It now has a digital 9.9 on my "Coolness Wind Tunnel" rating. Ole Henry would most likely give you a handshake for saving 3+ inches of sheet metal from every "Shoe Box Business Coupe" made. He would so happy, he would switch from 6 volt DC to 12 volt DC a year early just so he wouldn't be last! This is something I have never seen done, only bits and pieces at a time. I know you got a ways to go, but my golly gee wiz, Nick. What progress! You are the metal master in my list of "Go To" guys if I needed help. DK, Omaha.
Good evening, don't you love it when a plan comes together. I do like the whole flow of the roof line and windows. That rear window staying in the same location allows it to look like Ford realized that this was a better plan. Thanks for the great video. You take care and good luck with this project.
Hi Steve, Thanks 👍 Ford did come out with a concept back in the early 2000's - called the Ford Forty-Nine. Between that and a T-Bird concept, they chose to produce the T-Bird. I've always loved that concept and when I was planning what to do with this heap I drew inspiration from some of the design elements on that car.
You can see exactly what needs to be done to make this all work out. Thank you for taking the time to explain. Otherwise I would just be looking at a bunch of cut up metal.
Thank you! In most cases it allows a guy to keep stock glass. Keep an eye out for a future '56 Windsor Roof Chop video. Gonna have some fun with that one!!
Its so great to see a Father and Son team work together . Really enjoying and learning how to Slant the front A pillar. And working the roof line back to the rear window , great job !
Unbelievable work I love watching old school guys.so much knowledge and patiences I am 51 I know a little with bodywork and motors but wish I had some one like you to show me the rite way to do things back in the day I hope the younger people are watching your videos.thank you for your time and hard work.
Looks like the proportions are spot on ... cool way to do it ... again I personaly like the shoebox tail lites but I'll reserve judgment till I see your idea ... gonna be a cool driver ...
That is so beautiful. I chopped one back in 1962 and didn't know what the hell I was doing as an 18 year old kid. You have shown me my mistakes and at the same time created outstanding art. Bravo Nick for an outstanding job and a special thank you for the narrative on how and why. Don't forget to put a cardboard photo of Rob't. Mitchum from "Thunder Road" in place of the driver's side window.
Hey Nick, great work as always . Showing once again a different approach to achieving the old custom look we all want in these old shoeboxes . Slanted A pillar with heat and flow everything from there . Excellent ,
This is slowly becoming a lost art, because it's not an easy transformation by any means!!! Not many people can do this and do it right!! I just hope if the United States doesn't get blown up with the way things are going right now, great people like yourself will hammer on my friend!!! If it comes down to chopping electric cars, then I know it will surely be the end!!! Thank you for teaching hopefully the young generation that might be watching, and for sharing your time with us !!!
Roof line looks good in the back going into the window. Can't wait to see the side glass, can't picture what you're going to do. Keep up the awesome videos. 👌
Except for a seam so you can open the door - door and 1/4 window glass flush/smooth front to back. From the outside no visible post in the middle... though you may see darker area on the inside through the tinted glass. Hope that helps. Be a few weeks before we get onto that part. Thanks for watching
I agree chopping tops on cars past 1932 are not easy because of the curves and radiuses. My dad tells me you have to learn how to do shrinking. Where you heat the metal and cool it.
He's very right! We'll be doing a much more complicated chop on a 1956 Chrysler Windsor soon. Check out that build when you get a chance. Wishing you and yours all the best in 2024!
I like it. Not to drastic. Myself, I prefer to retain the B pillar. It all boils down to preferences. It will be interesting to see how you do the hardtop effect. Will you be able to eliminate the door / quarter panel rattle inherent in most 2 door hardtop cars of the 50s and 60s?
Hi there, very cool video . Is there any chance you could explain what you ment with the overlap on the panels with a but joint? I didn’t quite understand. Many thanks it’s looking choice, Jonny. NZ.
