@@macplastering I am a DIYER, did around 30 sq mtr floor garden path/ramp - it was my first time so didnt know the water ratio it was a nightmare levelling it bcz it was too wet. m gona do another 30 sq mtr area soon with your techniques. hopefully it 'd be easier this time will let you know. near Dunstable
@@sidjohnson1776 This mix is for inside I cant remember trying it outside but yes let me know how you get on as long as you have good solid bed to work over I would think it should come up well let me know buddy wishing you the best
@Roy1 anytime buddy also could add sbr and water proffer to mix to help prevent any issues . There should also be a dpm under the sub floor... when doing our own there is dpm under the sub and I will do more again on top of sub floor
I have a flat external roof patio that has fibreglass and decothane (liquid plastic) coating. I want to lay a screed to fall to stop the pooling. What prep would you do over the coating, fibre-mesh, DPM etc ? or would you strip back to original concrete? cheers.
Hello mate, I am looking for dry mix ratio. I have new plumbing pipework down (Insulated qualplex) and now need to fill the dug channels. What would you suggest? All the best!
thanks suprised how dry it is.it sure makes sense though.il be confident enough if i cum across a job to do.cheers u sure do have a lot of educational videos
The 3 mm would be very hard to get that to stay on we would put this gear down 3 inches at the norm how did you get on ? sorry for late reply been very ill
I have a slightly less difficult job with a wet room screed that, at its thinnest will be about 15mm thick. I have made a sample with 6 grams of fibres per litre of cement and 300 ml of SBR per litre of cement and 3 litres of sand per litre of cement. I cured it for 24 hours at 45C so I could test it quicker and it is already pretty tough. However, from all I have read the only solution for something 3 mm or less is an epoxy screed that costs a small fortune.
Great video - thanks for sharing! I have a bumpy garage floor that I want to level off for garage flooring tiles. There is a 5-6” gradient back to front where it meets the driveway, so levelling compound is a no go. Could you tell me, what’s the thinnest this kind of screed can be applied please? Cheers!
The thinnest I have ever when was 10mm in places with no issues but I dont lots of preparation I bonded to floor with sbr added sbr to mix and also fibre's to help reinforce the screed , both floors where tiles one I would still see now and again and it has lasted very well , but if you plan on driving on it you might want something stronger than screed like a liquid concrete ?
mac plastering Thanks for the reply. Yeah, thought as much. It’s not going to have to support a car (garage not long enough), but it’s probably still pushing it as it will probably be shallower than 10mm in most places. Guess I’ll try and coax a floor screed to not run out of the front of the garage 😉
mac plastering Yeah, was layed about 15 years ago... divots, and bumpy stoney surface now. Do I give it a coat of pva priming prior to levelling, or whack it straight on? *quite dusty
@@watty13 floating screed should be laid around 65 to 75 mm thick a foating screed is on insulation and dpm = damp proof membrane, but this would be called a bonded floor witch would still be recommend to go 25 to 40 mm if this was my house and I really didn't have room to go higher but wanted to get it much more level I wouldl either get a suitable self leveller or if need to screed my plan of attack would be get that dust off brush t hover it until is as dust free as possible then I would do a say 5 to 1 mix 5 water 1 sbr and paint the whole floor a day before to seal that dust down then the next day when im ready for the mix I would have sbr in the mix bear in mind it will speed up setting time but add strength , there is other additives that can add strength sutch as fibres so I would get them in again they can and will making finishing that little harder but will act as a reinforcement to help reduce cracking so I have my mix read before I dump it out on the area I am about to start I will again paint that area with pure sbr and go over it while its wet so the mix will set with it giving the best bond possible bond , another step I might think of is scoring the floor some but it might cause more dust and mess that it could help , Screeding is no easy task for sure and this type of floor is very challenging but hope I have gave some good points for you do think over , you might be safe doing a small test area somewhere to test strength and bond before going at the whole job ? again hope this is helpfull mate
Hi, what would the minimum depth be (if there is one)? & what is best bonding agent? I was thinking of using undiluted PVA glue, I am in Uk - thanks Paul
@@macplastering Hi, I was gonna use some self levelling compound but I’m not confident, I saw you video and hoped I could do it like this but my maximum hi/low point is around 12mm, what would you do then?
Sorry for late reply mate youtube hide about 50 comments on me in held for review box ? is only meant to go there is bad words in.... but yes so to answer you the thinnest I ever went was 10mm in places but I had used sbr on floor also in mix along with fibres to help give it good strength again this is really pushing the limit but its also why I done the extra's to help make it work and last
what's on the floor now? I have done one that was 10mm over a solid floor but i bonded down with an sbr type glue and had fibers in the mix to make it stronger and reduce cracks but was deeper in places its recommended 3inches from google = The optimum thickness of a sand and cement bonded screed is 25-40mm
Could I ask, I’m porcelain tilling some existing concert in my back garden.. but the floor is uneven, maybe off by about 20mm. It’s only an area of 6m2 would this be adequate to lay initially to level before I cement the tiles over? Watched your video already great help, thanks mate..
The optimum thickness of a sand and cement bonded screed is 25-40mm so 20 is pushing it to the limit The lowest I have ever went on a job was 10mm but I compacted it real well was a strong mix in the fact i added fibers and sbr to mixes to help reduce the chances if it cracking and also sbr / bonded the floor i was going over with neat sbr that floor is now got tiles on it and has been ok for a good few years now , its one of them jobs it is risky but I done everything I could to make the best job possible , the floor i was going over was between 2 rooms one was 10mm in places lower so i needed to level them through for the tiles I was working over and existing screeded floor so i had a solid background what will you be working on top off my friend ?
mac plastering thanks for the reply!! Iv turned my hand at a host of diy jobs by watching videos like yours! It’s a concrete base already (I think it was previously a patio that was knocked down) and the one side is about 20mm lower.. I can always raise it by 20-30mm and even it towards the other side by 5mm say. Also as I’ll be laying a bed of mortar to lay the porcelain tiles on afterwards, so this could even put some size difference. just wondered whether it would keep for the laying of the tiles afterwards thank you for replying and hope you get the picture I’m trying to describe! 😆👍🏼
@@benprice2984 yes perfect picture mate.... by keep do you mean not set hard are the tiles heavy what thickness are they mate ? how deep of a bed of sand and cement mortar do you need?
mac plastering I was planning on doing the process of ‘screeding’ like in your video... levelling it off somewhat to about 20-25mm letting it dry then coming back and laying about 30mm of mortar and then laying the 20mm porcelain slabs! Thank you again for your guidance bud massively appreciated!
Sounds a good plan screed should be set in a day or two but you could lay a few boards down to spread the load out some where you are walking or just compact it real well when laying :) glad my info helped some buddy keep it touch and let me know how it turns out
I have seen the guys laying them with a wet mix mate and was talking to a guy who lays them says he uses sbr now in mix also to stop them popping especially for natural stone type, I think you could use this but the bond wouldn't be great unless it wet to help stick/bond
Hello great video. I want to do screed floors I'm my house, I won't be putting down any tiles. I'm interested in the fiber reinforced screed as I heard it's good for heavy traffic areas. What bonder should I use? Also when should the fibers be added? Also how thick should it be? Is 2 inches too thick?
75mm is best its around 3 inch's I add the fibers to the mix adding to the water will just make them stick in lumps and not spread out I also use sbr as a goof bonding it is also water proof hope this is helpful mate
Hi hope your well, if you had a small space, 1mx1.5m area, and didnt have access to a mechanical mixer, is it possible to mix that ratio by hand and use as screed? If so how would you advise to do the mix? Many thanks for the vids!
Hello mate doing good here hope you and your family are also, so yes it will be hard work I would do it with damp sand and add the cement then just mix by hand again this will be hard work much like I have done for this video - ua-cam.com/video/2x7LN0X1wi0/v-deo.html
@@macplastering we are good thanks, very much appreciate your response and advice, will give it a go and hopefully will go well! Since its going over a bitumen based painted dpm, do you advise still using PVA primer or anything else first?
