HOW to Panel Line a Gundam | TIPS for better Gunpla Panel Lining
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- Опубліковано 19 кві 2022
- How to panel line a Gundam or how to panel line gunpla. Some tips on how to do good panel lining on unpainted gunpla and painted gunpla. You've tried markers, pens, oils, enamels, acrylics, inks and even the panel line accent paint... and yet you do bad panel lining?
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I hope this video will guide you on what to do and what not to do to be able to do good panel lining like a PRO.
After watching this video, you won't do nasty and dirty panel lines ever again. 😉🎨🎨🎨
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Hi DonSuratos, may I ask lang po, gaano po kaneed ang topcoat or something kapag nagamit ng oil-base panel lining like Gundam Marker pourtype?
to my knowledge kasi, dapat daw tinatopcoat ang plastic before gumamit ng oilbase like pour-type or tamiya. in this video parang di ko kayo nakita magtopcoat. totoo po ba na madaling masira ang plastic?
planning kasi na mag pourtype, so far yung panel-ling fine tip lang gamit ko.
Thank you for clarifying more on panel lining with acrylics, they are much cheaper and low maintenence than oils and enamels. Also the tip to use back of knife as budget scriber. Can use blades that are dull, maybe file them a little too.
Glad you liked the video. ☺️🎨🎨🎨
Just take into account when using panel liner, or their thinners like turpentine, zippo fluid, white spirits, etc, on bare unpainted kits, it might make your kit brittle and break. It enters the plastic and destroys the structure inside. If you generally leave your kits alone, you should be fine, and probably not even notice it.
Totally agree. I broke so many kits when I used to weather with enamels more than a decade ago. But I tried not to endorse Vallejo too much in this video. Cheers! ☺️
Unless you dip a part in any of the chemicals you mentioned above and let it soak for a an obscene amount of time, you won't have any problems with the plastic getting brittle and. Breaking...ppl have been using them for years and they absolutely work just fine. Ppl like you just feel they gotta put their 2 cents in.
@@stanlee2200 people like me had this problem. Sometimes depends on the plastic, not all kits use the same quality, sometimes depends on the size of the part or if it's a delicate piece, and so on. Don't need to be a dick about it. Was just advice and a word of caution.
That actually depends on the company and the quality of their plastic curing process. Bandai kits are very fragile while Kotobukiya are much more resilient.
@@stanlee2200 Not really true. I’ve had pieces break from small amounts of Tamiya accent colour. It didn’t soak, just seeped inside the seamline and after a day when I went to handle the piece it crumbled. So be careful.
Some great tips and ways to use other things for panel lines! I always forget about re-scribing so I'm adding it to my tips playlist so I don't forget again. Thanks!!
Thanks for watching Sean. Glad you found the video helpful. ☺️🦾🦾🦾
Before watching this video my panel lining SUCKED, but after watching it my panel lining ROCKS! So many videos telling you how to do it but not much are giving those extra tips like how to do it properly towards painted kits!
Hahaha! Thank you for watching! 😊🎨🎨🎨
also here is an interesting thing that I figured out:
If you are panel lining flat painted models, even if you varnished it moisten up te pieces a bit.
Dab some water on it, it will make the capillary action easier, and prevent the ink staining your paint job to mutch (Because of how the flat paint works even when gloss coated it will drink up the ink. because of surface tension)
Awesome! Sounds good to me! Thanks for sharing! 😊🎨🎨🎨
@@DonSuratos no prob :)
So this is what happened btw.
I have painted my gear doga with the flat olive green tamiya paint.
But even clear coated the surface had this really rough texture.
As I started putting in on the panel line all the access ink instead of pulling on the surface just scattered on the surface, like it was drained by dried-out soil.
So I figured since this was the much rougher flat textured paint the ink scattered in the micro pores.
So I took a cotten bud, and, and moistened the pieces up just a tad bit.
It made the capillary action waaay faster, and prevented ink spillage scattering in those pores.
Fantastic video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
You are most welcome! ☺️🎨🎨🎨
I use watered down Testor's Acrylic Black wash, works great and it lasts long since you can just keep adding water to it for more
"That's it, Pancit". love that! The phrase and the dish! cheers from Seattle!
