Old Val is coming along. I didn't expect so much work to get her serviceable! I still think I got a good deal though. What do you think? At least this repair didn't cost me money except for welding supplies. Have an awesome weekend everybody!
As a mechanical engineer that has designed off road equipment for almost 20 years I was going to type a summary about stress risers that would do crack exactly as try did caused by extended used on hard surfaces with ridgid tires. Remember you could have paid 12 to 15k then found these same cracks.
@@HighPr00fI’m sure we’ve all done it in our respective trades/professions. That called protocol improvements. You’re doing a really great job John. 🇦🇺👋
That model New Holland was notorious for cracking out at the drive axles. The later machines that used heavier gauge steel which solved the problem. I fixed hundreds of them weld shop years ago when they were new to the market. We used 1/4" steal plate over top, which would move your wheels out a 1/2 inch. But it solved the problem.
@maddod2771 Hahaha! Dropped. Classic metal fatigue. Thank you for sharing your EXPERIENCE. I suggested your answer exactly as YOU KNOW his will crack again. YOU know how to fix them! A wider stance only makes it safer when Jon is brush mowing.
dropped maybe. I just realized it's use case they must have been hauling concrete with all those extra counterweights. just constant flexure in an area of high stress. Holes in steel plates have stress concentrations. They should have used thicker steel or a higher grade but obviously the fatigue life cycle was extremely short
The actual problem with that is the poor design. And typically poor design is compensated with thicker plate. "Just put thicker plate on it until it does not crack..." There should be stiffeners on that plate area. Now there is only plate, and studs and wheel carrier which acts as a leverage arm. And it is only a matter of time before fatigue cracks will appear.
Visiontrivia , you are right!!! Mr John takes us through a lot of adventures and projects. By far the most informative channel for the topics he works on. Very nice guy, one of the people who make you feel like you are in your own shop doing that work. The man definitely missed a good opportunity to be a teacher.
@@brian_2040 totally agree with you. Very genuine nice guy. I’m not into mechanics, but I learned a lot of skills from him that I can use to repair basic stuff around the house.
Actually, flux core would have been ideal since he has a mig machine and I was really surprised he didn't just switch to it.....I'm not sure if he has a stick welder. While I can stick weld, I just hate the mess and changing out electrodes so only use it when I must and same goes for flux core although I have used plenty of that. Tig or mig with 75/25 for steel and of course argon and trimix for aluminum and stainless mig are my go to.
@CGT80 stick is the best for outside and contaminated areas, 7018. Flux core has his the same problem as hard wire. You're still dealing with shielded gas .
@@dougrector4412 Ummm, no. Dual shield still needs gas but flux core is the same as stick, just on a roll. It has worked fine for me in windy conditions, granted maybe stick does even better in the wind but I'm no expert on stick. I learned stick with 6013 as a teen and then 6010/11 in college welding classes. Most of my work is with material I can prep properly with various grinders, but I would use flux core or stick for areas that can not be preped.
I'm a journeyman welder ticketed in stick , wire, and tig. Gasless wire is not on the list for structure welding. I've tried it, and it's a splatter fest. It's for people that don't want a gas contract and are welding on lawnmowers...Sorry that's what it is.
@@dougrector4412 You sound like a typical egotistical male with a black and white view. Define structural welding.....yeah, so many people weld lawnmowers. If by structural, you mean to code, inspected, and as per blueprints, there is a massive amount of fabrication and welding that does not need to meet those standards. With the strength of welds vs. other mechanical fasteners, many items have far more weld than necessary. I do not like the splatter but with lincoln wire and a good miller mig machine, it is tolerable. Stick is also not splatter free . The repairs I have done on trash enclosure gates, doors over access ladders, brackets, and other common items around businesses have held up well. Like all processes, there is a time and place, other than just welding lawnmowers. Or, maybe you think any welding not on a large construction job isn't serious welding.
No offense to farmers but John’s mechanical, material, processes, metallurgical etc is way beyond the school of hard knocks. Ive worked aero engine design and manufacture all my working career and his terms and knowledge equal guys that really - really were well educated and experienced. John farming and using his skills makes this one of my fav you tube sites.
@@mrxmry3264Do people still watch Abom? Is he machining again instead of showcasing all the toys he got from sponsors? I don't mind sponsors if those enable content creators to create the content I came to the channel for, but he stopped machining once the toys came rolling in. He doesn't owe me anything of course, he doesn't even know me, but I stopped watching.
I think you know why it cracked out now. It was relatively easy to bend with your wrench and you could see the whole thing flexing. The guy above mentioned about plating over the existing which sounds like a good idea. Still watching here so looking forward to see how it goes. Love your vids 👍.
I need to thank you for these videos. I always said I would retire when I fall from a high ladder and break my neck. Well, that did not happen, and my wrenching days are long past. And most of what you do is beyond the basic mechanics I did on printing presses. The problem is, I am 70 years old, and I still wake up at 1 AM just as I have always done. And without problems I need to solve later in the day, well it's like revving the engine without tires on the machine. All noise and no work. But watching your videos at 1 AM, gives me an opportunity to observe, learn, think, and maintain my sanity! At least I feel like I am doing something! Words fall far short of the gratitude brother! I asked my wife to play several of your videos on a flat screen at my funeral. She thinks I am nuts! When I insisted that is what I wanted, she ran away screaming! Nice peaceful afternoon! (Not really, she knew I was a nut'zoid when she married me!) LOL!
I can relate to your statement. I'm 61 and I don't wrench much any more. My mind still chugs along. I left being a mechanic to be a PC and Network/Firewall tech. I still work on those a good bit. Keep going, one step at a time.
@BCGray10xAn old guy once told me the secret is to keep moving so whenever the grim reaper looks for you he is told, "Oh ya, he was here yesterday!" LOL
Another quick tip that can really help in situations like this, use an angle grinder with a cut off disc to score the cracks then grind them out with your burr, it's creates a pilot channel to guide your burr along, and if you do it before you clean up the face then it's a lot easier to keep track of where the crack is without it being a requirement to use crack detector. For bigger straighter fractures, using the cutoff wheel to just basically cut a v as if you were cutting a notch in a tree saves you a lot of time with the burr.
Hi John. Probably you need a small air-arc gounging kit for future repairs to make your life easier, instead of grinding old cracked weld that much. Take care! See you next week!