3inches on a solid sub floor is normal mate i think you are just below that but if sub floor is sound it shouldn't be to bad you can add fibers to mix and sbr are you putting down ppm or is that already in the floor below?
mac plastering the step is concrete but it’s tilted bout 20 mil to front.i don’t need that much of tilt.its getting tiled over so need flat surface.what bout ready mixed screed in bag ?im a beginner so any advice is great
@@anitagoodsleep5330 Screed should be laid around 3 inch , I read online that The optimum thickness of a sand and cement bonded screed is 25-40mm, so at 20mm you will be below the recommend thinnest , I wonder is there a self leveller you could use instead mate I would just worry that screed that thin on a step could lift of on you as steps take a lot of punishment,
mac plastering good point.my mate said said I should box it off n do that or pour concrete.i just need something flat and sturdy for tiling.cheers for advice mate
Hi great video just wanted to know if i can do this to replace dry rot on joists in living room? Joists are only 2x2 so would need to dig down and put insulation in
I wayne mate I have only ever done solid to solid floors I dont think there would be a big difference , might need to dig out and down ,depending what's down already ? I(f soil dig out to level needed whack down stones put in dpm insulation and then concrete then dpm again and screed . Before all that might need to block up any holes round side that joist went into with brick and possibly stop the screed and than filling the vents or if it wont matter block them 2 but would all depend on the build , could work out cheaper to do the timber again and add dpm under it ?
@@macplastering its customers decision mate to have the concrete floor put in, i havnt yet been to the property but he said from the looks of the subfloor it seems earthy, with stones etc, usually the subfloor is about 2ft below the joists so wondering if the last people who lived there filled it up with random soil an hardcore?? So would it need to be concreted first before unbonded screed or can i just do a floating screed like you did after putting DPM and insulation in?
@@waynedunne4838 I have always went over concrete mate , a house we dug out before had no jokes tiles then inder was 2inch screed then 2inch sand then soil / clay was a right paint to dig out took a few skips and hard work and a few broken spades haha but every floor I have ever done had concrete 1st , a brick layer told me best way is hardcore wacked down dpm down then concrete that then dpm again to be sure and insulation then the screed , done lotds of floors where builder want dpm then insulation and others want insulation them dpm , if you ask me it dont matter aslog as both are there I know I would prefer dpm under concrete then insulation then dpm and screed on that , the instulation in my eyes stays dryer that way wont smell when drying ether if this make sense ?
Hi mate sorry I thought i answered this but seen that i haven't Have not done one in a while so trying to look back n my book to see how far we went down , I thin one room was down to how far down the founds where as we could not undermine them so this might be a good way for you to start mate. So if you dig down untill you see the founds then measure up and see what you have to pay with , Read one time that the soil types can and will effect foundation depths ,clay soil , sandy soil , piled founds So when you have it all out and clear they way i would go about it is measure down so you need from 65 to 75 mm for your screed then what ever amount thickness of insulation you want in say another 65mm I think that is minimum required next then would be the subfloor concrete witch minimum would be 4inches thick so what ever is left you now need to fill with hardcore best to whack down like 3 inch layers at a time to make sure it is well compacted and no voids I whack it down in a few diffrent directions also side to side up and down then around and at angle to angle over kill possibly but this is the 1st layer start as you main to go on, so i would use lose stone to fill some followed buy blinding its stone and quarry dust mix gets very very hard when compacted as the dust fills all voids very well when wacked locking it together. I mark my sides where i need to come up to so i dont fill to high and end up with less concrete insulation or screed that i need remember you can always add some concrete up but not down same as screed so if you lower with stones than amid you can make it up on the next level with concrete , if your getting it ordered give them sizes they will work out how much needed get a skip and add 5 to 10% on depending how big the job is to make sure you dont run low and can dump rest if you did run out of screed never run it down into a slop but cut it of and either mix more or buy more to finish like this little demo - ua-cam.com/video/XuTdGEUoQz8/v-deo.html These are the ways I would go about it Hope this all helps and still here if need any more ideas mate
@@macplastering Thanks for getting back to me.. I had the concrete laid today on the extension oversite. They've finished 15mm short of the dpc height as they didn't order enough! so now have 35mm to make up to finished floor height.. want to cut costs down.. roughly 20m2 to screed
@@martincraggs1162 I would recommend 3inches its about 75mm I have went as low as 10mm in places but bonded the subfloor and also had fibers in my mix with no issues but it was not easy and again would recommend about 3inches is best have you thought about a liquid screed ? it can leave a very nice finish also but might be expensive ?
Tried a small area 3:1:1 quarry/grano dust : sand : cement. Didn’t go as planned. I think with a semi dry mix the small stones in the dust made it harder to pull the straight edge accross the surface and leave a nice smooth finish. Ended up having at add a lot more water and change to a more concrete type mix to finish off. Got 30sq/m left to do, so going to switch to 4:1 sharp sand : cement as per your vids.
Have very little vids up off it usually do it in situ and repair ect dont get a big pile of work with it to be honest but my setup would be a bench around 9 foot long if doing 8 foot runs will be doing some bench work soon making a few things ceiling rose and a cap to finish of that one i was running the other day
well both floating and polishing with the steel trowel this is how i do floors = ua-cam.com/video/1z5CBoDO1AQ/v-deo.html have older videos but this is the newest one also helpfully will be making a new one in future
@@swldn I would power wash the thing all down , take all lose away then either sbr as you work so you are going over it wet and add some to the mix witch should help it get stronger , but if you have a good layer of thickness down it should be good and strong 3 inches plus , but concrete might be a better option for out side , thought screed will be neat to work with , Hope this helps mate
Depends I think concrete would be stronger but is it a light shed for light stuff ? thing is even when we screed it always has a sub floor of concrete most imte the sub flor then insulation then plastic and screed on.... Oh mate if you ever come arcos a video we have done and think of a better title just let me know :)
I have used so many cameras and software mate windows movie maker open shot camtisa you name it I proply used it and camreas cheap 30£ ones to dear sony and a go pro now the most with a jvc and sony back up something tells me 4k is needed but again would it matter would it make a difference ?
@@macplastering I used to be a photographer. Camera makes a huge diff. You need something with a decent iso. The better the iso the less light you need to get good quality in low light and cos your alway working in dark houses it might make a difference. Brighten up the shot. Little techniques like position the camera so the light from the window is shining where u want to film. New iPhones have brilliant cameras (I'm an android guy but my daughter has an iPhone and the cameras are way better) So yeah if u spend on a genuine go pro (not cheap knock off) you'll get far better quality. Also having a flood light would help if it's dark. I know u probs don't wanna go that far just yet. Then u can edit the videos a bit more "youtuby" to make them more instantly likable. Dunno if you've ever watched "Chris fix" he is a car repair guy who developed a brilliant catchy style of videos. People watch them even if they have no intention of fixing their own car because his style is so watchable. Makes it look so easy and shows you all the dos and don't in a fun way. Might be worth watching and seeing if it's something you could apply to your videos. Might take some planning out. Imagine you hit it off on UA-cam tho. Cha ching. Do you make a few quid from your videos as it stands?
Only seen this reply now mate sometimes I dont get notified from youtube. Thanks for the advice mate yes seen that guy the blue gloves :) to be honest i just dont know my style yet but i might get it when it lands on me like a pile of blocks get some but not very much as of yet and to get this stage has took real hard work in the videoing editing and at same time doing the job... if you ever get spare time mate pick your fav video of mine and tell me why I will try replicate those things :) also let me know what your thought are on the new stuff as it comes :)
Alright dude, hope all is well! I've been tasked to render and screed a swimming pool. I'm fine on the rendering but haven't screedes for years, is there any tips or advice you could give me. The pool getting a liner over it so it doesn't have to be bang on but I obviously want to do the best job possible. Kind regards George Allen
have a few videos of me making some screed with both the electric and petrol mixing drills not sure ya seen them but defo this would be stronger for it
another great vid! so ive worked out i need to mix 0.35sqm to get my bathroom up to level. thats a fair amount of sand and cement, im working alone. do you have any tips on mixer size and amount to put in mixer each time?im able to get the mixer in the bedroom right next to the bathroom and i can dump the screed mix into it from outside the bedroom. also is it best to buy the sand and cement and mix yourself vs 35 bags of it ready mixed? thanks again!
