I have an '86 Toyota 4X4 truck and an '85 ford van. Both have fresh engines and transmissions but I have had endless fuel pump problems for several years. The Toyota pump actually had the arm collapse. I haven't been able to find a mechanical fuel pump for either that would last longer then a year. I finally installed this same pump in the Toyota in line with an oil pressure safety switch. It has been in there now for 3 years noisily doing it's job. After a year with that pump I installed one in the van and again it has functioned without a problem. I found these exact same pumps under a no name brand for so cheap I carry a spare in each vehicle. These pumps are noisy but worth it. If I were you, given the location of your pump I would lose those push on connectors and use ring terminals and nuts. All it's going to take is you roll across a cardboard box and those wires will be disconnected.
Its not always discoverable, but there is a minimum flow required in most external pumps - things don't live long dead headed for any extended period... plus, they are possible to vaporlock - no liquid means cooling ends [and the pump does too]. I have a 1971 vehicle I am about to drop the tank on to accomplish some basic things: replace sender with one fitted for a return line, replace existing steel line/add a return, and bless the general trunk area & rear frame rails with some paint, having access to all that. After that, I'm going to try something a little off the beaten path: keep my mechanical fuel pump on the engine and install an electric. The purpose of the electric will be carburetor bowl priming [or emergency service]. Mechanical will handle regular operation, keeping things relatively period correct. To do that, electric will parallel an inline check valve [spring loaded around 1 or 2 psi] - prevent recirculation around pump while running, but opened when mechanical suction demands. In the engine bay, another spring loaded check valve between supply and return [before mechanical] to act as a pop-off around 7 psi. Wild card? probably need an orifice to limit flow through that so pressure doesn't fall down completely as it pushes through mechanical pump. Why all that trouble? Because modern gas no longer has comparable additives to suppress evaporation as it once did: park for a week, and your fuel bowls are half empty/near dry.
FYI you can add a return to a tank easily with a bulkhead fitting. Basically drill a hole install sized fitting. It clamps through the hole then has NPT on top/bottom to connect fittings.
I have installed a few of the Carter electric fuel pumps, and I all ways install them with the motor facing up, with the inlets and outlets down a 1/2 to 1 inch below the frame.
I have no experience with either of these pumps. Some need a pre and a post filter. Some overheat if they deadhead (without a return line) as they do not shut off at a given pressure. If you have more failures, maybe look into those situations. Also, I hope you have been in contact with Edelbrock as they need to know and look into why the high failure rate. It would help us all should they fix the issue.
I think you made a good choice with that pump. I put the same one (never checked the part number but it looks the same) in my truck long ago. (like in the 90s) TOTALLY trouble free so far and still noisily humming along which I've grown to appreciate just for the immediate knowledge of juice from the battery on turning the key to on position. I made custom mounting hardware as well. I was lucky. I just grabbed the first electric pump I found at the time. I hope you got at least a couple of those Edlelbrocks replaced under WARRANTY! (Call them up EVEN IF THE WARRANTY TIME HAS ELAPSED...you never know what might happen!)
You're right about those red pumps, had one crap out on me a few days ago. Just to get an engine running on a test stand, twenty minutes and the pump burnt up. Whereas that Carter style I've used in airboats for years with no problem, mounted two feet above the fuel tank.
Hahaha what you just said about Edelbrock is true I just put one 3 day's ago drove it to the store and home now it took a shit can't believe that the price was 67.00 bucks a auto zone said there's no weren't on them
I had problems with a Holley red pump on my classic car, not only do they only have a 90 day warranty from Summit it failed twice (years of use), Now I have a pump just like the carter from Autozone ($80 w/ lifetime Warranty) and it pumps 6psi for years now without any issues. Good choice in pumps keep up the good work.
@@jandyallday Look it up on Autozone - Spectra Premium Electric Fuel Pump Part # A8109EP was $80 now $106 but has lifetime warranty. To avoid the buzzing sound install a rubber pad between the pump and the mounting bracket, or bracket and the car.
