Hands down one of the most thorough, well spoken and cleanly design installation. Your video is in my tutorial list for when we sell our current home and start building lasting projects. Thank you for sharing!
Very rarely to never post. Well done walkthrough. Appreciate the thoroughness, enough technical info as well as working out the inevitable surprises. Exactly what I have been searching youtube for. Keep it up!
Your attention to detail is admirable. I've never delt with metal studs, but you've given me enough knowledge where I fell confident enough to do my kitchen with metal. Trying to complete an ongoing build of a 14' waterfall, Koi pond, and full masonry fireplace. Retirement is alot of work. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent video! Been watching your series on the Outdoor Fireplace / Grill Station build. However, not finding the last video finishing up the grill area with the doors and wrap up with the fireplace. Am I missing them somewhere? You mentioned in the comments below you considered Vevor doors but went with KODOM doors for your build. Curious how they are holding up for you? They are very reasonably priced compared to many others I have looked at. Heard Vevor stainless steel is lessor grade and ends up with rust spots. Wondering with this price point if that is the same issue. LMK your experience so far!!
Still trying to finish the video. Had a busy month and a half, but it’s almost done. We did order Vevor, had an issue with one of the doors and customer service. Kodom doors have a deeper flange, which really helped with the install. Ive actually been using one of the doors for a while and did have a rust issue, but realized it was coming from the magnet and plate that keeps the door closed. I sprayed it with some clear coat to see if that will fix it. All of this is in the video. Thanks for watching!
@@BruBuilds Great to hear, look forward to the next video in the series!! So overall, you have been happen with the Kodom doors? No other issues except some rust from the magnet?
@@kevinkleinmann I would say for the price they are ok, only time will tell. I'm sure they are as good as any another cheap door from China. The deeper flange is what sold me on these. My thought is if they start to have rust issues, I will paint them. You can find better "USA" built doors, but they will cost you (if they are actually built in the USA). My wife found a great deal (80% off) on a Lynx stainless-steel trash can unit, the build quality is a lot better, but list price is 15x more than a door.
Good question. I guess pop rivets could work, but I would want to check with the manufacture first. I think it would be more time consuming than screws though.
@michaeljuliano2869 Thanks, I'll talk more about the doors in a future video. We tried going with Vevor, but had customer service issues. Ended up purchasing Kodom brand directly from Amazon. They were the only cheap ones I could find with a wide flange. amzn.to/3J2RCeY
I've seen some people mount the metal frames on composite deck boards to raise them up. I built the slab specifically for this project at 1-1/2" above the pavers to keep water out of the structure.
I really appreciate your quick response and expertise. How far apart would you suggest that I place the composite boards? Also, when I am installing the cement boards, how much space (if any) should I leave underneath for potential water to seep out of my structure?
Not quite understanding the “how far apart question” I would run them the length of the metal track, with a small gab in a few places for water to drain out if needed. You wouldn’t want the cement board touching any water because they would suck the moisture. If you have the 1” composite board under the track, you should be able to run the cement board to the bottom of the track. What type of siding are you applying to the cement boards?
I will be doing something similar on an existing patio so it will not be on a slightly raised pad. Thoughts on how to raise it slightly off the ground to prevent water pooling as well the steel sitting in water and risking rust long term?
Thanks, it will be a bit still, between the weather, work, other projects, and finally deciding what to do for countertops, the fireplace stucco has been on pause. I'm working on part two of the fireplace now.
Great content. This is exactly what I have been searching for. I am wanting to build an outdoor fireplace and BBQ structure, using metal studs. Questions, if you don't mind me asking: 1) What was the total cost of the metal stud material? 2) Is the metal studs light enough to build on top of pavers (no concrete pad)?
Thanks, glad it was helpful for you. 1) I couldn't find the receipts, but I'm thinking it was around $300. I'll look some more later. 2) The studs are light weight; the issue would be what are you using for countertops, that is where most of the weight would be. Also are the pavers flat and level?
It's called Lightwave 3D. I use it because I own an old copy of the software and have used it for years. Most people seem to use a program called "Sketch Up"
We put in a ventless unit, so an exhaust pipe or chimney isn't necessary. There are less code requirements for a ventless fireplace. www.majesticproducts.com/fireplaces/outdoor/courtyard-gas-fireplace
I purchased mine from Westside Building Material. On the Clark Dietrich website they have a where to buy sheet that will give you the email of the person over your region. I don't recommend using the ones from your local box store because they are not the same thickness. www.clarkdietrich.com/sites/default/files/media/documents/CD_Where_To_Buy.pdf
Yes there are. At the building material store I asked for 20ga exterior framing studs. 3 5/8”. After cutting some I notice different numbers, on some of them. I think the sold me framing studs and structural studs. Both were superior to the 20ga studs from Home Depot.
Great video, what width of the metal studs did you use? Sorry if I missed that in the video. Looks like 3.625" and not 2.5" correct? And I saw G60 on your beams. I was thinking G90 since I live in a wetter\humid area. Thoughts?
