The Big HEI Ignition Conversion Video! How To Convert Your Classic Mopar (Or Anything Else) To HEI
Вставка
- Опубліковано 10 лип 2024
- I teased this concept in my Mopar ignition systems video, and have been asked many times since to explain it in more detail. So on today's video, let's do that.
Link to the wiring diagram I have always used (that, as discussed, always seems to have the distributor wires backwards): www.allpar.com/attachments/he... - Авто та транспорт
How did you know I needed something mopar to watch today again.
I just had a feeling 😅
I’m LITERALLY doing this upgrade on the black truck as you posted this video!
Nailed it!
Great video. Appreciate your clear diagram and matching verbal description.
I've done it it two my cars and I'm loving it. Small block has an adapter from designed2drive. That hides module under distributor. For my slant six, I hide module in old broken orange box and used factory wiring.
Nice tricks. Personally, I don’t mind seeing the module. It’s tiny. But I can understand hiding it out of sight.
TheGM HEI was one of the best automotive inventions of the 70's. The cool thing now is you can get the entire distributor for pretty much any engine.
I meant to cover that in the video but… forgot. I don’t like the big HEI distributor in places it doesn’t belong, but that’s a matter of personal taste.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Yes, it's HUGE, but we have one on our W250 with a 318 and it fits all nice like.
There are small cap and big cap versions. Of course, you need your old coil for the small cap version. On a Mopar, the distributor does not have a gear on it. But on Ford and AMC it does and you have to be very careful which gear you get with those aftermarket HEIs. Iron gear with an iron cam and bronze gear with a steel cam (roller usually). I THINK.
Ask around if you are getting one for one of these makes.
Also, the big cap ones interfere with many air cleaners on certain engines like 302
Fords.
Small engine guys also use the HEI module on some of the Tecumseh motor that had the solid state ignition modules that burn up and are NLA. They have 2 pins on the flywheel that trigger a (gasp) Ford ABS module from the rear diffy to the HEI and fire a coil, pretty reliable setup.
I have had a mopar in one shape or form for 50 years a d only lost 2 modules and 0 ballast resistors so if it ain't broke,leave it the #$%& alone is my motto,but good to know,have 2 440's in boat with electronic ignition from ma mopar. Will arm myself with the parts and keep in case of emergency. As always, very informative. 👍🍺
Typically one of the reasons those ECU's fail is from a bad ground. I usually run a ground wire from one of the mounting bolts to a good chassis or engine ground. You can check it with the key on using a test probe from the ECU case to ground. If the light illuminates, bad ground. Of course the engine wouldn't start. I had random 'no start' issues.
That was a great discussion of the HEI. I noticed the quality of all of those ignition modules started failing more often in the '90's, late '90's when they became more 'imported'. The Mopar ECU always had the smallest dwell but were still reliable. The GM HEI had the best dwell. If you can find a genuine GM (Made in the USA) module you should be golden. Even a lot of the NORS were US made. I was always amazed that contemporaneously using mid '70's electronics GM was able to put their module in such a small format back then and the Mopar box was comparatively huge. GM did have a great R&D facility in the Delco Electronics div.
I've purchased 2 standard motor brand. Now I purchased a "performance" one. It's got 1hour on it now its dying.
@@denpepp4342 Usually the 'old' NOS or even used OE GM Delco ones were good. Even the 'parts store' brands up until the early '90's. The Pertronix 'original' Ignitor kits are OK. The original Ignitor was made in the US as of 5 or so years ago last I checked. Never had an issue with those.
I paid $500 for HEI distributor to put on a Cleveland in the 90s. Now you can get one with plug wires for a 100 bucks.
And for another 100 bucks, you can get one that comes with the smaller cap, And
Coil on the outside . And that GM alternator with the internal regulator all you have to do is jump those 2 prongs togother
And charge fourteen plus.
First time watcher, not a big Dodge fan, but HUGE fan of your style of video. 😊👍
Thank you!
Love the lama barn valiant! More yes more!
Yikes that fire was close. Awesome video..downloading this for future use and reference when out in the stix trying to get junk going. I need to add one or two of these to the tool box
Great video and information!👍
Take care and thank you for the information
I did this to my 83 Ram. Well worth it.
Nice! Thanks for the info!
