I was Certified OW Aug 2023. Bought my own set of Genesis Prana Regs. Used them for the first time during a Lake Cleanup. Dropped my gear in the bathtub when I got home later that day. Hung the Regs up with the hose facing down. Later I attached my Tank and Purged any water from the Lines. Including BCD.
I totally agree with putting the reg in water. I have been cleaning my 1st stage with all the 2nds and I leave them overnight in good water. I have been doing so for more than 4 years and I never had an issue. I have had my regs service every year and my guy never has to replace o rings like he does with other customers' equipment. There was not one time that water came in even into the second stage. I hang them to dry and next dive they are 100% great. I use soap at times and some vinegar as well to knock off any possibility of rust on my metal. So I 1000% say yes to putting the regulators in water. Thank you,
Don't follow any of these recommendations. You're going to ruin your regulator. * Do NOT press the purge button when the 2nd stage is submerged and the system is not pressurized. Yeah, the water won't go (much) above the water level, but now you've got water in the hose, and that's not going to come out on its own. When you raise the 2nd stage above the water, the water that's in the hose is going to run down to your 1st stage. Any water left in that hose will eventually become water vapor, and get everywhere in your system. * Do NOT use a hose to clean your 2nd stage on the inside when the system is not pressurized. There's water pressure coming from that hose that can force valves to open. * Do NOT rely on, or assume there is an automatic closure device on your 1st stage. Most regulators don't have one, so submerging your 1st stage is a colossally stupid idea. And even when it does have one, it's designed to keep dust and droplets out. It's not designed to keep water out when you submerge it. It may keep the water out at first, but when that o-ring starts to deteriorate, it no longer will. You CAN remove the front cover off of the 2nd stage and take out the diaphragm, to thoroughly clean the inside of the second stage. This part of the regulator is designed to be user serviceable. This way you can remove dirt and nasties from your regs. Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using or cleaning your regulators. Don't assume the manufacturer is lying to you because someone on the internet told you so.
Hello @bloodymarvelous4790, sorry to hear that you did not like our video. Nevertheless, we appreciate you watching it, and sharing your thoughts with us.
When getting a service on my reg I was told that I had corrosion in the first stage from water ingress. Tech asked if I’d ever submerged it without dust cap - no. So asked me to show him how I cleaned my reg. Submerged whole reg assembly in wash tub and then swished each 2nd stage side to side a couple of times. Tech said pressure against diaphragm could open valve, letting water into hose. Then as stored in gear bag and not hung up by 1st stage, water could have migrated up the hose into 1st stage ... causing corrosion. This tech said safest way to clean is: First stage on tank, pressurised*, Dunk 2nd stages in bucket for 5-10 seconds, remove and purge for a couple of seconds. Spray 1st stage with a hose, then work the water down the tank to clean it too. He said this also prevents the problem where when tanks are rinsed, water can end up in the throat of the valve. When tank is next filled those couple of drops of water can get blown into the tank - causing internal corrosion if it’s a steely. * Tech added: If reg has been removed from tank between dive and cleaning & if using a tank which has been to the dive site, crack the valve for a couple of seconds first before re-fitting 1st stage. This will blow out any water, sand, etc which may be in the throat of the valve - a real possibility where it’s the first tank of a double dive & the cap is left off to identify used from full. (He said out of habit & caution, he always cracks the tank valve for a second or two before fitting a 1st stage) Is this Tech prudent or has cleaning overkill?
Hello Mark Boscawen, sounds like you tech has perfected the art of cleaning a regulator. Personally, I like his method. I will vouch for him and say that he is given you some great advice.
Watching your videos is like taking a refresher course. The channel helped me understand absolute pressure and partial pressure of O2 regarding using nitrox again. After my advanced courses I lost some of the knowledge fast.
Simple absolutely someone ask me what happens if you don’t put your dust cap on a din valve? Would water get in the 1st stage? I said no because the valve isn’t open correct? Thoughts??
Hello Dive Addict, it all depends. Yes water would come into the high pressure chamber, unless the regulator had a device preventing it. Mares has the AST valve that prevents water from entering into the first stage. Now as far as it entering into the low pressure chamber, you would be correct, it would only enter in if the high pressure seat and poppet was open. We still would want to be vigilant and do everything we could to keep our regulators dry internally on the first stage. Corrosion of the filter can cause issues, and trapped moisture can prevent the first stage from being able to be disassembled for servicing. This is another reason I am not a huge fan of hose protectors, even on rubber hoses. They simply trap water and can cause corrosion. The hose protector allows more water to flow directly through than what the DIN orifice would, and yet it still causes corrosion. Now imagine the DIN orifice allowing water in, but not back out. You can see real quick how fast that corrosion starts to effect your first stage. We have a flat rate on servicing regulators here at the shop, and we charge extra for excessive amounts of corrosion. We see all different types of regulators, and we can always tell the ones that replace their dust caps prior to cleaning.