Use to run the holley red electric pumps. Never had a problem with them in the past but ran run about 5 years but was warned thatbit wouldnt last. Sure as shit within 500-700 miles it quit. Was running that carter prior to the holley with no problem. Went back to the carter
"take a what on you?" lol That's hysterical! I had that Carter on one of my Camaros. Loud as hell, hated hearing it. Being on a truck may not be as loud. It took that same dump you speak of! Was glad it did, replaced with mechanical pump. Much nicer ride! Hard to find a decent inline pump that actually holds up, and doesn't sound like a nest of hornets. Nice truck, what year?
@@stevoschannel4127 😄 Try a Barry Grant pump, rackety bass terds. I seriously despise electric pumps now days. I had twin AC 5593957 12 VOLT ELECTRIC FUEL PUMPs on a '67 RS back in the early '80s, they sounded like a damn airplane. Didn't bother me one bit. I wouldn't sit in a street car with one of those now. lol
Rumors of teflon tape failing with gas. If you wanna use something Black RTV is fuel resistant. I clarified recently with a pump manufacturer these low pressures no thread sealant is needed. Just good n tight
"I have my safety glasses on because gas in the eyes isn't fun" Sounds like the voice of experience! 🤣🤣 Natasha, glad to see you making more content this past week. I've missed seeing what you're working on lately!
Can you use the Carter fuel pump along a mechanical fuel pump? I’ve been doing this setup for awhile and haven’t had any trouble with it but someone brought to my attention that there is no need for it
I have used the Carter and it worked perfectly for years with good pressure, although pretty noisy... until the car sat for an extended period of time and the fuel gummed it up, but that was my fault.
Not really telling you what to do but you need to tuck the wires up and insulate them better. You did a good job but not a weather proof one. I personally would soldier and heat shrink. Good luck with your project.
FYI Loctite 565 is the only rated thread sealant I know of for gas/ethanol. Can that style pump be mounted upside down? (might help to get the actual pump lower) Also depending on the carb your running the fuel pressure might be too high now and flood the carb.
Every pump has a suction rating. For some, its maximum lift [as in self priming or diaphragm style]. I've used gerotor style pumps in a hydraulic system before - on top of the tank. Lift? About a foot at proper tank level, and hard piped. Other pumps [mainly centrifugal] need suction head - tank level is higher than pump suction port. Vane style? I have not taken one of these Carters apart, so not sure what type of design was chosen.
No, do not mount these pumps upside down. She has it the correct way. The electric motor is fuel cooled and lubricated like an efi pump. Upside down the motor can end up running in an air lock and eat itself way early
Wish I would’ve seen this video and read these comments about two weeks ago. Had the Chinese version of the Edelbrock it went out, got the Edelbrock now it will probably go out.
I called Edelbrock teck service.The teck was honest and told me they are junk, dont waste your money. He said they changed the source of supply. They use to be good he stated.He said their carburetors are still good.He doesn't know why they are still selling them when they are failing! Does not make sense to me!
If the Carter doesn't fail you aren't comparing apples to apples by mounting it lower in relationship to the tank than the Edelbrock(s), your friend was right electric pumps don't like to pull, " lift height". You could have flipped the Carter over putting the inlet and outlet even lower in relationship to the tank, it's sealed, doesn't care.
The reason that "mechanical" fuel pumps are mounted at the front of the car is that's where the mechanical drive is...on the engine ! It has nothing to do with push or pull. The fact is that all liquid pumps, no matter what style, are way better at pushing liquid (gas) than pulling. So, if you are going to mount an electric fuel pump, here's a few simple rules to doing it right. Mount it as close to the fuel supply as is practical. Mount it as low as possible. It's not a bad idea to use a larger supply hose to the pump if you can do it. Make sure that the voltage supplied to the pump is close to full system voltage, a little over 13 volts with the pump and the engine running. Obviously the ground has to be good. A filter before the pump is not a bad idea as long as it's not restrictive. A filter after the pump is mandatory. One last thing, try to keep the pump and lines away from the hot exhaust. If it's close, make a metal heat shield between the hot thing and the fuel lines and pump.
You need to zip tie those pump wires to the pump body. Believe me when I say they will work loose. I've never had any trouble at all with those Carter's. The only issue I have with them is their probably the noisiest pump on the planet!
