I used your video to help me with my tn75. Thank you so much!! .... a couple things I noticed, .... it doesn't show how the seal was taken out. .... it just showed up in pieces there on the drawbar. I found that it needs to be out, for access to be able to drive the bushing out. ..... I just tore the seal all to pieces with whatever and got it all out. Then I used a socket... I think around 11/16" and drove out the bushing. ... and mine drove out extremely hard. ... I think it might even be cracked, but I put it back in anyway..... should have had a new one like you did! .... And then another bigger socket to drive the seal and bushing back into place...... Also, I did start near the end of the circlip with a small good Craftsman screwdriver. You have to really whack it good to get behind the clip and then get a bigger screwdriver and a pick and after about 25 tries you can get it up to where you can pull it out. .... Thanks again!!
A big thanks for your video Mtnfarmer. I just finished the same rebuild on my t70. Without your video I would have brought it to the NH shop. Now tractor is fixed and I’m a little more tractor smart.
Mtnfarmer, Thanks for the videos. I did hear you say you were a mechanic. I need to go a little off topic with my problem. I own a TL70 and the tractor looks very similar to your TN70. My problem seems to have no answer to many NH tractor owners, that experienced the same problem. The problem is while mowing or using the three point hitch, it fails totally while the front end loader continues normally. Your mowing and feel more resistance and notice your dragging the mower deck. The raise or draft control have no effect. You turn the tractor off , check for leaks etc. Restart the tractor and everything fine. I changed filters, fluid, first time it happened and it still happens now after six years of owing this tractor. It did have some automatic features disabled when I bought the tractor, but I can see no connection. The auto one button push control, to set your lift and draft automatically, has cable removed. Thanks
Got into changing out a lower link pin on a TO-35 forty years ago. It was a big ordeal to change it. I had to loosen the left wheel assembly to inset the new link pin. Glad you got that done and never heard a wirty dord. I also didn't see a pick stuck through your thumb or finger while you were doing the work.
Thank you so much for your help! :) It made it easier when I changed my seals. Also a needle nose vise grip makes removing retainer clips much easier. :)
A19mm is the same as a 3/4 standard I believe, I cant remember anymore, but I was a heavy equipment mechanic in my younger days. It looked like the bolts had numbers stamped on them which indicates metric.
Replace the rear lift arm seals on both sides. Did not replace the bar. 8 months later one side of the seal started leaking again. With the cost of hydraulic oil definitely recommend replacing the bar.
The reason the second bolt cross threaded was because the outer cover is turned 180 degrees. The holes will only align with properly if the top of the cover is up against the pin above it. Check the video at the begining and you will see that the cover is right up against the pin. You can see at the end of the video there is about 3/16" to 1/4" spacing between the pin and cover.
I didn't have any notch or grove everything's is machine perfectly around there's was no way to slip a screwdriver or a pick in. The way you explained it there a area on the cast piece to move the clip into theres not on mine. After spinning and spinning the clip around with a very sharp L shape pick i was a able to get it behind the backside of clip and pop it up. I grinded 45 degree on the backside of the clip for next time so its easy to get the pick in. New Holland next time use a internal snap ring with holes.
I used your video to help me with my tn75. Thank you so much!! .... a couple things I noticed, .... it doesn't show how the seal was taken out. .... it just showed up in pieces there on the drawbar. I found that it needs to be out, for access to be able to drive the bushing out. ..... I just tore the seal all to pieces with whatever and got it all out. Then I used a socket... I think around 11/16" and drove out the bushing. ... and mine drove out extremely hard. ... I think it might even be cracked, but I put it back in anyway..... should have had a new one like you did! .... And then another bigger socket to drive the seal and bushing back into place...... Also, I did start near the end of the circlip with a small good Craftsman screwdriver. You have to really whack it good to get behind the clip and then get a bigger screwdriver and a pick and after about 25 tries you can get it up to where you can pull it out. .... Thanks again!!
Thanks for this video. I have to go behind my father in law and put it together. I wasn’t there when he took it apart. This is a big help.
A big thanks for your video Mtnfarmer. I just finished the same rebuild on my t70. Without your video I would have brought it to the NH shop. Now tractor is fixed and I’m a little more tractor smart.
Glad it helped you out
Thanks for watching
I'm doing this repair now.