I think the hardest thing for people to understand is the thought process behind a good repair. In my opinion you do a great job showing how you go about it. Keep up the great work!
Those are classic stress cracks caused by cyclic loading of the steel frame. As the load goes on & off the wheel hubs, the steel underneath flexes back & forth, and eventually cracks. The loader hasn't been dropped. The stress cracks on the front left hub eventually got so bad that they joined up to form a big 'smiley face' and the steel plate peeled outwards with the hub still attached. May have have wrecked the original hub in the process.
I think it was just wear and tear from use. I don't think it fell off a trailer. I'm a pretty experienced mechanic but I always learn something from your videos. You do a thorough job with every repair. 👍
Hi John, I’m glad you read most of the comments even if you can’t answer them all. A couple of positive things I wanted to point out. It was good the steel was only 5mm, can you imagine trying to straighten that flange if it was 1/2” plate. You were lucky enough to be able to get it up on the hoist, it would have been so much harder if it was just on stands. You were able to do the work yourself because that sort of repair gets expensive really quickly if you have to pay someone else to do it. As you pointed out this repair was almost free, just a lot of your time but no money spent on expensive parts. As for the “farmer repair”, it’s exactly how I would have done it, the machine has effectively retired as a serious work horse and what you will be doing with it will be very easy compared to its previous work. Why spend time and money on repairs it won’t need? I still think you got a fantastic deal and once you have it sorted it’ll see you out. Cheers mate, Stuart 🇦🇺
Pragmatic repairs… The best part of this channel is that you’re not just a parts changer … You actually fix stuff… building your own shim washers etc. wow!!! Love this guy… support this mission … don’t change !!!!! as you grow and money up from social media sites…
Love how you never cuss or get angry despite something like forgetting the o-ring haha - that would send me up a wall at myself. You always take it in stride and with humor! A great trait. Been watching you since the beginning days and I look forward to it every Friday now. Thank you sir!
Hello John, usually when I weld on something that has held any type of flammable liquid , I first fill it with inert gas from a an exhaust pipe from a vehicle or a small Gas engine. An old garden hose will work.
Hey Farm Craft, I am a Lead Durability test engineer for a major OEM truck manufacturer. This is the kind of stuff I deal with on a daily basis, however we normally test for this stuff before the products hit the market. The cracks are definitely a durability fatigue issue that New Holland didn't catch before they released a product. In the mid 90's the FEA wasn't where it is now and its very probable that they hub crack issue wasn't detected during product development. As mentioned before they are a fatigue crack that occur when you apply cyclical load much lower than the yield stress of the material over and over. I don't think it is a coincidence that they happened at the bottom of the studs. Most likely you stress that area during turning as the wheel have a side load during turning. You did a good job fixing it. It will return if you use it a lot, but most likely the amount you use it, they will be fine. Also didn't you say it was on pavement before? I think that would be worse case over using in dirt. FEA really helps us today to identify where the high stresses occur as well as more sophisticated product development cycles and accelerated testing
John, got a tip for your vertical up welding. Draw a triangle with your bead as you move upwards, hirizontal across the joint, up at an angle to the center of the joint, down at an angle toward the edge of the start of the horizontal. Rinse and repeat, slowly climbing as you go, keeping a steady bead as you go without stopping. Give it some practice runs on some scrap. A good friend of mine that worked for Manitowoc cranes taught that move years ago,hopefully, it can be a tip for you to use also. Thank you for all the good videos/movies. I look forward to them all.
I pride myself in being able to refurbish just about anything but my hat is off to you time and time again. I recently bought a worn out Bobcat 743 and was thinking about using my 9000 pound two post lift to raise it. I am so glad I saw this video. Thanks for showing the skid loader jumping off the jack stands. You may have saved me from serious injury or even death.
I watch you because you are not afraid of work, and you tend to go further into a project or repair than most would. There is the phrase that it is good enough for who it is for and that is the point you are at with the drive housings. You did a much better job than a lot of others would do and will be structurally sound for normal use. The fact that there is a TSB about that area being weak when it is used exactly how it was used for most of the machine's life before you got it. Your repairs will be perfectly functional and if not, you'll fix it.
Your idea of what a "farm fix" constitutes is far better than what I saw at my family's JD dealership when the "fix" failed and they finally brought it to us to make something happen. So, well done sir! What you are doing is what my dad would have done for the farmers who did not have the skill and knowledge to fix something that way without throwing money at it, which the farmers in upstate NY did not have. Bought some T-shirts today too! Excited to wear them.
Retired Boilermaker here (welder/plater) from over the pond. As a farmer, you make a pretty good fabber. Nothing wrong with your logic, equipment or skill set. Nice work, also entertaining! 👍 37:00 The phrase you might be looking for is one I use all the time. "Fit for purpose". 🤠 39:30 Vertical up is the way to go (as you know) for good penetration. Down is sometimes called "washing", & doesn't give you good penetration. At all. It IS a skill, though, good for thin plate, but not good for thick. Drop your current, so you can weave a little bit, from side to side to put the heat into the parent metal. You'll still get excellent pen. It's all about YOU controlling the weld, not the other way around! 😂👍
The cracks are the bonus content that you didn't know that you bought. I bet your repairs will serve you well if you treat it with care. If they don't last, still more content with the later repair video with the added plates. With nearly 47k views after 7 hours, I am not the only one who appreciates your machining skills and well thought out repairs.
I used to run a wood recycling yard, had two new Holland skid steers. As for the cracks more than likely caused by operators bouncing the machine. Or hopping. Had to scrape one operator tore one hub off. Also had stress cracks in the booms. Hopefully this helps
Just wanted to say this is one of my favorite channels and if possible would love more content. In a stressful world these videos are an excellent distraction and decompression tool, keep up the awesome videos
I'm an old guy, was trained as a Mechanical Engineer. Your cracks are simply metal fatigue. Best repair is a plate. Likely newer units are thicker plate. Catastrophic singular evens would break or bend the metal. If you could see the inside of the crack you'd likely see classic clamshell failure markers. Your deal is par for an old machine (not counting travel time/expense). Locally, a john deere 318 (double capacity yours?) Sold at farm auction for $7500 out the door.
