Amazing Detailed Miniatures But Is It Worth the Wait?
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- Опубліковано 9 лют 2022
- Getting the most out of your 3d printer takes time to set up and the prints take alot longer to print but is that extra Sharpness and detail worth it when you paint them and can you tell the diffrence?
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Firstly it’s great to see you and Josh working together. I don’t have a printer, so my personal thoughts are that. I couldn’t find which miniature was better. The details on all the miniatures are incredible and you and Josh’s paints work is awesome fabulous video Luke.
Your b roll is always so lovely. Gives your videos such a relaxing vibe. A treat for the eyes.
I couldn’t see which miniature was better, they were all 4 awesome. Good to see you and Josh working on a project.
Awesome video!! and those models daaaaamn so good
As long as it's a noticeable difference, then sure, higher resolution, every time.
Coming from FDM printing and it's 30+ hour prints I'm kinda used to lengthy prints.
I mean what difference does it make if it takes 1h or 10h to print a tray of minis, as long as you love the result? After all, when you print for yourself, it's quality over quantity every time.
Great vid as always! (-:
Hehe same here.i usee too much Fdm too. So if an Sla print is not 2 days long (and it cant be) it never too long for me 🥳
Awesome video, all the details on those minis, spectacular sculpts! I loved the blood splatter on your Pig Butcher A Luke!
Insane Stuff!
I think that for minis that doesnt have that finer details it would matter to bring that small layer size. For the Cripta models I really can see the difference that a smaller print layer can make.
Great vid! I use an Anycubic Photon mono so all I can do is 0.05. As a gamer I’m happy with this detail as it’s only being pushed around the table and the details are enough to look great at arms length. If I were to paint minis at a competitive level then 0.03 or lower would be essential, and then I would push to get the Phrozen 8k. As to which printed Pig Butcher is which I really couldn’t tell, both look awesome under paint!
Oh hey I had no idea layer height made noticeable difference,I'll actually turn mine way down from 0.05 because I just didn't know what it did.
Couldn't care less if it means I have to wait longer for the prints to come out considering how I've already spent quite a lot of time sanding all flat surfaces to get rid of layer lines.
Some very good close-up pictures, especially on the dwarf there, didn't expect it to be such a contrasting difference!
Great video! Joined the kickstarter for the Anycubic Ultra and am just waiting... and waiting...
Wow amazing details, I didn't know the cripta , but now I will buy all the miniatures 🔥🔥🔥
I guess it comes down to what one wants detail wise. I normally do 6mm to 10mm stuff, so while details are great, the size doesn't always show everything. Larger ones I think will come down to what a person wants.
I always like to print at 0.2 with a little bit of antialiasing. I can’t stand to see layer lines especially on flat surfaces.
You can do that? Does that soften the details?
Fantastic video topic and examples!!
Awesome video. Cripta rules!
Hey. Great video. There’s a massive frustration when watching these videos: I don’t have the space, ventilation or safe space for the chemicals to have a 3D printer. It would be great to know if there are print services out there and also what to look out for and ask for. The combination or resin types and needing to know what layer size makes for the best model is very intimidating
Dude another awesome vid! Can you tell us a bit more about the wash? As in using meths, is there any info you can give on your results? Seems a nice and easy alternative to use that can be picked up in nearly every diy shop
Looking forward to getting my Sonic Mini 8K, which I bought based on your videos. Seeing all these cool models has me excited. Great to see what kind of setting are worth aiming for.
@@GeekGamingScenics Thanks for the settings. Excited to get started! Returning to wargaming after 20 years away, your videos have been really motivating. Thanks for all your great work.
I've been printing at 0.2 since I bought my printer because I just wanted to go as high Res as I could. Having seen this, and how I used them (they last a few games before the kids using them break them and I start again), I'll definitely be dropping to 0.04 or 0.05 to same myself some print time.
The detail on that cloth is crazy.
wonderful miniatures!!
I often run my fdm printer at 0.05 layer height and get some pretty decent minis out of it. Running an sla at 0.02 using organic material like resin should be buttery smooth and well worth the extra time printing
Hey Luke,
Congrats on your Brecourt Manor build video and your channel making the finals of the LWTV awards.
Much deserved.
I apologise if I missed it but what exposure time are you printing at for the 0.02? I find with smaller layer heights that lowering the exposure time helps with better detail also
I've been printing at 0.03 on my Photon (and later Mono X) since I started. Works great for me.
I'm trying to get back into printing now that things have come along a bit more (last printer was a Photon S back when it was new). It seems like you've had good results with the Phrozen Sonic Mini and the Uniz Ibee, any advice on getting started with those printers, settings, or which is a better deal at this point? Thanks, nice video as always.
