Hi Harry, Well picked as usual, as you said the bevelled key pins do allow over setting, but also the thin top and bottom of the spools means they only have to be just eased over the shearline. It's easy to over set the spools due to these thin ends - most spools have wider ends on them. We have also found the two "anti drill" pins to be soft - might as well put two cut down nails in the holes! Lockwood is aware of the problem. Regards, Brian.
Your posts always get me thinking, and you are on to something with the thin edges. It may be that I'm so used to pushing beyond thick spool rims that I'm unconsciously doing that on this lock and it's leading to oversets. I'll have to revisit this lock with that in mind. Thank you. Interesting note about the anti-drill pins. That's a HUGE problem. With the plastic shutters, does that mean that there is NO drill protection? Even that bottom retainer plate was pretty thin compared to comparable locks. It seems to me that this lock could be significantly improved by replacing that whole shutter mechanism with a nice thick hardened steel spinner.
Nicely done! A beautiful lock. Way out of my budget but I like it a lot. Funny, I'm so used to those shallow spools and tapers that I could actually hear/sense it when you over-set. :) Light tension together with slow and light pick pressure seems to be the ticket for me. Not sure how much that spring pressure would change things for me though.
Thanks -- I could definitely use some more experience on these pins. As you could see, there's definitely room for improvement! I'll give your method a try.
LOL. Yes, my decision to hold all padlocks in my hand while picking (as opposed to using the vice) in the name of added realism is being protested strongly by the tendons in my forearm!
You said you over set pin 3... How did you tell and how did you bring it back down? I can be a little heavy handed at times, so always interested in technique :-)
Check out my video #99... I explain how I check for oversets. Almost unconsciously, I do an abbreviated version of that after every pin I pick. Also, sometimes you can feel the overset at it happens... it's no so much that there's a particular feeling for oversets as much as something just feels wrong... and given where I am in the stroke, its probably an overset. I can't explain it better than that.
Very well done Sir! The way you positioned the tension wrenches, exactly what I was *attempting to convey in a previous post haha! Brilliant work and comprehensive explanation! You make it look sooooo easy, I obviously need more practice ;) Great motivation looking at mine right now, thanks for the insight, great picking!
Thanks for all the info on these locks. It's actually possible to pick them without the wiper insert, but it was noticeably harder. Good luck slaying yours soon!
I'll hang a wrench at the botkw just to rest my pick on that instead of core. If it's holding a shitter open, two thumbs up. Although it is very hard to pick with two thumbs up. Ya I go stupid around nap time.
Thanks. Never heard of surgard. When you can rake, but not SPP on a Chinese lock, that often is a sign of indistinct shear lines caused by rounded over or tapered driver pins. Try increasing your tension. Good luck.
It is a spring steel roll pin. You need a punch to knock it out with a hammer. I have special punches that are designed to insert and remove roll pins without damaging them (particularly when reinserting). If you do not have a roll pin starter punch to put it back in, be sure to use a brass hammer, or there is a good chance you will destroy it.
Aha! Thank you for that. So glad I waited for some informed advice. Really don't want hurt the lock in any way. I do have a dead blow hammer (one end hardened plastic and the other brass) which may work for reinsertion. Much appreciated.
LockPickingLawyer how to you rate the Lockwood twin? Would you rate its pick resistance higher than say a mul t lock interactive+ or mt5+ . Was thinking of the twin as my next purchase. Thanks in advance
chefgav1 It's hard to say... I have tons of experience on MTL's but only one Lockwood twin under my belt (and that was a while ago). That makes it really hard to compare. I remember being impressed with the tolerances of the lock and the resulting difficulty of the normal spool pins. I also remember being less impressed with the difficulty of the sliders. I'd guess that if I had the same amount of experience on the lockwoods as I do on MTL's, I'd be opening them with some regularity.
LockPickingLawyer thanks for that.The Lockwood twin looks like a scaled down version of the Assa twin and primus. Would like to watch you do a primus gut and open.
chefgav1 The slider false gates on the Lockwood are much shallower than on an ASSA twin. That difference massively affects pick resistance. As for the primus, the sidebar mechanisms don't share much in common.