+1 on fatigue. You also said the machine was run on concrete, which raises the stress significantly. Toss in counterweights and whatever heavy stuff they were moving and it's no surprise. The LF was probably tear out from the cracks meeting up, I doubt it was from a fall or impact. The studs aren't helping by creating a stress concentration there either, mild steel fatigue limit is tiny. A couple days work too save a pile of cash is still a good deal for low hours.
+1. The actual problem with that is the poor design. And typically poor design is compensated with thicker plate. "Just put thicker plate on it until it does not crack..." There should be stiffeners on that plate area. Now there is only plate, and studs and wheel carrier which acts as a leverage arm. And it is only a matter of time before fatigue cracks will appear. So nothing special, no accidents or drop downs etc. (BR, Steel structure designer)
@@deadslow201Take a look where the mounting bolts come through the frame, the knurl on the bolts is sticking through. If you laid out a precisely drilled doubler plate to press on (and you'd need to build an elaborate rig with multiple porta powers and a strongback brace built) then tightly and evenly pressed it onto those knurls and then skip welded around the plate it'd strengthen that machine to kingdom come. You'd need to make those splines stick out further though, lathe job.
Sure wish I wasn't so scared of math and physics! Those are the two things that kept me away from becoming a ME!! I have many other skills that tend towards the area.
Every time I think you should do this, a few seconds later you do it. Drill the ends of the cracks, back the welds in the cracks etc. John, you are an amazing craftsman.
Wind is the reason flux-core wire and stick are still essential for farm welders... I haven't used gas in my wire-feed welder since I bought it, just to check that it worked as a MIG. It's been flux-core ever since. I might have used gas more if I lived somewhere it was easier to acquire, or had a shop big enough to get larger machinery inside of 😅 but still... Wind? Flux-core wire. 🎉
The cracks along the chain housing are a common problem with lot of the skidsteers even the newer models have the same issue and you fixed it the same way how I would.
Damn JOHN, I could watch your channel all day. You tackle anything, and aren’t afraid to get your hands dirty. Your technical and mechanical skills are first rate! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Jon....All looks "PERFECT!" to me. Your patience always astounds me, you just laugh it off. What great attitude to have. Love your content. Thanks for sharing! ♥
That o-ring you left off after putting it back together hits hard, reminds me of my last motorcycle clutch job where I left one spring/spacer off that was the size of an o-ring. I did not realize it until I had put the case cover back on.
In my younger years I worked on a lot of New Holland skid steer loaders. The small frame loaders used the chain cases for the hydraulic tank. If loader had a hydraulic failure, we would put magnets in the chain case to catch any stray metal in the chain case. You could do the same thing to help catch any metal that you create during your repair.
John, I love that you let us see the mistakes. We all make them and it is nice to see you just deal with it as they come along. As far as the cause of the cracks I think a thing to consider is that they felt the need to put the extra rear weights on it so you know they were loading the bucket heavy on a regular basis. Combine that with tight turns on concrete and you know that the 0.200" frame is going to flex.
A couple of welding suggestions. If you use a backwelding technique it changes the stress on the workpiece. Like weld 2 inches from the top up to the top end, then 2 inches below the previous start and overlap just a bit, rinse and repeat. You won't have stress opening the welds and causing leaks. Then, if you spread some peanut oil on adjacent metal surfaces, the weld splatter won't stick. It may require more oil as you go. A spritz bottle works nicely. Threads and hydraulics don't like splatter.
Hey Jon, just a suggestion...for backing behind holes/cracks when you are welding them up, you can wedge a piece of flat copper behind those holes with a jack or jack bolt, and weld without the issue of bulging weld beads inside. Then, mag-drill them...could maybe fix those loose studs? Nice work BTW, should last a lifetime.🐮
Another great video John, Thanks for sharing. We used to hire out skid steers many years ago and these suffered with similar issues with the front wheels falling off sheared studs and fatigued steel. The issue we had was caused by operating the machine on tarmac roads with lots of grip on the front tyres especially in summer when the black top(Tarmac)was hot and sticky and with a heavy load in the bucket it did not allow the front wheels to slide easy so it had a lot of sideways stress load. Not quite so bad on the rear wheels. I spent many days on these repairs and also had to change the strength of the studs in the front drive hubs to 12.9 carbon steel high tensile type, This seemed to help with the studs breaking and prolonged the use but the sides still cracked and I had to over plate them in the end with thicker steel plate. Good luck with this project and I think it should be ok now as you will be using this on soft dirt around the farm so less stress on the gear cases.
My guess for what caused the damage to the wheel hub mounts is that it was being lifted on a crane and the rigging failed and dropped it back to the ground. Makes much more sense to be a vertical impact than any horizontal impact with the location and orientation of the cracking.
Holding a block of brass behind those holes will allow you to weld the holes full and their will not be any steel stuck in the way after words, I have been welding for 45 years and have been TSSA certified for pressure vessel for over half of that. When you weld with a MIG try to hold the gun on a 45 degree angle and push in the direction the gun is pointing, dragging back over a unwelded and preheated area with cause your welds to be cool and that why you get undercut. This will make you a better welder, I have tickets in ARC, MIG, and TIG processes in multiple positions from over head to horizontal.
This is like hanging with the gang. One or a few doing a repair/renovation while the rest look on. Don't know why but I love watching your cows and Dozer!
Those stress crack were from many hours of herky jerky operation on hard surface such as asphalt,with 'no give' that created stresses needed to produce the cracks you have ,they would not have been created by an impact such as falling off a trailer or being hit . that type of cracking is caused by many hours of repeat impacting stresses
+1. The actual problem with that is the poor design. And typically poor design is compensated with thicker plate. "Just put thicker plate on it until it does not crack..." There should be stiffeners on that plate area. Now there is only plate, and studs and wheel carrier which acts as a leverage arm. And it is only a matter of time before fatigue cracks will appear. So nothing special, no accidents or drop downs etc.
I'm in 2:38m mark and I know your pain 1982 case 1835 I know all about the chain case fun fun ! You John make me feel not so alone with machine problems 😂
Only at 13:17 so far but you may want to consider keeping a spool of flux-core wire around for just such an occasion. I keep an old Chicago Electric MIG 170 loaded with it all the time for a go to outdoor machine!
