Used to build lots of gunpla 20+ years ago in my early teens and got back into it (transitioning from making motorcycle plastic models). For panel lining, best bit of advice I can give is to use an eraser (the ones you rub out pencil lines with) and they clean up real well, and no damage to the plastic. For the tighter spots I use the Tombow mechanical erasers (Ultra-fine 2.3mm) and it does the job pretty well. For precision, you can use the craft knife to scrape some of the paint but you can easily scratch the plastic so use this technique with caution.
For snap builders lacquer thinner is fine, but be careful advising using lacquer thinner for cleaning up in general, it's going to make new painters cry. On painted kits, lacquer-based thinner will eat through lacquer, enamel and acrylic paints. Better to use the same type of thinner based on the type used for inking the panel lines, the Tamiya panel liners are enamel type, so use enamel thinner or lighter fluid. it won't damage the plastic if applied with control and don't let the paint and thinner seep in between the plastic or joints, cos then they won't be able to evaporate and then damage/crack the plastic. It's not enamel paint or thinner that's the issue, it's how and how much and where you apply.
I didn't learn anything new from this video, but I have been building for some time now. Having said that, if I were new to the hobby, you have made a fantastic video. No fluff, just substance.
I prefer panel lining completely in black, and the reason why is that I can see it easily from my display shelves without having to look closely to find those finer details. If realism mattered more to me I would definitely vary the colors used.
I know people say use brown on the yellow parts but i think it looks awful. At some point i will fill out colours to get a grey and light grey for contrasts.
I agree. Just discovered “Gundam” and Gunpla (I mean, I knew about it for years but just finally started watching the Anime and want to build Gunpla, lol) and his videos have been some of the best for noobs like me!
very useful! I mostly build warhammer space marines and miniatures for games but recently bought some panel liner to try out. Now I know how to actually clean up when the panel liner goes where it shouldn't (mostly the fault of my shaky hands). There are so many tricks that many in the war gaming crowd are missing out on by staying in their own circle!
I usually use dark gray on white parts instead of regular gray. The regular just never seems to go on well for me but the dark gray is a nice medium that looks dramatic without looking like it was drawn on.
Just opened a mastergreade F91. It's my first Gunpla kit. I have experience in model building and I am finding out that gunpla is a whole other world in terms of building. Thankyou for this video as I am very hesitant about panel lining and making sure I do a top notch job.
I've built 12 kits so far, 11 HGs and the RG Zeta, and im finally confident enough try panel lining after finding the patience to apply 200 decals to a robot lol. Im glad you explain why and when to use the various panel lining colors, because that was my biggest question this whole time.
Just getting into Gunpla building. Thank you for the tutorial. Got the PG RX-78-2 and the PG RX-0 Unicorn as my first kits. It will definitely be a learning curve, but I’m sure I’ll enjoy the build immensely. Cheers!
@@aMillaGunpla I appreciate it! I grew up building plastic scale models (tank, aircraft, cars, etc). Gundam theme had always been on my radar, but I didn’t get serious about it until I saw Adam Savage’s PG RX-78-2 one day build. It looks like a very rewarding experience throughout. So I’m very excited to join such a vibrant community! 👍
@@lookbudy take your time. I’m probably much older than you, and I have a stable job and a family. It doesn’t happen overnight, so definitely do what you can now to enjoy the hobby, when timing is right, you will be able to get bigger sets as well.
I have to say as a builder for almost 10 years now, I find grey, light grey, and brown panel liner to be the best universal colors. I use to use a lot of black when I first started out for those more exaggerated strong panel lines. Over the years I have become more of a professional builder and find grey/light grey to give me the subtle panel line details you should expect to see from more professional model builders even beyond gunpla. I would suggest anyone to take the time to watch professional model makers in other things like ships, planes, and tanks who have been building for decades. They have such a wealth of knowledge beyond what most gunpla modelers have.
Great tip! Gunpla is definitely young compared to older practices like military vehicles and even Warhammer/DnD miniatures. A lot of cool paint effects I’ve seen were actually done on minis!
@@poh5796 Hmmm you can technically thin it out to make it "lighter", but it won't change the pigment color, it would just change the density of it. Plus, that means more thinner is being used, which increases the chance of cracking. If you have any spare parts that aren't used in your build, I would try it out on one of those first.
@@poh5796 I mean if you have it already I wouldn’t be discouraged. Black isn’t a bad color by any means. Iv just seen people go overboard with it and a model turn out to have that more artsy drawn look to it. It works sometimes but such a strong color is unnecessary on a lot of models unless your dealing with a model that is already majority a dark color
Something I’ve found works well is citadel contrast paint or army painter speed paint and you can just use water or contrast medium to clean it up, If your workspace is small and not well ventilated and don’t like to use to many solvents. It’s worth a shot if your in the uk to as some of he tamiya stuff is harder to get hold of, citadel shade paints can work well to if you topcoat first
I would go for enamel thinner - Tamiya does its own (X-20 without A at the end, which is an alcohol thinner) and there are other modeling brands. Those are quite delicate, I have never had any problems with them. Artistic white spirit, turpentine and zippo fluid works too. What is great when using dedicated enamel thiner - you can use it over lacquer paints and it won't bite into it. So you can do enamel panel lining, washes and weathering over lacquers and clean them with white spirit.
