40v Ryobi Battery Defective?! Let's Fix it!
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- Опубліковано 15 лип 2024
- Check out my website for other awesome content! jasonoid.com/
By boosting the dead battery voltage above 34 volts the Ryobi charger will again recognize the battery and charge it normally. If you keep the battery from completely discharging, it shouldn't happen again. Always store these batteries at 3/4th capacity for best shelf life. This will only work on the OLDER Ryobi 40volt design batteries. Here's what I used to fix the battery it:
Boost Step Up Converter (Multiple Options):
amzn.to/3ePAKYq (Heavy Duty, Higher Voltage)
amzn.to/3issznk (Smaller and Cheaper, Stops at 35volts)
12volt 5amp Power Adapter:
amzn.to/2qBF2eH
Tool kit used for most my repairs:
amzn.to/2DyIvTL
Great eBay seller that has MANY of these batteries:
www.ebay.com/usr/brokeredgar760
Like what you see? Want to help the channel grow? Feeling a little generous? Donate via Venmo - @JasonoidLLC All donations will be put towards future videos and reviews
Just be aware that these 18650 lithium cells can be dangerous. Do not short circuit the battery for risk of fire. Always boost the battery with low current to avoid damaging the cells. Once the battery is around 35 to 36 volts, the Ryobi charger should finish the job. This video is for instructional purposes only, I take no responsibility for your actions.
Being an Amazon Associate, the following Amazon links are affiliate links that when used throw a small commission to me. Your purchases help me keep new content coming, thank you for your support of my channel! - Наука та технологія
Check out my website for other awesome content! jasonoid.com/
IMPORTANT NOTE: The wire from the CL1 - terminal can be removed after boosting the battery. I have done this to many batteries and I have NEVER needed the wire a second time. Just be careful to not over discharge the battery again in the future and you wont need to boost it again. I would recommend you remove the soldered wire after boosting the battery to avoid possible short circuits. You could also try to use an alligator clip instead of soldering.
This worked just as described. Got mine up to about 32 volts and the charger recognized the battery. Thanks for the video!
I didn't need the info (yet) but well presented. Thank you. Stumbled across this while trying to hunt down a deal on new 6ah batteries after my handyman accidently threw my backpack full of near new batteries in the dumpster.
Thanks SO much for this video. I brought my battery back from the dead and it's charging again. I appreciate you putting the time in to make this video. I bought the tool kit, and Boost Up converter you recommended from Amazon, and they actually arrived the next day. I didn't end up soldering the negative wire to the board, I was able to use some electrical tape and a rubber band to make the connection during charging. My plan is never to fully deplete the battery again - I'll stop and swap when it gets down to two dots. I was able to crank the booster up to about 37 volts using a tiny screwdriver from the kit. When it's actually charging the LED display blanks and two lights blink on the booster board. It took about 3 hours, and I was able to bring the voltage of the battery from about 25 volts to about 33.5 volts. I figured that would be enough - unplugged the charger, disconnected the leads and screwed the battery back together. I put it in the charger and it started charging. Thanks again!
How did the capacity (run time) of the 'fixed' battery compare to normal 40V batteries of the same AHr rating? Thanks.
Richard Friend It’s the same as it was before I ran it complexly flat on the blower. (Damn Oak tree). Just had to get the voltage up a bit so the charger recognized it again.
It worked! Thanks! I did not solder a wire but simply held an alligator clip for about 3-5 minutes, plugged the battery back into the charger and it is charging! Took more time to tinker with the $15 12v Booster to get the output voltage correct.
Thanks Jasonoid.
I revived a newer version of the Ryobi 40v 2.6A rev Q battery today. On these newer batteries the negative is marked GND instead of CL1. I simply used two sets of wired alligator clips and used a good battery to boost the bad one:
1 Clip one end of the negative wire to GND (I taped the aluminum block next to it to prevent short), the other end to the negative contact of the good battery.
2. Clip one end of the positive wire to the positive contact of the good battery, the other end to the positive contact of the bad battery. I did it in this sequence because the positive contact on the good battery with the case on is harder to reach. I didn't want to create too much spark while trying to put the last clip on.
At this point there is a small spark as expected. After about 3-5 seconds I noticed a tiny bit of smoke (probably because the clips and wire are overloaded), so I disconnected one of the clips right away. Then I measured the voltage on the bad battery and it had risen to just above 30v from 8v in that 3-5 seconds, so I decided to put the battery into the charger, and what a joy when I saw that the blinking light was green only instead of green and red before.
Can you make video out of new battery? I was able to reset battery with shorting res contact, but still getting 1 and 4 sold light on mattery when i try to charge and about 10sec later charger starting to red and green blinking. After reset again i see one sold light.
