*Seems like a pretty good reel **enjoyable.fishing** recommend and the rod is even better then I expected, pretty stiff for a medium but really nice quality.*
I have no input here as I am just learning. But I greatly appreciate the flow of your videos, your conversational tone, and your teaching style. Well done
@@BrianLatimerFishing Just found this video and 100% agree with Mr. MerchantMonk. Your videos are always common-sense, funny, and practical. Love your channel! Thank you! BTW, my go-to setup for crankbaits is 17# mono on a 7' medium graphite rod. I like the "boing" in mono.
Thank you for this level headed take. Theres a lot of video of fish eating crankbaits underwater and I've never seen a fish that, if it wanted to eat a crankbait, physically couldn't do it because braid and a graphite rod "pulled" the bait out of its mouth. I just genuinely think that's a myth. There are plenty of reasons that softer rods help when cranking (e.g. fighting fish that make big runs at the boat, or not unloading on head shakes or jumps) but I think we seriously need to revisit this idea that fish can't eat a crank because it was pulled away from them
I have 2 workhorse crankin rods. Ones a MH Graphite composite that I primarily use for mid depth and deep crankin. My second crankin rod is a MH graphite moderate fast action that I typically use for shallower cranks and bladed jigs. Both the same length and I stick to light braid for most of it on both. I do use a flouro leader in clear water but I rarely fish clear water. Most of my local lakes are stained and have less than 5 feet of vis. So straight braid does me well and I lose less lures in structure.
Brian...I've been building custom rods for a long time (since 1975) and I have to agree with you on several point. First...graphite is more sensitive and this helps with fish and for structure identification. Second...a graphite rod is more accurate casting and its been my experience that it also helps cast further. Volumes have been written as to why...it all comes down to the material (graphite). I believe the whole "glass" crankbait rod myth can about in the early developmental years of graphite...the blank manufacture's did not have the tech to build a good medium rod...so people just used glass to fill the void. A lot has changed since then and almost all the rod mgf's have graphite rods that mirror there glass counterparts. p.s. also love the spot on comments on mono.
@@bullseye0900 You need a really soft medium power, moderate action rod for tiny cranks like that. Mostly so you can actually cast it far enough as they hardly weigh anything. And casting accuracy significantly suffers if your rod is too stiff for the lightweight bait.
Your ability to be humble and describe things in layman's terms is amazing. I am learning to fish different baits and buying equipment to match; much appreciation for your teaching skills.
I am new to bass fishing. I had no idea that there was so many different rods for different applications. I try to keep it simple at this point. But I love all the great info! All part of the learning process.
One of the biggest benefits that I notice when cranking or chatter bait fishing with a glass rod is if the fish eats the bait and continues towards the boat, the parabolic bend allows you to continue to pull back until the fish breaks away and sets the hook on himself. What I will say though, is that if I’m throwing a lipless, I would rather throw a medium heavy moderate graphite 7’4” rod where the backbone starts midway up the rod. Another thing that makes a huge difference when using a glass rod, I only crank with braid! You will lose way less fish I guarantee!! Good to see you again Brian!
I have an extreme crankbait addiction. I've haven't caught anything on one yet but for some reason I just love them so thank you for all the helpful advice. Most of the time I don't consider buying products based on UA-camrs but I want get out there and mimick your setup exactly 😂😂😂 thank you, sir.
Start using a small shallow crankbait or something which you can throw along the shore. Try a shad rap, mr6 or squarebill. Go with a bait that dives 6-8 feet or less.
@@austinhardy1234 size and shape of forage. I Mainly walleye fish now so I mimic shiners in the spring. No bigger than 3 inches. 5 inches or bigger in the fall. Once the end of summer fall transition swings in the walleye in the rivers here start to key in on shad
Brian I learned from your detailed analysis followed by your reasoning and suggestions on the type of rod and line. This will help me. Your methodology is a military OODA loop. Observe, Orient, Decide, Act. The pattern (loop) is repeated until you hitting the target. Thank you again Rori
Your honesty is refreshing, cuz a lot of the pros just push there sponsors, I personally don’t use mono that much besides for backing and am glad to hear you use it for certain applications. As far as what your saying with the rods I completely agree, I bought a couple expensive glass rods this past year and then found myself using my graphite rods with fluorocarbon to crank a lot more, the only reason I have stuck with fluorocarbon over mono is because I’ve had several break offs, maybe because my knot tying ability idk, but when I rocks ive found fluorocarbon for me has held up better! Anyway cool video! Keep it up!
You took the words out of my mouth in regards to cold water and a glass/composite rod. In the warmer months with a pure reaction bite and when the fish are very active the composite rod has helped me quite a bit, but definitely lose more fish on it when it's cold. So I've got both, definitely a time for both rods. With the shorter 6'6" composite rod I can manage to get pretty good close quarters accuracy with a lot of practice, but it is challenging
I’m a rookie in the bass fishing world and I use mono on every rod I have and I love it. I see a lot of videos and people discrediting mono and praising Fluro and braid. I have 7 foot medium rod with 12lb test mono and it does good for me with deep diving cranks and shallow ones, never lets me down.
I use the same 7' Shimano Crucial rod for crankbaits, jerkbaits, and topwater. This one is a solid graphite rod but I've also used the 6'8" Shimano Crucial glass/graphite composite. I liked both but prefer the full graphite rod. It's easier to feel grass and rip the hooks cleanly with a graphite rod. I'm originally from New Hampshire and most of our lakes are super clear (20 foot or more visibility). For crankbaits I use the Reaction FC from Sunline which is a fluorocarbon with some stretch built in. When I fish jerkbaits and topwaters I use 20# Power Pro Super Slick braid then attach either a fluorocarbon or mono leader with the FG knot. I have a ton of experience fishing jerkbaits like this and catching 4lb plus smallmouth and I don't think that braided main line affects them even in the clearest of water. Most of my tournament wins involve smallmouth caught on jerkbaits and blade baits. Now that I live in Texas with lakes that have a lot of standing timber I may have to rethink this a little and use mono for square bills instead of fluorocarbon. Most cranking in deep clear lakes happens in the 9' wiggle wart range over granite rock but here I can see square bills in 2' of water being a potential pattern. Perhaps the mono will keep me from hooking the timber as often and also keep the bait up a little higher in the water column. Brian, I do have one question... when you rip square bills out of grass do you notice a different between mono or fluoro on the graphite rod? Thanks for the video, man.
You know I’ve never really thought about it but when I looked at my rods I realized I’ve been doing exactly what you’re talking about. During the winter time I tend to use an Ark Invoker series 7’2” which is a Medium power with a moderate action graphite rod. During the spring, summer, and even fall I use an Ark Tharp Series 7’ Grinder which is a Medium Heavy power Moderate Fast Action composite rod. I think my main reason for using the invoker during the winter time was more for it being better suited to throw finesse crankbaits, but I like what you’re saying it truly does make sense.
Andrew Thomas how do you like the Invokers overall? I’ve got a Tharp series crankin’ rod and I love it. I thought about buying more Tharp series for other applications but would like to check out the invoker as well.
I like following you and your content because of reasons like this exactly! You seem like an honest guy and on top of that you aren’t just a follower that drinks the “kool aid” and preaches what everyone else says! Keep it up! I’m not a huge crankbait fisherman by any means, but personally there are definitely pros and cons to both graphite and glass rods for cranking exactly as you said. Once a bite is detected and the hooks are buried a parabolic rod or especially a glass rod will help keep fish pinned. However loss of feel, accuracy, and hook set power with glass has me using graphite for cranking currently. It is important with graphite in my opinion to avoid rods with too stiff of a tip and to not be too jumpy on the set and to reel through the hookset.
The value that glass crank rods provide me is a sharp visual cue, watching the tip. A fish sneaking up from behind will instantly stop the rod tip bobble. It's easier than the constant focus that a bottom bait requires. As a lazier 60 year old ; )
you nailed it....for me its graphite and adjust softness with line stretch......less stretch in winter cause their skin is tougher and they don't fight as hard....good idea for this type of video!!
