Fiberglass has to be laminated in order to perform ballistically or structurally. Kinda feel like these videos were done just to show homemade armor failing. Any amount of research or attention to detail would have lead to a better finished product.
Would be interesting to see if a better quality welding blanket would do better. Is thicker and tighter weave. I think the poor performance compared to resin bonded welding blanket is because the fibers are pushed apart.
Increasing the oz of fabric or the weave pattern won’t work. Instead, laminating each layer in mold making urethane would hold the strands together. Also, fiberglass should be cut from a roll and handled carefully to prevent snapped strands or disruption to the weave.
Welding blankets are just not the right stuff... they dont need to " make them better'(more expensive) because they work fine for catching sparks , slag and grinder dust.
What about mixing other materials with the welding blanket, such as leather, paper, and Flex Seal? All easily accessible materials, and affordable. Even permeating the fiberglass fabric with regular latex paint might improve its performance.
What about mixing silicone and mineral spirits to thin the silicone, and then soaking the whole panel in the silicone and let dry? It would give it some structure but still remain flexible.
can create a level 2A/2 with 16 layers of the welding blanket plus 12 layers of s-glass (Bondo Autozone stuff) and 2 bottles of $10ea “matrix” materials and one other $2 item - and it will be “soft” just as Hyperline, Hardwire, Alpha Elite soft-panels are … can’t “crumple” but you can bend and fold it and it will contour to your body in conceal carrier … both plates and full coverage (with sides&shoulder coverage). If you send the materials I’ll create, record, and send finished plate back for you to shoot …. **And I don’t use stitching at all. Also - can send DIY how to turn an “expired” vest into refurbished 2-3A soft panels/plates and even up to- level IV plates (with $25-$40 for soft & with $40-$70 to convert to level 4 …and still be within the industry average for width and weight. Requires $10-$20 for additional product(s), but the 22-24”W x16”H lower 12.5”W upper panel of level 2 or 3A for $30-$40 …..this is ALL to make something that would pass NIJ testing
I am looking to make some small test armour panels with a backing plate of 3mm titanum, obviously it will not be soft, but better rigid and save a few broken bones.:)
Imagine making a full size padded gambeson with this method. Bullet proof viking
The fiberglass welding blanket only really works with fiberglass resin but I guess I wouldn't be soft body armor
Fiberglass has to be laminated in order to perform ballistically or structurally. Kinda feel like these videos were done just to show homemade armor failing. Any amount of research or attention to detail would have lead to a better finished product.
It's a b.a. company posting a video about diy b.a. solutions.
They'd lose profit by showing real solutions.
The Call of Duty armour stack IRL.
Well at least you’ll be three times as warm with the welding blankets, as you are dying…
Would be interesting to see if a better quality welding blanket would do better. Is thicker and tighter weave. I think the poor performance compared to resin bonded welding blanket is because the fibers are pushed apart.
Increasing the oz of fabric or the weave pattern won’t work. Instead, laminating each layer in mold making urethane would hold the strands together. Also, fiberglass should be cut from a roll and handled carefully to prevent snapped strands or disruption to the weave.
Welding blankets are just not the right stuff... they dont need to " make them better'(more expensive) because they work fine for catching sparks , slag and grinder dust.
What about mixing other materials with the welding blanket, such as leather, paper, and Flex Seal? All easily accessible materials, and affordable. Even permeating the fiberglass fabric with regular latex paint might improve its performance.
What about mixing silicone and mineral spirits to thin the silicone, and then soaking the whole panel in the silicone and let dry? It would give it some structure but still remain flexible.
24 mm on the back of the vest and hitting the sternum could be devastating
can create a level 2A/2 with 16 layers of the welding blanket plus 12 layers of s-glass (Bondo Autozone stuff) and 2 bottles of $10ea “matrix” materials and one other $2 item - and it will be “soft” just as Hyperline, Hardwire, Alpha Elite soft-panels are … can’t “crumple” but you can bend and fold it and it will contour to your body in conceal carrier … both plates and full coverage (with sides&shoulder coverage). If you send the materials I’ll create, record, and send finished plate back for you to shoot …. **And I don’t use stitching at all. Also - can send DIY how to turn an “expired” vest into refurbished 2-3A soft panels/plates and even up to- level IV plates (with $25-$40 for soft & with $40-$70 to convert to level 4 …and still be within the industry average for width and weight. Requires $10-$20 for additional product(s), but the 22-24”W x16”H lower 12.5”W upper panel of level 2 or 3A for $30-$40 …..this is ALL to make something that would pass NIJ testing
I m actually impressed, how bad it is... So, welding blanked, crossed of the list.
Good work
Paul Harrell fleece blanket back stop
How can I buy it 😊
Dumb question. What if you replaced say 4 or 8 of the 28 layers with steel window screen? It would add weight, but may add some rigidity and strength.
I am looking to make some small test armour panels with a backing plate of 3mm titanum, obviously it will not be soft, but better rigid and save a few broken bones.:)
A phone book would block 9mm better and be cheaper
"Promo SM"