I don't know if you said that on the video, because I stopped it at 6:02, 'cause I had other things to do...but I'm...happy with what you did with the eyes, because the original, doesn't ACTUALLY have a "looking up" face. Which was a pretty big issue...
To me it is a good memory of a hard working, dedicated man. It brings me some good memories. I don't want to give too much attention to it, although I pre ordered the figure. All tribute must be made to only One.
Hi Les, new viewer/subscriber. First watched video of yours. I appreciated your distinction between aesthetics and manufacturing design limitations, also since this is a $30ish price tag. McFarlane definitely has had quite a few great releases this is one of them. I quickly scrolled through some of your uploaded video titles and wondering if you've documented any of your action figure "hands on" process, like the dis-assembly re-assembly, the painting process, the tools you use and ect. If you already have a video like this let me know which one, thanks.
Welcome in! The water is warm, and not because it's been peed in!🤪 lol! No, seriously, I have an outdated and limited tech means of recording, so I do not, as yet, have long enough videos to show you how I truly work. I need to. Badly. I am hoping to really do that this year. But, if you click on my Playlists, the HOW TO series (there's only 5 or so thus far, and they are limited) are my meager way of showing a few things off. I need to do a nice vid, with a new figure, and do a start to finish redo. I plan to. I just got a nice Batman that I really want to try that on, so look for that soon. In the meantime, if you have any questions, any, ask. I will do my best to help with what I do. For now, no matter what water based acrylic paints you use ( For all toy plastics PVC or ABS, I use Vallejo brand found at hobby shops), I suggest investing in Mr Hobby Mr Super Clear MATT finish spray, in the grey can. Costs around $12 a can, and try and find some Intermediate Gauzy Shine Enhancer in the green bottle. With those two products, you can about finish anything. I hand paint, and do not airbrush, and I still get near perfect finishes. I prefer the control of hand painted, and can do almost anything an airbrush can. Enough of that. Look at those vids, and ask away! And WELCOME! 😉
I was eagerly awaiting your Reeve repaint. The head really needs a repaint. The first thing I’m going to do when I get this is spray him with the Mr. Super Clear to get rid of that shininess. How hard is it to remove the cape? Can’t wait to see your Platinum Evil Superman repaint.
🤓 DecDave! I can always count on you to say something fun! The head needs more than a repaint, it needs even-ing up! It's unfortunate that it's not balanced and more symmetrical. The left side of his face is quite a bit bigger than the right, and paint can't really fix that. A better headsculpt (with a more subtle chin) can. As for the Evil version, I am thinking about it. He would need a new, better cape, and since I have yet to remove one from this figure body design, we'll have to wait and see who gets it done first. It will involve some deep heating in very hot water, to remove that neck. We shall see. But, no matter what, SPRAY that rascal! He needs a shine tone down! And mist it second coat, so it will sort of build up some texture. I had to really scoop out the shoulders and joints though, so the pieces move without completely scraping the paint, or spray off. Make notes and best of luck!
Thanks. I do show it in this video. I should in every vid! lol! Mr Hobby Mr Super Clear MATT. It's a resin, made in Japan. Covers just about anything, especially toy plastic, which is hard to coat with anything, even acrylic paint. For a unified fabric finish, I usually spray a mist coat over my first coat. Makes the surface micro pebbly, which makes it look more like cloth. Just account for joints where it may rub. I trim away some of the inside areas so it is less likely to touch. Not guaranteed, but it works most of the time.
@LesWalker2023 wow fantastic thank you. Sorry because I was half listening as I was driving. Previously thought that testors matte acrylic finish was the best, But admittedly I've been underwhelmed with results. Japan makes great stuff especially for toys and I have to try that. Thanks for the tip. So you say you spray it over your first coat. Do you go back and then paint over the finish one more time with a dry brush?
@@kobocopcustoms Here's the thing, on some toys, it helps to put a coat on first, then repaint, then spray. I always post coat a toy no matter what. But, it's a coverage strategy. Some areas are not flat, and I either leave them alone, (belts sometimes, and other select surfaces) and if it is glossy, or even leathery, I use layers of Intermediate Gauzy Shine Enhancer, hand applied, to like eyes, and metallic parts, in this figure's case, his boots, which kinda look plastic, so you can spray them and just recoat with gloss. Testors and other brands are often NOT GOOD, in that they can break down over time, and get sticky. Even if it's a flat coat. That's because they are paint. Mr Hobby sprays are generally not paint so much as a resin coat. Areas I over spray on, get thick with it, and they get milky and plastic like. Practice on something else if need be.