The fittings that come with it are terrible. They are not tapered and bottom out in the pump ends. I bought two 1/4” X 5/16 hose barb fittings that were tapered and work fine .
Is the new pump working? I know this video is 6 month old as of my post. It might be body or chassis grounds causing issues. Like, if you're grounding to the frame, but the frame isn't grounded well... I had that problem running a pump at the back when I setup a FiTech on my Plymouth. Just curious cuz I'm about to go down that route again.... again...
Don't buy the eldelbrock pumps micro! Can't get around the block before it quits. It still runs but no fuel come out and fuel filters flow when hoses are disconnected
@mrme2017 this Carter pump has worked great. I've taken this truck on 300+ mile trips since this video. I'd definitely recommend getting one. The loudness is about the same
I'm sorry, I got completely brainf***ed by the "Chevrolet" script on the wheel of your truck. I admittedly have not watched your channel, but having a '74 F350 I recognize a dentside lol Did you write that yourself? Props on the trollcraft. I totally get it - I am still looking for a set of cheap Tesla badges (that aren't you know, burned to a fine toxic vapor from a totally unrelated unstoppable fire) to put on my most obnoxious V8 vehicle...
And yes, I run Ford ignition solenoids in my GM crap too, because live unfused heavy gauge wires directly connected to the battery at all times and sneaking very close to headers, or even manifolds, is like, bad or something... And even my Fords use the same carburetor family, if not exact carb, as everything else in the fleet. Saem reason all the tractors are Ford Ns. Different tools for different jobs, but standardize everything you possibly can for maintenance reasons. This is the biggest reason modern vehicles have become a complete non-starter for me, as everything is so painfully proprietary, fragile, expensive, and mandatory.
Ditch those worm hose clamps they cut into the hose and will leak .Use the Asian style or band clamps (like a t bolt) that were used in the 60s,sometimes called fuel injection hose clamps,-they wont cut or loosen. And use the butt connectors that have heat shrink, the good ones will have a sealant in it. Nothing worse then a volt drop from corrosion thru a corroded butt connector.
Your pump is installed too far away from the fuel tank. These pumps push fuel, they don’t pull / suck very well. Fuel cools the pump, no fuel = fuel pump burns up.
Great install those pumps are awesome that Carter pump design was designed many many years ago it's really good and just for fun watch Cold War Motors you will be entertained a lot of cool cars lot of junkers too it's fun have a great day
I have an '86 Toyota 4X4 truck and an '85 ford van. Both have fresh engines and transmissions but I have had endless fuel pump problems for several years. The Toyota pump actually had the arm collapse. I haven't been able to find a mechanical fuel pump for either that would last longer then a year. I finally installed this same pump in the Toyota in line with an oil pressure safety switch. It has been in there now for 3 years noisily doing it's job. After a year with that pump I installed one in the van and again it has functioned without a problem. I found these exact same pumps under a no name brand for so cheap I carry a spare in each vehicle. These pumps are noisy but worth it.
If I were you, given the location of your pump I would lose those push on connectors and use ring terminals and nuts. All it's going to take is you roll across a cardboard box and those wires will be disconnected.
Yeah I work at a shop and we have had problems with that same pump and a customer didn’t believe us
Its not always discoverable, but there is a minimum flow required in most external pumps - things don't live long dead headed for any extended period... plus, they are possible to vaporlock - no liquid means cooling ends [and the pump does too]. I have a 1971 vehicle I am about to drop the tank on to accomplish some basic things: replace sender with one fitted for a return line, replace existing steel line/add a return, and bless the general trunk area & rear frame rails with some paint, having access to all that. After that, I'm going to try something a little off the beaten path: keep my mechanical fuel pump on the engine and install an electric. The purpose of the electric will be carburetor bowl priming [or emergency service]. Mechanical will handle regular operation, keeping things relatively period correct. To do that, electric will parallel an inline check valve [spring loaded around 1 or 2 psi] - prevent recirculation around pump while running, but opened when mechanical suction demands. In the engine bay, another spring loaded check valve between supply and return [before mechanical] to act as a pop-off around 7 psi. Wild card? probably need an orifice to limit flow through that so pressure doesn't fall down completely as it pushes through mechanical pump. Why all that trouble? Because modern gas no longer has comparable additives to suppress evaporation as it once did: park for a week, and your fuel bowls are half empty/near dry.