@5:18 If you pressurize the system with any amount of water in the first stage it's going to just push that water further downstream. The HP port would see the water first and wind up trapping the water in the HP hose or down into the SPG. No amount of regulator purging will get the water out of there. The dry air from the tank may absorb small amounts of moisture into it, but at some point it will condense back into liquid in your system. It seems to me a better solution, albeit temporary until the system can be properly serviced, would be remove the SPG (mind the air spool) and slightly pressurize the reg to run some air through the HP hose to blow out any water trapped in it. As for the 2nd stages and LP inflation hose, those can remain connected and purged as you mention after reconnecting the SPG.
Can you remember if my dacor viper tec you serviced a few years ago was a piston or diaphragm , and is the reg balanced? It was sent from venice fl. Thanks.
@LakeHickoryScuba Thanks I still waiting to get it wet. I thought you would be interested in a channel called Stephen Spangler on regulator geeks. It's very informative geared toward your level.
It's a solution without a problem. Don't get one. They're overpriced, non-standard, a pain to use while making a safe ascent, and require a longer hose on your primary so you can safely donate it to your buddy. Get a good regulator for your alternate instead, or use a long hose configuration if you want to donate your primary. Both a good secondary second stage and a long hose config are cheaper than an integrated safe second inflator.
Hello Brian Huff. DIN first stages typically come with a push on type cap or even a screw on metal cover. These typically are not water proof, and the likelihood of water getting into the first stage is slightly increased. The first method shown, where I simply sprayed the regulator off is typically recommend for DIN, while it is still attached to the cylinder. I dive DIN regulators when I sidemount dive, and will typically clean them while they are still attached to my cylinder.
@@LakeHickoryScuba Perfect, thanks! I was advised to carry a toothbrush to use to clean the DIN connector on the cylinder and the threads on the 1st stage recently as well to get the grime out. Appreciate the video, was very helpful.
Hello Chase Bryan, a simple submergence is not that big of deal. Hook it to a cylinder and pressure rise the system. Then hold the purge valve for a few seconds. Any moister should be dried up rather quickly.
Hello @jeremyelphick-pooley-desig4405, our pro staff purchases their shirts from Academy Sports, and we have a local embroider who do all of our embroidery.
Hello Salted H20, they do make water proof dust caps for DIN regulators, but most are not. A great option for DIN, is to leave it attached to a cylinder and pressurized while rinsing it off.
Bryan just a quick one. I did a PADI maintenance course. It was supposed to cover all kit maintenance. Frankly it was a total waste of time and money. Did not teach me anything I did not already know. This was in the UK being a former marine engineer and cleàrance diver. I expected a bit better. This SSI maintenance you recommend how does that differ from PADI maintenance course I did. If more involved then it may be worth looking at. Have had contact with both US and Canadian navies in the med and Baltic, great guys I remember. That was in the days of the JFK Nimitz class carrier if she is still around. Hope things are not to bad over there. We are still in lockdown over here. Hope it ends soon. People have had enough really.
Hello Kurt, I teach both the SSI Equipment Techniques and the PADI Equipment Specialist. In both courses we go how to properly take care of your equipment, before, during, and after a dive. We go over proper cleaning procedures and storage. We even teach minor gear repair as well. I can't speak for the training you received from your Instructor. As with any course, most agencies curriculum are going to be virtually identical, but how the Instructor conducts the course will differ.
If you thought you were going to be taught how to service your regulators you were poorly informed. These courses are not designed to make you a service technician. They will teach you how to surface clean them, properly rinse, and properly store your gear. Most of which you should already know when you're using your own gear, since it's described in the user manual. These courses are basically to make you pay to watch someone perform these actions in front of you. Pay attention when experienced divers clean their gear and you'll learn the same for free.
Hello bryan. I sent that years ago. I am now retired i served in Royal Navy as marine engineer and mine crlearance diver. We used to service our own kit. Including regulators and otherthings. I was not that impressed with padi really. Bsac was much better. I served in the Royal Navy as marine engineer and mine clearance diver. We used to service our own kit mostly. If i was in usa i may have taken you up on it. But its a lonv way to go. I am now retired, so dont dive much thesedays only now and again, if needed getting a bit to old now at 66.
What’s your thoughts on long term storage with regard to the purge seals taking on the form of the seat. I’ve heard some regulators have a latch to lift the valve off the seat, but my reg doesn’t have that.
Hello Caleb Mcelhaney, back in the day the materials that were being used for both high pressure and low pressure seats were not very duarable. Thus, companies, like Sherwood would be a great example, would design their second stage so that you could lock the Demand Valve into the open position. Now days, seats are much more reliable and durable and this is not needed. Great question though.
Finally got around to a trip to Mexico. After a week of diving and the dive shop “cleaning/storing” our gear I got home, and can see there’s a little buildup around the regulator body that’s covered up by the dust cap. Obviously you’re gona have some salt get on that as you dive, but it’s covered up by the dust cap during the long soak post trip. How do you deal with that?
Hello 71sagittarius, you can always do that, but it is not needed. We would suggest that if you keep your regulators in a bag or box, to hang them up for prolonged periods of time. This will extend the life of the hoses.
@@LakeHickoryScuba Thank you very much for taking time to answer my question. I have watched tons of your videos and really like and support your dedication to scuba diving. Great videos!