@LesWalker2023 sounds like a perfect product that makes sense. I screwed up a custom I made by making it sticky with mod podge. I think it's basically Elmer's glue in aerosol form. But thanks for the tips here's one for you. Give Pledge floor Care finish a try for your gloss coat. Buy it once and I'll probably last you decades
@@kobocopcustoms I have, and I do like Pledge, but I find that Intermediate Gauzy is more controllable, and is self-leveling. It also provides a wonderful protective coat that waxes do not. You can even use Gauzy on top of Molotow Liquid Chrome and it won't grey it out like other coatings do. It keeps the chrome aspect and can be handled. But, thanks for the reference. A lot of folks don't know that one!
maybe just me, but looks nothing like CR. Joints are awful. McFarlane hasnt been good since mid 2ks. I think the original "4 Horseman" designers left. His original Movie Maniacs series, Austin Powers series, and Music Series was tip top and game changers. Seems he went back in time before prior to his notching the belt. Looks like he has eyeliner and blush on...... I prefer his statue figures (joints are not as visalble). Again, my opinion.
Hey, these things matter! And to a point, I agree with you. There are many DC Direct figures I like better than Mcf! Good post! Thanks for the honesty!
I do appreciate your comment. I like how, on many of the older DC Direct figures, there was no mid torso lines. You would think that McFarlane might let that go from time to time, just to capture a certain figure better.
So cool Les! Reeves is my favorite of all time. Well done :)
It looks Great!😃⭐⭐⭐⭐🦸🌄🥲
Not only is your painting fantastic but Im always impressed by your knowledge on these figures.
Thanks so much my brother! I appreciate that, coming from a master modeler!🤟😎
just. joined. your. channel. good. video. Love. SUPERMAN. Have a. good. week
Thanks! And you, too!
Love what you've done!
Thanks, buddy! 😉👍
I've gotta get me one of these!!! Awesome tribute to an awesome man!! Love the touch ups you did!! Reeve is the BEST Superman!!!
I don't know if you said that on the video, because I stopped it at 6:02, 'cause I had other things to do...but I'm...happy with what you did with the eyes, because the original, doesn't ACTUALLY have a "looking up" face. Which was a pretty big issue...
Oh by the way, Happy New Year, and sorry for my manners...🤭
Brandon Routh was amazing!
I sincerely hope McFarlane does a Routh Superman figure! I will get one if they do.
Yes, he was. But unfortunately, he was also underrated...
To me it is a good memory of a hard working, dedicated man. It brings me some good memories. I don't want to give too much attention to it, although I pre ordered the figure. All tribute must be made to only One.
Well said.
Hi Les, new viewer/subscriber. First watched video of yours. I appreciated your distinction between aesthetics and manufacturing design limitations, also since this is a $30ish price tag.
McFarlane definitely has had quite a few great releases this is one of them.
I quickly scrolled through some of your uploaded video titles and wondering if you've documented any of your action figure "hands on" process, like the dis-assembly re-assembly, the painting process, the tools you use and ect.
If you already have a video like this let me know which one, thanks.
Welcome in! The water is warm, and not because it's been peed in!🤪 lol! No, seriously, I have an outdated and limited tech means of recording, so I do not, as yet, have long enough videos to show you how I truly work. I need to. Badly. I am hoping to really do that this year. But, if you click on my Playlists, the HOW TO series (there's only 5 or so thus far, and they are limited) are my meager way of showing a few things off. I need to do a nice vid, with a new figure, and do a start to finish redo. I plan to. I just got a nice Batman that I really want to try that on, so look for that soon. In the meantime, if you have any questions, any, ask. I will do my best to help with what I do. For now, no matter what water based acrylic paints you use ( For all toy plastics PVC or ABS, I use Vallejo brand found at hobby shops), I suggest investing in Mr Hobby Mr Super Clear MATT finish spray, in the grey can. Costs around $12 a can, and try and find some Intermediate Gauzy Shine Enhancer in the green bottle. With those two products, you can about finish anything. I hand paint, and do not airbrush, and I still get near perfect finishes. I prefer the control of hand painted, and can do almost anything an airbrush can. Enough of that. Look at those vids, and ask away! And WELCOME! 😉
I was eagerly awaiting your Reeve repaint. The head really needs a repaint. The first thing I’m going to do when I get this is spray him with the Mr. Super Clear to get rid of that shininess. How hard is it to remove the cape? Can’t wait to see your Platinum Evil Superman repaint.