I just wanted to let you know how much my wife and I enjoy your hijinx and how you overcome them. I hope sharing your difficulties eases the burden because we sure love your videos.
I was just noticing to on the spindles where they bolt on around the holes is a raised area like a built in washer. I believe that would have also contributed to the cracking. If it was flat right across that area it would have supported the frame better...I love how you dive into your projects and fix things right, this is my favorite channel.
Jonson! What a journey...enjoy your trouble shooting process. Very entertaining from this side of the screen.😅 Worth 1:45 of my morning almost every weekend! Thanks Jonson.
You could of also used some aluminum stock or Brass stock to put behind the whole while filing it and it wouldnt stick to the weld Jon 10:50 @FarmCraft101
To your credit John, when you take on a repair job, you fix it almost better than new. I'd agree with you about how much you did, you could always do the reinforcement plate later on if needed. Good work!
Hi was watching your video love the content … next time you have any cracks like that you should try to open them all the way up and you can use the back side of ceramic tile and tape it to the back side of the crack and weld it solid works every time
41:34 I applaud your commitment to doing a thorough job, your care, attention to detail and dedication is first class and what I wish every other DIY’er would strive towards. With that in mind I think you’ve gotten side tracked about the purpose of pressurizing the gear housing. I think your goal was to prevent the Valdez #2 from turning your farm into an ecological disaster due to all the leaking oil everywhere … Not making an airtight pressure vessel 😅. That said, since you already had it setup to find leaks there isn’t anything wrong about shoring them up, it’s more to point out that the oil leaks of concern would be occurring at or below the fill level and most any tiny leak above it could be ignored so long as water ingress wasn’t a concern. I tend to go the extra mile myself on my projects but lately I’ve been focusing on level of necessity to get my task finished expediently: very in line with you opting not to add reinforcing plates when the issue was acknowledged not as a defect in design but more as an extreme circumstance. Since it would be overkill for your intended purpose and most all future unanticipated tasks I think your idea of “good enough” is still leagues better than most shops would do.
38:00 If you did want to weld the holes, put a "chill block" in side behind the hole. Ideal is copper, but brass and aluminum are ok too. Weld won't stick to the chill block and it forms the molten steel weld material like a casting mold
On our farm we filled tanks that contained flammable fluids with inert gas before welding. We just used a clean idling gasoline engine's exhaust and never had any fires, nor mini-explosions and that includes when welding metal gas tanks. A local professional welder used inert gasses from a tank. Gasses like argon and nitrogen. Some people we know would even weld gas tanks that STILL contained gasoline using this technique.
Someone posted about using dry ice to give off CO. I might just be crazy enough to give the exhaust a try! I believe I'd turn in the switch from a distance! LoL 🤣😆
@@dans_Learning_Curve Yeah if you have a modern vehicle with a catalytic converter that's running good you get almost nothing but pure CO2 out the exhaust pipe So that would work really good!!
I'm always impressed at how knowledgeable you are about how to find issues and repair them. You should be proud of how self-sufficient you are! It's definitely inspirational to the rest of us.
Val is a good name that machine rolled off a trailer while being towed in the highway seen this before great video thanks John do what you think is right and what the wallet will afore
Old Val is coming along. I didn't expect so much work to get her serviceable! I still think I got a good deal though. What do you think? At least this repair didn't cost me money except for welding supplies. Have an awesome weekend everybody!
love the channel, you have a awesome weekend as well
Dropped from a crane? Maybe it use to be painted up like the General Lee? Idk man.
Dropped off some jack stands maybe?
Stress cracks over time. poor design. Should have been re-enforced on the inside from the factory, or thicker steel frame, what a shame.
@@chrispy3866 Given the weights and the foam filled tires it may be been overloaded regularly. That wouldn't help.
As a mechanical engineer that has designed off road equipment for almost 20 years I was going to type a summary about stress risers that would do crack exactly as try did caused by extended used on hard surfaces with ridgid tires. Remember you could have paid 12 to 15k then found these same cracks.
Forgetting to put the O ring on and having to take it back off is the "story of my life" Good on you for showing it :)
I felt that moment in my soul. Every. Damn. Time. I forget something.
In the electrical domain we have the equivalent of forgetting to thread the boot onto the cable before soldering the connector on... :)
I am guessing that those wheels where stuck by rust and they were pull off with another machine that cracked the steel frame. Just a thought
along with 3 trips to the hardware store... any good job requires it hahaha
@@HighPr00fI’m sure we’ve all done it in our respective trades/professions. That called protocol improvements. You’re doing a really great job John. 🇦🇺👋
That model New Holland was notorious for cracking out at the drive axles. The later machines that used heavier gauge steel which solved the problem. I fixed hundreds of them weld shop years ago when they were new to the market. We used 1/4" steal plate over top, which would move your wheels out a 1/2 inch. But it solved the problem.
@maddod2771 Hahaha! Dropped. Classic metal fatigue. Thank you for sharing your EXPERIENCE. I suggested your answer exactly as YOU KNOW his will crack again. YOU know how to fix them! A wider stance only makes it safer when Jon is brush mowing.
dropped maybe. I just realized it's use case they must have been hauling concrete with all those extra counterweights. just constant flexure in an area of high stress. Holes in steel plates have stress concentrations. They should have used thicker steel or a higher grade but obviously the fatigue life cycle was extremely short
Agreed, I’ve seen many with the same issues… luckily the internals aren’t damaged and the sprockets are still aligned.
The actual problem with that is the poor design. And typically poor design is compensated with thicker plate. "Just put thicker plate on it until it does not crack..." There should be stiffeners on that plate area. Now there is only plate, and studs and wheel carrier which acts as a leverage arm. And it is only a matter of time before fatigue cracks will appear.
Exactly the solution that came to my mind.
The early 565/665 were known for cracking. New Holland used to sell a kit to fix it. The newer machines have thicker metal.
This channel deserves more love.
I think He´s just fine.
Visiontrivia , you are right!!! Mr John takes us through a lot of adventures and projects. By far the most informative channel for the topics he works on. Very nice guy, one of the people who make you feel like you are in your own shop doing that work. The man definitely missed a good opportunity to be a teacher.
@@brian_2040 totally agree with you. Very genuine nice guy. I’m not into mechanics, but I learned a lot of skills from him that I can use to repair basic stuff around the house.
