i love that you are taking apart the second stage on camera. I love understanding how my equipment works, and rather than me opening it up and breaking things, I can see how to do it without damaging any of my equipment. Thank you Alec.
One of the best how-to videos I've seen on UA-cam. Very well done and well presented. I would probably have recommended using the butt end of the toothbrush to push the diaphragm into place rather than a screwdriver but only because some people don't have such a gentle touch with a screwdriver! Very interesting info. Thanks. I'm going to check out the rest of your videos, too.
I need a list of newer secound stages that are piston and balanced only love your tech tips watching this channel has already help me be a better driver and I've been diving since 88
To shop around try Googling this "scuba second stage piston balanced" and under Tools, change the Time to 'past year' to be current. There are several good reg makers so shop and compare features, price, service availability (local dive shop or mail in). Good luck Rosco.
DGX Xtra by Deep6 is brand new. Affordable, parts are available from the company, and Deep6 is run by the guy who used to run HOG, so there's good technical diving rep.
Thank you Alec. I have a second stage acting up that I need to looking into. Often I am in a remote area searching in the muck for lost items and nowhere near a scuba shop. If my gear goes down I need to know how to at least fix the simple stuff.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter After watching your video I disassembled the 2nd stage and Wow. It was full of debris. I cleaned it all out and it's back up and running. Thanks again.
Hi Alec, great videos. I have a regulator marked 'Conshelf 20 Aqua-Lung' I bought it in 85-ish. It is blue and circular fronted with holes.I haven't used it much and it is immaculate. I can't really get anyone to service it, they want me to "buy a new one". I can understand shops wanting to make sales, but this is a really attractive piece of kit. I had the unit serviced 2 years ago and have only used twice since. This year again, I am finding it very difficult in UK to get anyone to service it. It looks ok from the outside and the diaphragm looks nice and flexible and clear. It doesn't seem to have a locking-pin, but has a hexagonal bolt with a torque setting indicator on the side. I have bought a service kit and am very practical. What is the hex bolt all about? The blue front of the reg just has holes in a circular pattern and following this vid I was thinking of twisting it - as it is that old style regulator - then it occurred that the hex bolt might be in place of the locking-pin?
Ok. I can help. Nice reg by the way. It's a classic. 1. The front comes off simply by turning counterclockwise. It may be tight. Don't put anything into the holes to help since the plastic will break. Soak it in hot soapy water. That may help. Wear rubber or leather gloves to grasp. Get someone else to hold the body. Work at it. It will come off. Then you need to clean the threads well and lube them. Don't overtighten when you put it back on. 2. The hex hole on the side is for adjusting the spring pressure. It comes out as well with a large hex wrench. I forget what size. You don't really need to remove it and it takes a special tool to make the adjustment from there anyway. If you do remove it, it is O-Ring sealed. Clean, lube and re-install. 3. The 2nd stage uses all standard O-Rings that you can get at any dive shop or a plumbers supply. The only thing you need is a 2nd stage low-pressure seat. It costs about $1.00. Contact me at seahunter@vintagescuba.com and I'll tell you where to get it. 4. the 1st stage is a different matter. It's not hard to service but the HP seat may be hard to find over there. If it is working, I'd leave it alone. Check the color of the filter under the dust cap. It should be quite clean, maybe even shiny but for sure not brown with rust or green with salt corrosion. If it is, you can change it easily and they are easy to find. It's a fine, old reg and there's no reason not to use. Most dive stores simply don't want to service old gear because they want to sell new or maybe they don't know how to do it. There may be liability issues too so don't be too hard on them. Good luck. Alec
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Thanks, Alec. That is really helpful. No doubt will be in touch re the 2nd stage low-pressure seat. Happy diving. Warm regards. Paul
Brother Alec, another VERY well presented instructional video from you! Quick question: I have read that disassembled 2nd stage parts can be cleaned by soaking in a 50% white vinegar/ 50% distilled water solution. What are your feelings on this? And secondly, you mention (for in-field care) washing 2nd stage in "soapy-water?" Are you using regular dish-washing liquid in water to do this? Thanks again very much for your awesome videos!
Vinegar is simply a weak acid, Acetic acid (NOT acetylsalicylic acid as I said in the video). In fact, vinegar that you buy is only 5-10% acid. It is good for removing anything organic and crusty, mineral deposits too. You could use vinegar straight up and it wouldn't hurt. If you see a bit of bubbling, it's working. Any soap is good so long as you rinse really well afterward. I'm a big fan of either Sunlight soap (yellow bottle) or Simple Green. They both remove any grease and, mineral deposits and crud from your mouthTake care. Alec
Hey Alec, at 4:07 did you say "don't press the purge button"? If so, what led to your change of heart prior to production of your episode: Scuba Tech Tips: Go Ahead, Push The Purge When Rinsing - S05E15
Well, Frank, in the video "Push the Purge Button" I didn't say that you SHOULD push it. Divers are often told to "never, never, ever, ever, under any circumstances push that purge or else!!". I just wanted to dispel the idea that pushing the purge is not really a big deal. Given a choice, don't push it while rinsing. But, if you do, don't call 911! Alec
Alec, any chance you can expand on this a little more with a follow up video? Specifically how to check and monitor the health of your regulators. If you acquire the correct tools, is adjusting the 2nd stage something the average dive could or should do?
With a proper second stage adjusting tool, it's quite easy. Without, it's possible but a nuisance. The tool is properly called a "Dual Drive In-line Adjusting Tool" and costs about $100. You must get the model with the IP Gauge (Intermediate Pressure Gauge) so you know that the 1st stage is working properly too. Should you do it?? I suppose there's no harm. It it works you're a hero. If not, your local dive store will love you! Take care. Alec
Hi Alec. Just one note, why you aware from pressing the lever?. I think that was well set in your other video that, while the rubber cap or plug are in place in the first stage, there is no chance for the water to came in through the second stage. Thank you for your videos and for give us technical reason instead of myth or "i heard it to a friend of a friend".
