GREAT VIDEO! Thank you Larry for sharing this valuable information. I got my '67 Monza on the road this summer after it sat for 22 years. I used a knockoff Facet pump (~$25) and a knockoff impact switch (~$10 now on Amazon). So far so good for a hobby car but you're right, name brands are best. The fuel pump made 3-4 PSI so no pressure regulator was needed.
Update of Clark's mechanical Corvair fuel pump- we had thought the reproduction fuel pump would have been in stock by the time I posted this video, and indicted that at about the 10.00 minute mark, but checking on 10/2/23, it is still on back order, so an electric is still the way to go.
Absolutely great video! Wish I had seen this before going thru 4 fuel pumps in the last year on my '81 CJ5 258. 2 were the Edlebrock micropumps- garbage! 1 lasted 5 months, the 2nd only 20 minutes! Edlebrocks FIRST response was "don't forget, they come with a warranty". Not a single question as to how I installed them, (exactly per directions), he knows they're junk! Looked at some reviews- half were 5 star, the OTHER HALF WERE ONE STAR! The 5 star reviews were mostly done right after install, I would love to know what their ratings were 6 months later! Btw, ALL currently available mechanical pumps for jeeps will blow the diaphragm, usually sooner rather than later, including the Rock Auto highest price pump. It's easy for a failure to allow gas into the crankcase when failed- no thanks! Final decision? Holley red, it'll be big, a bit noisy, but dammit I just need some gas to go to the engine, NO excuse for all these garbage parts sold today. I'll put a partial bash plate over the Holley, (it's a jeep!), and that should bet that.
I feel your pain, quality control is an issue on many automotive parts these days. I have had very good service from the Facet pumps I've installed, the large cylindrical solenoid pump would have been my recommendation for your CJ, you've got a tall enough frame that mounting should be no issue. Those pumps are assembled at their plant in New York, and each one is tested before shipping. That said, I've got a Carter P60430 gerotor pump on my.84 Eagle,( same engine as your CJ) that on has been on there at least 11 years now...but I will note that one is old enough to be a USA made pump, the current version is made in China.
the video was aimed primarily for Corvair applications, though obviously much of the information is applicable to any carbureted vehicle. the in tank sender/pump unit is however Corvair specific. a limiting factor for the carbureted applications is the size of the stock tank sending unit (as in a small hole for it to fit thru), and a lack of internal baffles in the tank, that would slosh fuel away from the pump during hard acceleration or cornering, especially when get down to 1/2 or less. Since i know you have a 65 El Camino from your other question, you might consider a new FI gas tank from Tanks inc. that is already set up to take an electric pump; they have a version to fit your application.
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Something I just recently added to my truck. Is a vapor soperator Fuel filter. Is fuel sends the fuel back to the gas tank it improves on hotstarts. Fix my vapor lock problem.
Hi Paul. yes, a bleed (return) port in the fuel filter placed near the carburetor keeps a higher flow of cooler fuel going through the line and engine mounted pump, reducing the chance of vapor lock, and will also bleed off line pressure as soon as the engine shuts off. this will help prevent carburetor hot soak, the "other" malady of carburated engines in hot weather.
Scott-from an installation standpoint, Ted's set up is easiest and quickest to install- change the sender, wire in in an inertia safety switch and you're done. I would also recommend eliminating the stock pump or convert it with one of the dummy by-pass plates to avoid fuel leakage which is so common with the stock pump.
@@wisefoolsgaragewithlarrycl709 great but can you use one of Clark’s new mechanical fuel pump in line for backup if electric fuel pump in tank fails, thks again
scott- only solenoid pumps without a anti drain back check valve will allow a mechanical pump to pull gas through the electric. the pump used in Ted's in tank unit are gerotor pumps which do not allow fuel flow through it without it running. also, as noted below, Clarks does not have their reproduction mechanical pumps currently available at this time; may be months away
Hi folks, any opinion for a silent electric fuel pump for my Camino 65. Engine is a 320 HP 350 Edelbrock crate Engine and I already installed a high output vane style Aeromotive pump which is to noisy when running under the bed. I also mounted a regulator because I wanted a return line due vapor lock. The pump itself is regulated to 7 psi. So, there was no need for a regulator but I wanted the return line and the option to run another pump with higer psi. Thanks for your thoughts.
since you seem to be satisfied with the performance of your pump, I'd concentrate on the mounting arrangement. first, it should be mounted to the actual frame, not the body. 2nd, use isolator bushings (these look like upper shock bushings but with a threaded stud at each end, one end to the frame, other end to the pump. there are both standard and heavy duty styles available, i'd go the for the HD type as your pump is than heavier most. those are available Pegasus Auto racing supplies. if it is still too noisy for you, i'd consider a heavy duty cylindrical Facet pump, lots of different pressure ranges up to 8 PSI available. same mounting suggestions as suggested above. you *might* need to run a pair of those, in parallel, to get the volume you need at top end, obviously your return line bleeds off some of the volume.