FYI you can add a return to a tank easily with a bulkhead fitting. Basically drill a hole install sized fitting. It clamps through the hole then has NPT on top/bottom to connect fittings.
That exhast sounds soo good 🥴
I have installed a few of the Carter electric fuel pumps, and I all ways install them with the motor facing up, with the inlets and outlets down a 1/2 to 1 inch below the frame.
My hands are completely softer than Natasha's hands!
You go you strong and independent girl! ❤
Carter makes well built electric and mechanical pumps.
I have no experience with either of these pumps. Some need a pre and a post filter. Some overheat if they deadhead (without a return line) as they do not shut off at a given pressure.
If you have more failures, maybe look into those situations.
Also, I hope you have been in contact with Edelbrock as they need to know and look into why the high failure rate. It would help us all should they fix the issue.
I think you made a good choice with that pump. I put the same one (never checked the part number but it looks the same) in my truck long ago. (like in the 90s) TOTALLY trouble free so far and still noisily humming along which I've grown to appreciate just for the immediate knowledge of juice from the battery on turning the key to on position. I made custom mounting hardware as well. I was lucky. I just grabbed the first electric pump I found at the time. I hope you got at least a couple of those Edlelbrocks replaced under WARRANTY! (Call them up EVEN IF THE WARRANTY TIME HAS ELAPSED...you never know what might happen!)
Love the old school... and American muscle.
We used that same Carter pump on our '65 Mustang project. It's been a good one so far and I have one of those red Edelbrocks as a backup lol
You're right about those red pumps, had one crap out on me a few days ago. Just to get an engine running on a test stand, twenty minutes and the pump burnt up. Whereas that Carter style I've used in airboats for years with no problem, mounted two feet above the fuel tank.
I,m stealing you mounting idea! Best i,ve seen yet. I,m installing same style pump on my 77f100!
Thank you
Hey, nice fix. I would also have done a shrink wrap on the electric connections.
Love what you're doing on the channel. Keep them coming.
total digg. I'm working through mechanical fuel pump issues right now on my 78 bronco. Sounds great!
Hahaha what you just said about Edelbrock is true I just put one 3 day's ago drove it to the store and home now it took a shit can't believe that the price was 67.00 bucks a auto zone said there's no weren't on them
I was just in the market for one on a vehicle I trashed the mechanical pump on with contaminated fuel. Thanks!
that's a badass truck. keep it up!
I had problems with a Holley red pump on my classic car, not only do they only have a 90 day warranty from Summit it failed twice (years of use), Now I have a pump just like the carter from Autozone ($80 w/ lifetime Warranty) and it pumps 6psi for years now without any issues. Good choice in pumps keep up the good work.
What $80 pump did you like? Id like to maybe get one
@@jandyallday Look it up on Autozone - Spectra Premium Electric Fuel Pump
Part # A8109EP was $80 now $106 but has lifetime warranty. To avoid the buzzing sound install a rubber pad between the pump and the mounting bracket, or bracket and the car.
That truck sounds good!
Use to run the holley red electric pumps. Never had a problem with them in the past but ran run about 5 years but was warned thatbit wouldnt last. Sure as shit within 500-700 miles it quit. Was running that carter prior to the holley with no problem. Went back to the carter
This girl is too cute 🥺
Great job with the install
ANOTHER LIKE ANOTHER SUBSCRIBER, LOVE REAL MECHANIC STUFF!!
"take a what on you?" lol That's hysterical! I had that Carter on one of my Camaros. Loud as hell, hated hearing it. Being on a truck may not be as loud. It took that same dump you speak of! Was glad it did, replaced with mechanical pump. Much nicer ride!
Hard to find a decent inline pump that actually holds up, and doesn't sound like a nest of hornets.
Nice truck, what year?