I like ready mixed the best a truck / lorry can come and dump it off ,so i cover up ground with plastic and get it their then bring in with a wheel barrow, If i have to mix for small areas I do it also outside to stop the dust then pour into the barrow and wheel it in its hard work but is the best way to do it as keeps your lungs safe mixing outside, this mixer hold I thin 4 or 5 buckets for screed witch will give you a nice big barrow full , advantages of getting it delivered is out can tell them what amount you need the mix and deliver it so you just need to get it in an laid down
@@macplastering thanks again! so its finally screed day on sunday for me, thickness is 50mm one end, 100mm the other, 2.4x1.6m area, about 0.3 cubic metres. its going on top of concrete, should i use some kind of bonding agent to get the screed to bond to the concrete? or maybe brush in some mix into the dampened concrete? thanks.
@@macplastering no, ive only ever been told to use some kind of bonding agent. theres going to be waterproofing done on top of the screed as its a bathroom. in oz they use strips that are about 100mm wie that cover all joins, and then a waterproof paint on all wet areas
@@jamskof The dpm s to stop damp coming up mate here we have to use dpm and insulation most times the dmp is under the concrete then another layer with the insulation to be safe then screed but if you cant then for sure a bonding agent will do no harm at all keeping the floor down
if you have all you dpms in the concrete straight away as long as it can be walked on if you need to add dpms still you will want to let most of the water dry out 1st as you dont want to trap it in
Hi mate, great video 👍 might sound a stupid question but when you say 4:1 sand and cement would that be four buckets of sand and one bucket of cement for a bigger mix?
No problems Jim mate better to ask a question and feel silly for a second than no ask and be silly forever :) but in all honesty mate there is no silly question's always here if you need
I remember a builder telling me to put some bricks in the mix to break the balls in it, but wetting the sand 1st is the best I think if mixing a little bit throw in the sand and cement let it mix quickly and straight in the barrow
Hi buddy thanks... yes this would be sower than a larger mixer or getting ordered in ready to use but for small jobs its good :):) Thanks again hope you get to subscribe for more
How we finish our floors inside I think that in the US you guys do concrete and finish it relay well Here it is stones pounded down then plastic and then concrete the insulation possible more plastic and the screed finish
I ask you because here in Mexico we use sand and gravel (crushed hillstone) we mix sand, gravel, and portland cement, empty the firm, and then we have to give it the finish with cement diluted in water and hit it with the trowel, and I see in the video that when going battering is already polishing
Hi Mac, great video as always. I'm considering screeding the entire floor in my bungalow, as we have taken down all the internal walls and the floor levels differ between rooms. The floor area is 44m². I have not attempted something like this before but I am keen to try things and learn skills for future. Am I crazy? I wanted to ask in particular about your method of levelling the edges of the room first (C-shape). Would this be a problem for such a large space, as my edges may be too dry to work on by the time I have got round the whole perimeter? Any suggestions/advice would be much appreciated! Cheers
Hi Chris mate doing a large area is very hard and sore on the back and could be costly if things dont go right for you mate can I ask are you putting walls back in ?
@@macplastering Thanks for your reply, yes, we are putting walls back in but in more of an open plan fashion. If I went ahead with DIYing it then I think I would mix my own? That way if it takes forever I'm not stuck with several tonnes of going off screed. Do you think it would it be advisable to plan some day joints at sensible places, in order to take my time a bit more/save my back!? Cheers
@@chrismetcalfe4827 I would think if you put the walls back in it would give great places to stop as when screeding it is good to work of the bottom of the door frames that should all be set at the same level as eatch other. Mixing is hard it would be faster to have it ordered , the way if I was you would be have walls all in door frames set to height start in the smallest room , most mixing companies will give smaller amounts so you could give them measurement for that and they will work it out and add 10% just encase . But if you are heart set on mixing again start in small area give your self a chance at it ,youll get the feel of the hard work and the skills needed to get a nice finish thats level I am not trying to put you off but letting you know that it is not easy and i find bigger room harder to do in both skill and labour aspects , I will try make a Little video to show how i go about larger area. do you have to floor concreted and preped already as in insulation dpm ect ??
@@macplastering mac plastering under the existing wibbly wobbly screed is a concrete slab, uninsulated. Ideally I'd put some insulation in there but there is not much clearance with the front door, and ceiling is quite low. Certainly will be putting a DPM under new screed, whether it's a DIY or professional job :^) Great to have advice from someone such as yourself who really knows their stuff. I like the idea of starting in smallest room (bathroom) and going from there. I plan to self level afterwards to get a final finish for hard flooring. If I mix myself I was gonna borrow a mixer and have another pair of hands mix while I lay (that's probably a given). Thanks again for the advice 👍👍👍
Hi man, great video. You really look like a guy who knows what's he's doing. Great explanations. I am trying to do leveling of screed in apartment. It's the old building made in 60s. And screed is done in good quality, but it's very uneven. I have a difference in 3cm in one room. I wanted to level it with Mapei Topcem. This is basically just like regular cement but just on "steroids". You can do whole screed with it, or you can lay it over existing screed to level it up. I made a small patch of screed just to tested it and now am not sure how good that is. So I would like to check with you few things please. If you can answer these help that would be great help for me. 1. The granularity of sand I'm using is of size 0-4 mm. What granularity do you use for your screed? 2. Maybe you can do a video where you are actually showing how hard screed should be, by making a small patches of screed and scraping it, hammering it and destroying it so we can see what to expect on how good screed looks like. There are almost no videos on youtube about it this and I think this is important. I guess you can make a nice youtube video on this. I have no idea how to tell if my screed is hard enough (or even too much hard because I hear some people are saying that screed should not be hard as stone) 3. Since the screed is harder the more you compress it, why don't you walk over it to compress it better. What I stamp it hard with my feet it gets really hard. Is this good thing to do? 4. I can not accomplish that top part of screed (2mm layer) is hard as the part under it. The top 2mm of my screed are not ideally even and they get a bit brittle when you scrape them with a tools. I also don't know how to really fill all these little holes on the top. Can you make a close up view on how you are making the finishing surface of the screed so we can see how actually you surface looks like? Thanks man. Once again your help would really mean a lot to me.
I will try to do these test you say I have been wanting to do a few diffrent test on plasterers and other things , not sure if you have seen our how to screed a floor = ua-cam.com/video/Ci2zUfviDTo/v-deo.html We dont do loads of screeding but next time i am doing a job i will for sure record it and get some close ups of it, yes the more you compact it the harder it will get. Also after you lay a floor if you give it a few mist coats of water to slow the curing down it should get harder. our sand would be at its biggest 4mm. The job you are doing is very hard to do but what i would recommend would be take of any lumpy high areas any thing that is like 6mm fill with that cement as you where doing then for the lower areas i would get a high quality 2 part liquid screed and fill those up ad then if wanted you could give the whole floor a 2mm coat to make it look better Before all these steps though i would seal the areas with an sbr coat to help bond it all down so it wont lift up after it dries Hope this was a helpful reply buddy and be sure to have the bell button on to be notified of new content and hopefully your suggestion video :)
@@macplastering Great man, thank you very much :). You reply is very helpful. I was actually thinking the same thing as you said with liquid screed. By "liquid screed" do you also imply self leveling compounds? I was thinking to use them. I watched you how to screed video several times. I subscribed with the bell! Looking forward to your next videos :)
@@lazarsjojic yes sorry the liquid screeds i would use have self leveller in them I have found the 2 part stuff the best not only is it better to work with but better ad easier to mix as its pour in the liquid then the powder cant go wrong :) Thanks for subbing buddy means a tone the support :)
Great Tutorial. The Ancient Celts Use To Bury A Sacrifice In The Foundations Of A New Building To Give It Strength. However Had They Had Access To Modern Building Methods I Don't Think They'd Have Done This.