On the really bad area around the front left axel, I’d be tempted to cut the whole piece out and weld in new plate with new bolts! Opinions?
@@texasfly9925 Good enough for the Girls I go out with.
Stick welding is your out door friend! You’re doing a wonderful job getting this skid back on the farm.
Actually, flux core would have been ideal since he has a mig machine and I was really surprised he didn't just switch to it.....I'm not sure if he has a stick welder. While I can stick weld, I just hate the mess and changing out electrodes so only use it when I must and same goes for flux core although I have used plenty of that. Tig or mig with 75/25 for steel and of course argon and trimix for aluminum and stainless mig are my go to.
@CGT80 stick is the best for outside and contaminated areas, 7018. Flux core has his the same problem as hard wire. You're still dealing with shielded gas .
@@dougrector4412 Ummm, no. Dual shield still needs gas but flux core is the same as stick, just on a roll. It has worked fine for me in windy conditions, granted maybe stick does even better in the wind but I'm no expert on stick. I learned stick with 6013 as a teen and then 6010/11 in college welding classes. Most of my work is with material I can prep properly with various grinders, but I would use flux core or stick for areas that can not be preped.
I'm a journeyman welder ticketed in stick , wire, and tig. Gasless wire is not on the list for structure welding. I've tried it, and it's a splatter fest. It's for people that don't want a gas contract and are welding on lawnmowers...Sorry that's what it is.
@@dougrector4412 You sound like a typical egotistical male with a black and white view. Define structural welding.....yeah, so many people weld lawnmowers. If by structural, you mean to code, inspected, and as per blueprints, there is a massive amount of fabrication and welding that does not need to meet those standards. With the strength of welds vs. other mechanical fasteners, many items have far more weld than necessary. I do not like the splatter but with lincoln wire and a good miller mig machine, it is tolerable. Stick is also not splatter free . The repairs I have done on trash enclosure gates, doors over access ladders, brackets, and other common items around businesses have held up well. Like all processes, there is a time and place, other than just welding lawnmowers. Or, maybe you think any welding not on a large construction job isn't serious welding.
I would definitely add the 0.250” reinforcing plates on the front frame areas.
Each time I watch these, I am always amazed at John's skills. Mercy me, you are MUCH MORE than a farmer!
No offense to farmers but John’s mechanical, material, processes, metallurgical etc is way beyond the school of hard knocks. Ive worked aero engine design and manufacture all my working career and his terms and knowledge equal guys that really - really were well educated and experienced. John farming and using his skills makes this one of my fav you tube sites.
Mine too Mike.@@MikeZMonroe
What it takes (and then some) to be a "farmer" and actually make it these days.
Jon.
Im so glad you bought one of these! Now I have an example to follow if mine gives me the same troubles.
Thank you!
Never let perfection be the enemy of good.
Nice repair👍 OTC makes a nice pair of locking snap ring pliers
What a brilliant day, Cutting Edge Engineering in the morning, come home to FarmCraft101, Best start to a long weekend,
Only thing he’s missing is some arc gauging.
Now I gotta find CEE!!!
Don't forget abom79.
And then some Abom just to see all that new machinery that I can never afford. 😞
@@mrxmry3264Do people still watch Abom? Is he machining again instead of showcasing all the toys he got from sponsors? I don't mind sponsors if those enable content creators to create the content I came to the channel for, but he stopped machining once the toys came rolling in. He doesn't owe me anything of course, he doesn't even know me, but I stopped watching.
I think you know why it cracked out now. It was relatively easy to bend with your wrench and you could see the whole thing flexing.
The guy above mentioned about plating over the existing which sounds like a good idea. Still watching here so looking forward to see how it goes.
Love your vids 👍.
I need to thank you for these videos. I always said I would retire when I fall from a high ladder and break my neck. Well, that did not happen, and my wrenching days are long past. And most of what you do is beyond the basic mechanics I did on printing presses. The problem is, I am 70 years old, and I still wake up at 1 AM just as I have always done. And without problems I need to solve later in the day, well it's like revving the engine without tires on the machine. All noise and no work. But watching your videos at 1 AM, gives me an opportunity to observe, learn, think, and maintain my sanity! At least I feel like I am doing something! Words fall far short of the gratitude brother!
I asked my wife to play several of your videos on a flat screen at my funeral. She thinks I am nuts! When I insisted that is what I wanted, she ran away screaming! Nice peaceful afternoon! (Not really, she knew I was a nut'zoid when she married me!) LOL!
I can relate to your statement. I'm 61 and I don't wrench much any more. My mind still chugs along. I left being a mechanic to be a PC and Network/Firewall tech. I still work on those a good bit. Keep going, one step at a time.
@BCGray10xAn old guy once told me the secret is to keep moving so whenever the grim reaper looks for you he is told, "Oh ya, he was here yesterday!" LOL
Another quick tip that can really help in situations like this, use an angle grinder with a cut off disc to score the cracks then grind them out with your burr, it's creates a pilot channel to guide your burr along, and if you do it before you clean up the face then it's a lot easier to keep track of where the crack is without it being a requirement to use crack detector. For bigger straighter fractures, using the cutoff wheel to just basically cut a v as if you were cutting a notch in a tree saves you a lot of time with the burr.
Hi John. Probably you need a small air-arc gounging kit for future repairs to make your life easier, instead of grinding old cracked weld that much. Take care! See you next week!
IC Weld style
Not sure he'd want to go that route considering how concerned he was with catching the oil inside on fire.
This is seriously one of the best channels on YT. Funny, informative, interesting. Watched both these videos in the entirety, you did a great job.
I think the hardest thing for people to understand is the thought process behind a good repair. In my opinion you do a great job showing how you go about it. Keep up the great work!
Those are classic stress cracks caused by cyclic loading of the steel frame. As the load goes on & off the wheel hubs, the steel underneath flexes back & forth, and eventually cracks. The loader hasn't been dropped. The stress cracks on the front left hub eventually got so bad that they joined up to form a big 'smiley face' and the steel plate peeled outwards with the hub still attached. May have have wrecked the original hub in the process.
I think it was just wear and tear from use. I don't think it fell off a trailer. I'm a pretty experienced mechanic but I always learn something from your videos. You do a thorough job with every repair. 👍
Val is an example of why I love your channel. Excellent work.