Excellent video, Larry (and Shelly)! Looks like I'm going to have to change the electric fuel pump on Lin's car- she's always complaining about how loud the pump is. Another question: At 1:09 in the video, you mention the "Revolution Electronics" fuel pump controller, and the need to run a wire up front to the tach. Is there any reason that the controller cannot be placed in the engine compartment? That would eliminate the need for another (extra) wire going up front.
Certainly the Revolution Electronics controller can be placed anywhere in the car, as can the inertia switch, but you still have to connect the output of the device to the electric pump, so you'll still need a wire between the two. The R.E. controller has a very long output lead that should make the span, even if they are at opposite ends of the car.
Can anything be done to muffle the sound? On the solenoid type, would a piece of radiator hose or foam pipe insulation work? Or would this cause the pump to overheat?
Yes, the sound can be reduced. First is a rubber isolator- like an upper shock absorber bushing but with a short stud out of both ends for the mounting the pump itself to the vehicle. These are available in both regular and heavy duty versions . A foam type tape could further reduce sound, it could be easily applied to the round 'can' style solenoid pumps. The fuel itself cools the pump, so heat build up from the tape shouldn't be a concern. Also, when mounting the pump, if you have a choice between a sheet metal piece and a more substantial crossrail or frame piece, go with the thicker piece to help avoid a drumming effect. Unfortunately, in some instances there's not a lot of options for location. Do remember that the solenoid types get substantially quieter once they get the carb(s) filled and reach operating pressure. I'll be covering pump mounting, wiring, and plumbing in part 2 of my fuel video. Coming soon!
your '46 would be a 6Volt , so the choices are much more limited than 12v applications. I would recommend the Carter P74021. It's a solenoid style so the stock mechanical pump can still pull fuel through the electric if you only want to run the electric for priming the carb. That pump can work on either positive or negative ground applications. And, Carter electric pumps have a 'lifetime' warranty (save your paperwork & box!), and they are available from many sellers.
on a late corvair one of the round solenoid types with NPT threads on the inlet/outlet or the facet 'cube' pumps are the best choice from a mounting standpoint. as for the round solenoid brand, i'd stick with a delphi, carter, or airtex as all 3 have a 'lifetime' warranty. i'll have an installation video out before long! d
Even though your video here is mainly targeted towards corvair and air cooled car enthusiasts, the fuels sold today must have changed again in the past 5 or so years because EVERYONE i know with a carburted car/truck has been struggling with vapor lock especially in the past couple of years. Many people i know have set ups that worked perfectly fine for over 20+ years with no changes to the set up that now vapor lock/boil the fuel everytime they get drove it getting ridiculous. I love the simplicity and user friendly nature of mechanical pumps but now because the gas boils too soon they pretty much dont work anymore and the only ones that seem to somewhat work are the factory ones with built in vapor returns(found mainly on 70s and 80s GM and Chrysler vehicles) and most people i know have went to an electric pump with a return. A big problem for your typically v8 style engine too is that the carb sits in the middle of the scorching hot engine and if the engine is warmed up is almost guaranteed to boil the fuel in the carb(even if using electric pump and return line) when the engine is shut off. My personal favorite pump to use in an intank replacement pump for a 90s gm tbi(can only make around 15psi dead headed) with a return style regulator because those pumps are very cheap, easy to find and very reliable.
Yes, as i pointed out at the beginning of the video, the change in the fuel blending (read as vapor point) leads to many frustrating moments with a carburetored engine. Your use of a TBI pump on a carb is probably overkill, but if it works for you that's great. I have a Facet cylindrical solenoid pump (shown in the video) on my 455 Olds with factory return line, and that works well for me without a regulator. Each installation has it's own requirements. Thanks for the input!
it's hard to tell *exactly* which pump Clarks is selling; the catalogue picture looks like an Airtex or Carter solenoid type pump, but the picture when you bring up the price page it shows a gerotor style, which makes sense as the description in the catalogue says "quietest pump". No mention of pressure range or warranty period. That said, I have not heard of any issues with what Clarks sells.