Seen this method a year or so ago online somewhere (may have been this one idk). Honestly its the easiest from all ive found. this has worked for 3 batteries so far. Only down side if you have to have a good one already. If it was you comment i seen then thanks!! lol
This worked for me!! Thank you for posting this comment. I realized after trying the charging contacts directly that you meant putting the negative to the spot on the circuit board where the guy who made this video soldered his!! Worked within a min or two, it's now charging on its charger again!! Appreciate you!
TRIED IT , IT WORKED GREAT , THE ONLY THING I CHANGED WAS , SINCE THE HOLE I DRILLED WAS ALMOST THE SAME DIAMETER AS THE WIRE , ON THE INSIDE OF THE CASE I WRAPED SOME TAPE AROUND THE WIRE TO PREVENT PULLING ON THE SOLDER CONECTION. THANKS!
Thanks for the Video, I bought 5 of these packs for $6 bucks each, got all 5 up and running, they are roughly at 85% capacity!!! I'll call that a win for a battery that cost $100 retail lol. THANKS AGAIN
they are now $180 !!!
Thanks, this worked like a charm. I used a 48v 10 amp power supply adjusted to 40v. The 3-year-old battery jumped from 23v to 35v with a 10-second charge.
Where did you get the 48V power supply? Can you provide the link if it is Amazon?
Yikes, I'd think twice about adding that much voltage and AMPs that fast, it's a good way to permanently kill a cell, and if your unlucky, explode a cell and start a thermal run-away fire that's impossible to put out (you just have to let it burn all that nasty lithium, like those videos of vape people whose pockets suddenly burst into flames and explode)
There are a number of 18650 cells in these battery packs (vape smokers have one cell, if you see those exploding videos) and they are managed by that BMS electronics board that you are bypassing. It is generally safe to charge an 18650 at 1C (or 1 amp). Now your 10 amps is being divided by some of the cells, but these packs have cells in series and parallel, so unless you actually know the configuration, its hard to say how it's being divided. But on top of that, at least one cell is lower than the rest, (causing the problem in the first place) and it might be damaged, meaning it might take less to start it on fire.
TLDR, use low amps and go slow to save yourself a burnt down house
Thanks SO MUCH! I called the number after I wrote down my three numbers! A WONDERFUL woman helped me find the right number for my lawn mower, she checked them and WITHIN 7 Days I had a small heavy box on my front porch! Really fast, luckily I got the lawn mowed between all the great rain we’ve had here in SW FLORIDA. I love the ryobi mower with the lights. I use it year round here, so it shouldn’t go into sleep mode! THANKS SO MUCH FOR THIS INFO , AND SAVING ME $ 108.00. For not having to buy a new one at Home Depot! You are WONDERFUL!
Glad you found this helpful :) Thanks for reaching out!
Thanks for the video! I just boosted one of my batteries and it is now charging on the Ryobi charger now. I didn't solder a wire onto the negative lead. Just used a n alligator clip. Also, I got the same voltage booster and it came with a heat sink. I had to glue it on but other than that it was plug n play ;)
Thanks a ton, this helped me save two batteries!
This worked for an old version ryobi battery sitting in my garage. Used a 12VDC 1amp trickle charger for a motorcycle as the power supply. Battery measured 5vdc before charging .Charged to 32vdc after about 30min. Now an extra battery for my leaf blower. The battery works very well in this application.
Thank You.
did you modify the trickle charger (boost converter between) or just used it like charging any other battery(connect to +/- leads)?
Rolando Sustaita . Yes. Used the charger as input to step-up. Charged to 32vdc and then installed battery into ryobi charger to complete the charge cycle.
I would add one thing to this video - this method of charging is bypassing the fets which are controlled by the bms - and i believe that before you start bypassing the bms, you need to make sure that all the cells have a similar voltage (you don't want one of them too high in particular to this hack) - charging a pack that has one cell high could lead to over voltage and bad bad stuff like thermal runaway etc etc etc - know what you're doing - do your research - don't burn your house down - otherwise this is a good method used quite often by those who know what they're doing
Thanks, this save 2 batteries for me. BTW, I charged mine with another 40V battery (connected plus-to-plus and minus to the wire shown in your video) and it only took a few minutes to get it charged enough so the Ryobi charger would work. Thanks again.
Oh sweet might try this thank you
Do you have to open up the discharged battery or can you connect on the outside from new CHARGED battery to DISCHARGED battery? Thanks, Marty
Could you explain how you did that?
Good details instruction. Mine is about 4-5yrs old. Occasionally after use I get the defective flash when I insert in the charger. I stick it in the freezer for 15-20 mins and it recharges ok.
Thanks for the tip!
