Vintage Gravel Bike Rebuild - Claud Butler Touring Bike
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- Something a little different today - a strip down and rebuild of an early 90s Claud Butler touring bike and adding some slightly more modern gravel touches.
-- BIKE SPECS DOWN HERE! --
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Bike Spec & Product Links
Frame : Reynolds 531 Tubing 51.5cm Centre to Centre / 53cm Centre to Top
Handlebars : One One "Midge"
Grips : Deda Handlebar Tape
Shifters : Shimano 600 SL-BS50 (2x8 Speed)
Brake Levers : Shimano 600 BL-6401
Stem : Ambrosi Threadless (With Quill Stem Adapter)
Headset : Tange
Fork :
Brakes : Tektro Mini V
Brake Pads : Tektro / Kool Stop Thinline
Wheels : Hubs - Shimano Deore LX (HB-M563) Front / Shimano Silent Clutch (FH-R080) Rear
Rims - FL 1319D-A 700C (622x19)
Tyres : Panaracer Fairweather For CX 700x32C
Seatpost :
Seat Clamp : CrMo Seatpin
Saddle : DDK Ego
Front Derailleur : Shimano 600 FD-6400
Rear Derailleur : Shimano 600 RD-6400
Crankset : Sakae SX
Chainring : Sakae 52/42
Bottom Bracket : 68 x 118mm Cartridge
Chain : SRAM PC-830
Cassette : Shimano HG41 11-32T
Pedals :
Decals : Original
Paint : Original
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A part of me died when you filed the forks.
Agreed
Nice work although 10y from now somebody will be putting a "period correct" bar and quill stem back on :) Filing the fork was quite sketchy although you probably didn't remove much material. A theoretically better hack would be to try to crush the blades a bit flatter with something like two bits of metal and some bolts, a bit like crimping a chainstay. But the fork is completely unsupported and rather safety critical so you have to be careful. I would have put the cantis back on.
Most framebuilders don't recommend crimping the forks.
Beautiful bike, great find despite the issues with the steerer thread and BB. Parts are not overly worn and not too many scratches. Looks stylish and sleek. Yet I might have done a few things differently: put on a compact 50/34 crankset, for even better climbing. Leave the original cantis on and update with better brake pads. If you want to go with V's, use Mini-V's; the long arm V's you are using do not properly work with road brake levers. And a little tip: fill the gap between the steerer and stem, around the stem adapter, with spacers and it will look much neater and as if it truly is a 1 1/8 headset.
Thanks Marcus. The brakes are mini Vs! They work great. A compact crankset would have been great too but budget was tight unfortunately
Gorgeous. And old steel frame is it's own suspension.
I bet that rig is going to ride sublimely on less than stellar roads.
Thanks! I’ll soon find out how it rides! Some canal paths should test it out nicely.
I want one! Love the bartape colour, works well with the frame and tanwalls 😎
I have an old Cannondale tourer (st600 I think?) that I need to build up, this just gave me some motivation to do it! 😍
Shame about the brake situation, but that fork was a bit messed up anyway. The damage looked like a combination of the stem being too deep and a washer nub thing-hate those things 😫
*Better not tell people around here that I’ve drilled two holes in a handlebar to route the cable!* 🤫
😂
Tbf, I was going to stick a honey Brooks B17 on it too but… Selling it with that would be a nightmare 😅
Beautiful frame and I've loved every TriColor group set I've used. Thanks for the video.
Yeah tricolor is awesome 😌 Definitely up there with the favourite groups
I just built an old Reynolds 531 framset for allroad/gravel with Shimano 600 drivetrain. The rear had already been spread to 130mm. I put a 9-speed cogset on the rear and it works like a champ.
Regarding pulling crank threads out, make sure your tool has grease on all threads so it twists as smooth as possible. Next, when you thread the tool into the crank, only make it barely finger-tight. In fact, you want to torque the tool into the cranks as little as possible, but at the same time, you want the tool to engage with all the threads. If you thread the tool into the crank with extra torque, you're already applying forces on those threads before you even begin extracting the cranks.
