Thank you so much for posting this video on repairing that lift arm seal! I live in Surry County North Carolina and it is so nice to see someone close to me that cares enough to show other people the problems that they run into. I haven't changed my seal yet but I now see what I need to order and I need to go get one of those little pics so that I can get that ring out. So thank you again God bless
Thanks, great video and using it as a guide to get the right parts and replace the seal on our TN95. As we are in England our polish mechanic is getting used to your accent but all good. Our New Holland parts guys were excellent but the video just gives you that extra bit of confidence that you're doing it correctly, cheers
47129372 seal / 17284281 o-ring / 84300729 bushing / 13421876 circle clip. New Holland part #'s. Thanks for the video, it helped! Be careful the shaft is one piece from one end to the other. It can start to slide out on other side when you are putting back together. LUBE SHAFT, SEAL, BUSHING AND O-RING BEFORE INSTALLING BACK ON TRACTOR!
I get a 4' piece of pvc the right size, tape shop vac hose to one end other end goes in dipstick hole, needs to fit tight. Clean up around housing good so you don't suck crap in, start vac, take housing off, some oil loss is noted, stuff rag in hole to maintain good suction, fix seal, pull rag out, put housing back in, job done! Only lost three quarts! At $16 a gallon saved over 10 gallons.
A few years ago the support Used to come with the seals in it , not anymore it’s a seal kit that goes in the support. Question is how did you get the steal out of the support. I’ve even used a 20 ton press to try to press it out and it will not come out.
Agreed. Some engineers or mechanical designers haven't got the sense of a piss ant. I have one to replace on a Case IH JX80. Dumb dumb dumb design. Completely unnecessary. Also unnecessary are relays that remain constantly energized for the tractor to operate as in the case of the Case IH Farmall 50A. Relays, solenoids, computers and such mostly just don't belong on tractors.
Take out clip. I stopped it from spinning with a point of a pick on one end, then used another small pick to peel it out. Then beat bearing/bushing down and out with a screw driver, between seal and bearing/bushing. Then you pry out seal with very small screw driver, pound behind outer seal and housing all the way around seal. Then flip housing over and tap out.
Hi..enjoyed your video..I also have a new holland TN75S....and rite after I gave it trans service and changed fluid it started leaking out of right side.....of course it always happens at the most inopportune time so I would add about one gallon a day if using and it leaks at rest as well My question is why you only did one side?
I have aTN60A with the same problem but have a hard time finding part number for seal and bushing and o ring. Would you have the kit number? Great video thumbs.
I used a pick and a small flat screwdriver. I used the pick to get under the end then slid the screwdriver behind the ring and slowly worked my way around to get it out of the groove.
Use a small screw driver and get behind it and when the end moves out then pull it out with needles nose. The bearing in front of the seal is probably leaking to and need to be replaced. I would take it to a dealer after you take them off. It hard getting them out
I have a TN 55 with the exact same problem. Even same side. lol. Seeing I’m not exactly mechanically inclined, I guess I’m fixing to give the dealership about a 400/500 dollar donation :(
Spherical bearings. You are lucky the housing is removable without removing the entire shaft housing assembly. The load sensor for draft and load sensing is on a lever arm with a roller that sets on top of the sensor shaft (we call it a rock shaft around here, the lower implement lift arm shaft) If you remove the housing you have to be aware the housing and shaft must go in as an assembly to lift up the roller on the sensor lever arm. The shaft will not simply slide out or in IF you could get it pas the tires.
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Thank you so much for posting this video on repairing that lift arm seal! I live in Surry County North Carolina and it is so nice to see someone close to me that cares enough to show other people the problems that they run into. I haven't changed my seal yet but I now see what I need to order and I need to go get one of those little pics so that I can get that ring out. So thank you again God bless
Thanks, great video and using it as a guide to get the right parts and replace the seal on our TN95. As we are in England our polish mechanic is getting used to your accent but all good. Our New Holland parts guys were excellent but the video just gives you that extra bit of confidence that you're doing it correctly, cheers
Glad it helped
47129372 seal / 17284281 o-ring / 84300729 bushing / 13421876 circle clip. New Holland part #'s. Thanks for the video, it helped! Be careful the shaft is one piece from one end to the other. It can start to slide out on other side when you are putting back together. LUBE SHAFT, SEAL, BUSHING AND O-RING BEFORE INSTALLING BACK ON TRACTOR!