Hi did you use a fuel Pressure Regulator since it's carburetor? am doing a conversion vehicle run great after insulation only issue Exhaust Manifold get red hot
@@craig99154 as noted in the video, no need for pressure regulator if you choose an electric pump that has approximately the same pressure as your factory installed mechanical pump. that spec should be listed in the factory shop manual. I'd say your glowing exhaust manifold is more Ilkley an exhaust restriction such as a stuck closed heat riser valve or collapsed exhaust pipe rather than anything to do with the fuel pump.
The vane pumps supposed to mount on a low level because the fuel should go by gravity to the pump due to its push construction, right (in a perfect world). But I wonder how strong can a vane pump also suck the fuel. What about the inline pumps?
All electric pumps are recommended to be mounted as close to the fuel tank as possible; one pump manufacturer puts a number on it ("within 1 foot of tank outlet") but we know this isn't always possible. We have also seen videos of somebody's electric "conversion" with the pump mounted on the inner fender or firewall of the engine compartment (complete with many feet of dangling rubber hose), yet somehow it pumped fuel and the installer thought it was great. So, I suppose it varies by pump how much suction there is, I have seen both solenoid and gerotor types 'misused' this way, but they are not designed as 'lift' pumps. From a functional standpoint, you want the pump as close to the tank (where to cooler fuel is) as possible to be able to prevent vapor lock. Even an electric pump can't stop vapor if you place the pump where the fuel has *aleady* become vapor bubbles....
@@wisefoolsgaragewithlarrycl709 Thank you for your thoughts. I think I will keep this vane style pump. A complete new tank is too much for the moment. Another question dont you think it makes sense to unlock my pump that it can run on 14 psi? I bought the regulated version with 7 psi if you wont run a regulator but I do because I wanted a return line too. It stands out that it is a bit tricky to find the right pressure.
@@fuelbasti as you are running a carburetor i would think 7 PSI should be adequate. you may need higher *volume* to keep up with a large return line, but i think you'd overpower the carb floats when you get much over 7-8 psi. to keep the volume high enough you might need to run dual pumps in parallel, but that would give you consistent psi *and* high volume.
the only downside to leaving the mechanical pump plumbed into the system is the possibility of the diaphragm of the mechanical pump failing which would result in a gas leak- either externally onto the ground or internally into the crankcase. the addition of the electric pump itself won't cause the diaphragm to fail, but it does happen either from age or miles, compounded by diaphragm material that may not hold up well to modern fuel blends.
the answer is ... maybe. depends on whether you intend to run the electric pump only on an as needed basis, or have it run all the time. If on an as needed basis, only an electric pump that allows flow through will let the mechanical engine mounted pump pull gas through the electric when it's not running.. Most (but not all) solenoid pumps allow pull through ; gerotor and rotary vane do not. If you are going to run the electric all the time that will work, *however* if the mechanical pump diaphragm fails, it will usually begin to leak either externally or internally into the crankcase; either one a bad scenario. Eliminating the mechanical pump from the fuel flow would prevent that possibility.
Another excellent presentation. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
GREAT VIDEO! Thank you Larry for sharing this valuable information. I got my '67 Monza on the road this summer after it sat for 22 years. I used a knockoff Facet pump (~$25) and a knockoff impact switch (~$10 now on Amazon). So far so good for a hobby car but you're right, name brands are best. The fuel pump made 3-4 PSI so no pressure regulator was needed.
Glad it helped!
Well done Larry! Looking forward to more of your excellent videos! Kudos to Shelly too!
Excellent information. I like the inertia switch it’s what I use and easy to find a place to mount and you can test and reset it easily.
yes, easiest to install & wire, plus it's effective if there is an crash but engine still running.
Lots of great information. Thanks
I definitely got my car to drive on a daily basis, it's robust, easy to fix and improve.
Great job as always ..
Update of Clark's mechanical Corvair fuel pump- we had thought the reproduction fuel pump would have been in stock by the time I posted this video, and indicted that at about the 10.00 minute mark, but checking on 10/2/23, it is still on back order, so an electric is still the way to go.