As I watched this(after a bunch of other videos) I heard capillary action....subscribe lol. Very helpful and knowledgeable. I just had a kit fall apart the other day cause I was using the wrong kind of thinner.....that I didn’t know was an issue untill it happened, and then found this video talking about the cracking, it was a cheaper 1/144 model that I was experimenting on......fail. Also respect for the cinematography and sweet sweet B-roll.
I find that a calligraphy brush pen (mine's from Pentel) is a relatively cheap way to get very dark, and fairly thin ink into the panel lines. It's easily removable via a wooden toothpick and the darkness of the ink can somewhat be controlled by squeezing the plastic ink well a bit more for darker lines.
For anyone looking for an alternative to thinners for removing excess panel line ink, lighter fluid works equally well. With one caveat, it doesn't make the plastic brittle and break. I use the lighter fluid used to light charcoal briquettes and it's been great. Other builders have known to use Zippo lighter fluid exclusively for panel line removal. As for the black liner on white pieces debate; the reason some builders avoid it is because it can leave a shadow/smudge that won't go away no matter how much you try to remove it. The gray one doesn't have this problem. I only use brown for yellows and oranges.
The tamiya panel liner itself can make the abs plastic of inner frames become brittle as well. I think oil paints and oil paint thinner might do that to? One way to be able to use any kind of panel liner is to use a gloss top coat first, even if it is just over the plastic. You're probably always gonna want to top coat over paint before panel lining to make sure you don't stain your paint or take the paint off when removing excess liner.
@@CyberDragoon656 As far as matte vs gloss, that's really more personal preference. You can also use different top coats on different parts to get a variety of textures, or even mask off parts of pieces to get a paneled look on a flat surface just with the different textures. A flat top coat is definitely a safe bet though.
GREAT VIDEO about to start panel lining my first model with my boyfriend tomorrow, so im currently trying to learn every tip before we ruin our gundams. thanks for the video !
I build PCs but recently started collecting to start Gunpla. Quick search, I found your channel. Really like the vibes and production you got going on. Keep it up. I’ll prolly hit you up with questions.
My first kit I used a mechanical pencil and it looked kinda bleh. Then I got some gundam panel liner fluid types and they're pretty good although they smudge super easy, making them kind of a pain to handle while they're still wet. But, they're super easy to clean up once dry and what you use to clean it is pretty flexible. I use Meths which is just a regular ass cleaning product, it's cheap as only a couple bucks for a litre. More recently I've been using the Sumire style gundam markers, they're cool. Definitely pick them up if you're wanting to line areas that aren't actual panel lines, more so edges. Because sometimes the paint just won't flow along parts. On top of their sheer versatility they're also super easy to clean up on UNPAINTED PARTS. All you need is to just rub the excess with an eraser or finger or if you wanna go super sweaty, a toothpick to really get sharp detail. But, do not, under any circumstances use them on painted parts you will not be able to clean them at all. They are purely for straight builds or before a top coat finish. My recommendation if you're just starting out, get a black Sumire style gundam panel liner. They're the easiest to work with just being a pen really, and they're cheap. Don't need anything except a finger to clean them and they can look really good
thx for the video, It's difficult to get the products in here, so I test several water gel and pigment ink water proof in scraps (runners) and try to remove with my finger and keeps the gundam line without becoming a mess. I found out a nice option: "Edding 1880" drawliner 0.05 mm and alcohol for electronics works fine to clean with a cotton swab
I use acrylic inks thinned with acrylic flow medium or just a bit of water. Citadel washes and contrast colours are good too but must be thinned to flow. I avoid oil and lacquer based thinners and paints.
That quill pen technique looks very interesting but I think I’ll stick to Gundam markers for my panel lining for now. Sure they’re not ideal, but they get the job done and they’re pretty easy to use. I mostly use a combination of the pour-type markers and the fine liners. The pour types are used for details and fiddly bits and the fine liners are for bolder lines and minor bits of shading. Sometimes I’ll also use the Gundam Real Touch markers for panel lining with a bit more color. For example I did most of the lines on my HGUC Ground Gundam with the Real touch GM402 Grey 2. The slightly brownish grey fits better with the grounded/gritty character of that Mobile Suit.