Awesome man! 😅🎨🎨🎨
So my panel lining hasn’t been terrible but I’ve been opting to do a “shadowed” effect with gundam markers when it comes to raised edges and such. I’m thinking I’m going to finally take the plunge and grab a couple SABs since rescribing always comes to mind when I’m doing so. The more I use my tamiya wash, the more I don’t even want to look at markers anymore lol. I used to think they had their place but I think that’s just because I haven’t developed other skills yet ie: scribing. Thanks for the tips!
You are most welcome. Scribing gets easy with practice. Just never rush or you'll end up with crooked panel lines. 😊
Cool as always.
Thanks bro! 😊🎨🎨🎨
Excellent video, bro! Sorry if I’ve been absent for a while in following your videos. Likely the best tutorial on panel lining I’ve seen, with true tips and tricks. Rescribing is actually a great suggestion. Keep those type of videos coming, bro! Ciao!
Hi Natale!,Hope you are fine! Yeah I noticed your absence. 😅☺️🦾🦾🦾
@@DonSuratos all is well, just been (and still am) very busy with work (the real one….. that brings bread to the family… 😂) your recent gunpla videos are really nice!
On a side note, I’ve been asked by MUFANT, the science fiction and fantasy museum in my city (Turin) to organize the gundam section of an exhibition that will start in September on modern manga, anime and their inspiration/influence. The gundam part will show gunplas from each decade to show the evolution of the kits design and style and also special gundams used as marketing by various brands or events.
Just bought your book, looking forward to reading it! 👊🏼
Thank you so much for the support! Appreciate it so much. ☺️🎨🎨🎨
I find Vallejo paints work really well, and you can clean them up with water and it won't strip your clear coat or paint job
Totally agree. But I tried to be as unbias as I can here, but yes I prefer Vallejos everytime. ☺️🎨🎨🎨
I went through using gundam marker, then gundam weathering marker, then panel accents.
This was before I learned I needed to do Top Coat before applying.
Too bad I'm too impatient and too lazy to wait for the varnish to cure😅
I went through everything bro. 😅 I have like all the colors of gundam markers and enamels way back. Rescribing is actually key. ☺️
Fantastic tips man 👍🏼
Thank you Scroggie! ☺️🎨🎨🎨
Some great advice here Don!
Hey! Thank you my old time bro! ☺️🦾🦾🦾
Great video and tips. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful! 😊
Very helpful info on panel lining
Glad you liked the video. ☺️
Thank you for info
Welcome. ☺️
Thank you Don. After the "Panel Lining" is complete, if we wish to continue painting with Acrylic paint, do we need to apply a Matt Varnish? I am concerned the Acrylic paint may not adhere well to the Gloss Varnish. Your thoughts are welcomed.
You are correct. Good call. Sealing with a matte varnish will give you the perfect finish for painting. 😊
So av airbrush thinner won't effect the gloss varnish at all for cleaning up the panel line wash?
Yes it won't. Specially once cured after 24 hours.
Excellent video thanks very much Don…
Welcome Pilgrim. Thanks for watching! ☺️🎨🎨🎨
Another great tutorial vid! I always use Tamiya Enamels for panel lining but it's hard to find these days, i tried using acrylics but the capillary action is not smooth as enamels paints. I'll be trying oil paints as you suggested. Thank you!
I actually really like using oil paints because you can’t tweak the color to your liking with each part!
Totally agree with what you said DJ. The panel line accent is the easiest to use actually. But yes, I kinda miss or will miss the enamels. The seller told me the enamels are no longer produced now. 😓
But much like acrylics, you have to thin bro. Thus not beginner friendly imho. ☺️
Tamiya enamels are great indeed, but if you cant get them you can try Humbrol enamel. They dry pretty fast, even metallics dry fast. One thing I dont like is how difficult it is to not spill them when opening the tins😬
Kudos boss. Thanks for the video.
