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@@demen9497 might also be the fact I can't get to it from the right angle. my scredriver has a big grip so the tracking ring is in the way. I think I have a T5 bit somewhere that I can use.
Do yourself a huge favor and remove the ONE LAST SCREW (so all four of them) inside the battery compartment. This lets you disassemble the entire grip which makes it EASY to get the large ribbon cable back into its socket on the mainboard. In the video, he glosses over that "difficult part" (it is near impossible, actually). I wasted an hour trying figure out how to do it until I saw another video that had all the covers on the grip removed. Then I could easily see the ribbon cable and insert it without the grip trigger in the way.
I set my controller down at this part, glad I’m reading the reviews. Hopefully once I get back to repairing it, this ends up being the easy solution I need cause I rewatched that part of the video plenty of times!!
4:41 EVERYONE BE CAREFUL AT THIS PART!!!! I just destroyed my controlled at this part I was stuck on the locking mechanism for quite some time , if you are very good with taking this kind of stuff apart go for it but I’m warning you now this is a very tricky part and I was incredibly patient
@@jugghead-1975 But no carburetor looks like it was built by aliens, like the inside of this controller does. Now we know why you can't buy a knock-off version. They said they'd back-engineer the thumbstick part, and that was it 😄
I'd just like to say a big massive thanks. I appreciate the effort you've gone through to make this video, I'm heavy-handed. If it wasn't for people like you, bits would've been torn off 😆 Thanks.
I followed this guide step-by-step, not realising I had to watch another video to understand steps you cut out of this guide. It ended up breaking the controller's inner cables, for anyone in the future, I recommend either following a different guide or doing a lot more research before attempting this, as this guide expects you to already know how to assemble and disassemble the controller.
Thanks so much for this video, it was truly a life saver, we could never have put these controllers back together without this. Thanks again, and have fun gaming!
Good video but they’re were many parts you didn’t cover or skipped. It’s important if you’re gonna make a guide to show those parts. I had to eye ball the switch part and putting the screws back because you didn’t cover where certain screws go.
Thank you very much! My controller is working again! It took me about two hours, but carefully I managed. The most tricky part was the bigger flat cable. After I attached it, I put the battery back, but nothing worked, so I opened it again and carefully managed to get it in the right place and lock it. The screws in my controller needed two different sizes screw driver. I'm really happy now!
When we're talking about stick drift, it's when the stick moves you in a random direction (backwards in my case) on the first input and when stopping right? Or when you try to sprint in some games, but you'll be sprinting on and off due to it.
Took me about 55 minutes but i successfully did it first try. The controller is brand new! I advise anyone that wants to undertake this task that when removing the handle cover to unclamp the ribbon cable first! You will need straight tweezers which don't come with the kit. I have a collection of watchmaking tools and experience working on microscopic womens watch parts, so it was super easy for me. Goodluck and thanks to OP!!
WARNING: I’ve tried this on two controllers, and failed both times for the same reason. When you pull the handle apart, it is extremely easy to yank the ribbon and rip the bracket off the board. Since it’s impossible to reach the release before you pull the handle apart there’s no way to avoid this issue, unless you’re EXTREMELY careful when pulling. Good luck.
If you use tweezers it's possible to flip the release on the ribbon before removing the handle from the head. That way if you do pull the parts apart too much the ribbon will usually just come out.
Thank you for this guide brother. Saved me some real bother. My son snapped the actual thumbstick so my repair was quicker than the video. Keep up the good work.
3:44 The 2 tiny screws at the top (on either side of the ring joint) are T4 screws. There’s a long screw by the menu button. T4 was easier to remove the slanted screw by the black one. Arrange them in a circle on table as you go. 9 screws total
I’m 15 trying to figure out how to unscrew these, I have almost no clue what I’m doing, is there a certain screw piece that we are supposed to use for these 2?
I've had stick drift for 2 and a half years and it was to the point that even cleaning spray wouldn't work. This kit and video just saved my sanity thank you
Just wanted to say thank you. I followed your instructions, and was able to replace my son's thumb sticks. He went from not being able to play at all, to just having a hair of drift.
4:40 *PUSH GRIP BUTTON IN* when separating the handle! It’s easy to snap the tab that holds the grip button, a gray rubber grommet creates a weak point. My grip button broke during regular gameplay so I hope they have it mounted better for the Quest 3. There’s a detailed “partial break down” video by user King Matai - where he approaches these sensitive steps with more care, I suggest starting with that
Hi, thanks for that, just replaced my boys thumbstick with your video, was pretty easy... except for putting the ribbon that connects handle to motherboard..nearly gave up and bought a new controller lol, but I found the secret is to connect the plastic outer part of handle and the cable naturally finds its way into the ribbon holder, then just poke your needle nose pliers through to lock it in! thanks again :-)
much thanks, this was a project that i put off for a long time and this video helped me tremendously. totally fixed my stick drift issue which made playing the quest 2 impossible. just be careful removing the large ribbon especially and take your time.