Back in 2016, I purchased a 1974, original 51 thousand mile Cutlass Supreme. It had the "point" distributor installed from the factory. GM installed HEI on vehicles starting the 75' model year, along with cat converters. The very first thing I did to my Cutlass 350 V8 was to install the GM HEI system. What a big difference it made to the car. Quicker starts, much better acceleration, engine idles very smoothly, a little better fuel mileage, and of course, the 8mm spark plug wires. This car was put in storage in February 1979 in a temp controlled environment in Detroit Mi. I have since made upgrades...rear disk brake system, 4-row aluminum Champion radiator, an aluminum water pump, an aluminum heater core, a totally new 4-season air conditioner compressor, a completely new Moog front suspension and rear coil springs, switched from 14' to 15 in Cutlass SS wheels because of the rear disk brake system, removed the "dead" 8-track tape system and installed a Delco stereo radio with new Blaupunkt front and rear speakers, annnnd a Blaupunkt Beverly Hills 71 CD-DVD stereo system. The Delco stereo radio and the CD player shares the very same speaker system. It sits under the dash between the console and the ash tray, a perfect spot. My next project for this car is the paint and vinyl top. The color is Citation Bronze and the vinyl top is saddle beige. Then she will definitely be complete, better than when she lift the factory. OK guys, as I said befoe...us car guys talk about three things....women, cars, and football. Probably NOT in that order but close. Good day guys. Enjoy your rides.
I don’t have time for football. Haha.
Pics, PLEASE!!!!!
Thanks! Gonna try this on my Toyota truck.
Awesome and Awesome!! Thank you!
Thanks for a great video
Great video,thanks
I had an 80s Culass Calais v6 which kept blowing up the hei ignition module because I failed to use the thermal grease because I was dumb. Expensive education in heat transfer.
I find education is indeed often expensive…
Don’t know what we did wrong. Had an HEI retrofit on a small block Mopar. Electronic ignition distributor. Setup was exactly as in this video. Flamethrower coil, aluminum heat sink just like the one in the video. Heat sink paste and trimmed off the plastic nubs. After 3 burned out modules and being stranded 3 times; removed the HEI and currently have a pertronix distributor.
Huh. I don’t either! Poor body ground or a voltage supply problem come to mind. I have seen a good few modules fail, and the poor ground issue seems to be the most prevalent.
I had an experience where I had some Mopar ignition boxs and maybe a voltage regulator or two in my garage. I noticed the goo or epoxy had melted and looked like a lava flow dangling from one ignition box. I cut it off (it had resolidified), looked at the box and the circuits, now easily visible, looked ok. I put it back in the cardboard box with the others.
Next time I looked, all the rest had melted out the epoxy, too.
I have to conclude that the epoxy isn't failing because of old age or heat. The garage isn't more than 115 degrees even in the summer. I believe it is some sort of bacteria or fungus. In other words, it is contagious!
Gross… haha. I have seen many of them do that. Lots of rigs I’ve revived over the years have happy trails like that coming from the various modules.
@@DeadDodgeGarage It did not happen to identical boxes that were in cars sitting outside in the sun. They were medically isolated from the infection.
I guess if I ever buy a new box, it will not go anywhere near the goo leaked ones. I wonder if I can use some kind of epoxy to seal the backs up again.
It is a big space, so it can't be too expensive. What do you recommend.
That's pretty common on the 'Mopar' electronic 'boxes' of that era. It's called 'potting' and won't effect anything. It's mostly a silica based 'sand' and a resin that's supposed to be 'semi-rigid'. Almost always it will melt when hot. I had a few of the '81-'83 Imperials a long time ago and all the modules did that under the hood. What you can do that works best is clean it off with carb cleaner or lacquer thinner. Then I used some 'flowable' windshield silicone from Permatex and leveled the box and refilled it. It sealed the old stuff in. You don't need to or want to get rid of all the old material. Of course, you could use epoxy or something, but you want to be able to dig it out if the box needs to be repaired, which is why the potting isn't permanent. It's supposed to provide environmental and vibration resistance.
@@vincemajestyk9497 I'm well familiar with potting. Haha. My first experience with it was in electric guitar pickups.
The parts store control box deserves some comment. The dome on the top is just a dome added to simulate the appearance of the transistor. They took these apart and found that the heat sink is not connected to the circuits inside. So it is essentially a dummy, too. I would not expect much if you are using these.
That's really interesting! I kind of suspected as much. I noticed it didn't have the thin Mica insulation under the heat sink/transistor.
@@vincemajestyk9497 Yes, good observation!
I have heard this. I chose not to discuss that in this video. I have experienced many failures with old, factory Mopar boxes, and view them all in the same negative light. But there is a difference.
I was going to suggest a heatsink from the thumbnail, but you explained that, I even modify GM factory HEI distributors with an extra finned heatsink, especially with performance modules
Don't need such IF you use the paste used in computers under the module, Been using Arctic Silver 5 AS5-3.5G Thermal Paste under EACH HEI module in my 3 Ford HEI conversions for 20+ years, NO issues with ANY of them
That valiant is sweet!