Try a holley black…sounds like somebody’s making margaritas back there.
@@stevoschannel4127 😄 Try a Barry Grant pump, rackety bass terds. I seriously despise electric pumps now days. I had twin AC 5593957 12 VOLT ELECTRIC FUEL PUMPs on a '67 RS back in the early '80s, they sounded like a damn airplane. Didn't bother me one bit. I wouldn't sit in a street car with one of those now. lol
Comment: i like to use heat shrink crimp connectors, completely seals the wires from corrosion. Good vid!
Rumors of teflon tape failing with gas. If you wanna use something Black RTV is fuel resistant. I clarified recently with a pump manufacturer these low pressures no thread sealant is needed. Just good n tight
those edelbrock pumps are gravity fed. so if your outlet is on top those pumps wont work at all. i ran into that issue installing one.
"I have my safety glasses on because gas in the eyes isn't fun" Sounds like the voice of experience! 🤣🤣 Natasha, glad to see you making more content this past week. I've missed seeing what you're working on lately!
Can you use the Carter fuel pump along a mechanical fuel pump? I’ve been doing this setup for awhile and haven’t had any trouble with it but someone brought to my attention that there is no need for it
That thing sounds great!!
I have used the Carter and it worked perfectly for years with good pressure, although pretty noisy... until the car sat for an extended period of time and the fuel gummed it up, but that was my fault.
I’ve experienced the same problem with the edelbrock pump as well.
Mind boggling poorly made junk.
It was hard to tell if the Carter pump is noisy or NOT. Is it loud like the Elderbrock?
Not really telling you what to do but you need to tuck the wires up and insulate them better. You did a good job but not a weather proof one. I personally would soldier and heat shrink. Good luck with your project.
Might want toget rid of the loop on the pull side ...
FYI Loctite 565 is the only rated thread sealant I know of for gas/ethanol. Can that style pump be mounted upside down? (might help to get the actual pump lower) Also depending on the carb your running the fuel pressure might be too high now and flood the carb.
Every pump has a suction rating. For some, its maximum lift [as in self priming or diaphragm style]. I've used gerotor style pumps in a hydraulic system before - on top of the tank. Lift? About a foot at proper tank level, and hard piped. Other pumps [mainly centrifugal] need suction head - tank level is higher than pump suction port. Vane style? I have not taken one of these Carters apart, so not sure what type of design was chosen.
No, do not mount these pumps upside down. She has it the correct way. The electric motor is fuel cooled and lubricated like an efi pump. Upside down the motor can end up running in an air lock and eat itself way early
Well, she could've mounted the bracket upside-down. No need to flip the pump over.
I use Carter pumps on lawn tractors only problem is push on wire leads fall off give em a good squeese
Great video…. Just curious if that Carter pump is still doing good for you….. ?? Cause I’m willing to give one a try on my truck…?
Wish I would’ve seen this video and read these comments about two weeks ago. Had the Chinese version of the Edelbrock it went out, got the Edelbrock now it will probably go out.
Pump sounds quiet in the video. How quiet is it?
Did you run a fuse to the pump?
I called Edelbrock teck service.The teck was honest and told me they are junk, dont waste your money. He said they changed the source of supply. They use to be good he stated.He said their carburetors are still good.He doesn't know why they are still selling them when they are failing! Does not make sense to me!
Good job lady
If the Carter doesn't fail you aren't comparing apples to apples by mounting it lower in relationship to the tank than the Edelbrock(s), your friend was right electric pumps don't like to pull, " lift height". You could have flipped the Carter over putting the inlet and outlet even lower in relationship to the tank, it's sealed, doesn't care.
The reason that "mechanical" fuel pumps are mounted at the front of the car is that's where the mechanical drive is...on the engine ! It has nothing to do with push or pull. The fact is that all liquid pumps, no matter what style, are way better at pushing liquid (gas) than pulling. So, if you are going to mount an electric fuel pump, here's a few simple rules to doing it right. Mount it as close to the fuel supply as is practical. Mount it as low as possible. It's not a bad idea to use a larger supply hose to the pump if you can do it. Make sure that the voltage supplied to the pump is close to full system voltage, a little over 13 volts with the pump and the engine running. Obviously the ground has to be good. A filter before the pump is not a bad idea as long as it's not restrictive. A filter after the pump is mandatory. One last thing, try to keep the pump and lines away from the hot exhaust. If it's close, make a metal heat shield between the hot thing and the fuel lines and pump.
