Reversed the motor wire and that seemed to work but it’s not behaving like it used to. Wheels are spinning when not even pulling the trigger and the channel two setting keeps going back to reverse every time I switch the transmitter back on
Some escs that auto calibrate are sensitive like that. Try to adjust throttle trim a little bit so it doesn't start when you turn it on. Then turn it off and on again to recalibrate with the new trim, and see if it works out.
Hey, difficult to comment on, without being in front of the car. But you mentioned moving the timing of the motor, that will impact top speed without a doubt. Also you mention having to reverse the throttle using your transmitter, you could leave the transmitter setting as standard and simply switch the wires from the motor to the ESC. Check your transmitter for the end point limit adjustment, also your ESC, you might need to go through the throttle calibration sequence, hope to see some improvements for you 😊😊best wishes 😊
Switch the direction on the transmitter then re calibrate the esc. If that does t work then like other have said you can always turn the diffs upside down
get some contact rc foams on it to mitigate ballooning of the tyres.. also for speed runs a one way bearing instead of a diff in the front helps it not swap ends when braking from a high speed
You will be shorting that motor out with that heatsink as it over hangs the bell. That would be the issue i imagine. I cut my heatsink down to eliminate this.👍🏼😎
I just picked up a 63T and a bunch of different sized motor pinions from Super Rajikon. I am not sure about that issue unless you swapped the motor wires. More of a nitro guy a bit new to the electric scene.
Youve turned the timing ring on the motor the wrong way, resulting in too much torque and more reverse. Revert the wiring changes and put the motor back to stock timing
I switched the motor wires around but the transmitter and receiver started playing up. Wheels just spinning on their own. Swapped it out with another set I had.
@rctamiyaaddict4687 If you went to the other side of zero and there was no difference, it really might just be gear mesh in the end. Spinning on way drives it in closer , spinning the other, drives it apart. I found lifting the endbell with my finger straight up even when everything was tight flexed the chassis just enough for a better mesh. So I stuck foam under it.
Go back to the beginning. Reset the controller, put the wires back from the motor to the esc. It’s something you’ve done wrong. Refer to the manual, make sure the motor is wired correctly to the esc, then start fiddling with the controller.
@@rctamiyaaddict4687did you reset your TX programming to zero everything out? Disconnect the motor and reset your programming for the model. Reconnect and try again.
I agree, reverse the motor wires and put your throttle direction back the way it was.
Reversed the motor wire and that seemed to work but it’s not behaving like it used to. Wheels are spinning when not even pulling the trigger and the channel two setting keeps going back to reverse every time I switch the transmitter back on
You could try, putting new batteries in transmitter, then recalibrate end points???
Replaced the batteries now switch over to a different transmitter and receiver set.
Some escs that auto calibrate are sensitive like that. Try to adjust throttle trim a little bit so it doesn't start when you turn it on. Then turn it off and on again to recalibrate with the new trim, and see if it works out.
Hey, difficult to comment on, without being in front of the car. But you mentioned moving the timing of the motor, that will impact top speed without a doubt. Also you mention having to reverse the throttle using your transmitter, you could leave the transmitter setting as standard and simply switch the wires from the motor to the ESC. Check your transmitter for the end point limit adjustment, also your ESC, you might need to go through the throttle calibration sequence, hope to see some improvements for you 😊😊best wishes 😊
Thanks for taking your time to comment, some great advice there. Hopefully I’ll getting running smoothly again soon.
Hope you get it fixed! I see a ton of helpful comments and I think you already know the solution.
I hope so too
It looks like a lot of people gave you the solution already. I'm looking forward to the speed run video!
Trying to work through it. Did a test run but wasn’t running with enough room to get up to speed.
@@rctamiyaaddict4687 These things can go fast. I got mine fast, but I had to lower it and put some major spring tension to make it stick to the road.
Switch the direction on the transmitter then re calibrate the esc. If that does t work then like other have said you can always turn the diffs upside down
Thank you
get some contact rc foams on it to mitigate ballooning of the tyres.. also for speed runs a one way bearing instead of a diff in the front helps it not swap ends when braking from a high speed
Foams are going on next 👍🏻
You will be shorting that motor out with that heatsink as it over hangs the bell. That would be the issue i imagine. I cut my heatsink down to eliminate this.👍🏼😎
Interesting, thank you.
I just picked up a 63T and a bunch of different sized motor pinions from Super Rajikon. I am not sure about that issue unless you swapped the motor wires. More of a nitro guy a bit new to the electric scene.
Going to have a further look at the motor as the issue started after I messed around with it.
Youve turned the timing ring on the motor the wrong way, resulting in too much torque and more reverse.
Revert the wiring changes and put the motor back to stock timing
I’ll have to give that a go.
Factory reset the remote and reciver.
I use the same brand remote and reciver as you...imho not worth the money.
Just switch them over to another set and seems to be working ok again
Several suggestions here, i hope you found out
You could reverse the diff's 😉 Thats easy on TT02
I switched the motor wires around but the transmitter and receiver started playing up. Wheels just spinning on their own. Swapped it out with another set I had.
Is it an adjustable timing end bell on that motor ?? If so, you may want to go the same degress on the other side of zero.
Yeah I messed around with it but put it back the way it was
@rctamiyaaddict4687 If you went to the other side of zero and there was no difference, it really might just be gear mesh in the end. Spinning on way drives it in closer , spinning the other, drives it apart. I found lifting the endbell with my finger straight up even when everything was tight flexed the chassis just enough for a better mesh. So I stuck foam under it.
I wish I could be more help.
You been helpful buddy. Thank you.
Go back to the beginning. Reset the controller, put the wires back from the motor to the esc. It’s something you’ve done wrong. Refer to the manual, make sure the motor is wired correctly to the esc, then start fiddling with the controller.
Yes, there’s a puzzle to sort out. Thank you.
You've put the rear diff in backwards, I did it the other day too lol
I’ll have to check that out. Thank you.
Did you try another rx and tx
Might have to switch out the transmitter and receiver
Reverse motor cabels . Had same issue
The solved that problem but others occurred later.
Reverse the motor wiring you never know 👍
That worked, but other stuff is happening now 🤷♂️
@@rctamiyaaddict4687did you reset your TX programming to zero everything out? Disconnect the motor and reset your programming for the model. Reconnect and try again.
Are thouse red wheels aluminium?
Not too sure what the material is but I think so.
@@rctamiyaaddict4687 where did you buy them?
There Frastrax from Sussex Model Centre
rebind the esc with your remote controller
Thank you. Will be looking into that when I give the car a complete overhaul.
You've put the motor back together 180⁰ out
Should never of touched the motor 🤦🏼♂️