Thanks, yes they are the 3.625” wide studs. G90 might be a good idea. I went to an industrial supply place and asked for outdoor structural studs but they ended up giving me two different types. But much better than what HD was selling.
A wood burning fireplace would have more code requirements. What is nice about a vent-less gas fireplace is there is no need for a chimney or exhaust vent. Code wise this is considered to be a fire pit.
Galvanized steel doesn't really rust, but it can rust on the ends after cutting them. Especially when you use a chop saw that burns the galvanized coating.
@ashrafsabik3078 I use a 3d animation modeling program, which isn't really a CAD or building program. Are you wanting drawing that you could build from?
I see, im planing outdoor kitchen, and ur vedio was the most helpfull i ever seen, i will follow it step by step and see the materials and ur teps It we will be useful i think Thnks
The concrete countertop video was a test top to see I do actually do it. I'm working the video for part two of the fireplace now which will include, gas, electrical and cement board. Thanks for watching.
It’s called Lightwave3D. Its an animation program for movies and TV, not really a CAD program. I’ve used it for years on different projects. I think I have the 2010 version.
Love the shape of the fireplace surround! ❤
Thanks for the comment, glad you liked it!
This is impressive all the way around. The instructions, the building, and the videography.
Thanks, appreciate the comment.
Hands down one of the most thorough, well spoken and cleanly design installation. Your video is in my tutorial list for when we sell our current home and start building lasting projects. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for sharing that.
You can build a bbq for me anytime! Nice work.
Thanks
Very rarely to never post. Well done walkthrough. Appreciate the thoroughness, enough technical info as well as working out the inevitable surprises. Exactly what I have been searching youtube for. Keep it up!
Thanks, I appreciate the comment.
Your attention to detail is admirable. I've never delt with metal studs, but you've given me enough knowledge where I fell confident enough to do my kitchen with metal. Trying to complete an ongoing build of a 14' waterfall, Koi pond, and full masonry fireplace. Retirement is alot of work. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you, glad it helped
Great tutorial! I came here looking a header detail, and you provided a great one. Nice work on your project! Thank you!
Thanks, glad you liked it
It's absolutely beautiful..amazing piece of work..thank you for the video...
Thanks
Well done video! Thanks
Thanks
What software did you use for planning.
It’s an old animation program called Lightwave3D. I use it because I know it. I’ve heard of some people using Sketch up.
Excellent video! Been watching your series on the Outdoor Fireplace / Grill Station build. However, not finding the last video finishing up the grill area with the doors and wrap up with the fireplace. Am I missing them somewhere? You mentioned in the comments below you considered Vevor doors but went with KODOM doors for your build. Curious how they are holding up for you? They are very reasonably priced compared to many others I have looked at. Heard Vevor stainless steel is lessor grade and ends up with rust spots. Wondering with this price point if that is the same issue. LMK your experience so far!!
Still trying to finish the video. Had a busy month and a half, but it’s almost done. We did order Vevor, had an issue with one of the doors and customer service. Kodom doors have a deeper flange, which really helped with the install. Ive actually been using one of the doors for a while and did have a rust issue, but realized it was coming from the magnet and plate that keeps the door closed. I sprayed it with some clear coat to see if that will fix it. All of this is in the video. Thanks for watching!
@@BruBuilds Great to hear, look forward to the next video in the series!! So overall, you have been happen with the Kodom doors? No other issues except some rust from the magnet?
@@kevinkleinmann I would say for the price they are ok, only time will tell. I'm sure they are as good as any another cheap door from China. The deeper flange is what sold me on these. My thought is if they start to have rust issues, I will paint them. You can find better "USA" built doors, but they will cost you (if they are actually built in the USA). My wife found a great deal (80% off) on a Lynx stainless-steel trash can unit, the build quality is a lot better, but list price is 15x more than a door.
I know it requires you to pre drill but what about using rivets
Good question. I guess pop rivets could work, but I would want to check with the manufacture first. I think it would be more time consuming than screws though.
Nice work
Thanks
One of the better walk through vids I have seen. Ty. Where are the cabinet doors from?
@michaeljuliano2869 Thanks, I'll talk more about the doors in a future video. We tried going with Vevor, but had customer service issues. Ended up purchasing Kodom brand directly from Amazon.
They were the only cheap ones I could find with a wide flange.
amzn.to/3J2RCeY
Thanks. Looking fwd to the next video
Way to go Tom Hanks!!! Where’s Wilson?
Bonus for those who watch until the end. HA
Do you recommend placing composite boards on the bottom of your metal framing? If so, how far apart?
I've seen some people mount the metal frames on composite deck boards to raise them up. I built the slab specifically for this project at 1-1/2" above the pavers to keep water out of the structure.
I really appreciate your quick response and expertise. How far apart would you suggest that I place the composite boards? Also, when I am installing the cement boards, how much space (if any) should I leave underneath for potential water to seep out of my structure?
Not quite understanding the “how far apart question” I would run them the length of the metal track, with a small gab in a few places for water to drain out if needed. You wouldn’t want the cement board touching any water because they would suck the moisture. If you have the 1” composite board under the track, you should be able to run the cement board to the bottom of the track. What type of siding are you applying to the cement boards?