I hooked 4 9v batteries in series and connected to the cl6 terminal(neg) and the pos. terminal on the outside on my 2018 & 2019 batteries. Got it up to 17v and the charger recognized both. Charged to full capacity.
Great idea, didnt think about using 9volt batteries. Thanks for sharing!
@@Jasonoid I was surprised it worked.
Great video! I have an older 40v battery like this one and all the other ryobi 40v battery rehab videos I've seen show the RST (reset) procedure that the newer batteries have. My pack voltage is 42.3... turns out my charger may be the problem, first it was indicating a defective battery and not charging, now the indicator doesn't light up at all.
Thanks for this video, worked like a charm.
Great to hear!
For the newer style batteries!! Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damages from the information I’m giving. With that being said, I do have a newer style battery with a newer board that had given me this same problem. After some research I discovered that CL1- is the pack ground on the newer style board labeled GRND. I soldered the wire to this terminal & started charging just like this video & viola, it worked! It did take about 3 hrs for the voltage of the battery to reach 32V & like someone else posted, after boosting the converter to 35V, the converter stop displaying the voltage while charging (red led lights turning on & off), even the blue light on the power adapter would turn on & off. It seemed like this was ok. I would recommend monitoring the charge (don’t step away & leave unattended) & have a fire extinguisher close just in case. Good luck guys!
Hi Jason, do you have a video on how to wire up the step-up boost converter? Thank you
Thanks for video. I just got this model used and acts fine and then right when almost fully charged is when it says defective. Thinking I better just test it on my equipment first and then modify if necessary. Only strange thing is led on battery doesn’t show anything except when in charger then it lights up all way across flashing on last led. Then when almost charged or so seems I get the red and green on n off blinkin on charger came with it and my one year old charger. Strange for sure.
Didn't work on mine, 28v showing and no charge(indicator bad battery) ran it up to 32, 35, 38v and still shows bad in charger. I've switched from ryobi, these batteries fail way too early. Milwaukee seems to be better built anyway and I have yet to meet anyone who says anything negative about their batteries. Thanks for the vid, it was worth a try.
There is a reset on the board, which I tried after manually chargeing the battery to 35 Volts. Mine still did not work.
You can just loosen the screw near the shunt resistors ie big rectangle part near where you have soldered the wire too and charge it that way too
I have a newer battery that doesn't appear to have the same CL-1 terminal. Any suggestions? This battery came new to me as part of a reconditioned tool. Ryobi is replacing the battery but it would be nice to get this one going as a spare.
Thanks you - success!
This is an awesome video. Ive got a similar problem that I have not been able to fix. Maybe one of you great people have seen it. Ive got one of the old style batteries that will charge fine but only half way. Almost like half of the internal batteries are discharged or defective. Any way to fix this short of un soldering each and checking/recharging them individually?
Do you have to use the converter to get it to charge,,, could you use another 40v battery and let it trickle charge the bad one
Brilliant! Jason. I am glad I visited UA-cam to find out a fix for my 40V that was left out during the Saskatchewan winters. We shall do it and will report back to you. Now, I need to help you by contributing. How do I do that?
No need to worry about it, I'm glad the video helped!
You Rock!! Thanks so much
Thank you for this great "Fix" video. I ordered the components you recommended and it worked. Thanks for saving me $80. Much appreciated Does it mean that I have a bad cell if this problem happened ? Or maybe because I left the battery charging all winter ?
Not sure what caused the battery to drop below the 30 volt level, if you leave the battery on the charger it doesn't stay charging, it charges and then turns off and no lights are active on the battery so it probably didn't charge all winter as thought.
I have a newer version of the 40 v battery with the board 280487 rev Q and I can't find the positive and negative points? Any suggestions? Thank you!
Is there a reason for having the negative lead always external to the battery?
Using 94Wh batteries in my blower (RY40401A Date Code 9-13-2013), it has been stopping when the charge status is at 2 lights (50%). It blows again when the trigger is depressed, but it's only for a second, indicating some part in the circuit is stopping the current. It has no problem before then. Battery voltage measured with voltmeter shows 37 volts across the + and - spades. The battery is OP4026 bought in 2015, so it is more than 4 years old. Ryobi only tells me to contact a service center.
The battery does charge to 41 volts and displays all 4 green lights.
With my 5Ah battery I don't have this problem since I'm usually finished before it can stop. I use the 5Ah batteries for my mower.
how about the new design batteries, do you have a fix for them? mine is a newer one. hope you got a fix. thank you
Good charging station
Just a thought but wouldn't it be easier to lower the adjusted voltage setting on the charger so it then can recognize the battery. (or attempt to remove the feature which the charger uses to control how it chargers) - just was wondering if that was a viable option.