Good question you can add a little quarry dust or fibers for more strength or sbr in the mix or all three but no stone the stone is in the sub floor mix a concrete mix screed is just really sharp sand and cement as seen here mixed simi dry for ease of use, this would be a concrete mix = ua-cam.com/video/s8-8Hoa9-0o/v-deo.html and this is how i would get that finished = garage floor = ua-cam.com/video/47JCOgNjCTQ/v-deo.html but for in a home screed - ua-cam.com/video/1z5CBoDO1AQ/v-deo.html
@@macplastering really well thanks dude, the company and customers were very happy with the finish on the rendering and the screed👌. Thanks for your time and advice dude.
So so done a small clip on sponge float method on skimming still got my coving vids to upload n prob won't b on a roof till the light nights come in again so hopefully il get plenty of footage then
@@onpointplastering If you go on the video there should be a button under it says share then open it at the bottom of it you can copy link and then share it 'ps top of tha morning to ya ;)
Good video. I found you from a comment you left on “Michael Builds” UA-cam channel (making a concrete counter top). By the way, are you Scot? Your accent was a little difficult for me, a Yank in California. Cheers
Hey DanielinLaTuna Thanks for the comment mate much appreciated this mix his how we finish our floors here in Ireland inside our homes have a video on how thats done called "how i screed a floor" Yes Michael has a great video there did a great job on that concrete Thanks again and have a great Day :)
Agree that this is good info but the videography needs improvement. A bit too close-up now, and water should be added with a cup instead of "tipping a pail". Spinning the camera around in the room is bad form. Thanks for the try. I won't vote good or bad because I think you can do a better job.
Thanks for Your input I would rather check my gear when the mixer is of all the same as its safer for me the machine can be changed my arm not so easy but yes the lead could go on fire like that , have seen it so great point brother stay safe out there :)
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
How I do it on the FLOOR screeding of course === ua-cam.com/video/Ci2zUfviDTo/v-deo.html
Never too old to learn, been building for 40+ years and just laid my best ever screed. Thanks for the video, I’ve always had the mix too wet before.
Nice one mate glad to have helped you some :):) Yes wet stuff seems like it would be best but the dry mix is the best and easiest way to go
Respect -Mac is legit - if you're a new plasterer listen to this guy.
Thank you buddy much appreciate the support :)
Thanks
Anytime my friend always here and very much appreciate your support 🙏
Thanks for this. I'm going to screed my kitchen extension. Wish me luck.
Best of luck buddy hope it works out great for you , we do have few screeding videos also if you need a look but good luck Darren
Great video and not many on you tube on how to mix semi dry. Thanking you for taking the time to make this video very helpful to me
So glad its helped you mate =) always here for any qustions or ideas ect and thanks for watching and commenting mate
Really useful. I've been making screed far too wet. Thanks for the advice 👍
Yea wetter is harder to get nice mate crazy you commented on this video as I sit here pricing up a screed job haha
@@macplastering 😂👍
Solved my problem(over mixing)thanks,Your a bloody LEGEND!!!
Hi Danzo buddy oh yes screed is hard to do and hard to mix but if the mix is nice it can be a lot easier Glad this helped you mate :)
You win the trophy for Utube's most magnificent mixer!! 🏆
oh YEA thank you Jimmy :)
Brilliant video buddy, thank you for the help!
No problems :)
I wish i had seen this vdo yesterday
Just magnificent
Oh where you doing a floor mate ? have a few on the way i lay them also
@@macplastering I am a DIYER, did around 30 sq mtr floor garden path/ramp - it was my first time so didnt know the water ratio it was a nightmare levelling it bcz it was too wet.
m gona do another 30 sq mtr area soon with your techniques. hopefully it 'd be easier this time will let you know.
near Dunstable
@@sidjohnson1776 This mix is for inside I cant remember trying it outside but yes let me know how you get on as long as you have good solid bed to work over I would think it should come up well let me know buddy wishing you the best
Mac .... When patching floors, what do use to replace the plastic damp proof that the plummer has shredded, before putting down screed?
If you can gently cut back further and add a little more try over lap it you can also sbr under it try or something that can seal the subfloor
@@macplastering thanks mac
@Roy1 anytime buddy also could add sbr and water proffer to mix to help prevent any issues . There should also be a dpm under the sub floor... when doing our own there is dpm under the sub and I will do more again on top of sub floor
Looking to lay a garden concrete slab 5x3 meters
Dry or wet?
20mm chippings are to big for semi dry one?
Cheers
Be gard to finish but could be mixed that way I have another video on mixing wet concrete
I have a flat external roof patio that has fibreglass and decothane (liquid plastic) coating. I want to lay a screed to fall to stop the pooling. What prep would you do over the coating, fibre-mesh, DPM etc ? or would you strip back to original concrete? cheers.
If you could do a dpm would be great should stop any water getting right through what depth do you have to play with ?
Hope you got on well with it bud
Hello mate,
I am looking for dry mix ratio. I have new plumbing pipework down (Insulated qualplex) and now need to fill the dug channels.
What would you suggest?
All the best!
I would do this mix, mate, possibly add some sbr in too
@@macplastering You're a top bloke!
Thank you for the speedy reply!
@@greavsiethespur nonproblems mate have a vid on patching up tracks on floors if it's helpful.
@@macplastering Top dollar! I'll give the channel a look to find the very one! I appreciate your help!
@greavsiethespur no problems let me know if need link but think title is patching tracks on screed floor
thanks suprised how dry it is.it sure makes sense though.il be confident enough if i cum across a job to do.cheers u sure do have a lot of educational videos
Thank you mate glad its helped some for sure if you ever have a job on t just watch a few of these for a refresh , screeding is hard old work
I have to screed over an old painted concrete floor (I'll prime it first) and thickness would go from 3 to 45mm - would this mix work?
The 3 mm would be very hard to get that to stay on we would put this gear down 3 inches at the norm how did you get on ? sorry for late reply been very ill
I have a slightly less difficult job with a wet room screed that, at its thinnest will be about 15mm thick. I have made a sample with 6 grams of fibres per litre of cement and 300 ml of SBR per litre of cement and 3 litres of sand per litre of cement. I cured it for 24 hours at 45C so I could test it quicker and it is already pretty tough. However, from all I have read the only solution for something 3 mm or less is an epoxy screed that costs a small fortune.
Great video - thanks for sharing!
I have a bumpy garage floor that I want to level off for garage flooring tiles. There is a 5-6” gradient back to front where it meets the driveway, so levelling compound is a no go.
Could you tell me, what’s the thinnest this kind of screed can be applied please?
Cheers!
The thinnest I have ever when was 10mm in places with no issues but I dont lots of preparation I bonded to floor with sbr added sbr to mix and also fibre's to help reinforce the screed , both floors where tiles one I would still see now and again and it has lasted very well , but if you plan on driving on it you might want something stronger than screed like a liquid concrete ?
mac plastering Thanks for the reply.
Yeah, thought as much. It’s not going to have to support a car (garage not long enough), but it’s probably still pushing it as it will probably be shallower than 10mm in most places.
Guess I’ll try and coax a floor screed to not run out of the front of the garage 😉
@@watty13 10mm is realy pushing things and if it dont bond or cracks you will be back to the start , what's down now is it concrete ?
mac plastering Yeah, was layed about 15 years ago... divots, and bumpy stoney surface now.