Good info. I have accidentally dropped my regs into a rinse bucket and then realized I forgot to replace the dust cap. I've heard that if water gets into the pressure gauge it can destroy it. Have you ever seen that happen? Just to be safe, I disconnected my SPG and hung it up to dry/drain, and then also connected the 1st stage to a tank and flushed air through it.
The SPG is a dead-end hose, so if you do get water in it you cannot flush it out like you can with any of the LP hoses (inflators and 2nd stages). You'd have to unscrew the SPG from the hose and then hook up the reg to pressurized air to flush the hose. Obviously if water gets all the way up the hose to the instrument it can rust the internals and make it useless. But you have to remember also that all the hoses are full of air, not vaccuum. That air will get trapped in the usually looped hose and prevent water from reaching the instrument. Also water has high surface tension, which in the narrow airway of modern SPG hoses will contribute to air being trapped in almost the full length of the hose. However, the high water tension in a needle-thin airway means that the water dropplet would act similarly to a blocked ear and interfere with accurate readings on the gauge. Also because of surface tension and the narrow airway, air-drying a hose could take a long time, the water will not drip out and there is not enough air circulation to evaporate it. But since it is extremely hard for water to get far into the hose, air drying might be enough since any water would be only at the entry of the hose.
@@KimonFrousios Thoughtful response. I was thinking among similar lines. I should mention that I did leave it hanging up to dry for a month. Just curious if anyone has actually seen an SPG get "destroyed" as the myth goes -- not from rust or corrosion but by the water itself.
Hello Lars Sveen, we have seen multiple pressure gauges take on water and become damaged. Usually this occurs from it being dropped and the lens being broken, or the o-ring wearing out allowing water in.
@@LarsSveen Take the SPG off of the hose and remove the swivel pin, take off all the IP hoses and leave the ports unplugged. Hook the 1st stage up to a cylinder, and slightly crack the valve to let pressurized air run through the ports and the HP hose. Do not open the valve fully, because that will instantly freeze your first stage. Let it run for a few seconds, close the valve, remove the 1st stage, and have it checked at your LDS.
I recently bought a MK25/S620Ti as my first regulator. I was reading through Scubapro's manual and they state to simply just rinse off the regulator and don't mention anything about soaking it. I've looked online and there appears to be a lot of debate in the past about whether you should just rinse or soak the regulator. I want to soak my regulator because I know that I still end up having crystals form on some of my gear that I don't soak, and don't want this to happen with my regulator. However, some people have stated that the dust caps won't prevent water from getting into the 1st stage. Scubapro does not mention anything about whether its safe or not to soak the 1st stage. Do you know if there is a decent risk of getting water into the 1st stage if you soak it, or will the dust caps because to prevent the water from getting in?
Hello NotTheRealMorty, pressure is the biggest variable with water getting in the first stage during the cleaning phase. Typically, the dust cap is sufficient enough to keep most of the water out if you are just dunking it in or spaying it off. One sure fire way to keep water out, yet getting a good cleaning is to leave the regulator attached to the cylinder and keep it pressurized during the cleaning phase. This is a great option if you own your own equipment.
@@LakeHickoryScuba The dust cap is never guaranteed to keep water out of your regulator when you dunk it. Never submerge your first stage when it's not pressurized. It's more likely water will get into your first stage than not.
Hello budi tran, when regulators get that much corrosion on them, we use an ultra sonic cleaner and a mixture of vinegar and water to clean them. This of course is after we disassemble them.
i dont think any water will enter any part of the hose when u purge the 2nd stage. take a straw and seal one end with a finger and then submerge the other end in water and u will notice that no water will get inside.
Hello @sergiollag1, some water can enter from the bottom due to Boyles Law, but that water can not defy gravity enough to travel all the way up the hose to the first stage.
Um... I completely agree with everything you are saying, BUT.... according to the Atomic Manual and Tech, you can not submerge the 1st and 2nd stage unless the system is pressurized. There is an orfice (i believe this is the part) that does not close when not under pressure. This is one of reasons Atomic has 3 year rebuild cycle, as they remove stress on the parts when not used. Its also whey many Tech divers do not like Atomic on stage bottles as you turn off the gas when not in use. If this is all BS, please correct me. I do not take my reg class for 6 months (thanks covid). I also sold most my Atomic and bought HOGs. 2 for 1 baby wins.
Yeah, that's because of its seat saver, which other regs don't have. People used to other regs probably often overlook that line in the Atomic manual, and do things the way they always have. If you do that by accident, though, you can blow it out. From the manual: "Avoid soaking the regulator unpressurized, as water may enter the second stage and first stage mechanism. If the second stage is purged when it is rinsed or soaked, it is a good idea to re-connect the regulator to a tank and blow out any water that may have entered the first or second stage." Atomic regs are incredible regs!
i dont think you would get that much water in the hose when you press the purge. you would need to push the air out of the hose so the water can replace it and the air really has no place to go. so i dont think you could get more than a couple drops in the hose. i actually think that when you push the purge under water you would get more water due to the back flow effect
I always keep my equipment pressurised. No need for even clean it inside. Just rinse from outside with fresh water and let it dry when still pressurised.
tu peux me raconter ce que tu veux question nettoyage, si tu n'as pas compris qu'il faut plonger avec du DIN et des chambres sèches, tu es de la loose...
