Getting Jiggy with Gensets!! Cleaning hidden , pee covered rails!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 11 січ 2022
- The Rat visitor has left the tracks covered in pee and poo! SO it's time for the old "ROCO" track cleaning car to come out and wipe the rails clean in all the hidden areas I can't get to! It's also a good time to film the hidden tracks and see if anything needs attention , and to see just how much crap he left behind!!
SO jump onboard the MOW train as we roll along the "Dark side" of the Birdwood Sub".
Here are some time stamps of the ride :
Cleaning Loop behind grain facility 04:00
The "Aztec" cleaning car ?? 06:00
The Tarragindi Cutoff. 12:45
Reverse Loop at Helix 15:30
Bridge 21:30
Climbing the Helix 23:15
The top Tunnels 26:00 - Навчання та стиль
Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.👍
Thanks again for watching!
GRegg .
Cracking onboard footage Gregg well shot mate.........top marks!👀🎥👌😀
Thanks Paul ! Would be even better if there was more scenery..LOL
Cheers Gregg.
Very nice cab ride video. The “rat” boulders were a little much in the tunnels, but obviously Mr. Ratt found the sections of the tunnels that you cannot get to easily. Another fun video Gregg. Cheers!
Thanks Bob! Yes the camera revealed a little too much info..LOL Though it is a very good tool to inspect the right of way in hidden sections.
Cheers, Gregg .
I'm have been converted to inox by your recommendation. I do love your videos keep up the good work. Cheers Charlie, a pommie but we are not all perfect
Hi Charlie! i'm glad you like the INOX and get good results! Thanks for watching and I appreciate your support!
Cheers Gregg.
I remember when you got the Gen sets, you were like a kid in a candy store....hope you get the Rat Piss problem solved. I love the INOX, My Layout can sit and when I start it up and my trains run great. I have a Aztex car in N scale, it's about 25yr's old. Bob
Hi Bob! Yes it was pretty cool to get them both from your friends Hobby store , and they will continue to switch cars on the new layout! Glad the Inox is working well for you and also a belated Happy Birthday Sir🙂.
Cheers Gregg.
I wish I could have picked a BNSF genset before they sold out! biggest modeler regret! great video!
I was very lucky to get this pair ...from Tehachapi as well! They have been all across the US in my bags on many Amtrak trains!
Cheers Gregg.
Great video, you have my like and sub. Looking forward to more great footage. Greetings from Zimbabwe:)
Hello and thank you for the Sub" ! . I'm glad you enjoy the videos and I appreciate the support! More of the Birdwood Sub coming up soon.
Cheers , Gregg.
Congrats on defeating your "dirty rat" Gregg, and happy new year!
Thanks Ian! GOing up to check it out today!
Cheers Gregg.
Great video, Gregg. Really enjoyed the onboard segments to give an insight to the nether regions of your layout. Cheers :)
Thanks Brett! Nice to hear from you and I trust all is well.
CHeers Gregg.
The on board shots are great! Out of reach areas can be a challenge. I have a mouse problem too, but my cats take care of them before they get to the layout. Good luck with replacing your wheelsets on the Roco car. That was a peeve I had when replacing plastic wheelsets with metal, or fitting finer scale wheelsets. Most of the ads for wheelsets did not say how long the axles were! With different manufacturers, there are differences in bogie (truck) designs, whether fitted with Delrin bearing inserts, or not etc. There are at least three axle lengths: 23.5, 25 or 26mm. Might be other axle lengths I don't know about. Need to know the axle length in the ads to be sure if the wheelsets will fit correctly with a slight amount of freeplay.
Thank you ! I have replaced axles on many cars, with fine scale wheelsets, but as you say the length is a problem! One maker had a great selection of wheelsets of different lengths, but it is hard to find them now?
I have lots of wheels of different makes , so hopefully some will fit?
Cheers Gregg.
What I like about your layout is especially the speed that you run your trains. A lot more prototypical. Most of the videos that I watch they stat and stop with jerk and when the hook up to a train they smash into the cars. I do not now how the don’t brake couples. Your content is also very good and appreciate it. Thanks from Bob in Canad
Thanks very much Robert! I am pretty fussy on how I run trains, and with todays locos , it's not too hard to get them running smoothly. I actually stopped going to train shows , as I couldn't stand the speed at which most trains were running. Thanks for the kind words and I appreciate the support.