Do I give it a coat of pva priming prior to levelling, or whack it straight on? *quite dusty
@@watty13 floating screed should be laid around 65 to 75 mm thick a foating screed is on insulation and dpm = damp proof membrane, but this would be called a bonded floor witch would still be recommend to go 25 to 40 mm if this was my house and I really didn't have room to go higher but wanted to get it much more level I wouldl either get a suitable self leveller or if need to screed my plan of attack would be get that dust off brush t hover it until is as dust free as possible then I would do a say 5 to 1 mix 5 water 1 sbr and paint the whole floor a day before to seal that dust down then the next day when im ready for the mix I would have sbr in the mix bear in mind it will speed up setting time but add strength , there is other additives that can add strength sutch as fibres so I would get them in again they can and will making finishing that little harder but will act as a reinforcement to help reduce cracking so I have my mix read before I dump it out on the area I am about to start I will again paint that area with pure sbr and go over it while its wet so the mix will set with it giving the best bond possible bond , another step I might think of is scoring the floor some but it might cause more dust and mess that it could help , Screeding is no easy task for sure and this type of floor is very challenging but hope I have gave some good points for you do think over , you might be safe doing a small test area somewhere to test strength and bond before going at the whole job ? again hope this is helpfull mate
Hi, what would the minimum depth be (if there is one)? & what is best bonding agent? I was thinking of using undiluted PVA glue, I am in Uk - thanks Paul
I always try go 75mm about 3inches mate and i would use sbr its much stronger have a few how to screed floor video up if you need also mate
@@macplastering Hi, I was gonna use some self levelling compound but I’m not confident, I saw you video and hoped I could do it like this but my maximum hi/low point is around 12mm, what would you do then?
Sorry for late reply mate youtube hide about 50 comments on me in held for review box ? is only meant to go there is bad words in.... but yes so to answer you the thinnest I ever went was 10mm in places but I had used sbr on floor also in mix along with fibres to help give it good strength again this is really pushing the limit but its also why I done the extra's to help make it work and last
Nice video Mac instructions were clear, easy to follow
Cheers buddy hope to crack a few more decent videos out like this in the next few months
Would it be ok to lay this mix 20mil to 55 mil over 2 metres
@@nialldoyle9406 where is it inside outside. ? What are you working over? Subfloor?
@@macplastering it’s over an exciting floor which is 50 mil off from one side to the other , over a 3 metre width
@@macplastering sorry it’s inside , granny flat Reno
what's on the floor now? I have done one that was 10mm over a solid floor but i bonded down with an sbr type glue and had fibers in the mix to make it stronger and reduce cracks but was deeper in places its recommended 3inches from google = The optimum thickness of a sand and cement bonded screed is 25-40mm
@@macplastering thanks for getting back to me, it’s a concrete floor
Great explanation!
Glad it was helpful! Hope your having a great weekend
Could I ask, I’m porcelain tilling some existing concert in my back garden.. but the floor is uneven, maybe off by about 20mm. It’s only an area of 6m2 would this be adequate to lay initially to level before I cement the tiles over? Watched your video already great help, thanks mate..
The optimum thickness of a sand and cement bonded screed is 25-40mm so 20 is pushing it to the limit The lowest I have ever went on a job was 10mm but I compacted it real well was a strong mix in the fact i added fibers and sbr to mixes to help reduce the chances if it cracking and also sbr / bonded the floor i was going over with neat sbr that floor is now got tiles on it and has been ok for a good few years now , its one of them jobs it is risky but I done everything I could to make the best job possible , the floor i was going over was between 2 rooms one was 10mm in places lower so i needed to level them through for the tiles I was working over and existing screeded floor so i had a solid background what will you be working on top off my friend ?
mac plastering thanks for the reply!! Iv turned my hand at a host of diy jobs by watching videos like yours! It’s a concrete base already (I think it was previously a patio that was knocked down) and the one side is about 20mm lower.. I can always raise it by 20-30mm and even it towards the other side by 5mm say. Also as I’ll be laying a bed of mortar to lay the porcelain tiles on afterwards, so this could even put some size difference. just wondered whether it would keep for the laying of the tiles afterwards thank you for replying and hope you get the picture I’m trying to describe! 😆👍🏼
@@benprice2984 yes perfect picture mate.... by keep do you mean not set hard are the tiles heavy what thickness are they mate ? how deep of a bed of sand and cement mortar do you need?
mac plastering I was planning on doing the process of ‘screeding’ like in your video... levelling it off somewhat to about 20-25mm letting it dry then coming back and laying about 30mm of mortar and then laying the 20mm porcelain slabs! Thank you again for your guidance bud massively appreciated!
Sounds a good plan screed should be set in a day or two but you could lay a few boards down to spread the load out some where you are walking or just compact it real well when laying :) glad my info helped some buddy keep it touch and let me know how it turns out
Can I lay patio slabs on this mix?
I have seen the guys laying them with a wet mix mate and was talking to a guy who lays them says he uses sbr now in mix also to stop them popping especially for natural stone type, I think you could use this but the bond wouldn't be great unless it wet to help stick/bond
Hello great video. I want to do screed floors I'm my house, I won't be putting down any tiles. I'm interested in the fiber reinforced screed as I heard it's good for heavy traffic areas. What bonder should I use? Also when should the fibers be added? Also how thick should it be? Is 2 inches too thick?
75mm is best its around 3 inch's I add the fibers to the mix adding to the water will just make them stick in lumps and not spread out I also use sbr as a goof bonding it is also water proof hope this is helpful mate
@@macplastering yes thank you. Should I just use Sbr instead of water or should I mix it with the water phase?
@@ladysaw999 I mix mine in the water same amount to every bucket to keep the mixes even
Hi hope your well, if you had a small space, 1mx1.5m area, and didnt have access to a mechanical mixer, is it possible to mix that ratio by hand and use as screed? If so how would you advise to do the mix? Many thanks for the vids!
Hello mate doing good here hope you and your family are also, so yes it will be hard work I would do it with damp sand and add the cement then just mix by hand again this will be hard work much like I have done for this video - ua-cam.com/video/2x7LN0X1wi0/v-deo.html
@@macplastering we are good thanks, very much appreciate your response and advice, will give it a go and hopefully will go well!
Since its going over a bitumen based painted dpm, do you advise still using PVA primer or anything else first?
How think can you go mate ? sbr is the strongest bonding agent i know of to date
@@macplastering hi sorry just got what u meant!! I can't really go too thick, but I understand if unbonded need to be minimum 50mm?
Could i use screed on a stable floor as i only have 7cm available and the base is concrete?
3inches on a solid sub floor is normal mate i think you are just below that but if sub floor is sound it shouldn't be to bad you can add fibers to mix and sbr are you putting down ppm or is that already in the floor below?
@@macplastering thank you.
Hey mate could I use this for a outdoor step?its un even and needs taken up a bit at front.
what depth would you have mate ? might best best with concrete
mac plastering the step is concrete but it’s tilted bout 20 mil to front.i don’t need that much of tilt.its getting tiled over so need flat surface.what bout ready mixed screed in bag ?im a beginner so any advice is great
@@anitagoodsleep5330 Screed should be laid around 3 inch , I read online that The optimum thickness of a sand and cement bonded screed is 25-40mm, so at 20mm you will be below the recommend thinnest , I wonder is there a self leveller you could use instead mate I would just worry that screed that thin on a step could lift of on you as steps take a lot of punishment,
mac plastering good point.my mate said said I should box it off n do that or pour concrete.i just need something flat and sturdy for tiling.cheers for advice mate
@@anitagoodsleep5330 Yes that sounds a great way to go about it you could possibly sbr it 1st to give an even better bond mate
Great video and channel could I use plastering sand to mix the screed
I have done on a few times and had no problems but was mostly smaller jobs anything big i order premixed in mate
Hi great video just wanted to know if i can do this to replace dry rot on joists in living room? Joists are only 2x2 so would need to dig down and put insulation in
I wayne mate I have only ever done solid to solid floors I dont think there would be a big difference , might need to dig out and down ,depending what's down already ? I(f soil dig out to level needed whack down stones put in dpm insulation and then concrete then dpm again and screed . Before all that might need to block up any holes round side that joist went into with brick and possibly stop the screed and than filling the vents or if it wont matter block them 2 but would all depend on the build , could work out cheaper to do the timber again and add dpm under it ?
@@macplastering its customers decision mate to have the concrete floor put in, i havnt yet been to the property but he said from the looks of the subfloor it seems earthy, with stones etc, usually the subfloor is about 2ft below the joists so wondering if the last people who lived there filled it up with random soil an hardcore?? So would it need to be concreted first before unbonded screed or can i just do a floating screed like you did after putting DPM and insulation in?