Markers definitely are easier! And I don’t doubt you could get good results with them. Maybe I’ll revisit them and see what kind of results I can get after having used panel liner for so long 🤔
2 constructive criticisms. when you show comparisons have the pictures be more symmetrical so it's easier to compare and have the pictures up on the screen longer great video man keep up the good work
There are Gundam markers you can get now that act like the ink with brush, where pushing them down on the surface releases ink onto it. It's slightly messier but it's still pretty great.
Not a popular method and im not sure if im the only one who practices this method but i use sharpy pens for panel lining. What i do is i write over the panel lines and allow the sharpy ink to get through the “inside canals” on the kit. After a few seconds, i rub paint thinner over it and the ink inside panel line remains. Saves a lot of time, money, and effort.
Just bought the Mr Hobby thinner but was worried it wouldn’t be compatible with the tamiya liner since it’s enamel based. Glad to know it works for you!
I've built a handful of kits now and am only now getting into finer details like this, and I'm having decent luck using a .3mm mechanical pencil, seems to be easy enough to clean mistakes with just my fingers and a little more pressure gives darker lines
i didnt know much about paint panel lining before the video but now i have a good grasp of it thx to ur vid. also the quality of the vids is pretty high, keep up the good work :))
I have only ever used black souly for that animation look, I love it, and sometimes I miss some spots to clean, and I just finger rub it to give it a almost dry brushed aged look, it's not pro, but I like it, it's got my jank
Newcomer here! Watching your videos is helpful to my beginner painting skill. I got MG Unicorn Gundam as my first kit a week ago. One thing I could say is that it is unbalanced and the waist-leg joint is so stiff making the leg come out every damn time I change its posture even though I did a decent job in building it.
My problem with it is the skirt and ankle armor seem to be held on with hopes and dreams instead of any actual friction, also I gave up on having him hold the gun for a similar issue, this one will not be moved very much
For almost all of builds, mainly that of RG and a couple of MG's, I've used the Gundam Panel Liners. I had to get a couple more because the tips ended up breaking apart because of how much pressure I used to apply, especially with the gray marker. There is a good use to using those markers; and that is weathering. Make it messy to give it that dirty look that a real life tank would have. That was how I used to do them, but I stopped doing it cause the amount of q-tips used was getting ridiculous! Now I've kind of switched over this felt tip marker and the difference is just amazing! This tutorial was really something. The quill is certainly a nice bonus that I would love to try out in future builds along with Tamiya panel line colors. This is why I love building. There really is no limit when it comes to building a model. And the stuff the people come up with to make models look more dynamic is just amazing.
I'd also recommend 91% rubbing alcohol. The 70% isn't strong enough. Dab it on a cotton swab, paper towel, etc and you can lightly rub the exceas off the surface without affecting the ink in the panel lines.
What about gloss top coat? I read and more experianced gunpla buildes told me to use top coat before panelining but all the tutorials i see on youtube usually do it straight to plastic? The argument for topcoat is that it should separate micro cracks that can be straight out of the factory also it's easier with clean up as panel liner stays in the panel line better, as the topcoat adds texture to the surface so it's harder to smudge it.
Kind of late to this, but I'm just getting into using top coat and Tamiya panel line accent colour and had a question. Would the procedure be to top coat on assembled kit (broken up into head, chest, arms, etc.) -> panel line on disassembled kit (piece by piece as if just taken off runner) -> decals -> top coat again? I've only got Mr. Super Clear Matte on me at the moment, considering getting the gloss finish for first top coat.
Are panel liners used for darker models. For example a gloss black car, what would you use for the door and hood lines, which color or would you not use at all???
I do like the black most of the time. Even on white, maybe like on wing kits. Maybe Grey on IBO. I like both! Depends on the kit! Love the all black on older ones for that cartoony cell shading look.
Thanks! I got them from Amazon (link in desc) but of course you could find q-tips anywhere. I just ordered from Amazon because they have pointed tips, which can be better for certain areas
Im leaning toward the quil pen. That said, it seemed like you didnt need the thinner because of the precision of the pen. Is that an accurate assumption?
I'm not sure, I haven't tried those myself or heard of anyone using it for cleaning up panel liner. Best practice would be to take a spare part, or even part of the sprue, and see how it reacts with the chemicals
When I was a kid I "panel lined" My white Xbox 360 controller and I thought I was an absolute genius and hit invented something amazing lol. Fast forward a few years when I got my first Gundam kit turns out I wasn't the genius I thought lol Great tutorial thank you!
If I detail paint a kit, apply clear acrylic gloss coat, then panel line, is lacquer thinner still safe to use to remove the smudges of the panel line? Will it affect the acrylic gloss coat at all?
It will affect the gloss coat a bit, but that is exactly what I use a gloss coat for! It protects the paint underneath, and typically I will do another topcoat over the panel line to get the desired gloss/matte finish
Never thought of using a quill pen! That seems to open up possibilities in using custom colors for panel lining too. Is there a specific pen you recommend?