Farmer fix is what gives world the food. That is good enough, you already spend some time on it.
John, you do things by the book.
Jon.
Hi John, I’m glad you read most of the comments even if you can’t answer them all. A couple of positive things I wanted to point out. It was good the steel was only 5mm, can you imagine trying to straighten that flange if it was 1/2” plate. You were lucky enough to be able to get it up on the hoist, it would have been so much harder if it was just on stands. You were able to do the work yourself because that sort of repair gets expensive really quickly if you have to pay someone else to do it. As you pointed out this repair was almost free, just a lot of your time but no money spent on expensive parts. As for the “farmer repair”, it’s exactly how I would have done it, the machine has effectively retired as a serious work horse and what you will be doing with it will be very easy compared to its previous work. Why spend time and money on repairs it won’t need? I still think you got a fantastic deal and once you have it sorted it’ll see you out. Cheers mate, Stuart 🇦🇺
Pragmatic repairs…
The best part of this channel is that you’re not just a parts changer …
You actually fix stuff… building your own shim washers etc. wow!!! Love this guy… support this mission … don’t change !!!!! as you grow and money up from social media sites…
Please remember to grease the axle hubs, they always get avoided when the tires are on the machine in the normal course of greasing.
Love how you never cuss or get angry despite something like forgetting the o-ring haha - that would send me up a wall at myself. You always take it in stride and with humor! A great trait. Been watching you since the beginning days and I look forward to it every Friday now. Thank you sir!
Editing is a wonderful thing for removing those bits! Lol! :-)
Hello John, usually when I weld on something that has held any type of flammable liquid , I first fill it with inert gas from a an exhaust pipe from a vehicle or a small Gas engine. An old garden hose will work.
It is so much fun to watch you struggle with your prizes to make them work. You do such a great job repairing them.
Great Job, That looks so Fun, I am doing the same thing to My 1974 John Deere, skidder.
Always a treat to spend an hour with you John
Hey Farm Craft, I am a Lead Durability test engineer for a major OEM truck manufacturer. This is the kind of stuff I deal with on a daily basis, however we normally test for this stuff before the products hit the market. The cracks are definitely a durability fatigue issue that New Holland didn't catch before they released a product. In the mid 90's the FEA wasn't where it is now and its very probable that they hub crack issue wasn't detected during product development. As mentioned before they are a fatigue crack that occur when you apply cyclical load much lower than the yield stress of the material over and over. I don't think it is a coincidence that they happened at the bottom of the studs. Most likely you stress that area during turning as the wheel have a side load during turning. You did a good job fixing it. It will return if you use it a lot, but most likely the amount you use it, they will be fine. Also didn't you say it was on pavement before? I think that would be worse case over using in dirt. FEA really helps us today to identify where the high stresses occur as well as more sophisticated product development cycles and accelerated testing
*gets home for lunch during work and sees a new Farm Craft video only 18 minutes old* Now that is good timing
You go home for lunch? Man, I need your job. Especially if you have time for an entire Jon video.
Farm Friday
5:30 Love the use of the hard drive magnets. They are very strong.
John, got a tip for your vertical up welding.
Draw a triangle with your bead as you move upwards, hirizontal across the joint, up at an angle to the center of the joint, down at an angle toward the edge of the start of the horizontal. Rinse and repeat, slowly climbing as you go, keeping a steady bead as you go without stopping.
Give it some practice runs on some scrap. A good friend of mine that worked for Manitowoc cranes taught that move years ago,hopefully, it can be a tip for you to use also. Thank you for all the good videos/movies. I look forward to them all.
Jon.
I pride myself in being able to refurbish just about anything but my hat is off to you time and time again. I recently bought a worn out Bobcat 743 and was thinking about using my 9000 pound two post lift to raise it. I am so glad I saw this video. Thanks for showing the skid loader jumping off the jack stands. You may have saved me from serious injury or even death.
Always a highlight of my week when there's a new video to watch! 😅
I watch you because you are not afraid of work, and you tend to go further into a project or repair than most would. There is the phrase that it is good enough for who it is for and that is the point you are at with the drive housings. You did a much better job than a lot of others would do and will be structurally sound for normal use. The fact that there is a TSB about that area being weak when it is used exactly how it was used for most of the machine's life before you got it. Your repairs will be perfectly functional and if not, you'll fix it.
Your idea of what a "farm fix" constitutes is far better than what I saw at my family's JD dealership when the "fix" failed and they finally brought it to us to make something happen. So, well done sir! What you are doing is what my dad would have done for the farmers who did not have the skill and knowledge to fix something that way without throwing money at it, which the farmers in upstate NY did not have. Bought some T-shirts today too! Excited to wear them.
Your tenacity is amazing. It keeps me coming back for more machine rehab. Thanks So much for all you do.
Retired Boilermaker here (welder/plater) from over the pond. As a farmer, you make a pretty good fabber. Nothing wrong with your logic, equipment or skill set. Nice work, also entertaining! 👍
37:00 The phrase you might be looking for is one I use all the time. "Fit for purpose". 🤠
39:30 Vertical up is the way to go (as you know) for good penetration. Down is sometimes called "washing", & doesn't give you good penetration. At all. It IS a skill, though, good for thin plate, but not good for thick. Drop your current, so you can weave a little bit, from side to side to put the heat into the parent metal. You'll still get excellent pen. It's all about YOU controlling the weld, not the other way around! 😂👍
The cracks are the bonus content that you didn't know that you bought. I bet your repairs will serve you well if you treat it with care. If they don't last, still more content with the later repair video with the added plates.
With nearly 47k views after 7 hours, I am not the only one who appreciates your machining skills and well thought out repairs.
I used to run a wood recycling yard, had two new Holland skid steers.
As for the cracks more than likely caused by operators bouncing the machine. Or hopping. Had to scrape one operator tore one hub off.
Also had stress cracks in the booms.
Hopefully this helps
I enjoy the farm breaks in between repair sessions. Really makes watching a one hour plus video easier. Thanks for all the effort.
I don't think I could ever call you a lazy bum. Keep up the perfect work!
Just wanted to say this is one of my favorite channels and if possible would love more content. In a stressful world these videos are an excellent distraction and decompression tool, keep up the awesome videos
It looks like it lost a fight with a D6 and just barely survived. I really admire your determination. You never seem to get too discouraged.