This video was very helpful! Saved me about 300 dollars for two new controllers because I got my Quest 2 from my friend for free. Only thing I did different was I undid the fourth screw and started to take apart the grip itself to get to it. Took me hours to get the damn thing apart but 3-5 hours and 20 dollars is better than 300 dollars and a few days to get a new one 😂
Dude you save me $150 for a left touch controller! I fixed it it's visually impairment friendly though. At least I had previous experiences fixing similar devices. Once again, thank you!
Thank you sm! My dad helped me with this and after an anxious hour and a half, we fixed it! Only problem was that you skipped a very important part, which was detaching the ribbon cable (I think it’s called) to detach the grip entirely.
You mean this part: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004758203103.html?pdp_npi=2%40dis%21AUD%21AU%20%2413.46%21AU%20%2413.46%21%21%21%21%21%402103364716736294780714760e2594%2112000030360266981%21btf&_t=pvid:aff94895-98ed-49c0-97ae-cde10f1988e7&afTraceInfo=1005004758203103__pc__pcBridgePPC__xxxxxx__1673629478&spm=a2g0o.ppclist.product.mainProduct
I have had controller drift in my left MedQuest two controller for like a year. I only just found there’s an aftermarket parts availability. Maybe this has been going on for a while, but I was haggling with Meta for a month or two about getting controller replacements. Thank you for this video.
Your video explanation is so detailed in 4K video quality. I'm really impressed with your work. Thank you so much. I hope you always be successful and have a nice day! 👍👍❤
just fixed my controller thanks to you maaan did i struggle my controller didnt connect back to my headset first so i thought a cable is not attached but after holding some buttons for a few seconds it vibrated and reconnected thank you very much
dunno why everyone is saying this is "skipping parts". willing to bet they are barely paying attention and never worked with small electronics before. this guide is flawless man, thank you.
no idea whats going on... replaced thumbstick but wont go left only right on the calibration screen. No change in replacing sticks... just junk cost me another 118$ to replace the damn thing
I thought I reassembled it correctly, but now spinning in circles. Any ideas? Fist and finger point are working properly. When I load into a game, I just spin in wide circles.
Yeah. He really needs to emphasize this step. I’ve tried this fix on two different controllers and broke both of them by ripping the ribbon bracket off the board when pulling the handle apart.
@Jim Beam yeah, I really need to make a video showing how to do it, removes the whole having to use tweezers to insert ribbon bit I keep seeing in videos
will say this now: if you have a deadzone set (basically creates a limit to how much force is needed to over come the limit to move but as we know stick drift will just go through that with ease at some points), that will need to be recalibrated otherwise you will find that it's hard to move in any direction.
At 5:15 into the video, the creator explains there is a latch that needs to be lifted to safely disconnect the ribbon cable from the motherboard. I ripped the latch off (and subsequently the ribbon cable) by trying to lift this incorrectly with the tweezers from the repair kit. From reading comments posted before mine, this seems to be where most people using this video ruin their controller.
for me cleaning the sensor worked every time, it s just a little bit fidelly to put the joystick assambly together, also disassambling the battery compartment to put that ribbon back its much easyer.
Great video. Thank you! One note: If you open the battery compartment and you don’t see any other screws, but one, you need to remove the tape that shows the battery direction. Since the video is questionable, as to how many screws are there, I assumed my controller only had one and almost tore the thing apart before I finally started tearing off that tape. My controllers working great now!
I got my replacement joystick kit and it turns out it is exactly like urs, for me it was pretty easy actually, I just replaced both joysticks and test them out b4 actually putting the screws and everything. Now the next step is to replace the battery or at least it's cells. Thanks man it was straight 4ward and no chitchat
NOTE! When you’re closing the controller, plug in the middle ribbon cable! I had mine in and clamped but it wasn’t in all the way so please, be careful. Also great tutorial!
I'm so glad i manage to put that ribbon cable back on.. cuz that took me about an hour to put it back XDD. NOW I CAN ENJOY DRIFT FREE!!! Thank you very much for the tutorial.
That's spooky, I have drift on my right joystick today, used the contact cleaner and compressed air method, which has worked so far. This is the second time on the same controller. May have to try your method eventually. Pity you still don't live in the UK, I'd pay you to repair mine, 😉.Great vid, thanks very much
This video could be DRAMATICALLY improved by not simply saying "there's a few difficult bits to reassembly" but instead offering some solid tips. The single hardest part of this repair is reattaching that ribbon cable that connects lower half to top half, and you don't show how you did it, or offer any tips for it. I still appreciate the video, just think you should consider adding some sort of help for that part of the repair.