Circuit board on thr charger doesn't have any way to modify it. Unless you have an electrical engineering degree and can reverse engineer it. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this video. I've always been annoyed that batteries decide when they're "defective" and I would love it if they just let ME decide when they are no longer viable. I've long suspected they are not really bad, just some kind of thing exactly like this and it turns out "low voltage".
I like that your hack does let ME decide. I've ordered the security torx bits and the step up converter. I've been wanting the security torx for a while for various things; like the fan in my DVR is noisy sometimes and I want to replace that, too, and the box as the security torx screws.
Anyway, I'll let you know how the battery fix goes. Now, where's my multimeter.....?
It's right over there.
Given the choice between deciding it's defective or burning down your house and getting sued, the corporations will always choose the 1st... Blame the lawyers.
I push the power button on the battery and all 4 led light flashes green 4 times. You know what that means? I can't get a reading on my solar booster when connected to the pos and neg.
I have a couple of these that fully charge but stop working with 2 lights still showing. Half charged. Any fix?
Great content. Cant wait to open mine up, but I have an older Ryobi single battery charger that that flashes defective whether a battery is loaded or not. Any ideas?
Not sure what to do with a broken charger
I'm charging each battery one by one. The pins at top look like an interface, or jumper, CLK dat GND 3.3v rst
Hey there, thanks for posting this helpful vid! I have an older one (incl with trimmer) and a new one (incl with chainsaw), and both work well right now (fingers crossed). I have a tangential question.
The new batt came with a low-profile charger (OP 404), which has an external converter that indicates 120v/60w/80w in, 42v 1.5 A out.
Would it be possible to somehow supply the low profile charger from 12v DC, eg from solar controller or automotive battery/stator system? What kind of converter would I need?
Any thoughts you have about this would be super welcome. Thanks again!
You have to put 42V @ 1.5A to the charger or it will not work.
You can connect the solar panel to a 12V to 42V boost converter.
You need solar panels that put out at least 2X the power required or you will not have continuous charging.
Best thing to do is to have solar charge a 12V battery then use the battery to power a 120V inverter so you have continuous power without interruption.
@@BradKwfc this is helpful, thanks a ton! My learning continues. I figured that the logic boards on the charger and battery would only function within pretty strict ranges.
Hoping someone can help find an answer to an issue with my 40 volt battery. I have four batteries, two charge and two don't. When the two batteries are fully charged, the fuel tank meter reads full, one battery tests at 40 volts while the other tests at 20 volts?.How can it be only 20 volts? Runs thr hedge trimmer tool just fine, the charger likes it and charges it. Any help would be great
Jasonoid I seem to have the same problem that Norman Randolph
has. I have a Ryobi OP4026 showing fully charged in the charger and on the attached LED meter but powers tools for only a second. It's showing 37.5v on the "-" lead, but 86.5v on the T1 lead. The circuit board looks clean. The battery was great prior to some cold and rain. The leaf blower definitely got soaked in the rain and battery might have gotten a few rain drops on it too. Any ideas?
I actually had one battery do the same thing. After looking at everything and attempting to fix it, I figured something in the circuit board had burnt out, probably due to a short circuit. The board is dual sided so it's almost impossible to inspect both sides. Out of 8 batteries I have recovered, I only had 1 fail to this issue so I don't think its very common.
I bought the items you described on Amazon. Should be here today. How do you adjust the boost converter to get to the 38 to 40 volts that you recommend?
There is a little brass flat head screw you adjust to get the voltage to where you want. As you turn it it either goes down or up in voltage.
@@Jasonoid Thanks
I found another way that worked for me but it took some time. My Ryobi
40 volt would just flesh green/red over and over. I read that if you
take the battery out, wait for one second and put it back in. Wait for
it to triple blink red then triple green and then red again and then
take it out again. Redo that until the battery starts to act normally..
I brought the charger inside and sat on the recliner and watched TV
while I did this.. 35 minutes of rinse and repeat and WOOHOO.. my
battery started working again... Apparently the battery charges just a
little each time you do this and after 30 minutes oi so, it adds up
I'ma try
@@gryndkommeted1362 be patient with it.. I almos gave up a couple times.. Find a show that you can half pay attention to.. I did my father in-laws too and he took me out to dinner becuse it fixed his 100 dollar battery
@@leweezo33 well that is a win. I did it for 40 min and Nada. Will try again tomorrow
I've had my 40 volt tools (trimmer, mower, chainsaw & blower) for 3 years
and yesterday was the first time I've had this issue and I run them down until the tool shuts off. Tried the ol' "in and out of the charger" method and started charging after the 12th time! If that didn't do it, I was going to use jumpers between 2 batteries and try that.