Welcome bro! 😊🎨🎨🎨
Thanks for the tips on which sab’s to get
Oh you are getting one bro? Should be great for your Orc armors. 😜
@@DonSuratos i want a better air brush. After that, i may get a set. I have 8-10 gundam that need building
Sir,will the paints be strong enough after drying if I paint the vallejo paints on a gunpla without using primer?
Is there something can be used with brush instead of using primer with an airbrush?
Yes... ONLY if you used Mecha Colors. ☺️
@@DonSuratos Thank you sir
Heyy nice video btw, very informative anyway i wanna ask if there is any other option for a chisels other than sab or bmc like you said, its too expensive imo😭
Thankyou!
Welcome. 😊
Wow bro what a beautiful studio. I’m so jealous!!!
Oh thanks bro. Just cheap DIY wooden shelves bro. ☺️🎨🎨🎨
Another good tutorial boss! Nailed it again kabayan! 👍
Salamat kabayan! ☺️🎨🎨🎨
so if i want to add matte finish to my kit, does applying gloss coat before the matte coat will destroy the matte coat?
Nope. 🎨
Bro hope get answered , just want to ask the proper sequence
Panel lining
Decals
Top coat (matt)
Which goes first?
salamat idol.. started using more vallejos lately together with my kids..
Salamat din kabayan! Great choice! Non toxic ftw! ☺️
I enjoy your videos and work. One correction in this video is that soap actually reduces surface tension in water while you said it increases it. I'm sure it was just a slip but wanted to clarify. Keep up the good work!
Thank you! ah yes, always gets confuse on how to explain surface tension. Thanks! 😊
question.. sometimes i use tamiya panel lines, and some parts of the plastic would get small cracks :( this happened to me for RG and HG gundam kits.. i don't apply anything before i use the tamiya panel line accent color..
You'll need to be careful. Tamiya also says it on the bottle about corrosion but the hidden fine print that people miss is that tamiya accent is enamel paint that "should" be heavily diluted with thinner. If you want to minimize risk as a total, just apply a clear coat. If you're cleaning the pool, then you must be using either enamel thinner (don't use acrylic thinner or a very common one is x20a), lighter fluid, or mineral spirits. That can also corrode as well if you're not careful however you can minimize it with a tissue to dry up the cotton tip before cleaning.
Yes. I think they are enamels. And since they are thinned down enamels, the thinner is extra harmful. Sorry I tried not to endorse Vallejo too much, as I am bias. Thus I did not mention the pros and cons of each method. ☺️🎨🎨🎨
Thanks for the info! ☺️🎨🎨🎨
😂 glad I stayed for the Pancit ✌🏼, great vid bro
Hahaha! Thanks for watching! ☺️🎨🎨🎨
One thing that i see that can be an issue is when cleaning panel lines, you tend to go down the line. I've learned that for both shallow or not, wipe across the line. Not down it. It works. Though, despite the slight criticism, this is a very informative video. Also to those knew to panel lining....practice make perfect. Find what works for you.
Yeap. Thus I always re-scribe. 😊
just one correction. dish soap breaks surface tension not adds more, great tips though.
Thank you! 😊🎨🎨🎨
Great vid! How do you handle painted and topcoated kits when it stains and its hard to remove im kinda OC especially on white
You need a really nice and shiny gloss varnish / topcoat before you do panel lining. Then it will be perfect all the time. ☺️
@@DonSuratos But I don't need to do gloss first if I just want to panel line on vanilla plastic? Can I just panel line, clean and then top matt coat?
Also can I use Tamiya 80030 X-20 Enamel Thinner to clean my Tamiya Oil Panel Lining? Will it damage Gunpla plastic?
@@honestbenny Yes if it is just plastic.
Liking these tips vids. I've started trying scribing by going over the kit panel lines so it sounds like I decided to do a good thing.
Is it worth gloss varnishing bare plastic if you're aiming on using water slide decals and then panel lining?