4/24 UPDATE- Clarks is now thinking late summer 2024 before their new reproduction pump becomes available.
Absolutely great video! Wish I had seen this before going thru 4 fuel pumps in the last year on my '81 CJ5 258. 2 were the Edlebrock micropumps- garbage! 1 lasted 5 months, the 2nd only 20 minutes! Edlebrocks FIRST response was "don't forget, they come with a warranty". Not a single question as to how I installed them, (exactly per directions), he knows they're junk! Looked at some reviews- half were 5 star, the OTHER HALF WERE ONE STAR! The 5 star reviews were mostly done right after install, I would love to know what their ratings were 6 months later! Btw, ALL currently available mechanical pumps for jeeps will blow the diaphragm, usually sooner rather than later, including the Rock Auto highest price pump. It's easy for a failure to allow gas into the crankcase when failed- no thanks! Final decision? Holley red, it'll be big, a bit noisy, but dammit I just need some gas to go to the engine, NO excuse for all these garbage parts sold today. I'll put a partial bash plate over the Holley, (it's a jeep!), and that should bet that.
I feel your pain, quality control is an issue on many automotive parts these days. I have had very good service from the Facet pumps I've installed, the large cylindrical solenoid pump would have been my recommendation for your CJ, you've got a tall enough frame that mounting should be no issue. Those pumps are assembled at their plant in New York, and each one is tested before shipping. That said, I've got a Carter P60430 gerotor pump on my.84 Eagle,( same engine as your CJ) that on has been on there at least 11 years now...but I will note that one is old enough to be a USA made pump, the current version is made in China.
If I wanted to get rid of the mechanical fuel pump and go with a Carter electric fuel pump on a 6v, 216 cu. in. what would you suggest?
Is there a brand for this modified tank unit? Like this idea very much. Best video out there. Thanks!
the video was aimed primarily for Corvair applications, though obviously much of the information is applicable to any carbureted vehicle. the in tank sender/pump unit is however Corvair specific. a limiting factor for the carbureted applications is the size of the stock tank sending unit (as in a small hole for it to fit thru), and a lack of internal baffles in the tank, that would slosh fuel away from the pump during hard acceleration or cornering, especially when get down to 1/2 or less. Since i know you have a 65 El Camino from your other question, you might consider a new FI gas tank from Tanks inc. that is already set up to take an electric pump; they have a version to fit your application.
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Something I just recently added to my truck. Is a vapor soperator Fuel filter. Is fuel sends the fuel back to the gas tank it improves on hotstarts. Fix my vapor lock problem.
Hi Paul. yes, a bleed (return) port in the fuel filter placed near the carburetor keeps a higher flow of cooler fuel going through the line and engine mounted pump, reducing the chance of vapor lock, and will also bleed off line pressure as soon as the engine shuts off. this will help prevent carburetor hot soak, the "other" malady of carburated engines in hot weather.
Sir another great video, Do you recommend Ted browns in tank Vega setup in a 1965 Corvair with carbs, for everyday usage, thks
Scott-from an installation standpoint, Ted's set up is easiest and quickest to install- change the sender, wire in in an inertia safety switch and you're done. I would also recommend eliminating the stock pump or convert it with one of the dummy by-pass plates to avoid fuel leakage which is so common with the stock pump.
@@wisefoolsgaragewithlarrycl709 great but can you use one of Clark’s new mechanical fuel pump in line for backup if electric fuel pump in tank fails, thks again
Sir do you have carter oil pressure switch part number the taller one on your video, thks
scott- only solenoid pumps without a anti drain back check valve will allow a mechanical pump to pull gas through the electric. the pump used in Ted's in tank unit are gerotor pumps which do not allow fuel flow through it without it running. also, as noted below, Clarks does not have their reproduction mechanical pumps currently available at this time; may be months away
Oil pressure operated safety switch
Carter A-68301
@@scottmagyar
Hi folks, any opinion for a silent electric fuel pump for my Camino 65. Engine is a 320 HP 350 Edelbrock crate Engine and I already installed a high output vane style Aeromotive pump which is to noisy when running under the bed. I also mounted a regulator because I wanted a return line due vapor lock. The pump itself is regulated to 7 psi. So, there was no need for a regulator but I wanted the return line and the option to run another pump with higer psi. Thanks for your thoughts.