Mission accomplished. Thanks. Just a few notes. Take your time on those screws, don’t strip them. If they’re resisting, slow down and try backing them out just a tiny bit at a time. Keep track of the order you remove screws and make sure you put them back in the same hole. I noticed that some of the screws are slightly different lengths. The black cover held on by adhesive comes off pretty easy. Don’t worry, it will stick back into place. The toughest part is dealing with the ribbons. Luckily, the way it’s designed, they want to be in that “plugged in” position. So once you have it lined up, they should scoot into place, then lock them in. Before you start screwing everything down, pop a battery in and put on the headset, make sure all the buttons work. If not, maybe double check your ribbons. Take it easy on the all the plastic parts that are snapped into place. Everything will pop off if you twist/pull at just the right angle. You just have to take your time and find that angle. All in all, worth the effort.
I'd like to thank you from all my heart for making this video with the details and very comments which some you verbally mentioned and some where written. A great guide ✨️😎👌🏻💐
Me too man, I really need help with those and since my dad died I never learned how screwdrivers work or at least what types are right for certain screws
EVERYONE!!! REMOVE THE STICKER THAT IS COVERING THE OTHER SCREWS AT THE BATTERY COMPARTMENT AS WELL DO NOT REMOVE THE GRIP PART UNTIL YOU DO THAT YOU MIGHT BREAK IT (I ALMOST did because I didn't notice there was a sticker in the battery compartment so I got really lucky)
The metal pin that holds the trigger into place is very easy to push out. Do this and you can pull the trigger right off, making it very easy to access the two screws that are under it instead of having to angle the driver and stripping out the screws in the process.
I’m receiving my kit tomorrow my left controller drift has been so bad recently it’s been unplayable. I’m kind of nervous about it. To be honest. I don’t wanna ruin anything as my VR has played a big part in my life, but watching this tutorial makes me feel more comfortable doing this. Fingers crossed. I don’t trip any wires or mess anything up because then I would be devastated. Edit after operating I ended up breaking my controller. Screw this and pack.
hey chill out man, I broke my right controller by ripping the ribon cable clamp off. It does suck but it isnt that big of a deal, just order a new remote off of oculus. I had to replace both and i did the second one correct.
Did you manage to fix it? I have a similar issue ever since I took off the thumb stick cap where the touch sensitivity is low now and the thumbstick cap feels kinda loose.
fixes drift like a champ, but i have one small complaint/warning to people who do it. if you play vrchat, say goodbye to both your point gestures, as for some reason replacing these joysticks just gets rid of the pressure sensor in the front trigger. unless im just wrong and i somehow messed something putting it back together, but everything else in the controller works perfectly fine, and i don't know how to fix it regardless of what i've tried, so i think it's somehow just the joysticks
I found it easier to get to the motherboard screw by removing the trigger. It is held in place by a pin, which the t5 screwdriver is just the right size to punch out. Be sure to punch it out to the left if you do, so it does not hit the ribbon cable on its right.
Great tutorial, however I don’t believe removing the other side of the handle was explained when unlocking the ribbon was mentioned around 5:10. I could have missed it, but I went through several times and could not see an explanation of how to remove the part of the handle that covers and is attached to the ribbon. I went to another video to find it, then came back to this video because everything else was very well done. This is the first time I’ve ever taken apart something like this, and it was very doable because of this video and the kit!
Big tip to disassembly, reassembly, remove the trigger button by pushing out the bar that holds it as soon as you can, also separate the battery shell from the front shell.
This was a great video and recommendation and I complete the repair today first time verifying function before returning everything. That ribbon connection is super difficult to the main board. Could you remove it from batter board to extend the length?
"I only use t5" Definitely needed t4 take the two top most ring screws. (My kit luckily included this) *removes 3 screws from the handle but there are 4* "8 screws to remove" *circles 9* No mention or picture of the smaller and larger screw positions. (The long one goes under the joystick and the black one is the easily accessed one on the right. The two slightly smaller ones are the top two and take the smaller bit) Twisted that last motherboard screw when the trigger can be removed by pressing it's pin out to the left (push from the side the joystick is on, careful of the cable) 8:18
I appreciate your video. I accepted the fact that I might destroy the controller which I did. I found the ribbon tape removal part a little vague. I was prying on the metal part not the black plastic part. I eventually destroyed the ribbon tape and ordered another controller. I did not give up and figured out how the ribbon tape works so next I will have the parts and the knowledge to accomplish this task. Maybe you could edit this part of your video. Also you can take the controller apart a bit more that will expose the ribbon cable to make it a bit easier to get to. I watched 2 other videos that helped me figure this out as well. Overall good job but a bit more detail with the ribbon tape would be helpful.