@@waynedunne4838 I have always went over concrete mate , a house we dug out before had no jokes tiles then inder was 2inch screed then 2inch sand then soil / clay was a right paint to dig out took a few skips and hard work and a few broken spades haha but every floor I have ever done had concrete 1st , a brick layer told me best way is hardcore wacked down dpm down then concrete that then dpm again to be sure and insulation then the screed , done lotds of floors where builder want dpm then insulation and others want insulation them dpm , if you ask me it dont matter aslog as both are there I know I would prefer dpm under concrete then insulation then dpm and screed on that , the instulation in my eyes stays dryer that way wont smell when drying ether if this make sense ?
@@macplastering ok so how far down would you say to dig down and what thickness of each material should i lay at?
Hi mate sorry I thought i answered this but seen that i haven't
Have not done one in a while so trying to look back n my book to see how far we went down , I thin one room was down to how far down the founds where as we could not undermine them so this might be a good way for you to start mate.
So if you dig down untill you see the founds then measure up and see what you have to pay with , Read one time that the soil types can and will effect foundation depths ,clay soil , sandy soil , piled founds
So when you have it all out and clear they way i would go about it is measure down so you need from 65 to 75 mm for your screed
then what ever amount thickness of insulation you want in say another 65mm I think that is minimum required
next then would be the subfloor concrete witch minimum would be 4inches thick
so what ever is left you now need to fill with hardcore
best to whack down like 3 inch layers at a time to make sure it is well compacted and no voids I whack it down in a few diffrent directions also side to side up and down then around and at angle to angle over kill possibly but this is the 1st layer start as you main to go on, so i would use lose stone to fill some followed buy blinding its stone and quarry dust mix gets very very hard when compacted as the dust fills all voids very well when wacked locking it together.
I mark my sides where i need to come up to so i dont fill to high and end up with less concrete insulation or screed that i need remember you can always add some concrete up but not down same as screed so if you lower with stones than amid you can make it up on the next level with concrete , if your getting it ordered give them sizes they will work out how much needed get a skip and add 5 to 10% on depending how big the job is to make sure you dont run low and can dump rest if you did run out of screed never run it down into a slop but cut it of and either mix more or buy more to finish like this little demo - ua-cam.com/video/XuTdGEUoQz8/v-deo.html
These are the ways I would go about it
Hope this all helps and still here if need any more ideas mate
Great tutorial, even I could follow that nice one 👍
Hey Thank you so much haha this might actually be my best video yet ! Thank you again :)
mac plastering your welcome, and went detecting today and managed a real bucket lister, Bronze Age palstave axe head, video coming soon 👍
@@ThePhilandPam Top the morn to ya :) Wow that sounds class looking forward to the video I am hoping to get out soon haha haven't been out all year :)
And another awesome tutorial my very good friend. Have a great day.
Top of the morning to ya :) its a windy one here Thanks for the support mate :):)
@@macplastering Your very welcome my good friend and thank you.
Love you .Dios te bendiga .saludos desde argentina.
Thank you my friend bg charity video coming Out tomorrow if you can support it
Thanks for the video, what minimum thickness can this mix be laid at?
Cheers
Hi Martin mate what are you going over?
@@macplastering
Thanks for getting back to me..
I had the concrete laid today on the extension oversite. They've finished 15mm short of the dpc height as they didn't order enough! so now have 35mm to make up to finished floor height.. want to cut costs down.. roughly 20m2 to screed
Is the insulation down already mate ?
@@macplastering yes mate, 100mm of concrete on 100mm of insulation
@@martincraggs1162 I would recommend 3inches its about 75mm I have went as low as 10mm in places but bonded the subfloor and also had fibers in my mix with no issues but it was not easy and again would recommend about 3inches is best have you thought about a liquid screed ? it can leave a very nice finish also but might be expensive ?
Great vid. Could I replace the sand with quarry/grano dust (6mm-dust) in 4:1 ratio Or would you do 2:2:1 quarry dust : sharp sand : cement?
i have never tried that myself be good to test 1st before you do all out at somthing big mate
@@macplasteringthanks for the reply mate, good advice! Keep up the good work, some brilliant knowledge for us DIYers 👍
@@2penniesworth Thank you my friend and do keep in touch
Tried a small area 3:1:1 quarry/grano dust : sand : cement. Didn’t go as planned. I think with a semi dry mix the small stones in the dust made it harder to pull the straight edge accross the surface and leave a nice smooth finish. Ended up having at add a lot more water and change to a more concrete type mix to finish off.
Got 30sq/m left to do, so going to switch to 4:1 sharp sand : cement as per your vids.
@2penniesworth is it all inside m8? Yea Sharp sand is brilliant for it for sure
Question - where can i get Fibre for screed? wickes bnq?
I have seen for sale at b and q i use these ones on a video here - ua-cam.com/video/aAhzqqKg2nY/v-deo.html
Great advice thanks 😊
Thank you for watching and commenting nick mate
Can you send me any links to your cornice mould set up had a quick look couldn't find them if you don't mind cheers
Have very little vids up off it usually do it in situ and repair ect dont get a big pile of work with it to be honest but my setup would be a bench around 9 foot long if doing 8 foot runs will be doing some bench work soon making a few things ceiling rose and a cap to finish of that one i was running the other day
can i use this on a driveway
would be better with concrete a mix more like this = ua-cam.com/video/s8-8Hoa9-0o/v-deo.htmlsi=8nZ_txSj-qkZTAfn
Awesome video mate
thank you mate hope you and your family are doing well
@@macplastering you too fella 😷👍🏼
@@dingbattoast7446 thanks mate new videos here every Sunday
Which fine stones can you add?
Fine stone is best if you can get smaller than 10mm
Gritty sand the better
You can add fibers to but same as stone makes polishing floor a little harder
@@macplasteringthanks mate, what do you mean polishing? When you
Are floating it?
well both floating and polishing with the steel trowel this is how i do floors = ua-cam.com/video/1z5CBoDO1AQ/v-deo.html have older videos but this is the newest one also helpfully will be making a new one in future
how much amount of water?
Just a little it's a semi dry mix so just like the video I add it until its ready to much it will go all balls not nice to work with slow and steady
How many cement and sand? Whats the ratio?
Ratios are at the end of the video mate and during it
Hello mate, if I was to screed on top of an existing path ready for tiling would I pva before hand also should I add any liquid solution to the mix?
is it inside or outside buddy ?
@@macplastering outside
@@swldn I would power wash the thing all down , take all lose away then either sbr as you work so you are going over it wet and add some to the mix witch should help it get stronger , but if you have a good layer of thickness down it should be good and strong 3 inches plus , but concrete might be a better option for out side , thought screed will be neat to work with , Hope this helps mate
@@macplastering thanks for your advice !
@@swldn Not a bother man hope it goes well for you mate
Hey, quick question. Would you consider using this kind of screed for a shed base or would you use wet concrete?
Depends I think concrete would be stronger but is it a light shed for light stuff ? thing is even when we screed it always has a sub floor of concrete most imte the sub flor then insulation then plastic and screed on.... Oh mate if you ever come arcos a video we have done and think of a better title just let me know :)
@@macplastering cheers. Will do bud. How do u edit your videos? Also what camera do u use?
I have used so many cameras and software mate windows movie maker open shot camtisa you name it I proply used it and camreas cheap 30£ ones to dear sony and a go pro now the most with a jvc and sony back up something tells me 4k is needed but again would it matter would it make a difference ?
@@macplastering I used to be a photographer. Camera makes a huge diff. You need something with a decent iso. The better the iso the less light you need to get good quality in low light and cos your alway working in dark houses it might make a difference. Brighten up the shot. Little techniques like position the camera so the light from the window is shining where u want to film. New iPhones have brilliant cameras (I'm an android guy but my daughter has an iPhone and the cameras are way better)
So yeah if u spend on a genuine go pro (not cheap knock off) you'll get far better quality. Also having a flood light would help if it's dark. I know u probs don't wanna go that far just yet.
