Here's a tip! Use 99% isopropyl alcohol for cleaning! So much cheaper and so much more effective, super quick drying time witch that means almost no smell
The main reason a lot of people use alcohol is probably because GSI Creos uses alcohol based acrylics in their gundam branded markers (its the same paint as their Aqueous line pots). Tamiya on the other hand is a oil based enamel, while alcohol will sorta work if you scrub at it you're better off using mineral spirits or naphtha (such as lighter fluid) to remove it. The point of Tamiya's x-20 is to thin paints for airbrushing its just watered down methylated spirits and propylene glycol which acts a retarding agent (slows paint drying time so it doesn't get dry tip when sprayed) As for the whole cracking deal, I think most of this comes from people panel lining fully assembled kits where the ink can end up flowing between parts with no place to properly evaporate and cure. This issue is easily solved by disassembling your kit prior to panel lining or just doing it before assembly.
I use gray, dark gray and light gray for panel lining. Shake it well before using. It's good. It looks like a deep shadowy tone not same with the black that the kit will make looks like a 2Dish or cartonish vibe.
I have used them for dozen of kits. I actually prefer ink much more because its sticks to the plastic much better. For washing washing use lighter fluid as it doesn't damage the plastic as much as the thinner plus it smells less too. But always remember to wear Ppe and don't apply the lighter fluid too much.
I've used the accent color on about 8 kits without topcoating for protection and I've had exactly one piece crack. So it's possible, but it does seem extremely infrequent. I do wonder if it was the result of some other factor, though.
Thanks for sharing. This is helpful to know. Some comments I saw online mentioned it affects bandai's ABS plastic runners (since not all are ABS). So that's a factor to consider / verify
@@Wonghobby13 Yeah I've heard that too so I don't touch those with the accent color, but it feels like ABS parts are almost always internal anyways so there's not much reason to line them.
A cheaper yet safe alternative for Mr. Hobby or Tamiya thinner is lighter liquid. I use Mr. Hobby panel liner for both Bandai and bootleg kits since i've heard/seen that Tamiya panel liner is too strong and will break bootleg kits' plastic, and i use lighter liquid or eucalyptus oil to clean the panel lines.
Here's a silly noob question that just occurred to me, but can't you just panel line with thinned down enamel or acrylic black or gray paint? I always see people use markers or Tamiya panel liner which seems to be a bit of a waste of money if you probably already have black or gray paint lying around anyway?
@@jarosbodytko6462 acrylic paint is too thick when used and needs extra steps to thin down so tamiya panel liner allows painters to control the thickness easier
I use panel lining markers grey and black only. I use my scribing tools to try and open the lines a bit more to get deeper in the cracks but its not a good choice....in my opinion anyway. I woukd rather get the panel lining paint than use marker...
Be aware the bottle panel liner is oil based and it could damage plastic! They're meant to be used for those who painted the kits first... You could risk it on MG kit but don't do it RG.
I use it on everything and I think it’s just certain plastics like ABS. Just don’t do it when it’s assembled because it likes to puddle if you’re not careful. Good advice though
I would go with the pen if its my first time to get a feel of it. Also RG tallgeese doesn't have much panelling to do so the pen will be fine as starter.
I’ve used the liquid panel liner with an eraser and it works amazingly, depending on the panel lines you do some of them don’t flow as good which would probably have the pen come in handy
I saw many mentioned about using top coat after to protect the plastic. However I don’t use top coating at all. Might be ok for bandai kits without it. Another comment mentioned it affects bootleg kits.
To avoid accidentally erasing the color of the lines with alcohol, it is better to use a pencil eraser, it removes the marks well.
Here's a tip! Use 99% isopropyl alcohol for cleaning! So much cheaper and so much more effective, super quick drying time witch that means almost no smell
The main reason a lot of people use alcohol is probably because GSI Creos uses alcohol based acrylics in their gundam branded markers (its the same paint as their Aqueous line pots). Tamiya on the other hand is a oil based enamel, while alcohol will sorta work if you scrub at it you're better off using mineral spirits or naphtha (such as lighter fluid) to remove it. The point of Tamiya's x-20 is to thin paints for airbrushing its just watered down methylated spirits and propylene glycol which acts a retarding agent (slows paint drying time so it doesn't get dry tip when sprayed)
As for the whole cracking deal, I think most of this comes from people panel lining fully assembled kits where the ink can end up flowing between parts with no place to properly evaporate and cure. This issue is easily solved by disassembling your kit prior to panel lining or just doing it before assembly.