Cheers to you in beautiful CAnada.
Gregg.
A few unrelated things Gregg....
I am at the stage of track, tortoise and wiring and thought I'd pass on a few things that might be useful to you sometime.
Tortoises: I can't get under my layout so I have to do everything from top or front. I got a metal tortoise template and have found it very useful. After drilling the hole for the throw, you put the jig on top and drill the holes down. This means mounting tortoises before the turnout. Works very well and I am getting accurate results.
Wiring: I've found a UA-cam channel called rcgrabbag who uses Wago connectors and ScotchLok 562 connectors. I've been trying them and found they work really well. I've had to avoid buying cheap knockoff imitations as they simply don't work as well. Recommend you look at his vids from the last year.
In my opinion, it's worth looking at new products as sometimes you can find things that significantly help construction. You get a chance soon!
Finally - the multitool. Years and years ago you were using a corded AEG multitool and warned against cheap knockoffs. Well, I shoud have listened. I got something from Bunnings which broke the attachment within 30 minutes trying to cut some plastic. Looked the other day and the multitool world now seems to have gone cordless. You can pay $350 for a skin - ie no charger, batteries or accessories. However, you can still buy the original AEG corded version for half the price that comes with the accessories. Guess what I bought with my Christmas Gift Cards?
Keep up the good work. If nothing else, you have changeed the hobby for the better armed only with a rag and a can of Inox.
Hi Steve , Thank you for the kind words , and I do hope I have help a few people , especially with track cleaning! The templates are great , but I can get to mine so I use them from under , but I do see your idea would make things easier! As for wiring, I do it for a living, so soldering is ok for me and I deal with WAGO terminals on real signals, and hate them..LOL You always think you;re going to break the terminal when removing wires...at least in the larger ones...but I do see the ease of use from them and suitcase connectors.
My Multi tool is actually a "Fein" , German and the orignal , but AEG is good too , although now made in China! Battery tools are a rip off in my opinion , the drills are great of course , but the quality of a lot of the other tools are basic toys, so I'm glad you saw the light , and got something decent!
Thanks for your feedback and support.
Cheers Gregg.
As an ex-Telstra technician, in the good old days, etc, we were taught how to solder. In their opinion you had to make a mechanical secure connection before soldering. As a result I managed to acquire a massive 100 pin terminal block which I used decades ago when I made my N Scale Fleischman layout. In those days, of course, it was DC block switches from massively dense control panels.
Fast forward a few decades. I had stopped modelling to raise a family and started getting back into it a few years ago when the kids had left home.
Imagine my surprise when I learned the world had moved on quite a lot with soldering and making connections. Instead of soldering, the 'go' was to 'punch' in wires into krone blocks. My point is that best practice moves on and our decades old experience can need a bit of an update.
I was all ready to do much the same as you had with stripping back 4.5mm^2 wire and soldering drop wires but started looking at a few UA-cam vids where people were crimping and using IDC everywhere. I would still be happiest with soldered connections given my background, but I felt I had to at least try new things. That's why I recommended rcgrabbag's vids. He was using so many new things that I just went to eBay and bought at least 4 of the products he was using.
Suffice to say I was delighted with the results. Wago connectors have 2 big advantages - they are quick disconnect and they join dissimilar wires together. They are perfect for track drop wires. Sorry you have a hatred of them!
I am not trying to imply these methods are superior. In the end they all work just as well and the older ones are way cheaper. I just felt it was worth sharing these ideas with you, After all, we can all learn new things even if we don't use them.
G'Day Gregg.
One name for you matey, been trying these myself, Lux Modellbau.
They have both cleaning and vacuum cars plus an inline inbuilt wheelset cleaner for all your rooling stock as you run trains.
Thank you ! I will check them out!
Gregg :-)
Cheers mate
And to you Sir! Thanks for watching!
Gregg.
Great video, I am still impressed with both the benchwork and trackwork. Can't wait to see the next layout. I was waiting for a Brut 33 bottle on one of the trains. I am sure it could clean any track, or more like eat the track. LOL. Hope it's starting to cool down, it's freezing up here in Nebraska. Sad to see the layout coming to it's final days, but I know the new one will be better. Will the new layout be easier to clean? Again, great video, Cheers from Terry in snowy Nebraska.