It’s pretty cool! I’ve done one video on it already. More are definitely coming as I make improvements.
Good stuff!
Good job 👍
Hey Jaime, great video! I made a video about this myself on my channel. Slant fish garage and for a very long time. Well, I still am hardcore Mopar but for a long time I've known about this swap and until just like within the last year I started using one of these on one of my mopars and I'm really surprised it works exceptionally well and with all the Chinese made parts around out there these days it's really hard for me to get the ballast resistors to last. I usually don't have a lot of trouble with the modules. I have had a couple of those go out but usually for me it's the it's the ballast resistors but great video. Keep up the good work man
Been using Arctic Silver 5 AS5-3.5G Thermal Paste under EACH HEI module in my 3 Ford HEI conversions for 20+ years, NO issues with ANY of them
Hey slant fish do you know how to bypass the electronic controll lean for the hei installation?
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!!!!!!
Funny this setup came with my slant im rebuilding. I was going to look it up but hey you saved me alot of time.
Im sure i will wire it up the first time because when i put leds in my cab clearance lights for my 90 i got the polarity wrong on all 5 bulbs go figure
ITS ALIVE!!!!
You can go nuts on older engines nowadays.
You can throw on a seven pin ignition module, lockout the vac and centrifugal advance, phase the distributor, chunk on a throttle position module, a mas, knock sensor, oil pressure sensor, water temp, air temp, two idle solenoids, manifold pressure, ecm and the coop day grass add a carb cheater to any old carbureted clunker and bring them into the 21st century.
Always starts, maintain a 14.5 afr, self adjusting timing and choke with all the safety whohaws, get great mileage and get to keep you old carb.
Oh oh oh! Or, you don’t do all that, and you can still get great fuel mileage and decent power, without giving yourself a coronary adding a bunch of electronic BS…
@@DeadDodgeGarage O don't get me wrong I'm just saying it's very possible to do. Would I? Depends on the situation.
A one of a kind motor with no parts availability with a bad distributor or something.
Maybe convert what can't be fixed or replaced.
Or just to see how a model A or T with a flat head would run with an injector throttle body and coil on plugs
Thanks Jamie
I LOVE HEI.
I've never had an hei module fail but I've never used one in a sketchy setup. Points?
I have been considering a Mercruiser Thunderbolt module intended for the 4.3 V6. The later module has a knock sensor input but that's not my favorite one because the advance curve might be wonkier than I want to deal with. The module without knock sensor input makes for a snappy advance curve V8's love.
Great video! I know this is a mopar swap but I found it looking for a wiring diagram which you had! Unfortunately this did not work in my boat due to having a Hall effect pickup in the original boat distributor. 👎 thanks for a very informative video none the less.
Ooohhh, yeah, that’s kind of a horse of a different color. The swap does work on all kinds of stuff! It’s not Mopar specific. Thanks!
Good Vid!
Hope you feel better soon,very soon !
Thank you! It’s been up and down. I really should just take it easy for a few days - but I don’t know how.
"Chrome box"... This was basically the same as the stock Mopar ignition module without the RPM limiting circuit. I think it was limited to 5000 rpm. The "Chome box" was also knon as the "505" box, called that for the last three digits of the p/n. Later they came out with the "orange box", which was the same, also the "505" p/n. About that time there were cheap aftermarket replacements (you could even get those in Walmart) that were chromed but were not the "505". Maybe that's why Mopar went to orange, I don't know. I am not sure, don't know where I picked up this tidbit, but the bit TO3 transistor, the one on the heat sink, on the 505 box was a higher rated transistor.
You got My sub.....❤
I lift with my back, never had a problem.
Me too - and I always make sure to use a sharp jerking motion as well.
I was skeptical that 0.38 ohm coil was too low. It would be if you were using a Mopar box, other than a real high end one like a P part Chrome or Gold box. Well, depending on the ballast. I just now am searching for "Primary ballast for an HEI coil" and it may be right on the money for that.
Anyway, you could find a good heat sink for that HEI module. Also, some way to get it out of the flow of water from where the hood seals to the fender.
Our family had a 56 Savoy when I was a toddler. Parked outside, water from rain and snow ran down the back of the hood to the distributor and other parts on the firewall and it was hard to start in the morning. Towel drying was a frequent event. The A engine had that disadvantage that the B and sixes didn't have. I would love a 56 Savoy 2 door now.