When a joint is overlapped one layer of metal is placed over another. Great for strength such as for a floor pan joint(seam sealed after to prevent moisture intrusion). However, not good if one wants to hammer and dollie to finish. When one butts two sheets together and welds them together the weld can be stretched using a hammer against a dollie. Great for joining body panels. My template was a little long and if I had traced it onto the metal the metal section would have been too large thereby overlapping the surrounding metal. In the following video you can see how overlap joints are used to create strength ua-cam.com/video/rPkVFCuhwpY/v-deo.html And if you click here you can see how metal panels are finished when they are butt welded. ua-cam.com/video/G6vUc_iuCpw/v-deo.html Hope this helps. Thanks for the thumbs up Jonny!
Very nice, chopped look is cool, but I have never liked the narrow windshields. Keeping the original windshield height makes the whole look and factory created.
Nice work Nick Looks great !👍 I’ve done a few Chops myself including a 1950 ford Convertible ! I’ve only slanted rear windows and chopped the front . At least you can use standard front glass which is a lot easier ! From Down Under 🦘 Cheers Andy 😎
As with most any chop the windows have to be either cut down or made. In this case I didn't need to touch the rear window at all and the rest of the glass was missing/broken so I cut some fresh windows for the side and front. Got a new project in the works, a 56 Chrysler Windsor, that we'll be chopping... thats gonna be fun as the front and rear are wrap around! Thanks for watching Glenn!
It takes A LOT more work to have it open/close and seal well as I will show you on the 56 Windsor we're currently building. Be a few weeks till we get to that though... as we just about finished Stage 1. Check it out ua-cam.com/video/4oeE4Yp0se8/v-deo.html Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts. I appreciate that.
Great question James. One could do that, just a little more to weld. As for the small crook in the B pillar, good eye. That is only acting as a support for now. It will be removed and reconstructed internally. Thanks for watching.
@@iNVisionPrototypes I just fell onto your channel, really enjoyed watching it, you do good work, shame your videos have a lot missing of the work, I know its hard to do the downloads, edits and all, just saying.
@@iNVisionPrototypes Just to see you doing the welding as on the rear pillar, you had a cardboard cutout then next frame it was all welded up, I guess you want to show a decent length video without lots of boring welding, well for me, Ive seen people weld in lots of different ways, from gas welding to MIG, TIG and stick, but even then they dont all MIG the same, so I personally would have liked to see how you went about it, anyway, Im going to follow you some, because of the quality of work you do.
@@jamesmatheson5115 I'll see what I can do about working welding into a future video. From past experience on previous vids I can see viewer engagement drops during the welding process. My Dad usually gas welds panels, I'll TIG or MIG depending. Thanks for the support! 👍
Lookin good. Where is your cut line going to be on the front of the door? Where it is now, or lower? Agree with comment below; I like the stock taillights and quarter panel shape.
@@frankschwartz7405 Ahh, I got it. 👍Actually, the top door perimeter was welded back onto the door(check it out again) and will open with the door as the original did. Only difference will be that the B pillar on both the door and 1/4 window won't be seen from the exterior.
U commented about extending the fender, unless u had the lights from the other body, sence those light buckets on bolt and move to the back of fenders holes could be drilled for light alignment instead of trying to adjust from the back side
@@mitchbarber3468 I've got a little trick to make adjusting frenched headlights lights easier than the repeated removal method. Will share in a future video.
Initially I was thinking about those, but then I needed to figure out how to incorporate the Infiniti door handles and make them work. In the next episode I'll go into a little more detail on 'the plan'. Thanks for watching!
Sacrilege, like tattoos and implants on a woman your destroying the natural look. Start from scratch i say, that takes talent and men's ingenuity to create from bare metal.