Thanks Terry! I'm sure the old Brutt 33 could clean anything..LOL I'm looking forward to the new layout , as it will fix a few bug bears I have with this one! It will still have a bit of hidden track , but will be better designed for access! Still very hot down here mate!
CHeers Gregg.
SWteel wool works good to block holes - don't think they will chew through it - tried foan with no luck. Thx for all your work & videos.
I have mice. Thanks for this suggestion.
@@avlisk I actually only had mice too - just a good idea FYI.
I think I've heard that before JB ? Good idea and I will pick some up!
Thanks, Gregg.
Another fantastic video, Gregg! Thank you for your time, effort, and skills! It's always nice to see layout vids, and particularly from a car-mounted camera. Instructive as well as entertaining!
You commented about the Aztec track cleaner, and I was thinking about that. It seems you have identified the scrubbing action as the main benefit, and I agree. But, if you think about it, doesn't your present yellow boxcar do the same thing, in effect? The functional difference is that the Aztec spreads the grime over a wider area of an angular roller circumference, but if it's scrubbing track, sooner or later it gets loaded up. The pad under your boxcar may just get loaded sooner. That got me thinking. I know, dangerous territory. Rather unknown to me...... I use a CMX car. Has a similar pad to your boxcar. Advantage of it is the tank of cleaning fluid that can replenish the pad every so often. What about squirting some Inox or CRC-256 into the tank and set the drip to a very low rate? I was considering that might perform the same scrubbing function to remove "crud" from the rails and also leave it with a DCC friendly electrical surface. With the design of the pad holder the car can easily be backed into sidings without the pad coming off. I've also found replacement cleaning cloth material at the sewing supply store: much more material at a much lower price. Same stuff. More durable than a Handy-Wipe.
Cheers from The Colonies! Say HI to Sir Stan for me.
HI Kevin, thanks for watching and the kind words! The roller on the Aztec has the advantage that it rolls across turnouts and won't get caught on check rails or other snags. The CMX are good though and many people do use Inox or CRC i them!
I'll pas on your regards to Stan!
Cheers Gregg
Hi Gregg, hope all is successful in keeping the vermin out. I use 36" curves on my 2 helixes also. have much less problem with derailments with pesky passenger cars due to their length and coupler mountings. Have the same issue as you with temperature difference here in the Blue Mountains. I decided to solder only every second flex track length, and leave a 1.5mm gap in the unsoldered joints. So far this has been working well. In summer, the gaps close up to close to 1/2 mm, winter out to around 1.5mm. As every rail is soldered to the main wiring harness, I allowed bigger holes in the baseboard to cater for the movement. I have used the same technique throughout the layout after initially getting rail kinks show up in a couple of my yard tracks.
HI John, the 1m radius is a big improvement over 750mm , just that bit nicer! I have a policy where all curved joints are soldered, which made it a issue on the Helix, but the screws work great! Elsewhere , I have gaps at the start and end of each curve and at every straight joint , and this seems to work well.
See how it goes down in Stirling!!
CHeers Gregg.
What you said about track expansion and contraction, In the loft my track has 4 mm gaps between the joins in the winter and are closed in the summer. Per approx every 2 to 3 ft of track
I have 2 Dapol cleaners and I use both for vacuum cleaning, I also have 2 CMX Brass track cleaners which I use Inox in and I swear by them. Expensive but brilliant.
I think I will get a Dapol car for the new layout , as the vacuum feature is very handy.
Hoddy Gregg and Happy New Year to you sir! Went out and got the CRC as you suggested, and it works great. All so took my Genset out for a spin, #1255 found out it's noisy little bugger so we'll be cracking it open to investigate. Might even get brave and through a decoder in it!
Cheers Scottie
And to you Scottie! Mine are very quiet, but the gear casing wasn't clipped on properly on one of the trucks and would get stuck on turnouts , once found it was a quick fix, Maybe a wire is rubbing on the drive shafts....they are very snug under the hood!
Gregg :-)
I wondering would you be able to do a How Too on that ?
As I'm sure most of us would be really interested on your take of the subject .
Thanks Gregg.
Happy New Year Greg I can get a hold to some
And to you Chris! Hope this year is a little better than the last?
Thanks for watching.
Gregg.
Very good video as always.
Although I do have some questions…
Are there any possibilities of you acquiring any Scaletrains and Rapido locos and rolling stock since they are both including some BNSF liveries in addition to the high quality dead on accurate detail as well as the usual ESU Loksound decoders?