Been using Arctic Silver 5 AS5-3.5G Thermal Paste under EACH HEI module in my 3 Ford HEI conversions for 20+ years, NO issues with ANY of them
hello ! ( from France) no way to understand how the HEI can suppress the ballast... ?? a 0.35 Ohms coil is about 43 amperes ... (12/0.35) this is exactly what my generator is producing ... of course with DWELL it is 43 x 0.7 = 30 A ... can someone explain me this "magic" THX ( sorry for my english here in FR everybody forgot Chrysler ignition, while it fitted a real huge lots of SIMCA)
@@frednoname3714 Unless the Simcas are 8 cylinders, you don't need HEI to get a long dwell.
@@auteurfiddler8706 another way to solve my understanding plz. Does HEI and MOPAR's modules just feed the coil some ms before spark ? This would explain solve things. I want try that on a race SIMCA 1000 engine ( found distributor ) thx !!
@@frednoname3714 I saw a comparison between Mopar box, HEI and Ford. They all use magnetic distributors. The current they generate is not the same in magnitude but the same in type. And the boxes or more or less sensitive. But that doesn't mean you can't mix and match. I think you can. Just make sure you ballast with the Mopar and regular 13.4 volts with the HEI.
I would sure try to use the HEI on the Simca. If it doesn't work , you can always get a CD ignition box that will work with your new distributor.
Hey the HEI module isn't much better they die in the old days it was if you drove a Chrysler you kept an extra ballast in your glove box and if you drove a GM product carried an extra 4-pin module in your glove box
They do die from time to time, but I’ve had much better luck with them than the Chrysler module.
Been using Arctic Silver 5 AS5-3.5G Thermal Paste under EACH HEI module in my 3 Ford HEI conversions for 20+ years, NO issues with ANY of them
Nice. That’s the good stuff. I’ve never used thermal paste for anything outside of a computer myself.
Love the video! quick question. Do you think this would this work okay with a MSD blaster 2 without a ballast resistor? or should i still keep the 0.8 ohm ballast installed?
You won’t need a resistor with the HEI and Blaster 2.
Mind blown
I just bought a hei distributor for my 65 poly from Amazon the whole kit was a complete distributor pig tails and plug wires for $80 bucks
Great video. Hoping you might be able to answer a question… I’m building an engine run stand and decided to wire it to run the alternator also. Since Automotive Wiring is not my first language, I’m stuck on where a voltage regulator fits in to the mix… or is it even needed with HEI? It’s never mentioned in the Mopar/HEI conversion videos that I can find. Thanks!
You’re talking about two completely separate systems - the ignition system and the charging system. It’s not mentioned for that reason. The charging system doesn’t care what ignition system you are running. The electronic ignition system *might* care about your charging system’s output - people on the internet seem to think so - but only because the electronic ignition module might prefer a stable voltage to operate on. You still need a voltage regulator to coax a charge output out of your Mopar alternator. We don’t run the charging system on our run stand. I did wire it, but a freshly charged deep cycle battery has been sufficient to run the ignition, electric fuel pump and cooling fan for our 20 minute break ins. We usually don’t bother.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I’ve got it now. For some reason I thought it had to be inline with the VR or something 🤷♂️ Thanks again.
Great info, thanks!! Question: any brand of HEI module more reliable, and are there any brands to stay away from? Are genuine GM modules still available and are they significantly better?
I have been told in the comments that genuine older GM modules are a better bet than any new ones. I don’t know if they are still made, or if they’re any good. I usually buy Standard Ignition and have had relatively good luck.
HERESY! I shall call the Chrysler bishop and have you horsewhipped! 😀
Lol. Good info for new guys. It started in the 90s with voltage regulators and in the 2000s the mopar ECUs replacements started to be junk. Its been many years but I bet if you could grab an OEM ECU it would work fine vs any new one. Now cams are junk!? ugg. The HEI is a simple setup like the one wire alternator and we know it has to be because its made for Chevy guys😅 Im betting ill be using HEI soon though!
Seems the oem module died and they replaced it by an aftermarket module. That thing died too and now im stuck. Is any GM module fitting a mopar igmition system? For my stock 1976 dodge w200...
I'd add a hi-po coil then too.
Great content by the way, love your vids!
Swapped out the duraspark module in my 79 courier's 2.3 for an HEI because I couldn't get a duraspark box to live there for any length of time, including the one from the donor Ford ranger. Blew out 4 or 5 HEI modules before it occurred to me that a ground wire on the mounting lug might be a good idea. Trouble free for years & years after that. To Hell with ballasts & resistor wires. Skip all that idiocy. HEI's the way to go. Get a length of 3/16 x 2in aluminum strap from the local Home Shlepo for a heat sink & remember to snap that little plastic tab off the back of the module so it sits flat. You can't go wrong!