Just saw this and was completely helpful to the part where you had to remove the four screws. I didn’t see how you took the trigger thing off and it broke one of my cable so yeah.
If you're confused like I was about removing the ribbon cable latch, you have to flip it upwards going towards the cable itself. So put your tweezers underneath the black portion of the latch, and push up and towards the ribbon cable. Then you can slide the cable out.
FYI the silver thing you point to on the old stick is the click when you press down on the stick. The left right up down is the black areas on the side and bottom.
Just a heads up, if you remove the other half of the trigger handle it’s a piece of cake to reinstall the larger ribbon. You’ll save yourself a ton of headache.
Quest 2 Thumbstick Replacement Kit (US): amzn.to/3YD7BqM
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hey are you sure the two screws on the top of the controller next to the spring of the trigger are T5?
@@roberine7241 having the same problem, the t5 bit doesn't seem to fit but the other screws fit perfectly.
@@demen9497 might also be the fact I can't get to it from the right angle. my scredriver has a big grip so the tracking ring is in the way. I think I have a T5 bit somewhere that I can use.
@@demen9497 it seems a T4 works a lot better for the two on top. I have managed to fix my controllers. yay.
@@roberine7241 alright, thanks for letting me know.
Do yourself a huge favor and remove the ONE LAST SCREW (so all four of them) inside the battery compartment. This lets you disassemble the entire grip which makes it EASY to get the large ribbon cable back into its socket on the mainboard. In the video, he glosses over that "difficult part" (it is near impossible, actually). I wasted an hour trying figure out how to do it until I saw another video that had all the covers on the grip removed. Then I could easily see the ribbon cable and insert it without the grip trigger in the way.
I set my controller down at this part, glad I’m reading the reviews. Hopefully once I get back to repairing it, this ends up being the easy solution I need cause I rewatched that part of the video plenty of times!!
Wish I would have seen your comment sooner destroyed that connection because I couldn't see it 😢 time for a new remote
Thanks for the tip!!
Do you have the link to the other video by any chance?
Thanks man.
4:41 EVERYONE BE CAREFUL AT THIS PART!!!! I just destroyed my controlled at this part I was stuck on the locking mechanism for quite some time , if you are very good with taking this kind of stuff apart go for it but I’m warning you now this is a very tricky part and I was incredibly patient
I’m literally stuck at this part it won’t come off. I even tried the knife thing and it still won’t budge. What do I do
This is the part I'm stuck at. Won't come off for me either. If wish video shows this "locking mechanism" closer. May have helped some.
@@demongaming21he did say to watch his other video from when he took it apart for the 1st time.
@@CurtisD1986he did say to watch his other video from when he took it apart for the 1st time.
@@demongaming21 theres a screw in the battery area that the video didnt mention
Thanks Oculus, for making it harder than it should be.
You could just spend over 170 dollars for brand new controllers
Hell nah
I've rebuilt carburetors that were easier than this BS! Smh...
@@jugghead-1975 But no carburetor looks like it was built by aliens, like the inside of this controller does. Now we know why you can't buy a knock-off version. They said they'd back-engineer the thumbstick part, and that was it 😄
Try to repair an Xbox controller@@HimJimmy
I'd just like to say a big massive thanks. I appreciate the effort you've gone through to make this video, I'm heavy-handed. If it wasn't for people like you, bits would've been torn off 😆 Thanks.
I followed this guide step-by-step, not realising I had to watch another video to understand steps you cut out of this guide. It ended up breaking the controller's inner cables, for anyone in the future, I recommend either following a different guide or doing a lot more research before attempting this, as this guide expects you to already know how to assemble and disassemble the controller.
He clearly said to watch the other video
YEESSS this worked perfectly for me, I can't believe I actually did all of that to the controller, and it still works.
Was trying to give a thumbs up but my thumb kept drifting, but then I fixed it and gave a thumbs up! lol
This video skips removing the 2nd half of the 2nd half of the grip that covers the finger trigger (before moving the ribbon cable)
Yeah I can’t do it bc he decides to just skip it
Yup just broke the the Small Ribbon block cause I tried skipping this step with the Video smh
could I reattach it?
@@STILLONTOPI couldn't....smh
Yeah... I noticed... and I ended up breaking the lock for the ribbon.
me too but can you reattach it??
Thanks so much for this video, it was truly a life saver, we could never have put these controllers back together without this. Thanks again, and have fun gaming!
Glad it helped 😊
@@VRReviews11 this tutorial shattered my controller. im going to blame you because im currently in a state of unmatched anger at my own failures.
canceled an order for a new controller thanks to this. you're incredible. thanks!