You are quite right Fran. If the dust cap is clean and in place, no water can enter the reg from either the first stage or the second stage. I'm not suggesting that you should press the purge while rinsing. I'm just saying it's not the big NO-NO that some people make it out to be. You don't need to panic if the purge got pressed. Some instructors or divers make pressing the urge while rinsing as evil as holding your breath!! Take care. Alec
Alec, thanks for taking your time answering me. Wen i start seeing your report about that i immediately remember all those times when somebody say a inflexible NO about purge the second stage. Again, thank for showing us how to maintain our equipment and for gives good guides without taking part of a manufacturer or system type. Take care you too. Fran.
Sometimes I see O-rings leak from where the hose goes into various components including the first stage. Can we safely just disconnect a hose to put a fresh O-ring on a first stage?
hi mr pierce , i just bought 3 us divers 2nd stages where can i get rebuild parts and the special tool for disassembly, they are old but look very tough and useable again . thanks dan
It depends on the models and year of manufacture. Aqua-Master and Royal Aqua-Masters can still be serviced or upgraded to modern parts from VintageDoubleHose.com. Having the tools is critical but also knowing how to rebuild and test it before diving is critical. It's not a hobby job, its a life support device so if you are not a service tech, get a pro to do right. Suggest starting at VintageDoubleHose.com web site and learn about your model then get parts or send it to Bryan to do it. Watch this video on Kevin's 1973 Aqua-Master upgrade to a high performance model, S08E06 Diving A Vintage Regulator. Hope this helps get you started.
Hey, Alec, have you ever serviced a second stage that doesn't have a front cover that unscrews? Mine isn't round, and it doesn't appear that it unscrews to take off. I don't really want to go messing with it for fear that I break something; any advice?
If self servicing it, Google the make / model for the tech service manual to see exactly how it comes off without breaking it. Some have screws, plugs, locking pin or just screw off. If it doubt, take it to your local dive shop and ask to see him do it. You still need parts from the LDS but try this.
Hey Alec love the videos. I'm new in the sport, and have been wondering, if a LDS doesn't service the specific brand regulator you may purchase, say from the Internet, what can you do to service it? thanks again. tim
That can be a problem. It's not just getting service. It's getting proper service using proper parts and proper tools. If your LDS is not a dealer for that brand, they may not be able to get the parts and tools and may not have received the proper factory training for that brand. At my dive shop, we took in any make/model but, we would then take any brands for which we were not authorized dealers to a local shop that was authorized. I had a good reputation with all dive shops and an arrangement whereby they would service the gear and give us a 15% discount. We then returned it to the customer and charged normal prices. We made 15% for doing almost nothing, the other dealer got some business and the diver got proper service - win,win,win! And, perhaps most important to me, my store got a reputation for giving good service to everything. Many customers had no idea of the arrangement. All they know is that they were happy with us. So for you I suggest, Step 1, show your dealer this message and see if he doesn't see the value of the above and do the same or, Step 2, with the help of the manufacturer find a local dealer of your brand or, Step 3, there are businesses that accept regulators for service by mail or, Step 4 (and the least attractive), service it yourself if you are mechanically inclined. Parts and service manuals are available on-line for most brands. Please do NOT tell people that I told you to service your own gear. I do NOT think that's a good idea. Many scuba service people attempt to service all brands whether they are authorized dealers or not. Wrong! 1. Contrary to common belief, all regulators are NOT the same. No more than a Toyota is the same as a Ford. 2. Its often critical to use proper tools and proper parts. While an O-Ring may be an O-Ring (and that's not always true - there's a lot more to O-Rings than just proper size), many parts are brand and/or model specific. 3. Factory training and service procedures are important too. IP's vary from 110 psi to 160 psi, torque values on assembly of components are critical, lever heights can affect performance, proper lubrication (or no lubrication of some parts) is important - there's a lot more to servicing a reg than disassembly and assembly. 4. While the diver's safety ought to be uppermost in a dealer's mind, he must also consider liability. In the event of an accident, the diver's gear will be examined in minute detail. If an unauthorized dealer performed service, he could be in real trouble, even if that service was not a direct contributor to the accident! At the very least he will be required to defend himself in a lawsuit which costs money even if dismissed. And his business will suffer. The best choice then is to go to your LDS, explain the situation, show him this message and see if he can't help. I'm assuming he wants to keep you and all local divers happy and saying good things about his shop. I'm assuming he doesn't want divers telling others to go somewhere else. I'm tired of dive store owners who say that they won't service gear not bought from them or bought on-line. It's 2017 for gosh sakes! On-line is not going away, in fact, it's getting bigger every day. Dive stores are in an enviable position in that many services they offer, training, service, air fills, local dives, pool nights, etc, are not available on line. They must take advantage of that advantage! This is a long reply but only because it's a pet peeve. I hope this helps Alec
To be certified on a manufacturers product line, e.g. Sherwood, Scubapro, etc, you must take their factory approved course, + tools. That's the easy bit, getting a job at a LDS or starting a home service (if no LDS's around) and getting enough business to cover your costs is causes service tech's to loose their hair! The more product lines your certified for the better your odds of being taken on but its still long hours, your must be very particular to details plus educate divers sometimes on the abuse they give their gear then expect it fixed for zero cost. My suggestion is to visit your LDS, ask to assist or apprentice while taking your first factor courses and work on more and more certs. A LDS can use 1 primary and a backup (for vacation etc). so see if you really like it before investing big bucks and time. Hope my rant helps Scuba Bro and thanks for watching.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter , that’s great thanks. I’m an electrical engineer by day and was actually looking at helping out a local dive shop to appease my love of all things scuba. I’ll ask them and go from there! Thanks for the helpful guidance :-)
Hey Alec, just bought a Dacor H.U.B bcd with Viper Tec 2nd stage regulator, used of course. I cleaned and took apart the 2nd stage, but I forgot where the o'ring goes on the poppy seat. Does it sit just above the threads on the left or in the groove around the allen keyed adjustment knob.