I lost 3 5 lbers in 15 min 2 years ago on my glass rods. Medium light, medium and medium heavy. 55 to 65 degree water. They all hit the bait like a freight train and came straight to the surface and spit it back at me. I really think a medium graphite rod would have been better with that application. Open water with some grass. I like glass rods for rip rap banks where the give in the rod let's the bait bounce over the rocks different. Great video. Enjoyed it.
Right on the money Blat. Especially with the mono. I went away from mono cuz everyone else did, and I landed less fish. Went back with some of my rods and had success again. I still use flouro on a lot of my applications, but you're right on not getting pigeon holed. Saw you at Lake Lewsiville in TX a couple weeks ago when my Buddy Brandon Dillard led after first day. I wanted to say hi but had to go. See you in the Spring! Back in Texas! Go get em!
Great insight here man. I think a lot of people get lost in what the industry pushes anglers to believe. At the end of the day, fish with what works for you. My big cranking setup is a 7'6" shimano zodias glass rod with a tranx 301 spooled with 30 lb braid to 14 lb fluro leader. My square bill/lipless combo is an older 7' g loomis glass rod with a chronarch mgl with same braid and leader as other rod. I found that with the glass rods and fluro, it loses too much feel with what is happening with the bait. So I switched to braid and I can feel everything while the bait is working. And the forgiveness in the glass rod still plays its part when the fish strikes and during the fight. I also don't crank my drag super tight, if they need to run, I let them. I'll also add that I don't tournament fish at all, so if I drop one or two, at least I'm still happy to get the bite. Tight lines.
I think having both is the ticket. I use the Megabass Destroyer P5 Madbull MH/R 7'0 "graphite" for DT-10 or equivalent and 16lb. Monofilament. For DT-6 or equivalent or less I'm using a ST. Croix Legend Glass M/M 7'2 spinning rod with 10lb. Flourocarbon. Flexibility is key know matter what type of bait your throwing. Great video, I think it perfectly demonstrates Flexibility! Thank you.
I think you're right on you're discovering and , I do the same think know and I easily put more fish into the boat every time thank you for you're input it's very useful.
Finally heard a pro saying what I've been trying to tell folks.... Mono with a Medium Graphite... Flouro with a Glass rod. It just makes more sense. I especially run mono/graphite (14#) with a square bill. Thanks for posting this.
Great video. Me personally, I use a 7’ Medium-Fast graphite rod with 12lb mono. I’m not a fan of composite rods. I feel like graphite rods are more sensitive. Also cranking with mono vs fluro kinda offsets the somewhat stiffer power of the graphite rod. Just my thoughts.
I use a composite rod for 7.3 length deep baits dd22 so on. I use graphite in med to med lite soft tip for the smaller baits. I always use mono. I stay around 7ft for this application. It has worked for me
Great video. For my deep divers, I typically use a composite rod. For catching river smallies, I use a shorter glass rod. That way I can still have some casting accuracy and the softness when a smallmouth blasts my squarebill. I did try the composite for the same presentation and I lost several fish. So there is a difference when I am trying to move the bait quicker as opposed to getting down deep. I think the key is just having the greater flex in the rod when fishing with higher speeds (moderate fast to moderate).
Was debating returning my glass rod till I saw this was wondering if I’d be able to catch smallies around a railroad bridge off a boat or have an issue loosing lures on a glass rod
@@Hshshdfb You should be fine. I actually started with fishing river smallies with a composite rod. When I was fishing MD's there was no problem with my hook ups. Squarebills on the other hand, it was 50-50. I changed line and put on different hooks. It was still 50-50. I then bought a Wright and McGill glass squarebill rod and never looked back. The bass seem to hit the squarebill WAY harder and the extra shock absorption and slowness really helps. The landing percentage is now at about 95%. I wade as well and have caught big walleye and big smallies on this rod. I still use the composite for MD and deep divers with no issue.
Hi Brian, I have used both rods for cranking. I'm not that inprest with the glass .I've lost a lot on a glass rod.I can feel the bites better on a graphite and landed much more bass on em.I feel they can be to soft at times.I'm sticking with my graphite rods for cranking.thank you Brian.
I think mono on fast tip crank rods and Fluoro on glass for treble hooks is great advice. I use mono on everything, but went to fluoro for my moderate action with great results.
I always cranked with a graphite rod up until this past summer. I feel that your logic is probably spot on. But I am leaning more towards glass rods and have been building a few now. I really like the Rod Geeks and the Judge rods. The judge rods are like 50% glass and 50% graphite and the but is stiff. So you kind of get the best of both worlds. Soft first half but if you jack em you can load into the stiffer portion and get those hooks in. The reason I have started to lean away from graphite for cranking at least in the warmer months is that the fish are more likely to go nuts at the boat and I loose a lot at the boat. Lost a tourney on Clear Lake because I was tossing square bills on a graphite rod. Had more 5+lbers than I can count come off at the boat.
His videos are always awesome, he always seems to do things just a little different, outside of the norm, I'm the same way and appreciate the hell out of it
When I was a boy, fiberglass rods were what we used because that was all you could buy in the stores. As a teenager and when I really started fishing, fiberglass/graphite and even boron composites were the most predominant rods found on most store racks. They were cheap and as sensitive as a wet noodle. Pure graphite rods were very stiff and expensive. Today's graphite is a completely different animal. I will stick with it, as I can now get any kind of rod I want with modern graphite while being both sensitive and durable. When I fish with spinning or casting gear, I almost always fish with treble hooks, and for bass, pike and walleye, almost always throw crankbaits. I use exclusively graphite rods. My racks have everything from ultralight to heavy powers and moderate to extra-fast actions. I have come to prefer a more moderate action for crankbaits and faster actions for ultralight trout lures. And I prefer very stiff actions for top water fishing. As for line, I like braid only for the no stretch ability on top water and on some more ignorant spinning reels that have line twist issues. I use mono on everything else.
What up Brian. I like that sick stick throwback hat. Well I just purchased the new Ugly Stik carbon Graphite Rods a 7'3 7'0 footer and a 6-8 I'm hoping that they perform as well as they look I haven't got the opportunity to fish with them yet but I had to go back over a couple of videos that you did fo make sure that I put the right line right real and the right lures on each one of them so thank you B you make things a lot more easier. I think I'll be using graphite cut that glass it cost a pretty penny pretty pretty pretty penny.
I can barely remember using glass rods from back in the day. Recently my Son and I where cranking over a shallow dying grass bed with quality graphite med fast action rods and we mopped up on some nice Bass. These rods had enough back bone to pull free from grass when needed, where I think a glass rod would have lacked the back bone to pull through. The graphite rods allowed the fish to load up whether they gave a quick abush strike or a slow follow strike. The graphite med. rods gave us the ability to set the hook and reel in aggressively without pulling out of the fish. We only lost one fish that day and it was because of how it was played. Also were able to land a 22" Redfish. Which was about all that rod could handle. FUN
Just bought a St. Croix Legend Glass rod a few weeks ago. I've fished with it liberally since then. I've only ever lost one fish. I've got to say that over-all it's my favorite rod I've ever owned. Beautiful look, great balance, and unparalleled comfort. EDIT: I fish almost exclusively rattle-baits on the rod and it's a heavy action. It has the backbone to drive hooks home. I also change out all my hooks to wide-gap, light wire Gams.
I like the idea of changing out the hooks first and foremost because it makes a huge difference especially with the Gamakatsu wide gap wire hooks and that St Croix rod is phenomenal
I mainly fish clear weedy lakes and I mostly use a medium action graphite rod when I'm using lures with treble hooks. I'll use med/heavy for larger lures. If the bass start getting unhooked I'll switch to an e glass cranking rod. If I'm fishing a lure with #6 treble hooks I'll use a cranking rod especially in the warmer months.
Well as for rods, I use both, composite and graphite but then they both have moderate taper and are parabolic. Found rods that fit my style as well as I crank with braid with a leader.
