Just writing this so I can come back to it. @4:02 Beginner protocol: - 6 hang positions - 10 sec on / 5 sec off - 6 reps per set/hang - 3 min rest - all hangs two pads - 1 cycle In total ~ 6 min active time - 21 min rest time Hang 1 - jug (4 fingers, thumb not engaged) Hang 2 - IMR 3 fingers open hang two pads (might need to spot yourself) Hang 3 - Four finger half crimp, 90degree bend at knuckles, 2 pads Hang 4 - Sloper, chalk up and try to get lots of surface area, relax shoulders a bit could help the angle Hang 5 - Pinch, medium to wide pinch thumb engaged on the bottom side Hang 6 - MRP 3 finger open hang
1:15 form queues 2:25 warmup 20 hand squeezes, 30Sx2 opposing forarm stretch, 5R scapular shrugs on the jugs + biggest hold, 2 pullups on the jugs + 2 on the biggest hold, 10 finger flexes on the largest hold + medium hold
I learned from this that I literally never half crimp. Even though you mention that the 3 finger drag is hard and requires practice, it felt natural to me. The 4 finger half crimp was so foreign my body refused to do it after 4 reps D:
even after 3 years of seasonal bouldering (don't do it in summer) I can't do a complete beginner routine, is it normal or should I give up now? Also slopper grip gives me huge skin pinch pain on Proximal phalanges - is this normal ?
Recommend getting an apex board or similar from blank slate climbing. Costs a bit, but as someone who has had a modified bar catastrophically fail and warped another, worth while both for stability, security, and saving the door frame.
Nice workout sutructure. I guess using twôdifferent holds for right and left hands are the next level? Example : hanging with right hand on the:3 finger pocket and left hand on the 4 finger pocket below.
Yea it really depends on what you're training for. This 10/5 or 7/3 format (called repeaters) are used more for sport climbing whereas something like max hangs (smaller holds and max effort) are used more for bouldering. The Beastmaker app does have a few hang formats where the grips are alternated, but personally I think just using smaller holds and fewer fingers is enough to up the difficulty.
Hello, could you clarify the workout regiment? For beginner is it: 10 sec work, 5 sec rest, repeat for 6 rounds (a round is work + rest). Recover/ rest for 3 min. Complete 6 cycles total (a cycle is round + recovery)? And are you recommending all hangs in 1 round (jug, IMR, ...) or 1 hang per round (jug x 6, IMR x 6, etc.) Hopefully these questions make sense, I always get confused with set/ rep/ cycle terms.
10 seconds on Grip 1, rest 5 sec (Rep 1). Repeat 5 more times (6 reps total), all on Grip 1. You're now done Set 1. Rest 3 min. 10 sec on Grip 2, rest 5 sec. Repeat 5 more times on Grip 2. Done set 2. Repeat, going from grip 3 to 6. That'd be one "cycle" (6 reps x 6 sets).
First of all: great channel with amazing technique content, keep it up ;) Got a cheap beastmaker1000 for finger training last week. Never trained besides climbing, but I dont progress anymore, being stuck at 7b+ projects, especially in long overhangs. Got myself the grippy app (btw with audio signals) with an official beastmaker1000 training routine for "6a" which is pretty close to your intermediate routine (just with 35°slopers). Same hangtime/rest, reps. Tried it yesterday instead of climbing. I simply can not do that training, not even close regarding the 20mm edge. Even 30mm with 3 fingers is super rough. Im kinda happy because this means my technique cant be that aweful?:> On the other side I am wondering if my fingers are just way too weak for climbing harder. Curious to see progression and hoping to not get too bored hangboarding.
How strong engagement of thumbs are we talking about during half pinch? Engaging them puts additional pressure on rest of the fingers and it bring me to failure
Since all hang boards are different with different depths. Instead of indicating the mm you should be hanging from her is just saying if it should be around 1 or 2 finger pads(the tip to the first joint line is 1, then that joint line to the next is 2)
Any recommendations as a replacement for the two pads holds? Ive got a wooden metolius board and other than the jugs, cant get two pads on hold as they are a bit smaller
There is a video by Geek Climber called 'How to install a hang board with no damage to your wall' - you can see how it is made there :) hope that helps!
can we talk about how the board is mounted on the pull-up bar? Anyone have beta to set up a similar mount? That's exactly the set up I want for myself.