I was wondering if your layout accept visitors and visiting locos and rolling stock from other railroads such as the UP and Amtrak?
If yes, will it be able to accommodate a UP Big Boy and a DDA40X Centennial at largest even though your layout is solely BNSF?
What would be the loco and rolling stock wheel and coupler requirements for operating on the layout?
By the way, your Kadee coupler video has certainly been helpful in assisting me with being able to only use Kadee couplers which are mandatory at my club.
Gensets really are nice looking loco's. and the one you weathered, very nice job. Cleaning seems to be the job that is never done on the layout. Maybe that is why they say a layout is never done? lol
Thanks Sparky! They are cool looking models and I'm glad I got this pair, bu they are very quiet . They are rare now so I will be holding onto this pair! The second one will get weathered in the future.Track cleaning is part of the job, thats for sure!
Thanks for watching.
Gregg.
Have one aztek in N,great car,would not part with it!Also have Centerline cars,also awesome!Have an old Roco car with the cleaning pad and two track vacuum cars,one branded Atlas the other Tomix ,finally broke down and bought CMX tank track cleaner , still haven't tried the CMX
Luck you DAve! I will be checking Ebay to try and find one!
Gregg.
Hi Greg. In one of the shots of the track clean car you can see that the wheel isn't at 90 degrees to the axle, hence the wobble. Re the dapol vacuum car, I have one but I'm not impressed. It is only good for lite dust. It doesn't pick up anything with a little bit of weight in it like loose ballast or, I imagine, rat poo.
BTW I've been using Inox for just over a year and it's fantastic. Now days, what ever the problem is, even when it isn't electrical, everyone yells out to Inox it.
Cheers
PS love the trick with the folded paper.
Hi Doug, that old car has done some miles , and it needs a bit of TLC! I have many axels I have swapped out, so hopefully I can replace them before they just fall off! I'd like to try the Dapol car , just for kicks and see if you go really slow it may be ok?
That's great that you are getting good results from INOX and it is a very versatile product...just INox it..LOL. I like it!
Thanks for watching.
Gregg.
Love the axel wobble. Have both those cars you mention in video not sure i could find them though to bring up for a run around. Will give it a go though and let you know. On other note have you seen Auscision Harris cars coming this year with coreless motors. Wonders will never cease
Hi Bryce, If you have an Aztek car , I'd love to see and run it on the layout! That would be great sir! Kato had coreless motors in their Amtrak P42 a few years ago , the only issue was they used a worm drive on each truck , so the 2 power trucks would fight each other , especially at low speeds! Will people ever learn?
Let me know if you'd like to come up for a visit!
Cheers Gregg
@@FishplateFilms Bugger got my names mixed up, was going to get an aztec but same as you didn't get in time. Have got a centerline roller one might be worth a try and the dapol vacum one will still have a look in the storage shed for them.
@@bheales Thats ok Bryce, the centerline is worth a try , anad the Dapol would be interesting with the rat crap..LOL It will need a decoder though 🙂
I'm still patiently waiting for the wormgear rant video....hehe.
Anywho, glad you got the rat pee taken care of. Nasty little buggers. On a side note have you seen the Tsunami2 pitch shift for locos? It's pretty rad...so when you have two or more sound units running they all sound different...still same just a slight pitch off. I immediately thought of you when I saw it and heard it. Great vid as always and looking forward to the next one!
It will happen John! I use the EQ in my Tsunamis to tune each speaker, so I get slightly different sounds with that. The EQ really improves the sounds and I will do a video of it in the future.
Thanks for watching John.
GRegg.
@@FishplateFilms Sweet! Yeah, I saw the eq feature as well. I'm leaning more towards Tsunami sound now than the esu..my little one got a fantasy scheme Athearn Genesis ES4400AC from Santa and it sounds great!
Rodents, Shit, Piss and Perfume .. got to love this hobby .... :)
LOL....You'll get everything on this channel John!
Thanks for watching.
Gregg.
Hey, Gregg! Question: Why do "failed" real life locomotives seem to be such favorites with model train enthusiasts? Gensets, turbines, triplexes...of course every model works when you slap the same electric motor in them and turn on the juice! lol I would be using one of those cleaners, but I understand they aren't good for traction tires...but, not to worry. I don't use alcohol with water in it either. I use mineral spirits as my track is all metal so I have few worries about deteriorating plastic. Love you channel... keep it up... very informative and entertaining! Thanks. T4
LOL...yes it does seem to happen a lot, but my favourite loco is the SD40-2 , so at least I picked a winner there! Mineral spirits is a good choice if you have traction tyres !