I've replied to your personal email on this Mohamed. I hope that helps. Giving service information is easiest by private email since the messages can get quite long. Alec
1 take!! Kevin and many others will verify that I do these vids in a single take. Sometimes we have to cut and paste or add some script to clarify or even amend something I've said, but the actual videos are done in a single take Widget. The reasons are simple: 1. without sounding pretentious, I can usually introduce, cover and summarize the topic without stopping to review any notes. 2. I can't read notes without my glasses so they'd be of no use. 3. I get bored very easily so probably couldn't stand to do the same video twice. 4. Even if the topic was the same, a second take would be completely different from the first. This is just me sharing my ideas and they often come into my head as I'm talking. I couldn't do the same video twice if I was paid to do so. I hope you're enjoying them and getting some ideas. Take care. Alec
Assuming you are referring to the 2nd stage cover, the only real source is your LDS who can order one from the manufacturer. It's not likely an LDS will have one in stock. I hope this is what you mean. Take care. Alec
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Hi Alec, thank you for your answer; What is LSD? Yes 2nd stqge. XS Scuba have them but don't ship outside of the US. I live in Japan.
LDS means Local Dive Store. That's different from LSD which I believe is a Beatles song - something about Lucy! XS Scuba is a supplier. They only sell to dive stores. Either your LDS can order from them or contact a US dive store to order it and send it to you. Good luck. Alec
The exhaust valve is a fussy device and will often act up. Sometimes, if you've not used your regulator for a while, the exhaust will stick shut and you can't exhale. The thin rubber exhaust valve has simply stuck to the hard body of the second stage. With the newer silicon valves this is less common. Weird noises are another way the exhaust valve lets you know that it's not happy. Sometimes if you exhale slowly, the exhaust will sound like a long, slow burp. It's just having trouble deciding if you want to exhale or not. It doesn't want to open any more than necessary so it opens then closes and then re-opens and then closes again and so on, all the while emitting burping sounds or, if underwater, gurgling sounds. Try making your exhalations deliberate and strong. I think that will eliminate the weird sounds. You won't breath this way normally but at least you know the valve is OK. Hope this helps. Alec
It's exactly the same Michael. Opening the s560 is a bit tricky. Look for a tiny lock on one side of the housing, usually the hose side. Loosen that and it will unscrew. Good luck. Alec
Hi Alec, I have a Scubapro C350 2nd stage and one time I got rolled over by a massive wave which made me fall on the sandy beach and got a lot of sand on all of my gears. I tried cleaning all of it (BC and everything) and I don't have any problem, except for my 2nd stage. I tried using it again for another dive, it works well, except that the venturi level become hard to turn. After that last dive, I tried turning it on and off on the surface, but it's really hard and tough, when I turn I hear like some soft sand is trapped in it. Is it possible to solve this problem by dismantling it like this video? Or is it better off for me to go to the Scubapro service shop? Or any tip to solve this problem? It's not dangerous to dive with it is it? Thanks Alec.
The C350 is not the easiest 2nd to dismantle, clean and re-assemble. Then you need to tune it for best breathing too. In this case, I suggest a trip to the dive store is a good idea. You have undoubtedly got some sand or grit into the venturi stem, and probably other places too. Take care. Alec
Hi there, I just bought 2 Dacor xle pacer regulators and a couple aqualung bcd's of the same vintage. None of the equipment has been used in a couple years and I was wondering what kind of service the regulators and the bcd's need to go through in order to dive again or if they will ever be serviceable. Will the dive shop be able to get parts for the reg's or are they just gonna tell me to buy a new one? I'm on a pretty tight budget so I'm hoping to be able to work with what I've got. Thanks in advance.
I'm afraid I've got bad news. There are no parts for DACOR products. If they are in good shape a proper cleaning and adjusting might do but some models simply can't be serviced, not even cleaned, without parts - parts that aren't available. That may sound odd but to clarify, some regulators MUST have some parts replaced when they are disassembled for cleaning. The original parts will not work if reused. If your LDS is unable or unwilling to service them, get back to me. I MIGHT be able to help. The BCDs probably have CO2 cartridges to inflate them. That will have to be plugged, an easy job. Otherwise again it may be possible to clean them and get the in good working order. If they use the older style USD (Aqua-Lung) female inflate hose, they are not usable. If you're on a budget, you should be able to get a new regulator system (reg/octo/SPG) with a new BCD for less than $600. By the time you get and service a used system you will be close to that with no warranty and still old stuff. Good luck. Alec
Alec, I know you don't like to promote brands, but I've been reading that some regulators are more costly to service than others. I guess it is the cost of materials and extra labor. Is there and easy way o find out which regulators are expensive to service?
Tough. Dealers might be reluctant to tell you the cost of service kits. But pressure your LDS a bit. There's no good reason not to. It is a genuine concern for divers and buyers. Kits for economical models (think Sherwood Brut, Oceanic SP6, Scubapro Mk2) are pretty cheap, maybe $20. However, more sophisticated models can be a lot more. The service kit for a Scubapro MK11 1st stage only is almost $100! Atomic and Mares seem to cost a lot too. Mares has a service kit but they do not include trhe HP seat which must be changed each time. It's an extra $30! Basic labor charge for complete service is about $100. That includes (or should include!) a complete disassemble and rebuild of the 1st, 2nd and Safe Second plus a check of the BC Quick Detach inflator, the SPG swivel and all hose ends. Basically the entire regulator and everything attached to it should be examined and renewed if necessary. The brands that include Free Parts for Life are well worth considering. Many models now require service only every 2 years rather than 1 year which was the most common so that's worth looking for too. A small point that's worth thinking about is that there is darn little difference between brands. Regardless of what dealers say and how passionate a diver may be about HIS regulator, reg models of the same level of features are virtually the same other than materials and exterior design. And, to the dismay of many divers reading this, I am referring to the perfomance of the regulator. So the Sherwwod SR2 is almost identical to the Scubapro MK25 but it's sealed and has Free Parts and a 2 year service period. So don't get too hung up on the make and model regardless of what your tech instructor says. See what your LDS sells and services because a source for parts, service and advice is probably more important that chrome! Apeks is no better than several other brands that are less expensive to buy and maintain. And unless you want/need stainless steel (which does rust BTW), the extra cost of Atomic is wasted money. The same for Titanium. Nice and light by several ounces which the airline check-in clerk won't even notice, but 3X as expensive and costly service kits too. Lots of good information that your LDS and even the manufacturers won't share. Their job is to sell - not to give you the best possible choice that meets all your needs including cost. Alec
Wow Alec! It's amazing the knowledge that you have. Thank you so much! I just learned so much from your post as well as this video. I certainly will speak with my LDS.