Hello dear climbing friend. I just got a 1 year subscription for trybe. is there new content added throughout the year? Like the app and programs but hope more advanced stuff us coming :-)
There’s nothing wrong with people only wanting to climb in a gym. This sort of “purist” mentality shames a big group of people who really enjoy what they do and who deserve to be included in the sport. No one shames a power lifter for working out in a gym instead of deadlifting big rocks over a fence or swimmers for not only swimming in lakes..
@@marcchrys the problem ist that many cracks are difficult to reach for certain groups. I grew up near a sandstone crack that I could go to by train. Now I am in a region where I have to travel several hours by train to reach some significant outdoor spots and I cant and wont pay for a car. Also for sport climbing you need atleast 2 people and this issue becomes more difficult. Contrary to that my city has a gym in every quarter, two outdoor gyms and there are even more planned. People want to climb even when they arent living right next to the mountains and traveling there takes time and costs Money.
Just writing this so I can come back to it. @4:02
Beginner protocol:
- 6 hang positions
- 10 sec on / 5 sec off
- 6 reps per set/hang
- 3 min rest
- all hangs two pads
- 1 cycle
In total ~ 6 min active time - 21 min rest time
Hang 1 - jug (4 fingers, thumb not engaged)
Hang 2 - IMR 3 fingers open hang two pads (might need to spot yourself)
Hang 3 - Four finger half crimp, 90degree bend at knuckles, 2 pads
Hang 4 - Sloper, chalk up and try to get lots of surface area, relax shoulders a bit could help the angle
Hang 5 - Pinch, medium to wide pinch thumb engaged on the bottom side
Hang 6 - MRP 3 finger open hang
Still with it?
1:15 form queues
2:25 warmup
20 hand squeezes, 30Sx2 opposing forarm stretch, 5R scapular shrugs on the jugs + biggest hold, 2 pullups on the jugs + 2 on the biggest hold, 10 finger flexes on the largest hold + medium hold
Engaging the scapula before loading the fingers is so key
I learned from this that I literally never half crimp. Even though you mention that the 3 finger drag is hard and requires practice, it felt natural to me. The 4 finger half crimp was so foreign my body refused to do it after 4 reps D:
If your little finger is short (like mine) then 4 fingers seem to be a lot harder than 3!
even after 3 years of seasonal bouldering (don't do it in summer) I can't do a complete beginner routine, is it normal or should I give up now? Also slopper grip gives me huge skin pinch pain on Proximal phalanges - is this normal ?
Great video, gonna give this a go. Question though, how did you attach your hangboard to your pull up bar?! That's a brilliant idea
How did you attach your hangboard to the pull up bar?
Same question here.
Geek climber has a vid on it :)
Magic
Same question here
Recommend getting an apex board or similar from blank slate climbing. Costs a bit, but as someone who has had a modified bar catastrophically fail and warped another, worth while both for stability, security, and saving the door frame.
Well done video, succinct, clear directions verbally and visually.
Nice workout sutructure.
I guess using twôdifferent holds for right and left hands are the next level? Example : hanging with right hand on the:3 finger pocket and left hand on the 4 finger pocket below.
Add weight is the better way, especially with fewer hold types and focus on grip positions
Yea it really depends on what you're training for. This 10/5 or 7/3 format (called repeaters) are used more for sport climbing whereas something like max hangs (smaller holds and max effort) are used more for bouldering. The Beastmaker app does have a few hang formats where the grips are alternated, but personally I think just using smaller holds and fewer fingers is enough to up the difficulty.
I was laughing during the intro. What did other people think you were doing when you were crawling through the park like a lizard! 0:11
They kept their distance.
Hello, could you clarify the workout regiment? For beginner is it: 10 sec work, 5 sec rest, repeat for 6 rounds (a round is work + rest). Recover/ rest for 3 min. Complete 6 cycles total (a cycle is round + recovery)? And are you recommending all hangs in 1 round (jug, IMR, ...) or 1 hang per round (jug x 6, IMR x 6, etc.) Hopefully these questions make sense, I always get confused with set/ rep/ cycle terms.
Hey! I think that for beginner it is: 6 sets of 6 reps of (10 sec on | 5 sec off) with a 3 minute rest between each set. Hope this helps.
10 seconds on Grip 1, rest 5 sec (Rep 1). Repeat 5 more times (6 reps total), all on Grip 1. You're now done Set 1. Rest 3 min.
10 sec on Grip 2, rest 5 sec. Repeat 5 more times on Grip 2. Done set 2.