Hi Danethanor, If you haven't seen, we also know a thing or two about 4'x8' flat sheet bare metal fabrication. Take a moment to check out our other builds... from the custom 1940 Ford Hardtop Coupe to the blue 500HP mid engine sports car. Both of those were built entirely from the ground up. The '51 didn't have much left so it was a perfect candidate for a body swap and to have some fun with the proportions. Thanks for watching! 👍
I remember when you wheeled that huge long panel in ONE piece on the 40 front end. Just about flipped. Some of us have some experience.. I’d love to see some photos of the stuff the keyboard warriors make sometimes. Few cars lend themselves so well to a chop. Kudos Nick, et al, from Montreal
It now has a digital 9.9 on my "Coolness Wind Tunnel" rating. Ole Henry would most likely give you a handshake for saving 3+ inches of sheet metal from every "Shoe Box Business Coupe" made. He would so happy, he would switch from 6 volt DC to 12 volt DC a year early just so he wouldn't be last!
This is something I have never seen done, only bits and pieces at a time. I know you got a ways to go, but my golly gee wiz, Nick. What progress! You are the metal master in my list of "Go To" guys if I needed help. DK, Omaha.
Thanks very much Dean!!
@@iNVisionPrototypes I enjoy your work!
Very informative about your thought process.
Glad you found it helpful!
Most people have only seen a top sectioned (myself included), but have never seen one laid back. Very cool process...thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching! 👍👍
Good evening, don't you love it when a plan comes together. I do like the whole flow of the roof line and windows. That rear window staying in the same location allows it to look like Ford realized that this was a better plan. Thanks for the great video. You take care and good luck with this project.
Forgot to add that not changing the window holes allows you to use standard windows instead of custom made windows.
Hi Steve, Thanks 👍 Ford did come out with a concept back in the early 2000's - called the Ford Forty-Nine. Between that and a T-Bird concept, they chose to produce the T-Bird. I've always loved that concept and when I was planning what to do with this heap I drew inspiration from some of the design elements on that car.
You can see exactly what needs to be done to make this all work out. Thank you for taking the time to explain. Otherwise I would just be looking at a bunch of cut up metal.
Exactly what I thought 😏
I used to love the peace and quiet of working at night.
@Vette 👍
@TrampTruck Yes, Sir... it's a great time to focus and get things DONE!
I like that chop!
Thank you! In most cases it allows a guy to keep stock glass. Keep an eye out for a future '56 Windsor Roof Chop video. Gonna have some fun with that one!!
Its so great to see a Father and Son team work together . Really enjoying and learning how to Slant the front A pillar. And working the roof line back to the rear window , great job !
Thanks 👍
Nick, you do fabulous work which anyone would be proud to drive!
👍
Unbelievable work I love watching old school guys.so much knowledge and patiences I am 51 I know a little with bodywork and motors but wish I had some one like you to show me the rite way to do things back in the day I hope the younger people are watching your videos.thank you for your time and hard work.
Thanks for watching Michael!
Like #1. Coming along well, love the roofline.
Thanks 👍
Hi Nick the build is taking shape nicely. Thanks for sharing all of your hard work and also sharing you video. Take care.
Thanks 👍
Looks like the proportions are spot on ... cool way to do it ... again I personaly like the shoebox tail lites but I'll reserve judgment till I see your idea ... gonna be a cool driver ...
Thanks Joe! 👍
That is so beautiful. I chopped one back in 1962 and didn't know what the hell I was doing as an 18 year old kid. You have shown me my mistakes and at the same time created outstanding art. Bravo Nick for an outstanding job and a special thank you for the narrative on how and why. Don't forget to put a cardboard photo of Rob't. Mitchum from "Thunder Road" in place of the driver's side window.
Thanks very much Richard. Was watching Thunder Road on TCM doing the Christmas holidays... great inspiration! lol! 👍👍
Better job than Bad Chad. You have a plan .
Everyone has their own way of doing things. Thanks for watching Gary!!