Once you begin twisting the inner piece of the tool to pull the cranks out, give the extractor pin a good amount of torque, then take a pause. Now, heat up the crank-spindle area and give it some taps with a hammer. Tapping the crank tool axially may help too, but be gentle since you may otherwise damage the BB. Then, apply more torque to your wrench. Spraying PB blaster, Liquid Wrench, etc., onto the crank-spindle interface is a good idea. Repeat as many times as necessary.
These steps helped me extract alloy square-taper cranks off an '85 Rockhopper that sat in the sun for over 4 years. It had quite a few siezed parts due to the alloy-steel corrosion. If I didn't take the time to follow these steps, I surely would have ruined the Specialized ST-2 crankset.
Ah sometimes the crank threads are just too brittle.
Good tips if you know the crank arm is seized on.
Great bike, never understood the gear ratios on some of these touring bikes. They must’ve been a lot fitter back then….
Hy guy, a very nice refurbishment of this vintage bike. Such a elegant black and shiny chrome parts. Thanks for this video and have a wonderful day 👍🌞🍀😎
Thanks. You too!
Nice I think the fenders would still look nice with a bit of polish good to see you back happy building bro😎
You know what… I think I might try and dig out those mudguards and see how they look. I can’t remember if they were cracked or not.
Great work Mark.
Cheers Mike!
Great restomod. Personally wouldn’t have bothered with the v-brakes with how much trouble they gave you. Filing the fork would have been a deal breaker.
Awesome I did this with an old pioneer 501 and yes same issue shorter stem required!
How short did you go?
@@MonkeyShred if I remember correctly 60-70mm no bigger!
The recent 11-speed Dura Ace bar-end shifters still have the left-hand thread but lose the friction option, giving those 600 shifters from aeons ago a big advantage in my view.
They don’t have the friction, even on the front shifter? That’s disappointing!
@@MonkeyShred Sorry, Monkey, I wasn't clear. They still have friction on the left with no clicks, making feathering the front derailleur a breeze, but no friction on the right. If you bend a derailleur or hanger out in the wilds you have lost an important option.
If you often find the treads on your cranks ripping out, I'd check the condition of your crank extractor, had a similar problem myself,then bought a new one and none since!
It’d be disappointed if it was the extractor. It’s a Park Tool one so I’d expect it to last a bit longer.
Mind you… I’m already on my second after the first one had the centre pin snap.
Cyclo England make a good crank extractor,I find I have to use a cheap eBay puller to extract the bolts at times though.
I did exactly the same conversion to my 1982 Claud Butler. I had the same problem with the brakes. The frame was never intended to take c-brakes. The fork blades are far too close together to accommodate v-brakes . V brakes are for mountain bikes. The bike was manufactured with cantilever brakes only. They are easily obtainable and with the correct levers are as good as C-brakes. Filing the fork blades is potentially dangerous.
For c-brakes read v-brakes !
V brakes are used on different bikes, not just MTB but yes, the fork blades are too close
Cool build, I just threw together a gravel bike from an old moto becane!
Nice! Is it a classic pink colour?
@@MonkeyShred I wish, it is black and red
Raising the stakes I see. Next time: watch me take an angle grinder to this Yeti prototype. That’ll wind em up
🤣🤣🤣🤣😍
😂 I can’t wait to get my hands on a Yeti prototype!
I put short and angled Wake stem on my bike and it works great. Quill adapter and I think 17 degree stem.
Good to know thanks! I was looking around at others so I’ll have a look for Wake too
Shimano 600 is the greatest. Especially the cranks.
Yeah it is pretty robust.
Nice build
Thanks!
Very nice!
Thanks.
Love these really old bikes! I have a 100 year old CCM that I occasionally do work on. I need some new rims for it probably going to go 650b as 700c seems too big (rubbing on fenders) and 26ers will probably cause pedal strikes. Please find some more of those 1920s and 1930s bikes those vids are my favourites haha
Why not restore it with fitting Shimano 600 breaks and keep it as original as possible? Everywhere on UA-cam, everyone keeps building "gravel bikes" these days. Remembers me of the time when old speed bikes were turned into touring bikes. Trends, I guess...