🤓 DecDave! I can always count on you to say something fun! The head needs more than a repaint, it needs even-ing up! It's unfortunate that it's not balanced and more symmetrical. The left side of his face is quite a bit bigger than the right, and paint can't really fix that. A better headsculpt (with a more subtle chin) can. As for the Evil version, I am thinking about it. He would need a new, better cape, and since I have yet to remove one from this figure body design, we'll have to wait and see who gets it done first. It will involve some deep heating in very hot water, to remove that neck. We shall see. But, no matter what, SPRAY that rascal! He needs a shine tone down! And mist it second coat, so it will sort of build up some texture. I had to really scoop out the shoulders and joints though, so the pieces move without completely scraping the paint, or spray off. Make notes and best of luck!
Any chance of McFarlane Knightmare Batman repaint?
Perhaps! I am after one. I don'y have one currently, but he is definately on the agenda! Thanks for asking!
Good video. Good paint job. What brand matte spray do you use?
Thanks. I do show it in this video. I should in every vid! lol! Mr Hobby Mr Super Clear MATT. It's a resin, made in Japan. Covers just about anything, especially toy plastic, which is hard to coat with anything, even acrylic paint. For a unified fabric finish, I usually spray a mist coat over my first coat. Makes the surface micro pebbly, which makes it look more like cloth. Just account for joints where it may rub. I trim away some of the inside areas so it is less likely to touch. Not guaranteed, but it works most of the time.
@LesWalker2023 wow fantastic thank you. Sorry because I was half listening as I was driving. Previously thought that testors matte acrylic finish was the best, But admittedly I've been underwhelmed with results. Japan makes great stuff especially for toys and I have to try that. Thanks for the tip. So you say you spray it over your first coat. Do you go back and then paint over the finish one more time with a dry brush?
@@kobocopcustoms Here's the thing, on some toys, it helps to put a coat on first, then repaint, then spray. I always post coat a toy no matter what. But, it's a coverage strategy. Some areas are not flat, and I either leave them alone, (belts sometimes, and other select surfaces) and if it is glossy, or even leathery, I use layers of Intermediate Gauzy Shine Enhancer, hand applied, to like eyes, and metallic parts, in this figure's case, his boots, which kinda look plastic, so you can spray them and just recoat with gloss. Testors and other brands are often NOT GOOD, in that they can break down over time, and get sticky. Even if it's a flat coat. That's because they are paint. Mr Hobby sprays are generally not paint so much as a resin coat. Areas I over spray on, get thick with it, and they get milky and plastic like. Practice on something else if need be.
@LesWalker2023 sounds like a perfect product that makes sense. I screwed up a custom I made by making it sticky with mod podge. I think it's basically Elmer's glue in aerosol form. But thanks for the tips here's one for you. Give Pledge floor Care finish a try for your gloss coat. Buy it once and I'll probably last you decades
@@kobocopcustoms I have, and I do like Pledge, but I find that Intermediate Gauzy is more controllable, and is self-leveling. It also provides a wonderful protective coat that waxes do not. You can even use Gauzy on top of Molotow Liquid Chrome and it won't grey it out like other coatings do. It keeps the chrome aspect and can be handled. But, thanks for the reference. A lot of folks don't know that one!
Thighs too thin and nose too wide. Otherwise excellent. Needs a smiling alternate head.
Hadn't noticed the nose before. Good call!
LO QUIERO COMPRAR.🤩🦸♂️
Can't have this one! 😉Hope you find one online or at a store soon! Best of luck!
I have the Neca CR Superman ,7 inch and 18 inch. I think I'll pass on the McFarlane
If I had those two I wouldn't unless you just want an extra one around. That 18 is a nice figure!
maybe just me, but looks nothing like CR. Joints are awful. McFarlane hasnt been good since mid 2ks. I think the original "4 Horseman" designers left. His original Movie Maniacs series, Austin Powers series, and Music Series was tip top and game changers. Seems he went back in time before prior to his notching the belt. Looks like he has eyeliner and blush on...... I prefer his statue figures (joints are not as visalble). Again, my opinion.
Hey, these things matter! And to a point, I agree with you. There are many DC Direct figures I like better than Mcf! Good post! Thanks for the honesty!
I despise mid torso articulation. It really ruins the look of any figure.
I do appreciate your comment. I like how, on many of the older DC Direct figures, there was no mid torso lines. You would think that McFarlane might let that go from time to time, just to capture a certain figure better.
If only the nose wasn't so fat. McFarlane came close, but didn't nail the likeness.
I agree. I may come back and try to trim the width of the nose myself. Tricky operation, but possible.
@@LesWalker2023 Perhaps an X-acto knife, and sanding
Not a good head sculpt.
Not the best for sure. Not awful, but not what it could have been.
NECA's and Mezco's are still the best Reeves figures.
I wish they were in the larger 7 inch scale though.