Alec It does matter speaking and buying from your LDS. I spoke with mine, and the warranty, cost to service is cheaper if you but from the LDS versus online. I went with my Dive shop. It's worth the extra few bucks to have the help of a local shop. Thanks Alec!
Andrew Skeith: It's like anything else you buy. There are better options depending on what you are looking for. My LDS sells Atomic, and I really like the regulator. Is it more expensive: Yes. My LDS gives their own warranty, and yearly service in the price of a purchase at their shop. For, the cost saving for the yearly service alone made it worth it to me.
I was searching for the mk10/ r190 service info, not the weird descendant of the mk 2. patent resolved-souped up version of the us diver single stage/hybrid. The scuba-pro inventors of the "mk 10, 15, and 20" which eventually broke away from the (legal-ish crap, with no malice, ill-will, slander, or otherwise degradation of SP, affiliates nor individuals associated within this commentary in its entirety) "as perceived by the public", "alleged" hierarchal bullshit of scuba-pro and formed their own company, "ATOMIC" which were, in essence, the designers of the said designed units the original of the mk 10/ r190. the atomic company came out with 6 designs, i think, initially all based on the these units 2nd stages followed the relative same/similar pattern. A1/A2 single stage and 2 stage. Most don't know that factoid. my point is, how to obtain parts and seals for my mk10/r190?
Very common for scuba gear manufacturers to move around under different names. The reasons are varied but usually a money issue. Parts for most vintage gear are available on eBay. A good LDS will source parts for you. R190 is current. MK 10 a bit harder but not impossible. Don't settle for "No Longer In Production". That's a given and stupid to say. Good luck. Alec
No disrespect here, just inserting my experience and opinion. I have been diving for over 40 years. At least 80 dives a year. I have paid for 2 regulator service charge in my whole life. First one I was talked into it and it was a fail. Not sure why I did the second one. My reg for last 10 years plus is a Scuba Pro S600T and MK25T , actually I have a few of them. I have never serviced any of them, not once. After a 10 day dive trip I just wash it and squirt a little salt away into both stages. Let it dry and put in a bag and keep in a dry place. I always bring a backup with me just in case and rebuilding kit I never used. You say once a year or even 2 times a year. I could buy a new one and be ahead of the game right now, I don't trust any service place, no one would be more careful than myself or better than factory that builds them. I have checked them with a Intermediate Pressure Gauge and check to be sure they breath within 125-140 and adjust if not. I guess if you can't adjust then maybe time for new parts. A spring maybe. Leaving for Indonesia again in a few months. Bringing same reg and same spare.
Actually, service period is every 2 years for most modern regs. It sounds like you've had incredible luck with your regulators. The MK26/S600 is a very dependable regulator for sure. However, everyone's experience is different and each diver has his own feelings about service needs. You sure have been fortunate. Me? I wouldn't dream of going on a $5000 dive trip without checking my regs completely even if it costs a $200. I suppose at least it means I don't need to carry a spare. Good luck and thanks for your input. Alec
LOL, would be nice if only 5k these trips.. we talk about this all the time, me and my buddy. He has same reg and is not as easy on equipment than me. One trip last year he did need an O-ring , crew had it apart and fixed between dives. He was eyeing my spare for a few minutes.
That's funny.. yea I never understood someone buying a reg that no one ever heard of. I do carry a scuba pro tool but to this date never used it. I keep saying next time. I do love the Titanium and keeping it stored out of open air I am sure makes a difference. But I do leave it all open to dry out for a week with dust cap off before I put it away till next time. Maybe next time.. :) I should add, if I had an easy place to bring them and close I would. I don't trust the places (kids) close by, (Southern CA).
Alveolar, alveopalatal, or postalveolar click. annoying.? absolutely annoying! Nervous habit, akin to "ahh, so, ehh ..." ETC. It is a method of keeping the audiences attention and actually distracts from the message being/attempting to be conveyed. Try a "pause" instead. It draws the listener back in & the spoken word holds more meaning/is more captivating.
That click is a mechanical sound coming from .... somewhere. Not from me. It is in this video only. Maybe Kev has a suggestion but it doesn't appear to be an issue. Thanks for watching. Alec
i love that you are taking apart the second stage on camera. I love understanding how my equipment works, and rather than me opening it up and breaking things, I can see how to do it without damaging any of my equipment. Thank you Alec.
Fantastic. Making the unknown clear to us noobs. Your videos and knowledge are always appreciated.!
Thanks for watching John.
Alec
You're like the Bob Ross of Scuba! I am going through all your video series. Thanks for doing this.
Glad you like them! Lots to learn and laugh at.
A.
One of the best how-to videos I've seen on UA-cam. Very well done and well presented. I would probably have recommended using the butt end of the toothbrush to push the diaphragm into place rather than a screwdriver but only because some people don't have such a gentle touch with a screwdriver! Very interesting info. Thanks. I'm going to check out the rest of your videos, too.
+oscar madison Good idea. I actually use the rounded end of a 1/4" wooden dowel. Less chance of puncturing the diaphragm - as you know.
Love these Tech Tip videos, Alec! Great information to have; thanks and keep up the great work!
Thanks for watching.
Alec
thanks Alec.. always glad to come back.
Welcome back! Lots more of this old man stories to come.
A
I need a list of newer secound stages that are piston and balanced only love your tech tips watching this channel has already help me be a better driver and I've been diving since 88
To shop around try Googling this "scuba second stage piston balanced" and under Tools, change the Time to 'past year' to be current. There are several good reg makers so shop and compare features, price, service availability (local dive shop or mail in). Good luck Rosco.
DGX Xtra by Deep6 is brand new. Affordable, parts are available from the company, and Deep6 is run by the guy who used to run HOG, so there's good technical diving rep.