Just my experience: I used to crank with a graphite rod. I only landed 60-70% of the fish. About a year ago I switched to the St. Croix Legend Glass. Now the landing ratio is, without a doubt, above 90%. Just today I hooked 20+ bass cranking. They weren't inhaling it and only a few of those were getting the front hooks (a couple were also foul hooked). The glass rod landed all but 2 and that's a rarity for me that I lost those 2. I also have a friend that swears by his graphite and claims he loses fish on glass. I think a lot depends on your hook set mechanics, hooks, line type, how much you horse them verses how much you play them and so on. In short, there's so many variables there's simply no "best", there's only what works best for you. Just my amateure .02 worth.
It took me a bit to get use to but once I did I love a 7'4 med heavy glass rod for chatterbait types & squarebill cranks. I like graphite for deep crankbaits. I feel the fish & bottom/structure better
Graphite med fast with mono- when they are slow, graphite med light with fluro when they are aggressive. I am more accurate with graphite and a faster tip. I feel like I have the same sensitivity but the hook sets are different. When they are aggressive i really don't have to set it and need something to absorb the impact, when they are slow i don't want the stretch of mono and need the fluro to aid with the hook set. Awsome video.
5ross1 1 second ago Graphite/mono is all I have ever cranked with. On some lakes I use 10 lb. and on other lakes I use 14 lb. depending on cover. I was thinking of getting a graphite composite rod but after listening to you I will not spend the extra money. I can use it for some of the newer crankbaits. My crankbaits are all over 20 years old. LOL
I have to mostly agree. I do want to add though that even though I agree about graphite allowing more accuracy, If I really need to blast that crank way out there I always grab the ole Ugly Stick! In my experience it's hard to beat glass for launching crank baits a mile.
You are a pro bass fisherman, I think I remember u on the bass masters? Ur channel is cool, like ur in-depth conversations about rods and reals, catching fish etc. good stuff.
I use a graphite rod with Yozuri Hybrid co-poly currently, but I do have a 7' medium Kistler Argon composite rod that I am going to try this year for lighter crankbaits (bandits and speed traps)
I’ve been having awesome luck with a 7’ -3” Carrot stick MH parabolic bend. The rod is graphite with the nano technology. The long bend in the rod keeps them hooked up. I throw a lot of DT 10’s on 10lb. Fluorocarbon. They just don’t come off. The 7-3” MH Micro Pro Duckett Rod has about the same action. That rod is rated for big spinnerbaits, football jigs, Carolina rigging and large top water lures.
I still use monofilament almost 100% of the time. I no longer fish tournaments, no longer have a boat, so I don't automatically jump at every new item that comes onto the market. Also, I worked in the retail fishing industry for over 15 years, so I've been around long enough to know that most new items are created more for the purpose of catching fishermen, and not necessarily fish!
I like the rhythm and feedback I get from that nice 'wobble' a good, light, mostly glass, rod has for retrieve baits. My David Fritts 7' footer I just purchased at Dick's, has that wobble that I can sense anything with my eyes closed tight, and still have a ton of loading power.
Man you explained what I really feel but didn’t have the words for!!!!! The feedback you get from that glass with a crankbait is so much different and once you get used to that it’s hard to turn down. Since this video dropped about a year ago I don’t use any graphite at all anymore. I just really got into a cadence and feel with that glass that I’ve learned to love
7' M Halo Starlite rod, My primary squarebill rod, good parabolic bend to it, its a micro guide rod and i use 12 to 15# mono, 6:1 reel. I feel like its properly balanced and it gets the job done for me. Its also a good 3/8 chatterbait rod especially when i rig it with braid.
I only use a graphite rod for fishing no matter what. I prefer graphite rod when throwing crankbaits because of the sensitivity that I get. Most of the time, I hook the fish on the back treble but doing this has taught me to catch fish by working them back towards me and wearing them out. There are those times though, when the big fish absolutely chokes the crankbaits on the graphite rod (and this is exciting)! These are the times when my graphite rod loads up like a glass rod, and it honestly feels like I hooked deadweight seaweed or milfoil or something. It’s weird that I’m defying the odds, but I’ve became a better fisherman by this. It teaches me patience and control, and I have learned to work with the odds that I have. And surprisingly, whether you agree or not, all my rods are spinning rods - (Fenwick Walleye Elite Tech and St. Croix Triumph). I know how to use casting but it just doesn’t suit my style of fishing. I know I sound crazy, but it’s works. The spinning graphite rod is the way to go.
That's all fine and dandy. But that 1 rod cannot do it all, or it most certainly can't do it as well as a niche rod. I recommend having a sensitive rod for finesse fishing, a skip casting rod, a crank, a heavy. That at the very least covers most, if not all, the basics.
I always fish a graphite rod for a chatterbait because I like it to be a little sturdier. I have had good success with my crank bait on graphite as well but I don’t throw it as much in the summer.
I had a medium fast action Browning Rod that I got from Bass Pro and that thing was STOUT, one time I caught a 15lb Blue on it with 14lb Red Cajun on Abu Garcia Blackmax reel. Man I miss that thing is was a sexy combo with that Black and Red reel with the red line and straight black rod, I'm a stickler with combos I hate it when the colors don't match up.
For a long time I didn't have a glass rod. So I fished crank baits with mono. I felt that gave me close to the same effect. I had to adjust a bit to the bait not diving as deep as with fluorocarbon. I'm not a pro. I can't spin a golf ball either so I don't need Tiger Woods ball. I can't ski like Franz Klammer, so I don't need the ski he skis. Are you getting my point?
No. I'll guess: because you aren't a pro, you don't need a glass composite so you can still fish fluoro. You aren't a pro, so fishing graphite with mono will be good enough. Did I get it? Let me know. Thanks.
I just started using Millerods. The Crankfreak for my med-deep divers and the Squarefreak for my Squareheads. I love them both. They are a Graphite custom blended rod but I just like the feel of graphite when Im throwing around cover and such. They both have plenty of parabolic bend to deal with surging fish at the boat and load quite well.
I like a graphite rod with copolymer line. Med/fast tip. Works well when the waters cold has enough backbone to penetrate their mouth. But also keeps them pinned during warmer months and I don't have to keep changing my crankbait setup
I've found a glass is without the best rod, however I do something most people don't, I stick the fish pretty good, I believe you need to really get good puncture into the fish, then I play them out, I don't just "lay into them" I found I don't get enough penetration if I just lay into them and they shake it a lot, I hardly lose fish and I'm young so I don't have a lot of funds so I fish factory hooks, or cheap replacements like eagle claw laser sharp
All I use is graphite and like you said I use mono but as a leader, reason being I only have 4 bait casters because I’m just getting into the sport I have them all loaded with braid to keep from losing a lot of my expensive lures, and I started looking at favorite rods per your advice and as you said they don’t currently have a glass rod for cranking... but I love the feel of the leader and the way it allows me to switch on the fly the way I’m fishing with limited equipment!!! Great Video once again and I saw your end cap display at Dicks I told my sons that’s my homie on the FLW tour I talk to no and then lol! They were like yeah right dad! Lol
Digging your channel ! Shallow stuff and lipless I have been using a graphite jerkbait rod , still switch between mono and flouro ( cant make up my mind ) . I like being able to pop my bait out of the grass and not have that mushy feeling of a glass rod. I run my reel drag as light as I can get away with considering the cover im fishing. Deep divers I still run long glass rods and just deal with the mush because I feel I get longer cast with them .
I want to start off by saying congratulations on the W! Now on the rod subject, I to use both. On my deep diving crankbaits I use a KVD glass rod. Going deep they have a lot of time to spit the hooks out and that give helps me put them in the boat.Shallow cranking I use graphite.
A lot of it is what you have confidence in, I used to use bps cranking rods then switched over to the older generation G-Loomis cranking rods and use them for cranking, buzzbaits and bladedjigs on the medium heavy.
I’ve always used a medium power graphite rod with mono for cranking, but I recently purchased a glass rod I’m really excited about trying out. Good video!
me personally i fish guntersville primarily and if you can’t feel every time that bait runs it’s gonna be a tough day. if you can’t feel the grass you won’t catch bass. i use the hammer 7’0 medium heavy to clear the grass and it has an awesome tip.