Hello @pierremathonnet9591, thank you for sharing your thoughts with us. Hola @pierremathonnet9591, gracias por compartir tus pensamientos con nosotros.
I feel like Im gonna need something a little more in depth that this.. Found a regulator in a bin with some chewed up wetsuits.. The bin was half full of water, rat shit, and rats nests..
You're half right, you've believed your own myth. Even by submersing the whole system no water can enter the hose thus traveling to the first stage if the purge button is pressed while the dust cap is on! For water to enter it must displace the air and with the dust cap on the air in the hose has no where to go. The only way to get water in the hose and damage the first stage is if the purge button is pressed while being held above the first stage while under water.
@@marineboyocean It's BS. The water pressure, even if submerged for a few inches, will compress the air in the hose and allow water in beyond the valve in the second stage. Also, the dust cap isn't air tight, and air can still be displaced. Once water has passed the valve seal on your second stage, it's in the system. Even if you don't raise the second stage above the first, the water in the hose will evaporate over time and get everywhere in the system. Don't depress the purge valve when submerged if the system isn't pressurized. Best practice is to have the system pressurized when you clean it, but not everyone has a cylinder at home. Second best practice is to follow the manufacturer's instructions if the system isn't pressurized.
This is true. A lot of Instructors that are old school train their students in old school ways. I use to be one of those Instructors myself. After a while, I began to learn that with technological advancements, the old school methods were no longer needed in certain situations.
I disagree with much of what was said in this video Many divers today have air integratedavid computers Everything he taught in this video is a great way to make some money for the dive shop. Gear with integrated computers or transmitters needs to be washed under pressure or water will eventually find a way and send to your expensive electronics and destroy it
Hello Dale Brownhill, sorry to hear that you disagree with our video. Thankfully, we have had a different experience than yours. We appreciate you sharing your thoughts with us. We would encourage you to clean your equipment in the best manner as you see fit.
Even if you had the regulator assembly completely under the water as long as the dust cap is in place you have created a air lock fluid dynamics with tell you that it would have to compress the air to such a degree that the Water could make a egress into the 1st stage Rather you held the button or not. ....got to love those old timers
Great video, just what I was looking for. And Im waiting for the next "more thorough reg cleaning " video. And maybe how to fix a free flow regulator. 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻🤿
Hello andrespataky8410. I will see if we can produce a video for you on the most common reasons a regulator Free Flows. Until then, here is a quick reference guide. 1. The intermediate pressure is set too high. 2. The low pressure seat is damaged or worn out. 3. There is debris in the second stage holding the demand lever down. 4. The second stage cracking pressure is too high. 5. The second stage demand valve is frozen (cold water issues with warm water regulators). And there are several other things that can cause a Free Flow as well.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I was Certified OW Aug 2023. Bought my own set of Genesis Prana Regs. Used them for the first time during a Lake Cleanup. Dropped my gear in the bathtub when I got home later that day. Hung the Regs up with the hose facing down. Later I attached my Tank and Purged any water from the Lines. Including BCD.
Thank you for sharing your experience with us @chrisphilhower6029
I totally agree with putting the reg in water. I have been cleaning my 1st stage with all the 2nds and I leave them overnight in good water. I have been doing so for more than 4 years and I never had an issue. I have had my regs service every year and my guy never has to replace o rings like he does with other customers' equipment. There was not one time that water came in even into the second stage. I hang them to dry and next dive they are 100% great. I use soap at times and some vinegar as well to knock off any possibility of rust on my metal. So I 1000% say yes to putting the regulators in water. Thank you,
Hello @lukain1872002, thank you for sharing your experience with us. We too have never had any issues cleaning our regulators this way.
Don't follow any of these recommendations. You're going to ruin your regulator.
* Do NOT press the purge button when the 2nd stage is submerged and the system is not pressurized. Yeah, the water won't go (much) above the water level, but now you've got water in the hose, and that's not going to come out on its own. When you raise the 2nd stage above the water, the water that's in the hose is going to run down to your 1st stage. Any water left in that hose will eventually become water vapor, and get everywhere in your system.
* Do NOT use a hose to clean your 2nd stage on the inside when the system is not pressurized. There's water pressure coming from that hose that can force valves to open.
* Do NOT rely on, or assume there is an automatic closure device on your 1st stage. Most regulators don't have one, so submerging your 1st stage is a colossally stupid idea. And even when it does have one, it's designed to keep dust and droplets out. It's not designed to keep water out when you submerge it. It may keep the water out at first, but when that o-ring starts to deteriorate, it no longer will.
You CAN remove the front cover off of the 2nd stage and take out the diaphragm, to thoroughly clean the inside of the second stage. This part of the regulator is designed to be user serviceable. This way you can remove dirt and nasties from your regs.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using or cleaning your regulators. Don't assume the manufacturer is lying to you because someone on the internet told you so.
Hello @bloodymarvelous4790, sorry to hear that you did not like our video. Nevertheless, we appreciate you watching it, and sharing your thoughts with us.