Thanks Jason. I need to check and see if these are the same parts needed for my TN75V.
Thank you! I need to do the same repair on my TN75V and a neighbor's Case JX1075N.
I get a 4' piece of pvc the right size, tape shop vac hose to one end other end goes in dipstick hole, needs to fit tight. Clean up around housing good so you don't suck crap in, start vac, take housing off, some oil loss is noted, stuff rag in hole to maintain good suction, fix seal, pull rag out, put housing back in, job done! Only lost three quarts! At $16 a gallon saved over 10 gallons.
Thanks for this vid! I have a TN75DA same problem. I wish I never bought that model seems like constant problems due to design just like this seal
I just did this exact repair for about 140$. 10 gallons of hydraulic oil was 100$ and the seals and O ring were about 38$
Thank you for the video.
You are welcome!
Can you show and / or explain what procedures you took to remove bushing. Thanks.
A few years ago the support Used to come with the seals in it , not anymore it’s a seal kit that goes in the support. Question is how did you get the steal out of the support. I’ve even used a 20 ton press to try to press it out and it will not come out.
What kind of fluid does the tn70 and capacity…on the rear housing
How did you get the seals out?
How did you get the Bushing out?
U leave out the details how to get the detaining ring out to get to the seal...
Thank you!!! Very helpful!
Great video I've fiat 110 same problem
How did you get the seal
Out?
How did you get the seal with the ball out of the support housing. Thanks RM, Florida.
Agreed. Some engineers or mechanical designers haven't got the sense of a piss ant.
I have one to replace on a Case IH JX80. Dumb dumb dumb design. Completely unnecessary.
Also unnecessary are relays that remain constantly energized for the tractor to operate as in the case of the Case IH Farmall 50A. Relays, solenoids, computers and such mostly just don't belong on tractors.
I meant to say the bushing. How do you get the bushing out of the support.
Take out clip. I stopped it from spinning with a point of a pick on one end, then used another small pick to peel it out. Then beat bearing/bushing down and out with a screw driver, between seal and bearing/bushing. Then you pry out seal with very small screw driver, pound behind outer seal and housing all the way around seal. Then flip housing over and tap out.
Have you used Holganix for your farm?
If so what are the results
Hi..enjoyed your video..I also have a new holland TN75S....and rite after I gave it trans service and changed fluid it started leaking out of right side.....of course it always happens at the most inopportune time so I would add about one gallon a day if using and it leaks at rest as well
My question is why you only did one side?
To be honest I should have done both sides but it wasn't leaking and I was in a hurry
I have aTN60A with the same problem but have a hard time finding part number for seal and bushing and o ring. Would you have the kit number?
Great video thumbs.
I will look and let you know
This should be it numbers 3,6,and 7partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr52934ar597398
Hiw did you remove the retaning ring ?
I used a pick and a small flat screwdriver. I used the pick to get under the end then slid the screwdriver behind the ring and slowly worked my way around to get it out of the groove.
Use a small screw driver and get behind it and when the end moves out then pull it out with needles nose. The bearing in front of the seal is probably leaking to and need to be replaced. I would take it to a dealer after you take them off. It hard getting them out
I have a TN 55 with the exact same problem. Even same side. lol. Seeing I’m not exactly mechanically inclined, I guess I’m fixing to give the dealership about a 400/500 dollar donation :(
It is not that bad of job
@@Mtnfarmer Watching you, it doesn't look like a bad job at all- just getting the seal out. Thanks again!
Spherical bearings. You are lucky the housing is removable without removing the entire shaft housing assembly.
The load sensor for draft and load sensing is on a lever arm with a roller that sets on top of the sensor shaft (we call it a rock shaft around here, the lower implement lift arm shaft) If you remove the housing you have to be aware the housing and shaft must go in as an assembly to lift up the roller on the sensor lever arm. The shaft will not simply slide out or in IF you could get it pas the tires.
Same problem at John Deere 2140.
lower link draft sensing on that tractor ..........hence the shaft has to run through the transmission ................