Good video but they’re were many parts you didn’t cover or skipped. It’s important if you’re gonna make a guide to show those parts. I had to eye ball the switch part and putting the screws back because you didn’t cover where certain screws go.
If there's many parts not covered or skipped how the fuck is it a good video?
He has the expertise and guides exactly how NOT to break your shit.
Just dumb that he didn’t include every part of the guide which is crucial.
Thank you very much! My controller is working again! It took me about two hours, but carefully I managed. The most tricky part was the bigger flat cable. After I attached it, I put the battery back, but nothing worked, so I opened it again and carefully managed to get it in the right place and lock it. The screws in my controller needed two different sizes screw driver. I'm really happy now!
@the walking dead fan In my case the controller (joystick) was working as new.
@the walking dead fan What do you think yourself?
Finally a serious Q2 thumbstick repair video!
Thanks very much.
Glad it helped!
Umm do you see how many BROKE their controllers due to Skipping steps! Maybe you should add an FYI steps missing banner
needs a class action lawsuit on this issue
how did you take off the back at 5:10 I’m so confused you just skipped that part
You just kinda have to pull it off around the trigger
When we're talking about stick drift, it's when the stick moves you in a random direction (backwards in my case) on the first input and when stopping right? Or when you try to sprint in some games, but you'll be sprinting on and off due to it.
Took me about 55 minutes but i successfully did it first try.
The controller is brand new!
I advise anyone that wants to undertake this task that when removing the handle cover to unclamp the ribbon cable first! You will need straight tweezers which don't come with the kit.
I have a collection of watchmaking tools and experience working on microscopic womens watch parts, so it was super easy for me.
Goodluck and thanks to OP!!
WARNING: I’ve tried this on two controllers, and failed both times for the same reason. When you pull the handle apart, it is extremely easy to yank the ribbon and rip the bracket off the board. Since it’s impossible to reach the release before you pull the handle apart there’s no way to avoid this issue, unless you’re EXTREMELY careful when pulling. Good luck.
If you use tweezers it's possible to flip the release on the ribbon before removing the handle from the head. That way if you do pull the parts apart too much the ribbon will usually just come out.
Yeah. I made that mistake.
@@theragincajun2493 rip. same just now
Yeah, he never showed the removal of the ribbon and I had no idea I had to unlatch it.
If you unstick the ribbon you can unlatch it on the battery end and make life so much easier
Thanks!
thanks for the tutorial.. its not much considering YT take half,but i really appreciate you making the video.
Thank you so much for the support!!! Very generous and much appreciated - it means a lot to me 🙏
Ordered the same replacement kit as you. Followers your video guide. My Quest 2 controller is fixed! Thank you.
Thank you for this guide brother. Saved me some real bother. My son snapped the actual thumbstick so my repair was quicker than the video. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the video, changed out my son’s thumb stick boards and the actual thumb stick. He is back in business. Happy Dad.
3:44 The 2 tiny screws at the top (on either side of the ring joint) are T4 screws. There’s a long screw by the menu button. T4 was easier to remove the slanted screw by the black one. Arrange them in a circle on table as you go. 9 screws total
The 18-in-1 Craftsman precision screw set worked great, I got it for $9 at Lowe’s
I’m 15 trying to figure out how to unscrew these, I have almost no clue what I’m doing, is there a certain screw piece that we are supposed to use for these 2?
YaBoiRelish have you got the special Torx screwdrivers? These aren't your Granpa's screws 😮😊
I’m using a t4 screwdriver and they won’t come out. I even tried a t3. Any advice?
@@calebspilman7811which way are you turning? Remember righty righty lefty loosey
Thank for making this video, I just used it to swap out a joystick and all is working perfectly now. Much appreciated!
I've had stick drift for 2 and a half years and it was to the point that even cleaning spray wouldn't work. This kit and video just saved my sanity thank you
You're very welcome. Hopefully, it lasts a bit longer this time.
sooooo how do you remove the trigger side to expose board?
Just wanted to say thank you. I followed your instructions, and was able to replace my son's thumb sticks. He went from not being able to play at all, to just having a hair of drift.
4:40 *PUSH GRIP BUTTON IN* when separating the handle! It’s easy to snap the tab that holds the grip button, a gray rubber grommet creates a weak point. My grip button broke during regular gameplay so I hope they have it mounted better for the Quest 3.
There’s a detailed “partial break down” video by user King Matai - where he approaches these sensitive steps with more care, I suggest starting with that
5:15 the cable latch (black bar) must be flipped up by sliding tweezers or small Flathead under the bottom, opposite the cable.
How the hell do you remove the screw underneath the trigger!? If I push any harder I’ll break the whole thing trying to get that one screw out
Skipped a step of how to get to the motherboard @ 5:11. Had to watch other videos to figure it out.