WELL DONE ---- DIFFERENT AND CREATIVE --- EFECTIVE WAY OF CHOPING A TOP ---- USING METHOD'S THAT MANY PEOPLE HAVE NEVER SEEN BEFORE --- !
Thanks Richard!! 👍
Holy smokes! That looks AMAZING!! 👌 🔥 😍
Thank you!
Had to watch this one yet again. Wondering what you'll do to the Windsor.
Hey Nick, great work as always . Showing once again a different approach to achieving the old custom look we all want in these old shoeboxes . Slanted A pillar with heat and flow everything from there . Excellent ,
Thanks 👍
- Not sure if it could look more RIGHT. 👍👍😎👍👍
Wait till the next episode.. there are more changes coming!.. Hope I don't mess it up now.
thanks for taking the time to upload these videos Nick. this is a fantastic project. nice work.
Thanks Russell! 👍👍
Absolutely amazing work!
Glad you like it!
This is slowly becoming a lost art, because it's not an easy transformation by any means!!! Not many people can do this and do it right!! I just hope if the United States doesn't get blown up with the way things are going right now, great people like yourself will hammer on my friend!!! If it comes down to chopping electric cars, then I know it will surely be the end!!! Thank you for teaching hopefully the young generation that might be watching, and for sharing your time with us !!!
Our pleasure! Thanks for watching 👍
If FOMOCO was reintroducing this body style I think this is how it would be done. Really enjoying this build.
Thanks Bob! Bet many youngsters don't know about FOMOCO! ha! It's on EVERYTHING when you work on this brand. 👍👍
Great project! love the smoke wrench work.......
LOL! You and me both!
Roof line looks good in the back going into the window. Can't wait to see the side glass, can't picture what you're going to do. Keep up the awesome videos. 👌
Except for a seam so you can open the door - door and 1/4 window glass flush/smooth front to back. From the outside no visible post in the middle... though you may see darker area on the inside through the tinted glass. Hope that helps. Be a few weeks before we get onto that part. Thanks for watching
@@iNVisionPrototypes sounds good. I'll be watching like always.
I am just loving this build. Great work.
Thanks a bunch!
I agree chopping tops on cars past 1932 are not easy because of the curves and radiuses. My dad tells me you have to learn how to do shrinking. Where you heat the metal and cool it.
He's very right! We'll be doing a much more complicated chop on a 1956 Chrysler Windsor soon. Check out that build when you get a chance. Wishing you and yours all the best in 2024!
It's looking good.
Thanks Butzi Porsche!
Lookin good!
Thanks for watching
Really great video! Since I am new to bodymods, I need all the instruction I can get. I will be doing a similar chop to a '54 Desoto. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful Henry!
Wow big job on that roof !
Great project Nick, keep up the good work.
Thanks, will do!
I am so impressed every time. You are a master craftsman and make it look effortless, Joe
Thanks very much Joe! That means a lot!
I used Bondo in 1963. Lead filler work wasn't done much after 1960.
Wow! '63. Might be a regional thing. 👍
You are a step up from the guy I usually watch doing these jobs uses beer cartons for his templates.
LOL! 😁 Thanks for watching!!
You do some good work man 👀you just got you a new subscriber 👍
Hi John, Thanks for the SUB!!
No problem 🍀👍
Love the new look!! Thanks for sharing this project!! Can't wait for the next episode!! Cheers!!
Thanks so much! 👍👍
Stupid Amazing, just Stupid Amazing best chop I've seen.
Thanks Joe! 👍👍
Work of art 🎨 , Dig it. 😎
Thanks!
I started in the body shop in '69, we had bondo then.
Cool!
@@iNVisionPrototypes you said bondo wasn't available then.
Good looking chop 👍
Thanks man!!
To take that dent out of the hood, think about cross cut across the hood and move the front edge and center point back so it doesn't stick out so far
I'll take a look at that. Structure needs to come out anyway for repairs.