Lastly, washing up liquid (dish soap) actually breaks the surface tension rather than adds to it. But you're right, it flows so well when you add a little to a water based wash 😉
Haha, I explained the dish soap in reverse. But still it flows better with dosh soap. 😅. Varnishing over plastic is good for the decals, specially if you sanded the kit bro. However, make sure to rescribe before varnishing ofcourse. Thanks for watching bro! ☺️🎨🎨🎨
@@DonSuratos keep them coming and thanks for the tips. I've signed up for the Cerulean Project so need to practice and try these tips out 😁
Your into alone deserves a like and subscribe
Oh thanks! 😊🎨🎨🎨
Would the gundam markers be practical for smaller models, like Infinity?
Hi, I kinda forgot how thick the gundam markers are. I remember I bought a .1 Staedtler technical pen way back, for tiny panel lines. ☺️
@@DonSuratos oh cool, thanks, I'll try and find the .1. I've actually heard those be recommended for pupils already
This is very helpful to me. I've never done panel lining, and have wanted to try. Glad to see I don't have to toss cash at brand name model markers to do it. You, sir, have earned this sub.
Glad you found the video helpful. Thank you for the sub! ☺️🎨🎨🎨
Quick question about the Tamiya panel liner, do you still need to put clear coat on the parts before panel lining? I heard that it's corrosive to kits
Would still recommend putting on clear coat, if you can manage the tamiya to not pool too much and you cleaned it up. Also recommend not to apply too much cleanup whether you choose to use lighter fluid (I personally use this), mineral spirits, thinner. Pretty much get it in the cotton tip and you'll notice a wet cotton tip, just minimize it by letting tissue absorb the cotton tip.
However especially on newer kits (I want to say even reprints?) and those around years 2010-2022 has a better survival rate due to plastic molding process changes on the bare plastic however if you want to minimize the risk, just clear coat it.
I got some battle damage corrosion even on the HG moon gundam BUT I was testing things however my MG rx 78-2 the origin turned out just fine and perfected my own style. Honestly I would recommend doing it regardless, if it corrodes then so be it, lesson is learned on YOUR terms not anyone else, it's your plastic crack and gundam is freedom.
Always clear coat. ☺️
@@ying3966 thanks for the tip. Will look into clear coating and painting my Mg Barbatos before panel lining
@@DonSuratos salamat sa tip!
Clear coating means top coating? Can I do this to protect the parts - Mr. Hobby Gloss Top Coat then Tamiya Panel Line Accent then stickers, finally Mr. Hobby Matte Top Coat?
Doesnt that increase plastic breaking with tamiya accent paint??
Yes.... thus the gloss varnish. ☺️
SAB panel lines I've been interested in those for a while. I always wondered how to really get nice panel lines for some of the older kits. Its annoying how small the panel lines are for some older kits
SAB are a bomb! They are sharper than BMC ( even new BMCs are kinda dull ), and they do not leave ugly lip along the scribing like the cheaper alternatives. .1 or .15 SAB should work fine for those ugly small panel lines in old kits. ☺️
@@DonSuratos Question is where to buy SAB chisels? 😅
@@greychief I got mine from newtype, they should be able to send overseas but luckily I live nearby them so pretty much 2 day shipping. I wouldn't recommend .1mm unless you want the complete set, strangely enough your hobby knife is as close as a .1mm and pretty much the cleanup tool as you'll get plastic buildup on your new panel lines. .15mm for HG, .2mm for MG and possibly PG but I prefer .3mm for PG and after that you'll see your style of pattern at that point meaning on a HG, use .15mm and scribe all the way from your custom a to b point and use a .3mm in the middle of your custom scribed line.
You know I’m always excited to see gunpla/mecha stuff!
Flip flopping more this year. Ratio would be 3 : 1. 1 being gunpla. 😅
@@DonSuratos yeah that’s cool with me! One of those videos is going to be painting 1/144 and 1/100 pilot figures with acrylics im sure! Lol
Excellent video. Great tips and very well presented. Thank you!
You are most welcome. Thank you for watching. ☺️
Hey... good video.