When getting a service on my reg I was told that I had corrosion in the first stage from water ingress. Tech asked if I’d ever submerged it without dust cap - no. So asked me to show him how I cleaned my reg. Submerged whole reg assembly in wash tub and then swished each 2nd stage side to side a couple of times. Tech said pressure against diaphragm could open valve, letting water into hose. Then as stored in gear bag and not hung up by 1st stage, water could have migrated up the hose into 1st stage ... causing corrosion.
This tech said safest way to clean is: First stage on tank, pressurised*, Dunk 2nd stages in bucket for 5-10 seconds, remove and purge for a couple of seconds. Spray 1st stage with a hose, then work the water down the tank to clean it too.
He said this also prevents the problem where when tanks are rinsed, water can end up in the throat of the valve. When tank is next filled those couple of drops of water can get blown into the tank - causing internal corrosion if it’s a steely.
* Tech added: If reg has been removed from tank between dive and cleaning & if using a tank which has been to the dive site, crack the valve for a couple of seconds first before re-fitting 1st stage. This will blow out any water, sand, etc which may be in the throat of the valve - a real possibility where it’s the first tank of a double dive & the cap is left off to identify used from full. (He said out of habit & caution, he always cracks the tank valve for a second or two before fitting a 1st stage)
Is this Tech prudent or has cleaning overkill?
Hello Mark Boscawen, sounds like you tech has perfected the art of cleaning a regulator. Personally, I like his method. I will vouch for him and say that he is given you some great advice.
Good tips, thanks.
Thanks Alec Peirce Scuba, hope you guys are doing great up north.
Watching your videos is like taking a refresher course. The channel helped me understand absolute pressure and partial pressure of O2 regarding using nitrox again. After my advanced courses I lost some of the knowledge fast.
Glad you found our video helpful Adam Demirs.
Excellent video! Very helpful Im going to go clean them now.
Thanks Joshua Snider, glad you liked the video.
What was the name of the gear wash you mentioned?
Pau Pilau. Here is an older video we did, showing you how to use it. ua-cam.com/video/PZjLbK_lU1g/v-deo.html
Simple absolutely someone ask me what happens if you don’t put your dust cap on a din valve? Would water get in the 1st stage? I said no because the valve isn’t open correct? Thoughts??
Hello Dive Addict, it all depends. Yes water would come into the high pressure chamber, unless the regulator had a device preventing it. Mares has the AST valve that prevents water from entering into the first stage. Now as far as it entering into the low pressure chamber, you would be correct, it would only enter in if the high pressure seat and poppet was open. We still would want to be vigilant and do everything we could to keep our regulators dry internally on the first stage. Corrosion of the filter can cause issues, and trapped moisture can prevent the first stage from being able to be disassembled for servicing. This is another reason I am not a huge fan of hose protectors, even on rubber hoses. They simply trap water and can cause corrosion. The hose protector allows more water to flow directly through than what the DIN orifice would, and yet it still causes corrosion. Now imagine the DIN orifice allowing water in, but not back out. You can see real quick how fast that corrosion starts to effect your first stage. We have a flat rate on servicing regulators here at the shop, and we charge extra for excessive amounts of corrosion. We see all different types of regulators, and we can always tell the ones that replace their dust caps prior to cleaning.
@@LakeHickoryScuba How do you know if the mares 1st stage a closure device on the 1st stage? Does the mares 75xr have a closure device?
@@diveaddict6885 It should say so on the spec sheet of the regulator. If there is no mention of it, it doesn't have it.
@5:18 If you pressurize the system with any amount of water in the first stage it's going to just push that water further downstream. The HP port would see the water first and wind up trapping the water in the HP hose or down into the SPG. No amount of regulator purging will get the water out of there. The dry air from the tank may absorb small amounts of moisture into it, but at some point it will condense back into liquid in your system. It seems to me a better solution, albeit temporary until the system can be properly serviced, would be remove the SPG (mind the air spool) and slightly pressurize the reg to run some air through the HP hose to blow out any water trapped in it. As for the 2nd stages and LP inflation hose, those can remain connected and purged as you mention after reconnecting the SPG.
Thanks for sharing Nick Kafir. This is why we recommend divers seeking out a gear technician.
Can you remember if my dacor viper tec you serviced a few years ago was a piston or diaphragm , and is the reg balanced? It was sent from venice fl. Thanks.
Hello jmetyk, the first stage of your Dacor Viper is a balanced diaphragm .
@LakeHickoryScuba Thanks I still waiting to get it wet. I thought you would be interested in a channel called Stephen Spangler on regulator geeks. It's very informative geared toward your level.
I will check the channel out jmetyk, thanks for sharing.
Thanks again Brian! Have you ever done a video on the inflators that are also a safe second (Air2, SS1 etc?). I'd be interested to hear your thoughts.
Hello Bill, I haven't, but will be glad to make one for you.
It's a solution without a problem. Don't get one. They're overpriced, non-standard, a pain to use while making a safe ascent, and require a longer hose on your primary so you can safely donate it to your buddy.
Get a good regulator for your alternate instead, or use a long hose configuration if you want to donate your primary.
Both a good secondary second stage and a long hose config are cheaper than an integrated safe second inflator.
Thanks Bryan. Does this also apply for DIN 1st stages? Just keep the dust-plug in if you submerge it?
