonder if some diesels are different than others? as I mentioned, it’s strange that this has detergents from the factory and the Molly on virgin New samples the community took when they first bought their truck? I’m hoping that in the case of this particular engine OEM must’ve been OK with using the non-breaking oil? As I said, I boosted it a little bit with ZDDP which I know in normal cases it’s not optimal but in this case since it came that way, I just wanted to add a little bit more.
You guys need to research Penn Grade motor oil. Not Pennzoil, Penn Grade coming from Western Pa. Very high in Zinc and Phosphorus. Great for break in and Racing.
We are familiar with that product. It is no longer coming from PA. Instead, it is made in Indiana now, and it has a high detergent level. That’s why it is not on our recommended list.
Which is such a shame the brad Penn racing oil was great struff that was my oil of choice for my medium performance 350 sbc.... the new product is definitely not the same quality. I switched over to valvoline vr1 because it's always on the local parts store shelves and seems to work well... I used comp cams break in-oil back in 2013 for the build. Ran it for 30 mins and changed the oil. Maybe 2000 miles on the car since and she screams.
Doesn't Total Seal Quick Seat contain a moly? If not, what is in it?
It is a dry film lubricant that doesn't react with the ZDDP in the oil or state on the cylinder. It is only protecting during assembly.
Who makes z max oils ?
hey lake
is there a chart that has break in oil and classic flat lifter oil
chemistry. break downs ???
www.speediagnostix.com/total-seal
Do you think shell rotella t4 15/40 work for break-in oil on my motorcycle and thanks from Higganum Connecticut USA
Rotella is not a break-in oil. The detergent level is too high.
@@TotalSeal Thank you and have a Happy Thanksgiving 🦃
What about 4 stroke outboards?
Same rules apply
@@TotalSeal only curious because it has a 10hr break in procedure. Suzuki recommends fc-w 10w30 and their oil claims to be 25% synthetic and rest mineral oil. No syn for a break in as I hear. Just want to do it right being my first brand new outboard.
I don't want to win any races. I just want my rebuilt engine to last as long as possible under reasonable daily driving.
The same science that wins races also makes engines last longer.
I do have a degree in chemistry and what you don’t know can put a big hurt on you. I’ve never used additives for that reason. You are rolling some pretty nasty dice.
We used to ask for non-detergent oil
Back in the day, the non-detergent still had Zinc.
You all don't spit in your oil?! Extra extra. Lol
I'm rebuilding my CBR 600rr, Is LUCUS SAE 30 Break-in Oil HIGH ZINC something I could look at (It was a gift)
That is an OK oil for ring break-in.
Hey guys, the only race I'm interested in winning is going 300k miles without internal engine problems.
I use straight 30wt (mineral based) non-detergent oil from a good oil company. After cam break-in, leak check, adjustments, I drain that and go to a conventional (again mineral based) multi grade oil - weight dependent on the customer's ultimate use for the engine. I recommend first actual oil change at 500mi, and then on to regular oil change intervals using regular or synthetic based oil(s)
Non detergent SAE 30 oil work? 🤔
Nope, non detergent SAE 30 typically has ZERO additives in it at all.
Looks like a couple of Italian's, talking with their hands. That aside, using a good quality mineral oil for the first 1000 km or 600 miles is probably a wise decision in most applications, as can be seen thats what's on the Motul label.
Neither one of them could speak if you tied their hands behind their backs, LOL.
Can you test the lofty claims of tvt green? There is absolutly nothing on it other than trust me bro testimonials and 2 friction tests. i think it works, but they claim after the proper introduction into the engine, that it can run for a long time without oil and with minimal wear to the engine. Also that it doesnt hurt ring seal. Eigther it contains the god partical or its just great marketing.
We've never heard of TVT Green, and we are not fans of any type of additives.
@@TotalSeal good to know
Get to the point. What oils done
Anyone had tried Amsoil break-in oil, any feedback is appreciated
That is a high Calcium formula, which is not ideal.
@@TotalSeal thanks much apriciated, I will try to get my hands on Motul then, and not use Molí paste on my cam, I guess the same break in oil will do it's job as well with the cam.
Computerized oil huh? Oil that allows wear in one area and prevents it in another.
Ya! I would call that magical properties and marketing
I luv this topic,,,or should i say myth,,, it aint zinc its film strength you seek. Look up " Rat540" oil tests. A racer,engineer.
Valvoline 15-40 super diesel
That's not a break-in oil
@@TotalSeal Australia's best engine builder how done my engine uses it. Break in oil is not needed on roller engines, it only has to have high Zinc in it like Valvoline 15-40 super diesel
@@jasonnash2691 Piston rings break-in just like flat tappet cams. Otherwise, we would not be talking about this.
Tried to listen to three videos from these guys. Waaaaaaay too much talking. My God, get to the point.
I would agree. This should be a 5 minute video. I feel more stupid after watching it. It is like watching a #FordBossMe video. A lot of blah blah blah with maybe 3 seconds of something useful.
True, but Lake is one of the worlds foremost experts on lubrication.
Waaaa
Guys. Some people just like to hear themselves talk.
Lol I thought it was just me..
Break in oil I bought was nothing more than mineral oil.................I was disappointed to say the least
If the base oil was mineral oil, that is not a problem. In fact, it is better than synthetic for initial break-in. The real key is the additive package blended into the base oil. That’s where the big difference comes in.
I understand what you guys are saying but I just wished you didn't sound like those fake tv evangelists or the goofy infomercials that are on at 4:00 in the morning. I almost stopped watching just because of that.
Keith and Lake just have a lot of fun doing these videos. It's genuine passion for this industry that is coming across.
It is all "marketing" Lake or you would not be getting kickbacks from companies. LOL.
Fair statement considering the obvious sponsorship tie with Z-max.
Bla bla bla low detergent, high zinc, no moly, bla bla bla
ho cares???
Anybody that just dropped 5 grand on rebuilding an engine, or for a new crate engine.
Does it ever occur to you guys that possibly it is high time that a class and ingredients by proportion is defined so that people don`t have to lose their minds about what it is that constitutes breaking oil .? Friction is good for seating rings but not for con rod and crank bearings ..what kind of voodoo chemistry are you too talking about without revealing the correct proportions ? Yeah ok , we don`t recommend brands, but recommend the chemistry ...fine...what is that chemistry ? Oh the brands that you are mentioning but not recommending are all three equal ? Oh masters of the twilight zone !!
All of the chemistry is listed in this video: ua-cam.com/video/teDgJgPeeeU/v-deo.html