Thanks for the video. On a 2005 Buick Rendezvous the inside bushing was loose on my knuckle bushing so I used a saw's all with a carbon metal blade and made 2 cuts and the out side of the bushing came out easy. I honed the inside and greased where the new one was going in, used heat, hammer, ball joint press and got it done. Before this fix, the dealer wanted $900 per side. Thanks again for the video.
Dude your video is amazing I went and bought a kit for $229 @ advance auto it couldn't do the job. I had to use the old school technique you posted. I am an old school mechanic and I get the job done the old school way. Anyone watching your video or reading my comment always try the old school way before buying expensive tools peace.
This video was very helpful. I wish I would have considered this earlier. Instructional videos are great to show me how to replace something. But, of course, with the job I had, there were several "Oh sh*t" moments. I was working on a bushing in the rear of my Mercury Mountaineer. Different configuration, but similar concepts. I already have a ball joint press tool. So that was helpful, sort of. I suspect the bushing was very old. The press tool pressed out the center of the old bushing, but the outer metal sleeve remained in the knuckle. Just great, lol. I did not have a torch, went to the store for that. That didn't help. I found your video and went back to the store for another torch and bolt hardware to try that center press idea. However, that stupid sleeve did not budge. I found a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade. There was enough clearance in the wheel well so I sawed away. Sure enough the sleeve came free and I was was able to get that out. However, now the brand new bushing is only pressed half way into the knuckle. I highly suspect there is blockage from rust and other build up inside the knuckle. So I had to order a set of sanding drums. Once those arrive later this week, I press out that bushing and do some sanding like you did. I am optimistic that will help. Thanks for sharing this!
Glad the saw worked for you. In our case the replacement part I bought online was not exactly the size of the original equipment, though it was supposed to be, but in the middle of a job at a friends house I wasn't going chasing down hard to find parts, we just made it work. This can be one of the more challenging projects many DIY mechanics take on.
This was a huge help with my 05 AWD Montana. I had to take off the hub, in order to get room to use my drum puller and I also had to grind a little to get the new one in.
Nice video, clearly explained. It's important to have the suspension loaded (as you did) before tightening the bolts. Otherwise when you lower the car, it'll put a twist in the rubber part of the bush. Just a note for anyone who jacks up the vehicle under the frame etc.
Thank you very much for this video. It was very informative and while I didn't need the whole video because I'm very mechanically inclined when I came to actually getting the bushing out this high quality video help me know exactly where to pry to get it to pop out.
Very helpfull, especially the tip to freeze the bushing before installation. Just one Q, if one bushing goes, then is it necessary to change the other side as well..? Thank you.
Most likely if one bushing is worn the other side is too, or soon to follow. While you've got the tools out, and since you'll need an alignment afterwards, it's generally wise to do them both.
This flange goes inside the knuckle. We saw the flange on the new part. Had to look carefully at the old bushing in the knuckle to see where it was. I'm not sure if that's true on all vehicles.
Ford recommended replacing knuckle now i know why.. 2012 ford explorer xlt the replacement bushing doesnt fit! How long do i have to sand? Should i start with a metal file or something? Whats the best lube to use? Does freezing it overnight help?? Someone PLEASE HELP!!!
It depends on how much too big it is. Can you get one from a different maker that fits better? I sanded on ours for about 1/2 hour - the important thing is to sand evenly all around, and check every now and then to see how close it is. I think a sander takes it down faster than a file, but you could alternate. Freezing does help, probably for an hour is enough, and add heat to the outside part. I wish I had sanded the first one longer, as it was really hard to get in. I don't think we used any lubrication - graphite might be good for that.
Yes, that's probably about average for suspension work. That's why some of us do it ourselves. I replaced the 2 rear knuckle bushings plus the 2 front control arms and 2 wheel bearings and the total for parts was about $300, but it took us 2 days to do it. We probably saved over $1000.
Hartz Homestead bless y’all’s heart, I’m gonna have to tackle this job really soon, and it’s going to the be horrible since the bushings are completely destroyed
Excellent camera work and explanation
Thanks for the video. On a 2005 Buick Rendezvous the inside bushing was loose on my knuckle bushing so I used a saw's all with a carbon metal blade and made 2 cuts and the out side of the bushing came out easy. I honed the inside and greased where the new one was going in, used heat, hammer, ball joint press and got it done. Before this fix, the dealer wanted $900 per side. Thanks again for the video.
It's surprising how hard those bushings can be to get out and back in. Glad to hear the saws-all method worked!
Dude your video is amazing I went and bought a kit for $229 @ advance auto it couldn't do the job. I had to use the old school technique you posted. I am an old school mechanic and I get the job done the old school way. Anyone watching your video or reading my comment always try the old school way before buying expensive tools peace.