Because Tri Color brakes are calipers for road bikes, not cantilever. I wanted to try the added braking power of mini Vs too
Really like the build. I love the matching Deda tape with the tan wall tyres but I wish you stayed with the canti brakes but that's just me🤷♂️ Keep up the good work 👍
Speaking from painful experience, those super wide Midge bars are set far to low. They feel really good for the first few months but they are designed for MTBs with taller front ends so either book an appointment with a physio or buy a really tall stem 👍...aside from that the rest of the bike is also kinda hideous...in a nice way ✌️
Yeah I can already tell that from sitting on it for the first time 😅
if you have a paint brush you can spray the paint brush with the can to apply the paint to the bike
Really fun build, however the canti's have infinitely more class than the mini v's, and when set up right they can be great brakes. The filing of the fork lug was a little bit hacky, but to each their own. Entertaining content as usual!!!
The title of your channel is rat bike… you should appreciate the filing 😉 I agree cantis can be set up nice and strong and more often than not look better but for the mass market appeal… I think Vs have to go on.
@@MonkeyShred Fair Play 😅
even with mini-v's you still need a long pull brake lever, and preferably a set with a quick release button.
@@carlosgaspar8447 no you don’t…
21:18 this is heartbreaking
Had to be done to fit those pads in 😫
@@MonkeyShred Did you try to modify the pads first?
@@GrindersKeepers or buy different brakes?
@@GrindersKeepers nope. It was only 10mm off an extended lug. If I modified the pad, the next person might be in for a shock when they try to fit new ones.
Anything else, dunno the last time I saw such a hideous 'fix'.
Hello, very good restoration work, although I must admit that I had a heart attack when I saw that you used the file to fit the brake pads. Regarding the cover of the changes, I recommend you wrap a part in the handlebar tape, since when using the lower part of the drop, sometimes the hands are entangled there. I tell you this as an experience since I also use endbars shifters. The other thing, did you use conventional vbrakes? I used those with road brakes and it gets a horrible touch.
They’re mini V brakes 😌 they work with cantilever / calliper levers. A nice alternative!
I have found the only trouble with old touring bikes is the limited tyre clearance. However old, steel hybrids are just the ticket.....got myself a Trek 750, and it's a corker, for £40!
PS.... should've kept a quill stem. Threadless adapters are fugly on skinny, steel frames.
Nice work,im going to try to freshen up a worn out 91 trek singletrack 950.no experience working on bicycles
Good luck! I did a 3 part series on a similar bike showing beginners the ins and outs of things.
@@MonkeyShred thanks I'll look it up
The threads on the fork are salvageable by brazing them up and re-cutting the thread
Good to know!
Very nice indeed. Black mudguards would make it complete.
Might have to be some of those clip on style. The old silver ones it had dont quite fit in the fork.
I’ve got my eye on one of these in my size. Gotta love a bit of 531. Might fit North road bars to it if I can get it. I promise I won’t fit BMX bars this time…
Some North Road could work! A nice back sweep.
@@MonkeyShred Yeah I’ve ordered a pair for the Triumph but I might use it on the Eagle. I missed the Claud on eBay.
There are some stem adapters that aren't tapered like that, which avoids that ugly neck. I think one of those with a couple of 1" silver spacers would look seamless coupled with a silver stem.
I don’t mind the look personally. Interested to know how that works though. 22.2mm to 28.6mm without a taper?
@@MonkeyShred probably didn't express myself properly, the taper is always there but the transition is abrupt, which makes it easier to hide - like the Profile Design adapter, for example
@@alexdcpe ahhhhhhhhh ok I get it!
interesting and a bit different to the usual 1x gravel-bike builds. nice one 🙂
i hope you've got a use for the beautiful period Cinelli bars and stem?
Thanks. Regarding the Cinelli… I sold them both! Just to try and claw some of the build costs back.
An excellent bike - castrated for what ?
Shits and giggles.
Really need the Tektro short V pull levers with those brakes ... Loads of clearance on my 531 frame for pads. Something odd going on there .. The early 600 rear road mech will not like that 32 sprocket either. A Carrera crossfire type frame might make for a better gravel bike conversion project
Never heard of those levers before but I’m already running a set of mini vs with some Sram Apex levers and they work great.