Thank you Alec. I have a second stage acting up that I need to looking into. Often I am in a remote area searching in the muck for lost items and nowhere near a scuba shop. If my gear goes down I need to know how to at least fix the simple stuff.
Keep your gear and your buddies in good working order as mucky water can mess up a reg. Dive safe my friend.
A
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter After watching your video I disassembled the 2nd stage and Wow. It was full of debris. I cleaned it all out and it's back up and running. Thanks again.
Great video and thanks for showing how to do this.
That was very helpful and so easy regulator works so much better now Thanks!
Hi Alec, great videos. I have a regulator marked 'Conshelf 20 Aqua-Lung' I bought it in 85-ish. It is blue and circular fronted with holes.I haven't used it much and it is immaculate. I can't really get anyone to service it, they want me to "buy a new one". I can understand shops wanting to make sales, but this is a really attractive piece of kit. I had the unit serviced 2 years ago and have only used twice since. This year again, I am finding it very difficult in UK to get anyone to service it. It looks ok from the outside and the diaphragm looks nice and flexible and clear. It doesn't seem to have a locking-pin, but has a hexagonal bolt with a torque setting indicator on the side. I have bought a service kit and am very practical. What is the hex bolt all about? The blue front of the reg just has holes in a circular pattern and following this vid I was thinking of twisting it - as it is that old style regulator - then it occurred that the hex bolt might be in place of the locking-pin?
Ok. I can help. Nice reg by the way. It's a classic.
1. The front comes off simply by turning counterclockwise. It may be tight. Don't put anything into the holes to help since the plastic will break. Soak it in hot soapy water. That may help. Wear rubber or leather gloves to grasp. Get someone else to hold the body. Work at it. It will come off. Then you need to clean the threads well and lube them. Don't overtighten when you put it back on.
2. The hex hole on the side is for adjusting the spring pressure. It comes out as well with a large hex wrench. I forget what size.
You don't really need to remove it and it takes a special tool to make the adjustment from there anyway. If you do remove it, it is O-Ring sealed. Clean, lube and re-install.
3. The 2nd stage uses all standard O-Rings that you can get at any dive shop or a plumbers supply. The only thing you need is a 2nd stage low-pressure seat. It costs about $1.00. Contact me at seahunter@vintagescuba.com and I'll tell you where to get it.
4. the 1st stage is a different matter. It's not hard to service but the HP seat may be hard to find over there. If it is working, I'd leave it alone. Check the color of the filter under the dust cap. It should be quite clean, maybe even shiny but for sure not brown with rust or green with salt corrosion. If it is, you can change it easily and they are easy to find.
It's a fine, old reg and there's no reason not to use. Most dive stores simply don't want to service old gear because they want to sell new or maybe they don't know how to do it. There may be liability issues too so don't be too hard on them.
Good luck.
Alec
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Thanks, Alec. That is really helpful. No doubt will be in touch re the 2nd stage low-pressure seat. Happy diving. Warm regards. Paul
Another great vid. Thanks Alec!
My pleasure!
Brother Alec, another VERY well presented instructional video from you! Quick question: I have read that disassembled 2nd stage parts can be cleaned by soaking in a 50% white vinegar/ 50% distilled water solution. What are your feelings on this? And secondly, you mention (for in-field care) washing 2nd stage in "soapy-water?" Are you using regular dish-washing liquid in water to do this? Thanks again very much for your awesome videos!
Vinegar is simply a weak acid, Acetic acid (NOT acetylsalicylic acid as I said in the video). In fact, vinegar that you buy is only 5-10% acid. It is good for removing anything organic and crusty, mineral deposits too.
You could use vinegar straight up and it wouldn't hurt. If you see a bit of bubbling, it's working.
Any soap is good so long as you rinse really well afterward. I'm a big fan of either Sunlight soap (yellow bottle) or Simple Green. They both remove any grease and, mineral deposits and crud from your mouthTake care.
Alec
Great question! Thanks for asking it.
Hey Alec, at 4:07 did you say "don't press the purge button"?
If so, what led to your change of heart prior to production of your episode:
Scuba Tech Tips: Go Ahead, Push The Purge When Rinsing - S05E15
Well, Frank, in the video "Push the Purge Button" I didn't say that you SHOULD push it.
Divers are often told to "never, never, ever, ever, under any circumstances push that purge or else!!".
I just wanted to dispel the idea that pushing the purge is not really a big deal.
Given a choice, don't push it while rinsing. But, if you do, don't call 911!
Alec
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Got it, no 911.
Great question, and great answer Alec.
Alec, any chance you can expand on this a little more with a follow up video? Specifically how to check and monitor the health of your regulators. If you acquire the correct tools, is adjusting the 2nd stage something the average dive could or should do?
With a proper second stage adjusting tool, it's quite easy. Without, it's possible but a nuisance. The tool is properly called a "Dual Drive In-line Adjusting Tool" and costs about $100. You must get the model with the IP Gauge (Intermediate Pressure Gauge) so you know that the 1st stage is working properly too. Should you do it?? I suppose there's no harm. It it works you're a hero. If not, your local dive store will love you! Take care. Alec
Thanks Alec, top notch service advice! Wisdom+technical knowledge = scuba guru.
Very informative!!
Hi Alec. Just one note, why you aware from pressing the lever?. I think that was well set in your other video that, while the rubber cap or plug are in place in the first stage, there is no chance for the water to came in through the second stage. Thank you for your videos and for give us technical reason instead of myth or "i heard it to a friend of a friend".
You are quite right Fran.
If the dust cap is clean and in place, no water can enter the reg from either the first stage or the second stage.
I'm not suggesting that you should press the purge while rinsing.
I'm just saying it's not the big NO-NO that some people make it out to be. You don't need to panic if the purge got pressed.
Some instructors or divers make pressing the urge while rinsing as evil as holding your breath!!
Take care.
Alec
Alec, thanks for taking your time answering me. Wen i start seeing your report about that i immediately remember all those times when somebody say a inflexible NO about purge the second stage. Again, thank for showing us how to maintain our equipment and for gives good guides without taking part of a manufacturer or system type. Take care you too. Fran.