Insane Miniatures!!!
Awesome comparison Luke. I'm definitely going to go for the 0.02mm as time isn't important to me :)
I like what I'm getting with 0.3. Feel like the layer lines are just visible with the naked eye at 0.5 so going a little bit lower is good enough for me
If you just want to slap some paint on then layer lines like this aren't a huge issue. But if you like using more advanced techniques or finishes it can really make a negative impact.
This said, dialing in settings and using different resins has a big impact on the end result for layer lines as well. When I first started I was using esun black resin, and boy howdy was that layer line city. Using a mixed Siraya tech resin and then all of a sudden I was getting slightly softer models layer line wise thanks to the light bleed (marginal lost detail sharpness, but gained back by not having the harsh layer lines even at 0.02mm)
Из личного опыта я понял, что при печати 0,05 лесенка слоёв скрывается за рельефом и видно её только на больших плоскостях. Она счишается скальпелем моментально и получается гораздо быстрее, чем печать при 0,02 слое. Но тут каждому своё - если ставить печать на ночь, то можно и с 0,02.
If I'm printing an army/set all in a few shots, then yeah i'll add a few more hours to the print time if it ensures they come out nice and crispy.
The frequency is amazing
Thank you for the research you did..I stay at 0.05 atm..but will take your advice into acount. The xtra time it takes is whst makes me nervous - more layers means more pull on the FEP..and higher chance of it tearing..or geting punctured. I do have a screen protector..but id rather not do it if i dont have to..😑 Going down to 0.04..Might give it a try..👍
I've got like 6 bottles of resin though my printer at .03 and .025 and the only damage to the FEP was caused by my not making sure the vat was clean before printing again.
For me, the extra detail is absolutly worth it. True, the little inperfections on the 0.05 setting might not be obvious, but i will know they are there and it's going to bug me.
Also, i'm not in a rush with my hobby. I'd rather have a print take a week and be as perfect as it can be, than have it be done fast.
It's the visible layers that have put me off 3d printing thus far. But actually now, seeing how good the 0.02 looks i really feel the itch to get started myself.
You are useing a phrozen sonic mini 8k for these prints, do i see that correctly?
Hi Luke. An interesting video, as always. As an aside from it, I'm thinking about getting a resin printer BUT I have read that the screen only has a short life and it's cheaper to replace the printer rather than buying a new screen. Therefore I'm unsure about the wisdom of spending money that will be written off in no time. I do 1/35th scale AFV models and build dio's that would benefit from custom detailing on buildings etc. such as handrails, Ornate windows and so on. Can you throw any light on the life expectancy of the screens? Cheers.
I print at .4 but thats because my printer can't print anymore detail than that I really want to get an 8k printer so that I don't have to do as much post process on the model I print.. .I print figures so they tend to be larger in size but I still can see lots of 3d printed marks and I dot like that. So I am going to get a mini 8k eventually at least that is the hope anyways. I am currently printing on a Saturn and like I said I print at .4 but thats because even if I print at .2 the screen detail effects the model anyways so depending on orientation of the model and its details it doesn't really matter because there is lost detail on the XY anyways.
I couldn't tell the difference between a and b. I'd always ask to have the lower layer height and weight longer but I never rush to do something, it'll be ready when it's ready. :)
I just calculate in half days. Going to work or sleeping while printing, then postprocessing after the break. So, more detail is the way to go.
As I understand it, I would be able to print some 2000 trays with a mono screen printer. That's fine.
I like the sweater Luke!! Great video
I really want one for epic scale stuff. Smallifying Armageddon, Warmaster and even lord of the rings.
Even for basic wargame minis I go for .02 layer height. I never really see the reason behind people complain about the wait for prints, I just go paint something or do something else, it's done when it's done. I'd be waiting on shipping, etc otherwise as well.
Any comments on the print quality of the elegoo Jupiter in the background?
Hey up lad, I have just watched a video of yours talking about how you prefer the older style models because of the problems that you have with you eyes. Well I may be preaching to the choir here, but have you had a look at the Black Tree Design range, especially their Dwarfs. They are a bit notorious for their delivery standards, but if you are willing to put up with that, they are well worth a look. The style is very similar to a well known wargames company that have a shop across from the old ABC picture house in shaky Wakey. Another range that you may like is West Winds ,Dwarf Wars range, some lovely figures there. Anyway hope you find this useful, take care and keep up the good work.
I print a .025mm layer height. when printing at .05mm a wash or drybrush can pick up the layer lines and look weird.
Amazing video and amazing miniatures!!!
I print everything at 0.3 it's the sweet spot for me. Get super tiny details even in tiny minis with very small cuts in things even on a small scale so it is worth it also I don't see any lines anywhere...