Really like this style of video. Like the pros thoughts on different setups and styles we've used forever and whether they still make since to use. Thanks Brian!
It really doesn't matter to me Brian, but I like your thoughts on the subject. I still use Browning rods that are brown glass for all but the heaver crank baits and I switch to a medium graphite and mono 15#, The Browning rods are gone from the outlets, so I'll have to find a cranking rod I like. I am very thankful I can still go, even if I have to use graphite or composite or what ever. LOL Thank You for taking your valuable time to help us out. Have a blessed day.
I agree with you, I can feel everything with a graphite rod, I've used a 7ft medium Abu Garcia rod for a few years. But, I bought a falcon hd 7ft medium, but it's a moderate action, 1/4 to 1/2 ounce rating, it's a 100% graphite rod, but acts like a glass rod in my opinion, I use 10lb copolymer on both, I've experienced the same things since using the falcon. Good video man, keep it up
I’m a graphite guy. I like feeling what I’m hitting more. If I want more rod sensitivity I’ll just go with a lighter rod. BUT this is coming from a Crappie/Walleye main. I do bass fish a lot I just wouldn’t call myself an expert.
Well to be honest I have googan green go to rod & since these last two yrs it has been catching bass & pike without any issue. I myself havent used a glass rod yet however I am very eager to try a glass rod but I honest don't know where to start in buying a glass rod at my affordable price point ($200) & at 7ft. With so many rods on the market please tell bruh where I should start. I am torn between trying out combat rod & dobyns rod. Thank for you honest input on which I should get between those two brands.
Just started watching your video on crankbait rods great great video I use nothing but graphite rods I have had a glass rod and I bought it specifically for crankbait fishing I believe you're correct a graphite rod with monofilament is better then a glass rod with fluorocarbon I caught more fish on graphite with mono anything else using a crankbait thank you Brian keep up the great videos
Kinda new and trying to be more versatile. Gonna be cranking alot this year and this helps. Got a cherrywood hd medium and a kastking whitemax. Was gonna put floro but think ima do mono to start. I fish off a kayak so im not that deep
I use graphite for all cranking. I've used glass and graphite for both shallow and deep with various lengths and actions. Graphite just seems to be more sensitive and loads better for my style.
just stumbling onto this video, honestly here australia fishing the estuaries i prefer a stiffer rod. i was using the daiwa infeet ultralight but i moved back toward the older shimano
I'll say this first, I haven't used a glass rod for cranking yet. I used a medhvy/modfast graphite rod with 10lb mono for all of my cranking needs this past year. Decided to get one rod to try most depths of cranking and this is where I ended up at. I've only lost fish when I was horsing them in (and they were small anyways) or when they were slapping my trap this spring, could've just needed to change hooks to a round bend. I think you have to judge your ability to play with drag or thumb the spool and play fish in order to determine whether you want glass or graphite because I see a lot talk about strikes right at the boat and loosing fish. Another thing to consider is length of rod. The rod I chose is 7'6" for the fact that I can launch the deeper divers like a 5 and 6xd, but up shallow there is more rod to bend if I get a fish that strikes close to the boat. As a side note: I think someone missed the first guide on their rod. How do you like that mustang taku bib? Have you tried the jacket also?
I grew up using a glass rod because that was all there was, after I got graphite rods I found out a medium power moderate action works good I feel the bites the moderate action allows me to set the hook without ripping the hooks out of the fish I like graphite .
That was a great video. You basically proved what I have been telling all my buddy’s about mono and cranking. I use mono a lot for cranking and spinner baits. Keep up the great work.
Glass used to be my favorite for cranking but as I've aged and the wear on my wrists has kicked in from years of work I've gone to composite for weight savings. I have found that what we as anglers need to figure in is if you are using braid to leaders as I do you can go to copolymere like polyflex from Gamma and that will add the stretch to keep the trebles engaged. I have even added a leader of copoly to flourocarbon for stretch with treble. Personally feel that switching from glass will add other options for that same rod also as far as other baits being used I.E., spinnerbaits, chatters etc.
I went out the other day after watching your video and I couldn’t stop thinking about it. I do not have a glass rod but I do have a moderate action and a medium rod. I lost 3 nice bass on the moderate rod and hooked all bass with the medium fast. I would say that after awhile I had to kinda set the hook a lot harder on the moderate rod to keep them hooked. Thank you for the video.
I used to be one of those guys that thought rods really don't matter for different baits. I had 4 or 5 MH rods with a fast or extra fast tip that used for absolutely everything. Then one day I was throwing a 6XD in 5 ft of water and hooked 5 or 6 big bass like all over 4 lbs and they all got off because I only had them hooked with the back set of hooks. The problem was with those fast tipped rods I felt the strike immediately and drew down on them and they all got off because of it. I was so mad that I left and went straight to the store and bought 2 crankbait rods and went back the next morning. On the second cast I felt my bait just stop so I drew back and got the fish in with no problems at all. I hooked it with both sets of hooks and it was a nice 4.5 pounder. After that I caught fish all day and didn't have the first one get off and I really think it was because I had the right setup. The moderate tip along with a good parabolic bend made all the difference in the world for me. They were both graphite rods in a medium heavy. Having that give to my rods made all the difference in getting the fish in, instead of using the 2×4's I was using before in my other rods. Those other rods are great for fishing anything but a crankbait, something I had to learn for myself the hard way. So my advice is that if a seasoned pro like Brian says you need this rod to fish this kind of bait then I'm sure he knows what he's talking about and not just trying to get you to go buy his signature stuff like some guys do. I'm no pro by no means but I usually catch fish when I go and trust me when I tell you that you need a crankbait rod when you fish a crankbait. It will make a good day even better when you don't have to tell someone about the big one that got off.
I use a glass rod but load with 15lb braid.....then may or may not (depending on the cover and water clarity) tie either a mono or floro leader. Works very good for me and I don't seem to lose many fish.
Dobyns champion 705cb Glass fast action with a Metanium dc for squarebills, 3xd style medium divers, and open water lipless cranks. Best cranking setup I’ve ever owned/used
I’ve used glass rods I don’t like because they are “whippy” (Shimano and loomis rods especially) but I really don’t like graphite rods for shallow cranking because they get me snagged more. Dobyns 705cb Glass fast action is the happy medium for me... For deep cranking 6xd+ baits, I like graphite because I feel I need the sensitivity in some situations
*Seems like a pretty good reel **enjoyable.fishing** recommend and the rod is even better then I expected, pretty stiff for a medium but really nice quality.*
*Seems like a pretty good reel **enjoyable.fishing** recommend and the rod is even better then I expected, pretty stiff for a medium but really nice quality.*
I have no input here as I am just learning. But I greatly appreciate the flow of your videos, your conversational tone, and your teaching style.
Well done
MerchantMonk بببتع
Wow man I’m just finding this comment but thanks kindly
@@BrianLatimerFishing Just found this video and 100% agree with Mr. MerchantMonk. Your videos are always common-sense, funny, and practical. Love your channel! Thank you! BTW, my go-to setup for crankbaits is 17# mono on a 7' medium graphite rod. I like the "boing" in mono.
As a serious freshwater fisherman since 73. And owning a five-foot stack of Infisherman magazines, starting at issue 3, in 1976. You are awsome bra!
Thank you for this level headed take. Theres a lot of video of fish eating crankbaits underwater and I've never seen a fish that, if it wanted to eat a crankbait, physically couldn't do it because braid and a graphite rod "pulled" the bait out of its mouth. I just genuinely think that's a myth. There are plenty of reasons that softer rods help when cranking (e.g. fighting fish that make big runs at the boat, or not unloading on head shakes or jumps) but I think we seriously need to revisit this idea that fish can't eat a crank because it was pulled away from them
I have 2 workhorse crankin rods. Ones a MH Graphite composite that I primarily use for mid depth and deep crankin. My second crankin rod is a MH graphite moderate fast action that I typically use for shallower cranks and bladed jigs. Both the same length and I stick to light braid for most of it on both. I do use a flouro leader in clear water but I rarely fish clear water. Most of my local lakes are stained and have less than 5 feet of vis. So straight braid does me well and I lose less lures in structure.