Hello Brian Huff. DIN first stages typically come with a push on type cap or even a screw on metal cover. These typically are not water proof, and the likelihood of water getting into the first stage is slightly increased. The first method shown, where I simply sprayed the regulator off is typically recommend for DIN, while it is still attached to the cylinder. I dive DIN regulators when I sidemount dive, and will typically clean them while they are still attached to my cylinder.
@@LakeHickoryScuba Perfect, thanks! I was advised to carry a toothbrush to use to clean the DIN connector on the cylinder and the threads on the 1st stage recently as well to get the grime out. Appreciate the video, was very helpful.
I accidentally submerged mine without the dust cap... and ran some water over it... only time iv’e done this... should i be worried?!?
The tooth brush is a great idea. Thanks.
Hello Chase Bryan, a simple submergence is not that big of deal. Hook it to a cylinder and pressure rise the system. Then hold the purge valve for a few seconds. Any moister should be dried up rather quickly.
More great news to help us main our equipment!
Thanks Bill Hazel, glad you liked the video.
Another great vid! And where can I get that cool shirt?
Hello @jeremyelphick-pooley-desig4405, our pro staff purchases their shirts from Academy Sports, and we have a local embroider who do all of our embroidery.
For DIN first stage are dust cap waterproof ? If I submerge my DIN first stage in water with dust cap ON, will water seep in ?
Hello Salted H20, they do make water proof dust caps for DIN regulators, but most are not. A great option for DIN, is to leave it attached to a cylinder and pressurized while rinsing it off.
Bryan just a quick one.
I did a PADI maintenance course. It was supposed to cover all kit maintenance. Frankly it was a total waste of time and money. Did not teach me anything I did not already know.
This was in the UK being a former marine engineer and cleàrance diver. I expected a bit better. This SSI maintenance you recommend how does that differ from PADI maintenance course I did. If more involved then it may be worth looking at.
Have had contact with both US and Canadian navies in the med and Baltic, great guys I remember. That was in the days of the JFK Nimitz class carrier if she is still around.
Hope things are not to bad over there. We are still in lockdown over here. Hope it ends soon. People have had enough really.
Hello Kurt, I teach both the SSI Equipment Techniques and the PADI Equipment Specialist. In both courses we go how to properly take care of your equipment, before, during, and after a dive. We go over proper cleaning procedures and storage. We even teach minor gear repair as well. I can't speak for the training you received from your Instructor. As with any course, most agencies curriculum are going to be virtually identical, but how the Instructor conducts the course will differ.
If you thought you were going to be taught how to service your regulators you were poorly informed. These courses are not designed to make you a service technician. They will teach you how to surface clean them, properly rinse, and properly store your gear. Most of which you should already know when you're using your own gear, since it's described in the user manual.
These courses are basically to make you pay to watch someone perform these actions in front of you. Pay attention when experienced divers clean their gear and you'll learn the same for free.
Hello bryan.
I sent that years ago.
I am now retired i served in Royal Navy as marine engineer and mine crlearance diver. We used to service our own kit. Including regulators and otherthings.
I was not that impressed with padi really. Bsac was much better.
I served in the Royal Navy as marine engineer and mine clearance diver. We used to service our own kit mostly.
If i was in usa i may have taken you up on it. But its a lonv way to go.
I am now retired, so dont dive much thesedays only now and again, if needed getting a bit to old now at 66.
Finally learned how to clean my gear the RIGHT way!
Glad you like the video.
Thank you !
You are welcome DanaCrosby.
What’s your thoughts on long term storage with regard to the purge seals taking on the form of the seat. I’ve heard some regulators have a latch to lift the valve off the seat, but my reg doesn’t have that.
Hello Caleb Mcelhaney, back in the day the materials that were being used for both high pressure and low pressure seats were not very duarable. Thus, companies, like Sherwood would be a great example, would design their second stage so that you could lock the Demand Valve into the open position. Now days, seats are much more reliable and durable and this is not needed. Great question though.
Finally got around to a trip to Mexico. After a week of diving and the dive shop “cleaning/storing” our gear I got home, and can see there’s a little buildup around the regulator body that’s covered up by the dust cap. Obviously you’re gona have some salt get on that as you dive, but it’s covered up by the dust cap during the long soak post trip. How do you deal with that?
What about disassembling the gear when store them off season until next year? Hoses, regulators apart.
Hello 71sagittarius, you can always do that, but it is not needed. We would suggest that if you keep your regulators in a bag or box, to hang them up for prolonged periods of time. This will extend the life of the hoses.
@@LakeHickoryScuba Thank you very much for taking time to answer my question. I have watched tons of your videos and really like and support your dedication to scuba diving. Great videos!
Good info. I have accidentally dropped my regs into a rinse bucket and then realized I forgot to replace the dust cap. I've heard that if water gets into the pressure gauge it can destroy it. Have you ever seen that happen? Just to be safe, I disconnected my SPG and hung it up to dry/drain, and then also connected the 1st stage to a tank and flushed air through it.
The SPG is a dead-end hose, so if you do get water in it you cannot flush it out like you can with any of the LP hoses (inflators and 2nd stages). You'd have to unscrew the SPG from the hose and then hook up the reg to pressurized air to flush the hose.