Sometimes I see O-rings leak from where the hose goes into various components including the first stage. Can we safely just disconnect a hose to put a fresh O-ring on a first stage?
Sure can. Watch my videos on hoses, not too tight and how to replace o-rings.
A
hi mr pierce , i just bought 3 us divers 2nd stages where can i get rebuild parts and the special tool for disassembly, they are old but look very tough and useable again . thanks dan
It depends on the models and year of manufacture. Aqua-Master and Royal Aqua-Masters can still be serviced or upgraded to modern parts from VintageDoubleHose.com. Having the tools is critical but also knowing how to rebuild and test it before diving is critical. It's not a hobby job, its a life support device so if you are not a service tech, get a pro to do right. Suggest starting at VintageDoubleHose.com web site and learn about your model then get parts or send it to Bryan to do it. Watch this video on Kevin's 1973 Aqua-Master upgrade to a high performance model, S08E06 Diving A Vintage Regulator. Hope this helps get you started.
Hey, Alec, have you ever serviced a second stage that doesn't have a front cover that unscrews? Mine isn't round, and it doesn't appear that it unscrews to take off. I don't really want to go messing with it for fear that I break something; any advice?
If self servicing it, Google the make / model for the tech service manual to see exactly how it comes off without breaking it. Some have screws, plugs, locking pin or just screw off. If it doubt, take it to your local dive shop and ask to see him do it. You still need parts from the LDS but try this.
Appreciate your tech tips. Thank you.
Thanks again Charles.
Alec
Thanks a million.
Hey Alec love the videos. I'm new in the sport, and have been wondering, if a LDS doesn't service the specific brand regulator you may purchase, say from the Internet, what can you do to service it? thanks again.
tim
That can be a problem.
It's not just getting service. It's getting proper service using proper parts and proper tools.
If your LDS is not a dealer for that brand, they may not be able to get the parts and tools and may not have received the proper factory training for that brand.
At my dive shop, we took in any make/model but, we would then take any brands for which we were not authorized dealers to a local shop that was authorized. I had a good reputation with all dive shops and an arrangement whereby they would service the gear and give us a 15% discount. We then returned it to the customer and charged normal prices. We made 15% for doing almost nothing, the other dealer got some business and the diver got proper service - win,win,win! And, perhaps most important to me, my store got a reputation for giving good service to everything. Many customers had no idea of the arrangement. All they know is that they were happy with us.
So for you I suggest, Step 1, show your dealer this message and see if he doesn't see the value of the above and do the same or, Step 2, with the help of the manufacturer find a local dealer of your brand or, Step 3, there are businesses that accept regulators for service by mail or, Step 4 (and the least attractive), service it yourself if you are mechanically inclined. Parts and service manuals are available on-line for most brands.
Please do NOT tell people that I told you to service your own gear. I do NOT think that's a good idea.
Many scuba service people attempt to service all brands whether they are authorized dealers or not. Wrong!
1. Contrary to common belief, all regulators are NOT the same. No more than a Toyota is the same as a Ford.
2. Its often critical to use proper tools and proper parts. While an O-Ring may be an O-Ring (and that's not always true - there's a lot more to O-Rings than just proper size), many parts are brand and/or model specific.
3. Factory training and service procedures are important too. IP's vary from 110 psi to 160 psi, torque values on assembly of components are critical, lever heights can affect performance, proper lubrication (or no lubrication of some parts) is important - there's a lot more to servicing a reg than disassembly and assembly.
4. While the diver's safety ought to be uppermost in a dealer's mind, he must also consider liability. In the event of an accident, the diver's gear will be examined in minute detail. If an unauthorized dealer performed service, he could be in real trouble, even if that service was not a direct contributor to the accident! At the very least he will be required to defend himself in a lawsuit which costs money even if dismissed. And his business will suffer.
The best choice then is to go to your LDS, explain the situation, show him this message and see if he can't help. I'm assuming he wants to keep you and all local divers happy and saying good things about his shop. I'm assuming he doesn't want divers telling others to go somewhere else. I'm tired of dive store owners who say that they won't service gear not bought from them or bought on-line. It's 2017 for gosh sakes! On-line is not going away, in fact, it's getting bigger every day. Dive stores are in an enviable position in that many services they offer, training, service, air fills, local dives, pool nights, etc, are not available on line. They must take advantage of that advantage!
This is a long reply but only because it's a pet peeve. I hope this helps Alec
Hey Alec, what do you have to do in terms of training to become a certified tech? How do you go about getting certified and learning ?
To be certified on a manufacturers product line, e.g. Sherwood, Scubapro, etc, you must take their factory approved course, + tools. That's the easy bit, getting a job at a LDS or starting a home service (if no LDS's around) and getting enough business to cover your costs is causes service tech's to loose their hair! The more product lines your certified for the better your odds of being taken on but its still long hours, your must be very particular to details plus educate divers sometimes on the abuse they give their gear then expect it fixed for zero cost. My suggestion is to visit your LDS, ask to assist or apprentice while taking your first factor courses and work on more and more certs. A LDS can use 1 primary and a backup (for vacation etc). so see if you really like it before investing big bucks and time. Hope my rant helps Scuba Bro and thanks for watching.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter , that’s great thanks. I’m an electrical engineer by day and was actually looking at helping out a local dive shop to appease my love of all things scuba. I’ll ask them and go from there! Thanks for the helpful guidance :-)
Very Well Said. Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
cool tips thank you
Thanks for watching.
Alec
Hey Alec, just bought a Dacor H.U.B bcd with Viper Tec 2nd stage regulator, used of course. I cleaned and took apart the 2nd stage, but I forgot where the o'ring goes on the poppy seat. Does it sit just above the threads on the left or in the groove around the allen keyed adjustment knob.
I've replied to your personal email on this Mohamed. I hope that helps.
Giving service information is easiest by private email since the messages can get quite long.
Alec
HOw many takes does this take? This had to have been scripted because no other scuba instructional video has this much professionalism in one take!
1 take!!
Kevin and many others will verify that I do these vids in a single take.
Sometimes we have to cut and paste or add some script to clarify or even amend something I've said, but the actual videos are done in a single take Widget.