since you seem to be satisfied with the performance of your pump, I'd concentrate on the mounting arrangement. first, it should be mounted to the actual frame, not the body. 2nd, use isolator bushings (these look like upper shock bushings but with a threaded stud at each end, one end to the frame, other end to the pump. there are both standard and heavy duty styles available, i'd go the for the HD type as your pump is than heavier most. those are available Pegasus Auto racing supplies. if it is still too noisy for you, i'd consider a heavy duty cylindrical Facet pump, lots of different pressure ranges up to 8 PSI available. same mounting suggestions as suggested above. you *might* need to run a pair of those, in parallel, to get the volume you need at top end, obviously your return line bleeds off some of the volume.
Excellent video, Larry (and Shelly)! Looks like I'm going to have to change the electric fuel pump on Lin's car- she's always complaining about how loud the pump is. Another question: At 1:09 in the video, you mention the "Revolution Electronics" fuel pump controller, and the need to run a wire up front to the tach. Is there any reason that the controller cannot be placed in the engine compartment? That would eliminate the need for another (extra) wire going up front.
Certainly the Revolution Electronics controller can be placed anywhere in the car, as can the inertia switch, but you still have to connect the output of the device to the electric pump, so you'll still need a wire between the two. The R.E. controller has a very long output lead that should make the span, even if they are at opposite ends of the car.
Can anything be done to muffle the sound? On the solenoid type, would a piece of radiator hose or foam pipe insulation work? Or would this cause the pump to overheat?
Yes, the sound can be reduced. First is a rubber isolator- like an upper shock absorber bushing but with a short stud out of both ends for the mounting the pump itself to the vehicle. These are available in both regular and heavy duty versions . A foam type tape could further reduce sound, it could be easily applied to the round 'can' style solenoid pumps. The fuel itself cools the pump, so heat build up from the tape shouldn't be a concern. Also, when mounting the pump, if you have a choice between a sheet metal piece and a more substantial crossrail or frame piece, go with the thicker piece to help avoid a drumming effect. Unfortunately, in some instances there's not a lot of options for location. Do remember that the solenoid types get substantially quieter once they get the carb(s) filled and reach operating pressure. I'll be covering pump mounting, wiring, and plumbing in part 2 of my fuel video. Coming soon!
Thank you, I’m looking forward to that.
What kind of electric fuel pump would you recommend for a 1946 Chevy Truck 216 cu in.?
your '46 would be a 6Volt , so the choices are much more limited than 12v applications. I would recommend the Carter P74021. It's a solenoid style so the stock mechanical pump can still pull fuel through the electric if you only want to run the electric for priming the carb. That pump can work on either positive or negative ground applications. And, Carter electric pumps have a 'lifetime' warranty (save your paperwork & box!), and they are available from many sellers.
Got a 65 vert. What electric pump do you recommend I get installed?
on a late corvair one of the round solenoid types with NPT threads on the inlet/outlet or the facet 'cube' pumps are the best choice from a mounting standpoint. as for the round solenoid brand, i'd stick with a delphi, carter, or airtex as all 3 have a 'lifetime' warranty. i'll have an installation video out before long!
d
Even though your video here is mainly targeted towards corvair and air cooled car enthusiasts, the fuels sold today must have changed again in the past 5 or so years because EVERYONE i know with a carburted car/truck has been struggling with vapor lock especially in the past couple of years. Many people i know have set ups that worked perfectly fine for over 20+ years with no changes to the set up that now vapor lock/boil the fuel everytime they get drove it getting ridiculous. I love the simplicity and user friendly nature of mechanical pumps but now because the gas boils too soon they pretty much dont work anymore and the only ones that seem to somewhat work are the factory ones with built in vapor returns(found mainly on 70s and 80s GM and Chrysler vehicles) and most people i know have went to an electric pump with a return. A big problem for your typically v8 style engine too is that the carb sits in the middle of the scorching hot engine and if the engine is warmed up is almost guaranteed to boil the fuel in the carb(even if using electric pump and return line) when the engine is shut off. My personal favorite pump to use in an intank replacement pump for a 90s gm tbi(can only make around 15psi dead headed) with a return style regulator because those pumps are very cheap, easy to find and very reliable.