I'm glad you like the channel and thank you for your support!
Cheers GRegg.
@@FishplateFilms Thank you, Gregg, for all the useful info... and the humor. Sometimes the model train community needs more levity to balance out the rivet counting and corporate marketing! lol T4
@@tinytowntrainstv I second that SIr!
Hi Gregg , question for you, will you be installing signals on the new layout and what method will you use to make them operational.
I've seen signals powered by small digital metal geared sevos off rc planes.
Hi Shaun , yes there will be signals on the new layout , like on this one, they are colour light only, no Semaphores! They will be driven from JMRI software using NCE signal driver cards. You can use Tortoise machines to drive Semaphores as well!
Cheers Gregg.
Gregg get a bigger cat to patrol for rats outside the layout room!
Sounds and feels like your in a real engine with the camera.
Thank you ! I'm glad you liked it !
Gregg;)
Just installed tsunami 2 decoder on a GE C44-9W. Do you have any receded CV changes from the factory settings.
Hi Aaron , go and watch my "CV Shortcuts" series, and then " Programming Tsunami decoders for realistic operations" and you will find all you need! The TSU 2's are great decoders , but need a few adjustments and some are a bit different to the original ones. Let me know how you go !
CHeers Gregg.
Hi Gregg, your track cleaning car looks very similar to my Triang/Hornby one. I ordered some felt pads for it a few years ago, but have used it only very rarely as I wasn't happy with it. I may try and use your idea with the cloth and Inox, especially in the hidden areas where I am having problems. A question for you - slightly off topic. - I don't know if your are familiar with Steam Era Models (SEM) wheel sets, but I have some of their kits that use their own wheelsets, however, the flanges appear to be to small for my code 100 track and they tend to derail in spots. Do you know if deeper flanged wheels are available elsewhere. SEM has rationalised their wheelset stocks and don't have deeper flanged anymore.
I have a number of SEM rollingstock items on my layout, and Broad Gauge Models too: the predecessor to Steam Era. The BGM wagons are approaching 40 years of age and still in use. My layout has a mixture of brands and code 100, 83, 70 and 55 track. Peco, Walthers, Atlas, Shinohara Micro Engineering. I have a mixture of wheels from the earliest BGM to later Steam Era, with their finer flanges. And a number of very fine scale Bachmann wheelsets, which are almost prototypical in dimensions: (thin treads and the flanges barely reach below the rail head). They all run fine and derailments are almost unknown.
You shouldn't have to replace your wheel sets with pizza cutter flanges. I would suggest a closer look at the derailment sites, and if it is all rollingstock that derails, or individual items. Does any of your rollingstock wobble on the track? A cause of derailments, and usually caused by one bent wheelset. I have replaced single wheelsets on some wagons. The bent wheelsets make a great load for the VR, QR open wagons. Check your wheelsets are clean. Particularly where the wheel tread curves into the flange. Any small spec of dirt will derail the wheelset. Use Inox on your track. Look at the derailment sites: any small specs of dirt: say between the rail and check rail on points. Check your fishplate joints are level and not sticking up.
another idea about the derailments is to check the weight of the cars. Very light cars are prone to being sensitive to any rail variations. The NMRA has recommended car weights. I a couple old Bachmann cars that were 1/3 the weight and were a constant problem. Added weight up to the standard, and the problem disappeared. A kitchen scale or cheap postal scale helps. Weights can be "official model railroad weights" that cost a bit, or whatever you may find. I've used old automobile wheel weights from the local tire shop, along with ball bearings, lead shot, steel shot, and anything else that fits and is heavy. Maybe this will help you.
Got the inox works great
Good to hear Terry! Thanks for the feedback!
Gregg !
Hi Gregg, I built my own "Aztec"style cleaner. Single wheel about 25mm in diameter in a steel frame carved from a solid chunk. It was made so that a Athern 40 foot boxcar body fitted neatly thereon. It works very well. My roller is square to the tracks and not in the frame with any offset. More by good luck than good management, as the unit is pushed around the track, there is a certain amount of drag on the roller (Chucks wipe around the roller) that causes the roller to slip bit on the rails and so cleans the rails nicely. I'd be happy to send you a pic if you have a tame email address!