I like it. Not to drastic. Myself, I prefer to retain the B pillar. It all boils down to preferences. It will be interesting to see how you do the hardtop effect. Will you be able to eliminate the door / quarter panel rattle inherent in most 2 door hardtop cars of the 50s and 60s?
The b-pillar has been reinforced below the window line so it should be all good. Thanks for the thumbs up!!
Very nice 1/4 glass alignment
Thank you!
Hi there, very cool video . Is there any chance you could explain what you ment with the overlap on the panels with a but joint? I didn’t quite understand. Many thanks it’s looking choice,
Jonny.
NZ.
When a joint is overlapped one layer of metal is placed over another. Great for strength such as for a floor pan joint(seam sealed after to prevent moisture intrusion). However, not good if one wants to hammer and dollie to finish. When one butts two sheets together and welds them together the weld can be stretched using a hammer against a dollie. Great for joining body panels. My template was a little long and if I had traced it onto the metal the metal section would have been too large thereby overlapping the surrounding metal. In the following video you can see how overlap joints are used to create strength ua-cam.com/video/rPkVFCuhwpY/v-deo.html And if you click here you can see how metal panels are finished when they are butt welded. ua-cam.com/video/G6vUc_iuCpw/v-deo.html Hope this helps. Thanks for the thumbs up Jonny!
U may want th look at those trunk hinges before dealing with the package tray under back glass
👍
Very nice job again!
I appreciate that Paul!
Have you tried silicon bronze mig wire, it's awesome and i think would help with this kind of work too
I'll look into it. Thanks Scott
Very nice, chopped look is cool, but I have never liked the narrow windshields. Keeping the original windshield height makes the whole look and factory created.
Thanks!
Cool. I live in Burlington.
Do you ever allow anyone one to visit your shop?
Great job
Thanks Ed!!
Nice work Nick Looks great !👍
I’ve done a few Chops myself including a 1950 ford Convertible !
I’ve only slanted rear windows and chopped the front .
At least you can use standard front glass which is a lot easier !
From Down Under 🦘
Cheers
Andy 😎
Very cool! I bet the convertible mechanism was fun to adjust! Hats off to you Sir! 👍
Can you use the original front windshield?
@@allancox1457 Yes, will need to adjust the lower flange for things to sit right though. Thanks for watching Allan.
Well, you have to make all new side windows and windshield
As with most any chop the windows have to be either cut down or made. In this case I didn't need to touch the rear window at all and the rest of the glass was missing/broken so I cut some fresh windows for the side and front. Got a new project in the works, a 56 Chrysler Windsor, that we'll be chopping... thats gonna be fun as the front and rear are wrap around! Thanks for watching Glenn!
Lots of work to result in rear glass fixed in place. I wouldn’t like that .
It takes A LOT more work to have it open/close and seal well as I will show you on the 56 Windsor we're currently building. Be a few weeks till we get to that though... as we just about finished Stage 1. Check it out ua-cam.com/video/4oeE4Yp0se8/v-deo.html Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts. I appreciate that.
Did you do a video on how to remove the b-pillar and the c-pillar I must have missed that one
Hi Charlie, should be in Episode 5 Part 1 - the video with the slotbox thumbnail.
Another awesome video 👊👊👍👍
Thanks again!
You could write a toolpath on your plas table to clean a sheet, that'd be cool
👍
bravo cool pierrot de paris
Merci!
This will look very nice when you are done
Thanks!!
Very nice job!
What state are you in?
Cheers
I'm in Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada. Thanks for watching!!
Incredibly interesting 🤨 🇬🇧🧐🥇
👍
Look at electric car. Fantastic build. Also look at Runge cars .
Thank you Ernie
Couldnt you have put multiple slits in the corners of the top of the door to get the position you wanted?
Great question James. One could do that, just a little more to weld. As for the small crook in the B pillar, good eye. That is only acting as a support for now. It will be removed and reconstructed internally. Thanks for watching.