I noticed you were using Tamiya paint; yet you chose Mr. Color Thinner -- any reason why you chose not to use Tamiya thinner? And on a model ship deck to resemble wood; what base color and wash would you recommend to resemble teak wood? (I'm building the Battleship Bismarck from Agroa Models which is why I'm asking . . if it helps, the deck is a weird pink/flesh, or very washed out brown; but definitely does not look like wood.) - Thanks
Mr. Color is what I use for lacquer paints, so it's pretty much the main thinner I buy. I haven't tried Tamiya's thinner before, but I'd imagine it should work just as well
It should, but it take longer to remove because it’s not as strong as thinner. 91% isopropyl alcohol also has the potential the crack parts as well, but not as quickly as enamel thinner
I just use a pin point sharpie and alcohol wipes to get rid of any excess. Still panel lining is really hard for me because I don’t have a steady hand.
Depends on how you like to panel line. Generally, I panel line last because the less panel lining I "need" to do, the better, and seeing the kit fully complete helps me visualize what I want panel lined
Used to build lots of gunpla 20+ years ago in my early teens and got back into it (transitioning from making motorcycle plastic models). For panel lining, best bit of advice I can give is to use an eraser (the ones you rub out pencil lines with) and they clean up real well, and no damage to the plastic. For the tighter spots I use the Tombow mechanical erasers (Ultra-fine 2.3mm) and it does the job pretty well. For precision, you can use the craft knife to scrape some of the paint but you can easily scratch the plastic so use this technique with caution.
You should make some of the Gunpla ride the motorcycles.
@@bigbaz4632 Honestly that might be a fun idea haha
For snap builders lacquer thinner is fine, but be careful advising using lacquer thinner for cleaning up in general, it's going to make new painters cry. On painted kits, lacquer-based thinner will eat through lacquer, enamel and acrylic paints. Better to use the same type of thinner based on the type used for inking the panel lines, the Tamiya panel liners are enamel type, so use enamel thinner or lighter fluid. it won't damage the plastic if applied with control and don't let the paint and thinner seep in between the plastic or joints, cos then they won't be able to evaporate and then damage/crack the plastic. It's not enamel paint or thinner that's the issue, it's how and how much and where you apply.
I feel like the enamel liner should have all those points on the bottle, sadly most people learn the hard way. Like me! Cracked some feet :' )
Yes you explained this right, Lacquer thinner being a hotter chemical than enamel thinner.
I didn't learn anything new from this video, but I have been building for some time now. Having said that, if I were new to the hobby, you have made a fantastic video. No fluff, just substance.
Thank you Raimy! That's the goal, helping people get back to the hobby as quick as possible!
I prefer panel lining completely in black, and the reason why is that I can see it easily from my display shelves without having to look closely to find those finer details. If realism mattered more to me I would definitely vary the colors used.
I know people say use brown on the yellow parts but i think it looks awful. At some point i will fill out colours to get a grey and light grey for contrasts.
You are criminally underrated
Haha, I appreciate it, but all in due time. The slow start helps with getting to know everyone 🙂
When a comment gets magnitudes more likes than the video. Well. I gave you both one 😊
Ima come back to this when u hit a million to prove I’m an og! Great work bro keep it up!
I agree. Just discovered “Gundam” and Gunpla (I mean, I knew about it for years but just finally started watching the Anime and want to build Gunpla, lol) and his videos have been some of the best for noobs like me!
very useful! I mostly build warhammer space marines and miniatures for games but recently bought some panel liner to try out. Now I know how to actually clean up when the panel liner goes where it shouldn't (mostly the fault of my shaky hands). There are so many tricks that many in the war gaming crowd are missing out on by staying in their own circle!
I usually use dark gray on white parts instead of regular gray. The regular just never seems to go on well for me but the dark gray is a nice medium that looks dramatic without looking like it was drawn on.
Same! Dark gray is the happy medium.
Just opened a mastergreade F91.
It's my first Gunpla kit. I have experience in model building and I am finding out that gunpla is a whole other world in terms of building.
Thankyou for this video as I am very hesitant about panel lining and making sure I do a top notch job.
Thanks for the video, very timely for me. Just retired and getting into gunpla. Your delivery is very pleasant and relaxing, subscribed!
Thanks, and welcome to the hobby!
I almost always go for black panel lines because I really like the animated look. Also, good tip on using a quill pen!
For sure, they definitely take some getting use to, but I much prefer it to a paint brush. And it just feels fancier 😅
I've built 12 kits so far, 11 HGs and the RG Zeta, and im finally confident enough try panel lining after finding the patience to apply 200 decals to a robot lol. Im glad you explain why and when to use the various panel lining colors, because that was my biggest question this whole time.
Just getting into Gunpla building. Thank you for the tutorial. Got the PG RX-78-2 and the PG RX-0 Unicorn as my first kits. It will definitely be a learning curve, but I’m sure I’ll enjoy the build immensely. Cheers!