The Dapol unit is good as a vacuum unit. Bloody useless at cleaning! I use it all the time and am always amazed at the rubbish it collects. I have a cheap decoder fitted and only run it at 9 to 10 volts CV 5 set to about 190. Dapol say to do that for dcc as anything over 12v can damage the motor!
Hi Peter, that does sound like the centerline car, which work but are also expensive. I''d love to get an Aztec car , just to see the engineering at work! I also intend to use the Dapol as a vacuum only , and what about putting in a EMD-567 Roots blown decoder with a big speaker and have it screaming !! You could set the max speed so you can't go over 10 volts. I think I've just talked myself into one..LOL
Thanks for watching.and your ideas.
Gregg.
@@FishplateFilms Actually, I was thinking I could send it over to you have a go with it if you are interested? It might be fun to get a second opinion!
My problem is not mice but Cockatiels, another invasive species from Australia
LOL...thats crazy!
Mice love to ride trains at night too...lol
They sure do Reggie!
Thanks for watching.
Gregg.
G'day Greg,
Does crc spray affect traction tyres?
Hi Ian, CRC and INOX do not harm traction tyres, but the film left behind makes the tracks a little slick , and when the tires get a coating on them , they become useless! Also locos with traction tires have most of the weight put on them , so the other axles are not much help! Tis i.s the only downside to INOX or CRC ;_(
Cheers Gregg
@@FishplateFilms Thanks Greg, I only have two locos with traction tyres and there are no inclines on the layout so I will see how we go
Amazing how much crap... uhhh... urine comes off the rails. U need that vacuum for the CRAP though 😱😎 I guess you could say the vacuum sucks 🙄 (Yes I am ashamed at such a bad joke) 😟😁
Yes ...actual "Crap" Colin! I think I will try one of the Dapol Cars and see how well they suck........or don't?
Also a bad joke!
Gregg 🙂
Rat poop .... poor mans rail/flange lubricator.
I still hold hope that somewhere somehow, you'll add some beltchers to your collection. Union Pacific's got a Heritage Division, why not the Birdwood Sub? Oh by the proverbial way, 4x speed actually looked very realistic from an on-board point of view. I see that you're Rat-chetting up the behind the scenes footage. 🤣😅🐀
Hi Adrian ,
The main reason there is no steam , is that I'm so fussy with performance , that most do not run well slow enough for me? I did have a guy bring a pair of Bachman Spectrum Mikado's to the layout a few years ago, and they ran beautifully! I l do like the 2-8-0 wheel arrangement , so if one did show, then that is what it would be! You never know what will happen on the new layout? I did go very slow with this as I wanted a good contact time with the rails.
Thanks or watching mate.
Gregg.
@@FishplateFilms I am sure where there's a will you'll find a permanent way! 2-8-0 seems a little under powered for the Sub, I would've thought an Articulated of some description would be more in keeping with the train lengths. But hey it's not my Layout and what floats my boat may sink yours. It would have to be American for sure. I understand the slow speed of your critical cleaning, but just as an observation... the spead up footage was infact in sync with what you would see if driving the real thing and thus my comment. I enjoy seeing your efforts, and as I now find myself under restrictions of a mandatory manner, I kind of wish I still had my QR toy trains to keep me occupied.
@@adriannettlefold9084 I meant 2-8-2 . I like the USRA Light Mikados from Bachman, so maybe one of them may grace the new layout??
You never know !!
@@FishplateFilms 🙂👌👍
ASRM
Hello Greg I found a real cleaner it's by Centerline products and it's 80 bucks U.S let me know
I know the CL cleaners Chris, but I'd love to get an Aztec one , as I like the engineering behind it! The CL one will be my next choice.
Gregg :-)
Why did you persist in using the dirty crappy cleaning wipe? When you could have put that in the washing machine and use fresh pieces.
I would not recommend putting dirt onto dirt, its just mixing it all up. See I'm having a rant now.
It wasn't dirty when I started Sam! These are shop cloths and hold a lot of dirt and still work well!
Gregg ;_)
@@FishplateFilms Oh I see, I thought it was a special cleaning wipe that you were using, On my CMX cleaners, they came with a special cleaning material which looks like what you were using. Which is washable. I keep changing the material until it no longer collects dirt, then I know the track is clean.
Maybe you should move…………..
LOL . I think I will!