Works great! But yes, a good ground is important. Haha.
Had an HEI setup exactly like this video in my small block Mopar. Did put a jumper to ground. Heat sink with paste. Clipped nubs. Maybe 400 miles total, 3 failed modules. Ditched the system.
Running pertronix at the moment.
i like that lama barn car
Me too! More on that coming soon.
That wiring harness for the Mopar box is available.
It sure is!
Questions at 10:mins
1.Connect another wire to the G side to the Battery positive on the ignition coil? For it to act as a pull up resistor?
2. When im grounding out the w terminal i'm taking another wire and to the body?
3. Would any ignition module work? Or do I have to get a certain year?
You would need a suitable resistor, with one end connected to coil positive and the other end connected to the G terminal. Yes, ground can be the body, the engine - a good, suitable ground. As far as I know, any four pin module can be used this way. I always say 1975 Chevy for simplicity. I have only ever tried triggering a module with points once, and it’s been a long time. But if you haven’t found it, here is a good diagram. www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/hei-jpg.2926295/
That's awesome! I hooked up this ignition system on my dining room table so see if i could get spark, with a new distributor, a new module. Coil is old but still works( tested with a battery) And of course not getting any spark with all my sparkplug.. so sadness. Second day at it.
@@DeadDodgeGarage also do you think a normal ignition coil would work? I don't have an msd blaster :/. 3rd day on trying this set up.. no spark..
Hmm I've never noticed any difference from mopar boxes of different colours save 1, the fbo box but it's not truly a mopar box. As for ballast resistors, yes they burn out and get very hot. To help this I space them out from the firewall by using a nut in behind, pop the mounting bolt through and viola!
Coooool
I have a Dodge with a 225. Do you happen to have a part number for a Chrysler hei distributor that would work with a conversion? Or a Chrysler year/make/model? Thanks.
I assume you mean an electronic distributor that can be used with the HEI module like I’ve shown here. If you ask the parts store for a ‘73 Dodge Dart 225 slant distributor, you’ll get the right one.
Yes sir. Thanks. So the 73 Dart has an electronic distributor as in non points?@@DeadDodgeGarage
I did the hei conversion on 1982 dodge d150 I'm getting spark fron coil to distributor but no spark from distributor to plugs any suggestions thanks
Very few options there. Weak coil, bad coil wire, or weird cap and rotor problem. Not much else I can think of.
No problem, thanks for the response
I have 81 dodge truck with lean burn electronic module that’s bolted onto air cleaner. Would love to put hei system. I have already bought gm module and hot msd coil. This truck did not have ballis resister so I’m scratching my head. This is my 14 year old daughters truck. 225 motor
Huh. I thought they still had a resistor. My ‘79 Chrysler that had Lean Burn does. If the coil positive terminal shows a full 12v when the engine is running, you’ll just use that wire to power your coil and module and you’re good to go. If not, find a power wire on the lean burn that has juice during running and cranking, and use that.
That is super cool but can it be done with a positive ground 6v dodge?
No, the HEI isn’t going to like any of that. If I were keeping a system 6v, I would be keeping the points.
I grabbed a pertronix Distributor, would that replace the HEI chip entirely?
Yes! The Pertronix distributor is a great solution. It honestly might be my favorite at this point for simplicity - with the possible downside that when it dies… you’re kinda up a creek without a paddle as far as finding parts to fix it at a store.
Where would one buy a good module online? ‘Any partstore’ in holland do not have them..
Aaaahhh… rock auto? It was used on many GM/Chevy products for at least a decade.
Hey jamie, so for the B pin on HEI module, I have a red wire going from that to positive post on coil and then a new spliced into that existing wire as said and ran to the blue “run” wire on ignition switch. That wire gets 11.99 volts on run and about 10.90 volts on start. Did I do this correctly?
That sounds about right to me, but assuming your battery voltage is 12.6, you have a good bit of voltage drop between the battery and ignition switch.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I got 12.99 volts on battery. I know it’s kindve a drop but it should still be ok right? I got a no start crank issues but I’m fairly confident it’s just cause of my pick up coil getting electrically surged out
Did you see my test spark detail? If your distributor is bad but everything is wired right, when you turn the key on then off, it will spark from the coil once. If it does that you’ve got a distributor problem.
@@DeadDodgeGarageI did not. What time was that in the video?
@@DeadDodgeGarageit did in fact spark once on run position off of spark plug wire to coil
I'm going to have to disagree with you on this one, Jamie. I've always "converted" any Mopar I had at the time
to the Mopar electronic ignition - and always by using one of their kits, which are quite complete with harness
and all (even a new, slightly different ballast - 0.8ohm I think?).