What a strong start! Good luck on your builds, hopefully they turn out great!
@@aMillaGunpla I appreciate it! I grew up building plastic scale models (tank, aircraft, cars, etc). Gundam theme had always been on my radar, but I didn’t get serious about it until I saw Adam Savage’s PG RX-78-2 one day build. It looks like a very rewarding experience throughout. So I’m very excited to join such a vibrant community! 👍
@@yw9686 its been 5 months how did it go :)
dayumm PG's for ur first kits! I haven't even done one PG yet, i dont have money :c
@@lookbudy take your time. I’m probably much older than you, and I have a stable job and a family. It doesn’t happen overnight, so definitely do what you can now to enjoy the hobby, when timing is right, you will be able to get bigger sets as well.
Just starting out and your videos are the best ones ive come across. Thank you so much!
One more Gunpla tutorial before bed...
Sees my favourite Mobile Suit Tallgeese. Alright I'm paying attention 😂
Dude your videos are like perfect aesthetic. Love em
I am definitely getting some of that Tamiya panel liner ASAP. Gundam markers have served me over the years, but that looks so much better.
I thank you with a subscribe my friend. Digestible conversational delivery, great editing. As a noob I really appreciate it.
Thanks so much! Glad I'm able to help the community, and I hope I can keep bringing some beneficial content!
I have to say as a builder for almost 10 years now, I find grey, light grey, and brown panel liner to be the best universal colors. I use to use a lot of black when I first started out for those more exaggerated strong panel lines. Over the years I have become more of a professional builder and find grey/light grey to give me the subtle panel line details you should expect to see from more professional model builders even beyond gunpla. I would suggest anyone to take the time to watch professional model makers in other things like ships, planes, and tanks who have been building for decades. They have such a wealth of knowledge beyond what most gunpla modelers have.
Great tip! Gunpla is definitely young compared to older practices like military vehicles and even Warhammer/DnD miniatures. A lot of cool paint effects I’ve seen were actually done on minis!
I already bought a black panel liner, is there anyway I can thin it out to dark grey? Don't wanna waste my money...🥲
@@poh5796 Hmmm you can technically thin it out to make it "lighter", but it won't change the pigment color, it would just change the density of it. Plus, that means more thinner is being used, which increases the chance of cracking. If you have any spare parts that aren't used in your build, I would try it out on one of those first.
@@aMillaGunpla oh yeah! A lot of my tips come from old guys with grey hair lol
@@poh5796 I mean if you have it already I wouldn’t be discouraged. Black isn’t a bad color by any means. Iv just seen people go overboard with it and a model turn out to have that more artsy drawn look to it. It works sometimes but such a strong color is unnecessary on a lot of models unless your dealing with a model that is already majority a dark color
Something I’ve found works well is citadel contrast paint or army painter speed paint and you can just use water or contrast medium to clean it up, If your workspace is small and not well ventilated and don’t like to use to many solvents. It’s worth a shot if your in the uk to as some of he tamiya stuff is harder to get hold of, citadel shade paints can work well to if you topcoat first
I would go for enamel thinner - Tamiya does its own (X-20 without A at the end, which is an alcohol thinner) and there are other modeling brands. Those are quite delicate, I have never had any problems with them. Artistic white spirit, turpentine and zippo fluid works too.
What is great when using dedicated enamel thiner - you can use it over lacquer paints and it won't bite into it. So you can do enamel panel lining, washes and weathering over lacquers and clean them with white spirit.
I like the black panel lining more in the withe plastics. Brown on yellow looks cool.
Good stuff!!
I will probably use a hybrid approach, as I like the contrast of shadows and 'gasket' lines. Love the use of the pen!
Honestly the best video for this topic. So much depth...
Thank you, glad you found it informative!
As I watched this(after a bunch of other videos) I heard capillary action....subscribe lol. Very helpful and knowledgeable. I just had a kit fall apart the other day cause I was using the wrong kind of thinner.....that I didn’t know was an issue untill it happened, and then found this video talking about the cracking, it was a cheaper 1/144 model that I was experimenting on......fail. Also respect for the cinematography and sweet sweet B-roll.
@@tylerslider4902 Thanks Tyler!
Crazy how I literally received my tallgeese fluegel and this vid popped up. Deffo helps to see whether the grey or black works
I find that a calligraphy brush pen (mine's from Pentel) is a relatively cheap way to get very dark, and fairly thin ink into the panel lines. It's easily removable via a wooden toothpick and the darkness of the ink can somewhat be controlled by squeezing the plastic ink well a bit more for darker lines.
For anyone looking for an alternative to thinners for removing excess panel line ink, lighter fluid works equally well. With one caveat, it doesn't make the plastic brittle and break. I use the lighter fluid used to light charcoal briquettes and it's been great. Other builders have known to use Zippo lighter fluid exclusively for panel line removal. As for the black liner on white pieces debate; the reason some builders avoid it is because it can leave a shadow/smudge that won't go away no matter how much you try to remove it. The gray one doesn't have this problem. I only use brown for yellows and oranges.