This frame has loads of clearance for the pads too 🤷 it’s the fork that’s the issue.
The 600 derailleur isn’t designed for 32 but it didn’t struggle getting on to it as demonstrated. Long term use though, who knows.
Try splitting a nut to attach it on a lower part of the fork threads to run it upwards?
I have no idea what you mean.
How is the pull ratio between the break leavers and V-brakes??
Hi, bit of a random one but where did you get your cotter pin press from? Thanks
As used in your other vids…
It was a random find on eBay but it’s basically a copy of one made in the US
Hi,
I got a vintage Atala road frame (around 1970). The bottom seat has widened, so that the lower headset cup is loose. I tried a strip of aluminium to fix it, but the fork still feels loose. Can you recommend a fix?
Oh yeah.
Would've chosen bullhorn handlebars, especially with the bar end shifters. That way, they're in the right place when riding in the most used hand position. Who actually uses the drops anyway...
Watching this a year late, I can't believe you filed the fork instead of going back to canti brakes. Zero benefit to v brakes vs canti in overall stopping power, any mechanic worth their salt can get them working just as well. Sure v-brakes take less effort for the same power usually, but both can easily lock up both wheels. Which is all one needs.
Would it be possible to sand the back of the rubber pads (outboard) instead of filing the frame?
I haven’t touched the frame…
And if I filed the pads, what happens when the next person tries to replace them?
@@MonkeyShred so what's happening @ 21:27 ? Cheers eager to learn.
@@seakayaker20 filing the lug on the fork.
If you had reversed the washers on the bake pads you may have had the clearance you would have needed instead of buying different pads.
Reversing the washers doesn’t change the spacing between the rim and the fork blade…
is it comfortable to ride these reach? Sure quil stem fit these build better
I haven’t had a proper ride out yet but it’s not the best. It’s pretty much the same reach as before though - it’s just a lot lower - partially because the old stem was ran way too high.
I hope you find modern quil stems for 31.8 bars for sale someday
@@deaf1030 it still is technically a quill stem… it just needs a shorter, perhaps adjustable angle threadless on there
Great videos but surely just put the cantis back on rather than file the fork for Vs.
Why are you not just cutting the brake pads to not go in the fork instead of filing the fork :) ?
So… if I sell the bike and then the next person changes brakes pads… they’re going to quickly find they won’t fit. Taking 10mm off the lug isn’t going to be a problem.
@@MonkeyShred Yeah, its weird.
Do the old or original calipers where further away in front of the fork so the pads could clear ?
@@Zeben84 yes the Tektro that were on it were front loaded so sat further away
@@MonkeyShred Why are you not using them then ?
@@Zeben84 because mini Vs are arguably stronger better brakes which I bought specially for this bike. And I don’t have the Tektro cantis anymore.
How come your muc off is foamy?
Foamy? Doesn’t it normally foam up when you spray it on being soap?
@@MonkeyShred mine doesn’t
@@richardidle1289 strange. I don’t know then.
What happened to the BSA?????
Which BSA?
@@MonkeyShred How many do you have? The yellow/black one with the drum brakes and crusty fork. The 'Club'? In all it's path racer glory!
@@brianmaldonado3723 ok that one. Yeah I’m not sure. In this current environment I’m having second thoughts about finishing it.
What's with the funny angled handlebars? Looks very awkward to squeeze the levers. ...and put the cantis back on, please...................
muinto top mesmo
But a gravel bike isn't just a vintage mountain bike?
No. Not really.
Seriously not a good build, I can't like a franckencised bike, filing 700c forks to fit brake blocks? Wtf? Mostof your builds are spot on, but this is silly.
Silly because of one adaptation or because it’s just not your cup of tea?
@@MonkeyShred waste of another complete classic that's now basterdised. I'm. Not your enemy I'm just expressing opinion. I love most of your builds, but surely can disagree with some.... As friends and fellow old bike folk?
A little sketch, this one.🤔
Why?
First !
Congrats!
Awful. Clumsy build
Thank you 🥰