Hey Mech! Thanks as always bro! ☺️🎨🎨🎨
Argh, Don, you evil man...the more videos about Gunpla stuff I watch of yours, the more I want to try my hand at it! I'm looking up beginner friendly kits as we speak! WHAT HAVE YOU DONE?! (Just kidding, but I am considering sticking my toe into this pool as of now)
Haha! Gunpla is awesome. No need ro paint to look cool. Newer kits are perfect! ☺️
I didn't know Tamaiya made pre-mixed panel liner.
I've been mixing Tamaiya paints with paint thinner for a long time, since I would Gundam Marker fades away with time.
But that might be due to sunlight exposure for 3+ years?
Oh man… there are a gazillion “gimmicky hobby products” these days! In fact the market is dominated by “gimmicks”. 😅
@@DonSuratos Honestly, I've been trying to keep my Gunpla safe from stuff like sunlight and dust, but sometimes I can't do anything about it, and it frustrates me.
For example: when panel lining, I tried markers, but they faded after 3+ years of sunlight exposure. I then tried paint thinner, and it lasted longer, but was more messy. I then looked up Top Coat to see if that would protect my gunpla from dust, but I need more info on it. Like, can I spray it parts that are still on the runners? Or can it only be done on a fully assembled model?
Nice and informative!
I know Tamiya is very easy to get in Europe, I guess I thought it was the same "all over", seeing as it's such an old brand.
ot: If you can, try out their lines of Clear paints, those are simply amazing!
ot2: Don't know if Vallejo has a Liner brush? I bought and tried one a while back, and it made panel lining so much easier, or well, cleaner.
I know someone already pointed out that soap breaks tension so I'll just add that coloured soap does change the liner colour^^ Found this out the hard/annoying way.
Thanks. Ah yes the clear paints. Tamiya was widely used way back. However, it feels that they never improved their paints though, thus the last time I used them was like more than a decade ago. The panel liners are cool though. ☺️
@@DonSuratos Yeah, used Tamiya (and Humbrol) when I started painting (30+ years ago) and still use the clears every other project. And yeah, don't think they changed much since then, but, why mess with perfection? (:
So like we do black lining on minis but bigger
Yes… only lazier. 😅
@@DonSuratos 🤣 well it does look easy except the carving the lines out
which type of panel lining does need top coat?
A nice gloss coat before panel lining is always nice. Regardless of paint type. 😊
@@DonSuratos Sorry I meant, Which type of panel lining does not need to top coat bro.
What cotton swabs are you using?
Just ordinary cotton swabs that leaves tiny fibers. 😅
@DonSuratos only the best cotton swabs available! Lol
Question so hindi naman po nakaka sira ng tamiya panel line accent ang bare plastic po kasi from what I've heard it's cracks bare plastic daw???
Actually delikado talaga oil at enamel dahil sa thinner / mineral spirits eh. Unless maganda pag ka varnish mo.
@@DonSuratos ah salamat po so bali kung gagamit ako ng tamiya panel line accent kailangan ko po mag apply ng gloss topcoat bago gamitin yung panel line accent po?
What about cleaning with isopropyl?
I think alcohol will work for acrylics and alcohol base paints like Tamiya, but I have never tried. ☺️
I use 99% to clean Tamiya panel liner and Gundam marker paint on bare plastic and it works just fine, seems easy on the plastic too.
Lol I saw a bug on your desk/table during 0:22
Hahahaha! Will check! 😅
That ant at the start of the video lol
Hahahahaha! 😅
everyone (as in me and you) seems to have a utility star wars mug dedicated to their hobby
Haha! Yes! 😅
hope you post more noob friendly tips more power and godbless
Thank you. I think my daughter has more noob friendly videos 👉🏽 ua-cam.com/users/NicoSuratosGunplaSciFi ☺️
Thanks for another great tutorial, Don!! I have to point out that @3:14 Mech range Varnishes are definitely up to the task for bare plastic, but Premium ab color range is not. I tried Premium ab Gloss and matt varnish on bare plastic and I found them do not have enough adhesiveness to plastic. You can easily peel the whole film off when left them air dry for one day if it’s sprayed on bare plastic.