I use the pen 🖊️ and work in all my gundams perfect 👌🏻
I use gray, dark gray and light gray for panel lining. Shake it well before using. It's good. It looks like a deep shadowy tone not same with the black that the kit will make looks like a 2Dish or cartonish vibe.
Hey on what parts do you use light gray ??
@lucamodric4268 on dark gray parts like inner frames
I use Tamiya ink but I dab it on my pieces with a fountain pen for more control vs the included lid brush thingy
I have used them for dozen of kits. I actually prefer ink much more because its sticks to the plastic much better. For washing washing use lighter fluid as it doesn't damage the plastic as much as the thinner plus it smells less too. But always remember to wear Ppe and don't apply the lighter fluid too much.
question, why don't you use gundams pour type markers? Is there a certain reason? Is the end result worse than Tamiyas and the Pens?
I've used the accent color on about 8 kits without topcoating for protection and I've had exactly one piece crack.
So it's possible, but it does seem extremely infrequent. I do wonder if it was the result of some other factor, though.
Thanks for sharing. This is helpful to know.
Some comments I saw online mentioned it affects bandai's ABS plastic runners (since not all are ABS). So that's a factor to consider / verify
@@Wonghobby13 Yeah I've heard that too so I don't touch those with the accent color, but it feels like ABS parts are almost always internal anyways so there's not much reason to line them.
Ive always panel lined while the parts are still on the sprew and ive never had anything crack
A cheaper yet safe alternative for Mr. Hobby or Tamiya thinner is lighter liquid.
I use Mr. Hobby panel liner for both Bandai and bootleg kits since i've heard/seen that Tamiya panel liner is too strong and will break bootleg kits' plastic, and i use lighter liquid or eucalyptus oil to clean the panel lines.
I never had a bootleg kit so that’s interesting to know . Thanks for the tips!
Get the best of both world with Gundam Marker Panel Line Pour-type, GM301, 302 and 303
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@@vinhtiennguyenle888 shop đi tìm tư liệu làm series LIB Learn 101 :D
You need to shake the gray, all the pigment has settled to the bottom.
Will definitely try again with the shake! Thanks :)
Here's a silly noob question that just occurred to me, but can't you just panel line with thinned down enamel or acrylic black or gray paint? I always see people use markers or Tamiya panel liner which seems to be a bit of a waste of money if you probably already have black or gray paint lying around anyway?
@@jarosbodytko6462 acrylic paint is too thick when used and needs extra steps to thin down so tamiya panel liner allows painters to control the thickness easier
I use panel lining markers grey and black only. I use my scribing tools to try and open the lines a bit more to get deeper in the cracks but its not a good choice....in my opinion anyway. I woukd rather get the panel lining paint than use marker...
You know ,that pen cannot used over other paint. It will eat away the paint while washing the excess or during applying
I used both. Sometime the tamiya panel line not work on some surface.
Pour type panel liner don't work well with shallow surfaces.
Be aware the bottle panel liner is oil based and it could damage plastic! They're meant to be used for those who painted the kits first...
You could risk it on MG kit but don't do it RG.
I use it on everything and I think it’s just certain plastics like ABS. Just don’t do it when it’s assembled because it likes to puddle if you’re not careful. Good advice though
I have a rg tall geese as my first gunpla what do you prefer using in these two
I would go with the pen if its my first time to get a feel of it. Also RG tallgeese doesn't have much panelling to do so the pen will be fine as starter.
The pen doesn't eat the plastic, I don't have the patients for painting
I’ve used the liquid panel liner with an eraser and it works amazingly, depending on the panel lines you do some of them don’t flow as good which would probably have the pen come in handy
What about a whiteboard marker?😏
@@thatonedooofus tried that when I was younger!
do you top coating after using tamiya accent color?
If you want the panel line to last longer then yes
I saw many mentioned about using top coat after to protect the plastic. However I don’t use top coating at all. Might be ok for bandai kits without it. Another comment mentioned it affects bootleg kits.