I'm an old guy, was trained as a Mechanical Engineer. Your cracks are simply metal fatigue. Best repair is a plate. Likely newer units are thicker plate. Catastrophic singular evens would break or bend the metal. If you could see the inside of the crack you'd likely see classic clamshell failure markers. Your deal is par for an old machine (not counting travel time/expense). Locally, a john deere 318 (double capacity yours?) Sold at farm auction for $7500 out the door.
+1 on fatigue. You also said the machine was run on concrete, which raises the stress significantly. Toss in counterweights and whatever heavy stuff they were moving and it's no surprise. The LF was probably tear out from the cracks meeting up, I doubt it was from a fall or impact. The studs aren't helping by creating a stress concentration there either, mild steel fatigue limit is tiny.
A couple days work too save a pile of cash is still a good deal for low hours.
Pondering whether you should anneal around where the cracks ended in the next crack job, thoughts?
+1. The actual problem with that is the poor design. And typically poor design is compensated with thicker plate. "Just put thicker plate on it until it does not crack..." There should be stiffeners on that plate area. Now there is only plate, and studs and wheel carrier which acts as a leverage arm. And it is only a matter of time before fatigue cracks will appear.
So nothing special, no accidents or drop downs etc.
(BR, Steel structure designer)
@@deadslow201Take a look where the mounting bolts come through the frame, the knurl on the bolts is sticking through. If you laid out a precisely drilled doubler plate to press on (and you'd need to build an elaborate rig with multiple porta powers and a strongback brace built) then tightly and evenly pressed it onto those knurls and then skip welded around the plate it'd strengthen that machine to kingdom come. You'd need to make those splines stick out further though, lathe job.
Sure wish I wasn't so scared of math and physics! Those are the two things that kept me away from becoming a ME!! I have many other skills that tend towards the area.
I think your farmer fix on the L/F was a good idea. You can always come back with 1/4” plate if you need to.
Every time I think you should do this, a few seconds later you do it. Drill the ends of the cracks, back the welds in the cracks etc. John, you are an amazing craftsman.
Jon.
I like the fact you include the mistakes and foibles in the content.
Keep upt he good work.
Wind is the reason flux-core wire and stick are still essential for farm welders... I haven't used gas in my wire-feed welder since I bought it, just to check that it worked as a MIG. It's been flux-core ever since. I might have used gas more if I lived somewhere it was easier to acquire, or had a shop big enough to get larger machinery inside of 😅 but still... Wind? Flux-core wire. 🎉
The cracks along the chain housing are a common problem with lot of the skidsteers even the newer models have the same issue and you fixed it the same way how I would.
Damn JOHN, I could watch your channel all day. You tackle anything, and aren’t afraid to get your hands dirty. Your technical and mechanical skills are first rate! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Those hard drive magnets are super handy. I'm an IT guy as well as a tinkerer so I have a bunch of them
Jon....All looks "PERFECT!" to me. Your patience always astounds me, you just laugh it off. What great attitude to have. Love your content. Thanks for sharing! ♥
That o-ring you left off after putting it back together hits hard, reminds me of my last motorcycle clutch job where I left one spring/spacer off that was the size of an o-ring. I did not realize it until I had put the case cover back on.
Reminds me why I don't want to do this kind of stuff anymore. But fun to watch someone else.
In my younger years I worked on a lot of New Holland skid steer loaders. The small frame loaders used the chain cases for the hydraulic tank. If loader had a hydraulic failure, we would put magnets in the chain case to catch any stray metal in the chain case. You could do the same thing to help catch any metal that you create during your repair.
John, I love that you let us see the mistakes. We all make them and it is nice to see you just deal with it as they come along. As far as the cause of the cracks I think a thing to consider is that they felt the need to put the extra rear weights on it so you know they were loading the bucket heavy on a regular basis. Combine that with tight turns on concrete and you know that the 0.200" frame is going to flex.
Jon.
Hi John, farmer fix will be good enough. for what you want to use it for mate, Cheers from Western Australia. 👍🤠
Your channel has quickly become my favorite. Damn you're a cool dude.
This is a great channel. I love your content. John, keep it up.
From Ray in the UK.
Always a joy and highlight of my viewing week to see a new FC101. Thank you John for some of the best content on YT.
You are a very intelligent man. Excellent video.
A couple of welding suggestions. If you use a backwelding technique it changes the stress on the workpiece. Like weld 2 inches from the top up to the top end, then 2 inches below the previous start and overlap just a bit, rinse and repeat. You won't have stress opening the welds and causing leaks. Then, if you spread some peanut oil on adjacent metal surfaces, the weld splatter won't stick. It may require more oil as you go. A spritz bottle works nicely. Threads and hydraulics don't like splatter.
Looks great, Jon. Your videos help me think about problem solving in new ways. Really appreciate it.
36:56 the farmer's ways the best way in my eyes the farmer is the foundations of society
Hey Jon, just a suggestion...for backing behind holes/cracks when you are welding them up, you can wedge a piece of flat copper behind those holes with a jack or jack bolt, and weld without the issue of bulging weld beads inside. Then, mag-drill them...could maybe fix those loose studs? Nice work BTW, should last a lifetime.🐮
Jon.
Another great video John, Thanks for sharing. We used to hire out skid steers many years ago and these suffered with similar issues with the front wheels falling off sheared studs and fatigued steel. The issue we had was caused by operating the machine on tarmac roads with lots of grip on the front tyres especially in summer when the black top(Tarmac)was hot and sticky and with a heavy load in the bucket it did not allow the front wheels to slide easy so it had a lot of sideways stress load. Not quite so bad on the rear wheels. I spent many days on these repairs and also had to change the strength of the studs in the front drive hubs to 12.9 carbon steel high tensile type, This seemed to help with the studs breaking and prolonged the use but the sides still cracked and I had to over plate them in the end with thicker steel plate. Good luck with this project and I think it should be ok now as you will be using this on soft dirt around the farm so less stress on the gear cases.
My guess for what caused the damage to the wheel hub mounts is that it was being lifted on a crane and the rigging failed and dropped it back to the ground. Makes much more sense to be a vertical impact than any horizontal impact with the location and orientation of the cracking.