When I first got my 3D printer I printed like mad. After 6 months I slowed down a bit but after a year I didn't have anymore space. I really wish I had started slow and printed only the stuff I loved. As such, I look back and think fast prints just don't matter to me. If I get better prints and it takes longer, who cares? I need to slow down anyway. Now if you run a print shop, you may disagree, but you don't have to worry about running out of space like I do.
Just toss the prints you don't care for? Nothing wrong with that as long as they're all cured
i'm interested in 3d printing, but i'm in two minds about it. for people who only like gaming i get it, for people who only like painting i kind of get it but not really as painters want the highest quality in general. for overall hobbiests like myself i don't get it, i like to build things, scrabbling through bits boxes and hacking and modifying stuff is all part of the fun. i'm interested to know where we would draw the line, as printers improve and become cheaper, faster, easier to use, higher quality, and eventually full colour, amazing quality, almost instant prints with no clean up or support removal needed, will it even be a hobby any more, or just a way to build up piles and piles of models to gather dust or sit in landfills when you get bored of them? even now, it's almost too easy to end up with gigabytes of stl files and a huge pile of minis to paint for a cheap price, printing your own pile of shame and constantly adding to the queue. personally, i'm thinking of getting one of the new 8k minis, but i won't use it for wargaming (i want to make a range of custom action figures haha)
I find the prints I can get off my mars 2 (2.5k res) are better quality than the warhammer figs I normally paint. if you want high quality just make sure your layers are .03 or lower and you won't see them after primer.
I've started printing a bunch of stuff to paint, as I prefer removing support to building a plastic kit (I HATE mould lines) and I still build and hack and glue stuff, but sometimes I print some small details, but I then glue the stuff together. got bins of little plants I put on my bases cause I just like making scenery the best.
Does anybody know what is the best free 3d software and Slicing Software as I have just purchased a harlot 1
Is the painting experience any different? Do the tiny layer lines interact differently with washes etc?
I find a drybush or wash will pick out layer lines at .05.
0.05 are Josh B Luke A. can see long steps on the blade of the knife on the Josh B. and its not present on Luke B so I'm guessing the extra blood obscured the effect.
What resolution did you print that “human finger” at? Looks well dodgy. 😉
Which resin are you using the most now, the 8K resin by Phorzen or zMUD? Is the 8K resin at all flexible? Cheers!
Cheers Luke .
~Luv~Luv~Luv~
🐺
Anything is better than giving money to GW.
Do you have stock at mirfield? Finally going down this weekend
Have you tried scaling down to 15mm or even 10mm scales?
I'm sometimes intimidated by too many details as I feel like I have to paint them all perfectly. I just started moving away from 50 µm to 30 µm and the difference is staggering.
I'm about to get a 3d resin printer but have absolutely no idea which one to get :c
I’m still wondering whether I have any justification to buy a 3d printer as I’m not a gamer (or anything like) but I am fascinated by the miniatures that are out there. So, my budget wouldn’t run to an 8K printer but I’ve seen the Phrozen Sonic Mini (2K) for sale at under £150 and wonder if this would be a good starter printer or whether its limitations would soon make it more frustrating than fun. Any suggestions welcome.
Wow, so beautiful. High quality models, those guys are insane.
Can you guys do an episode of Resin 3D printers vs Filament printers for model printing? For some reason I get the feeling I bought the wrong sort of printer :(
fdm has very limited set of models you can print and have them not look bad
only sutff ive found that looks ok are bfg ships and some tanks
Which printer for 150 quid do you recommend?
İ am planning to buy SM8K or! Prusa SL1S
Please help me about this decision. İ dont need speed actually. İ want the best detailed print
Have u even tried 0.01? Or is it not able to go that low for curiosity purposes I'm detail white I gkt an elegoo mars 3 gonna save up for the elegoo Jupiter.
But doing 0.02 details are insane I Mai ly only print miniatures so need thst detail and it incredible
In terms of mass battle figures unsurprisingly it looks like it would be worth it for your general but probably not for those 100 zombies.
Personally i find most of the files a bit too video high fantasy gamey though nice, for me to get a printer yet.
What does this mean for miniature producing companies?
Owt tha can't be arsed to do, gi it to Josh...
This is the way
Good minis are good minis are good minis.
Luke uses methylated spirits to clean his miniatures instead of isopropal alcohol? I didn't know that you could use methylated spirits to clean resin prints.
I print at 0.002 for up to 32mm scale, 0.004 up to 75mm and 0.005 for anything else.
Cripta
As someone who got I to printing 6 months ago, but only really done 3 weeks printing, Ive started to move away from the standard 0.05, and 0.02 is just insane comparatively.
