If it still has a limp it may be worth checking the black inserts on the driving wheels it’s is very common to find that they have expanded outwards which can cause the coupling rods to catch on them which does cause a fair bit of resistance which could be responsible for the limp in running Only option to fix it if that is the issue is to take the coupling rod off the wheel out remove the black insert from the wheel itself then paint the inside of the area black so it all matches.
mainline didn't make the B1 Replica Railways did, they even had the Bachmann label underneath on some. but they are all made in the same factory owned by Kader
had the replica one way back when it was a good runner, didnt have any problems, some of my best stock was the old split chassis mainline and Replica locomotives.... miss having an OO set up like i used to
I have recently restored a old Bachman B1 and it was a pain in the backside, I worked on during lockdown and even tho I had all the time in the world to do it, I found so many problems and things that had to be replaced it took me 6 months!!
What an amazing contrast. I own a 1966 Marklin HO German class V200 which is used a lot. I replaced the carbon brushes and traction tires, the AC + pickup sledge, clean it and ad new lubrication, build in an old Delta decoder, and she run again after 20 - 25 minutes, and digital now. (full metal jacket loco, weight a ton and still no sign of zinc rot)
V eye count Ridley....fit the body onto a modern chassis and see the big difference 🙂. I converted about eight of the Bachmann B1's...easy body replacement..throw the split-chassis away!
Ah, a nice body and tender. When I built an EM underframe I put a can motor in the tender and using flexible shafts, gave it a six-wheel drive - three worms and three gears.
I saw some OO gauge live steam models and thought to myself Mr Lawrie needs one of of these, also with 3d printing, it wouldnt be hard to make replacement parts for these engines given how much people, lol i like how as I was typing this you legit got them,
I suspect that the limping is due to the motion binding. Can you take the motor out and turn the wheels by hand to feel where in the cycle the binding happens?
I noticed that part of the valve gear was bouncing up as the locomotive was running, I’m not sure what that could mean, but I think it may be something to look out for
Thank you for this upload,I think you have shown me where the fault lies on my Jinty. Once more into the breech dear fellows....wish me luck and smoke me a Kipper.
Thanks for the great video…..I’m trying to get a bachmann split chassis pannier tank running again but the motor doesn’t run when I connect a power supply via alligator clip test leads as you show to the terminals motor terminals. I’ve tested the power leads on another loco so I know the leads do have power What would cause one of these split chassis (brush?) motors to fail & is it repairable? Thanks in advance
Lawrie, wouldn't this be episode 17 of LGLL? Since the episode before the last was the 15th, and the last episode was also the 15th. Would last be the 16th then this the 17th?
Good to see someone tackle and indeed fix an old split chassis model, and it's definitely a lot better for it! Well done Lawrie!
If only other people would understand that basic maintenance of these types of locomotives will allow them to still perform well.
@@davidstrains4910 Most of them do.
You definitely need a loco cradle when working on them makes things so much easier. I don't think Mainline did make any of these.
If it still has a limp it may be worth checking the black inserts on the driving wheels it’s is very common to find that they have expanded outwards which can cause the coupling rods to catch on them which does cause a fair bit of resistance which could be responsible for the limp in running
Only option to fix it if that is the issue is to take the coupling rod off the wheel out remove the black insert from the wheel itself then paint the inside of the area black so it all matches.
i just got myself this model and mine so far seems to be running great... nice video on the servicing ... ATB Neil
I can smell these old model locos, even when they're not in the room with me! :-D Good stuff. :-)
Thank you for finding those 3D print wheel connectors - I have been looking for those for ages.
mainline didn't make the B1 Replica Railways did, they even had the Bachmann label underneath on some. but they are all made in the same factory owned by Kader
Oh yeah! One of my others is a replica railways one - didn't mainline produce one at all?
I had a Replica Railways one but it was terrible, the valve gear fell apart and I got rid of it.
@@lmm nope this site covers everything they made
www.mainlinerailways.org.uk/
had the replica one way back when it was a good runner, didnt have any problems, some of my best stock was the old split chassis mainline and Replica locomotives.... miss having an OO set up like i used to
That pen type multihead screwdriver is a great piece of kit. I have the same one for when I needed to fix a camera lens.
I have recently restored a old Bachman B1 and it was a pain in the backside, I worked on during lockdown and even tho I had all the time in the world to do it, I found so many problems and things that had to be replaced it took me 6 months!!