Great input, love it!
Turpentine is also a good cleaner. Just be sure to have a fan on, that stuff is pungent.
Am i crazy to just use a qtip to buff away excess enamel liner? It works well and i have better control i find. Since it works slowly.
@@OvAeons hey if it works it works
I'm begining to paint my first KIT. Now I know what i need to do! Thanks! Great VID
Black panel liner ftw! Good showing with the pen, never tried that
best tutorial on the yt platform you are so underrated man‼️‼️
The tamiya panel liner itself can make the abs plastic of inner frames become brittle as well. I think oil paints and oil paint thinner might do that to? One way to be able to use any kind of panel liner is to use a gloss top coat first, even if it is just over the plastic. You're probably always gonna want to top coat over paint before panel lining to make sure you don't stain your paint or take the paint off when removing excess liner.
What would you recommend for after panel lining? I.e gloss coat, lining ,...
What would you recommend for after panel lining? I've heard some say matte is good and some say semi gloss is the best. I.e gloss coat, lining ,...
@@CyberDragoon656 As far as matte vs gloss, that's really more personal preference. You can also use different top coats on different parts to get a variety of textures, or even mask off parts of pieces to get a paneled look on a flat surface just with the different textures. A flat top coat is definitely a safe bet though.
GREAT VIDEO
about to start panel lining my first model with my boyfriend tomorrow, so im currently trying to learn every tip before we ruin our gundams. thanks for the video !
Thank you, glad I could help!
I build PCs but recently started collecting to start Gunpla. Quick search, I found your channel. Really like the vibes and production you got going on. Keep it up. I’ll prolly hit you up with questions.
Awesome! Thanks for stopping by. Feel free to join us on the Discord as well!
discord.gg/cF3BSaSESe
My first kit I used a mechanical pencil and it looked kinda bleh. Then I got some gundam panel liner fluid types and they're pretty good although they smudge super easy, making them kind of a pain to handle while they're still wet. But, they're super easy to clean up once dry and what you use to clean it is pretty flexible. I use Meths which is just a regular ass cleaning product, it's cheap as only a couple bucks for a litre. More recently I've been using the Sumire style gundam markers, they're cool. Definitely pick them up if you're wanting to line areas that aren't actual panel lines, more so edges. Because sometimes the paint just won't flow along parts. On top of their sheer versatility they're also super easy to clean up on UNPAINTED PARTS. All you need is to just rub the excess with an eraser or finger or if you wanna go super sweaty, a toothpick to really get sharp detail. But, do not, under any circumstances use them on painted parts you will not be able to clean them at all. They are purely for straight builds or before a top coat finish.
My recommendation if you're just starting out, get a black Sumire style gundam panel liner. They're the easiest to work with just being a pen really, and they're cheap. Don't need anything except a finger to clean them and they can look really good
Thanks for the suggestion! I've only tried the fine-tipped Gundam markers, maybe I'll have to try out the ones you're talking about!
thx for the video, It's difficult to get the products in here, so I test several water gel and pigment ink water proof in scraps (runners) and try to remove with my finger and keeps the gundam line without becoming a mess. I found out a nice option: "Edding 1880" drawliner 0.05 mm and alcohol for electronics works fine to clean with a cotton swab
Just finished this build and starting my panel lining.
This is the best Panel Lining tutorial out there.
You are awesome thank you
I use acrylic inks thinned with acrylic flow medium or just a bit of water. Citadel washes and contrast colours are good too but must be thinned to flow.
I avoid oil and lacquer based thinners and paints.
That quill pen technique looks very interesting but I think I’ll stick to Gundam markers for my panel lining for now. Sure they’re not ideal, but they get the job done and they’re pretty easy to use.
I mostly use a combination of the pour-type markers and the fine liners. The pour types are used for details and fiddly bits and the fine liners are for bolder lines and minor bits of shading. Sometimes I’ll also use the Gundam Real Touch markers for panel lining with a bit more color.
For example I did most of the lines on my HGUC Ground Gundam with the Real touch GM402 Grey 2. The slightly brownish grey fits better with the grounded/gritty character of that Mobile Suit.
Markers definitely are easier! And I don’t doubt you could get good results with them. Maybe I’ll revisit them and see what kind of results I can get after having used panel liner for so long 🤔
personally i prefer black panel line because it makes the lines stand out more and i personally just think it looks better
I was actually going to say the same! I have other colors but black just looks better to me honestly
2 constructive criticisms. when you show comparisons have the pictures be more symmetrical so it's easier to compare and have the pictures up on the screen longer great video man keep up the good work
There are Gundam markers you can get now that act like the ink with brush, where pushing them down on the surface releases ink onto it. It's slightly messier but it's still pretty great.