You are totally right! I was surprised too. I thought Premium is stronger than that. Thus I only recommend Mecha Primers and Mecha Varnishes and Mecha Colors on bare plastic. The Mecha range are really insanely durable. ☺️🎨🎨🎨
@@DonSuratos Yeah, I think Premium is very resilient when it is one top of any paints, but just not on bare plastic.
There's no way somebody tried ALL of the things you listed in the beginning and still didn't figure it out.
You do gunpla? I did back in the day. 😉
"thats it pancit" 😂
Hahahaha! Kabayan?
start of the video at 1:50
BTW don't use too much Achohal or the armor that your panel lining can crack.
Totally agree. ☺️
9:38 Oh god, I feel stupid. I was going through this whole video wondering "What's an NML?"
Oh sorry for the way I pronounce enamel. 😅
Very educational vid... BTW any update on your Facebook page? it seemed it got hacked.... also can we buy your book locally (Philippines)??? :D
Oh thanks kabayan. Yes I still have a few copies of my book here. Just message me at Facebook or our shoppee page - Blue Brick Shop. ☺️
#1 clear gloss (NO MATT) Tamiya o Mr. Hobby for ex:
#2 panel line Tamiya, GAME Color Vallejo or, AK color etcc.
#3 Decal (i just, prefer "waterslide")
#4 Softener Mr. Mark ( by Mr. Hobby) or Vallejo "Decal soft.
#5 Setter " " (Mr. Hobby)
"Tip: do not consider the "Neo" suck! Select if possible, those without, are cheap, in hobby shops or on AliExpress!
Do not touch Amazon, which is very expensive, "like fire" !!
Finish gloss&matter, Gunze, Tamiya, Vallejio etcc.
🎨🎨🎨☺️
What you use for clearing panel line Tamiya?
Sy Gundam 💀
Need po ba coated muna bago mag panel line?
Always. Para madulas.
@@DonSuratos safe na kaya sa crack ung plastic nun sir?
@@aejobalcasabas953 yes... basta na varnish lahat bro.
@@DonSuratos salamat sir
@@aejobalcasabas953 NO "sir"... just "bro". 😊
I think anyone would say that you should coat your kit before using tamiya panel liner so the plastic won't crack. I have been applying tamiya on bare plastics for the majority of my kits and even dosed one before, after many months my kits are still intact, no cracks. I use a lighter fluid to clean btw and always wait for it to dry before cleaning
Been doing gunpla since 2008... I have multiple kits with cracked joints and parts. Perhaps I overdid the enamel washes for some, but I would never recommend them without caution.
@@DonSuratos medyo mahal din kasi ang top coat para sa mga low spenders kagaya namin kaya we just apply it bare, pero someone told me na Hindi daw yung tamiya ang dahilan kung bakit nag cra crack ang plastic, kundi yung cleaner daw na ginagamit ang dahilan kaya daw may crack.
My method is basically just using regular household items besides the panel liner itself. Line it with Gundam panel lining pen. Wait maybe 10-15 minutes. Then dip a q-tip in some isopropyl alcohol, rub most of it off onto a paper towel, you don’t want too much on. Then whipe away all excess.
Thanks for sharing! 😉🎨🎨🎨
Random trick: use paper to remove unwanted ink
Paper? Like ordinary paper? 😊
yes
I used it to panel line a tank model. It only works on flat stuff tho
- Makes a video about why your panel lining sucks
- cleans up parallel to panel line
LMAO! You pride yourself for cleaning up vertically? Hahahahahahaha 😅🤣😂
@@DonSuratosYou clean perpendicular to the line so you don't clean out the line, obviously. That's why you're spending so much time digging in lines that don't need to be. That's why YOUR panel lining sucks. This is a very basic concept of these sorts of techniques.
Obiously you are going to get problems if you are trying to use water based acrylics for panel lines.
What problems? 😱😱😱
A minute is not enough dry time for oil and enamel. Personally I get a much better result letting those paints dry at least 30 minutes before attempting clean up.
Oh I did not know. Thanks. 😉
I used 0.3 mm mechanical pencil.
Yay.
"animels"
😄😂🤣🙃
The fuck you said about my panel lining? How dare you?
😅
But your panel lining is still bad.. lol
LMAO!