What vid is it
Literally same shits annoying
And speeding up the video for certain areas doesn’t help at all 😅
Hi, thanks for that, just replaced my boys thumbstick with your video, was pretty easy... except for putting the ribbon that connects handle to motherboard..nearly gave up and bought a new controller lol, but I found the secret is to connect the plastic outer part of handle and the cable naturally finds its way into the ribbon holder, then just poke your needle nose pliers through to lock it in! thanks again :-)
much thanks, this was a project that i put off for a long time and this video helped me tremendously. totally fixed my stick drift issue which made playing the quest 2 impossible. just be careful removing the large ribbon especially and take your time.
fixed my controller after 3 hours but works amazingly. Thanks again
Amazing step by step video, I saved big bucks following this video! it takes patience but it works perfect! Thank you!!!
Thank you for the video, managed to change the stick of my Q2 controller and now it works like a charm.
I tip my hat to thee good sir. You have saved me well over $100 and I learned something new. Thank you
quick, to the point, little time wasted. you sir have earned and gained a sub! liked and commented too.
Thank you!
This video was very helpful! Saved me about 300 dollars for two new controllers because I got my Quest 2 from my friend for free. Only thing I did different was I undid the fourth screw and started to take apart the grip itself to get to it. Took me hours to get the damn thing apart but 3-5 hours and 20 dollars is better than 300 dollars and a few days to get a new one 😂
Dude you save me $150 for a left touch controller! I fixed it it's visually impairment friendly though. At least I had previous experiences fixing similar devices. Once again, thank you!
Thank you sm! My dad helped me with this and after an anxious hour and a half, we fixed it! Only problem was that you skipped a very important part, which was detaching the ribbon cable (I think it’s called) to detach the grip entirely.
At 04:42 when removing the grip, some models require you to remove ANOTHER screw on the plate in order for the grips to separate.
ive been so confused why the grip wasnt coming off. you jusr saved me from shattering my grip
Thank you so much I could have easily broken my controller
Is it like oculus and meta difference?
I don’t know if you’ll see this comment but the plastic part of my joystick is completely broken I can see the spring
How do I fix it where do they sell the parts
You mean this part: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004758203103.html?pdp_npi=2%40dis%21AUD%21AU%20%2413.46%21AU%20%2413.46%21%21%21%21%21%402103364716736294780714760e2594%2112000030360266981%21btf&_t=pvid:aff94895-98ed-49c0-97ae-cde10f1988e7&afTraceInfo=1005004758203103__pc__pcBridgePPC__xxxxxx__1673629478&spm=a2g0o.ppclist.product.mainProduct
@@VRReviews11YES YOUR A LIFE SAVER!
How do you even break that part just curious because im taking apart my uncles this week
@SneakerCollector I was playing a game and hit my controller and it the little plastic part cracked and broke over time
I have had controller drift in my left MedQuest two controller for like a year. I only just found there’s an aftermarket parts availability. Maybe this has been going on for a while, but I was haggling with Meta for a month or two about getting controller replacements. Thank you for this video.
Thanks for the video, just fixed both of my controllers and they work perfectly now😊
Your video explanation is so detailed in 4K video quality. I'm really impressed with your work. Thank you so much. I hope you always be successful and have a nice day! 👍👍❤
also, maybe mention AND highlight the longer screws (of the 9) and which location they come from. Anybody know where the 2 longer screws go back in?
Couldnt have done it without you! 🙏🍻 Getting that ribbon back on was frustrating.
5:03 I was so Lost. I still am lol.. how do i get to that little switch without taking my controller TOTALLY apart?
just fixed my controller thanks to you maaan did i struggle my controller didnt connect back to my headset first so i thought a cable is not attached but after holding some buttons for a few seconds it vibrated and reconnected
thank you very much
Great video. I would have never figured that out without your guidance. Works perfectly now!
dunno why everyone is saying this is "skipping parts". willing to bet they are barely paying attention and never worked with small electronics before. this guide is flawless man, thank you.
Thanks! It's frustrating when people miss the details but that's just part of UA-cam 😅
no idea whats going on... replaced thumbstick but wont go left only right on the calibration screen. No change in replacing sticks... just junk cost me another 118$ to replace the damn thing
I thought I reassembled it correctly, but now spinning in circles. Any ideas? Fist and finger point are working properly. When I load into a game, I just spin in wide circles.
Thank you so much for making this video helped me replace my broken analog stick
Your missing a step in assembly/disassembly, that "tricky" ribbon cable attachment, the grip comes apart further releasing the cable it's holding down
Yeah. He really needs to emphasize this step. I’ve tried this fix on two different controllers and broke both of them by ripping the ribbon bracket off the board when pulling the handle apart.