Thank you very much
I am unsure what “siding” means. But, I am going to apply your recommendation and cover the cement board connection areas with thin set.
I will be doing something similar on an existing patio so it will not be on a slightly raised pad. Thoughts on how to raise it slightly off the ground to prevent water pooling as well the steel sitting in water and risking rust long term?
You could use 1” manufactured composite deck boards at the base of each wall.
Great video. When will the stucco video come out for fireplace and outdoor kitchen? Thanks!!!
Thanks, it will be a bit still, between the weather, work, other projects, and finally deciding what to do for countertops, the fireplace stucco has been on pause. I'm working on part two of the fireplace now.
It would be great if you showed how you supported the grill in detail. Did you screw it in or does it just sit there?
Mine just sits there on the two supports and on the countertop with some weather stripping. I've thought about screwing it in just for some security.
Great content. This is exactly what I have been searching for. I am wanting to build an outdoor fireplace and BBQ structure, using metal studs. Questions, if you don't mind me asking:
1) What was the total cost of the metal stud material?
2) Is the metal studs light enough to build on top of pavers (no concrete pad)?
Thanks, glad it was helpful for you.
1) I couldn't find the receipts, but I'm thinking it was around $300. I'll look some more later.
2) The studs are light weight; the issue would be what are you using for countertops, that is where most of the weight would be. Also are the pavers flat and level?
Laughed harder than I should have at the silence starting at 7:15 😂
Thanks, too funny to cut out.
What pc program did you use for the design?
It's called Lightwave 3D. I use it because I own an old copy of the software and have used it for years. Most people seem to use a program called "Sketch Up"
What was the height of the metal frame you cut for the bbq island part?
Bottom of the BBQ is at 27”, top of the counter is at 36.5”. The BBQ itself dictated how deep I need to make the cut out.
When you grabbed those long tapcon's I blew coffee out of my nose.
Hahaha...Sorry about that!
Will any gas firebox work? I’m trying to do something similar to this in my backyard. Can you post a link to the firebox you used?
We put in a ventless unit, so an exhaust pipe or chimney isn't necessary. There are less code requirements for a ventless fireplace. www.majesticproducts.com/fireplaces/outdoor/courtyard-gas-fireplace
Where do you buy this metal framing material please help me
I purchased mine from Westside Building Material. On the Clark Dietrich website they have a where to buy sheet that will give you the email of the person over your region. I don't recommend using the ones from your local box store because they are not the same thickness. www.clarkdietrich.com/sites/default/files/media/documents/CD_Where_To_Buy.pdf
@@BruBuildswhat product did you purchase? There are a bazillion choices
Yes there are. At the building material store I asked for 20ga exterior framing studs. 3 5/8”. After cutting some I notice different numbers, on some of them. I think the sold me framing studs and structural studs. Both were superior to the 20ga studs from Home Depot.
@ awesome. Thank you.
Great video, what width of the metal studs did you use? Sorry if I missed that in the video. Looks like 3.625" and not 2.5" correct? And I saw G60 on your beams. I was thinking G90 since I live in a wetter\humid area. Thoughts?
Thanks, yes they are the 3.625” wide studs. G90 might be a good idea. I went to an industrial supply place and asked for outdoor structural studs but they ended up giving me two different types. But much better than what HD was selling.
@@BruBuilds Thanks for the info! Again, really good video. Keep making them!
Can you make this design to burn wood and not fas?
Sorry gas.
A wood burning fireplace would have more code requirements. What is nice about a vent-less gas fireplace is there is no need for a chimney or exhaust vent. Code wise this is considered to be a fire pit.
Can the framing rust?
Galvanized steel doesn't really rust, but it can rust on the ends after cutting them. Especially when you use a chop saw that burns the galvanized coating.
Can u please share us the planinig work like computer files or sheet printsreen?
@ashrafsabik3078 I use a 3d animation modeling program, which isn't really a CAD or building program. Are you wanting drawing that you could build from?
I see, im planing outdoor kitchen, and ur vedio was the most helpfull i ever seen, i will follow it step by step and see the materials and ur teps
It we will be useful i think
Thnks
@BruBuilds which software is that?
@BinghamtonInvest it is called Lightwave3D
Google sketchup its fine
Your finger and hand placement on some of these cuts is definitely giving me anxiety
Where is the cement board video? It goes straight from this video to the concrete counter tops.
The concrete countertop video was a test top to see I do actually do it. I'm working the video for part two of the fireplace now which will include, gas, electrical and cement board. Thanks for watching.
Any chance youd share the plans?
I would definitely would like to have this.
Unfortunate I don't real have any building plans that I share. I use an older 3D modeling program to design my stuff.
Was this 22 gauge or 25 gauge steel you used?
22 gauge. But I bought some from HD and it wasn’t nearly as stiff, so I took it back.
Actually it was 20 guage
What CAD software did you use?
It’s called Lightwave3D. Its an animation program for movies and TV, not really a CAD program. I’ve used it for years on different projects. I think I have the 2010 version.