I've paired 0.05 minis and they look amazing with a little sanding and then after paint. But 0.02 just allows so much more detail to be picked out. Truly amazing that these can fit on a desk.
Great video, keep up the good work :)
You're going to hate me. From a perspective of wanting to paint for display, 0.2 has too many print lines still. But then I've flagged up print lines on resin retail casts done from a 3D printed master done on lower settings than 0.2.
That's obviously not for gaming purposes though, and you know I'm a fussy, pedantic sod.
@Geek Gaming Scenics I saw the close up of the dwarf. Spotted the ripples on the shoulder plate on my phone screen. If I had the mini in hand I'd be more likely to spot them, even after painting. Only way I'm happy with them is sanding them away or filling and shaping them smooth. The bug the hell out of me when I paint. But, as I know too, I'm not the general market for miniature.
@Geek Gaming Scenics Milliput wash, Mr Surfacer, small sculpting tools, plenty of options. But this is also partly why I avoid home printing. It doesn't give me what I want quality wise.
Think b is the .2
The difference is do subtile that it's not worth it for me. I never use a loupe when playing wargames
Love your video's and telling style. but i have one improvement sugestion ad 4:45 you zoom in on miniatures but the resolution is really bad maybe upgrading your photo camera ;) sorry about the bitching. keep up the great work with those vids
EDIT: you excused yourself for the camera XD just need to watch the full vid before i bitch
@@GeekGamingScenics hahaha really nice. So zooming in will be a problem of the past. 🎉👍🏻
FEP film?
@@GeekGamingScenics did the printer come with the film?
I'm loving my 6k mono.. I've even ditched GW now I see I don't need them..at all. Oh well my gain is their loss
same and i've only got a mars 2. can't wait to get an 8k printer.
A= 0.5 and B =0.2
Can you recommend a 3d printer for approx £150 please? 😀
Ta muchly
A bad paint job ruins a good miniature but a good paint job can add detail to a bad mini
There's a lot of talk about 0.05 and 0.5. These are two very different numbers. Also he says 0.5 all the time but has 0.05 written in the vid. I'm a bit confused.
How do people generally buy these STLs? Do you sign up for the ‘introductory offer’ then immediately un-sub? If you don’t get the introductory offer the induvial STLs aren’t so cheap…
Luke’s featured a number of 3D studios but I can’t see normal folk subbing to them each month….
@@GeekGamingScenics The price seems really great but do people keep subbed month on month if you don't know what you're getting next? I assume you can un-sub and wait and see what the next month's offer is? You've shown some other really good studios but the monthy subs would start to add up...
@@GeekGamingScenics That's good to know but its a whole new eco system for me so I was interested in people's experinces.
I don't think it's worth it. I've done this same test handing friends models and asking them to pick 50um vs the 20um. It wasn't much better than 50/50 when just looking at them. Sure everyone picked the right one when looking at close-up and 4x pictures.
But painted on the table, all 20um does is triple your print time.
I find the layers at .05 are picked out by a drybrush or a wash. it is hard to tell just by looking until you get the paint on. or if you print a large flat surface close to 90 but not at 90, you get pretty obvious lines.
Hi
Josh cant tell the difference.
And I guess Luke B is the 0.2mm
Ohh @ 6:20 Im guessing Josh A is the 0.2
Lol I recently heard a video from a you tuber called Northern Exile ( really enjoy him) claim that 3d printing was 20 years behind GW. I think he might need to see this video.
Recently I printed a 60 mm miniature and compared it with 32 mm miniature.
I found that 60 mm size is better than 32 mm for the human eyes to enjoy the stunning details,
even though I can find similar details on 32 mm miniature with 4x magnifier, but that's a bit fool...
so I'm planning to reprint my troops with 60 mm size again...
I need a printer upgrade, that's what I think lol.
Haha you and me both. The Photon has been amazing but seeing what all these new printers can do is definitely exciting.
@@OnceinaSixSide For sure. I also want a litter bigger build volume then I have now as well
def quality of quantity for me.
You didn't discuss print times. The difference between a print taking 10 hrs, versus 3 is a huge difference. .05 for gaming models is more than enough. If you're doing golden brush, or bust painting you definitely want .02.
my printer sits there not printing a lot of the time, and a lot of the time I have a bunch of hours before i can even check on it again, so longer print times mean nothing to me. kind of annoying if i want something NOW, but thats a first world problem, lol.
Got to admit, after being a games workshop junkie for nearly 20 years, 3d printing has helped kick the addiction and also the impulse buying because of fomo. Keep up the great work Luke, loving these videos incorporating 3d printers🤟
sorry, just feels like commercials these days. love you, but unsubscribed.