Yes, as i pointed out at the beginning of the video, the change in the fuel blending (read as vapor point) leads to many frustrating moments with a carburetored engine. Your use of a TBI pump on a carb is probably overkill, but if it works for you that's great. I have a Facet cylindrical solenoid pump (shown in the video) on my 455 Olds with factory return line, and that works well for me without a regulator. Each installation has it's own requirements. Thanks for the input!
What is your opinion of the electric pumps that Clark's sells??
it's hard to tell *exactly* which pump Clarks is selling; the catalogue picture looks like an Airtex or Carter solenoid type pump, but the picture when you bring up the price page it shows a gerotor style, which makes sense as the description in the catalogue says "quietest pump". No mention of pressure range or warranty period. That said, I have not heard of any issues with what Clarks sells.
Hi did you use a fuel Pressure Regulator since it's carburetor? am doing a conversion vehicle run great after insulation only issue Exhaust Manifold get red hot
@@craig99154 as noted in the video, no need for pressure regulator if you choose an electric pump that has approximately the same pressure as your factory installed mechanical pump. that spec should be listed in the factory shop manual. I'd say your glowing exhaust manifold is more Ilkley an exhaust restriction such as a stuck closed heat riser valve or collapsed exhaust pipe rather than anything to do with the fuel pump.
The vane pumps supposed to mount on a low level because the fuel should go by gravity to the pump due to its push construction, right (in a perfect world). But I wonder how strong can a vane pump also suck the fuel. What about the inline pumps?
All electric pumps are recommended to be mounted as close to the fuel tank as possible; one pump manufacturer puts a number on it ("within 1 foot of tank outlet") but we know this isn't always possible. We have also seen videos of somebody's electric "conversion" with the pump mounted on the inner fender or firewall of the engine compartment (complete with many feet of dangling rubber hose), yet somehow it pumped fuel and the installer thought it was great. So, I suppose it varies by pump how much suction there is, I have seen both solenoid and gerotor types 'misused' this way, but they are not designed as 'lift' pumps.
From a functional standpoint, you want the pump as close to the tank (where to cooler fuel is) as possible to be able to prevent vapor lock. Even an electric pump can't stop vapor if you place the pump where the fuel has *aleady* become vapor bubbles....
@@wisefoolsgaragewithlarrycl709 Thank you for your thoughts. I think I will keep this vane style pump. A complete new tank is too much for the moment. Another question dont you think it makes sense to unlock my pump that it can run on 14 psi? I bought the regulated version with 7 psi if you wont run a regulator but I do because I wanted a return line too. It stands out that it is a bit tricky to find the right pressure.
@@fuelbasti as you are running a carburetor i would think 7 PSI should be adequate. you may need higher *volume* to keep up with a large return line, but i think you'd overpower the carb floats when you get much over 7-8 psi. to keep the volume high enough you might need to run dual pumps in parallel, but that would give you consistent psi *and* high volume.
Any benefit with running an electric pump with a mechanical pump? I bought a 66 mustangs and it has both an electric and mechanical.
the only downside to leaving the mechanical pump plumbed into the system is the possibility of the diaphragm of the mechanical pump failing which would result in a gas leak- either externally onto the ground or internally into the crankcase. the addition of the electric pump itself won't cause the diaphragm to fail, but it does happen either from age or miles, compounded by diaphragm material that may not hold up well to modern fuel blends.
@@wisefoolsgaragewithlarrycl709 thank you.
I have a 1986 C10 Chevy pickup and it vapor locks. What PSI do I need for that truck 350 Auto 4-barrel carburetor Qjet
a Q J should be pretty happy with 6 PSI, certainly no more than 7. I'd go for a pump in the 5-7 range. that's what I have in my 66 Toro.
Can you put a electric pump on with the mechanic Al pump
the answer is ... maybe. depends on whether you intend to run the electric pump only on an as needed basis, or have it run all the time. If on an as needed basis, only an electric pump that allows flow through will let the mechanical engine mounted pump pull gas through the electric when it's not running.. Most (but not all) solenoid pumps allow pull through ; gerotor and rotary vane do not. If you are going to run the electric all the time that will work, *however* if the mechanical pump diaphragm fails, it will usually begin to leak either externally or internally into the crankcase; either one a bad scenario. Eliminating the mechanical pump from the fuel flow would prevent that possibility.
Where is part 2?
Haven't gotten around to that yet...it will happen