@@01bluebusa Awesome.. I am a little scared of the jump start method. I watched a Nova where they messed with Lith-ion batteries and made them explode. I may be a chicken but I would hate for that to happen :)
My battery charges all the way but when I use it, it stops working at 50% what do I do
The converter isn't available anymore! Which one should I buy now?
I like my Ryobi 40v Gen II brushless chainsaw, but I have a dead baterry after 1 Year of minimal use and battery was tested bad at Home depot Grennville , Texas. I need a replacement ASP and am having trouble connecting right place to send in info?
If the battery is only 1 year old they will replace it for free. Call Ryobi support. They will need the serial number off the battery to replace it for free. Hope that helps!
So when you connect the 12 V Power Supply to the battery there is a circuit board to boost the voltage to 40 V. Where do you get this board and how is it adjustable as it is apparently down stream of the adapter / inverter.
Parts list in the description. It goes from 12 volts to 40 volts, at least mines does.
Great video bud, but how do you tell if you have a new or old type battery?
If it looks like the one in the video, it's the old design
Thanks very much for this super helpful video. I have a newer version of this battery, would you know how I could do this fix with it? It sits at 32v and reads defective I have tried jumping it from another battery and that didn't work for me. I have it opened now and can't find a CL1 solder point on mine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Connect the jumper leads to the charger
& give he battery a quick zap
Just picked up five on eBay. Hope it works.
Out of 8 that I have purchased, 6 of them work great! Pretty good odds in my opinion
Where did you get that red connector board
I have two Ryobi 40v Lithium batteries - one is the "new" kind you mentioned with 2.6Ah which is working fine, and the other is the dead one and has 4Ah. Can I just connect the terminals on both batteries with alligator clips (+ to + and - to -) to boost the dead one, and then use the wall charger to bring it up to 40v? Another question: Will either the Ryobi OP403 (with USB) or the OP404 charger revive the dead battery? Thanks.
Replied to your email, thanks Armen.
I have a few 40v that charge fine but won’t hold that charge that long, would this method help or fix that issue? Also I only have access to 24 and 48v DC, will either of these work or help? Thanks for your help
The cells inside the battery have lost their capacity. It happens over time of if the batteries sit at a low voltage to long. There isn't much to fix the batteries that wont hold a charge very long. A 48 volt DC charger would probably work, just don't let it sit to long, you only want to boost the battery up to a voltage where the charger will recognize it again.
I have the model OP40401, will this work in this model?
My older style battery reads 19.3V at the normal pos/neg connections but 38.5V at the CL1- and pos pin. Battery wont charge any further and reads green on charger but wont run any tools. Is it actually charged but a an issue with the negative pin or board?
Sometimes the circuit board gets damaged from water or gets corroded overtime in a humid environment. I have seen some with over-current issues and the circuit board looks burned in some places. Do you see any of that on your circuit board? It would probably mean you have a different issue on your battery and it might be toast. If you purchased Amazon products to fix your battery you can always return them.
Mine shows 2 bars charged. I see 18v between plus and minus terminals. 37v between T1 and plus terminals suggesting cells are all charged up. I'll open it up and take a peek inside. Edit: a bit of water damage near cell one which dropped to 2.7v all others at 3.8v. think ic protection kicked in and won't switch GND line MOSFET. Cell 1 charged to match others but MOSFET still not switching. There is a RST pin at 3.3v. should I gnd that pin momentarily? Edit. Something weird just happened. Probing terminals of T to see what resistance... Lights at front panel flashed...and now it seems all is good. 38v on terminals as it should be. Wow
My battery is at 39v and the other is at 37v , but it got 1 "dot" (low battery) and it wont charge. What can that be, and how to a test/fix it?
As per my earlier comment . . . just a photo showing my charging attempt using a lab power supply. I have incrementally slow charged all cells in series from a power supply where I can select the voltage and maximum current. This photo shows the end of a charge cycle that was set for 41V at 250 mA maxiumum. The reading shows it now at 10 mA on the current display and 20.5 V as the half voltage of the series connected output of this power supply in series mode.
As per my earlier comment, the 'fuel gauge' seems not to work and sadly the battery is still not recognized at any state of charge. I'm afraid that the dead fuel gauge is a sign that the board is not working.
BTW, the battery works well in the leaf blower and I guess I'll just have to accept slow charging all cells in series. This does not allow charge balancing of the cells which will greatly shorten their lives but no way around this unless I want to rework the entire battery pack with a ten cell charge controller. A fun project but just don't have time for that anymore.