What an amazing contrast. I own a 1966 Marklin HO German class V200 which is used a lot. I replaced the carbon brushes and traction tires, the AC + pickup sledge, clean it and ad new lubrication, build in an old Delta decoder, and she run again after 20 - 25 minutes, and digital now. (full metal jacket loco, weight a ton and still no sign of zinc rot)
Im 99% sure that by taking the wheels out of the axle he has unquartered them and if he fixes that the limp would go away
They are square fitting ones, so getting the things correctly quartered isn't that hard
@@lmm oh really thats interesting i didn't know that locos came with Square axles thats cool and very helpful
Yeah the lugs that go inside are square - earlier mainline and replica railways ones are not square, so quartering is a pain!
@@lmm thats lucky i dont think they did things like that in the states i would make things much especially easy
V eye count Ridley....fit the body onto a modern chassis and see the big difference 🙂. I converted about eight of the Bachmann B1's...easy body replacement..throw the split-chassis away!
Ah, a nice body and tender. When I built an EM underframe I put a can motor in the tender and using flexible shafts, gave it a six-wheel drive - three worms and three gears.
Oh that sounds pretty nifty!
Great job fixing it
Thank you!
Hi Lawrie. Complete the phrase "Dammit, Jim...".
I saw some OO gauge live steam models and thought to myself Mr Lawrie needs one of of these, also with 3d printing, it wouldnt be hard to make replacement parts for these engines given how much people, lol i like how as I was typing this you legit got them,
I got a couple models that leave a bit to be desired (mostly cheap eBay finds) so as I sit here sipping coffee, I guess I’ll start pulling them out
I’m pretty sure Mainline didn’t make a b1, might be wrong,
Great video!
Replica Railways did 👍
You can also get replacement axels from Peters Spares.
Oh really
This is almost identical to my rebuilt royal Scott, it has broken axles and the block now shorts the whole thing due to broken insulators
Did you oil the axles and maybe a bit of extra weight in the tender would help.
I suspect that the limping is due to the motion binding. Can you take the motor out and turn the wheels by hand to feel where in the cycle the binding happens?
Ah, you see, Lawrie, ideally you need to fit a Turner Overdrive to it. Then it'll be down to the line.
Did I hear Lawrie thinking of getting a proper layout?
If you do look into the track plans books from Hornby or Peco.
Ah, now I remember why I model diesels! :-P
Hi Lawrie, have you checked the back to back measurement on the loco .?
I noticed that part of the valve gear was bouncing up as the locomotive was running, I’m not sure what that could mean, but I think it may be something to look out for
I'll have to have another look at it. Something has been catching
Well done 👏
That dial up noise brought some memories ;) Anyway, glad you were able to get it fixed :) It definitely runs much better!
I have never been successful gluing a Bachman nylon gear, when they split as they always do you, just have to replace them, I miss brass gears.
This worked very well!
could definitely do with an "italian tuneup" get the lubrication worked in and brushes cleaned up
Thank you for this upload,I think you have shown me where the fault lies on my Jinty. Once more into the breech dear fellows....wish me luck and smoke me a Kipper.
Hope it fixes it!
@@lmm Well it now runs which it didnt before,however the rods are making it lock up now.
Thanks for the great video…..I’m trying to get a bachmann split chassis pannier tank running again but the motor doesn’t run when I connect a power supply via alligator clip test leads as you show to the terminals motor terminals.
I’ve tested the power leads on another loco so I know the leads do have power
What would cause one of these split chassis (brush?) motors to fail & is it repairable? Thanks in advance
Random question, but who makes that screwdriver/pen thing you were using in this? It looks useful.
Lawrie, wouldn't this be episode 17 of LGLL? Since the episode before the last was the 15th, and the last episode was also the 15th. Would last be the 16th then this the 17th?
Funny t-shirt.
im curious if he coukd fix up one of my models that i got from a garage sale
I love the T-shirt
Liike James May fixing things.
Haha I’m second btw is the a stream soon
Lawrie fixes a little loco
Woo I'm (near) the first!!
Why is it whatever motor are in these they run like crap? 🤯
It's not brilliant!
Anyone here model in Scale 4/P4?
🏆🥇❤️🚂
L IM P pronounced limp (Goon show)
Reference is lost on me I'm afraid
@@lmm walks with a pronounced limp!