I've never had an ECU fail either - but that might be because of my fondness of the really old ones from the 70's
and 80's, back before quality went to crap.
I'll still pick one of those up sometimes when I see it - which just means I have spares, I guess.
The other thing is - it's a MUST to convert the voltage regulator also. Makes a big difference!
BTW, a rebuilt A1/Cordone electronic distributor used to be a nice piece, too - but I think they discontinued them.
Mancini sells the conversion kits now from like 4 different brands - gotta watch out for Chinesium though!
BONUS: Accel still sells the heavy duty tan dist. cap w/brass inserts for their distributors - which is an exact
copy of the Mopar cap. Yay!
-Ed on the Ridge
I won't buy an aluminum insert cap. They seem to last only a couple of hundred miles before the insides start looking black and crispy.
Way before the Chinese Proform knock-off 'Mopar' kits Mopar Performance had a rash of bad Orange ECU modules in the '90's which were US made. I got 3 of them brand new out of the box in 'kits'. Put my old ECU on and the car fired right up. Chrysler was aware of it. Also the other issue was the late '90's to early 'ought thousands 'Orange boxes' (Mopar OE) would retard the ignition timing. So yes, the Orange boxes had quality issues going way back. My bad ones were in 1995. These boxes are so lousy now I have TWO bolted to my car. The one that I use and my hot spare. And I've had to use the spare and pitch the bad one and buy another to replace it 'in case'. Especially for an older 'classic' now, particularly one that had points, I would use a Pertronix or the GM module. I've had good luck with the original Pertronix. I've even used them in dual point distributors.
@@vincemajestyk9497 Hence why I said "70's and 80's" boxes were what I gather up...
Those old OE ECU's were the most RPM limited of all. If you don't rev over 52-6000 RPM they're probably 'OK'. Stock were 3 flavors. 5200, 5500, and 6000 rpm. The factory released several updates to those from their inception thru the early '80's. You could not get adequate coil saturation for high RPM use. I have several TSBs regarding those modules. Even the Direct Connection Ignition Bulletin says that. There is a list of the heat sink colors and part number with the coil primary tolerances and ballast requirements and RPM limit. There was a high reliability part sold that went to 9500 RPM. Understand that those early semiconductors/circuits were NOT fast switching devices which do not improve with age. The capacitors get leaky. @@moparedtn
Good to know about the Accel cap. Glad that has worked out for you. I’ve gotten plenty of miles out of Mopar boxes, but I’ve had almost as many failures with them as I have electronic voltage regulators - and that includes old factory stickered units. I’m not going to rely on them anymore. If a car or truck is already wired for it, fine. I’ll carry a spare box. If I’m retrofitting electronic ignition on a driver car, I’m going to go for a better system - which is easily in reach.
Going to convert the 79 Cordoba away from lean burn. But I bought a Chrysler DC kit. Hmmm. Wondering if I should go a different route.
I don’t mind that kit. And if you already have it, it’s fine. Just keep a spare module handy. I think I had planned Mopar electronic for the 300 and even have a harness, but the Pertronix was much faster and easier.
I think this is a 2 beer n 2 corn dog as I watch several times 😂😂
It is a good kit. I am guessing you will add vacuum advance to a car that did not have it from the factory. Be careful where you hook it up. I like 79 Cordoba 300's and 78-79 Magnums.
Can you check one thing for me? Does the control box (orange?) have a part number? (P something 505) Does it have a transistor with writing on it or is it a dummy dome like the one on the silver box in this video? I have heard Mopar is now selling the cheap ones with their kits. When did you buy the kit?
Actually the vacuum advance is hooked to the Lean Burn control box. I see no reason to use a different port and just run a hose to the distributor rather than the box. I will check on the kit as you asked and get back to you. Got the kit on evil bay about 3 years ago...Actually for a different project and the lean burn is still functioning on the Cordoba.
@@beljames1563 There must have been two generations of lean burn. Well, ok, we already know there were at least a couple versions with different wiring. Haha. But I am used to seeing the dual pickup distributor with no vacuum advance. Didn't know some years had vacuum.
i really hated to do it but i installed the HEI dist they make for a 318 into my 1966 D500 works great just try not to think about it
I will. Haha. I meant to discuss those in this video but it slipped my mind. They don't look like they belong there, but they really do work well. It's hard to argue with.
In theory, could you achieve multiple spark with a twin tipped rotor?
Or, a reluctor wheel with multiple peaks?
I don’t think either of things will do what you want. And - the MSD only gives multiple sparks at low RPM. I don’t know that it’s even worth much.