Brian...I've been building custom rods for a long time (since 1975) and I have to agree with you on several point.
First...graphite is more sensitive and this helps with fish and for structure identification.
Second...a graphite rod is more accurate casting and its been my experience that it also helps cast further. Volumes have been written as to why...it all comes down to the material (graphite).
I believe the whole "glass" crankbait rod myth can about in the early developmental years of graphite...the blank manufacture's did not have the tech to build a good medium rod...so people just used glass to fill the void. A lot has changed since then and almost all the rod mgf's have graphite rods that mirror there glass counterparts.
p.s. also love the spot on comments on mono.
What action and power do you recommend for 1.5 Kvd squarebill
@@bullseye0900 You need a really soft medium power, moderate action rod for tiny cranks like that. Mostly so you can actually cast it far enough as they hardly weigh anything. And casting accuracy significantly suffers if your rod is too stiff for the lightweight bait.
Your ability to be humble and describe things in layman's terms is amazing. I am learning to fish different baits and buying equipment to match; much appreciation for your teaching skills.
I am new to bass fishing. I had no idea that there was so many different rods for different applications. I try to keep it simple at this point. But I love all the great info! All part of the learning process.
One of the biggest benefits that I notice when cranking or chatter bait fishing with a glass rod is if the fish eats the bait and continues towards the boat, the parabolic bend allows you to continue to pull back until the fish breaks away and sets the hook on himself. What I will say though, is that if I’m throwing a lipless, I would rather throw a medium heavy moderate graphite 7’4” rod where the backbone starts midway up the rod. Another thing that makes a huge difference when using a glass rod, I only crank with braid! You will lose way less fish I guarantee!! Good to see you again Brian!
Wise beyond your years. Great vid Brian
I have an extreme crankbait addiction. I've haven't caught anything on one yet but for some reason I just love them so thank you for all the helpful advice. Most of the time I don't consider buying products based on UA-camrs but I want get out there and mimick your setup exactly 😂😂😂 thank you, sir.
Stop and go speed up slow down you really got to go with the pattern the fish give you.
Start using a small shallow crankbait or something which you can throw along the shore. Try a shad rap, mr6 or squarebill.
Go with a bait that dives 6-8 feet or less.
@@nicke5056 how do you go about learning the patterns of the fish you are after?
@@austinhardy1234 size and shape of forage. I Mainly walleye fish now so I mimic shiners in the spring. No bigger than 3 inches. 5 inches or bigger in the fall.
Once the end of summer fall transition swings in the walleye in the rivers here start to key in on shad
@@austinhardy1234 replicate whatever cadence that you got a bite with
Brian
I learned from your detailed analysis followed by your reasoning and suggestions on the type of rod and line. This will help me.
Your methodology is a military OODA loop. Observe, Orient, Decide, Act. The pattern (loop) is repeated until you hitting the target.
Thank you again
Rori
Your honesty is refreshing, cuz a lot of the pros just push there sponsors, I personally don’t use mono that much besides for backing and am glad to hear you use it for certain applications. As far as what your saying with the rods I completely agree, I bought a couple expensive glass rods this past year and then found myself using my graphite rods with fluorocarbon to crank a lot more, the only reason I have stuck with fluorocarbon over mono is because I’ve had several break offs, maybe because my knot tying ability idk, but when I rocks ive found fluorocarbon for me has held up better! Anyway cool video! Keep it up!
You took the words out of my mouth in regards to cold water and a glass/composite rod. In the warmer months with a pure reaction bite and when the fish are very active the composite rod has helped me quite a bit, but definitely lose more fish on it when it's cold. So I've got both, definitely a time for both rods. With the shorter 6'6" composite rod I can manage to get pretty good close quarters accuracy with a lot of practice, but it is challenging
I’m a rookie in the bass fishing world and I use mono on every rod I have and I love it. I see a lot of videos and people discrediting mono and praising Fluro and braid. I have 7 foot medium rod with 12lb test mono and it does good for me with deep diving cranks and shallow ones, never lets me down.
I use the same 7' Shimano Crucial rod for crankbaits, jerkbaits, and topwater. This one is a solid graphite rod but I've also used the 6'8" Shimano Crucial glass/graphite composite. I liked both but prefer the full graphite rod. It's easier to feel grass and rip the hooks cleanly with a graphite rod.
I'm originally from New Hampshire and most of our lakes are super clear (20 foot or more visibility). For crankbaits I use the Reaction FC from Sunline which is a fluorocarbon with some stretch built in. When I fish jerkbaits and topwaters I use 20# Power Pro Super Slick braid then attach either a fluorocarbon or mono leader with the FG knot. I have a ton of experience fishing jerkbaits like this and catching 4lb plus smallmouth and I don't think that braided main line affects them even in the clearest of water. Most of my tournament wins involve smallmouth caught on jerkbaits and blade baits.
Now that I live in Texas with lakes that have a lot of standing timber I may have to rethink this a little and use mono for square bills instead of fluorocarbon. Most cranking in deep clear lakes happens in the 9' wiggle wart range over granite rock but here I can see square bills in 2' of water being a potential pattern. Perhaps the mono will keep me from hooking the timber as often and also keep the bait up a little higher in the water column.
Brian, I do have one question... when you rip square bills out of grass do you notice a different between mono or fluoro on the graphite rod? Thanks for the video, man.
Never used glass, so no conversation to compare. I was very thought provoking on what you said about using mono. Great insight!
You know I’ve never really thought about it but when I looked at my rods I realized I’ve been doing exactly what you’re talking about. During the winter time I tend to use an Ark Invoker series 7’2” which is a Medium power with a moderate action graphite rod. During the spring, summer, and even fall I use an Ark Tharp Series 7’ Grinder which is a Medium Heavy power Moderate Fast Action composite rod. I think my main reason for using the invoker during the winter time was more for it being better suited to throw finesse crankbaits, but I like what you’re saying it truly does make sense.
Andrew Thomas how do you like the Invokers overall? I’ve got a Tharp series crankin’ rod and I love it. I thought about buying more Tharp series for other applications but would like to check out the invoker as well.
I like following you and your content because of reasons like this exactly! You seem like an honest guy and on top of that you aren’t just a follower that drinks the “kool aid” and preaches what everyone else says! Keep it up! I’m not a huge crankbait fisherman by any means, but personally there are definitely pros and cons to both graphite and glass rods for cranking exactly as you said. Once a bite is detected and the hooks are buried a parabolic rod or especially a glass rod will help keep fish pinned. However loss of feel, accuracy, and hook set power with glass has me using graphite for cranking currently. It is important with graphite in my opinion to avoid rods with too stiff of a tip and to not be too jumpy on the set and to reel through the hookset.
He doesn't seem like he's selling me on something, just shared his love of fishing 👍👍👍🐟🐟🐟
The value that glass crank rods provide me is a sharp visual cue, watching the tip. A fish sneaking up from behind will instantly stop the rod tip bobble. It's easier than the constant focus that a bottom bait requires. As a lazier 60 year old ; )
you nailed it....for me its graphite and adjust softness with line stretch......less stretch in winter cause their skin is tougher and they don't fight as hard....good idea for this type of video!!
I lost 3 5 lbers in 15 min 2 years ago on my glass rods. Medium light, medium and medium heavy. 55 to 65 degree water. They all hit the bait like a freight train and came straight to the surface and spit it back at me. I really think a medium graphite rod would have been better with that application. Open water with some grass. I like glass rods for rip rap banks where the give in the rod let's the bait bounce over the rocks different.
Great video. Enjoyed it.
Right on the money Blat.
Especially with the mono.
I went away from mono cuz everyone else did, and I landed less fish. Went back with some of my rods and had success again. I still use flouro on a lot of my applications, but you're right on not getting pigeon holed.