Then u can edit the videos a bit more "youtuby" to make them more instantly likable.
Dunno if you've ever watched "Chris fix" he is a car repair guy who developed a brilliant catchy style of videos. People watch them even if they have no intention of fixing their own car because his style is so watchable.
Makes it look so easy and shows you all the dos and don't in a fun way.
Might be worth watching and seeing if it's something you could apply to your videos. Might take some planning out. Imagine you hit it off on UA-cam tho. Cha ching.
Do you make a few quid from your videos as it stands?
Only seen this reply now mate sometimes I dont get notified from youtube. Thanks for the advice mate yes seen that guy the blue gloves :) to be honest i just dont know my style yet but i might get it when it lands on me like a pile of blocks get some but not very much as of yet and to get this stage has took real hard work in the videoing editing and at same time doing the job... if you ever get spare time mate pick your fav video of mine and tell me why I will try replicate those things :) also let me know what your thought are on the new stuff as it comes :)
What's the ideal amount of water? Let's say 20kg sand 5kg cement and how much water?
Just like the video buddy I just do it by eye and feel especially as sand can be wet already so best to go this way
Great tip with the wet sand and hard balls. Crap that sounds bad but seriously you just earned a subscription. Thanks
Thanks for the sub! much appreciated mate
Excellent. Thanks
Thanks for watching and commenting 😊
Alright dude, hope all is well! I've been tasked to render and screed a swimming pool. I'm fine on the rendering but haven't screedes for years, is there any tips or advice you could give me. The pool getting a liner over it so it doesn't have to be bang on but I obviously want to do the best job possible.
Kind regards
George Allen
Hi mate yes we got a few how to screed videos on the channel if you wanna hit them up its the way i go around it from start to finish
Think you could use your refina megamixer for making the screed.
Defo but after a hard few days It might feel the pain a little
have a few videos of me making some screed with both the electric and petrol mixing drills not sure ya seen them but defo this would be stronger for it
@@jamesgrant514 Oh i see yea man a few buckets here and there should be fine just wouldn't make a habit of it as it will punish her :):)
Aye it’s for practice in my garage. It’s mostly skimming work that am doing the now.
Is that a refina box level your using. At the end
another great vid! so ive worked out i need to mix 0.35sqm to get my bathroom up to level. thats a fair amount of sand and cement, im working alone. do you have any tips on mixer size and amount to put in mixer each time?im able to get the mixer in the bedroom right next to the bathroom and i can dump the screed mix into it from outside the bedroom. also is it best to buy the sand and cement and mix yourself vs 35 bags of it ready mixed? thanks again!
I like ready mixed the best a truck / lorry can come and dump it off ,so i cover up ground with plastic and get it their then bring in with a wheel barrow, If i have to mix for small areas I do it also outside to stop the dust then pour into the barrow and wheel it in its hard work but is the best way to do it as keeps your lungs safe mixing outside, this mixer hold I thin 4 or 5 buckets for screed witch will give you a nice big barrow full , advantages of getting it delivered is out can tell them what amount you need the mix and deliver it so you just need to get it in an laid down
@@macplastering thanks again! so its finally screed day on sunday for me, thickness is 50mm one end, 100mm the other, 2.4x1.6m area, about 0.3 cubic metres. its going on top of concrete, should i use some kind of bonding agent to get the screed to bond to the concrete? or maybe brush in some mix into the dampened concrete? thanks.
@@jamskof have you got dpm under concrete mate ?
@@macplastering no, ive only ever been told to use some kind of bonding agent. theres going to be waterproofing done on top of the screed as its a bathroom. in oz they use strips that are about 100mm wie that cover all joins, and then a waterproof paint on all wet areas
@@jamskof The dpm s to stop damp coming up mate here we have to use dpm and insulation most times the dmp is under the concrete then another layer with the insulation to be safe then screed but if you cant then for sure a bonding agent will do no harm at all keeping the floor down
Thanks for the video. How soon can you add floor screed to fresh concrete?
if you have all you dpms in the concrete straight away as long as it can be walked on if you need to add dpms still you will want to let most of the water dry out 1st as you dont want to trap it in
Great video dude
Thanks buddy :)
Super interesting and great Tutorial ❤️ Happy Sunday ❤️
Thanks for the support Yvonne hope your having a great Sunday :):)
Alright Mac, after priming a concrete surface how long should you wait to begin screeding?
I would go on straight away mate might be best to paint the areas you hitting 1st if that makes sense
Immediately it needs to be done.
Hi mate, great video 👍 might sound a stupid question but when you say 4:1 sand and cement would that be four buckets of sand and one bucket of cement for a bigger mix?
Yes mate thats what i do :)
@@macplastering great mate cheers
No problems Jim mate better to ask a question and feel silly for a second than no ask and be silly forever :) but in all honesty mate there is no silly question's always here if you need
@mac plastering great saying mate will keep that in mind. Cheers mate has reassured me a bit got my first floor coming up 👍
They are hard work mate always get my back tight
I remember a builder telling me to put some bricks in the mix to break the balls in it, but wetting the sand 1st is the best I think if mixing a little bit throw in the sand and cement let it mix quickly and straight in the barrow
Yes sae here mate as soon as its ready bang it out and into the floor :)
Not the best in terms of production... but this is AWESOME for content. Thanks - I feel better about my project tomorrow - cheers!
Hi buddy thanks... yes this would be sower than a larger mixer or getting ordered in ready to use but for small jobs its good :):) Thanks again hope you get to subscribe for more
Very cool. I have never heard of it.
How we finish our floors inside I think that in the US you guys do concrete and finish it relay well Here it is stones pounded down then plastic and then concrete the insulation possible more plastic and the screed finish
I'm going to try this. I only have and are of 1.5m x 2.5m. It is for outside.
Hope you get on well Rose
What kind of sand is used ?
Great question the sand I use is called sharp sand it is very coarse , but i have used a coarse plastering , hope you subscribe for more :)
I ask you because here in Mexico we use sand and gravel (crushed hillstone) we mix sand, gravel, and portland cement, empty the firm, and then we have to give it the finish with cement diluted in water and hit it with the trowel, and I see in the video that when going battering is already polishing
@@juanluissalazar9734 Sounds very interesting way of doing would love to see it being done buddy.
Hi Mac, great video as always. I'm considering screeding the entire floor in my bungalow, as we have taken down all the internal walls and the floor levels differ between rooms. The floor area is 44m². I have not attempted something like this before but I am keen to try things and learn skills for future. Am I crazy? I wanted to ask in particular about your method of levelling the edges of the room first (C-shape). Would this be a problem for such a large space, as my edges may be too dry to work on by the time I have got round the whole perimeter? Any suggestions/advice would be much appreciated! Cheers
Hi Chris mate doing a large area is very hard and sore on the back and could be costly if things dont go right for you mate can I ask are you putting walls back in ?
and are you going to order in ready mixed gear or mix your own ?
@@macplastering Thanks for your reply, yes, we are putting walls back in but in more of an open plan fashion. If I went ahead with DIYing it then I think I would mix my own? That way if it takes forever I'm not stuck with several tonnes of going off screed. Do you think it would it be advisable to plan some day joints at sensible places, in order to take my time a bit more/save my back!?
Cheers
@@chrismetcalfe4827 I would think if you put the walls back in it would give great places to stop as when screeding it is good to work of the bottom of the door frames that should all be set at the same level as eatch other. Mixing is hard it would be faster to have it ordered , the way if I was you would be have walls all in door frames set to height start in the smallest room , most mixing companies will give smaller amounts so you could give them measurement for that and they will work it out and add 10% just encase . But if you are heart set on mixing again start in small area give your self a chance at it ,youll get the feel of the hard work and the skills needed to get a nice finish thats level I am not trying to put you off but letting you know that it is not easy and i find bigger room harder to do in both skill and labour aspects , I will try make a Little video to show how i go about larger area. do you have to floor concreted and preped already as in insulation dpm ect ??