Well, I was going to post a comment but can't seem to. I'll try a link.
photos.app.goo.gl/QZYUSzunU3GcGeUu7
Yeah, 10s chargers / balancers are very expensive. I'm sure some component on the board has died.
can you solder the cl1 to the negative terminal to bypass the circuit board and allow the Ryobi charger to charge the battery even if voltage is low?
You might not want to do that because then you are bypassing the low voltage cut off. I have only had to do this once to each battery so I would just recommend opening the case, connecting to the CL1 point, then removing the wire and putting it all back together. Thanks for watching!
Hey Jason, can't find the product Boost Step Up Converter (updated product): on amazon. What else can be used?
I updated the video description with other models that should work. Thanks for the heads up!
@@Jasonoid Those updated links seem different, I do think I found the exact replacement for the boost/buck converter with the screw terminals here though: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z5M89N1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A2A9N9TES6X0D0&psc=1 if you think it is I can update this comment to your affiliate link. Thanks for the info!
I bought one of these old Ryobi 40v OP4026 batteries, charger, and a couple weedeaters at a yardsale. I planned on harvesting the motors for an awesome very large 3d printed tank chassis I made. When I put the battery on charge, it charged up all the way then gave me the red/green flashing lights. It wont work in the weedeaters and wont work when hooking the motors directly to the battery terminals. On a multimeter, it gives about 35v but slowly drops. Is there any fix for this issue?
The circuit board is probably fried. Some people try some crazy things with these batteries like leaving them out in the rain. Open it up and inspect it for damage.
Any idea if theres a fix for the newer batteries?
A simple yes or no would be nice... why don't the producers ever reply to requests for clarification or help on their videos? Guess they've gotten what they were after and don't actually care anymore.
5:40 mine did not do that. I actually got them up to 3 out of 4 lights, about 37 volts, but whenever I put them on the charger they still flash red and green. I wonder why the charger refuses to charge them when they’re holding a charge?
I have a battery that does this same thing, you can still use the battery, it just doesn't get a complete charge.
What is different from connecting to the CL1 negative and negative battery terminal ?
Thats what I'm wondering
So I worked this same process and I was able to bring a battery up to 35V but my charger still shows defective. It’s the slide on version that doesn’t have a USB port. I’m wondering if I should get a larger base charger to see if maybe my charger is defective.
I too charged my defective battery to 35.5 volts and the charger still shows a defective battery. Any more Ideas?
amazon no longer has in stock. is there another converter and power adapter you recommend?
I just refreshed the link in the video description to sometime similar. Please refresh the video and check again.
My ryobi mower battery dies before it fully discharges. An electrician told me that it's that the relay is causing it to overheat. He told me to take the relay out of the battery. I opened the battery but don't know where the relay is. Does anyone have any suggestions?
My board does not look like this one, so I assume I must have the newer version? How do you repair of the newer one?
Check through the comments I think someone posted a way to do a new board.
awesome informative video! Can you please give the me link of that little charging device? Thanks
In the video description
Happy New Year
I suppose the same principle will apply to a 36v Ryobi ?
Regards,
K S
Im guessing it would. I haven't tested on those batteries specifically.
Where do you get the special bit that takes his screws out of the Ryobi battery it has a pain in the middle of that star-shaped screw
harbor freight
Dude I subbed immediately. Your a smart sob haha. Thanks so much I can’t wait to try. I am a bit skeptical though, just afraid of electricity. What gauge wire do you use for the different lines? Other than that I think I’m ready
You aren't charging through that wire at very high amps so you could be safe with 18 gauge wire. After boosting the battery, make sure you charge it after with the Ryobi charger.
Jasonoid so I’m testing my battery off the cl1 - and the positive hook up you showed, yet I’m reading 69. Am I reading this right? I’m skeptical to trying to keep charging
@@t-bone8404 make sure your volt meter is set to the correct DC readout. Like 20V not 200V. What does it day then? You should only charge it to 33volts.
I gather a trickle charger for a motorbike battery would not work in this application you would need the converter?
Anything that puts out 35 volts or more
After boosting and verified that the older style battery is charging . Can you now use the newer style charger with out exception?
Once boosting the battery, you can use any ryobi 40v battery charger again(new or old), you just have to get the battery's voltage up to at least 35volts..
Will this work for an OP40401? My battery starts to charge for a second or 2 then stops with a constant green light on charger.
Probably not, I haven't tried it on that battery before.
I've done this fix before like a year ago from the video that's already out that's just a video of a diagram pic basically (I'm assuming that's where you got this idea from by the method you used) and it worked for the summer but then stopped. After taking it apart again I found a few bad cells which I replaced. (Most likely because they're no longer being balanced during the jumping up the voltage) Now I'm "pretty certain" the board is ok but no way to test other than a volt meter and it appears that all my volt readings from various points seem to be right. After charging I get 43 volts from the same ground point you used to the same positive of the connector lead but when going across the main neg and pos that connects to my blower or any tool I only get 16.4 volts. So my question to you is: What reading do you get going across the 2 main external connector leads? Do you get your 40+ volts there too? I would think so but I wasn't sure if it works in a wierd way because of the circuit board and only delivers the 40v when plugged in to a tool and is being used kinda like how you can't just charge the battery by hooking the main connect pos and neg.