Saw you at Lake Lewsiville in TX a couple weeks ago when my Buddy Brandon Dillard led after first day. I wanted to say hi but had to go. See you in the Spring! Back in Texas! Go get em!
The best educational angler since Bill Dance!!! You're the man B-Lat!
But clumsy Bill will make you laugh...
Great insight here man. I think a lot of people get lost in what the industry pushes anglers to believe. At the end of the day, fish with what works for you. My big cranking setup is a 7'6" shimano zodias glass rod with a tranx 301 spooled with 30 lb braid to 14 lb fluro leader. My square bill/lipless combo is an older 7' g loomis glass rod with a chronarch mgl with same braid and leader as other rod. I found that with the glass rods and fluro, it loses too much feel with what is happening with the bait. So I switched to braid and I can feel everything while the bait is working. And the forgiveness in the glass rod still plays its part when the fish strikes and during the fight. I also don't crank my drag super tight, if they need to run, I let them. I'll also add that I don't tournament fish at all, so if I drop one or two, at least I'm still happy to get the bite. Tight lines.
I think having both is the ticket. I use the Megabass Destroyer P5 Madbull MH/R 7'0 "graphite" for DT-10 or equivalent and 16lb. Monofilament. For DT-6 or equivalent or less I'm using a ST. Croix Legend Glass M/M 7'2 spinning rod with 10lb. Flourocarbon. Flexibility is key know matter what type of bait your throwing. Great video, I think it perfectly demonstrates Flexibility! Thank you.
Shallow to mid depth I use a graphite rod with mono. For deep cranking I use a composite rod with floro
I think you're right on you're discovering and , I do the same think know and I easily put more fish into the boat every time thank you for you're input it's very useful.
Finally heard a pro saying what I've been trying to tell folks.... Mono with a Medium Graphite... Flouro with a Glass rod. It just makes more sense. I especially run mono/graphite (14#) with a square bill. Thanks for posting this.
I agree with you I think graphite is better to use in the colder weather and glass is better in the warmer weather.
Great video. Me personally, I use a 7’ Medium-Fast graphite rod with 12lb mono. I’m not a fan of composite rods. I feel like graphite rods are more sensitive. Also cranking with mono vs fluro kinda offsets the somewhat stiffer power of the graphite rod. Just my thoughts.
I use a composite rod for 7.3 length deep baits dd22 so on. I use graphite in med to med lite soft tip for the smaller baits. I always use mono. I stay around 7ft for this application. It has worked for me
Great video. For my deep divers, I typically use a composite rod. For catching river smallies, I use a shorter glass rod. That way I can still have some casting accuracy and the softness when a smallmouth blasts my squarebill. I did try the composite for the same presentation and I lost several fish. So there is a difference when I am trying to move the bait quicker as opposed to getting down deep. I think the key is just having the greater flex in the rod when fishing with higher speeds (moderate fast to moderate).
Was debating returning my glass rod till I saw this was wondering if I’d be able to catch smallies around a railroad bridge off a boat or have an issue loosing lures on a glass rod
@@Hshshdfb You should be fine. I actually started with fishing river smallies with a composite rod. When I was fishing MD's there was no problem with my hook ups. Squarebills on the other hand, it was 50-50. I changed line and put on different hooks. It was still 50-50. I then bought a Wright and McGill glass squarebill rod and never looked back. The bass seem to hit the squarebill WAY harder and the extra shock absorption and slowness really helps. The landing percentage is now at about 95%. I wade as well and have caught big walleye and big smallies on this rod. I still use the composite for MD and deep divers with no issue.
Your right b Latt, don't listen to everybody, listen to you, yourself and what your confidence is. So go with what feels right to you.
Hi Brian, I have used both rods for cranking. I'm not that inprest with the glass .I've lost a lot on a glass rod.I can feel the bites better on a graphite and landed much more bass on em.I feel they can be to soft at times.I'm sticking with my graphite rods for cranking.thank you Brian.
I think mono on fast tip crank rods and Fluoro on glass for treble hooks is great advice. I use mono on everything, but went to fluoro for my moderate action with great results.
I always cranked with a graphite rod up until this past summer. I feel that your logic is probably spot on. But I am leaning more towards glass rods and have been building a few now. I really like the Rod Geeks and the Judge rods. The judge rods are like 50% glass and 50% graphite and the but is stiff. So you kind of get the best of both worlds. Soft first half but if you jack em you can load into the stiffer portion and get those hooks in. The reason I have started to lean away from graphite for cranking at least in the warmer months is that the fish are more likely to go nuts at the boat and I loose a lot at the boat. Lost a tourney on Clear Lake because I was tossing square bills on a graphite rod. Had more 5+lbers than I can count come off at the boat.
This is a really good video. A lot of good insight from a guy spending time on the water.
His videos are always awesome, he always seems to do things just a little different, outside of the norm, I'm the same way and appreciate the hell out of it
Also lets put this out there....absolutely bad ass content. Great information and I wish more pros would adopt this model for putting out videos.
I just won a Phenix glass cranking rod last week and so far, it's been pretty amazing.
Brian, just wanted to say thank you for your vids. Your very informative and very clear with your videos. I look forward to learning more from you
When I was a boy, fiberglass rods were what we used because that was all you could buy in the stores. As a teenager and when I really started fishing, fiberglass/graphite and even boron composites were the most predominant rods found on most store racks. They were cheap and as sensitive as a wet noodle. Pure graphite rods were very stiff and expensive. Today's graphite is a completely different animal. I will stick with it, as I can now get any kind of rod I want with modern graphite while being both sensitive and durable. When I fish with spinning or casting gear, I almost always fish with treble hooks, and for bass, pike and walleye, almost always throw crankbaits. I use exclusively graphite rods. My racks have everything from ultralight to heavy powers and moderate to extra-fast actions. I have come to prefer a more moderate action for crankbaits and faster actions for ultralight trout lures. And I prefer very stiff actions for top water fishing. As for line, I like braid only for the no stretch ability on top water and on some more ignorant spinning reels that have line twist issues. I use mono on everything else.
What up Brian. I like that sick stick throwback hat. Well I just purchased the new Ugly Stik carbon Graphite Rods a 7'3 7'0 footer and a 6-8 I'm hoping that they perform as well as they look I haven't got the opportunity to fish with them yet but I had to go back over a couple of videos that you did fo make sure that I put the right line right real and the right lures on each one of them so thank you B you make things a lot more easier. I think I'll be using graphite cut that glass it cost a pretty penny pretty pretty pretty penny.
I can barely remember using glass rods from back in the day. Recently my Son and I where cranking over a shallow dying grass bed with quality graphite med fast action rods and we mopped up on some nice Bass. These rods had enough back bone to pull free from grass when needed, where I think a glass rod would have lacked the back bone to pull through. The graphite rods allowed the fish to load up whether they gave a quick abush strike or a slow follow strike. The graphite med. rods gave us the ability to set the hook and reel in aggressively without pulling out of the fish. We only lost one fish that day and it was because of how it was played. Also were able to land a 22" Redfish. Which was about all that rod could handle. FUN
Just bought a St. Croix Legend Glass rod a few weeks ago. I've fished with it liberally since then. I've only ever lost one fish. I've got to say that over-all it's my favorite rod I've ever owned. Beautiful look, great balance, and unparalleled comfort.
EDIT: I fish almost exclusively rattle-baits on the rod and it's a heavy action. It has the backbone to drive hooks home. I also change out all my hooks to wide-gap, light wire Gams.
I like the idea of changing out the hooks first and foremost because it makes a huge difference especially with the Gamakatsu wide gap wire hooks and that St Croix rod is phenomenal
@@RyanSmith-fb8rf things get a bit pricey but I usually only throw a couple styles and sizes of lipless so it works out.
I mainly fish clear weedy lakes and I mostly use a medium action graphite rod when I'm using lures with treble hooks. I'll use med/heavy for larger lures. If the bass start getting unhooked I'll switch to an e glass cranking rod. If I'm fishing a lure with #6 treble hooks I'll use a cranking rod especially in the warmer months.