@@macplastering mac plastering under the existing wibbly wobbly screed is a concrete slab, uninsulated. Ideally I'd put some insulation in there but there is not much clearance with the front door, and ceiling is quite low. Certainly will be putting a DPM under new screed, whether it's a DIY or professional job :^) Great to have advice from someone such as yourself who really knows their stuff. I like the idea of starting in smallest room (bathroom) and going from there. I plan to self level afterwards to get a final finish for hard flooring. If I mix myself I was gonna borrow a mixer and have another pair of hands mix while I lay (that's probably a given). Thanks again for the advice 👍👍👍
Great video. The "water" in your bucket looks milky white. Have you added some sort bonding agent?
most likely buddy i would say its sbr but if you do use sbr be careful as will set the gear faster
You do great work
:):) Thank you :):)
Hi man, great video. You really look like a guy who knows what's he's doing. Great explanations.
I am trying to do leveling of screed in apartment. It's the old building made in 60s. And screed is done in good quality, but it's very uneven. I have a difference in 3cm in one room. I wanted to level it with Mapei Topcem. This is basically just like regular cement but just on "steroids". You can do whole screed with it, or you can lay it over existing screed to level it up. I made a small patch of screed just to tested it and now am not sure how good that is. So I would like to check with you few things please.
If you can answer these help that would be great help for me.
1. The granularity of sand I'm using is of size 0-4 mm. What granularity do you use for your screed?
2. Maybe you can do a video where you are actually showing how hard screed should be, by making a small patches of screed and scraping it, hammering it and destroying it so we can see what to expect on how good screed looks like. There are almost no videos on youtube about it this and I think this is important. I guess you can make a nice youtube video on this. I have no idea how to tell if my screed is hard enough (or even too much hard because I hear some people are saying that screed should not be hard as stone)
3. Since the screed is harder the more you compress it, why don't you walk over it to compress it better. What I stamp it hard with my feet it gets really hard. Is this good thing to do?
4. I can not accomplish that top part of screed (2mm layer) is hard as the part under it. The top 2mm of my screed are not ideally even and they get a bit brittle when you scrape them with a tools. I also don't know how to really fill all these little holes on the top. Can you make a close up view on how you are making the finishing surface of the screed so we can see how actually you surface looks like?
Thanks man. Once again your help would really mean a lot to me.
I will try to do these test you say I have been wanting to do a few diffrent test on plasterers and other things , not sure if you have seen our how to screed a floor = ua-cam.com/video/Ci2zUfviDTo/v-deo.html
We dont do loads of screeding but next time i am doing a job i will for sure record it and get some close ups of it,
yes the more you compact it the harder it will get.
Also after you lay a floor if you give it a few mist coats of water to slow the curing down it should get harder.
our sand would be at its biggest 4mm.
The job you are doing is very hard to do but what i would recommend would be take of any lumpy high areas any thing that is like 6mm fill with that cement as you where doing then for the lower areas i would get a high quality 2 part liquid screed and fill those up ad then if wanted you could give the whole floor a 2mm coat to make it look better Before all these steps though i would seal the areas with an sbr coat to help bond it all down so it wont lift up after it dries
Hope this was a helpful reply buddy and be sure to have the bell button on to be notified of new content and hopefully your suggestion video :)
@@macplastering Great man, thank you very much :). You reply is very helpful. I was actually thinking the same thing as you said with liquid screed. By "liquid screed" do you also imply self leveling compounds? I was thinking to use them.
I watched you how to screed video several times. I subscribed with the bell! Looking forward to your next videos :)
@@lazarsjojic yes sorry the liquid screeds i would use have self leveller in them I have found the 2 part stuff the best not only is it better to work with but better ad easier to mix as its pour in the liquid then the powder cant go wrong :) Thanks for subbing buddy means a tone the support :)
Great Tutorial. The Ancient Celts Use To Bury A Sacrifice In The Foundations Of A New Building To Give It Strength. However Had They Had Access To Modern Building Methods I Don't Think They'd Have Done This.
what did they sacrifice ? probably no just use more cement lol
@@macplastering Horses heads apparently,just saw this today www.joe.ie/life-style/artefacts-the-liberties-675444
don't you include aggregate?
Good question you can add a little quarry dust or fibers for more strength or sbr in the mix or all three but no stone the stone is in the sub floor mix a concrete mix screed is just really sharp sand and cement as seen here mixed simi dry for ease of use, this would be a concrete mix = ua-cam.com/video/s8-8Hoa9-0o/v-deo.html and this is how i would get that finished = garage floor = ua-cam.com/video/47JCOgNjCTQ/v-deo.html but for in a home screed - ua-cam.com/video/1z5CBoDO1AQ/v-deo.html
how you can make video with distrubing camera cap.....?????
Haha sorry but yes its there always improving our camera skills Thanks for watching buddy
I will try y best to remake this video
Thx
Hi buddy no problems always here if you need some help and ideas :)
Alright Mac, can you give me a hand calculating the amount of sharp sand and cement I'd need for a 50mm screed over 28m² concrete floor
I would order it in mate ready mixed and tell them guys the measurement's they do it all for you
just sounds like a good load to be mixing and laying mate
@@macplastering cheers for getting back to me mate, unfortunately I've not that option, I've got someone mixing up for me though.
how did you get on mate ?
@@macplastering really well thanks dude, the company and customers were very happy with the finish on the rendering and the screed👌. Thanks for your time and advice dude.
Thanx bro brilliant
Hey buddy gad it is helpful :):) Thank for the support and ideas :)
So good Thank you ++++++++1
Hi Lola thanks for the support my friend :)
Great vid mac good info m8
Hey buddy cheers :) hows the roofing/plastering vids coming?
So so done a small clip on sponge float method on skimming still got my coving vids to upload n prob won't b on a roof till the light nights come in again so hopefully il get plenty of footage then
@@onpointplastering Drop me links when ya upload buddy yea probs best not to be on the roof until you can see better and less risk of ice SAFTY 1st :)
@@macplastering erm how do i send links or find them to related vids lol
@@onpointplastering If you go on the video there should be a button under it says share then open it at the bottom of it you can copy link and then share it 'ps top of tha morning to ya ;)
Good video. I found you from a comment you left on “Michael Builds” UA-cam channel (making a concrete counter top). By the way, are you Scot? Your accent was a little difficult for me, a Yank in California. Cheers
Hey DanielinLaTuna
Thanks for the comment mate much appreciated this mix his how we finish our floors here in Ireland inside our homes have a video on how thats done called "how i screed a floor" Yes Michael has a great video there did a great job on that concrete Thanks again and have a great Day :)
Have a good day
Hope your well :)
This surprised me. I thought you have it runny like milkshake 😂 so gravity levels it.
This changes everything. It means you can screed in sections
Just about to do my 17sq meter kitchen. Not sure if to use this method or buy bags of screed and just add water
Like self leveller I have a few videos up where i show how i do floor screeds mate in detail
Here we can get it in by the tonne ready made just get it in and down
Sounds a big job mate yes you can break it up in places
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
:) thanks
Fuck ive been putting to much water and is a nightmare to pull back...
I find it hard to finish when to wet myself find a semi dry mix easy to work and get nice and level glad this might have helped you mate :)
Agree that this is good info but the videography needs improvement. A bit too close-up now, and water should be added with a cup instead of "tipping a pail". Spinning the camera around in the room is bad form. Thanks for the try. I won't vote good or bad because I think you can do a better job.
Always trying to improve thanks for your words my friend
Is no one else thinking never start mixer full. And unwind that extension lead
Thanks for Your input I would rather check my gear when the mixer is of all the same as its safer for me the machine can be changed my arm not so easy but yes the lead could go on fire like that , have seen it so great point brother stay safe out there :)
The biggest problem If it is not wash properly.
The sand or mixer ?
@@macplastering The sand If it is not and river wash. It has to be washed. Otherwise there is just Plastering sand
@@stewartmckay9830 Here our bags are washed plastering sand
You dont want a wet mix doesnt help if you have a wet screeder i lay 120m2 a day and have for 15 years this guy is pants
@DianeSeymour what you like a wet mix???