MGB Roadster Windscreen Frame Removal and Glass Fitting: An in depth guide
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- Опубліковано 13 вер 2024
- Please consider joining the channel for more racing and DIY videos: / @davidrussellwilks
A how to video showing how to remove the windscreen frame from an MGB and replace the windscreen glass. Unfortunately the later part of the video showing how to re-fit the frame was lost, so I will re-shoot this when I next do the job.
Any comments or questions are always welcome, one tip when removing the frame is to remove the covers at the top of the door opening to allow you to see the legs of the frame as you refit it.
Big thanks to my sponsors for 2019, www.schroth.com for the fantastic Flexi 2x2 harness; highly recommended. www.bg-racing.c... for the set up equipment and www.opieoils.co... for all the lubricants and brake fluids etc
#MGB #WindscreenReplacement #ClassicCars
David, these are hands-down the best videos anywhere for showing how to do all sorts of tasks on the MGB. Thanks for making them
Many thanks David, delighted to hear you are finding the videos useful. I'm hoping to make some more soon, it's been a bit cold and wet in the UK for the last few weeks.
In my experience with 21 MGB restorations, the windshield glass is one of the hardest tasks to complete due to the difficulty of installing the bottom seal. Outstanding video and presentation. From California USA.
Yes, the bottom seal is very hard to fit, luckily I could re-use mine. It probably took me around 30 minutes just to get those two end parts back in again!
Fantastic tutorial!, thanks for sharing. I was hoping to see part two when you try to fit it back on the car...
Many thanks for your message, I was very disappointed that the refitting part of the video was lost, it took around 2 hours and turned into quite a pain. If I get the chance over winter I will re-shoot it.
Fantastic video explaining simply/clearly how to complete a very tricky job
Many thanks Stephen! Glad it was helpful!
To say this job is one a lot of owners don't like is a bit of an understatement. I did it once with a lot of help from a friend who had done it a few times. If I ever have to do it again I think I should rather slit my wrists.
This was my second attempt on my own Tad, the first couple of times I had a professional to help me. Having the roll cage definitely helps when re-installing and no covers helps too. Getting it back in took around 2 hours as I couldn't get the bolts started on the passenger side.
@@davidrussellwilks If it only took you two hours to get it back in you did well my friend ! It took me and my buddy a complete day to do the whole job and we were both toast after.
@@tadholtz3757 It was quite literally 2 hours for one bolt, the rest went back together fairly easily, I was using the original seal on the lower part of the frame that does help too...
What a fantastic video I really enjoyed it as with all your videos they are very well explained they’re very clear and they are the best MGB videos anywhere on UA-cam thank you very much
Many thanks for your very kind message Peter, delighted to hear that you are enjoying the videos.
Thank you 1000 times for making this videos
Man...you made a very good and informative video. I have a 65 roadster and followed this step by step. Not a simple as it looks in your presentation however I appreciated the foundation! I've restored 2 x windshields, seals etc and the common most frustrating issue was the broken upper left bolt removing the frame from the car body. According to others this is very very common! Also the screws can be supremely stubborn to remove, good ol tap and drill was required. Thanks again, I look forward to your next clip!!
Thanks for your message Aaron, I changed the screen a few years ago and it was certainly harder on a screen that hadn't been touched for a while. Having new screws in there that had all been greased made the job a lot easier the second time around. The screen usually only last 1 or 2 seasons in my car before it gets too many stone chips or cracks. I will re-shoot at some point to show the fitting procedure too. Did you manage to get your screen fitted ok?
Gday David
Per the flag, I’m residing in Alberta. The temps here are sub zero at this time and I’ve no heating in the garage.....therefore won’t attempt refit of screen until spring. I’m going to take the dash out for my own reasons to make the job easier. I can’t even fit a wrench in between the dash and body to get to the top screen bolt. Spring/summer is going to be a busy time!