This video was very helpful. I wish I would have considered this earlier. Instructional videos are great to show me how to replace something. But, of course, with the job I had, there were several "Oh sh*t" moments. I was working on a bushing in the rear of my Mercury Mountaineer. Different configuration, but similar concepts. I already have a ball joint press tool. So that was helpful, sort of. I suspect the bushing was very old. The press tool pressed out the center of the old bushing, but the outer metal sleeve remained in the knuckle. Just great, lol. I did not have a torch, went to the store for that. That didn't help. I found your video and went back to the store for another torch and bolt hardware to try that center press idea. However, that stupid sleeve did not budge. I found a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade. There was enough clearance in the wheel well so I sawed away. Sure enough the sleeve came free and I was was able to get that out. However, now the brand new bushing is only pressed half way into the knuckle. I highly suspect there is blockage from rust and other build up inside the knuckle. So I had to order a set of sanding drums. Once those arrive later this week, I press out that bushing and do some sanding like you did. I am optimistic that will help. Thanks for sharing this!
Glad the saw worked for you. In our case the replacement part I bought online was not exactly the size of the original equipment, though it was supposed to be, but in the middle of a job at a friends house I wasn't going chasing down hard to find parts, we just made it work. This can be one of the more challenging projects many DIY mechanics take on.
That was VERY THOROUGH & helpful Thanks !!!
....nice job, your technique is ingenious... thank you!
This was a huge help with my 05 AWD Montana. I had to take off the hub, in order to get room to use my drum puller and I also had to grind a little to get the new one in.
very thorough explanation and demo
Great video man. Lots of explanation and options for getting that sucker out!
Nice video, clearly explained. It's important to have the suspension loaded (as you did) before tightening the bolts. Otherwise when you lower the car, it'll put a twist in the rubber part of the bush. Just a note for anyone who jacks up the vehicle under the frame etc.
Thank you very much for this video. It was very informative and while I didn't need the whole video because I'm very mechanically inclined when I came to actually getting the bushing out this high quality video help me know exactly where to pry to get it to pop out.
Thanks I learned some good pointers
thanks for the video its the same problem with my 2007 rendezous
Good Job common design,works all.
Very helpful video!thanks for the great tips
You're welcome!
excellent video!! thanks!!
Thanks for this. Very helpful. I had a question about how much torque that impact you’re using is rated at
I don't know, it was at a friend's house, his tool, pretty old, but did the job.
Very helpfull, especially the tip to freeze the bushing before installation. Just one Q, if one bushing goes, then is it necessary to change the other side as well..? Thank you.
Most likely if one bushing is worn the other side is too, or soon to follow. While you've got the tools out, and since you'll need an alignment afterwards, it's generally wise to do them both.
Hi! I was wondering if a stainless steel adapter would be strong enough to press out a bushing and than press it back in?
Great video! One question, do you have to remove the rubber seal in order to push it in with the tool moog supplies?
No, as I recall, the rubber seal doesn't get in the way at all, not sure if it's even removable. You want to be pressing against the outside metal.
EXCELLENT VIDEO
Thanks!
THANKS*
hahahah im so glad i watched this.....im not going to do it now ....Im off to the experts
It can be a real bear. I'm glad I had a mechanic friend with better tools than me, and lots of muscle.
Thanks for the video 👍
Does the flange go into the knuckle? Or does it stay outside the knuckle as a stop?
This flange goes inside the knuckle. We saw the flange on the new part. Had to look carefully at the old bushing in the knuckle to see where it was. I'm not sure if that's true on all vehicles.
You can alwasy put the new bush in the freezer overnight then heat the arm give you a smidge more room.
The bush is completed stuck to the control arm. It is unbolted and i've been hammering away. Sooo annoying... But thank you for the video
Ford recommended replacing knuckle now i know why.. 2012 ford explorer xlt the replacement bushing doesnt fit! How long do i have to sand? Should i start with a metal file or something? Whats the best lube to use? Does freezing it overnight help?? Someone PLEASE HELP!!!
It depends on how much too big it is. Can you get one from a different maker that fits better? I sanded on ours for about 1/2 hour - the important thing is to sand evenly all around, and check every now and then to see how close it is. I think a sander takes it down faster than a file, but you could alternate. Freezing does help, probably for an hour is enough, and add heat to the outside part. I wish I had sanded the first one longer, as it was really hard to get in. I don't think we used any lubrication - graphite might be good for that.
Thx
My mechanic said, the knuckel bushing need to be replaced with other parts cost 900 dollars
Yes, that's probably about average for suspension work. That's why some of us do it ourselves. I replaced the 2 rear knuckle bushings plus the 2 front control arms and 2 wheel bearings and the total for parts was about $300, but it took us 2 days to do it. We probably saved over $1000.
Hartz Homestead nice！hope I'm as handy as you guys.
The only thing missing here is that the bolts were not lubed with anti seize Grease
I felt sorry for the mechanics that dealt with this when these repairs were all to common
Yes, it takes a lot of muscle and leverage, took 2 of us most of a day to do both sides.
Hartz Homestead bless y’all’s heart, I’m gonna have to tackle this job really soon, and it’s going to the be horrible since the bushings are completely destroyed
...the Dealer/Stealership mechanics have All the tools they need to do this job, in under an hour. Time is Money for a dealership.