Lucky to have a shop w / vice to hold housing.
Thanks for the video,!
My T4020 is leaking on both sides. You just showed me how it’s done so I won’t screw it up. Thanks a million!
Same tractor just started doing it as well not even 15 years old yet
Thanks for the video! It helped me get the circle pin from the top of bushing.
Mtnfarmer, Thanks for the videos. I did hear you say you were a mechanic. I need to go a little off topic with my problem. I own a TL70 and the tractor looks very similar to your TN70. My problem seems to have no answer to many NH tractor owners, that experienced the same problem. The problem is while mowing or using the three point hitch, it fails totally while the front end loader continues normally. Your mowing and feel more resistance and notice your dragging the mower deck. The raise or draft control have no effect. You turn the tractor off , check for leaks etc. Restart the tractor and everything fine. I changed filters, fluid, first time it happened and it still happens now after six years of owing this tractor. It did have some automatic features disabled when I bought the tractor, but I can see no connection. The auto one button push control, to set your lift and draft automatically, has cable removed. Thanks
Got into changing out a lower link pin on a TO-35 forty years ago. It was a big ordeal to change it. I had to loosen the left wheel assembly to inset the new link pin. Glad you got that done and never heard a wirty dord. I also didn't see a pick stuck through your thumb or finger while you were doing the work.
Thank you so much for your help! :) It made it easier when I changed my seals. Also a needle nose vise grip makes removing retainer clips much easier. :)
a jack of all trades and a master to none good job
I have a tn75a, mine leaks in the same area, why in the world did they come up with that design, great how to video,
Very informative. Thank you much. I need to get you some hemostats for X-Mas...
Great video.i learn lot from u
could you please list the repair parts numbers for ordering purposes? I would guess the same seals will work on a tn65?
Excellent video couldn't tell but I hope you had it parked under a shade tree there cooler than in a shop for those that don't know
Job well done. And without a lot of swearing.
How did you get the seal out ? The metal band that goes around the seal does not want to come out even with a screwdriver and hammer.
A19mm is the same as a 3/4 standard I believe, I cant remember anymore, but I was a heavy equipment mechanic in my younger days. It looked like the bolts had numbers stamped on them which indicates metric.
Yeah I think is was paint build up on them or they were worn from being removed so many times lol
The wheels could do with a lick of paint.
Even with minor issues like that you will miss the New Holland if you part with it.
Keep making the videos!
Great video! Thanks!
I would like to know how to do that on a 8000 Ford tractor , if you have a video on one
Replace the rear lift arm seals on both sides. Did not replace the bar. 8 months later one side of the seal started leaking again. With the cost of hydraulic oil definitely recommend replacing the bar.
I had to do the same thing to my TN65 some years back. Not a terrible job, but not my favorite either.
Does anyone know the part number for the cap assembly? i have a tractor missing one
The reason the second bolt cross threaded was because the outer cover is turned 180 degrees. The holes will only align with properly if the top of the cover is up against the pin above it. Check the video at the begining and you will see that the cover is right up against the pin. You can see at the end of the video there is about 3/16" to 1/4" spacing between the pin and cover.
Thank you sir!
If I had to guess it is designed that way because it has draft control.
Is this shaft all the way through to the other side or is there a shaft for each side.
The shaft runs all the way through
I didn't have any notch or grove everything's is machine perfectly around there's was no way to slip a screwdriver or a pick in. The way you explained it there a area on the cast piece to move the clip into theres not on mine. After spinning and spinning the clip around with a very sharp L shape pick i was a able to get it behind the backside of clip and pop it up. I grinded 45 degree on the backside of the clip for next time so its easy to get the pick in. New Holland next time use a internal snap ring with holes.
Great video. I think I said the cuss words for you.
Ive done this several times on my tn60a. And you are correct, its the dumbest design ive ever seen on a tractor.
Does anybody make a replacment part that just welds the lift arm pin to the housing. I see no reason for the oil seal.
@@jwhoweth ive asked the same thing. Seems welding it makes more sense then replacing the seal every 2 years.
Does anybody make a replacment part that just welds the lift arm pin to the housing. I see no reason for the oil seal.
The best way to fix this problem is to just replace it with a orange tractor! problem solved. 😁