Repeat, going from grip 3 to 6.
That'd be one "cycle" (6 reps x 6 sets).
Bro this explanation saved me @@petewhittington9399
Love your vids, can you share the link for your hang-board setup, would love the workout at home.
First of all: great channel with amazing technique content, keep it up ;)
Got a cheap beastmaker1000 for finger training last week. Never trained besides climbing, but I dont progress anymore, being stuck at 7b+ projects, especially in long overhangs.
Got myself the grippy app (btw with audio signals) with an official beastmaker1000 training routine for "6a" which is pretty close to your intermediate routine (just with 35°slopers). Same hangtime/rest, reps. Tried it yesterday instead of climbing. I simply can not do that training, not even close regarding the 20mm edge. Even 30mm with 3 fingers is super rough.
Im kinda happy because this means my technique cant be that aweful?:> On the other side I am wondering if my fingers are just way too weak for climbing harder. Curious to see progression and hoping to not get too bored hangboarding.
how did you fix the hangboard on the bar??? 🧐
How did you fasten the board?
This is so good
Thank you! How often would you recommend doing a session per week? Every other day?
I go for twice a week with at least 2 days rest in between sessions.
how many times would you recommend to practice it a week?
I want to improve my shoulder mobility. Would you recommend to switch up active and passive hanging every other rep?
To improve mobility you’d want to be moving through a range of motion, but hangboarding should be intense enough to not allow that
How strong engagement of thumbs are we talking about during half pinch? Engaging them puts additional pressure on rest of the fingers and it bring me to failure
Hey, what is the bar like device you are using to hang the hangboard on?
What do you mean by using 1 or 2 pads?
Since all hang boards are different with different depths. Instead of indicating the mm you should be hanging from her is just saying if it should be around 1 or 2 finger pads(the tip to the first joint line is 1, then that joint line to the next is 2)
My main curiousity is what the name of the device is that you used to hang the hangboard from your door frame
Any recommendations as a replacement for the two pads holds? Ive got a wooden metolius board and other than the jugs, cant get two pads on hold as they are a bit smaller
merry xmas and thx for these awesome videos. mahalo
How did you set up the hangboard on the pull-up bar like that?
There is a video by Geek Climber called 'How to install a hang board with no damage to your wall' - you can see how it is made there :) hope that helps!
awesome 👏🏻
can we talk about how the board is mounted on the pull-up bar? Anyone have beta to set up a similar mount? That's exactly the set up I want for myself.
Geek climber has a video on how to do it.
What does it mean to give yourself Pads in hangboard training?
End of your finger to 1st bend = 1 pad.
End of your finger to 2nd bend = 2 pads
Where to buy the hang board
Hello dear climbing friend. I just got a 1 year subscription for trybe. is there new content added throughout the year? Like the app and programs but hope more advanced stuff us coming :-)
Hey thanks for getting the Trybe membership! Yup I plan on adding 1-2 workouts to the app each month. Climbing workouts will be added in January :-)
@@movementforclimbers awesome 👏🏻 can’t wait! happy blessed new year Siawn 🤸🏻
what does pad mean
It's the piece of skin from the tip of your finger to the first joint on the underside of your finger
Your back is fucking shredded
climbing outside can not compensate for the lack of climbing gyms!? the world has turned upside down
At least for optimizing training, it's hard to beat a climbing gym. But at least I train indoors so that my outdoor sessions can be more enjoyable.
Sadly these days I hear kids saying "I climb", I ask where they climb and they reply *the indoor wall at X" :-(
There’s nothing wrong with people only wanting to climb in a gym. This sort of “purist” mentality shames a big group of people who really enjoy what they do and who deserve to be included in the sport. No one shames a power lifter for working out in a gym instead of deadlifting big rocks over a fence or swimmers for not only swimming in lakes..
Shocked me too
@@marcchrys the problem ist that many cracks are difficult to reach for certain groups. I grew up near a sandstone crack that I could go to by train. Now I am in a region where I have to travel several hours by train to reach some significant outdoor spots and I cant and wont pay for a car. Also for sport climbing you need atleast 2 people and this issue becomes more difficult. Contrary to that my city has a gym in every quarter, two outdoor gyms and there are even more planned. People want to climb even when they arent living right next to the mountains and traveling there takes time and costs Money.
When you say beginner can a v4 climber do the beginner workout?
I think a V4 climber is pretty much still quite beginner ish. Thats just IMO.
Can i make that after easy climbing session?