I only recommend 'boosting' the batteries one time to get the battery voltage above 33 volts, then the normal charger should be used each time after to charge and balance the individual batteries. I have been able to do this on all my batteries (I have 8 of them). Also, just be save in the future and not run the battery all the way down on your tool.
Avoiding the factory charger and using the boost converter it will overcharge some cells and under charge others. I don't have a battery with me at work so I can't verify what a good battery voltage shows at the main power terminals.
@@Jasonoid Yea I know, I bought like 6 for $80 bucks on EBay and it was a gamble on what was wrong between salted/corroded boards, bad cells, or as simple as just needing a jump. And after trial an error and actually getting 3 of 6 working 2 by jumping and one by swapping the circuit board (easy BTW but only if you have a GOOD solder sucker) I've messed the charger up to where I had to bridge a connection on the circuit board in that POS too so it doesn't give errors anymore, like at all. Just constantly puts outs 43.5 volts. Which is fine as long as you use a meter when charging and keep a close eye on it and manually balance your cells out. But after all this B.S. and reengineering along with quite a bit if use out of them last year....its finally came to an end so I was just wondering what someone with a good battery had a reading of before I finally give in and just purchase something besides Ryobi. LOL I guess later when you get home if you have 30 seconds to throw a meter on those 2 connect leads and let me know the result that would be pretty stellar. Thanks again for your reply brotha.
Justin
Thanks for the great video! I purchased the parts you recommended and followed the instructions. However, the step-up converter seems to max out for me at 35.5V. Even so, I connected it as shown but the battery pack's measure voltage is just the same as the output of the step-up converter without a load on it. Any ideas?
The charger should recognize the battery now that it's at 35 volts. Does it charge on the Ryobi charger?
So I picked up the charger parts you listed in the description. Max output I can get from these is 36.8vdc. Do you think that will be enough to make the charge?
you just need to get the battery to about 30 volts, then plug it into the Ryobi charger to do the rest of the charging safety. The part you bought is just to boost the voltage up so the Ryobi charger will see it again as being a good battery.
Set everything up as you have it here. Putting my alligator clip onto the positive with converter off there was a small spark from the clip to the pos terminal.
@@northeasternguy1010 theres lots of power in these batteries. Probably just a rush of power charging the capacitors on the boost converter.
My batt reads 34.9vdc before charging, It reads defective when inserted into the charger. When i remove the battery it then reads less than 10vdc slowly rising back up to about 34.9 after a few hours. Is it really shot?
Could be the circuit board that's bad, sometimes a board component gets fried. This video is for batteries that are over discharged.
I have a older 40 V Ryobi battery that says it’s full charge to Apple but will not run the blower or of the weedeater what are you do about that
That battery probably has a circuit board issue and it won't be able to be fixed. I had one that acted in a similar way. If you bought it recently, call Ryobi and they will replace it for free.
I tried this and it jumped up almost immediately, but the DC boost convertor started smoking so I unplugged it. Unsure why I can't do it. Could be the wire is not correct gauge maybe? Not sure how to adjust the convertor
Maybe you had the polarity reversed? Like negative was where the positive was supposed to go? That might be the issue.
Can you use a 12v car trickle charger? Prob not if the charger doesnt sense a 12v battery
You can try it, probably wouldn't work. Always worth a try to save a few bucks and not have to buy another product.
Any reason you can't just use a 12V battery charger with the step up voltage converter?
The battery charger probably wont sense the correct battery and might give an error or something, but I guess it's always worth trying. Let us know how it goes!
Once you bring the charge up, can't you resume charging in the oem charger?
That's what I recommend for safer charging.
Nice. Can the booster be used in place of the charger all together? Been charging mine by charging RV battery with solar panels, then using charger through an inverter. (Cutting grass with just solar charged batteries about 3 years now.) Wasting a lot of power converting DC to AC then back to DC. Wasn't an issue before. Trying to do a little too much with this 3amp 14.5v system.
Lithium ion batteries charge a very specific way (Constant Current / Constant Voltage methods). This booster is only to help the charger recognize the battery. Once it's back to normal voltage please continue to use the proper charger. Yeah, it's lame they don't offer a DC to DC charger haha
@@Jasonoid thank you. This has been my conundrum. The solar is like a 3 amp trickle charger for the RV batteries, the RV batteries are like a capacitor that keeps the voltage (relatively) consistent while running the pool pump or whatever. The inverter acknowledges the fact that the battery will be 13.8-10.5 and adjusts the output. Just wish I could use the charge regulator with a DC-DC booster to waste less power.