@Jim Beam yeah, I really need to make a video showing how to do it, removes the whole having to use tweezers to insert ribbon bit I keep seeing in videos
I think you mean 9 screws to remove. Even had them circled at 3:48. Ok mistake.
Thank you so much all I needed was a cleaning! It all works as new!
That was the most nerve wrecking hour and a half of my life but I did it! The grip part was the hardest with the pull apart and the cable
will say this now: if you have a deadzone set (basically creates a limit to how much force is needed to over come the limit to move but as we know stick drift will just go through that with ease at some points), that will need to be recalibrated otherwise you will find that it's hard to move in any direction.
My joystick will only move forwards after I replaced it so you think you’d know what causes that
Thsi guys just saved me 150£! Almost went and got new controllers but then saw this video and now they work like new thanks so much!
At 5:15 into the video, the creator explains there is a latch that needs to be lifted to safely disconnect the ribbon cable from the motherboard. I ripped the latch off (and subsequently the ribbon cable) by trying to lift this incorrectly with the tweezers from the repair kit.
From reading comments posted before mine, this seems to be where most people using this video ruin their controller.
for me cleaning the sensor worked every time, it s just a little bit fidelly to put the joystick assambly together, also disassambling the battery compartment to put that ribbon back its much easyer.
Great video. Thank you!
One note: If you open the battery compartment and you don’t see any other screws, but one, you need to remove the tape that shows the battery direction.
Since the video is questionable, as to how many screws are there, I assumed my controller only had one and almost tore the thing apart before I finally started tearing off that tape.
My controllers working great now!
You're welcome! I mention taking off the sticker here: 1:48
@@VRReviews11 well in typical male fashion I seem to have missed that part.. 😝😂😂
I got my replacement joystick kit and it turns out it is exactly like urs, for me it was pretty easy actually, I just replaced both joysticks and test them out b4 actually putting the screws and everything. Now the next step is to replace the battery or at least it's cells. Thanks man it was straight 4ward and no chitchat
Thanks a bunch - I just replaced mine today and I am not going to lie - putting it back toagther was kinda hard but it all worked out well! 👍🏻
NOTE!
When you’re closing the controller, plug in the middle ribbon cable! I had mine in and clamped but it wasn’t in all the way so please, be careful. Also great tutorial!
I'm so glad i manage to put that ribbon cable back on.. cuz that took me about an hour to put it back XDD. NOW I CAN ENJOY DRIFT FREE!!!
Thank you very much for the tutorial.
Excellent video, I will make sure I save this for reference!
Glad it was helpful!
That's spooky, I have drift on my right joystick today, used the contact cleaner and compressed air method, which has worked so far. This is the second time on the same controller. May have to try your method eventually. Pity you still don't live in the UK, I'd pay you to repair mine, 😉.Great vid, thanks very much
No worries!
This video could be DRAMATICALLY improved by not simply saying "there's a few difficult bits to reassembly" but instead offering some solid tips. The single hardest part of this repair is reattaching that ribbon cable that connects lower half to top half, and you don't show how you did it, or offer any tips for it. I still appreciate the video, just think you should consider adding some sort of help for that part of the repair.
Mission accomplished. Thanks. Just a few notes. Take your time on those screws, don’t strip them. If they’re resisting, slow down and try backing them out just a tiny bit at a time. Keep track of the order you remove screws and make sure you put them back in the same hole. I noticed that some of the screws are slightly different lengths. The black cover held on by adhesive comes off pretty easy. Don’t worry, it will stick back into place. The toughest part is dealing with the ribbons. Luckily, the way it’s designed, they want to be in that “plugged in” position. So once you have it lined up, they should scoot into place, then lock them in. Before you start screwing everything down, pop a battery in and put on the headset, make sure all the buttons work. If not, maybe double check your ribbons. Take it easy on the all the plastic parts that are snapped into place. Everything will pop off if you twist/pull at just the right angle. You just have to take your time and find that angle. All in all, worth the effort.
Very much appreciated video. You saved me a lot of money. Thank you so much!!!🕹️💰🤩
They should make a hall effect stick for the Quest to permanently fix stick drift.
I'd like to thank you from all my heart for making this video with the details and very comments which some you verbally mentioned and some where written. A great guide ✨️😎👌🏻💐
3:50 the two screws on top that hold the tacking thing to the controller is so hard to unscrew and I’m using the thing that came with the kit 😢
Me too man, I really need help with those and since my dad died I never learned how screwdrivers work or at least what types are right for certain screws
EVERYONE!!! REMOVE THE STICKER THAT IS COVERING THE OTHER SCREWS AT THE BATTERY COMPARTMENT AS WELL DO NOT REMOVE THE GRIP PART UNTIL YOU DO THAT YOU MIGHT BREAK IT (I ALMOST did because I didn't notice there was a sticker in the battery compartment so I got really lucky)
SAME THKNV HAPPENED TO ME AND MY FATHER, IT ALMOST RIPPED IN HALF
The metal pin that holds the trigger into place is very easy to push out. Do this and you can pull the trigger right off, making it very easy to access the two screws that are under it instead of having to angle the driver and stripping out the screws in the process.
