B and E Body Torsion Bars explained.
Вставка
- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- This video explains the differences between E Body Dodge Challenger and Plymouth Barracuda and B Body Dodge / Plymouth Charger, Coronet, Super Bee, Satellite, Road Runner, etc. and the torsion bars they use. It will explain which torsion bars are used for which engines, their original look, their diameter and more.
Omfg !!!! This whole time my torsion bars where backwards and I’ve been wondering for months why my keys didn’t fit and this simple video fixed everything thank you so much !!!!! This was such good info
Mopar always did a great job of marking everything... Odd number bar is always left and even number is always right when ever there's is a left or right goes for all mopar parts...another great thing about mopars is from 1966 to the 90s a lot of parts would interchange between models making them cheaper to make and easier to find parts for example the door handle and many cars interchange... 72 Dart door handle will fit a 90s pick up truck...window motors also interchange... For instance I do not like the rear view mirror mounted on the windsheild...but the boss for mounting a roof mounted one is still there in the cars and trucks so I just mount an earlier one there is one my 76 charger and my 87 Ramcharger which has one out of a 60s B van.
Can you change torsion bars will the bigger ones fit ive changed from 383 to 440
Yes, the bigger ones will fit.
I see 1.03 inches hotchkis brand after market for sale by various vendors. I have 1966 Charger 383 4bbl automatic. Your thoughts.
Aftermarket is what it is. Not original as intended by mopar engineers years ago. Some are very rigid. Just depends what you are looking for. Mopar performance sells new ones to replace old ones that are near original. I personally don't use a lot of custom things because deviation from original can be difficult sometimes especially on mopars to get the ride and drive you want. Better sometimes to leave original set up or reproduction like original in the car as intended. Good luck.
The AAR 'Cuda and T/A Challenger had the Hemi bars with a 1" front sway bar and 3/4" rear sway bar for a great handling package with the 340 six pack.
My 340 has 780 and 781. Build sheet confirmed.
Muy bueno el video.Me aclarado muchas dudas sobre las barra torsion.
Been into Mopars for 30 years and just learned something new!
thanks for the video and nice infos ! if someone want to remove a manual transmission A833 from a 73 charger , can we remove the cross member that bolts the sway bar to make some room to remove it and reinstall it without ruining the suspension .
I am not sure I understand your question. Personally I normally pull the engine and transmission out together from the bottom of the car with the suspension held underneath. You can remove the transmission without removing the engine or k frame area. Lower control arms are dropped when I take the K frame out. I release the pressure on the torsion bars completely. It will need to be realigned if you do this. I have removed suspension or dropped control arms and never had the repair bushings in them. It might depend how old and how difficult it is when removing the suspension component as well.
Really good video very informative I have a 73 that had a 340 but I'm putting the 400 in it should I replace the torsion bars because of surface rust and age what size would I need
They sell new bars. It's up to you. I would see how your existing bars work first. Good luck with it.
GRAT INFO, TY....MOPAR for EVER....!
great job on the video 🙂☕👍
Thanks for the video
Clint, after putting all new 340 engine, new tires, new rims, alignment, all new front end suspension and components, new brakes and balanced driveshaft in my 72 ebody, I still get the same shake/shudder after 70mph. Any idea what else to check?
I've heard of this before. My friends cuda clone with 440 was a little too high sitting in the engine bay and caused an angle. It had something to do with his mounts. But, so many things can cause an engine or trans to be at a slight angle they could cause a shimmy at a higher mph or rpm. Still could be other things, but his car was due to his angle off a little for his drive train sitting in the car. Good luck.
Is the shake and shudder in the front or the rear of the car?
@@bobgoble2228 Feels like it's right in the middle or throughout. its not in the steering wheel for sure
@@georgepapaioannou5115 I would check the u joints and make sere they are seated properly. The should be two ears that the joint fits down in.
@@bobgoble2228 Thanks but the shake was there before I completely redid the driveshaft. They are in correct.
Is their a front of the bar or does it matter?
I've seen the go either way, but I would check the bars to see if either end is longer. I think they are the same length. But if I found one end longer I'd probably install the longer end into the lower control arm. Also, I've looked to see if one end lines up easier too. If everything is equal on length on ends, then shouldn't really matter. Just make sure you use the correct left and right labeled bars for the corresponding side of vehicle.
Nice job Dude. Thank you.
How about the length and hex orientation....
What about them? They are all similar in length and the ends of the torsion bars are similar because they must fit into the same frame and lower control arm sockets.
@@clintsclassicworld : explain what characteristic of the bar makes it a right or left....Also, when you say "similar", in length, what difference is there between body series( b,c, d)....That information separates
useful information from trivia....
@regdor8187 about 1 minute into the video I mentioned they say L and R. This means left and Right.
@@regdor8187b body and e body use similar torsion bars. Not sure what a D body is. I am only speaking on E and B body.
Not enough,what is the front and back
I think you are asking what numbers are on the front and back. I explained this on the video. One set of numbers is part of the part number. The other set is vendor code.