You deserve more subscribers for this video quality
Thank you, we'll get there slowly but surely!
Not a popular method and im not sure if im the only one who practices this method but i use sharpy pens for panel lining. What i do is i write over the panel lines and allow the sharpy ink to get through the “inside canals” on the kit. After a few seconds, i rub paint thinner over it and the ink inside panel line remains. Saves a lot of time, money, and effort.
Oooh never thought about using the quill for panel lining
I have used the Brown on the White and its fantastic because seams dirt/oil
A alternative is using a regular pink eraser works just as good as thinner does without the risk of damaging the plastic
Great tutorial. Exactly what I was looking for.
quality stuff rly like the way u set out your videos very chill
Glad you like them!
Just bought the Mr Hobby thinner but was worried it wouldn’t be compatible with the tamiya liner since it’s enamel based. Glad to know it works for you!
No problem 👍
I've always just used a wash. Some black acrylic paint and some blue in a small sauce cup filled with water
You can also use a fine tip Gundam marker for panel lining, too.
I've built a handful of kits now and am only now getting into finer details like this, and I'm having decent luck using a .3mm mechanical pencil, seems to be easy enough to clean mistakes with just my fingers and a little more pressure gives darker lines
i didnt know much about paint panel lining before the video but now i have a good grasp of it thx to ur vid. also the quality of the vids is pretty high, keep up the good work :))
Thanks so much! Glad I could help 🙂
Great editing. This was an informative video, thanks friend.
I have only ever used black souly for that animation look, I love it, and sometimes I miss some spots to clean, and I just finger rub it to give it a almost dry brushed aged look, it's not pro, but I like it, it's got my jank
Sir you deserve way more views and subs!
I appreciate that!
Newcomer here! Watching your videos is helpful to my beginner painting skill.
I got MG Unicorn Gundam as my first kit a week ago. One thing I could say is that it is unbalanced and the waist-leg joint is so stiff making the leg come out every damn time I change its posture even though I did a decent job in building it.
My problem with it is the skirt and ankle armor seem to be held on with hopes and dreams instead of any actual friction, also I gave up on having him hold the gun for a similar issue, this one will not be moved very much
For almost all of builds, mainly that of RG and a couple of MG's, I've used the Gundam Panel Liners. I had to get a couple more because the tips ended up breaking apart because of how much pressure I used to apply, especially with the gray marker. There is a good use to using those markers; and that is weathering. Make it messy to give it that dirty look that a real life tank would have. That was how I used to do them, but I stopped doing it cause the amount of q-tips used was getting ridiculous! Now I've kind of switched over this felt tip marker and the difference is just amazing! This tutorial was really something. The quill is certainly a nice bonus that I would love to try out in future builds along with Tamiya panel line colors. This is why I love building. There really is no limit when it comes to building a model. And the stuff the people come up with to make models look more dynamic is just amazing.
Yeah, people can get very creative in this hobby, whether it's building, painting, or making dioramas!
Amen brother.
Thank you for the tips went and tried them out on my narrative gundam B-Pack and it’s turning out nicely
Today I just finished panel lining my HG Aerial ✨
I'd also recommend 91% rubbing alcohol. The 70% isn't strong enough. Dab it on a cotton swab, paper towel, etc and you can lightly rub the exceas off the surface without affecting the ink in the panel lines.
What about gloss top coat? I read and more experianced gunpla buildes told me to use top coat before panelining but all the tutorials i see on youtube usually do it straight to plastic? The argument for topcoat is that it should separate micro cracks that can be straight out of the factory also it's easier with clean up as panel liner stays in the panel line better, as the topcoat adds texture to the surface so it's harder to smudge it.
great video lots of good tips. question can I use hobby enamel paints as a wash over acrylics thanks
Thinned enamel will "eat through" and slightly dissolve acrylic paint. I would recommend using a water-based acrylic wash like the ones Citadel has
Kind of late to this, but I'm just getting into using top coat and Tamiya panel line accent colour and had a question. Would the procedure be to top coat on assembled kit (broken up into head, chest, arms, etc.) -> panel line on disassembled kit (piece by piece as if just taken off runner) -> decals -> top coat again? I've only got Mr. Super Clear Matte on me at the moment, considering getting the gloss finish for first top coat.
Are panel liners used for darker models. For example a gloss black car, what would you use for the door and hood lines, which color or would you not use at all???
You have a great style and a lovely setup and production. Subscribed.
Thank you, I appreciate it!
Thanks for talking about the color
I liked the gray on white results
I do too, but for the face, definitely wish it was darker, it looks really washed out!
just finished my seven swords (2nd model), used artline marker with .2 tip because i am too cheap to drive to city & buy some panel line markers
Can I use isopropyl alcohol to clean up smears or accidental out-of-line panel lining?
bro, you should have more subs hands down
Can I do panel lining and apply decals after the robot is all built ? I’d like to see the robot as a whole while doing them
I do like the black most of the time. Even on white, maybe like on wing kits. Maybe Grey on IBO. I like both! Depends on the kit!