Obviously if water gets all the way up the hose to the instrument it can rust the internals and make it useless. But you have to remember also that all the hoses are full of air, not vaccuum. That air will get trapped in the usually looped hose and prevent water from reaching the instrument. Also water has high surface tension, which in the narrow airway of modern SPG hoses will contribute to air being trapped in almost the full length of the hose. However, the high water tension in a needle-thin airway means that the water dropplet would act similarly to a blocked ear and interfere with accurate readings on the gauge.
Also because of surface tension and the narrow airway, air-drying a hose could take a long time, the water will not drip out and there is not enough air circulation to evaporate it. But since it is extremely hard for water to get far into the hose, air drying might be enough since any water would be only at the entry of the hose.
@@KimonFrousios Thoughtful response. I was thinking among similar lines. I should mention that I did leave it hanging up to dry for a month. Just curious if anyone has actually seen an SPG get "destroyed" as the myth goes -- not from rust or corrosion but by the water itself.
Hello Lars Sveen, we have seen multiple pressure gauges take on water and become damaged. Usually this occurs from it being dropped and the lens being broken, or the o-ring wearing out allowing water in.
@@LarsSveen Take the SPG off of the hose and remove the swivel pin, take off all the IP hoses and leave the ports unplugged. Hook the 1st stage up to a cylinder, and slightly crack the valve to let pressurized air run through the ports and the HP hose. Do not open the valve fully, because that will instantly freeze your first stage.
Let it run for a few seconds, close the valve, remove the 1st stage, and have it checked at your LDS.
well put brother. solid information, clearly explained. will pass along to my students. great job selling further education too!
Thanks Mike Healy, glad you liked the video.
What exactly cleaner?
Hello Amin n, we prefer Pau Pilau Gear Cleaner.
yo can put links on the video to your other videos (i.e. how to clean reg)
You sure can Martin G. Sometimes I get in a rush and forget to do so.
@@LakeHickoryScuba 👌👌👌👌
I recently bought a MK25/S620Ti as my first regulator. I was reading through Scubapro's manual and they state to simply just rinse off the regulator and don't mention anything about soaking it. I've looked online and there appears to be a lot of debate in the past about whether you should just rinse or soak the regulator. I want to soak my regulator because I know that I still end up having crystals form on some of my gear that I don't soak, and don't want this to happen with my regulator. However, some people have stated that the dust caps won't prevent water from getting into the 1st stage. Scubapro does not mention anything about whether its safe or not to soak the 1st stage. Do you know if there is a decent risk of getting water into the 1st stage if you soak it, or will the dust caps because to prevent the water from getting in?
Hello NotTheRealMorty, pressure is the biggest variable with water getting in the first stage during the cleaning phase. Typically, the dust cap is sufficient enough to keep most of the water out if you are just dunking it in or spaying it off. One sure fire way to keep water out, yet getting a good cleaning is to leave the regulator attached to the cylinder and keep it pressurized during the cleaning phase. This is a great option if you own your own equipment.
@@LakeHickoryScuba The dust cap is never guaranteed to keep water out of your regulator when you dunk it. Never submerge your first stage when it's not pressurized. It's more likely water will get into your first stage than not.
My regulator has been resting for some years and I find corrosion on the surface of 1st stage. How can I clean it thoroughly? Thanks
Hello budi tran, when regulators get that much corrosion on them, we use an ultra sonic cleaner and a mixture of vinegar and water to clean them. This of course is after we disassemble them.
You should get it serviced anyway. Let the technician handle that for you.
i dont think any water will enter any part of the hose when u purge the 2nd stage. take a straw and seal one end with a finger and then submerge the other end in water and u will notice that no water will get inside.
Hello @sergiollag1, some water can enter from the bottom due to Boyles Law, but that water can not defy gravity enough to travel all the way up the hose to the first stage.
Just because I had to look it up! Drainbo Pau Pilau Wet Suit Cleaner (~ $34 gallon Amazon Prime)
Hello Mark Easter, hopefully the Pau Pilau will work great for you.
LakeHickoryScuba - I was just real curious what you were saying! I’m from NC originally but your accent threw me for a loop on the Pau Pilau! lol
Um... I completely agree with everything you are saying, BUT.... according to the Atomic Manual and Tech, you can not submerge the 1st and 2nd stage unless the system is pressurized. There is an orfice (i believe this is the part) that does not close when not under pressure. This is one of reasons Atomic has 3 year rebuild cycle, as they remove stress on the parts when not used. Its also whey many Tech divers do not like Atomic on stage bottles as you turn off the gas when not in use. If this is all BS, please correct me. I do not take my reg class for 6 months (thanks covid). I also sold most my Atomic and bought HOGs. 2 for 1 baby wins.
Hello Shun Tao, I would suggest following the manufactures recommendations.
Yeah, that's because of its seat saver, which other regs don't have. People used to other regs probably often overlook that line in the Atomic manual, and do things the way they always have. If you do that by accident, though, you can blow it out. From the manual: "Avoid soaking the regulator unpressurized, as water may enter the second stage and first stage mechanism. If the second stage is purged when it is rinsed or soaked, it is a good idea to re-connect the regulator to a tank and blow out any water that may have entered the first or second stage." Atomic regs are incredible regs!