I'd like to see that also! I know the lock well. I have a few of them, and I've spent more hours than I care to admit on them. I have a handful of opens, but I am very far from anything resembling consistency. If I had one with crappy bitting, I suspect I could open it in a reasonable amount of time, but all of mine have demon bitting (a product of bilocks having no MACS).
![[270] Lockwood MT5+ Padlock Picked and Gutted](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/WWbi4yNr6rs/mqdefault.jpg)
![[270] Lockwood MT5+ Padlock Picked and Gutted](/img/tr.png)
![[459] Lockwood 334C45 Padlock Picked and Gutted](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/f4ggrKe1L8Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent picking on a BEAUTIFUL padlock!! Spools + tapered key pins + tight tolerances of a Lockwood = tricky pick!! Great job!
Thanks... this one was tricky. If I didn't have prior experience on Lockwoods, it definitely would have been harder.
Hi Harry, Well picked as usual, as you said the bevelled key pins do allow over setting, but also the thin top and bottom of the spools means they only have to be just eased over the shearline. It's easy to over set the spools due to these thin ends - most spools have wider ends on them. We have also found the two "anti drill" pins to be soft - might as well put two cut down nails in the holes! Lockwood is aware of the problem. Regards, Brian.
Your posts always get me thinking, and you are on to something with the thin edges. It may be that I'm so used to pushing beyond thick spool rims that I'm unconsciously doing that on this lock and it's leading to oversets. I'll have to revisit this lock with that in mind. Thank you. Interesting note about the anti-drill pins. That's a HUGE problem. With the plastic shutters, does that mean that there is NO drill protection? Even that bottom retainer plate was pretty thin compared to comparable locks. It seems to me that this lock could be significantly improved by replacing that whole shutter mechanism with a nice thick hardened steel spinner.
That was quite a bit easier (looking) then it looked like it was going to be. Good job man as usual. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks... reminded me a bit of the Kasp 19070X. Beefy as heck, but a slightly disappointing core.
I watched video 99 after your suggestion to lock_noob. Excellent demonstration on how to deal with overset pins. Thanks
Great! Glad you found it helpful.
Fantastic picking and gutting. Love the idea with the tension wrench, Well done LPL.
Thanks.
Nicely done, love seeing new or huge locks. This was both :)
Thanks, me too!!!
Nicely done! A beautiful lock. Way out of my budget but I like it a lot. Funny, I'm so used to those shallow spools and tapers that I could actually hear/sense it when you over-set. :) Light tension together with slow and light pick pressure seems to be the ticket for me. Not sure how much that spring pressure would change things for me though.
Thanks -- I could definitely use some more experience on these pins. As you could see, there's definitely room for improvement! I'll give your method a try.
Very subtle spools. The moment I get pushy or tense up I double my chances of over-setting. :)
my hand hurts watching hold that monster of a lock! lol
LOL. Yes, my decision to hold all padlocks in my hand while picking (as opposed to using the vice) in the name of added realism is being protested strongly by the tendons in my forearm!
Hahaha well it looks good and also gives you added motivation to just get the damn thing open fast lol
Wow what an awesome pick brother. Thanks for sharing it with us!
You said you over set pin 3... How did you tell and how did you bring it back down? I can be a little heavy handed at times, so always interested in technique :-)
Check out my video #99... I explain how I check for oversets. Almost unconsciously, I do an abbreviated version of that after every pin I pick. Also, sometimes you can feel the overset at it happens... it's no so much that there's a particular feeling for oversets as much as something just feels wrong... and given where I am in the stroke, its probably an overset. I can't explain it better than that.
Thanks! I'll check out the vid right now
Cool lock and great picking. Seems like these tapered keypins put up a little fight ;-)
Thanks... definitely a bit of a fight in them. The ease with which they overset is startling.
Another great video sir. thumbs up.
Thanks.
Wow, what a lock! Great picking as always. :)
Thanks.