Can u use a car charger rated at 2 amps
@@haroldlamble5163 a car battery charger only puts out 12 volts, this battery needs at least 30 volts to get the battery up to where the battery will charge on the Ryobi charger again.
@@Jasonoid thank you.
@Jasonoid
Did everything exactly and used similar 12v adaptor at 1.5 Amp.
After Half a day my Multimeter reading stuck at 27.2 volts.
its not charging up anymore. What do you think is the problem? Thanks!
Did you try it back on the charger, that's pretty close to the normal charging voltage?
@@Jasonoid
Yes, I did that still blinking red and green.
@@Jasonoid
By the way I followed your link and bought that voltage booster.
@@scrambler008 I'm guessing the 1.5amp adapter isn't strong enough to get the voltage past where it's at or it's going to take a long time. You got anything stronger laying around? How high is the buck converter turned up.
also on new step up converter, there are 2 buttons. Do i have push for a certain setting?
I haven't tried the new converter. It may come with instructions. The Amazon seller or product page will have the best info on it. See the product comments and reviews for all details.
@@Jasonoid will this one work? www.amazon.com/dp/B07FX1JCQ2/?coliid=I2Q238LLN245HG&colid=1PRZH12VQ30OD&psc=1
@@Jasonoid will this one work? www.amazon.com/dp/B07FX1JCQ2/?coliid=I2Q238LLN245HG&colid=1PRZH12VQ30OD&psc=1
do you really need to put the case back together to charge up the battery, couldnt you leave it open untill it charges then close it withouth the wire
Yeah, that would work. I have not needed to recharge these batteries since getting them boosted up. Just don't let them discharge below 33 volts and you won't have the issue again.
Like I said where do I buy that special tip that take some screws out because it has a pain in the middle of the Starship and I can't find that tip nowhere where do I buy it please
I have my tool kit I used in the video description. It has the special security torx bit I used to open it up. Pretty cheap and comes in handy for ALL small electronics
why do you need to open the battery and solder the wire? Couldn't you just use alligator clips on the terminals used to charge the battery in the charger? Thanks!
You need to bypass the Battery Management System that shut the battery down in the first place. You can use alligator clips instead of soldering to boost the battery voltage, just clip them on to where I soldered in the video. That works perfectly fine.
Going to try your setup, but since I don't know much and have been doing a little research, isn't the amperage of the battery important? If your stepup only goes to 9 amps, and your battery is a 6 amps, then don't you need a max of 16 amps on your input voltage to get to 32 volts if your input voltage is only 12? Or does the input amperage not matter as long as it's above the minimum? 32VX16A=192 watts
When charging the battery, the level of amperage just determines how long it will take to charge the battery. 1 amp charge rate will take much longer than a 10 amp charge rate. The process in the video is here to just boost the battery voltage high enough to get the stock charger to recognize the battery again.
Does anyone know what size screws they are?
Does it work on op40602 battery
Not sure what I am doing wrong. Soldered a wire up just like you did. Testing with my multimeter shows it at 18V or so, between the positive tab and the new negative wire. When I hook up the boost converter to a pretty beefy 12v 1A power supply with built in circuit breaker, the multimeter shows output of boost converter at 35V, which is what I set it to with the little screw. When I connect that to the battery it instantly trips the breaker. I see that the charger for Ryobi puts out like 2A, so I figured I needed a more powerful supply, so when I use a 19V 6.5A power supply, the boost converter again shows 35V, but it instantly trips that breaker too when connected to the battery. No shorts, I am sure, since the multimeter connected to the battery shows a steady voltage, as expected. Any ideas?
Can you try taking out the circuit breaker, or bypassing it somehow? What amount of amperage is the circuit breaker designed to handle?
@@Jasonoid On the first supply, it turns out it was 1 AMP (even though it was a really beefy 12V power supply). On the second supply, it was 19V at 6 amps. The step-up converter is rated for 9A in, and 6A out, so I didn't want to push it. And yes, I am sure there's no short circuit, if I use my multimeter on the battery's positive terminal and the new negative wire, it shows an expected DC voltage of around 18 or so.
Will this work with a benchtop power supply set to the same 40v 3.5a settings?
Should work great, if you already have one laying around, give it a shot. I would set the voltage lower and then raise it up over time. Especially at that high amperage. Don't you use it long term, just use it to get the voltage high enough for the stock charger to recognize the battery.
@@Jasonoid Thanks!