@@davidrussellwilks Gday David....we finally have 1/2 decent weather here in Calgary, anything above 10C is appreciated at this point in time. Just providing you an update as to the windshield fitting I carried out myself today. The job went well, thank goodness the dash was out of the way. I wrestled with the lower "curled" seal, used string to peal it out progressively and poking it toward the bonnet with plastic tools as it slowly "settled" into place. Installing the bottom bolts at first was key to enabling leverage to align and compress the new seal down to insert and screw in the top bolts. Careful use of some large C clamps was a must to compress the seals to align holes as well. Tomorrow I'll tidy up all wiring and start refitting the dash and instruments. All in it took a decent 3 hours doing this all myself....I also recommend to anyone putting grease on the the brackets as well as bolts/holes
Cheers again
Aaron G
@@AaronG303 I do think with the correct plastic tools the lower seal isn't too bad. I used copious amounts of screenwash to act as a lubricant and it did settle fairly easily. It took me four hours to refit mine (one very frustrating bolt), how did you get on?
@@davidrussellwilks Gday David - windshield installed and its resisting any
leaks thanks.
Great video very comprehensive, looking forward to trying this with my car
Many thanks Brian, I will try and re-shoot the install procedure in October.
it took me 4 days to put that lower seal in place, that was one of the most difficult assembly i had to do.
It's an incredibly difficult job without the hook tool. I managed to slide one on once, took over four hours and I was bruised for days!
Most of us will have windscreens not 2 years after buildup but closer or even beyond 20 years. So these screws coming out are a much higher challenge IMO than you were facing. On refitting the rubber strip we have another video by John Twist . Still excellent video as always and near real time, no trickery to show off to viewers after the fact
How did they ever do this at the factory? It is so labor intensive. I have had glass shops turn me away when they saw it.
I imagine if the screen was fitted before the dashboard it would make the job a lot easier. The main problem with it is the access to the bolts.
excellent video as usual David
did not look so difficult after all. can imagen if the bottom screws would be stuck, then would take more time. why not replace the screws with stainless steel ones?
The frame screws are often a pain and one of the worst parts of the job. Using S/S screws would be a good idea.
@@davidrussellwilks i have prettymuch replaced all srews...on bumpers, liceneplate lights and other places that are outside with stainless ones. Never have problems with getting stuck:)
I will try to find some s/s screws when I take the screen out next. You are totally correct about the fittings that get wet. I put new zinc bolts on the car when I built it. After just 2 years they had all corroded/rusted. I started swapping them for titanium ones and have just about the whole car done now. I also use the anti seize paste on most fittings, it makes removal much easier and guarantees correct torque.
@@davidrussellwilks titanium is lighter, but not so easy to find places where to buy😅
Why would one not, just put a little dab of antiseize grease on the screws, to make easier in future?
Hi David, like many of the comments on here, I’ll add by saying yours is the best tutorial on UA-cam. Question: would you be able to replace my UK MGB Roadster screen for me? If so, could I get in touch re the price and location etc? Best, Nigel
Many thanks for your message Nigel, delighted to hear you are enjoying the videos. Unfortunately I don't carry out any work on other people's cars. Where in the UK are you based, I might be able to suggest a specialist for you. If the screen is damaged you may find it's covered by your insurance too.
I know the screen is a job a lot of people don't like, it's certainly worth having replacements for all the screws and fittings for the frame in advance as they often break when you remove them.
@@davidrussellwilks - cheers David, as I thought actually. I’m in Sheffield South Yorks and it would really be useful if you did know who could help. The big companies aren’t interested
Sorry for the late reply, I don't know a specialist up there that I could recommend. Is there a local MG club there, you might be able to find a recommendation through them?
Hi David, thank you for your videos, very instructive and enjoyable. Looking forward to next one very much.
I do have a question if I may bother you. I could not understand when you mention the gauges brand. I’d really appreciate if you would write it for me.
Many thanks and keep racing.