Good stuff
Thanks Jeff muha.
Correct
Thanks.
i dont think you would get that much water in the hose when you press the purge. you would need to push the air out of the hose so the water can replace it and the air really has no place to go. so i dont think you could get more than a couple drops in the hose. i actually think that when you push the purge under water you would get more water due to the back flow effect
Hello DIVERS DOWN, thankfully, physics works for us in this situation.
I always keep my equipment pressurised. No need for even clean it inside. Just rinse from outside with fresh water and let it dry when still pressurised.
Hello grzesiekgregory, thank you for sharing with us.
tu peux me raconter ce que tu veux question nettoyage, si tu n'as pas compris qu'il faut plonger avec du DIN et des chambres sèches, tu es de la loose...
Hello @pierremathonnet9591, thank you for sharing your thoughts with us.
Hola @pierremathonnet9591, gracias por compartir tus pensamientos con nosotros.
I feel like Im gonna need something a little more in depth that this.. Found a regulator in a bin with some chewed up wetsuits.. The bin was half full of water, rat shit, and rats nests..
Hello @DanielSquidington, we would definitely suggest taking it to a certified technician for proper cleaning.
You're half right, you've believed your own myth. Even by submersing the whole system no water can enter the hose thus traveling to the first stage if the purge button is pressed while the dust cap is on! For water to enter it must displace the air and with the dust cap on the air in the hose has no where to go. The only way to get water in the hose and damage the first stage is if the purge button is pressed while being held above the first stage while under water.
Hello Mark Thomson, thanks for sharing your thoughts with us.
@@LakeHickoryScuba it’s not my thoughts it’s Fact!
We appreciate you sharing that with us Mark Thompson.
@@marineboyocean It's BS. The water pressure, even if submerged for a few inches, will compress the air in the hose and allow water in beyond the valve in the second stage. Also, the dust cap isn't air tight, and air can still be displaced. Once water has passed the valve seal on your second stage, it's in the system. Even if you don't raise the second stage above the first, the water in the hose will evaporate over time and get everywhere in the system.
Don't depress the purge valve when submerged if the system isn't pressurized.
Best practice is to have the system pressurized when you clean it, but not everyone has a cylinder at home.
Second best practice is to follow the manufacturer's instructions if the system isn't pressurized.
@@bloodymarvelous4790 You’re wrong ! Dust caps are either rubber or have an O ring so as long as their screwed on correctly the hose is air tight!
I hate hearing about missing divers! Fudge. 😪
Hello ///RONTOURAGE///, unfortunately it happens sometimes.
LakeHickoryScuba I know! 😪
An instructor isn't "flat out lying" if they are telling a student something they believe to be true.
This is true. A lot of Instructors that are old school train their students in old school ways. I use to be one of those Instructors myself. After a while, I began to learn that with technological advancements, the old school methods were no longer needed in certain situations.
I disagree with much of what was said in this video Many divers today have air integratedavid computers Everything he taught in this video is a great way to make some money for the dive shop. Gear with integrated computers or transmitters needs to be washed under pressure or water will eventually find a way and send to your expensive electronics and destroy it
Hello Dale Brownhill, sorry to hear that you disagree with our video. Thankfully, we have had a different experience than yours. We appreciate you sharing your thoughts with us. We would encourage you to clean your equipment in the best manner as you see fit.
Even if you had the regulator assembly completely under the water as long as the dust cap is in place you have created a air lock fluid dynamics with tell you that it would have to compress the air to such a degree that the Water could make a egress into the 1st stage Rather you held the button or not. ....got to love those old timers
Some call me an old - timer, I just giggle and agree. Hope all is well with you guys at the coast.
This is a very misleading video...very bad advice from someone who has been diving since the 80's which i doubt.
Hello gun fan, sorry to hear that you did not like our video. Nevertheless, we appreciate you watching it and sharing your thoughts with us.
@@LakeHickoryScuba You could be a diplomat. You gave a tactful reply to a snide comment.
What a load of Bull S..
Hello @Scubado199, thanks for sharing you vast knowledge on the subject with us. I am sure there are plenty of divers that can learn from you.
Octopus on a necklace, interesting, credibility lost.
Hello Zvonimir Svrlijuga, sorry to hear you did not like our video. Nevertheless, thanks for watching and commenting.
@@LakeHickoryScuba Hello Sir, thank you, for pretty cool response, really! Best regards.
@@LakeHickoryScuba I guess all of SSI has lost its credibility too.
Great video, just what I was looking for. And Im waiting for the next "more thorough reg cleaning " video. And maybe how to fix a free flow regulator. 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻🤿
Hello andrespataky8410. I will see if we can produce a video for you on the most common reasons a regulator Free Flows. Until then, here is a quick reference guide. 1. The intermediate pressure is set too high. 2. The low pressure seat is damaged or worn out. 3. There is debris in the second stage holding the demand lever down. 4. The second stage cracking pressure is too high. 5. The second stage demand valve is frozen (cold water issues with warm water regulators). And there are several other things that can cause a Free Flow as well.