Can you provide more details on the pull-up resistor needed for implementing this on a points distributor?
Well, not really. I haven't ever done that myself. But here is a link to a diagram: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/hei-jpg.2926295/
@@DeadDodgeGarage thank you for this!
You Can buy pigtails with the gm connectors for those modules for a couple bucks
Yep. I never do and didn’t think to mention it. Haha.
I have two pickups in my distributor how do I wire that
You get a different distributor. That two pickup unit has no timing curve and no vacuum advance, which isn’t what you want - unless this is an all out race build and you actually want the timing locked out, maybe.
It might be a stupid question, but can I do this with a slant six?
Yes! I’ve done that several times.
here in France lots of 70's SIMCA cars, kind of Chrysler-France ( Dodge Omni, SIMCA 1307, Horizon etc etc ) runs theses 4 and 5 pins modules ECU with all kinds of distributors, Bosch, Ducellier, SEV, all 4 cylinders we never cared of the module colors ( I didn't even knew and learned here about thoses... colors THANKS ! fun you can also hide the HEI inside the original ECU...
I donnot understand why/how get rid of the Ballast resistance ... because without ballast a 0.3 Ohms coil is ... 13V/0.3Ohms = 43 Amperes comsumption ... even with 0.7 dwell it makes 30 Amperes wich is the production of my small generator 😮💨 excuse me I am bloqué ( stucked) on this issue I visited the website saw that but no explainaition about coil's consumption.... ?? please ! help, is the HEI miraculous regarding hawfull ballast wiring also ?
at the moment instaling an SEV-chrysler electronic distributor in a SIMCA 1000 4cyl 1971 instead of points. have just the proper distributor a new ECU ( 5 pin) and Wonder about HEI ... 1.6 Ohms coil would be enought ( engine 7000+ RPM only 4 cyl)
What if you have the less than awesome 1987 D150 with a lean burn 318
I highly recommend deleting that ASAP. Haha. You can use all of the same components I specify here - a factory electronic distributor, an HEI module, and a performance coil. The only thing I’m not totally clear on is the ignition power source you’ll want to use in that application. As I understand, the ignition resistor moved inside the lean burn modules in later years. You will most likely want to find the power feed wire for the lean burn computer and use that. Given that those carbs generally use electronic controls, I’m assuming you will be changing that too.
I have purchased three icm then i did this conversion. Now i have purchased 3 hei. What am i doing wrong.
Truck runs great for a while, then loses power studders, then wont start
Hmmm… what kind of voltage is getting to the ignition modules? What kind of shape is your distributor in? Do you have a firewall ground strap in place?
@DeadDodgeGarage was 12v then I realized the MSD blaster 2 should be ran through a ballast. Now it is. Runs better now but low RPM 600-700 misses. 2k runs smooth.
Dist is less than 5kmiles. Yes extra ground strap
Boy if that aint a knock-off of a 4-wire 2nd gen GM ignition module!!!
Well… yeah!
Here is my question, I think I have too many parts .
All I need is distributor, module and wire .
I don’t need the ecu box or the starter relay or ballast resistor.
I have a 12v coil.
Rebuilding a 1985 dodge d150
Any guidance would be appreciated 😁
No matter what you do, you still need your starter relay… Are you converting this truck from lean burn? Or does it have regular electronic ignition now? If you are doing this HEI conversion, you need the electronic distributor, the HEI module, and some wiring to connect everything and eliminate the ballast resistor. You won’t need whatever factory ignition module or “ECU” it had originally.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I’m converting to lean burn with a American auto wire universal kit. Manual fuel pump and carbureted. I was confused with some of the differences.
So I wanted to make sure I didn’t bead the ( electronic control box and ballast resistor voltage regulator)
Voltage regulator cause no start issue before.
This is from original wiring .
Currently on my truck for the starter system.. I have correct distributor, gm module , starter relay ,voltage regulator . Also According to Hayes and the factory manual my ignition wiring colors do not match anything (but I think I have this figured out )
Want to convert a 1959 Nash Metropolitan 4 cylinder, can that Dist be converted???
You can trigger the HEI module with the original points if you want. It removes the actual load of triggering the ignition from the points, and they should live forever!
Hi Jamie the Great! I left an informative reply on your ballast resistor video. Did you read it???
I sure did. I think I started crafting a response, then saw something shiny…
Hah! I'm putting that in my list of your top ten funniest replies! Did you read this???@@DeadDodgeGarage
man i need that diagram posted somewhere i can print it off. also do you have one to help with adding a gm alt? want to get to a internal regulator.
Those diagrams are available online, just hop on the Google image search.