Either that or the first thing that came to mind was a rollover event. Would explain the left front being so much worse.
7:28 Smart man... I always like to make sure I remember which way up my skid steer goes.
Holding a block of brass behind those holes will allow you to weld the holes full and their will not be any steel stuck in the way after words, I have been welding for 45 years and have been TSSA certified for pressure vessel for over half of that. When you weld with a MIG try to hold the gun on a 45 degree angle and push in the direction the gun is pointing, dragging back over a unwelded and preheated area with cause your welds to be cool and that why you get undercut. This will make you a better welder, I have tickets in ARC, MIG, and TIG processes in multiple positions from over head to horizontal.
This is like hanging with the gang. One or a few doing a repair/renovation while the rest look on. Don't know why but I love watching your cows and Dozer!
Those stress crack were from many hours of herky jerky operation on hard surface such as asphalt,with 'no give' that created stresses needed to produce the cracks you have ,they would not have been created by an impact such as falling off a trailer or being hit . that type of cracking is caused by many hours of repeat impacting stresses
+1. The actual problem with that is the poor design. And typically poor design is compensated with thicker plate. "Just put thicker plate on it until it does not crack..." There should be stiffeners on that plate area. Now there is only plate, and studs and wheel carrier which acts as a leverage arm. And it is only a matter of time before fatigue cracks will appear.
So nothing special, no accidents or drop downs etc.
@@deadslow201But what can Jon do to improve it now?
@@erik_dk842Add two vertical stiffeners on the side of the wheel carrier, that would take the most of the flex of the plate away.
I'm in 2:38m mark and I know your pain 1982 case 1835 I know all about the chain case fun fun ! You John make me feel not so alone with machine problems 😂
Val, huh? Good name! Val is going to be another fun project. I can't wait to see what happens in the video. Have a good weekend, John From Farmcraft!
Jon.
Only at 13:17 so far but you may want to consider keeping a spool of flux-core wire around for just such an occasion. I keep an old Chicago Electric MIG 170 loaded with it all the time for a go to outdoor machine!
I think that it was dropped at some point. All of the damage seems to be related to it landing on the wheels. Great repairs as always man.
After all these years and videos I know I shouldn't be but I am still constantly amazed in you ability to fix anything!
Woo hoo, new vid. Love watching someone else do work, good work.
I just wanted to let you know how much my wife and I enjoy your hijinx and how you overcome them. I hope sharing your difficulties eases the burden because we sure love your videos.
I was just noticing to on the spindles where they bolt on around the holes is a raised area like a built in washer. I believe that would have also contributed to the cracking. If it was flat right across that area it would have supported the frame better...I love how you dive into your projects and fix things right, this is my favorite channel.
Jonson! What a journey...enjoy your trouble shooting process. Very entertaining from this side of the screen.😅
Worth 1:45 of my morning almost every weekend!
Thanks Jonson.
You could of also used some aluminum stock or Brass stock to put behind the whole while filing it and it wouldnt stick to the weld Jon 10:50 @FarmCraft101
Install the reinforcing plate --- don't wait !!!- The time savings will be massive and you won't have to deal with it again.
Hello from Moosomin, Saskatchewan, Canada great videos thanks for sharing with all of us 😊
Throw a couple of chunks of dry ice in each side oil chamber to ensure no fire, and to cool off your iced tea (unsweetened).
CO2 filling with the dry ice, good idea
@@rickwensel2313 I keep a co2 tank at the shop for purging the KFB tanks lol
To your credit John, when you take on a repair job, you fix it almost better than new. I'd agree with you about how much you did, you could always do the reinforcement plate later on if needed. Good work!
Hi was watching your video love the content … next time you have any cracks like that you should try to open them all the way up and you can use the back side of ceramic tile and tape it to the back side of the crack and weld it solid works every time
That is a good suggestion they have a product called ceramic weld backing tape that does exactly as you describe.
41:34 I applaud your commitment to doing a thorough job, your care, attention to detail and dedication is first class and what I wish every other DIY’er would strive towards. With that in mind I think you’ve gotten side tracked about the purpose of pressurizing the gear housing. I think your goal was to prevent the Valdez #2 from turning your farm into an ecological disaster due to all the leaking oil everywhere … Not making an airtight pressure vessel 😅.
That said, since you already had it setup to find leaks there isn’t anything wrong about shoring them up, it’s more to point out that the oil leaks of concern would be occurring at or below the fill level and most any tiny leak above it could be ignored so long as water ingress wasn’t a concern.
I tend to go the extra mile myself on my projects but lately I’ve been focusing on level of necessity to get my task finished expediently: very in line with you opting not to add reinforcing plates when the issue was acknowledged not as a defect in design but more as an extreme circumstance. Since it would be overkill for your intended purpose and most all future unanticipated tasks I think your idea of “good enough” is still leagues better than most shops would do.
Hochachtung vor dieser Arbeit. Das hätte nicht jeder geschafft. Gute Arbeit.
Your planned fix seems quite reasonable for future expected use.
This video saved my day! Thanks!
38:00 If you did want to weld the holes, put a "chill block" in side behind the hole.
Ideal is copper, but brass and aluminum are ok too.
Weld won't stick to the chill block and it forms the molten steel weld material like a casting mold
On our farm we filled tanks that contained flammable fluids with inert gas before welding.
We just used a clean idling gasoline engine's exhaust and never had any fires, nor mini-explosions and that includes when welding metal gas tanks.
A local professional welder used inert gasses from a tank. Gasses like argon and nitrogen.
Some people we know would even weld gas tanks that STILL contained gasoline using this technique.
Someone posted about using dry ice to give off CO. I might just be crazy enough to give the exhaust a try! I believe I'd turn in the switch from a distance! LoL 🤣😆
@@dans_Learning_Curve
Yeah if you have a modern vehicle with a catalytic converter that's running good you get almost nothing but pure CO2 out the exhaust pipe So that would work really good!!
I'm always impressed at how knowledgeable you are about how to find issues and repair them. You should be proud of how self-sufficient you are! It's definitely inspirational to the rest of us.
"The Vadez" is perfect - go with that.
37:08 That hand held bench grinder is impressive.
Val is a good name that machine rolled off a trailer while being towed in the highway seen this before great video thanks John do what you think is right and what the wallet will afore
Jon.