You need to zip tie those pump wires to the pump body. Believe me when I say they will work loose. I've never had any trouble at all with those Carter's. The only issue I have with them is their probably the noisiest pump on the planet!
Now, how about the starter?
The fittings that come with it are terrible. They are not tapered and bottom out in the pump ends. I bought two 1/4” X 5/16 hose barb fittings that were tapered and work fine .
Is the new pump working? I know this video is 6 month old as of my post. It might be body or chassis grounds causing issues. Like, if you're grounding to the frame, but the frame isn't grounded well... I had that problem running a pump at the back when I setup a FiTech on my Plymouth. Just curious cuz I'm about to go down that route again.... again...
Yes! Ive taken the truck on long road trips along with daily driving since this video and the pump is still working great.
Chevy steering wheel in a ford??
Don't buy the eldelbrock pumps micro! Can't get around the block before it quits. It still runs but no fuel come out and fuel filters flow when hoses are disconnected
Im buying my 3rd pump hate it, so did the other pump last longer and is it louder or the same?
@mrme2017 this Carter pump has worked great. I've taken this truck on 300+ mile trips since this video. I'd definitely recommend getting one. The loudness is about the same
I got one orderd thnxx
Hi where did you get the power source from?
Nice 👍
I've gone thru ,I don't know how many of those crappy pumps. No mo for me
I'm sorry, I got completely brainf***ed by the "Chevrolet" script on the wheel of your truck. I admittedly have not watched your channel, but having a '74 F350 I recognize a dentside lol Did you write that yourself? Props on the trollcraft. I totally get it - I am still looking for a set of cheap Tesla badges (that aren't you know, burned to a fine toxic vapor from a totally unrelated unstoppable fire) to put on my most obnoxious V8 vehicle...
And yes, I run Ford ignition solenoids in my GM crap too, because live unfused heavy gauge wires directly connected to the battery at all times and sneaking very close to headers, or even manifolds, is like, bad or something... And even my Fords use the same carburetor family, if not exact carb, as everything else in the fleet. Saem reason all the tractors are Ford Ns. Different tools for different jobs, but standardize everything you possibly can for maintenance reasons. This is the biggest reason modern vehicles have become a complete non-starter for me, as everything is so painfully proprietary, fragile, expensive, and mandatory.
Those little red or black pumps with the built in filter are crap and dangerous. The outlet is just a press fit with an O ring !
Ditch those worm hose clamps they cut into the hose and will leak .Use the Asian style or band clamps (like a t bolt) that were used in the 60s,sometimes called fuel injection hose clamps,-they wont cut or loosen. And use the butt connectors that have heat shrink, the good ones will have a sealant in it. Nothing worse then a volt drop from corrosion thru a corroded butt connector.
Wrong
@@captmack007 Says the key board mechanic
Ahhh shooooot.... you shoulda put some heat shrink on those connectors.
Get some decent electrical tape on it for the interim. Should be fine.
Those contacts are a bad design. Apparently you can thread the shafts with a 12/24 die and put a nut on there
Shouldnt have the fuel lines so long and twisted. slows down the fuel travel
Holy cow
Why do you have an electric pump on a classic?
those edelbrock ones and i think holly has their name on an identical looking pump are just junk; never heard good things about them
Your pump is installed too far away from the fuel tank.
These pumps push fuel, they don’t pull / suck very well.
Fuel cools the pump, no fuel = fuel pump burns up.
Edelbroken….
Sounds like a diesel
No, sounds like an old pushrod engine that has a cam. There is a difference.
Sounds like you know nothing about cars.
Great install those pumps are awesome that Carter pump design was designed many many years ago it's really good and just for fun watch Cold War Motors you will be entertained a lot of cool cars lot of junkers too it's fun have a great day