The reasons are simple:
1. without sounding pretentious, I can usually introduce, cover and summarize the topic without stopping to review any notes.
2. I can't read notes without my glasses so they'd be of no use.
3. I get bored very easily so probably couldn't stand to do the same video twice.
4. Even if the topic was the same, a second take would be completely different from the first. This is just me sharing my ideas and
they often come into my head as I'm talking. I couldn't do the same video twice if I was paid to do so.
I hope you're enjoying them and getting some ideas.
Take care.
Alec
Any tip on where to get a cover? Or make one? Both my covers are gone.
Assuming you are referring to the 2nd stage cover, the only real source is your LDS who can order one from the manufacturer. It's not likely an LDS will have one in stock.
I hope this is what you mean.
Take care.
Alec
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Hi Alec, thank you for your answer; What is LSD? Yes 2nd stqge. XS Scuba have them but don't ship outside of the US. I live in Japan.
LDS means Local Dive Store. That's different from LSD which I believe is a Beatles song - something about Lucy!
XS Scuba is a supplier. They only sell to dive stores. Either your LDS can order from them or contact a US dive store to order it and send it to you.
Good luck.
Alec
Has anyone ever had a noisy buffeting from an exhaust valve in the second stage?
The exhaust valve is a fussy device and will often act up. Sometimes, if you've not used your regulator for a while, the exhaust will stick shut and you can't exhale. The thin rubber exhaust valve has simply stuck to the hard body of the second stage. With the newer silicon valves this is less common.
Weird noises are another way the exhaust valve lets you know that it's not happy. Sometimes if you exhale slowly, the exhaust will sound like a long, slow burp. It's just having trouble deciding if you want to exhale or not. It doesn't want to open any more than necessary so it opens then closes and then re-opens and then closes again and so on, all the while emitting burping sounds or, if underwater, gurgling sounds.
Try making your exhalations deliberate and strong. I think that will eliminate the weird sounds. You won't breath this way normally but at least you know the valve is OK.
Hope this helps.
Alec
Could this same cleaning / servicing be performed on a scubapro s560?
It's exactly the same Michael.
Opening the s560 is a bit tricky. Look for a tiny lock on one side of the housing, usually the hose side. Loosen that and it will unscrew.
Good luck.
Alec
Thanks for the response! this was a great video.. they are all very helpful.
Hi Alec, I have a Scubapro C350 2nd stage and one time I got rolled over by a massive wave which made me fall on the sandy beach and got a lot of sand on all of my gears. I tried cleaning all of it (BC and everything) and I don't have any problem, except for my 2nd stage. I tried using it again for another dive, it works well, except that the venturi level become hard to turn. After that last dive, I tried turning it on and off on the surface, but it's really hard and tough, when I turn I hear like some soft sand is trapped in it. Is it possible to solve this problem by dismantling it like this video? Or is it better off for me to go to the Scubapro service shop? Or any tip to solve this problem? It's not dangerous to dive with it is it? Thanks Alec.
The C350 is not the easiest 2nd to dismantle, clean and re-assemble. Then you need to tune it for best breathing too. In this case, I suggest a trip to the dive store is a good idea.
You have undoubtedly got some sand or grit into the venturi stem, and probably other places too.
Take care.
Alec
Which is better hand held computer spg or hud ( heads up display)
Hi there, I just bought 2 Dacor xle pacer regulators and a couple aqualung bcd's of the same vintage. None of the equipment has been used in a couple years and I was wondering what kind of service the regulators and the bcd's need to go through in order to dive again or if they will ever be serviceable. Will the dive shop be able to get parts for the reg's or are they just gonna tell me to buy a new one? I'm on a pretty tight budget so I'm hoping to be able to work with what I've got. Thanks in advance.
I'm afraid I've got bad news.
There are no parts for DACOR products. If they are in good shape a proper cleaning and adjusting might do but some models simply can't be serviced, not even cleaned, without parts - parts that aren't available. That may sound odd but to clarify, some regulators MUST have some parts replaced when they are disassembled for cleaning. The original parts will not work if reused.
If your LDS is unable or unwilling to service them, get back to me. I MIGHT be able to help.
The BCDs probably have CO2 cartridges to inflate them. That will have to be plugged, an easy job.
Otherwise again it may be possible to clean them and get the in good working order. If they use the older style USD (Aqua-Lung) female inflate hose, they are not usable.
If you're on a budget, you should be able to get a new regulator system (reg/octo/SPG) with a new BCD for less than $600. By the time you get and service a used system you will be close to that with no warranty and still old stuff.
Good luck.
Alec
Alec Peirce Scuba thank you
Where do you live?
Alec
Alec Peirce Scuba just outside Dallas Texas. The shop I go to is "Adventure Scuba" in Plano, Tx
Alec, I know you don't like to promote brands, but I've been reading that some regulators are more costly to service than others. I guess it is the cost of materials and extra labor. Is there and easy way o find out which regulators are expensive to service?
Tough. Dealers might be reluctant to tell you the cost of service kits. But pressure your LDS a bit. There's no good reason not to. It is a genuine concern for divers and buyers. Kits for economical models (think Sherwood Brut, Oceanic SP6, Scubapro Mk2) are pretty cheap, maybe $20. However, more sophisticated models can be a lot more. The service kit for a Scubapro MK11 1st stage only is almost $100! Atomic and Mares seem to cost a lot too. Mares has a service kit but they do not include trhe HP seat which must be changed each time. It's an extra $30! Basic labor charge for complete service is about $100. That includes (or should include!) a complete disassemble and rebuild of the 1st, 2nd and Safe Second plus a check of the BC Quick Detach inflator, the SPG swivel and all hose ends. Basically the entire regulator and everything attached to it should be examined and renewed if necessary. The brands that include Free Parts for Life are well worth considering. Many models now require service only every 2 years rather than 1 year which was the most common so that's worth looking for too. A small point that's worth thinking about is that there is darn little difference between brands. Regardless of what dealers say and how passionate a diver may be about HIS regulator, reg models of the same level of features are virtually the same other than materials and exterior design. And, to the dismay of many divers reading this, I am referring to the perfomance of the regulator. So the Sherwwod SR2 is almost identical to the Scubapro MK25 but it's sealed and has Free Parts and a 2 year service period. So don't get too hung up on the make and model regardless of what your tech instructor says. See what your LDS sells and services because a source for parts, service and advice is probably more important that chrome! Apeks is no better than several other brands that are less expensive to buy and maintain. And unless you want/need stainless steel (which does rust BTW), the extra cost of Atomic is wasted money. The same for Titanium. Nice and light by several ounces which the airline check-in clerk won't even notice, but 3X as expensive and costly service kits too. Lots of good information that your LDS and even the manufacturers won't share. Their job is to sell - not to give you the best possible choice that meets all your needs including cost. Alec
Wow Alec! It's amazing the knowledge that you have. Thank you so much! I just learned so much from your post as well as this video. I certainly will speak with my LDS.