Many thanks for your message Victor, the speedometer and rev counter are both made by Smiths www.smiths-instruments.co.uk/classic, the speedo is a electronic one rather than the original mechanical type. The two smaller gauges oil/water and oil temperature gauge are both made by Farringdon Instruments in the UK www.farringdoninstruments.com/. My main reason to replace the mechanical gauges is that I have a data logger in the car and this can share the various sensor feeds with the digital gauges but not the mechanical ones, it did make the install a lot neater. Also, getting rid of the original speedometer drive cable makes removing the engine easier. One other slight benefit to me is that the roll cage in my car runs very close to the dashboard, the digital gauges are shallower and easier to fit.
Thank you sir. 👍🏻
Really appreciate your videos. I'm in the long term process of rebuilding an FIA MGB. Do you use the OE Triplex Glass or the standard glass on the track?
Thanks for your message Johnathan, I tend to use the cheaper glass. I find my screen only seems to last around 2-3 seasons until there are just too many stone chips and cracks. I had a bit of luck with the screen I fitted in the video, I ordered the cheaper glass from Moss but was sent the more expensive Triplex one. It will be interesting to see if it lasts any longer. I would recommend replacing all the corner brackets and screws when you build the screen frame up, it does make changing it easier next time.
David Russell-Wilks thanks for the quick response. Intend on changing all rubbers and screws. There’s quite a price difference between the standard and triplex glass so your feedback is really appreciated. Thank you.
@@jonathanhopper9020 I had the cheaper one fitted previously, and had no issues with it. The screen broke after it was hit by some stones but I'm not sure the Triplex screen would have come away unscathed.
Just to follow up on this, the Triplex screen received two stone chips on it's first outing. I don't think there is any point going for the more expensive glass in a track car.
I cant help but think some wood clamps would lend a hand.
I think one has to be careful not the squeeze the frame too hard, I have heard of the glass breaking if too much force is applied. But having something to keep the frame together whilst you assemble is certainly useful.
You need to hire a left handed albino leprechaun to work on theses cars.
Did you ever re shoot the refitting part, as I am very interested in this, as its my next job Thanks
Thanks for your message, since I made the video I've not needed to change the screen so have not re-shot it yet. I will have to soon as there are two small chips on the screen but I think it will be ok for the 2021 season. I only get 1-2 seasons out of the screen before it needs changing. If I can help at all just let me know?
@@davidrussellwilks Thanks for the reply, and thanks for the offer of advice.
I will bear this in mind as I attempt my rebuild.
For what it worth department ; May I suggest periodically (once a year) remove each screw on the upper frame (Phillips) , one at a time , (there different) and give a shot (generously) of WD40 followed up by oil by oil (10W) …….. this will prevent the inevitable “seized in” or broken screws , The side bolts should also be hit with WD40 periodically , it will make life easier . In fact when servicing anything , thank the extra measure to clean & lube , an ounce of oil is worth a ton of aggravation …or something like that
Stuck screws in the frame can be a real pain. I tend to use the aluminium anti-seize when assembling, it leaves a residue on the threads that prevents rust and keeps the screws from seizing. It's well worth checking every few years though.
David, do you have a brother who drives a red MGB? I met a fellow a few years ago that had a similar interest. I drive a red 1963 MGB.
Thanks for your message Jim, I do have a brother but he doesn't have a red MGB, he does have an interest in cars though. Thanks for subscribing to the channel!
@@davidrussellwilks Thanks David.
I alsoown and drive a red 1963 MGB.
What about the spacers ,when do they go in.I have a 1980 rubber bumper mgb roadster.Does anyone know?
I fit the metal spacers before the screen you may need to add the soft fibre spacers too depending on how the screen legs fit. They should be fairly snug and take up any gap between the body and the screen.
Thankyou for that information,I am fitting it now
How do you do that with out any fowl language???????
Thanks for your message Robin, and thank you for joining the channel. No foul language; that's the beauty of editing! I really want to make a video covering screen refit soon, annoyingly all the footage was lost this time around. I have some new body to screen seals to fit at the corners so will make a new video then.