Well as for rods, I use both, composite and graphite but then they both have moderate taper and are parabolic. Found rods that fit my style as well as I crank with braid with a leader.
Just my experience: I used to crank with a graphite rod. I only landed 60-70% of the fish. About a year ago I switched to the St. Croix Legend Glass. Now the landing ratio is, without a doubt, above 90%. Just today I hooked 20+ bass cranking. They weren't inhaling it and only a few of those were getting the front hooks (a couple were also foul hooked). The glass rod landed all but 2 and that's a rarity for me that I lost those 2. I also have a friend that swears by his graphite and claims he loses fish on glass. I think a lot depends on your hook set mechanics, hooks, line type, how much you horse them verses how much you play them and so on. In short, there's so many variables there's simply no "best", there's only what works best for you. Just my amateure .02 worth.
Spot on about dont drink the Kool-Aid about mono comment. Graphite with mono has been around for years and still works great!!
It took me a bit to get use to but once I did I love a 7'4 med heavy glass rod for chatterbait types & squarebill cranks. I like graphite for deep crankbaits. I feel the fish & bottom/structure better
Graphite med fast with mono- when they are slow, graphite med light with fluro when they are aggressive. I am more accurate with graphite and a faster tip. I feel like I have the same sensitivity but the hook sets are different. When they are aggressive i really don't have to set it and need something to absorb the impact, when they are slow i don't want the stretch of mono and need the fluro to aid with the hook set. Awsome video.
5ross1
1 second ago
Graphite/mono is all I have ever cranked with. On some lakes I use 10 lb. and on other lakes I use 14 lb. depending on cover. I was thinking of getting a graphite composite rod but after listening to you I will not spend the extra money. I can use it for some of the newer crankbaits. My crankbaits are all over 20 years old. LOL
I have to mostly agree. I do want to add though that even though I agree about graphite allowing more accuracy, If I really need to blast that crank way out there I always grab the ole Ugly Stick! In my experience it's hard to beat glass for launching crank baits a mile.
You are a pro bass fisherman, I think I remember u on the bass masters? Ur channel is cool, like ur in-depth conversations about rods and reals, catching fish etc. good stuff.
Mono is not dead! Great call Brian. Based on my experience.... that was a home run breakdown. Keep being open while questioning the status quo.
That beard is legendary
Yes it is. I totally agree
B-Lat Beard Oil 🤔
I use a graphite rod with Yozuri Hybrid co-poly currently, but I do have a 7' medium Kistler Argon composite rod that I am going to try this year for lighter crankbaits (bandits and speed traps)
My hookup/landing ratio doubled when I switched to a composite rod. Delayed hookset and slow, parabolic bend helps keep fish pinned.
I’ve been having awesome luck with a 7’ -3” Carrot stick MH parabolic bend. The rod is graphite with the nano technology. The long bend in the rod keeps them hooked up. I throw a lot of DT 10’s on 10lb. Fluorocarbon. They just don’t come off. The 7-3” MH Micro Pro Duckett Rod has about the same action. That rod is rated for big spinnerbaits, football jigs, Carolina rigging and large top water lures.
I still use monofilament almost 100% of the time. I no longer fish tournaments, no longer have a boat, so I don't automatically jump at every new item that comes onto the market. Also, I worked in the retail fishing industry for over 15 years, so I've been around long enough to know that most new items are created more for the purpose of catching fishermen, and not necessarily fish!
I like the rhythm and feedback I get from that nice 'wobble' a good, light, mostly glass, rod has for retrieve baits. My David Fritts 7' footer I just purchased at Dick's, has that wobble that I can sense anything with my eyes closed tight, and still have a ton of loading power.
Man you explained what I really feel but didn’t have the words for!!!!! The feedback you get from that glass with a crankbait is so much different and once you get used to that it’s hard to turn down. Since this video dropped about a year ago I don’t use any graphite at all anymore. I just really got into a cadence and feel with that glass that I’ve learned to love
7' M Halo Starlite rod, My primary squarebill rod, good parabolic bend to it, its a micro guide rod and i use 12 to 15# mono, 6:1 reel. I feel like its properly balanced and it gets the job done for me. Its also a good 3/8 chatterbait rod especially when i rig it with braid.
I only use a graphite rod for fishing no matter what. I prefer graphite rod when throwing crankbaits because of the sensitivity that I get. Most of the time, I hook the fish on the back treble but doing this has taught me to catch fish by working them back towards me and wearing them out.
There are those times though, when the big fish absolutely chokes the crankbaits on the graphite rod (and this is exciting)! These are the times when my graphite rod loads up like a glass rod, and it honestly feels like I hooked deadweight seaweed or milfoil or something. It’s weird that I’m defying the odds, but I’ve became a better fisherman by this. It teaches me patience and control, and I have learned to work with the odds that I have. And surprisingly, whether you agree or not, all my rods are spinning rods - (Fenwick Walleye Elite Tech and St. Croix Triumph). I know how to use casting but it just doesn’t suit my style of fishing. I know I sound crazy, but it’s works. The spinning graphite rod is the way to go.
I have 1casting rod for everything. 7'2" Graphite medium heavy fast with 15# mono.
What kind is it?
Def need more than 1 casting rod for different lures senor
That's all fine and dandy. But that 1 rod cannot do it all, or it most certainly can't do it as well as a niche rod. I recommend having a sensitive rod for finesse fishing, a skip casting rod, a crank, a heavy. That at the very least covers most, if not all, the basics.
I always fish a graphite rod for a chatterbait because I like it to be a little sturdier. I have had good success with my crank bait on graphite as well but I don’t throw it as much in the summer.
I had a medium fast action Browning Rod that I got from Bass Pro and that thing was STOUT, one time I caught a 15lb Blue on it with 14lb Red Cajun on Abu Garcia Blackmax reel. Man I miss that thing is was a sexy combo with that Black and Red reel with the red line and straight black rod, I'm a stickler with combos I hate it when the colors don't match up.
For a long time I didn't have a glass rod. So I fished crank baits with mono. I felt that gave me close to the same effect. I had to adjust a bit to the bait not diving as deep as with fluorocarbon. I'm not a pro. I can't spin a golf ball either so I don't need Tiger Woods ball. I can't ski like Franz Klammer, so I don't need the ski he skis. Are you getting my point?
No. I'll guess: because you aren't a pro, you don't need a glass composite so you can still fish fluoro. You aren't a pro, so fishing graphite with mono will be good enough. Did I get it? Let me know. Thanks.
I just started using Millerods. The Crankfreak for my med-deep divers and the Squarefreak for my Squareheads. I love them both. They are a Graphite custom blended rod but I just like the feel of graphite when Im throwing around cover and such. They both have plenty of parabolic bend to deal with surging fish at the boat and load quite well.
I like a graphite rod with copolymer line. Med/fast tip. Works well when the waters cold has enough backbone to penetrate their mouth. But also keeps them pinned during warmer months and I don't have to keep changing my crankbait setup
I've found a glass is without the best rod, however I do something most people don't, I stick the fish pretty good, I believe you need to really get good puncture into the fish, then I play them out, I don't just "lay into them" I found I don't get enough penetration if I just lay into them and they shake it a lot, I hardly lose fish and I'm young so I don't have a lot of funds so I fish factory hooks, or cheap replacements like eagle claw laser sharp
All I use is graphite and like you said I use mono but as a leader, reason being I only have 4 bait casters because I’m just getting into the sport I have them all loaded with braid to keep from losing a lot of my expensive lures, and I started looking at favorite rods per your advice and as you said they don’t currently have a glass rod for cranking... but I love the feel of the leader and the way it allows me to switch on the fly the way I’m fishing with limited equipment!!! Great Video once again and I saw your end cap display at Dicks I told my sons that’s my homie on the FLW tour I talk to no and then lol! They were like yeah right dad! Lol
Digging your channel ! Shallow stuff and lipless I have been using a graphite jerkbait rod , still switch between mono and flouro ( cant make up my mind ) . I like being able to pop my bait out of the grass and not have that mushy feeling of a glass rod. I run my reel drag as light as I can get away with considering the cover im fishing. Deep divers I still run long glass rods and just deal with the mush because I feel I get longer cast with them .