@@iNVisionPrototypes I just fell onto your channel, really enjoyed watching it, you do good work, shame your videos have a lot missing of the work, I know its hard to do the downloads, edits and all, just saying.
@@jamesmatheson5115 Thanks for the feedback. What kind of "missing work" would you like to see more of? Thanks for watching.
@@iNVisionPrototypes Just to see you doing the welding as on the rear pillar, you had a cardboard cutout then next frame it was all welded up, I guess you want to show a decent length video without lots of boring welding, well for me, Ive seen people weld in lots of different ways, from gas welding to MIG, TIG and stick, but even then they dont all MIG the same, so I personally would have liked to see how you went about it, anyway, Im going to follow you some, because of the quality of work you do.
@@jamesmatheson5115 I'll see what I can do about working welding into a future video. From past experience on previous vids I can see viewer engagement drops during the welding process. My Dad usually gas welds panels, I'll TIG or MIG depending. Thanks for the support! 👍
Lookin good.
Where is your cut line going to be on the front of the door? Where it is now, or lower?
Agree with comment below; I like the stock taillights and quarter panel shape.
Cut line on the front of the door? Not sure which one you mean. Thanks!
@@iNVisionPrototypes >>cut line
@@frankschwartz7405 Ahh, I got it. 👍Actually, the top door perimeter was welded back onto the door(check it out again) and will open with the door as the original did. Only difference will be that the B pillar on both the door and 1/4 window won't be seen from the exterior.
@@iNVisionPrototypes Now I get it.
I guess I should wait until the next video.
Thanks. And keep up the great metalcrafting.
Any plans to pancake the hood a little bit?
The hood is a little long in the tooth at the front. I'll be going over more of 'the plan' in the next episode. Thanks for watching!
Awesome! Really enjoying this project.
Put the head light frames on u may want to French those lights in
I'm leaning towards Frenching them too! Thanks for the suggestion Mitch
U commented about extending the fender, unless u had the lights from the other body, sence those light buckets on bolt and move to the back of fenders holes could be drilled for light alignment instead of trying to adjust from the back side
@@mitchbarber3468 I've got a little trick to make adjusting frenched headlights lights easier than the repeated removal method. Will share in a future video.
@@iNVisionPrototypes I know u can turn the adjuster screws and adjust from rear
@@mitchbarber3468 Shhhh... lets keep this between us for now 😋 lol!
Hey, let's make the rear window smaller!?
We'll see
I always thought these cars were too bulbous.
1951 Mercury tail lights?
Initially I was thinking about those, but then I needed to figure out how to incorporate the Infiniti door handles and make them work. In the next episode I'll go into a little more detail on 'the plan'. Thanks for watching!
I typed in Hot Rod ASMR and it took me here.
LOL! Thanks for the support 👍👍
Where do you get someone who know more than just how hand you a screwdriver.
Thanks for watching!
😮👍
Think you should keep the B pillars and not do the faux hardtop look.
Thanks for your thoughts Kenneth. I appreciate it.
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
👍🏻🍺
Thanks!
Sacrilege, like tattoos and implants on a woman your destroying the natural look. Start from scratch i say, that takes talent and men's ingenuity to create from bare metal.
Hi Danethanor, If you haven't seen, we also know a thing or two about 4'x8' flat sheet bare metal fabrication. Take a moment to check out our other builds... from the custom 1940 Ford Hardtop Coupe to the blue 500HP mid engine sports car. Both of those were built entirely from the ground up. The '51 didn't have much left so it was a perfect candidate for a body swap and to have some fun with the proportions. Thanks for watching! 👍
I remember when you wheeled that huge long panel in ONE piece on the 40 front end.
Just about flipped.
Some of us have some experience..
I’d love to see some photos of the stuff the keyboard warriors make sometimes.
Few cars lend themselves so well to a chop.
Kudos Nick, et al, from Montreal