My dive instructor told me that Atomic regulators are overpriced, both in terms of purchase cost and service cost.
Alec It does matter speaking and buying from your LDS. I spoke with mine, and the warranty, cost to service is cheaper if you but from the LDS versus online. I went with my Dive shop. It's worth the extra few bucks to have the help of a local shop. Thanks Alec!
Andrew Skeith: It's like anything else you buy. There are better options depending on what you are looking for. My LDS sells Atomic, and I really like the regulator. Is it more expensive: Yes. My LDS gives their own warranty, and yearly service in the price of a purchase at their shop. For, the cost saving for the yearly service alone made it worth it to me.
If that was a Scubapro medium tensile "polymer cleaning tool," it would cost $25 and only be available at authorized dealers 😂 😂 😂
It might be!
A
hi i love your video thabks
Thanks and thanks for watching.
I hope you pick up some good ideas.
Alec
In those days we didn't have octopuses...well we did but we ate them 😂
Very tasty too.
A
I was searching for the mk10/ r190 service info, not the weird descendant of the mk 2. patent resolved-souped up version of the us diver single stage/hybrid.
The scuba-pro inventors of the "mk 10, 15, and 20" which eventually broke away from the (legal-ish crap, with no malice, ill-will, slander, or otherwise degradation of SP, affiliates nor individuals associated within this commentary in its entirety)
"as perceived by the public", "alleged" hierarchal bullshit of scuba-pro and formed their own company, "ATOMIC" which were, in essence, the designers of the said designed units the original of the mk 10/ r190. the atomic company came out with 6 designs, i think, initially all based on the these units 2nd stages followed the relative same/similar pattern. A1/A2 single stage and 2 stage.
Most don't know that factoid.
my point is, how to obtain parts and seals for my mk10/r190?
Very common for scuba gear manufacturers to move around under different names. The reasons are varied but usually a money issue.
Parts for most vintage gear are available on eBay.
A good LDS will source parts for you. R190 is current. MK 10 a bit harder but not impossible.
Don't settle for "No Longer In Production". That's a given and stupid to say.
Good luck.
Alec
No disrespect here, just inserting my experience and opinion. I have been diving for over 40 years. At least 80 dives a year. I have paid for 2 regulator service charge in my whole life. First one I was talked into it and it was a fail. Not sure why I did the second one. My reg for last 10 years plus is a Scuba Pro S600T and MK25T , actually I have a few of them. I have never serviced any of them, not once. After a 10 day dive trip I just wash it and squirt a little salt away into both stages. Let it dry and put in a bag and keep in a dry place. I always bring a backup with me just in case and rebuilding kit I never used. You say once a year or even 2 times a year. I could buy a new one and be ahead of the game right now, I don't trust any service place, no one would be more careful than myself or better than factory that builds them. I have checked them with a Intermediate Pressure Gauge and check to be sure they breath within 125-140 and adjust if not. I guess if you can't adjust then maybe time for new parts. A spring maybe. Leaving for Indonesia again in a few months. Bringing same reg and same spare.
Actually, service period is every 2 years for most modern regs.
It sounds like you've had incredible luck with your regulators. The MK26/S600 is a very dependable regulator for sure.
However, everyone's experience is different and each diver has his own feelings about service needs.
You sure have been fortunate.
Me? I wouldn't dream of going on a $5000 dive trip without checking my regs completely even if it costs a $200. I suppose at least it means I don't need to carry a spare.
Good luck and thanks for your input.
Alec
LOL, would be nice if only 5k these trips.. we talk about this all the time, me and my buddy. He has same reg and is not as easy on equipment than me. One trip last year he did need an O-ring , crew had it apart and fixed between dives. He was eyeing my spare for a few minutes.
That's another good reason to stick with good brand names. You can usually get service anywhere.
No so easy with Joe Diver Acme #2 regulator.
Alec
That's funny.. yea I never understood someone buying a reg that no one ever heard of. I do carry a scuba pro tool but to this date never used it. I keep saying next time. I do love the Titanium and keeping it stored out of open air I am sure makes a difference. But I do leave it all open to dry out for a week with dust cap off before I put it away till next time. Maybe next time.. :) I should add, if I had an easy place to bring them and close I would. I don't trust the places (kids) close by, (Southern CA).
The tit is very expensive but one small benefit is that it tends to shed some salt.
Maybe that's partly why you've had so few problems.
Alec
🇬🇧🏴👌
Thank you.
A
It's a plastic piece of junk😂😂😂😂 get a nice chromed Dacor Olympic 400 for class and ever lasting toughness!
I love chrome too but ............ it's 2019. That 'plastic' is the same stuff used to make a steering wheel. It's indestructible.
Alec
Alveolar, alveopalatal, or postalveolar click.
annoying.?
absolutely annoying!
Nervous habit, akin to "ahh, so, ehh ..." ETC.
It is a method of keeping the audiences
attention and actually distracts from the
message being/attempting to be conveyed.
Try a "pause" instead. It draws the listener
back in & the spoken word holds more
meaning/is more captivating.
That click is a mechanical sound coming from .... somewhere. Not from me.
It is in this video only.
Maybe Kev has a suggestion but it doesn't appear to be an issue.
Thanks for watching.
Alec