Thank you for the video. My son and I just did a joystick swap while watching.
This video saved my quest 2. Thankyou
There were 9 screws in the main plate. But great video. It worked!❤
I followed step by step and it worked. Thank you.
Thank you so much dude! My controller works great now.
I’m receiving my kit tomorrow my left controller drift has been so bad recently it’s been unplayable. I’m kind of nervous about it. To be honest. I don’t wanna ruin anything as my VR has played a big part in my life, but watching this tutorial makes me feel more comfortable doing this. Fingers crossed. I don’t trip any wires or mess anything up because then I would be devastated.
Edit after operating I ended up breaking my controller. Screw this and pack.
hey chill out man, I broke my right controller by ripping the ribon cable clamp off. It does suck but it isnt that big of a deal, just order a new remote off of oculus. I had to replace both and i did the second one correct.
My controller works fine now other than the fact on vr, it doesn’t register my finger on top of the joystick until I move it, any tips?
Did you manage to fix it? I have a similar issue ever since I took off the thumb stick cap where the touch sensitivity is low now and the thumbstick cap feels kinda loose.
same here
Sadly I haven’t found a fix.
fixes drift like a champ, but i have one small complaint/warning to people who do it. if you play vrchat, say goodbye to both your point gestures, as for some reason replacing these joysticks just gets rid of the pressure sensor in the front trigger. unless im just wrong and i somehow messed something putting it back together, but everything else in the controller works perfectly fine, and i don't know how to fix it regardless of what i've tried, so i think it's somehow just the joysticks
I found it easier to get to the motherboard screw by removing the trigger. It is held in place by a pin, which the t5 screwdriver is just the right size to punch out. Be sure to punch it out to the left if you do, so it does not hit the ribbon cable on its right.
Great tutorial, however I don’t believe removing the other side of the handle was explained when unlocking the ribbon was mentioned around 5:10. I could have missed it, but I went through several times and could not see an explanation of how to remove the part of the handle that covers and is attached to the ribbon. I went to another video to find it, then came back to this video because everything else was very well done. This is the first time I’ve ever taken apart something like this, and it was very doable because of this video and the kit!
You made removing the outer shell ore circle thing so easy.. I've been at it for an hour and gosh it's painful 🙏😭
Big tip to disassembly, reassembly, remove the trigger button by pushing out the bar that holds it as soon as you can, also separate the battery shell from the front shell.
This was a great video and recommendation and I complete the repair today first time verifying function before returning everything. That ribbon connection is super difficult to the main board. Could you remove it from batter board to extend the length?
"I only use t5"
Definitely needed t4 take the two top most ring screws. (My kit luckily included this)
*removes 3 screws from the handle but there are 4*
"8 screws to remove"
*circles 9*
No mention or picture of the smaller and larger screw positions. (The long one goes under the joystick and the black one is the easily accessed one on the right. The two slightly smaller ones are the top two and take the smaller bit)
Twisted that last motherboard screw when the trigger can be removed by pressing it's pin out to the left (push from the side the joystick is on, careful of the cable) 8:18
I appreciate your video. I accepted the fact that I might destroy the controller which I did. I found the ribbon tape removal part a little vague. I was prying on the metal part not the black plastic part. I eventually destroyed the ribbon tape and ordered another controller. I did not give up and figured out how the ribbon tape works so next I will have the parts and the knowledge to accomplish this task. Maybe you could edit this part of your video. Also you can take the controller apart a bit more that will expose the ribbon cable to make it a bit easier to get to. I watched 2 other videos that helped me figure this out as well. Overall good job but a bit more detail with the ribbon tape would be helpful.
Just saw this and was completely helpful to the part where you had to remove the four screws. I didn’t see how you took the trigger thing off and it broke one of my cable so yeah.
hell yes! im playing vr again! thanks homie!
If you're confused like I was about removing the ribbon cable latch, you have to flip it upwards going towards the cable itself. So put your tweezers underneath the black portion of the latch, and push up and towards the ribbon cable. Then you can slide the cable out.
That’s were I broke mine the connected came off the mother board
Worked like a charm! Thanks so much!
FYI the silver thing you point to on the old stick is the click when you press down on the stick. The left right up down is the black areas on the side and bottom.
Just a heads up, if you remove the other half of the trigger handle it’s a piece of cake to reinstall the larger ribbon. You’ll save yourself a ton of headache.
I got it all done, it turns on and connected but won't move around in game or anything? Help?