Love the all black on older ones for that cartoony cell shading look.
That is a very interesting observation, I think I can agree with that!
Very well made video. Thanks man
Great video. Tamiya makes a dark grey panel line accent that you might like better. Where’d you get that big ass bag of q-tips?
Thanks! I got them from Amazon (link in desc) but of course you could find q-tips anywhere. I just ordered from Amazon because they have pointed tips, which can be better for certain areas
Im leaning toward the quil pen. That said, it seemed like you didnt need the thinner because of the precision of the pen. Is that an accurate assumption?
Great video.. Can you clean up using white sprits og terpentine? that's what I use for oil paints when doing Warhammer
I'm not sure, I haven't tried those myself or heard of anyone using it for cleaning up panel liner. Best practice would be to take a spare part, or even part of the sprue, and see how it reacts with the chemicals
Top coat (gloss) first then panel lining and then top coat again? Or panel line and then top coat ? Beginner here 😅
can i use rubbing alcohol instead to clean out the paint mess? instead of lacquir thinner
When I was a kid I "panel lined" My white Xbox 360 controller and I thought I was an absolute genius and hit invented something amazing lol. Fast forward a few years when I got my first Gundam kit turns out I wasn't the genius I thought lol
Great tutorial thank you!
That actually sounds like a pretty cool idea, I've never thought of that! Controllers these days are too sleek to try this on lol
Thanks for this panel line guide, helped me a lot and will definitely recommend this video to those who also want to learn.
Nice videos and the comment section here is full of good advice, nice !
Just a quick question from an amateur, Do i need to top coat my gunpla before paneil lining or is it better to do it after ?
Most informative video
Do you put on a top coat on the plastic before putting on the panel lines?
I believe that's out of the box colors of the tallgeese , so no top coat/ paint were used
If I detail paint a kit, apply clear acrylic gloss coat, then panel line, is lacquer thinner still safe to use to remove the smudges of the panel line? Will it affect the acrylic gloss coat at all?
It will affect the gloss coat a bit, but that is exactly what I use a gloss coat for! It protects the paint underneath, and typically I will do another topcoat over the panel line to get the desired gloss/matte finish
@@aMillaGunpla how many coats do you do? Both from after painting the kit and after panel lining? Thanks again for answering my question my dude.
Usually one thin coat to help the clear coat stick better, then another thicker coat making sure to cover all areas
Thanks for the pro tips brother!
Can I use isopropyl alcohol to clean up the tamiya panel line?
Can you panel line without having to disassemble the parts ? I feel like I’d have to see how it looks overall as a whole as I panel line
Btw, I have heard you need to use Top Coat BEFORE panel lining, then apply another Top Coat. Is that true?
Never thought of using a quill pen! That seems to open up possibilities in using custom colors for panel lining too. Is there a specific pen you recommend?
Yup, I have the exact pen I use linked in the description! It’s very affordable but still has good reputation in the calligraphy community
I noticed you were using Tamiya paint; yet you chose Mr. Color Thinner -- any reason why you chose not to use Tamiya thinner? And on a model ship deck to resemble wood; what base color and wash would you recommend to resemble teak wood? (I'm building the Battleship Bismarck from Agroa Models which is why I'm asking . . if it helps, the deck is a weird pink/flesh, or very washed out brown; but definitely does not look like wood.) - Thanks
Mr. Color is what I use for lacquer paints, so it's pretty much the main thinner I buy. I haven't tried Tamiya's thinner before, but I'd imagine it should work just as well
I may have missed something, but would rubbing alcohol work for removing excess panel lining paint from unwanted areas?
It should, but it take longer to remove because it’s not as strong as thinner. 91% isopropyl alcohol also has the potential the crack parts as well, but not as quickly as enamel thinner
Question, Is it ok to directly apply the Tamiya Panel Line on kits without top coat first? I read some comments that it makes the plastic brittle
is gundam marker remover the same solution used in the thinner?
I just use a pin point sharpie and alcohol wipes to get rid of any excess. Still panel lining is really hard for me because I don’t have a steady hand.
Do you think it would be easier and better if you panel line the entire runner first and then assemble it?
Depends on how you like to panel line. Generally, I panel line last because the less panel lining I "need" to do, the better, and seeing the kit fully complete helps me visualize what I want panel lined
Depends on how much other areas utilize black throughout -
I'm biased, I love grey outlining
On color or white paint -
Why isn't there gold or silver?
Thank you for this. Thats a sub from me. Loving your channel. going through craploads of your videos right meowwwwww
Do you recommend the Panel Liner ink as better than using a Panel Liner Marker/Pen?