I want to start off by saying congratulations on the W! Now on the rod subject, I to use both. On my deep diving crankbaits I use a KVD glass rod. Going deep they have a lot of time to spit the hooks out and that give helps me put them in the boat.Shallow cranking I use graphite.
A lot of it is what you have confidence in, I used to use bps cranking rods then switched over to the older generation G-Loomis cranking rods and use them for cranking, buzzbaits and bladedjigs on the medium heavy.
My crankin rod is 100% graphite and it loads great it is a 7’6” medium, medium action rod and it is perfect
I’ve always used a medium power graphite rod with mono for cranking, but I recently purchased a glass rod I’m really excited about trying out. Good video!
me personally i fish guntersville primarily and if you can’t feel every time that bait runs it’s gonna be a tough day. if you can’t feel the grass you won’t catch bass. i use the hammer 7’0 medium heavy to clear the grass and it has an awesome tip.
Really like this style of video. Like the pros thoughts on different setups and styles we've used forever and whether they still make since to use. Thanks Brian!
I use that Favorite rod for cranking and it seems to work just fine.
Great video. I don’t throw cranks enough to give an opinion, but it gives me something to think about and look for when I do. Thank you!
Brian I use a composite rod when I’m trying to bomb cast way out there and a graphite around targets. I’m with you no accuracy with my glass rods.
It really doesn't matter to me Brian, but I like your thoughts on the subject. I still use Browning rods that are brown glass for all but the heaver crank baits and I switch to a medium graphite and mono 15#, The Browning rods are gone from the outlets, so I'll have to find a cranking rod I like. I am very thankful I can still go, even if I have to use graphite or composite or what ever. LOL Thank You for taking your valuable time to help us out. Have a blessed day.
I use a graphite rod with copolymer line. I get the sensitivity of graphite and some stretch, but also good sensitivity.
I agree with you, I can feel everything with a graphite rod, I've used a 7ft medium Abu Garcia rod for a few years. But, I bought a falcon hd 7ft medium, but it's a moderate action, 1/4 to 1/2 ounce rating, it's a 100% graphite rod, but acts like a glass rod in my opinion, I use 10lb copolymer on both, I've experienced the same things since using the falcon. Good video man, keep it up
I’m a graphite guy. I like feeling what I’m hitting more. If I want more rod sensitivity I’ll just go with a lighter rod. BUT this is coming from a Crappie/Walleye main. I do bass fish a lot I just wouldn’t call myself an expert.
Well to be honest I have googan green go to rod & since these last two yrs it has been catching bass & pike without any issue. I myself havent used a glass rod yet however I am very eager to try a glass rod but I honest don't know where to start in buying a glass rod at my affordable price point ($200) & at 7ft. With so many rods on the market please tell bruh where I should start. I am torn between trying out combat rod & dobyns rod. Thank for you honest input on which I should get between those two brands.
Just started watching your video on crankbait rods great great video I use nothing but graphite rods I have had a glass rod and I bought it specifically for crankbait fishing I believe you're correct a graphite rod with monofilament is better then a glass rod with fluorocarbon I caught more fish on graphite with mono anything else using a crankbait thank you Brian keep up the great videos
Kinda new and trying to be more versatile. Gonna be cranking alot this year and this helps. Got a cherrywood hd medium and a kastking whitemax. Was gonna put floro but think ima do mono to start. I fish off a kayak so im not that deep
I use graphite for all cranking. I've used glass and graphite for both shallow and deep with various lengths and actions. Graphite just seems to be more sensitive and loads better for my style.
just stumbling onto this video, honestly here australia fishing the estuaries i prefer a stiffer rod. i was using the daiwa infeet ultralight but i moved back toward the older shimano
Im using a St Croix premier crankbait rod, its a full graphite moderate crankbait rod I use mono for cranking also
I'll say this first, I haven't used a glass rod for cranking yet. I used a medhvy/modfast graphite rod with 10lb mono for all of my cranking needs this past year. Decided to get one rod to try most depths of cranking and this is where I ended up at. I've only lost fish when I was horsing them in (and they were small anyways) or when they were slapping my trap this spring, could've just needed to change hooks to a round bend. I think you have to judge your ability to play with drag or thumb the spool and play fish in order to determine whether you want glass or graphite because I see a lot talk about strikes right at the boat and loosing fish.
Another thing to consider is length of rod. The rod I chose is 7'6" for the fact that I can launch the deeper divers like a 5 and 6xd, but up shallow there is more rod to bend if I get a fish that strikes close to the boat.
As a side note: I think someone missed the first guide on their rod. How do you like that mustang taku bib? Have you tried the jacket also?
I grew up using a glass rod because that was all there was, after I got graphite rods I found out a medium power moderate action works good I feel the bites the moderate action allows me to set the hook without ripping the hooks out of the fish I like graphite .
That was a great video. You basically proved what I have been telling all my buddy’s about mono and cranking. I use mono a lot for cranking and spinner baits. Keep up the great work.
Glass used to be my favorite for cranking but as I've aged and the wear on my wrists has kicked in from years of work I've gone to composite for weight savings. I have found that what we as anglers need to figure in is if you are using braid to leaders as I do you can go to copolymere like polyflex from Gamma and that will add the stretch to keep the trebles engaged. I have even added a leader of copoly to flourocarbon for stretch with treble. Personally feel that switching from glass will add other options for that same rod also as far as other baits being used I.E., spinnerbaits, chatters etc.
I went out the other day after watching your video and I couldn’t stop thinking about it. I do not have a glass rod but I do have a moderate action and a medium rod. I lost 3 nice bass on the moderate rod and hooked all bass with the medium fast. I would say that after awhile I had to kinda set the hook a lot harder on the moderate rod to keep them hooked. Thank you for the video.
I used to be one of those guys that thought rods really don't matter for different baits. I had 4 or 5 MH rods with a fast or extra fast tip that used for absolutely everything. Then one day I was throwing a 6XD in 5 ft of water and hooked 5 or 6 big bass like all over 4 lbs and they all got off because I only had them hooked with the back set of hooks. The problem was with those fast tipped rods I felt the strike immediately and drew down on them and they all got off because of it. I was so mad that I left and went straight to the store and bought 2 crankbait rods and went back the next morning. On the second cast I felt my bait just stop so I drew back and got the fish in with no problems at all. I hooked it with both sets of hooks and it was a nice 4.5 pounder. After that I caught fish all day and didn't have the first one get off and I really think it was because I had the right setup. The moderate tip along with a good parabolic bend made all the difference in the world for me. They were both graphite rods in a medium heavy. Having that give to my rods made all the difference in getting the fish in, instead of using the 2×4's I was using before in my other rods. Those other rods are great for fishing anything but a crankbait, something I had to learn for myself the hard way. So my advice is that if a seasoned pro like Brian says you need this rod to fish this kind of bait then I'm sure he knows what he's talking about and not just trying to get you to go buy his signature stuff like some guys do. I'm no pro by no means but I usually catch fish when I go and trust me when I tell you that you need a crankbait rod when you fish a crankbait. It will make a good day even better when you don't have to tell someone about the big one that got off.
I use a glass rod but load with 15lb braid.....then may or may not (depending on the cover and water clarity) tie either a mono or floro leader. Works very good for me and I don't seem to lose many fish.
Dobyns champion 705cb Glass fast action with a Metanium dc for squarebills, 3xd style medium divers, and open water lipless cranks. Best cranking setup I’ve ever owned/used
I’ve used glass rods I don’t like because they are “whippy” (Shimano and loomis rods especially) but I really don’t like graphite rods for shallow cranking because they get me snagged more. Dobyns 705cb Glass fast action is the happy medium for me... For deep cranking 6xd+ baits, I like graphite because I feel I need the sensitivity in some situations
*Seems like a pretty good reel **enjoyable.fishing** recommend and the rod is even better then I expected, pretty stiff for a medium but really nice quality.*