@@DeadDodgeGarage i am and getting a lot of not clear info. ill keep looking
@@DeadDodgeGarage found a good one.
Either 10 times better than the lean Burn System that Chrysler came up with that thing was freaking horrible
I got a 92 jeep the wipers kept going on so i removed the balast resistor under the radio; now got no wipers ; car starts fine;
Need to spray a 01 on it
On what? The HEI module?
I used to rob all the wiring harnesses I could get from 6 cyl's. Long wires. The HEI trick is easier cheaper and better, so well....
👍🏻💯🇦🇺⛽️
First one in today.
Nailed it!
Just one more GM innovation.
Chrysler had electronic on the market first - but GM turned the wick up. 🙂
@DeadDodgeGarage That's wierd. GM had transistor electronic ignition K66 in 1964. 7 years before Chrysler's cease fire electronic box was offered.
Fords were a lot worse years ago, I had a 1980 F100 pickup a long time ago, my daily driver it was almost new so I was making payment, had the big aluminum module, they would go bad at the worst times, and very often, I replaced it over 10 times, kept a spare in the glove box, was reading Car Craft magazine one day, they had the diagram to use an hei, it worked great for 15 years and was not even a new one when installed
Fords used the "dura spark" systems which were horrible. For some sick reason you would either get a 70s-80s Ford vehicle that would go for literally 15-20 years on the original ignition box with zero issues or you would be unlucky and get a vehicle that would fry the ignition box every few months for no rhyme or reason. It also didn't help that the replacement boxes are usually of very low quality and the high under hood temps are usually what takes out the ignition box and the ford wiring of that era was terrible quality and would fall apart and the grease in the connectors would get hard and cause connection problems. Sometimes the distributor pick ups could go out but 9 times out of 10 it's the durapsark box. I have seen many of those boxes be bad right out of the box or only last a few days, with those old Ford's going to an hei ignition or MSD or equivalent ignition box is a much more reliable and better choice.
Yeah but that's pretty easy all you have to do is go down on your starter solenoid and run a wire from there to your coil very simple fix
That’s not a thing on Chrysler stuff… have to use the ignition 2 feed.
GM has rescued several other car brands with various parts and pieces. Large scale has a long reach.
Yep. I’m definitely not above using their better parts in cases that make sense.
@DeadDodgeGarage oh, you mean like using an LS instead of a Mopar small block? 😂😂😂
Kidding! Seriously though, after watching your recent video on Mopar engines I was reminded that the small block bottom end was more or less designed in the mid 1950s. Top end redesigned in 1964, then add roller cams in the 80s, then finally change the valvetrain design in 1993. And that lasted until 2003. Bloody amazing the original engineering on those things. If only Chrysler could have gotten their build quality dialed in like that, they would have been super successful for the long haul. Not just a few years at a time, like you pointed out in the engine video.
"I'm not even wearing👖 "
I was asleep, my bad.
Classic… me too, that’s why the video is so late. Had to catch up on sleep from the excitement of the night before.
Any of the new manufactured HEI modules are garbage if you want reliability go to the junkyard and find one from 74 to 80 General Motors car
I did neglect to cover this in the video. I haven’t had a bunch of failures with them like the Mopar units, but I’ve had a couple. Definitely want to go for the best quality module you can.
Take care of yourself and stop 🛑 picking up B/RB blocks.
These HEI modules suck. I’ve tried all of them. ACCEL, AC Delco (stock and performance) Davis and MSD. Did the conversion on my Mopar dizzy. There’s a guy that makes a mount for under the Mopar distributor. Never again. I knew better, my first few muscle cars in the 90s were GM, tried HEI of various brands back then. Same result.
Orange and Chrome box have been great. Never had one fail. But haven’t used one in 15 yrs either. I hear they aren’t what they used to be. I’ve been using old school MSD 6AL boxes for yrs (not the digital) and never have an issue.
MSD is great. I have not gotten that result - in fact, exactly the opposite, as discussed here. But your mileage clearly may vary.
Chry ign modules last a long time. Ones made these days by napa,autozone ect are junk.
Some do, but incidentally, I’ve had many old black Chrysler boxes fail.
I didn't the good lord himself richard petty to bless all my ballast resistors to stop using classic ignition systems. They might not be the main cause but that's where the ghosts leak out from
Haaahaha. They certainly do at times.
I used to rescue my buddies with chevys with my car hauler and my dodge.
I've never had anything fail in my 61 years.
Gm junk don't belong on mopars.
Lucky you. I’ve only been at this 16 years now, and I have lost many of these modules. Hell, I’ve removed and thrown several of them on this channel.
I don't think im lucky, just not as dumb as you.
Pants are highly overrated.