Very well done Sir! The way you positioned the tension wrenches, exactly what I was *attempting to convey in a previous post haha! Brilliant work and comprehensive explanation! You make it look sooooo easy, I obviously need more practice ;) Great motivation looking at mine right now, thanks for the insight, great picking!
Thanks for all the info on these locks. It's actually possible to pick them without the wiper insert, but it was noticeably harder. Good luck slaying yours soon!
I'll hang a wrench at the botkw just to rest my pick on that instead of core. If it's holding a shitter open, two thumbs up. Although it is very hard to pick with two thumbs up. Ya I go stupid around nap time.
Randy Perkins LOL... sober up, friend.
wow that was supposed to be shutter. The i and u are right next to each other
Great picking yet again, those tapered key pins look very interesting, I've not come across any yet, gorgeous lock as well, I'm jealous :-)
Very popular in Australia... you need pretty high tolerance locks to take advantage of them, otherwise all you have is a Kwikset.
Thanks both, that's handy to know, I now know that i might have a couple of locks that it may work on. Time to start playing.
Pete Restall See my video #99 for the reasons that they tend to be difficult.
Interesting that the shutter is plastic, but if it's intended to provide weather protection then it's a good idea to make it out of plastic.
Great picking. Love that lock.
Thanks.
very informative keep them coming
Thanks.
Good picking.looking forward to your Lockwood MT5+ pick
Thanks.
great picking yet again,thankyou sir.
Thanks.
what a lock.grate video. ever heard of surgard pad lock made in China. ?can rake it i can't seam to single pick
Thanks. Never heard of surgard. When you can rake, but not SPP on a Chinese lock, that often is a sign of indistinct shear lines caused by rounded over or tapered driver pins. Try increasing your tension. Good luck.
exerlernt work my friend nice job from stiglocks..r
Thanks.
May I ask how you removed that pin to release the shackle? I was assuming a hex key but apparently I am quite wrong.
It is a spring steel roll pin. You need a punch to knock it out with a hammer. I have special punches that are designed to insert and remove roll pins without damaging them (particularly when reinserting). If you do not have a roll pin starter punch to put it back in, be sure to use a brass hammer, or there is a good chance you will destroy it.
Aha! Thank you for that. So glad I waited for some informed advice. Really don't want hurt the lock in any way. I do have a dead blow hammer (one end hardened plastic and the other brass) which may work for reinsertion. Much appreciated.
I just looked this up online, and saw that it comes with a twin system. Looks like a slider track on the side of the key. Have you come across any?
Like the one I pick in video #71? :-P
LockPickingLawyer how to you rate the Lockwood twin? Would you rate its pick resistance higher than say a mul t lock interactive+ or mt5+ . Was thinking of the twin as my next purchase.
Thanks in advance
chefgav1 It's hard to say... I have tons of experience on MTL's but only one Lockwood twin under my belt (and that was a while ago). That makes it really hard to compare. I remember being impressed with the tolerances of the lock and the resulting difficulty of the normal spool pins. I also remember being less impressed with the difficulty of the sliders. I'd guess that if I had the same amount of experience on the lockwoods as I do on MTL's, I'd be opening them with some regularity.
LockPickingLawyer thanks for that.The Lockwood twin looks like a scaled down version of the Assa twin and primus.
Would like to watch you do a primus gut and open.
chefgav1 The slider false gates on the Lockwood are much shallower than on an ASSA twin. That difference massively affects pick resistance. As for the primus, the sidebar mechanisms don't share much in common.
You detect an overset easily. Any tips for a noob like me to detect an overset? Pls and ty.
See my video #99... I think that will help.
+LockPickingLawyer beautiful! Thank you sir!
I would like really like to see you pick Australia's famous BIlock www.bilock.com.au
I'd like to see that also! I know the lock well. I have a few of them, and I've spent more hours than I care to admit on them. I have a handful of opens, but I am very far from anything resembling consistency. If I had one with crappy bitting, I suspect I could open it in a reasonable amount of time, but all of mine have demon bitting (a product of bilocks having no MACS).